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arch2b
2007.02.19, 12:23 PM
Lacrosse BC-900 Alpha Power Battery Charger

-Works with all NiCd and NiMH “AA” and “AAA” Rechargeable Batteries
A-ll Modes Automatically Default to 200mA Charge (the optimal setting for prolonging battery life)
-Charge Both “AA” & “AAA” Rechargeable Batteries Simultaneously
-Overheat Detection to Protect Over-Charging
-Tons of Accessories Included
-Dimensions:
Charger: 3.0" x 5.1" x 1.5"

Features:

-Works with all NiCd and NiMH “AA” and “AAA” Rechargeable Batteries
-LCD shows capacity for each battery when charging is complete
-Charges AA & AAA rechargeable batteries simultaneously
-Will not charge defective batteries
-Select different charging current for each channel
-Automatically switches to trickle charge when charging is complete to ensure maximum battery capacity
-Automatically defaults to 200mA charge (the optimal setting for prolonging battery life)
-Overheat detection to protect over-charging
-7 Easy to Use Function Keys
-Charge Mode (charging current)
-Discharge Mode (discharging current)
-Refresh Mode (time elapsed)
-Test Mode (accumulated capacity)
-Included Accessories:

4-”AA” NiMH 1.2v Batteries
4-”AAA” NiMH 1.2v Batteries
Durable Nylon Travel Bag
AC Power Adapter
4-”C” Size Battery Adapters
4-”D” Size Battery Adapters

Specifications:

Charges Battery Types:
AA & AAA NiCd and NiMH

Input Voltage for AC/DC Adapter:
100-240 VAC

Charging Current Range:
200 mA - 1800 mA

manual (http://www.lacrossetechnology.com/900/manual.pdf)

http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/968/La_Crosse_BC-900.jpg

http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/968/La_Crosse_BC-900_Specifications.jpg

shuter
2007.02.19, 06:13 PM
The data I read listed the default charge rate at 200mA. Meaning that if you just put your batteries in the charger and do not program a charge rate for each battery it defaults to a 200 mA charge rate.

Can anyone who has one confirm or clarify this?

arch2b
2007.02.19, 06:22 PM
yes, if i place cells in and do not select a charge rate, it will charge at 200ma

rharris
2007.02.19, 10:29 PM
For you guys with the LaCrosse that swear by it...

What are you charging at?

1000 - charge? Seems to give the most volts (1.49v on my intelects)

And do you use the discharge/charge setting, or just charge for every day use?

Thanks

GrfxDan
2007.02.19, 10:45 PM
For you guys with the LaCrosse that swear by it...

What are you charging at?

1000 - charge? Seems to give the most volts (1.49v on my intelects)

And do you use the discharge/charge setting, or just charge for every day use?

Thanks

Good questions. I just got one of these chargers today along with some new batteries. I haven't used either yet. Is it safe to use the 1800mAh setting on AAA Intellects? That would be about 2C and should only take about 30 minutes, correct?

Any recommendations on conditioning new batteries?

shuter
2007.02.19, 11:07 PM
The most reliable and definative sources agree that the optimum charge rate for AA & AAA NiMH batteries is between .5C and 1C. Higher rates tend to get the batteries quite hot. Heat is the enemy and can cause perminant damage to your battery. I have had Intellect AAA batteries that got hot enough to bulge the flat negative end so it would no longer fit in my Mini-Z when charged on a Duracell 30 min. charger that produces a charge rate of 2C. Imagine the internal pressure necessary to bulge the end of the battery. Imagine the tiny internal seperators being distorted. Can't be good. The smaller the battery the more fragile it is and AAA batteries are pretty small.

GrfxDan
2007.02.19, 11:10 PM
The most reliable and definative sources agree that the optimum charge rate for AA & AAA NiMH batteries is between .5C and 1C. Higher rates tend to get the batteries quite hot. Heat is the enemy and can cause perminant damage to your battery. I have had Intellect AAA batteries that got hot enough to bulge the flat negative end so it would no longer fit in my Mini-Z when charged on a Duracell 30 min. charger that produces a charge rate of 2C. Imagine the internal pressure necessary to bulge the end of the battery. Imagine the tiny internal seperators being distorted. Can't be good. The smaller the battery the more fragile it is and AAA batteries are pretty small.

Thanks for the warning. I guess I'll stick to 1000mAh or less.

rharris
2007.02.20, 04:07 PM
Ok, so to put things into layman's terms...

