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View Full Version : check out this deal!


Ibrake Ifry
2005.08.27, 03:10 PM
I did this so that everyone who hates iwavers understands why i love them!!!

IWAVER (#IW-011) Mini-Z MR-02 Enzo FERRARI (RD) RTR USD$55.90
TOPCAD (#WH002) Alloy Wheel Set For MR02 (ENZO) USD$12.90
ATOMIC (#AR61R) Steering Blocks For Mini-z For MR02/015 USD$4.90
ATOMIC (#AR05) 10 degree High Grip Tire for Wide Offset(R) USD$3.10
GPM (#MR2890AR08G) Rubber Rear Rad. Tire (B) For ORI.- 8 Deg USD$2.60
ATOMIC (#AR08) High Grade Brush For Atomic Ball Bearing Case USD$3.50
ATOMIC (#AR90) Double Deck GT Spoiler (Black) USD$6.40
TOPCAD (#10551) Graphite H-Plate For MR02/015 MM Chassis USD$6.90
TOPCAD (#10571) Side Damper set (SV) For Mini Z MR02 MM Chassis USD$13.90
GPM (#MR2013E) AL.MOT.MOU F/ORI.MOT (SV) For MR02/015 USD$16.90
ATOMIC (#AR61B) Steering Blocks For Mini-z For MR02/015 USD$4.90
GPM (#MR2049/0) Alloy Steering Plate (0Deg Toe-In) (SV) For MR02/015 USD$4.50

Sub-Total:USD$136.40
Shipping:USD$28.49
Total:USD$164.89

Now, for the cost of a brand new kyosho readyset you can have a fully hopped up IW02...This is pretty shocking! Not too mention i put some random stuff like brushes and extra tires...i did leave out the ball diff since through TE you can get one for like $8
By the way this is copied and pasted from a websites shopping cart...i am not going to say who because i don't do free advertising...heehee

saiyan
2005.08.27, 03:16 PM
I'm on the same page as you on the Iw02. I have 2 and 1 is well modded, and i have just less then $200 in both. ;) :cool:

will3kgt
2005.08.28, 01:10 AM
I in total agreement. I just bought two chassis kits with the bodies for $42. I already have the the alloy parts to go in them.

saiyan
2005.08.28, 02:29 AM
Ya, even though i've been into R/C for almost 20 yrs., i've only recently have gotten into the mini-z. I still consider my self a noob and at my zkill level, the iwavers are plenty good for me. Maybe if i was a big racer and goin for a championship i would need the expert quality and dependability of a Kyosho brand. I have both Kyosho and Iwaver 02s and i have equal fun with both. ;)

Ibrake Ifry
2005.08.28, 12:10 PM
2 chassis sets for $42 Where is this? you can e-mail the response if you don't want to post it!

wkn
2005.08.28, 03:24 PM
2 chassis sets for $42 Where is this? you can e-mail the response if you don't want to post it!

www.rc mart.com

take the space out.

EMU
2005.08.31, 12:09 AM
Topcad wheels will come with tires that are about the same quality as the GPM's :D

Atomic brushes need an Atomic can (or Iwaver Xspeed Pro).

MZW217 Kyosho roll shock set costs only $8.50 and is better quality. The Topcad shocks are the same as the 3racing shocks, which are not too durable. I personally prefer disc dampers. Roll shocks need to be setup properly, so that the pin does not come out of the shaft.

I would also have gone with the "Hot Racing MM Motor mount" http://www.******.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_21_474_476&products_id=14736 $18
It is based off of the PN design. Less parts, easier to work with. Only requirement is a tapped motor can.

Overall, looks like you will have a nice car. Of you can take some pictures of the final setup, Id love to see it. Also give an update of how the build quality is on the new body.

davkin
2005.09.01, 10:56 PM
I wish I had that much faith in Iwaver, but both Iwavers I bought had major reception problems, I absolutely could not race them. I'd say it was a fluke but one of the cars was bought as a readyset here, and the other was bought as a chassis set directly from Iwaver yet they both had the exact same problem, so it's hard for me to dare spend any money on one again. However the new version 2 is tempting, I might just bite when it becomes available.

