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View Full Version : How to make an XMod halfway decent?


GX9901
2004.09.29, 10:01 PM
I bought an XMod out of curiosity and so far I'm not impressed at all. Its controls are sluggish (at least compared to a Mini-Z or Iwaver), and there's NO turning radius. The XMod could not make it through any of the turns on my RCP Mini-96 track without hitting the side rail. In comparison, both my MR-02 and Iwaver clear those turns with ease, and seemingly with a motor at least 10 times more powerful. I wasn't expecting the XMod to be all that close to the Mini-Z but this is ridiculous. I even bought the stage 1 motor upgrade and it doesn't seem to do anything.
I would like to at least get the XMod to be able to complete some laps on my Mini-96 track. Would the AWD kit help? Or is it a lost cause to try and run it on a narrow RCP track?
Thanks for any input you may have.

TNB
2004.09.29, 10:07 PM
On the Mini-Tile, I thought the AWD kit made it worse. I ended up power breaking around the turns. There is supposed to a resistor fix for the stearing, but I've never tried it. However, you can probably learn more about it on the MZR sister site or the RS Xmod forum.

Twenty-Se7en
2004.09.30, 12:07 PM
check out the tinyrc.com forums. There are lots and lots of threads on how to improve the xmods turning radius. Unfortunatly I cannot tell you if they work or not because I gave up on my xmods pretty soon after I got it and now it just sits there ... not even like a shelf queen because the bodies aren't that detailed... :( So, like I said TINYRC.COM

arch2b
2004.09.30, 12:09 PM
a new comer to the washington gtg's brought his skyline xmod and actually ran it rather well on my 50cm track. he also mentioned bending in the ends of the tie bar. it definately was better than my son's rsx. he still got blown away when running with the z's though. just posting to show it can be done...

Twenty-Se7en
2004.09.30, 12:47 PM
a new comer to the washington gtg's brought his skyline xmod and actually ran it rather well on my 50cm track. he also mentioned bending in the ends of the tie bar. it definately was better than my son's rsx. he still got blown away when running with the z's though. just posting to show it can be done...

Mini-zs and Xmods wont be competitors until Radio Shack does something with the Xmods... maybe they will release an Xmods SE like the zipzaps but that doesn't look likely as they only just released the new bodies for the xmods. Like I mentioned there are numberous threads on modding the radius of steering for the xmods, but as I don't know if I mentioned they are nowhere near beginner mods and require some skill to pull off. I may do some in the future, if I do I will post it in the other rc's section.

GX9901
2004.09.30, 01:49 PM
check out the tinyrc.com forums. There are lots and lots of threads on how to improve the xmods turning radius. Unfortunatly I cannot tell you if they work or not because I gave up on my xmods pretty soon after I got it and now it just sits there ... not even like a shelf queen because the bodies aren't that detailed... :( So, like I said TINYRC.COM

Thanks for the reference. I'll check them out. That sorry turning radius and overall sluggishness on the XMod was kind of surprising to me. Maybe I was expecting near Mini-Z level of performance. I had seen a chart showing how an XMod stacks up to a Mini-Z (XMod site of course) and they looked pretty equal except the XMod costs a lot less. Well now I know they are not even remotely close to a Mini-Z (or Iwaver for that matter). Hopefully I can mod it somehow to actually be able to run on my RCP track.

byebye
2004.09.30, 02:06 PM
Thanks for the reference. I'll check them out. That sorry turning radius and overall sluggishness on the XMod was kind of surprising to me. Maybe I was expecting near Mini-Z level of performance. I had seen a chart showing how an XMod stacks up to a Mini-Z (XMod site of course) and they looked pretty equal except the XMod costs a lot less. Well now I know they are not even remotely close to a Mini-Z (or Iwaver for that matter). Hopefully I can mod it somehow to actually be able to run on my RCP track.
Can you link that chart for us? I had the same problems with my x-mods and just tossed them in the trash after I bought my z's. Too much hassle to work on. At the last GTG I tried to FET stack them with bad results. Too much work for little performance. Better off buying an iwaver.

Twenty-Se7en
2004.09.30, 02:58 PM
Can you link that chart for us? I had the same problems with my x-mods and just tossed them in the trash after I bought my z's. Too much hassle to work on. At the last GTG I tried to FET stack them with bad results. Too much work for little performance. Better off buying an iwaver.

