View Full Version : new motors ( break in) how?

2006.06.06, 03:09 PM
Hi how does one breakin a new motor? :confused:

2006.06.06, 03:25 PM
Hi how does one breakin a new motor? :confused:

It's been discussed, it should be a FAQ. Here are two links.

A good one from ph2t

and a thread here...


2006.06.06, 04:29 PM
I just read those threads. I water dip all my serious motors. I use a non bb can for the dipping not a BB can. I water dip for 15 minutes with a 3 volt powersupply. I reccomend water dipping because it prolongs the life of the commutator and keeps it clean as well. I have found many comms with brush deposits between the com pads, this can cause your current to run higher than normal. Breaking in the brushes in water eliminates arcing as well as this brush deposit. Thats why i like it. As for the brushes, it makes no difference if its done in the air or the water or during a practice session. The brushes will be exactly the same, curved!. I do it for the commutator effects, especially if you are using a silver fat comm. It sucks when you see your silver comm go copper before you even try it in your car..

2006.06.06, 05:44 PM
Another way is to not apply power to the motor at all... couple it to a old worn motors shaft, and have the old motor spin the motor your are breaking in, while you apply lube, com drops, and motor cleaner to it...

2006.06.06, 06:15 PM
After a year or so of playing with the MiniZ motors and trying about every method I have read here, I went back to same old way I broke in my stock 1/10th scale motors. First thing I do is to check the arms balance in the can. Unless Jim Dieter is tuning your motors for you, the arm isnt shimmed right in the magnetic pull of the can. To check this, push and pull on the shaft and see if the arm is centered in the magnetic flux of the can. If its not, pull the endbell off and re-arange the shims so the arm is centered and not rubbing on one end of the bushing/bearing causing drag.

While you have the armature out, check the fit of the shaft in the bushings on both ends. Odds are its a little tight. You can smooth out the fit by using Brasso or toothpaste in that area while turing it with an adjustable speed dremmel or drill press. Use a slow rpm and clean well before re-assembly.

For break in, I prefere to use a small dab of comm drops on the comm and I use different voltages. Ill run 1 cell or 1.5 volts if you have a T-30 for about 4 minutes. Then Ill reverse the leads and run it backwards for 2 minutes at the same voltage after the motor is cool. Then I will run 2 cells for a few minutes, allow to cool, then 3 cells for a few minutes, allow to cool and finally 4 cells off and on never letting the motor get too warm.

Im a firm beliver in keeping the motor clean, but remember this. The brushes have a lubricant built into them. If at all possible, dont use motor spray on the brushes.

As far as maintaining the motor, I polish the comm after every weekend of racing. I havent got into playing with brushes or tuning the springs yet, but I will. :eek:

2006.06.06, 07:38 PM
for what it is worth...

i now break in my mini-z motors like i do my 1/18 motors...i do this because i tried some of the crazy break-in stuff with some of my motors and just like the old days with my old 540 motors, simple seems just as good. i'm not a pro racer though, so take it for what it's worth. i do know my motors run well and run fast.

for a 130 motor, i run them on 1 AA for a minute or so...let it cool down, then do it again...cool down, then do it one last time. i then clean the motor after it's totally cool, re-oil and run it on that cell until it dies, usually i am using crappy AA alkalines that we at one point got 100 or so of, so it usually runs say...5-10 minutes. i keep an eye on temp and make sure it doesn't run too hot. i then clean, re-oil, clean the comm with an eraser until it looks like new and i'm done.

i like to run atleast one silver brush (+) because it does indeed help keep the comm healthier...atomic has the right idea with the z2.

2006.06.06, 08:22 PM
i notice a few steps are to clean the com or take the motor apart after you break it in... if you do this you are countermanding the entire break in process... lessening the effect, cuz your moving the brushes from the posission were they got broken in at... :)