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View Full Version : Yeah, I've crossed over to 1:18, I love my 18T!!!


SonicFury
2005.09.22, 02:27 PM
Well you guys haven't seen me around here much and that's because I've been spending all my time at one18th.com. I got my self an AE RC18T and have been HAVING A BLAST with it and I haven't looked back.

Here's some links to some awesome pics you should check out
Gallery 1 (http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery7176.htm)
Gallery 2 (http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery7182.htm)

...and more importantly I'm making an awesome video highlighting my RC18T and other micro RC's. Click this link to watch my trailer to my upcoming video, Micro Madness 2005!! You won't regret it!!!

Micro Madness 2005 Trailer (http://www.one18th.com/gallery/albums/album01/zei.mpg)


-2100mah 2 cell li-po pack
-Mamba Comp-X brushless set up
-Futaba 2PL-AM Tx/Rx combo
-Fully custom Crowd Pleazer 2.0 body painted to my specifications by DNA Designs
-18MT tire set
-Other random things

TNB
2005.09.22, 03:25 PM
Although the photos in gallery 1 look pretty neat, it needs more bling. ;)

bolter9
2005.09.22, 05:32 PM
Tomorrow I'm picking up an 18T to mess around with.
Any thoughts on the MT vs. the T? I haven't made up my mind yet.

Mini Z will always be my #1 option though :D :D

TNB
2005.09.22, 05:57 PM
Although I own a brushless RC18T with most all the bling out there, I'm not all that impressed and actually prefer my Kyosho Mini-Infernos instead. My RC18T drops to the front battery side off of jumps, so I added weights to the opposite side. :rolleyes:

You may also want to check out the CEN Mini-Madness or wait until the new Losi is released. The CEN has a 540 and it won't surprise me if the new Losi has a 540 as well. This also means that a Novak 540 brushless should drop right in. :D If you don't want to go that fast (540 wise), the Xray M18T is another option as well as the RC18T/MT.

bolter9
2005.09.22, 06:01 PM
Although I own a brushless RC18T with most all the bling out there, I'm not all that impressed and actually prefer my Kyosho Mini-Infernos instead. My RC18T drops to the front battery side off of jumps, so I added weights to the opposite side. :rolleyes:

You may also want to check out the CEN Mini-Madness or wait until the new Losi is released. The CEN has a 540 and it won't surprise me if the new Losi has a 540 as well. This also means that a Novak 540 brushless should drop right in. :D If you don't want to go that fast (540 wise), the Xray M18T is another option as well as the RC18T/MT.


cool- I'll take a look around the LHS. I've done a bunch of research and what not, but mostly regarding the mini t and RC18t. One of the incentives is that we do have a club in town that races the min t/18t...but it's all indoor oval...so that might not be a huge factor in the decision making process for me.

SonicFury
2005.09.23, 12:07 AM
Tomorrow I'm picking up an 18T to mess around with.
Any thoughts on the MT vs. the T? I haven't made up my mind yet.

Mini Z will always be my #1 option though :D :D

TNB brings up a lot of good points, but it ultimately comes down to what your lhs has replacement parts in stock for as they will break often. Here's a quick 18T/MT comparison;

18T:
14 tooth pinion
mini pin racing compound tires
stadium truck body

18MT:
10 tooth pinion
Bigger monster truck tires
Monster truck body

If you're planning on racing only, get the 18T and if you plan on doing some bashing on the side, pick up some rear Mini-T wheels and tries (rear only!!!) that are big and have some good dirt tread on them. I feel the MT is a better value overall, but not for you they way you explain your application.

TNB I've heard only horrible things about the Half 8. You must really love the Kyosho name. Also, for the extreme bash driving I do bling would be a huge waste of money. That's why it's mostly plastic.

TNB
2005.09.23, 03:34 AM
TNB brings up a lot of good points, but it ultimately comes down to what your lhs has replacement parts in stock for as they will break often. * * * * *
TNB I've heard only horrible things about the Half 8. You must really love the Kyosho name. Also, for the extreme bash driving I do bling would be a huge waste of money. That's why it's mostly plastic.
Most people I've heard talk trash about the Kyosho Mini-Inferno have never owned one nor driven one. Others didn't have enough common sense to read the instructions and realize that the slipper gear is intentionally shipped loose, so they didn't bother to tighten it before trying to run it and all they did was complain.

