View Full Version : mod motor temperature

2006.05.25, 05:09 PM
How hot do mod motors typically get on a technical track (generally)? I ask because now that i have the rcp at my house, i just go out there and do lap after lap not paying attention to time and after a while i'll pull the car and the motor will be pretty hot along with the atomic motor mount. I don't have a temp gauge, but it's hot enough that i can keep my finger on the motor for a few seconds. i assume i should prolly keep a time and only run for 5 minutes at a time, but that is hard when ya in the groove! hahaha....

i am running a 7t pinion and mesh is i'd say it's a little looser than 50/50 mesh (if you don't know what that means, it means 50 percent of the tooth is touching another tooth at it's closest mesh point)

2006.05.25, 05:55 PM
You need one of these (http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/852/DSC000971.JPG)

Seriously though. My AWD motors get pretty hot even with the Atomic heat sinks. I don't pay too much attention to my MR02's. I don't think they get as hot as the AWD.

2006.05.25, 07:14 PM
RCP can be very demanding on a motor. My AWD modified motors 24 turn, 28 turn, 32 turn, 35 turn all get very hot! My 28 turn melts endbells. My heatsink got so hot my chassis clip where the heat sink attaches melted and bent inwards. Releasing my heat sink onto the track. Also Rubber from the track constantly melts to my brushes forming a fuzzy black mess on them. I clean them at the end of a hard night.

Modified motors get very hot. But a good wind and proper venting of the can, along with great bearings will reduce that heat a lot. If you want your motor to stay cooler then just drill some extra holes in the can, and then dremmel off the burr's. It makes a big difference when you open it up so the air can come in and out. And i hear the atomic can allows great circulation through its endbel.

2006.05.25, 07:33 PM
This is off topic..but bullit...

Since you have your track all set up, you should run some time trials and so we can get the Mini-96 HFAY TT's going.

Here's the link...

There's a tutorial for the timer in my sig. I also have a spare lap timer that I can build up (just need a laser) if you want me to build it up and just pay me for the parts. (Probably $10-$20)

2006.05.26, 02:05 AM
The mini-tile tracks tend to heat up the motors more than the larger ones, since you are allways accelerating and not coasting much. On an MR02 I have never had a problem due to heat unlike my MA010 which will overheat if you dont give it a break.

I would let it cool down a little between batteries, but 10-15 minute runs shouldnt be an issue. You may want to setup a fan station to cool the car after runs. You can use any standard PC fan and wire it to the batteries that you just ran to discharge them a little more before charging. I used to do this when I raced at HKS, but at ARCMS I dont feel the need since there is less acceleration and the car runs at top speed for most of the run.

2007.04.03, 10:27 PM
i run an Atomic AD motor with an 2X2 fet , i like to know how hot can i get this Motor

2007.04.03, 11:37 PM

I used to run an ADband with my AD band board (2x2 3010 fet) and it could get pretty hot on a small semi-technical track(mini96 + expansion). It certainly has a need for a good motor clip(at that time, I was using the 3racing cage-bar clip), but not to the point of melting anything just yet. :p

For the heat issue, like other posts I wrote, I do suggest the late PN air scoop metal clip--it is all metal made and with the cage-bar design to further enchance the cooling. Also, it is a little thinner in profile so it could fit onto my AWD with most body that I used.(IW Enzo, 350z, etc)

2007.04.04, 12:29 AM
i run an Atomic AD motor with an 2X2 fet , i like to know how hot can i get this Motor
Rule of thumb... you should be able to put your finger on it for at least 3 seconds without having to pull off. I personally use a 5 second rule... I also make sure that the bearings are clean and bushing oiled well at the beginning of the race day and before the third qualifiers... I usually spray out my motor at the end of the night, but sometimes I will do it in the beginning if the car hasnt been run in a while. You can also use motor cleaner to cool the motor after the race, just a little spray upside down on the outside of the car will help cool it faster... or if you have a compressor, just shoot some air on it for a few seconds.

If you are running a tight technical track, you really dont need a powerful motor... an X-Speed in a BB can is powerful enough, and doesnt get hot easily.

2009.01.14, 10:07 AM
I need help,

let me tell you the specs:

AWD full bearings ASF board with 4562 fets 2 (2X1) full fet replacment.
Motor: PN S02 in old school PN BB case no holes at all.

The chasis doesnt bind with out the motor, and actually roll nicely when my S02 is in, however last night I drove for 10 minutes and the motor got very very hot, I could not touch it for more than a second with out burning my finger. I have the feeling that if i kept on running it I could posibbly melt my chassis. This same motor (w an improper mesh) melted a chassis.

Should i replace the can?

I began to run my beloved x-speed and that thing ran cool (no vents on the can or anything - stock AWD xpeed).

Could it be possible that I need a 2X2 FET stack uptop to run this motor?

2009.01.15, 12:57 PM
no one uh?

2009.01.15, 01:31 PM
The S02 if I remember correctly runs pretty hot. I would try a different motor that doesnt run as hot but still has lots of power. Atomic Stock-R would be a good choice.