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zumzum5150
2003.11.25, 06:57 PM
hi

I am new to the hobbie and would like to pick up the Pro-z pocket knife. it's about time, I change the blue skeletion chassis to carbon . Has anyone gotten a chance to race this new chassis and will it make a difference in the handling department? One of my biggest concerns is durability, can this chassis take a beating and keep going like the stock ones. Your opionions would be most appreciated.

isk8blind
2003.11.25, 07:46 PM
www.pro-z.com

Digisane
2003.11.27, 07:31 AM
Originally posted by zumzum5150
hi
One of my biggest concerns is durability, can this chassis take a beating and keep going like the stock ones. Your opionions would be most appreciated.


The chassis itself can take a beating, but the solder connections on the board itself couldn't. If you do get the Pro-Z i'd suggest you change every single wire to more durable ones from the servo to the board. Even then, you'd probably have to resolder every now and then, especially the battery pack. It's fun doing it now and then, but if something breaks in the middle of a competition..... uh... make sure you got a spare car..

Basically, the Pro-Z is like a 'works' racing car. That means it's built from the ground up as a racing car, and meant to be stripped down and rebuilt again after every few races. Reliability therefore would not be as good as the 'stock' ones, but it definitely improves everything else from stock.

zumzum5150
2003.11.27, 06:26 PM
Digisane,

Thanks for replying back. Well, I guss I'm just gonna have to work on my soldering skills when I do pick one up. Is $50 a fair price for version 4 (CF) since version 5 is already available? I've had the version 4 on hold at the local RC store since i posted the thread. Should I go with the 4 or the 5? Sweet paint job on the NSX, rims were a nice touch. I just purchased the 2002 Mugen NSX and it's awesome, especially with the F-40 rims.


BTW: I'll be picking up a Mr-02 as a back up and for the street.

Happy Holdidays to y'all Z racers...

Digisane
2003.11.28, 12:33 AM
Originally posted by zumzum5150

Thanks for replying back. Well, I guss I'm just gonna have to work on my soldering skills when I do pick one up. Is $50 a fair price for version 4 (CF) since version 5 is already available? I've had the version 4 on hold at the local RC store since i posted the thread. Should I go with the 4 or the 5?

It's up to you to decide, I think the pocket knife has more adjustable settings than the v4. I'd get the v5 if I were you.

I forgot to add that I drive the car like there's no tomorrow, so the Pro-z gets a few solders knocked out every now and then. Perhaps with good wires, soldering and a skillfull driver, they would last as long as the car itself.

Note that while I drive like there's no tomorrow, yet I havent broken any servo gears or any important parts except for solder connections.

Sweet paint job on the NSX, rims were a nice touch.

Thanks! You know, I didn't really spend too much time on painting.. the painting took only about 2 hours and another to dry in the sun. Then I immediately ran the car. :p

I was surprised at the results of the paint.

zumzum5150
2003.11.30, 12:54 PM
Digisane

i opted to go with the V5, hopefully it shouldn't take to long to arrive. Since I'll be soldering my own battery packs any suggestion on the brand I should use for this type of chassis. I've been using Energizers and GP's.

thnx :o)

Digisane
2003.12.01, 12:42 AM
I use Energizers. They should be no problem at all.

When making the connectors for the battery pack and the board, be sure to use a connector that can withstand a lot of heat for charging/discharging or even normal usage. Fast charge only when neccessary, because it causes alot of heat stress on them.

My connectors melted once and burned up the wires on the batt pack.

El Tigre
2003.12.02, 04:55 PM
I have 3 Pro-Z's, and the durability is the same if not more durable as the stock chassis. If you are serious about racing any Mini-Z, resolder the wires with new wire or fresh solder joints, because, Pro-Z or stock, it doesnt matter, the solder joints Kyosho produces suck. I race mine every week and rarely rebuild the car from the "ground up", and I rarely encounter problems. One tip about batt. packs, charge them before you solder them together as a pack, I had fewer false peak problems after doing this. Watch the antenna wire, do not let it touch the battery pack terminals in any way, you could be saying goodbye to your range when the signal filter gets blown. Version 5 is the chassis to get, it has more adjustability. Take your time building it, dont hurry and if you have any questions just post.

zumzum5150
2003.12.02, 07:22 PM
El Tigre

I'm actually waiting for the V5 to arrive sometime next week. hate payin by paypal. The shop that initially installed my fets did screw up the Signal filter, they worked on it the whole day and they still couldn't figure out what went wrong with the reception. They even made me buy another controller claiming that was the problem. Not knowing any better I went ahead and bought it.