My brushless Half8 casualty list: One front shock tower, one spur gear because the motor slipped--my fault since I should have used different motor screws, and tires and wheels. It had a Castle CM2080 (8000kv) motor in it until I replaced it with an AON motor. I also run it with a 11.1v 3-cell lipo. The landings are very even and balanced on the 1/8th scale dirts tracks where I run. The bad thing is that the stock set-up is just like the Losi Mini-T and that is it has an integrated receiver/ESC and a 4-wire servo.

My RC18T casualty list: Front and Rear arm mounts, dogbone, springs, shock kit. However, I've been lucky compared to some. And although my RC18T has a CM2080 in it and I'm running a 6-cell, my RC18T has not been beaten anywhere near as bad as my brushless Mini-Inferno. My RC18T also has lots of option parts (including a bumper) and weights to try and balance it on the jumps. Of course, Radio Control Car Action, October 2005, at 124-132, favored the Losi Mini-T Pro over the RC18T.

Myself, I'd probably purchase the Kyosho Mini-Inferno ST over the RC18MT.

And for your information, I own a lot of other RCs besides just Kyosho. That list also includes ABC, Associated, FG, Losi, Mugen, Tamiya, Traxxas, Venom, WCM, Xray, and Yokomo in addition to the smaller Iwavers and Xmods. The RCs number over 50 from 1/4 scale on down.

By the way, are you even going to start a Kyosho Mini-Z gallery?
______________________________

Can I convert my 18T to a monster truck?

Yes you can. You'll need the following parts:

#21065 18MT Wheel/Tire/Insert, mounted $17.99
#21063 18MT Chrome Wheels $ 7.99
#21064 18MT Tires and Inserts $10.99
#21072 18MT Body, flag design $17.99
#21075 18MT Body, clear, with masks and decals $11.99
#21076 18MT Decal Sheet and Window Masks $ 3.99
#21129 M3 x 5 BHPS (motor screws) $ 1.99
#21210 Super 370 Motor $11.99
(must use #21129 screws to mount)
#21152 10T Motor Pinion $ 3.99
#21239 18MT Flag Kit $ 6.99

http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_18mt/kit18mt_features.htm

Feature 18T 18MT
Length
218mm
225mm

Width
182mm
188mm

Weight (with body)
540g
605g

Wheelbase
154mm
154mm

Internal Gear Ratio:
2.5:1
2.5:1

Drivetrain
Shaft drive
Shaft drive

http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_18mt/kit18mt_features.htm

bolter9
2005.09.23, 11:35 AM
I'll check out the options at the LHS tonight- I know they have the RC18T and MT RTRs, but I'm mostly concerned about getting the newest version- I guess the new ones all have the 370 motor, shimmed diffs and outdrive sleeves.

I don't see any point in getting an older RTR that doesn't have these upgrades.

however, at this point I'm leaning towards the MT simply because I will be running this around in my yard for the time being- all my race time is taken up with Mini Z, so this is pretty much a truck to play around with for now. I'm going to get a beetle body and do the "herbbie" thing...saw that on one18th.com...looks cool!

TNB
2005.09.23, 12:06 PM
Don't forget, there is also the RC18T Factory Team edition. I mounted a beetle body on my Losi Mini-T though I didn't do the Herbie thing. I was lazy and turned it into a Yellow Cab. :rolleyes:

bolter9
2005.09.23, 12:45 PM
Don't forget, there is also the RC18T Factory Team edition. I mounted a beetle body on my Losi Mini-T though I didn't do the Herbie thing. I was lazy and turned it into a Yellow Cab. :rolleyes:

Yeah I was considering the Team edition, but since I'm new to offroad, I decided to go with an RTR and then upgrade if my interest stays-it's tempting to buy it all now, but like I said, Mini Z is still where my $$ are at. If I went team, I'd have to buy all the radio gear too, as I don't have any extra laying around.

I'm hoping the RTR will work with my M11 mini Z AM module....anyone try that? (don't see why it wouldn't)

heh- yellow cab? that could be cool :D

TNB
2005.09.23, 01:12 PM
When running my RC18T, I use my Futaba T3PK with the AM Converion Module. Consequently, your M11 set up should work fine with the Z- AM Module.

bolter9
2005.09.23, 02:26 PM
When running my RC18T, I use my Futaba T3PK with the AM Converion Module. Consequently, your M11 set up should work fine with the Z- AM Module.