You actually got around to trying to fet the xmods huh... have any more info on that, not that i'm going to do it to my xmods, even though that would be good practice, but i'm curious how it differs from the mini-z in terms of ability to do the mod

byebye
2004.09.30, 03:24 PM
You actually got around to trying to fet the xmods huh... have any more info on that, not that i'm going to do it to my xmods, even though that would be good practice, but i'm curious how it differs from the mini-z in terms of ability to do the mod
Well there wasn't anything in the way when we stacked them. It was when I put it back together that I realized the heatsink was in the way and had to be cut. After all that work it didn't wanna go. It just puttered until it built up speed then it was fast. Not sure if it was faster than stock. In reverse there was instant torque but once under load it puttered. Not sure if stacking on the stock killed it because we did a 4562 2x2 stack after we removed the stock FETs and it did the same thing. Don't know what I did wrong but it was way too much work. With the amount of time it took to do the x-mod I did all 4 of my mini-z's. FET stacking the Z's was a cinch especially since I just stacked onto the stock ones. Did you see the purple CLK video? If you did that was with an megatech high torque motor and a 2x2 4562 stack on top of the stock FETs and it was pretty fast.
I got my hopes up on the x-mod when we started the project but after all was said and done I left it in pieces because we couldn't get it to work. Oh well. I was hoping to have better results.

MattPaintballer
2004.09.30, 09:07 PM
Mini-zs and Xmods wont be competitors until Radio Shack does something with the Xmods... maybe they will release an Xmods SE like the zipzaps but that doesn't look likely as they only just released the new bodies for the xmods. Like I mentioned there are numberous threads on modding the radius of steering for the xmods, but as I don't know if I mentioned they are nowhere near beginner mods and require some skill to pull off. I may do some in the future, if I do I will post it in the other rc's section.

... I have a ZipZap SE and my friend has a ZipZap... He has 2 of the best motor, so he put one in his and the other just sits there... I brought my SE to his house and borrowed the spare motor, we raced a straightaway and he smoked me. If they released an Xmod SE it would probably have lights like the ZipZap SE, but it would probably be slower and run for a shorter time because of the lights...

Twenty-Se7en
2004.09.30, 10:31 PM
Well there wasn't anything in the way when we stacked them. It was when I put it back together that I realized the heatsink was in the way and had to be cut. After all that work it didn't wanna go. It just puttered until it built up speed then it was fast. Not sure if it was faster than stock. In reverse there was instant torque but once under load it puttered. Not sure if stacking on the stock killed it because we did a 4562 2x2 stack after we removed the stock FETs and it did the same thing. Don't know what I did wrong but it was way too much work. With the amount of time it took to do the x-mod I did all 4 of my mini-z's. FET stacking the Z's was a cinch especially since I just stacked onto the stock ones. Did you see the purple CLK video? If you did that was with an megatech high torque motor and a 2x2 4562 stack on top of the stock FETs and it was pretty fast.
I got my hopes up on the x-mod when we started the project but after all was said and done I left it in pieces because we couldn't get it to work. Oh well. I was hoping to have better results.

pitty you didn't see any results, that sucks

Twenty-Se7en
2004.09.30, 10:33 PM
... I have a ZipZap SE and my friend has a ZipZap... He has 2 of the best motor, so he put one in his and the other just sits there... I brought my SE to his house and borrowed the spare motor, we raced a straightaway and he smoked me. If they released an Xmod SE it would probably have lights like the ZipZap SE, but it would probably be slower and run for a shorter time because of the lights...

Yes, it is slower but that is in the straight line... if you race any kind of technical track then you'd get your ass smoked by an SE if you were in an origional.

pHREDD
2004.09.30, 10:55 PM
For practice I took my stock fets that I have been saving from my mini-z's and put a 4x2 stack of them on one of my xmods. I did remove my stock xmod fets. I thought the xmod was more easy to do a fet stack than the mini z :confused: . at least it seemed like i had more room to work on the pcb. THe chassie had to be modded for the stack to fit. It has a little more power with the new fet stack but I have only tested it with the stock motor. I also did the steering mod using the resistors. it will increase the turning radius to almost double what the stock steering will do. It does make it a little harder to drive with the steering mod because it turns tool quick.

I don plan on racing it but it was fun for practice :D

GX9901
2004.10.01, 12:58 PM
Can you link that chart for us? I had the same problems with my x-mods and just tossed them in the trash after I bought my z's. Too much hassle to work on. At the last GTG I tried to FET stack them with bad results. Too much work for little performance. Better off buying an iwaver.

Here's the link:

http://www.xmodworld.com/modules.php?name=FAQ&myfaq=yes&id_cat=1&categories=Info+about+the+XMods+racers

It's toward the bottom of the page.