I was at the point of putting the Z for sale AS IS when I decided to check out Tokyo Tekki, It was worth the 40 mile drive because Mike found the problem and fixed it for me. He even added another set of Fets and the car Rocks. Its now RACE worthy and most of all a keeper

Thank you for the tip on the battery packs. What would you suggest on the type of wire I should use. I know that stock wires look frail. I'll definately post more questions for you fellas

Thank goodness I didn't opt for the Xmod. Whew.... :p

BLiND
2003.12.03, 01:26 AM
FYI - battery packs for the Pro-z chassis will be in the mini-zracer.com (this site) shop this week!

Digisane
2003.12.04, 07:07 AM
Originally posted by El Tigre
I have 3 Pro-Z's, and the durability is the same if not more durable as the stock chassis. If you are serious about racing any Mini-Z, resolder the wires with new wire or fresh solder joints, because, Pro-Z or stock, it doesnt matter, the solder joints Kyosho produces suck. I race mine every week and rarely rebuild the car from the "ground up", and I rarely encounter problems.

Either the solders or wires I use suck, or I drive the thing way past its limits. Occasionally, simply moving the board would result in pulling the solder loose. I think it's the wires, because all the wires here suck (they are all very stiff types).

I have broken the solder joints in the battery pack at least twice now and the connection in the servo once.

The batteries shift when I crash, causing the solders to break after some time. It doesnt matter that the the batteries are securely tightened, they still move about a bit when u crash.

In any event, I still have to take apart almost the whole car to clean it up a bit every few months. So that's about the same as 'rebuilding the car' from ground up. While doing it, I check the solders connections along with everything else and fix as necessary..

But like El Tigre said, it should be quite rare. Since I had it I only had 3 broken solders over a previod of 9 months racing the car almost every week.

sidram
2003.12.07, 03:30 PM
Do not buy a pocket knife from the pro-z.com web site. I bought one 3 months aga and they will not return my emails and have never sent me the chassis I paid for. As far as I am concerned they are scammers. I paid for the chassis with paypal si I know they got the money.

zumzum5150
2003.12.07, 04:15 PM
Sidram,

That's really discouraging news! I didn't purchase from the Pro Z web site, but purchased from the Mini-Z racer shop, are they one and same? Thanks....

Free-Z
2003.12.07, 05:19 PM
Sidram,

The same thing happened to me 3 mo. ago! I purchased one from the site and never got it from them with no responses to my emails. So when I heard that Mini-Z Racer shop was going to carry them I sent them an email explaining my situation and they totally helped me get my ordered that I place from the Pro-Z website. The guys at the shop are great to deal with! I have no problems with any of my orders! Drop them an email with you PayPal receipt and I'm sure they can help you out.
Had my V5 for about a month now and I really love the chassis!
I guess at the time that we both ordered Pro-Z was right in the middle of the V5 production and our orders just fell through the cracks. I've got no grudge against them though, I know what it's like to go through production.

zumzum5150,

No need to worry, if you ordered from the shop you most certainly will get it! I'm sure you will be happy with your purchase the Pocketknife is a great product.

Here's a pic of mine
;)

zumzum5150
2003.12.07, 05:32 PM
Free-Z,

Whoo, what a relief...my payment went thru last week and I was kinda worried...hopefully, I'll be getting my shipment this week.

BTW, did you purchase the side springs for your set up? The car looks AWESOME!

sidram
2003.12.07, 09:53 PM
Free-Z

Thanks for the info. I will send the guys an email. Sad all I wanted was the chassis. I am glad you like yours and the pick looks great.