I figured as much. The only "issue" i've had with it on the mini Z is that the steering and throttle trims have to be set to the far left- I'm guessing it'll be easier to center the servo on the RC18T then the mini z...

TNB
2005.09.23, 03:19 PM
The stock RC18T has some stearing slop, but the servo itself should center. Instead of adjusting the transmitter so much, center both the steering and subtrim on the transmitter and adjust the servo horn on the servo itself. Try to use the transmitter adjustments for fine tuning only. The same thing goes for Kyosho Mini-Zs--there is an adjustment for the RCs themselves.

SonicFury
2005.09.23, 03:28 PM
Most people I've heard talk trash about the Kyosho Mini-Inferno have never owned one nor driven one. Others didn't have enough common sense to read the instructions and realize that the slipper gear is intentionally shipped loose, so they didn't bother to tighten it before trying to run it and all they did was complain.

My brushless Half8 casualty list: One front shock tower, one spur gear because the motor slipped--my fault since I should have used different motor screws, and tires and wheels. It had a Castle CM2080 (8000kv) motor in it until I replaced it with an AON motor. I also run it with a 11.1v 3-cell lipo. The landings are very even and balanced on the 1/8th scale dirts tracks where I run. The bad thing is that the stock set-up is just like the Losi Mini-T and that is it has an integrated receiver/ESC and a 4-wire servo.

My RC18T casualty list: Front and Rear arm mounts, dogbone, springs, shock kit. However, I've been lucky compared to some. And although my RC18T has a CM2080 in it and I'm running a 6-cell, my RC18T has not been beaten anywhere near as bad as my brushless Mini-Inferno. My RC18T also has lots of option parts (including a bumper) and weights to try and balance it on the jumps. Of course, Radio Control Car Action, October 2005, at 124-132, favored the Losi Mini-T Pro over the RC18T.

Myself, I'd probably purchase the Kyosho Mini-Inferno ST over the RC18MT.

And for your information, I own a lot of other RCs besides just Kyosho. That list also includes ABC, Associated, FG, Losi, Mugen, Tamiya, Traxxas, Venom, WCM, Xray, and Yokomo in addition to the smaller Iwavers and Xmods. The RCs number over 50 from 1/4 scale on down.

By the way, are you even going to start a Kyosho Mini-Z gallery?

Yeah, I just finished reading that mini truck showdown and I was shocked. I do believe that if they were to do another test with the neccesarry upgrades for both trucks (for example an upgraded steering linkage for the 18T to pick up all the slop) that the 18T could take the Mini-T. Or maybe I'm just blindly biased.

Yes, I do know that you own lots of other RC's. I've looked through some of your galleries, all of them points of envy. I never made a gallery for my MZM because my MZM interest was somewhat short-lived. I've had a lot of probs with my MZM and I bought my 18T in the middle of my MZM repairs which re-directed my money and time. I just can't for the life of me get my 14tooth mRS4 pinion to stop binding with my MZM's titanium main gear. When I fix that, I'm sure I'll be back into my MZM because it has everything to be a wicked fast little truck.

TNB
2005.09.23, 05:20 PM
Yeah, I just finished reading that mini truck showdown and I was shocked. I do believe that if they were to do another test with the neccesarry upgrades for both trucks (for example an upgraded steering linkage for the 18T to pick up all the slop) that the 18T could take the Mini-T. Or maybe I'm just blindly biased.
I wasn't surprised at all since it was a Losi Mini-T Pro and the Losi Mini-T Pro was simply put on more of a level playing field. Most people I've encountered usually compare their 1/18th scales against the Losi Miin-T RTR, which most know needed shocks, batteries, and a different motor.

Most of the later manufacturer releases also seemed to target the Losi Mini-T and in AE's case, also shipped their RTR with better shocks, batteries, and a different motor. In my opinon, Kyosho either mistakenly used the same type of electronics as basically was in the Losi Mini-T or they anticipated that the more serious racer would simply rip them out anyway and didn't care about the electronics since the overall cost could still be kept down.

Also in my opinion, Kyosho Japan may not realize that many Americans don't seem to care how well something handles at the 1/20-1/16th scale level, but only how fast it simply goes--the first question I usually hear or read from a newbee is "how fast?" Then it is how much. Myself, I like something that can "handle" since the RC can probably be made faster easier than fixing a handling issue--but someone at Kyosho may feel the same way.

