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View Full Version : Drifting RWD Z's: a possible baseline.


color01
2007.01.20, 11:58 PM
I've been working to get my MR02 to drift for almost a year now, and now I've gotten far enough that I think I can publish my findings and help someone else out. I realize most MR01/015/02 owners would rather race than drift, but hey, there's gotta be someone out there who shares my interests.

Currently, my chassis looks like this:

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/5288/chassis0019wq.jpg

My own setup (biased heavily towards a looser tail) is as follows:

Front:
- Plastic drift tires, sanded/textured with rough-grit sandpaper
- Atomic DPS soft spring
- Stock knuckles, 0* camber
- 1* toe-out tierod
Rear:
- 55* slicks
- Ball differential, 43t spur, factory diff tension setting
- 39t handwound motor in ball-bearing can, 6t pinion
- FRP t-plate, hard spring
- Oil damper, 200wt oil, no spring

As noted above, my setup is biased heavily towards a loose tail, and on slippery surfaces like clean hardwood, the car is difficult to control. However, I usually drift on a marble floor, which has some degree of grip, and this is perfect for it. I've posted videos somewhere in this forum, or you can just go on Youtube and search for "MR02 drift". My car currently drifts at a slightly larger angle, but far more consistently now, almost equal to what I can do with an AWD. I have not managed to shoot any new video clips using the new setup.

A suitable baseline for most would be as follows:

Front:
- Plastic tires
- Standard soft springs
- 0* camber
- 0* toe
Rear:
- 50-60* slicks
- Ball differential
- Medium h/t-plate
- Oil damper

In general, some things can be said about RWD drift setups.

- The rear tires should have more grip than the fronts. It's just more consistent that way, the rear will come back more easily when you let off the throttle.
- Ball diff tightness has a significant bearing on understeer/oversteer characteristics, especially entry understeer/oversteer. The tighter the diff the more understeer. If the rear tires are significantly softer than the fronts and the diff is too tight, the car will never break rear traction.
- The rear longitudinal (up-down) damping should be adjusted to your likes, but roll (side-side) damping should be kept to a minimum, or none at all.
- The roll stiffness of the rear should be high. Corner entry has to be 100% consistent, so keeping roll resistance high ensures that the tail comes out at entry.
- An MM car will be easier to turn into the corner, but more difficult to hold the drift. An RM is just the opposite, and may require softer front tires and harder rears than an MM. Overall rear stiffness of an RM must be harder than an MM, to account for the weight distribution and polar moment of inertia.

Some of these points may be more obvious than others, but in general, that's what I think a RWD 1/28 needs in order to drift successfully. Hope it helps. :)

arch2b
2007.01.21, 12:32 AM
i'd love to see some video of a drifting mr-02;)

color01
2007.01.21, 02:17 AM
I still have these, from summer of last year; they do not reflect the state of the car at the moment. The car's gotten easier to handle, I swear, almost like an AWD, so I should be able to shoot longer clips from now on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nbW4FBIxhc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wU9RMHTyBEg

homestar21
2007.01.21, 12:55 PM
Where's the whole "drift bible" color? or did you exclude the xmod parts?
Shoot some new vids man!

color01
2007.01.21, 02:13 PM
I don't think I'm qualified to put the 'bible' here quite yet, as there are people on here who would totally kick my arse in RWD drifting. :D

But I'll get onto the vids as soon as I get a big chunk of time cleared up. Meanwhile, I changed my setup to deal with slippery hardwood floors (how come MZR only lets me edit posts the first few minutes after posting?).

Front:
- Plastic drift tires, sanded/textured with rough-grit sandpaper
- Stock MR02 springs, 1.2mm preload
- Stock knuckles, 0* camber
- Stock 0* toe-out tierod
Rear:
- 55* slicks
- Ball differential, 43t spur, slightly tighter than factory
- 39t handwound motor in ball-bearing can, 6t pinion
- FRP hard t-plate, no spring
- Oil damper, 200wt oil, no spring

I've changed my strategy almost completely (gone from soft front stiff rear, to stiff front soft rear), so we'll see how it goes.




Edit: marble floor was newly polished, so I took the car there for a spin.

Setup was updated with taller limiters and Kyosho hard (yellow) springs for the front end; the car feels pretty good now, off-throttle steering is great, don't have to get on the brakes to induce the slide anymore. However, I find that I have to let go of the throttle after entry sooner, and for a much longer time. I can't get on the throttle till about the apex of the corner. I'm not complaining, as this is a standard in racing, but I'm not used to it. I have much to learn about working with mod motors, and that's the first bit of data. :)

MidwestRacer10
2007.09.10, 03:35 PM
i know this is an old thread but i realy want to do this also and i have a couple questions for u color

what is the oil damper thing?

also what exactly is damper? does it have something to do with the suspension or the t plate or what? how do you adjust it?

MidwestRacer10
2007.09.10, 03:45 PM
o and one more thing. i would rather get a mm but the only ones i can find in stock are the 98mm mm. would a 98 be better or worse than a 94mm?