David

will3kgt
2005.09.02, 01:58 AM
2 chassis sets for $42 Where is this? you can e-mail the response if you don't want to post it!
That's two chassis kits for $42 each....Sorry. :rolleyes:

Ibrake Ifry
2005.09.04, 09:19 PM
well i changed the order a little bit

1 3Racing (#KM-014/BL) 2mm Aluminum Lock Nut -4pcs (BK) For Mini-z USD$3.50
1 3Racing (#KM-014/R) 2mm Aluminum Lock Nut -4pcs (RD) For Mini-z USD$3.50
2 ATOMIC (#AR05) 10 degree High Grip Tire for Wide Offset(R) USD$6.20
2 ATOMIC (#AR08) High Grade Brush For Atomic Ball Bearing Case USD$7.00
1 ATOMIC (#AR61B) Steering Blocks For Mini-z For MR02/015 USD$4.90
1 GPM (#MR2008) Alloy F. Lower Mount w/Collar (SV) For MR02/015 USD$5.50
1 GPM (#MR2021) Alloy F.Knuckle Arm Set (0 Deg) (SV) For MR02/015 USD$10.90
1 GPM (#MR2049/0) Alloy Steering Plate (0Deg Toe-In) (BK) For MR02 USD$4.50
1 GPM (#MR2049/0) Alloy Steering Plate (0Deg Toe-In) (SV) For MR02 USD$4.50
1 Hot Racing (#MZ212MX08) MR02 MM Pod For Screw Mount Motor (SV) USD$17.90
1 IWAVER (#IW-006) MITSUBISHI LANCER EVO (RD) USD$26.90
1 IWAVER (#IW-014) McLaren F1 LM RTR (BK) USD$55.90
1 Kyosho Parts (#MZW2-30) High Grip Tire (30) USD$4.90
2 TOPCAD (#10265) Wrench for setting 4.5mm Lock Nuts (BK) USD$7.80
2 TOPCAD (#10551) Graphite H-Plate For MR02/015 MM Chassis USD$13.80
1 TOPCAD (#10570) Side Damper set (SV) For Mini Z MR02 RM Chassis USD$13.90
1 TOPCAD (#10600S) Ball Differential w/Pinion Gears (SV) For Mini- USD$13.90
1 TOPCAD (#WH017) Alloy Wheel Set For MR02 USD$12.90
1 TOPCAD (#WH043) Alloy Wheel Set for MR02 USD$12.90
1 Yeah Racing Bearing (#YB0011M) For all Motors USD$5.00

Sub-Total: USD$236.30
CP >>HK To US Shipping: USD$39.21
Non-Refundable Bank Charge: USD$6.21
Total: USD$281.71

-I went on sort of a hobby-style impulse buy! Actually half is my friends(the rtr and the blk alloy)

EMU- I did get the hot racing mm motor mount but bought the topcad RM side damper set by accident! Do you think i can modify it some how to fit? oh i have 2 atomic cans to put the brushes on and along wih the bearings. I can't wait to get my stuff and i'll definately post some hi-res photos showing the quality of the iwaver body/chassis, alloy, etc

Ibrake Ifry
2005.09.09, 07:40 PM
OK here is some pics of my car about a few hours out of the box...ok the motor mount for mm...sucks! Actually it looks pretty good, its just that the wheelbase is about 4 mm off with it on! oh well...i have to stay in rm so the side dampers work...the body is good except a few decals on the front bumper(reallly, really small!) are crooked...the chassis kit came with semi wide rims on all fours with foam tires(nice!). With the rims i put on i had to sand the wheel wells a little bit especially in the front. Otherwise the stock motor is slow so i took that out! The steering is excellent. It centers by itself but i haven't been able to test it out high speed. Here is some high res pics of them nice rims...oooh i love the way the red wheel nuts contrast with the rims...lol

Ninja
2005.09.09, 07:49 PM
the MM and RM motor pods are different lengths, it isnt a bad motor mount, it is intended to be that way for MM cars

Ibrake Ifry
2005.09.09, 09:04 PM
i understand that i was actually kind of joking/venting because it won't fit :mad: Now this gives me the perfect excuse to buy an enzo body now!

EMU
2005.09.10, 12:14 AM
i understand that i was actually kind of joking/venting because it won't fit :mad: Now this gives me the perfect excuse to buy an enzo body now!
The McLaren is an MM :rolleyes:

Ibrake Ifry
2005.09.10, 10:52 AM
very true...Actually that mclaren body is pretty nice looking too! The degrade in quality is less evident in the mclaren body. The body is pretty nice...too bad that it is my friends! Maybe he'll trade me! After looking at the pics i noticed more defects than when looking at the car! Those taillights look pretty bad...also the spoiler isn't put on very sturdily...its held on by three little plastic pegs melted on the the underside of the body...the RM topcad side damper even though i was using a RM chassis doesn't fit at all! there is no way it will work...i tried for an hour. the thing i liked the most about this car was the stock motor! I will post a pic later but the armature is very long and it is balanced! It also comes with stronger magnets then a kyosho stock motor. It is lower speed because of the magents and the extra long armature but it has more torque and is very smooth as well as surprisingly quite! Another quip is that the kingpins are plastic and maybe a little wider because the gpm knuckles and the lowering mount don't allow the kingpin to go through at all! The stock bushings are horrible!!! they are seriously out of shape and need replacing right away. The worst part of the car is that the screw holes are way to tight...you need serious muscle and a really good screw driver to get them in. I finished tuning my car with only the ball diff, hplate, and tires and am very happy with the handling and responsiveness. I'll try to post some more pictures on the progress of the mods. I
In conlusion Iwavers are good buys as long as you have the time to solder bad wires and slightly modifiy parts to function properly. Minor defects in the body don't matter to me since they are going to get ruined in a race anywayz!
How would i get more turning ability in a corner with what i have?

