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AMelendrez
2006.03.27, 10:00 AM
I plan on purchasing a blank Enzo body and custom painting it. Can anyone explain what combo of paints to use to avoid streaking? Acrylic then clearcoat, or enamels then clearcoat?? Thanks..

herman
2006.03.27, 10:25 PM
hmm... why not just get a white unpainted enzo body and start from scratch... i've read that the black enzo is... rare... (i may be wrong though)...

anyway i use tamiya rattlecans for plastic models... other guys are more professional, and use air brushes...

as far as acrylic vs enamels... i guess somebody has to jump in here to say which is better...

as a final touch, yes clear coating would 'seal' the deal if you know what i mean...

try doing a search on 'painting tips' there are some cool guys who did some really awesome custom paint jobs on their z's...

good luck... :D

EMU
2006.03.27, 11:57 PM
He said BLANK not BLACK ;)

For the most part, I just use plastic Krylon paint, with the matching clear coat to the paint that I used. But for the most part, I leave my bodies unpainted.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f198/MagicManRed/Mini-Z%2000/IMG_1182.jpg

You have to make sure not to mix different types of paint and clear coat. And be sure to use thin layers of paint and clearcoat. Expect to do about 3 to 5 thin layers of paint, dont do just one thick coat, that will increase streaks and drips, as well as reduce the detail of the body, and make it easy to chip off. Wait about 10 minutes between coats.

saiyan
2006.03.28, 12:49 AM
Ya several coats is key. The first coat should look like a specaling and the next should just barely cover up the white and so on. Give the paint at least a half hour inbetween each coat. Weather has a lot to do with how paint dries. Wich ever you go with as far as acrylic or enamal make sure you use the same brand of paint for the clear. I learned a while back that some clears don't mix well with different types of paint and i ended up with an orange peel effect and it was very soft even after several days of curing. I've not had any problems with Tamiya model paints and Testors brand of enamals either.

byebye
2006.03.28, 01:35 AM
He said BLANK not BLACK ;)



Ya know I did the exact same thing and thought I read black but didn't reply :p. Who calls them blank?????j/k ;) LMAO!

I think everyone has at least once did a custom paint job. Lots of good advice. Good luck!

-Byebye

AMelendrez
2006.03.28, 10:33 AM
Thanks for the advice. As soon as I finish this project I'll post it for everybody to see.


Ya several coats is key. The first coat should look like a specaling and the next should just barely cover up the white and so on. Give the paint at least a half hour inbetween each coat. Weather has a lot to do with how paint dries. Wich ever you go with as far as acrylic or enamal make sure you use the same brand of paint for the clear. I learned a while back that some clears don't mix well with different types of paint and i ended up with an orange peel effect and it was very soft even after several days of curing. I've not had any problems with Tamiya model paints and Testors brand of enamals either.

DogbreathRacing
2006.03.28, 11:05 AM
acrylic is easier to clean up after painting, dries faster (to touch in less than 12 min), and dries harder than enamel, be sure to use matching acrylic clearcoat when done

saiyan
2006.03.28, 12:00 PM
The enamel will give a better shine, but the acrylic will go down better in areas where there is alot of detail without losing the detail so much. Just thought to add that characteristic of the paints.

HammerZ
2006.03.28, 07:18 PM
On most of my undecorated bodys I used Tamiya spray (TS) paint. Works well with the white primer. I have toyed with the idea of doing one up with Dupla-color paints, I know that that stuff has strong solvents. So it would have to be used in light coats, with plenty of time for it to setup. I did a test piece with some sprue plastic with straight paint, it looked like it held up well.