For racing, I want punch. Punch = Volts rite? So the cell is rated at 1.2, I'm assuming that's an average because a dry cell is usually rated at 1.5.

I've read in other threads that the higher the charge rate the more punch. So I'm assuming that means the higher the charge rate, the more volts.

I've been playing with this charger for a few weeks now, my cells are all over the place. For the most part, my Intellects(rated at 1.2v and 750mAh) range from 1.49 all the way down to 1.33. The mAh goes from 880 down to 520, and volt output is not related to mAh ratings. So for example, I can have a cell show 1.38v with 800mah, and another cell with 1.49 and only 500mAh.

Two questions:

1. Is my assumption above correct, that punch comes from volts?
2. Is the charger accurate and my cells are this inconsistent? Or is the charger's meeter not all that accurate?

simpleskin
2007.02.20, 04:47 PM
I picked up one of these as well. I have been busy the last few weeks refreshing all of my batteries. Good stuff.

shuter
2007.02.20, 09:08 PM
Ok, so to put things into layman's terms...

For racing, I want punch. Punch = Volts rite? So the cell is rated at 1.2, I'm assuming that's an average because a dry cell is usually rated at 1.5.

I've read in other threads that the higher the charge rate the more punch. So I'm assuming that means the higher the charge rate, the more volts.

I've been playing with this charger for a few weeks now, my cells are all over the place. For the most part, my Intellects(rated at 1.2v and 750mAh) range from 1.49 all the way down to 1.33. The mAh goes from 880 down to 520, and volt output is not related to mAh ratings. So for example, I can have a cell show 1.38v with 800mah, and another cell with 1.49 and only 500mAh.

Two questions:

1. Is my assumption above correct, that punch comes from volts?
2. Is the charger accurate and my cells are this inconsistent? Or is the charger's meeter not all that accurate?

I just spent the last hour composing a reply but when I went to "preview post" my reply disappeared. Grrrrrrrr!!! I'll try again.


It is a very frustrating issue isn't it. I have been looking into battery performance issues for months now but have been unable to get definative answers to a number of questions, but I think we are getting closer. I'll share some things I've learned and some things I suspect here and ramble a bit for what it's worth.

I have found that authorities pretty much agree on the optimum charge rate for battery health and longevity is between .5C and 1C. There is endless real world data from commercial users, hospitals, military ect. proving it. The problem is that everything is directed at getting the longest reliable use out of the batteries. Many of us on the other hand would be willing to trade longevity for a bit more power short term..... It may be, that good battery health and maximum battery capacity will also yield the most punch. I don't know.

Our AAA's are rated at 1.2 Volts. It is common that new well formed/conditioned batteries will top off at 20% over the rating. I use intellects and Kodaks. They top out at between 1.43 - 1.49 Volts. About a dozen sets in all. Pretty consistant.

I don't think that the V. top off point is an indicator of performance/punch.

Charge rates above 1C can damage the cells by distorting the seperators which can even produce a short within the battery. The high charge rates can also increase the batteries internal resistance leading to restricted current flow. Even reduce the batteries capacity. These bad things can and will happen to our batteries if we charge at 2C or 3C. How can high rate charging produce more power when it causes so much damage to our batteries? Battery University.com has some great information about these issues in Part 2 BU31 & BU32. Take a look and let me know what you think.

If you are looking at the mAh displayed for each battery after charging they will vary because each battery may have had a different starting point. If these are old batteries, they may may be showing damage caused by overcharging or charging at a high C rate. If they are new batteries I can't explain it and would suspect the charger. On the MH-C9000 there is a discharge function that discharges the battery to 1V (99% depleted) and shuts off. Each batteries true capacity is saved on the display. Looking at the BC-900 there appears to be a similar function called "Accumulated capacity" that charges/discharges/recharges and saves the batteries capacity after discharge on the display for viewing. I don"t have one, let me know how that function works for you and how the batteries test out if you would.

THE GOOD NEWS

For the first time we now have chargers that can tell us about our batteries health and capacity!!!!! We can now start out with a few sets of new batteries, put them in sets and individually number them. If we charge each set at a different C rate, and monitor each batteries capacity, voltage ect. Over time we should be able to answer our own questions. I find this kind of exciting. How about you?

ChattavegasSE
2007.02.20, 09:18 PM
Very good information! I'm looking forward to putting one or two of these chargers in my pit box. :cool:

byebye
2007.02.21, 01:02 AM
I just recieved my BC-900 yesterday. It's no 15min charger so get that out of your head to start LOL. I found it a little confusing at first. The worst part is the wait........and wait.......and wait......and wait. For one set of batteries I put them in test mode. It took proabable 5 hours total and in the end it was still a little confusing because none of them said full. I assume that the reading at the end was what I was suppose to be paying attention to.