Twenty-Se7en
2004.10.02, 11:02 AM
wow... they really made that table give some illusion of what an xmods is to a mini-z... it's sad that the xmods community tends to rely so much on competition with the mini-z because they are so far from eachother there is no way to compare them... sad, all they have is scale in common.

arch2b
2004.10.02, 11:04 AM
notice they sneak in the non bold text
There are a lot of differences but a lot of similarities as well.

Twenty-Se7en
2004.10.02, 12:07 PM
sneaky bastards :p lol

solartech
2004.10.03, 08:41 PM
Radio shack should upgrade the pcb board to fix the turnig radius. A simple swap of two resistors or adding 2 4.7k ohm resistors inline of the potntiometer will cure the problem. I fixed both of mine and it works great. Actualy my 2wd xmod turns in a tighter radius tham my mro2.The only good thing about the x-mods is that it lead me to the mini-z, which i now own a fleet of. The x mods are a good effort by radioshack, a bit of over kill and a little short on quality.

Ninja
2004.10.03, 09:56 PM
anybody ever thought about lifting an X-Mod as we have seen done my Easy to a Mini-Z? it would be good if it can be done easily b/c it has optional 4-wheel drive :D sounds like fun

solartech
2004.10.04, 07:36 AM
there is not enough power to spin larger overland size tires. Even with the smallest pinon gear set up i fred the pcb.

Twenty-Se7en
2004.10.04, 04:40 PM
turns tighter than a MR-02 huh? That's pretty sweet.

ChattavegasSE
2004.10.05, 06:48 PM
It does turn a lot tighter; but like pHREDD said; it's a lot harder to control. I did the resistor mod to my RSX and it made all the difference in the world. Then I blew up the PCB. :o I still havn't switched the resistors into my other RSX. I'm still debating if it's worth the trouble. I want to build this XMod up to handle a much higher top speed. I've got a Mini Z on the way that'll handle the tight, technical tracks. ;)


Anyway, stuff I've done to my XMods and my reviews:
AWD - very very slow; not worth it; don't do it - - - - I've read it's very beneficial if you're running a super modified motor (PN Racing S03/4, NML, etc.)
Metal bearings - a must; 'nuff said
Suspension kit - for the fronts; I wound a blue (hardest) spring around a stock spring and strut for very very stiff results and I run yellow (medium stiffness) in the rear. Definitly get the suspension kit
Tires - depends on the conditions; get the tire upgrade
Stage 2 motors - don't waste your time with the stage 1 set; stage 2 performs very well. Depending on race conditions really. Stock electronics won't really be able to optimize the blue motor (top speed, 11 tooth pinion). I run the yellow motor (10 tooth) for large open tracks and the red motor (9 tooth) for the RCP track.
Light kit - super cool at night, no real function - just something neat to have
Wheel upgrade - just looks cool; no function

As far as custom stuff goes, though:
I never run the front deck cover; just extra weight
I cut the battery case arms off the rear deck; so there's a little more room for wires n such
I took the Dremel to the insides of one beater RSX (the black one for you Chattanoogas :D ) - no side view mirrors; no side skirts; the entire underside is shaved smooth - so no screw points for the mirrors, side skirts, light kit, etc
-----this customized body weighs waaay less than the stock chunk of plastic
Resistor mod for the servo - took a while to do, but it was definitly worth it. The car turns (turned :mad: ) too quick to control at times. With practice, this could become a track competitor with the MZ's
6 cells - gotta do it. $0.99 at Radio Shack and 2 more AAA's will go from 24kmh to 37kmh. (Yes, I checked on a Tamiya speed checker - 4 cells w/9 tooth/red motor and pinion = 24, 6 cells w/10 tooth/yellow motor and pinion = 37)
Custom drive shaft mod: I used a small length of a splastic parts tree from a model kit as a drive shaft. I glued one end of it into the pinion gear. This mod saved a lot of weight; and performs well. Except after a while, the glue weakens; either from heat or vibration, or both; and falls out.

Twenty-Se7en
2004.10.05, 10:02 PM
Well... I've got a Red Supra sitting around that has been barely used... if I could get it to turn worth a damn I could let the kids play with it... it would be a great beater. I'm not looking to keep it as a shelf-queen.

ChattavegasSE
2004.10.07, 08:54 AM
Do the steering servo resistor mod. Makes all the difference in the world.

MattPaintballer
2004.10.10, 03:49 PM
Yes, it is slower but that is in the straight line... if you race any kind of technical track then you'd get your ass smoked by an SE if you were in an origional.
Either way my MicroSizers will smoke all my other 1:64's and ZipZaps (don't know what scale ZipZaps are... they claim t be 1:64 yet they are larger than my other 1:64's...)