I know the "balance" is off on my RC18T and on the few others I have checked. And when I posted earlier that "my RC18T has not been beaten anywhere near as bad as my brushless Mini-Inferno", I also meant that I have "abused" and beat my Mini-Inferno or ran it a lot harder than my RC18T. If you check into the new Kyosho Mini-Inferno ST, you will also notice a few upgrades (or optional parts) from the original Mini-Inferno.

The bottom line is that RCs are improving and the second release or latter company releasing something, should produce a better product unless their target consumer is not in the same economic base. Examples: Losi released the Mini-T RTR, then the Pro, and soon, perhaps a Mini-LST; Kyosho Mini-Inferno and then Mini-Inferno ST. Hopefully, the consumer can also purchase higher quality RCs (any brand of RCs) for the same price as the competition increases much like electronics.

Myself, I want to check out the HPI 1/5th scale buggy. Is it race legal--not in Europe since most run 1/6th scale. Will it be race legal in the US--not much large scale buggy racing here anyway. Come to think of it, that sort of reminds me of Kyosho releasing a 1/16th scale while most released an 1/18th scale. Better yet, an HPI 1/8th scale Savage when Traxxas was selling 1/10th scales and the racing organizations kept them separate. ;)

bolter9
2005.09.23, 05:32 PM
The stock RC18T has some stearing slop, but the servo itself should center. Instead of adjusting the transmitter so much, center both the steering and subtrim on the transmitter and adjust the servo horn on the servo itself. Try to use the transmitter adjustments for fine tuning only. The same thing goes for Kyosho Mini-Zs--there is an adjustment for the RCs themselves.

How do you center the servo on the mini z? I'll search for a tut when I'm out of the office, but if you know one off hand, that'd be great.

Thanks.

mini-z racing
2005.09.23, 06:30 PM
The 18th scales are very neat.

TNB
2005.09.23, 07:09 PM
How do you center the servo on the mini z? I'll search for a tut when I'm out of the office, but if you know one off hand, that'd be great.

Thanks.
Visit the following link and scroll down to "Tuning Steering POT". Although the tech instructions are for an MR-01 and show the MR-01 being taken apart, there is no reason to since the sticker can simply be pulled back and the steering pot adjusted with a small flat head screwdriver. It is the same procedure with the MR-02. The Overland and Monster adjustment is underneath the front shock stay and has no sticker covering the hole. The F1 has the hole exposing the adjustment underneath the underbody chassis. Just be very careful with the screwdriver and the adjustment is very sensitive so make sure the increments are very small.

http://www.minizcanada.com/tech/radio.php#steeringpot

Ken Mifune
2005.09.23, 09:10 PM
The 18th scales are very neat.Yep. I set up an X-Ray M18 with a center mount motor, saddle pack and synthesized radio. It's a blast but not very indoor friendly. Haven't raced it yet, just bashing around out side and my RCPs are packed up for now.
http://yourmicro.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=166513

bolter9
2005.09.24, 03:15 AM
Visit the following link and scroll down to "Tuning Steering POT". Although the tech instructions are for an MR-01 and show the MR-01 being taken apart, there is no reason to since the sticker can simply be pulled back and the steering pot adjusted with a small flat head screwdriver. It is the same procedure with the MR-02. The Overland and Monster adjustment is underneath the front shock stay and has no sticker covering the hole. The F1 has the hole exposing the adjustment underneath the underbody chassis. Just be very careful with the screwdriver and the adjustment is very sensitive so make sure the increments are very small.

http://www.minizcanada.com/tech/radio.php#steeringpot


Thanks for the link- I've been there, but haven't read the tutorial in depth.

I did pick, up an RC18MT tonight - haven't really run it since the batt is pretty drained, but got a couple minutes out of it. Looks like it's going to be a sweet truck! Sadly the beetle body was out of stock, so I settled for a crowd pleaser 2 (don't like the stock MT body).

Anyway, tomorrow will be the fun when both my batts are charged...I can already see myself wanting some bling for this thing :D

Mondo
2005.09.24, 03:54 AM
The 18th scales are very neat.