Now don't take this as a negative reply to the product. As shuter said "GOOD NEWS", I can now condition batteries and check total capacity and such. It may take a few days to do all my batteries but in the end I will know exactly how each battery is doing.

I think this is a must for those who race competatively and especially for those who plan on running endurance races.

So what's my plan for this little sucker? This one will stay home and the 15min chargers will stayin the pit box. I'll condition the batteries prior to race day and charge them on the 15min. charger at the track. I believe if I can make an old battery new a days worth of 15min. charging won't hurt.

Thanks for all the helpful info guys!

-Byebye

rharris
2007.02.21, 02:01 AM
byebye - If you want to use the BC-900 at the track, use the "Charge" mode. Set the rate at 1000. The charge will take around 30 min or less. Carry it around for bit in the pit box. Use it to test the volt output on your cells after you take them off the 15min charger.

shutter - volts = more punch. Read BatteryUniversity.com BU48. Awesome site for info by the way... thanks.

I read thru a ton of stuff out on that site. I'm glad I picked up this charger, it does things I didn't know I needed to do.

Here's the simple outline:

1. Deep cycle nickel-cadmium every 1 to 2 months and nickel-metal-hydride every 3 months. Discharge and recharge on the BC-900 should do the trick.
2. Do not discharge the battery before each recharge. This puts undue stress on the battery.
3. Charge your cells at whatever rate gives you the highest volts.
4. When the capacity drops below 20%, toss them in the trash.

Side bar... Ever wonder why people say IC3's have more punch? Test them. They come out of the charger hot at 1.53 Ten min later, they will be 1.46.

My $0.02... if you don't have a BC-900, or a MH-c9000, buy one. Just knowing what your cells are doing is a big eye opener. It's cheaper then a discharge tray, a charge tray, and an ICE ( a really cool charger by the way), and they are allot simpler to use. Less stuff in the pit box too.

And like spoon said... it's fun to tinker with this stuff.

shuter
2007.02.21, 02:19 AM
I just recieved my BC-900 yesterday. It's no 15min charger so get that out of your head to start LOL. I found it a little confusing at first. The worst part is the wait........and wait.......and wait......and wait. For one set of batteries I put them in test mode. It took proabable 5 hours total and in the end it was still a little confusing because none of them said full. I assume that the reading at the end was what I was suppose to be paying attention to.

Now don't take this as a negative reply to the product. As shuter said "GOOD NEWS", I can now condition batteries and check total capacity and such. It may take a few days to do all my batteries but in the end I will know exactly how each battery is doing.

I think this is a must for those who race competatively and especially for those who plan on running endurance races.



So what's my plan for this little sucker? This one will stay home and the 15min chargers will stayin the pit box. I'll condition the batteries prior to race day and charge them on the 15min. charger at the track. I believe if I can make an old battery new a days worth of 15min. charging won't hurt.

Thanks for all the helpful info guys!

-Byebye

HE HE You made me smile. I am currently forming some new batteries on a MH-C9000 using the break in function. It takes about 36 hours!!!! Glad it only has to be done once.

Would you consider taking a new set of batteries and forming/conditioning them and then charging them at a rate between .5C and 1C only and alternating them with your other race batteries to evaluate comparative power/punch? I would love to hear what you think of the results. If you are using them at least once every two weeks do not deep discharge them. Just charge, let them rest a half hour to stabilize and use. Race them them as many times as you want for up to three months and let us know the results.

byebye
2007.02.21, 02:23 AM
Thanks for the advice rharris. I'll consider bringing it. Only question though is on the charger itself it says to only use the ac/dc adapter that came with the charger. Will I be okay if I wire up 3v from my pitbox? In the states it's not a big deal but here I don't want to have to lug a transformer.

-Byebye

byebye
2007.02.21, 02:42 AM
HE HE You made me smile. I am currently forming some new batteries on a MH-C9000 using the break in function. It takes about 36 hours!!!! Glad it only has to be done once.

Would you consider taking a new set of batteries and forming/conditioning them and then charging them at a rate between .5C and 1C only and alternating them with your other race batteries to evaluate comparative power/punch? I would love to hear what you think of the results. If you are using them at least once every two weeks do not deep discharge them. Just charge, let them rest a half hour to stabilize and use. Race them them as many times as you want for up to three months and let us know the results.

