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LBRC
2006.07.07, 06:07 PM
Custom Anodized 1/24 Tagu Conversion

http://lbspd.com/v-web/gallery/albums/album113/Anodized_Tagu_Parts.sized.jpg

Not just for looks the bumper and bottom plate have been hard anodized making them considerably more rigid than the soft stock aluminum which was prone to warping and bending.

Side Note: the 1/24th scale Tagu conversion is very stable and a blast to drive it's just a tad heavy in the turns so even though I like the look of the anodized aluminum I would love to try a laser cut CF bumper and bottom plate for actual racing.

El Tigre
2006.07.07, 07:04 PM
Looks great. My sister works for a plating company that does anodizing, I think I may get mine done in red or black. I havent gotten around to finishing mine, I have the stock servo wired to be used in aftermarket RX along with a Robitronic speedo. Heres a pic, soon it will have an TSR Porsche body, as soon as I get around to painting it up.

lfisminiz
2006.07.07, 08:32 PM
Nice jobs! :D

LBRC
2006.07.07, 09:16 PM
Inspired by the Lost Five-0 can art, the matching body has a long way to go, with luck eventually the whole car will have a noticeable resemblance to the can “%50 Juice / %100 Energy” :rolleyes:

nivlacs3z
2006.07.07, 11:07 PM
ohh man that looks hot... does it handle alot better then a regular 1/28th mr02?

arch2b
2006.07.07, 11:11 PM
looks nice ;)

LBRC
2006.07.08, 12:17 AM
ohh man that looks hot... does it handle alot better then a regular 1/28th mr02?
That would depend on what you mean by “handling” and where you where driving it. It’s larger than a “regular MR-02” the wheel base is 112 mm verses the 98 mm of a MM Enzo for example, that’s approx. a half inch longer and the wheel diameter is also much larger, 22mm front and 23.5 rear verses 17mm for a stock Mini-Z.

It is very stable and tracks incredibly straight even on a track with a less than perfect under surface like a large RCP track setup in a parking lot so you can get great lines but like I said above it’s heavy in the turns, especially when a 90 degree turn or more is required.

For example on a small technical track like a 2 wide-L RCP set up for HFAY it would not handle better in fact your lap times would be embarrassing, but on a larger track with sweeping turns or one with a rough uneven surface then you could say yes in some cases.

looks nice ;)
It is a good color choice ;) ;)

marc
2006.07.17, 10:04 AM
How come you didn't anodyze the wheels to match? That would finish it off nicely I think. That's just me. Perhaps you should order a couple more of Tagu's kit's and offer people custom anodyzing for it. Try a green one next!

LBRC
2006.07.17, 03:07 PM
1. You would have to see a nice set of Tagu wheels up close and personal to appreciate how good they look and the car looks with them.
2. The idea is to match the can and the wheels match the top.
3. Abomination!

arch2b
2006.07.17, 03:17 PM
it would be sacralidge to do anyting to the tagu wheels. it's like painting over a picasso....
i for one don't care for colored wheels. very few cars use them adn or pull it off well, the wrx being one of them.

lbrc, have you tried anodizing mini-z motor cans? i would love to have a few cans colored to match motor mounts.

saiyan
2006.07.17, 03:37 PM
Ya i like the idea of anodizing motor cans, that would be cool. :cool:

Slipstream
2006.07.17, 05:28 PM
I don't think you can anodize a steel motor can.

LBRC
2006.07.17, 06:12 PM
I don't think you can anodize a steel motor can.
Correct, it would have to be an aluminum motor can.

Hmm, machined aluminum motor housing (can and endbell). A little thick and bulky but would have superior heat dissipation and ball bearing alignment, with the added benefit of being able to choose the bearings, i.e. a certain set of high speed/temp ceramic bearings that I always thought would be great in a motor.

saiyan
2006.07.17, 11:35 PM
Correct, it would have to be an aluminum motor can.

Hmm, machined aluminum motor housing (can and endbell). A little thick and bulky but would have superior heat dissipation and ball bearing alignment, with the added benefit of being able to choose the bearings, i.e. a certain set of high speed/temp ceramic bearings that I always thought would be great in a motor.

I'm there with ya on that idea.

nivlacs3z
2006.07.18, 11:19 AM
hmm if ya ever do decide to get those things machined... I think alot of members including myself would be interested in a set.

cembom
2006.12.10, 09:47 PM
hey man lrbc could i send you aluminum parts and you plate them in a color for me its most likely xmod and mini z parts. can you give me some prices? also where can i find that conversion kit man?

LBRC
2006.12.10, 10:30 PM
Tagu 1/24 Mini-Z conversion link. (http://www.geocities.jp/wild_zracing/)

Good place to learn about DIY anodizing, and buy small quanties o chemicals. (http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html)

cembom
2006.12.11, 01:13 PM
thanks man i recomended it to a freind that wants to run a 280 brushless in an mr02 lol crazy right.

LBRC
2006.12.11, 05:12 PM
thanks man i recomended it to a freind that wants to run a 280 brushless in an mr02 lol crazy right.
Misguided and a bit impractical maybe but not crazy, I’ve been playing around with and working on motor mounts for a couple of smaller 1.5 mm shaft brushless motors. The trick is to push the limits of controllability without crossing over, and even better if you can squeeze out something that could be argued as at least a potential benefit, like nearly but not uncontrollable speed and power with longer runtimes.

There are any number of 130 (20 x 35mm) 2mm shaft brushless motors that can be bolted right on PN racing RM motor mounts without modification that still have more than enough power to shred your tires and/or flip the car at a feather light pull on the throttle.

Here's a fun link with a high torque Team Orion Elite coreless on a 6 cell MR-02. (http://ikinari-rc.com/mini-z/mr-02.html) Reading through Ikinari’s website can be a great help when venturing into extreme micro RC modifications.