I have to agree. I have a big 18th scale collection and my focus on "Micro class" and racing 8th scale buggies & truggies every weekend leaves my Mini-Zs collecting dust.
Zs are great in the correct environment, however 18th scales are great for outdoor use.
I have two RC18Ts, 3 Micro RS4s, an M18, a MiniZilla and a TTR ZK-2, all are 18th scale. Some are brushless Micros and some of my collection have the best tuned 300 size motors available like the URC Krystal-3 and the Pro-RK370
That's what makes Micro class so great: Hop ups that actually do make a difference and a real choice of electronics and batteries.

Admitedly I believe Kyosho's decision to release a "16th scale" was pretty lame when the industry standard is 18th scale.
I've been reluctant to buy anything Kyosho in the UK due to a paradigm shift in the distribution process. All European Kyosho products are now distributed exclusively thru Kyosho Europe in France. This causes a logistical nightmare when it comes to spares, nothing is warehoused in the UK any more.

Fortunaly other brands have entered the small buggy market so this lowers the price and guarantees us European Micro fans a better choice. LRP have released the "Shark" and Duratrax call it the "Vendetta" and Fastrax call it the Blaze Same thing, but at a realstic price.

Micro class is growing with many manufacturers entering the class with exciting new products, where Mini class has a very limited choice regarding manufacturers.
In essence Mini-Zs, X-Mods and IWavers are toys compared to brand name Micro products.

TNB
2005.09.25, 12:29 PM
Admitedly I believe Kyosho's decision to release a "16th scale" was pretty lame when the industry standard is 18th scale.
When you actually see how small an 1/18th scale buggy really is, you may have second thoughts, especially if you want to use replacement tires. Check out an A-Tech 1/18th scale buggy sometime. As far as so-called "industry standards" being 1/18th scale, have you ever seen a Duratrax Mini-Quake? What about a CEN Mini-Madness? They may be called 1/18th scales, but they are larger than the RC18T. It also wouldn't surprise me if the HPI Mini-LST is larger than the RC18T though it was HPI who brought out the 1/18th scale MRS4 long ago and long before the Losi Mini-T. Of course, it was also HPI who released the 1/8th scale Savage when others were running 1/10th scales. HPI is also releasing a 1/5th scale buggy while other companies released 1/6th scale buggies. To me, HPI's stepping-up or increasing scale size is no different from what Kyosho did and no body has to purchase any of them if they don't want one. The market will also probably dictate which models survive.

bolter9
2005.09.25, 08:41 PM
That's what makes Micro class so great: Hop ups that actually do make a difference...

Are you suggesting that hop ups for mini Z don't make a performance difference?- what've you been smokin'?

Back on topic- ran my RC18T on the 1/10 offroad track yesterday- Wow! impressive! that little truck can handle the big jumps pretty well. I managed to not break anything, although I did lose a a rear shock spring cup- something to stock up on I guess....and I got ran over by my friend's 1/8 nitro truck :p

As expected, the 18T runs great on my M11 with Mini Z module...but I'm probably going to try the spectrum setup eventually, just because I can.

Anyway, between that and a solid Mini Z race last night, I've had a pretty good RC weekend!

bolter9
2005.09.25, 09:15 PM
oh yeah, and I also blew the spare 6cell that I purchased for the 18T. It had just finished charging on my super brain 959 (at 1 amp) when one of the cells exploded- Never seen that happen before (when charged properly) :mad:

Mondo
2005.09.26, 08:22 AM
Are you suggesting that hop ups for mini Z don't make a performance difference?- what've you been smokin'?

Right, I said hop ups that actually can make a difference. Read into the meaning of my reply and not just the words! I do own Zs and have done for over 5 years!
The Z hopups do make a difference, however these are not as significantly noticable as those we add to the Micro scales.
Any back on topic, if you want to make an issue about Z hopups, do it in another Thread.

bolter9
2005.09.26, 12:01 PM
Right, I said hop ups that actually can make a difference. Read into the meaning of my reply and not just the words! I do own Zs and have done for over 5 years!
The Z hopups do make a difference, however these are not as significantly noticable as those we add to the Micro scales.
Any back on topic, if you want to make an issue about Z hopups, do it in another Thread.

Easy there killer...just wasn't clear on what you were saying- thanks for clarifying.