I would consider doing this. I'm thinking that this time I'm going to start keeping a log.

I need to get a decent labeler as well. Without getting too off topic here I'm also going to start lebeling the batteries individually, not by set. Then match them up and keep that in the log.

It does seem like overkill but why not? All the data is there. The one thing I was really really afraid of at the 12hour race in Germany was a dead set of batteries or one or two low capacity batteries in the mix.

-Byebye

rharris
2007.02.21, 02:44 AM
Will I be OK if I wire up 3v from my pitbox? I don't see why not. The output on the adapter says 3v at 4amps. As long as you have 4amps (or more ) from your power supply...

shuter
2007.02.21, 02:54 AM
byebye - If you want to use the BC-900 at the track, use the "Charge" mode. Set the rate at 1000. The charge will take around 30 min or less. Carry it around for bit in the pit box. Use it to test the volt output on your cells after you take them off the 15min charger.

shutter - volts = more punch. Read BatteryUniversity.com BU48. Awesome site for info by the way... thanks.

I read thru a ton of stuff out on that site. I'm glad I picked up this charger, it does things I didn't know I needed to do.

Here's the simple outline:

1. Deep cycle nickel-cadmium every 1 to 2 months and nickel-metal-hydride every 3 months. Discharge and recharge on the BC-900 should do the trick.
2. Do not discharge the battery before each recharge. This puts undue stress on the battery.
3. Charge your cells at whatever rate gives you the highest volts.
4. When the capacity drops below 20%, toss them in the trash.

Side bar... Ever wonder why people say IC3's have more punch? Test them. They come out of the charger hot at 1.53 Ten min later, they will be 1.46.

My $0.02... if you don't have a BC-900, or a MH-c9000, buy one. Just knowing what your cells are doing is a big eye opener. It's cheaper then a discharge tray, a charge tray, and an ICE ( a really cool charger by the way), and they are allot simpler to use. Less stuff in the pit box too.

And like spoon said... it's fun to tinker with this stuff.

I had read BU48 about zapping but didn't make the connection about V=punch. I think you are right! Nice catch. However, there are other factors. Example: Battery A tops off at 1.5V, battery B tops off at 1.4V. Battery A has high internal resistence preventing maximum V flow rate, battery B has more punch. Will overall battery health may play a big part in attaining maximum power/punch? Maybe....Maybe not. It's going to be a lot of fun finding out now that we have the tools.

shuter
2007.02.21, 03:00 AM
I would consider doing this. I'm thinking that this time I'm going to start keeping a log.

I need to get a decent labeler as well. Without getting too off topic here I'm also going to start lebeling the batteries individually, not by set. Then match them up and keep that in the log.

It does seem like overkill but why not? All the data is there. The one thing I was really really afraid of at the 12hour race in Germany was a dead set of batteries or one or two low capacity batteries in the mix.

-Byebye

Me to on the log. Can't wait to hear the results.

rharris
2007.02.21, 03:08 AM
Would you consider taking a new set of batteries and forming/conditioning them and then charging them at a rate between .5C and 1C only and alternating them with your other race batteries to evaluate comparative power/punch?

Dude, I'm all over that. For selfish reasons, naturaly. I love the IC3, but it keeps letting me down. Nothing is worse then finding a dead cell 5min before your heat.

I'm pickiing up 3 new sets of intelects, 3 new sets of PN 800's, and 3 new sets of IC3's. I'll be monitoring volts and mah off the charger. For real world, I'll be running the time trial tracks and posting my best times on the HFAY site.

I'll let you know.

rharris
2007.02.21, 03:12 AM
Will I be okay if I wire up 3v from my pitbox?

You're going to hate this.... the MH-C9000 power adapter has a 12v output. It would be a strait hookup to a 12v/2amp power supply.

chalk one up for the C9000.

byebye
2007.02.23, 04:13 AM
Hey I've been using my charger and one thing I have a complaint about is after the batts are charged and I get the "FULL" indication it doesn't read out capacity in mah??????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????

So if I don't check it just before it's full(which varies) I won't know the actual capacity of the battery at that charge?

Any input?

-Byebye

Spoon
2007.02.23, 06:38 AM
I think you can hit the "display" button and it should tell you the capacity. It will only give you the real capacity if you do a discharge, refresh or test though. It need to drain the battery before it knows how much charge was put it it. Display should toggle through voltage, capacity and time.