Free-Z
2003.12.07, 10:20 PM
zumzum5150,

Thanks for the compliment :D Yes, I did get the side spings and they really help the car handle through the turns a lot better without too much side to side roll. If you do get them follow this link to a page on Pro-Z's website on how to install them. No installation instructions come with any of the products: http://www.pro-z.com/side/side_spring_sus.html
One word of caution, make sure that you do glue the springs onto the micro nut. They do have a tendancy to fall off with hard driving or if the track is elevated off the ground and your car flies off theyll pop right off. Have fun with your new chassis! If you need any help with your chassis, let me know and I'll help you out the best I can ;)

Free-Z

Free-Z
2003.12.07, 10:26 PM
sidram,

Thanks for the compliment! I have total confidence that you will soon be getting your order from the shop when you explain your situation to them. As with zumzum5150, If you need any help with your chassis let me know :D

Good luck with your chassis!

Free-Z

sidram
2003.12.08, 09:10 AM
I am going to guess that the side springs are the same as a motec exo2 micro rs4 chassis. That system works pretty good.

I have already received an email about the pro-z.com order from the shop here. I am glad to see that there are very nice people around here.

I alos oreder a chassis form the store here so it looks like I might have two chassis. If I get both I will give one to the neighbor kid that got me into racing. It will make a great holiday gift for him.

Sidram

zumzum5150
2003.12.09, 01:23 PM
Thanks to all the replied to my post. The chassis arrived last night and can't wait to get this thing going. It was definately worth the wait. :D

acoresmix
2004.07.28, 07:00 PM
Finally after 2/5 moths I get my Pro-z V5. Can someone please help me with the batterie pack? Someone told me that the soldering make the batteries to explode, is this true? With charger do I use to charge the pack?

Thanks

THRC Dan
2004.07.28, 07:32 PM
Im curious as to what holds the batteries in place and keeps them from sliding out the sides...

I just received my V5 today too... Cant wait to get it going

El Tigre
2004.07.30, 09:52 AM
You need to solder the pack together, not hard if you have a good iron 40 Watt or more. Use a little flux or soldering paste and a chisel tip on the iron. Your iron should be hot enough to flow solder to the battery within a few seconds of touching it. If you hold the iron to the battery for a few minutes, the battery will vent, and all the media will expand and push out the top seam. Take your time, wait until the irons hot and tin the top and bottom of the battery and whatever you use to wire the pack together (wire, battery bars or copper braid). Dont let the open connections touch the chassis plates or else the pack will short and the battery will drain quickly. If you find you are not getting more than 9 or 10 minutes out of the fully charged battery, check your connections for shorts. You want to charge the pack on a charger that will charge receiver packs or a charger that allows you to change the charge amperage rate. Ideally the packs should be charged a 1 amp or less, at this rate it takes about 45 mins to an hour to charge a 6.0 v, Metal Hydride pack. When I'm racing I have charged at 1.5 amps, but this gets them hot, so keep a fan on them if you choose to do this. Batteries should be monitored while charging, dont plug them in and walk away for a few hours, not very safe. I have never seen a battery catch fire, but they do make a mess when they vent not to mention the stuff inside the battery is not good for the human body. The packs are held in by the top deck, it clamps down and holds the pack very securely. The battery slots on the chassis allow you to alter the battery placement, I like a little more weight to the front, I find I get less push when cornering. The back of the chassis has plenty of weight, but thats is up to you and your driving style. This chassis great and has plenty of adjustment and a lot of stuff available to make it handle like an 1/18th scale.

THRC Dan
2004.07.31, 12:09 AM
Thanks.... I just finished assembling my V5 and it is very nice... I will work on battery packs tomorrow...

The only issue I see so far is that I used a stock 01 rear pod... the diamond bar does not stick out the back far enough to give the stock pod "full travel" If you hold the car in your hand you can flex the pod down but if you set the car down and push on the top, there is no flex because the pod is flush against the top chassis plate. What is hitting is the two support ribs that run up and parrallel with the mounting screw holes. I will try to dremmel some of the material off to allow for some travel. But doing so will weaken the mount area.

I may opt for an aluminum pod but hate to add the weight... Plus I don't see any on the MZR site for sale... May have to go to hong kong for that...

Other than that, the car seems real solid, cant wait to run it...

El Tigre
2004.08.01, 03:17 AM
I dremelled mine and it works fine, I ran it like that for about six months, before I replaced it with aluminum eye candy. You can adjust ride height by tighten/loosening the two center screws, and the two screws on the left and right of the t-bar are for tweak. You can add a little left or right bias to the thrust of the axle. This helps compensate for the diff being on the right side of the axle or you can get a little more steering for those tight technical courses.