What's your guys' opinion on alloy parts for this truck? there's always the school of thought that says alloy weakens non-alloy parts...but how necessary is alloy for off road stuff like the 18T? ...I'm debating the team alloy upgrade.

mini-z racing
2005.09.26, 12:07 PM
I know for dirt oval ive seen alot of guys use alot of alloy parts because since there going very fast they need some weight on the car, If you do replace a part with alloy sometimes it will weaken the plastic parts.

bolter9
2005.09.26, 01:29 PM
I know for dirt oval ive seen alot of guys use alot of alloy parts because since there going very fast they need some weight on the car, If you do replace a part with alloy sometimes it will weaken the plastic parts.

Yeah that's kind of what I was thinking. I have heard that if you put in a faster motor (mamba, etc) you need to upgrade certain parts as well.

Mondo
2005.09.27, 08:24 AM
Yeah that's kind of what I was thinking. I have heard that if you put in a faster motor (mamba, etc) you need to upgrade certain parts as well.

The RC18T will melt the outdrives and diff with a Mamba unless you put some serious cash into it and upgrade to stainless steel or steel outdrives and MIP CVDs. The diffs also require frequent shimming to prevent them slipping as the diff drive gears wear down with frequent use.
The entire thing can get crazy like this liitle RC18T "Road Runner" project (http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18277) of mine. I don't even want to place a Dollar value on that, but it is fun and it's a handful, even with a 5400 motor.
Fortunately I also own a 300 powered RC18T that is dedicated for off road use, only has outdrive upgrades, FT Threaded shocks and MIP CVDs. The plastic parts hold up nicely to the abuse!

bolter9
2005.09.27, 11:22 AM
The RC18T will melt the outdrives and diff with a Mamba unless you put some serious cash into it and upgrade to stainless steel or steel outdrives and MIP CVDs. The diffs also require frequent shimming to prevent them slipping as the diff drive gears wear down with frequent use.
The entire thing can get crazy like this liitle RC18T "Road Runner" project (http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18277) of mine. I don't even want to place a Dollar value on that, but it is fun and it's a handful, even with a 5400 motor.
Fortunately I also own a 300 powered RC18T that is dedicated for off road use, only has outdrive upgrades, FT Threaded shocks and MIP CVDs. The plastic parts hold up nicely to the abuse!

Yeah I hear the mamba is pretty wicked!

Hopefully I won't have to tweak the shim anytime soon, as the new models come with shimmed diffs (and outboard sleaves)...I think I'm just going to run it stock for a while and learn about the quirks and then start upgrading.

SonicFury
2005.09.27, 02:23 PM
bolter, the Mamba is the one upgrade that I feel all 18T's deserve. For the sheer enjoyment and power I've gotten out of my Mamba Comp-X package I would have easily spent upwards of $200 for it. I did get it for $110 though which made it that much sweeter. As for alloy, it depends on how serious you bash. I can't put alloy parts in mine for my driving. I'm frequently racing in skate parks and my truck gets launched over two stories at least once a week, sometimes higher if I feel like pushing the speed a little more before the jump and therefore give me more broken stuff to work on. I had alloy arms at one point, but had to take them out. I landed my truck on a tire and the alloy arm ripped the king pin right out of my chassis, forcing me to buy new one for a very small but important tear in the plastic. When I stay plastic all around for the most part these kinds of things don't happen. The plastic flexes which I'm sure you already know. If you're just going to be dirt bashing, get your self some alloy towers (body clips will rip their way through the stock tower clip holes after a while), MIP CVD's (VERY handy upgrade), outdrive sleeves, and upgrade your steering linkage as the stock one sucks. Also look into some aftermarket shocks (not the AE collars, full aftermarket shocks like GPM) because AE shocks leak all too fast. Make sure to use some Green Slime when building your shocks to help that.

SonicFury
2006.02.06, 05:01 PM
Welp, for those who watched the first Micro Madness trailer in this thread and are wondering about the full vid's release, I posted a second trailer online a few weeks ago.

All the info on the trailer, the trailer itself, why I made it, a link to the first trailer etc. is included in the link in my profile. Enjoy!

Stoovey
2006.02.11, 02:47 AM
I bought an RC18MT last year, haven't really gotten any outside runtime. It's pretty rugged for the size, perhaps even stronger than an E-Maxx. Haven't done any mods yet, not that I've really got any planned. It doesn't really need any mods anyway...