GrfxDan
2007.02.23, 06:52 AM
I think you can hit the "display" button and it should tell you the capacity. It will only give you the real capacity if you do a discharge, refresh or test though. It need to drain the battery before it knows how much charge was put it it. Display should toggle through voltage, capacity and time.

Actually, if you hit the display button after fully charging the batteries it will only show the mAh that it's currently charging at (trickle charge). To find out the batteries full capacity you have to perform the test. None of the other modes will display the mAh capacity of the batteries, only the final voltage.

byebye
2007.02.23, 06:53 AM
I think you can hit the "display" button and it should tell you the capacity. It will only give you the real capacity if you do a discharge, refresh or test though. It need to drain the battery before it knows how much charge was put it it. Display should toggle through voltage, capacity and time.

Okay it does on the refresh test. But not after a normal charge.

I guess what I'll have to do is the refresh test for each battery then log that info and match the batts up accordingly.

So far though of the FRY's electronics batteries, Best Power, and Sanyos, only the sanyos have exceeded their rated capacity.

Fry's800mah=500-600mah
Best power 1000mah=600-700mah
Sanyos(over 1 year old)900mah=800-1100mah

The Best power are the cheapest at $1 per battery shipped while the Sanyo's were $2.50 each purchased in store at a shop in Stuttgart, Germany.

Between this evening and Sunday's Enduro at Stafford I'll be discharging and rechargin batteries and logging the capacities.

-Byebye

shuter
2007.02.23, 11:45 AM
Fry's800mah=500-600mah
Best power 1000mah=600-700mah
Sanyos(over 1 year old)900mah=800-1100mah

byebey - Wow! Your batteries vary wildly. Did you get those values after running the batteries through a conditioning cycle?

I have been running all of my used battery sets through the conditioning cycle or at least a refresh cycle and then logging the mAh and Volts for each battery which is now numbered. I'm not sure if the mAh value displayed will end up meaning anything since it is not the batteries true capacity but I'll keep a record of it for now. After conditioning I discharge and record the true mAh capacity of each battery, recharge and record the mAh and Volts again.

My Intellects that are over a year old and were initially charged on a Duracel 30 min charger run from a low of 682mAh to a high of 772mAh and average about 725 mAh. The final Voltage runs from a low of 1.41 to 1.46 with one anomoly rating of 1.19 Volt. (it's now in the trash can)

My Intellect battery sets that are about 6 months old and were conditioned before use on a MH-C801D charger and have always been charged at 700mAh. The true capacities run from 730mAh to 779mAh with an average of 755mAh. Final voltage runs from 1.43 to 1.45. Average 1.44 Voltage is especially consistant here.

I also have some Kodak 700 mAh battery sets that are about 6 months old, they were conditioned before use and have always been charged at 700mAh.
The true capacity ranges from a low of 693mAh to a high of 721mAh with an average of about 710mAh. Final voltages run from1.44 to 1.49 with an average of 1.46 Volts. Pretty impressive. Especially since they were only a dollar each. Interesting to note that they are a little shorter. I had to bend the battery contacts on my cars a little to assure good contact.

I'll be getting some new intellect sets to test as soon as the Shop has them back in stock. I can hardly wait.

GrfxDan
2007.03.10, 11:57 AM
Has anyone else had issues with their Lacrosse BC-900 not working? I got mine less than a month ago and it worked great for a couple weeks. Now when I put batteries in to be charged it acts like everything's fine initially but then it stops charging (ma goes down to 0) and just stays like that. I thought at first that it was the set of batteries but I've tried several sets and they all do the same thing whether I put in batteries that are completely dead or completely charged. I've let a set sit in there for about 3 hours this morning (at 700ma charging) and they don't get charged. The display shows it charging at 700ma for about a minute then it drops to 0 and never does anything else. The batteries stay cold - never even feel slightly lukewarm. I'm guessing my charger just quit on me. Anyone have any other ideas?

Oh yeah, it does the same thing when there are no batteries in it. Never shows "null" and never shows "FULL" whether there are batteries in the slot or not. I got a dud, right?

rharris
2007.03.10, 12:34 PM
Now when I put batteries in to be charged it acts like everything's fine initially but then it stops charging (ma goes down to 0) and just stays like that.

I bought two, one works great, the other one did the exact same thing (ma goes to 0).

It's got a one year warranty. I sent the bad one back and am waiting for the new one.

GrfxDan
2007.03.10, 12:45 PM
I bought two, one works great, the other one did the exact same thing (ma goes to 0).