EMU
2005.09.10, 11:02 AM
First thing is tires. The softest that I usually go in the fronts is 10's and that is with modified motors. With stock fet motors, I usually use either 15 degree or 18 degree slicks. What type of surface have you been running the car on? For the last few races I have been using the tires that came on the Topcad Alloy wheelsets, and they have been quite good. I am running on an RCP track (Action RC).

You can lower the front end by shimming the knuckles, this will give you more aggressive steering. Also you can use different length tie bars or knuckles that have different degrees in camber.

Glad to hear that your car runs well :D

Ibrake Ifry
2005.09.14, 03:29 PM
ok guys here is the real deal with iwavers. My iwaver sucked over the weekend when i ran it with other mini-z...it sucked so bad. Mainly because it glitched so darn much and even the motor was slow!!
-i was so mad because in the first races i had broken a lot of junk like servo saver, knuckles...and it really ticked me off! I kept on wondering is it just that iwaver sucks? Ding, ding, ding...NO!
The metal battery clips inside were really loose on the batteries!
my car had a 45 turn neo motor inside of an atomic can and ran like garbage. I thought to myself why the heck is this motor just stinking so bad! well I understand why now! It occurred to me mainly when i got some new batteries in the mail...I have a really old set of rat shack xmods batteries and i was used to running those crappy things...well when i put in the new powerizers they sucked too...which led me to believe that something was wrong with the car...so i stacked a 5x2 of 4562s and put in a plasmatomic to see if it was just the motor i was running...well that sucked too! after awhile i just said screw it! I took out the batteries and they practically flew out of the case!
-in conclusion check your freakin battery clips before your next race!!

azzachaz
2005.09.14, 11:32 PM
I have had this problem before too.

I solved it be putting in battery clips with springs on them

Ninja
2005.09.15, 11:38 AM
the best battery clips i have found for the 01 is ones i made myself, i havent tried to make some for the 02 yet, but here is what you do, get some sheet steel or aluminum from your LHS. cut to appropriate width and make them about twice as long as what will fit inside the edge of the chassis (about 2cm), then fold it over and make it look like a V, slide them into the chassis and solder the wires to them, DONE. now when you run a really hot motor the coil springs dont heat up and retract away from the batteries and lose connection, b/c there are no springs ;) im sure you could do this with the 02 as well, but it is already like this, as well as the monster, not sure about the overland though, since i no longer have one. but it seems like Kyosho saw the major flaw in the battery springs with high current and fixed this problem

Ibrake Ifry
2005.10.07, 09:51 PM
Now i know i started this thread but in the midst of it all i have finally come to some conclusions
-Iwavers are awesome for playing with outside and at a tennis court for some high speed runs but if you are going to race with it at a track then you need a kyosho.
-My iwaver after I practically checked every single problem, cranked up the signal strength on the iwaver remote, fixed the battery clips...etc...etc...still glitched really really bad at the track :eek:
-The car ran really good with everybody elses remote off or even 1 or 2 other peoples remotes off but as soon as a few people were racing at the same time my car would get really bad...in fact when the races started and there were about seven other people next to me my car wouldn't even move. it was glitching so bad. :mad:
I now have a kyosho and it runs like a dream! :D

Draconious
2005.10.08, 09:23 AM
I was waiting for this reply ;)

So in the end buying the I waver made you pay more. Because you had to buy a Kyosho as well :) (from a new buyers point of view)

Well buy one of the shops PCB kits, and put kyosho elecs in the I waver :)

davkin
2005.10.09, 12:04 PM
-The car ran really good with everybody elses remote off or even 1 or 2 other peoples remotes off but as soon as a few people were racing at the same time my car would get really bad

Finally! Coaboration! I have complained about the same problem last January and most everybody said it was a fluke, they had no such problems. My guess is they don't race. Even though I like the mechanical design of the new IW02 I won't buy one unless I can be sure I can race it without glitching.

David