As for XMods, it seems that some cosmetic items on them are very heavy. Take off every unneeded item and it might go faster...

Vagabond
2004.10.12, 04:11 AM
I've got the xmod too. Just as you said it, the electronic sucks. So i've mod it by throwing away the xmod PCB and installed the Novak XXL AM receiver, Novak Spy and a micro servo. But this you'll have to modify the xmod a bit to be able to use those electronic parts. And as the result, the handling is much much better, more powerful with the Novak Spy and it's a total changeover for the Xmod. Do check out the aftermarket CF chassis plates for the Xmod.

HammerZ
2005.02.27, 08:00 PM
Whoo, this is an old thread. But anyhow, I done the old school steering mod on mine. That is modding the steering bar by bending the ends forward a bit, Also a bit of toe in with it. for the rear a styrene piece to tie the rear swing arms together. I am still getting around that "funky camber" rear setup on these cars. One thing on the Mini Z racers that I like is the solid axel setup, seems better at planting the rear anyway. By keeping the tires flat to the ground. With the mods that I done so far on my Xmods, it is still unpredictable in a turn. The rear diff with the AWD kit, I can not call a real diff. A real diff you hold the gear and turn one of the rear tires the other one will move in the opposite direction. This Xmods "ball" diff will ether slip or stick, I wonder why they even put balls in it. And yes, I have tried adjusting it with no luck. I still have not done any electronic mods at this time. I have always seen two things in a car to take a corner,
1. how much the front can turn it.
2. how much the rear can take before sliding away.
A Mini Z can do both those better than an Xmods out of the box. With the right mods you can make an Xmods turn as fast as a Mini Z, but can the Xmods track as fast as a Mini Z? This is the big question here.

Boss302
2005.05.17, 05:25 PM
a new comer to the washington gtg's brought his skyline xmod and actually ran it rather well on my 50cm track. he also mentioned bending in the ends of the tie bar. it definately was better than my son's rsx. he still got blown away when running with the z's though. just posting to show it can be done...
Bending the tierods help so much, heres a pic of both my Xmods with bent tie rods, Well I tryed on the Suburu(Which is the one in the blue :rolleyes: ).The RSX has a very small turning radius now.

Also the RSX,04 Mustang, and NSX have better turning radius then most of the other cars. Why?:Because the wheelbase is shorter.

Xmods can compete if you get a carbon fiber driveshaft, its mostly because of the stock drive shaft that the Xmod is slow.Mainly because of friction and weight.Its like a long metal pole sticking out of your beavel gear. :confused:

GPM is now making parts for Xmods for those people who do not know.

color01
2005.05.17, 08:24 PM
if you can get past the funky rear camber stuff, the xmod is quite a cool 'weekend driver'; even with RWD, add a couple mods and you can pull proper drifts, especially after tying the rear arms together.

while i haven't driven my new iwaver yet, i have no doubts that the live axle setup will keep the wheels on the ground better. but i wonder if these live axles suffer from the same gyroscopic effect that real-sized live axles suffer.

and going back to the first post in this thread... a nelly would be a good investment for the xmod... $20 and a lot of performance gain.


hammerz: IMO there's more factor in your handling checklist: how easy the rear end is to control after it slips away :)

Mzfreak
2005.05.17, 08:50 PM
get the tight turns kit off of atomicmods and some other sites i forgot
it helps you get a better turing radius

nirvahnah
2007.07.29, 09:36 PM
ok first off im more off an airplane and heli kind of person but i wanted to check out the rc car scene and so i spent $50 in '05 for the 350z gen1 xmod. i loved it, it went fast it cornered well and all the friggin upgrades were unbeleiveable. then one fatefull day the antenna broke on my controller reducing range from 150ft to across a room..... well 2 years later i go to radio shack and they have upgraded the chasise and stock motor to 27k (rpm) from 25k (rpm) and they looked hella lot kewler. so i bought the scion ct for $25 (dont know y it dropped $25) and its smoother quieter and drifts like the dk. :) and ive read allot of crap saying i wish they'd make an SE series xmod just so you all know you can buy a light kit for like 8 dollars at radio shack...... you can even get ground fx so under ur car lights up :) i stacked my fet's and got a motor used on my old mini-z and it gets like 26-35 mph. but at that speed its pretty impracticle cause one small little eror in sterring and you gotta get a new body kit..lol besides the steering almost feels like its locking :/ well all in all its worth the money :D