It's got a one year warranty. I sent the bad one back and am waiting for the new one.

I wonder what percentage of them are defective like this. What's to say that it wouldn't do the same thing after the 1 year warranty has expired? I wonder if I should I try getting a refund instead and get another charger?

MINIz guy11
2007.03.10, 01:54 PM
My mah is going down to 0 sometimes too. Ive been using mine for a few months now and thought it wasnt a problem. I would just take then out and plug it in again and itll charge perfectly fine. Doesnt happen all the time though.

GrfxDan
2007.03.10, 02:03 PM
My mah is going down to 0 sometimes too. Ive been using mine for a few months now and thought it wasnt a problem. I would just take then out and plug it in again and itll charge perfectly fine. Doesnt happen all the time though.

Yeah, I tried unplugging it and plugging it back in but it just does the same thing. I've tried several times.

shuter
2007.03.10, 03:33 PM
I wonder what percentage of them are defective like this. What's to say that it wouldn't do the same thing after the 1 year warranty has expired? I wonder if I should I try getting a refund instead and get another charger?

Sorry to hear of your problems with your Lacrosse charger. It appears you are not alone. Did you buy it at Thomas Distributing? If so, I recommend exchanging it for the MH-C9000. It a much higher quality charger IMO and is only $13.00 more. Or do what I did and get a MH-C801D as well. I think it uses the same internal circutry as the C9000 since it was introduced only three weeks earlier. It takes about 48 hours to complete the conditioning cycle which is about the same as the C-9000. It accepts 8 batteries, charges at 700 mAh (right where I want to be) and has a small footprint for an 8 cell charger. It is also simple to use. Just snap the batteries into the slots and it charges them automatically at 700mAh with no programming. A nice feature for the hectic environment on raceday. It is what I use for races. It will not read the batteries capacity though. After conditioning, I drop the batteries into the C-9000 and run a discharge/recharge that gives me the true capacity for racord keeping purposes.

arch2b
2007.03.10, 06:47 PM
always verify you are buying the v33 bc-900 as well.

please see the thread for the mh-c9000 as shutter has provided some good feedback there.

Spoon
2007.03.19, 02:51 PM
It's on sale again. Amazon has it for $35. That's the best price I have seen in a year. It also ships free.

Note: Amazon has a price guarantee so if you've purchased it recently they may match the current price.

http://www.amazon.com/LaCrosse-Technology-BC-900-AlphaPower-Battery/dp/B00077AA5Q/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/104-2360621-9134319?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1174333767&sr=8-1

wsaenotsock
2007.03.19, 03:51 PM
I charged a brand new set of Intellects at 1 amp and two of them leaked fluid down into the charger. Those two slots stopped working and would continue to say charging when no battery was in it. I sprayed some electrical cleaning spray down into it top slots real good and put it on a pit fan to dry. It started working again after that.

soyverde
2007.03.19, 05:07 PM
It's on sale again. Amazon has it for $35. That's the best price I have seen in a year. It also ships free.

Note: Amazon has a price guarantee so if you've purchased it recently they may match the current price.

http://www.amazon.com/LaCrosse-Technology-BC-900-AlphaPower-Battery/dp/B00077AA5Q/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/104-2360621-9134319?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1174333767&sr=8-1

You are the man, spoon! I never knew about that guarantee (TheRinger will be happy to get $5 back, I'm sure).

Spoon
2007.03.19, 08:53 PM
You are the man, spoon! I never knew about that guarantee (TheRinger will be happy to get $5 back, I'm sure).

"the man" I like that better than my previous name ;) I am glad to help out. I was pretty stoked to get my cash back!

soulstice
2007.03.29, 04:23 PM
always verify you are buying the v33 bc-900 as well.

please see the thread for the mh-c9000 as shutter has provided some good feedback there.


Why is the v33 important? Mine says V12U on the bottom.

soulstice
2007.03.29, 04:30 PM
Why is the v33 important? Mine says V12U on the bottom.

Ok upon further research i figured out that the version number displays when you first plug it in on the right side of the display.

short
2007.03.29, 04:51 PM
is anyone running theirs off a power supply not the big ugly wall thing that comes with it instructions say not to just wondering dont want to carry those around

jaank
2007.09.22, 03:29 PM
Buy or not is my question.Are this good charger?

Sorry,but my bad english.I am from Estonian.

Tjay
2007.10.24, 06:25 PM
I'm happy with it.....GOOD!