View Full Version : set-up out of the box

2002.02.20, 10:29 AM
having trouble running in a straight line, what parts to remedy. how to increase range of transmitter, getting 10m before interference takes hold. Power dying intermittantly. Please reccommend parts for recreational use but have money to spend to create a car that is fast and doesn't twitch on a straight line.

2002.02.20, 10:33 AM
Welcome to the forum!

The straightline problem is probably solved by a ball diff. Is it worse on hard acceleration?

2002.02.20, 10:45 AM
The reason the straightline and twitching is so common a question and commonly on a Mini-Z.. is cuz there is a number of reasons each of the two quirks exist... and even when u solve them all it will probly find a new reason too twitch or drive crooked...

I have a few of the solutions listed here, but there are more that I will be adding.... such as the pot adjustments need to be centered in a way they dont twitch... my TX seems to cause twitching as well... adjusting the wheel back and forth on it, weather the car is on or not... seems to make it go away for a few minuts but back it goes.. ;) might need to adjust the wheel I guess.


2002.02.20, 10:49 AM
Thanks for the welcome, first time on a forum.

Plan on getting a ball diff, how would a bearing set go.

Why does right hand cornering induce more oversteer than left hand cornering. What Nmh batteries do you reccommend.

Thanks Butler

2002.02.20, 10:53 AM
I think the weight of the motor is the problem. Notice its not central on the car. One of the rear tyres has more grip and spins less because the standard diff has no "limited slip", but the ball diff has, and its adjustable.

I would order ball bearings at the same time, although I didn't, so you don't have to dismantle the back end twice.

Don't know much about the batteries. I assume the ones in the shop are good enough.


2002.02.20, 10:58 AM
I use Energizer ACCU 700mah... (rumor is they are sanyo cells) the Energizer 550-650 cells kinda suck... probly why you dont see them in the store any more ;), they were the green ones... the BLUE/gold ones are the ones that kick the bootah...

bearings and bushings... the bushings that come with the car rely on a hole to keep the axles where they are... thus the hole has to be a bit bigger then the axle in order to let it rotate rather quickly with out acting like a brake and stopping it...

bearings on the other hand dont need the gap and they roll more freely, almost no friction other then rolling friction (almost). The lack of a gap keeps the tires perpendicular to the axle.. and straighter... just one of the many reasons a Z cant go straight.

The design of the car, causes more weight, on one side of the car and mroe traction on that side.. making it turn different... also the stock diff with bushings, has more friction on the already hindered side making it that much worse, and on the hindered side the axle is longer more leverage for the outer most friction, making it even worse again... then the one side thats hindered also has a wheel nut that can be overtightened very easily if its tight enough to rub on the motor pod.. then thats acting like a brake on that side... wich just totaly messes things up.

If any one adds weight to the rear, it should be set in a way to balance the left and right side of the motor offset... let it kill 2 birds with one stone type thing.

2002.02.20, 11:22 AM
thanks guys, overwhelmed with your replys.
we have a clk each and run them on a variety of surfaces. ie polished floors to clean concrete. obviously we are not very busy at work! we can buy 700mah nmh sanyo cells for 7.50 each (oz dollars, probably divide by ten for us) are they better than nicd?

2002.02.20, 11:24 AM
Yes they are much better than nicads... Go for the NiMh cells =)

2002.02.20, 11:27 AM
I have heard a some where the that good Ni-cds give more power in a short race/sprint enviroment. Unless your ultra competitive on short races use Ni-Mh always.

2002.02.20, 11:33 AM
are we replying the right way?
'scuse our ignorance'
ps is the motor in the z the same as the ones you can buy from the electronic shops for $2?

2002.02.20, 06:54 PM
Heya chook,

Welcome to the boards :)

I have some bearings on order from here and got a ball diff as a pressie the other day. Have to say though I got a toe-in tie rod to fix my not running in a straight line problem. (It is a little bit slacker turning though I prefer it running straight) :D

The ball diff is great for cornering though and I guess the bearings will make everything run smoother...

Are you running indoors or out? Personally I have found that indoors give me less range than out. (Prolly electrical interference)

I'm guessing that you are in OZ. (me too!) If you find any hobby shops selling something other than Kyosho hop-ups, let me know!! I only know of Hobbyrama who sell GPMs as well. Everyone else here seem to sell Kyosho only and overly inflated prices. (My opinion. I'm sure they have justifiable reasons for it)

I didn't get the Twicell 700mAH batts, got no name 650mAHs from Jaycars, half the price but I guess I lose about 10 minutes per set running time. (Guesstimate here) but then I have 2 sets so, I can run the car for almost twice as long :D From what I have read here, NiCads seem to give more power but less runtime. I'm not racing, just tooling around with it so the power ain't soo important.

Dunno about the motor, guess if it is a 130 motor it should be fine. There's always the Xspeed if you need it, though it costs a bit more... Wouldn't wanna fry the ESC, 'cos to replace that, you might as well buy a new Mini-Z. Have fun with your CLKs. Got a Lancer myself and waiting on an MR-S :D (Damn, it hasn't arrived yet) :(

Aesch :)