PDA

View Full Version : Setting up the MR15 for race


marc
2007.03.01, 07:28 PM
Hello. Is setting up the MR15 any different than setting up the MR01's and MR02's? Or being the fact that the MR15 is a combination of both, it doesn't need much?
Anyway, on my Mini Cooper, I've got plus one degree toe, and plus one degree camber. I honestly can't tell if it handles better or not than stock. Would need another stock Mini Cooper alongside with me to compare.
However, my times were a tad better, so I guess it helped.

benmlee
2007.03.01, 09:11 PM
Hello. Is setting up the MR15 any different than setting up the MR01's and MR02's? Or being the fact that the MR15 is a combination of both, it doesn't need much?
Anyway, on my Mini Cooper, I've got plus one degree toe, and plus one degree camber. I honestly can't tell if it handles better or not than stock. Would need another stock Mini Cooper alongside with me to compare.
However, my times were a tad better, so I guess it helped.

The MR015 has a vertical stacked battery, so it leans more in turns. I found that using 3deg camber gave an even tire wear and good traction. Use the most stiff rear T bar and stiff springs up front.

marc
2007.03.01, 09:23 PM
I'll try the stiff T-bars soon. Meanwhile I just spent my money on Micro-T alloy so it'll be a while before I can do more Mini-Z stuff. Thank you for the suggestions. On my Cooper, I've also added a GPM differential and honestly can't tell if it helped or not, but does seem slipperier around turns. Do I need to adjust the diff or what? I do notice that when you first open the package, the diff seems very loose.

benmlee
2007.03.01, 11:08 PM
I've also added a GPM differential and honestly can't tell if it helped or not, but does seem slipperier around turns. Do I need to adjust the diff or what? I do notice that when you first open the package, the diff seems very loose.

You definitely adjust the diff on first use. There are posts on how to do it. I tighten it up until it does not slip with full throttle acceleration. If is too loose, you will wear out the balls. If too tight, it won't be smooth. Also make sure there is grease on the diff. It usually comes with grease from the factory, but just in case. You are suppose to use some ball diff grease. Guess regular grease will work too in a pinch.

EMU
2007.03.02, 04:22 PM
Generally the body you choose will dictate how you need to setup the car. Even then, one persons setup for a particular body may not be good for you even on the same track.

Typically, I use AWD lowering springs in the front with the shortest travel limiter. I usually use the medium or hard springs. If the wheels hit the body, I will shim the spring or limiter to raise the ride height so that the wheels do not hit the body. I prefer lowering the front end this way rather than using a shim under the knuckle which increases resistance on the steering and increases front end hop from the preload.

I typically set my MR015's to push a little, and use tire compounds that will keep the car from flipping when I push it. On the track that I race, the 3Racing 10d Narrow V-tread tires work best with most of my 015 setups. On an 02, I usually run 20d Kyosho slicks, 30d Kyosho radial or 18d PN slicks in the front, but on an 015 this will cause major traction rolling issues.

On the 015 chassis I like to have motors that have low roll resistance. X-Speed or even the stock Kyosho armature in a BB can (with ferrite magnets, not Neos). This will allow you to carry speed through the turn, and not decelerate as much when you let off throttle. I find that this also reduces traction rolling, where if you use a motor with high roll resistance you will traction roll more.

I use stock knuckles in my 015's, tried 1 and 2 deg but it felt like it hurt more than it helped. I also use the stock tie rod on most of my 015's. On one I have a 1deg toe in, but I dont think it is necessary. The more toe in you have, the more resistance you will have, meaning slower speeds (especially if you are using a stock motor).

SaiTam
2007.03.02, 08:32 PM
If you are using RM on MR015 I prefer 90mm setting than 94mm. It will be much more responsive this way.

EMU
2007.03.02, 08:45 PM
If you are using RM on MR015 I prefer 90mm setting than 94mm. It will be much more responsive this way.
I agree. My favorite body right now is the LP400 (Countach) for the 90mm setup. On the 94mm setting, using an Atomic 94mm MM mount, is the Fairlady Z :D Both of these cars are close to the same weight and performance.

marc
2007.03.02, 09:53 PM
Well, you all know I'm useing the Mini Cooper body on my MR15 as I think the HM would handle best. Plus I just love the Mini's!
I also think it's all personal taste as to how you set it up really.

EMU
2007.03.02, 10:32 PM
Well, you all know I'm useing the Mini Cooper body on my MR15 as I think the HM would handle best. Plus I just love the Mini's!
I also think it's all personal taste as to how you set it up really.
The Mini-Cooper is a very nice handling body, I had one setup on an Mr015 for a little while. A little while ago I swapped the body to an MR01 so that I could use the 015 chassis for the Fairlady body.

What track surface are you running? You can run -1mm wide rear wheels (or 0mm wide if you ream out the inside of the rear wheel wells). My current setup uses +1.5mm narrow wheels in the rear with 0mm wheels in the front (on an 015 I used +1mm wheels on the front, but without a servo saver I wont do that on an Mr01). I use 8d GPM tires in the rear with 3racing v-tread in the front. If I push it too hard it will flip, but I really have to push it. I have 1d camber and 1d toe in. I am still using the MR015 HM with stock rear shock and medium MM t-plate (kyosho). Front springs are #3 Atomic AWD lowdowns.

The Cooper is one fun body to drive, and is surprisingly stable and agile. I did a weight reduction to the body by removing the top part of the window piece that is not seen, which allows slightly faster turns since there is less mass on top to cause you to roll.

TheRinger
2007.03.03, 05:35 PM
I just got an mr015 and have only tried the porcshe 934 and gt3 bodies with +2 offset wheels front and rear and slight toe in and like the results. I put on 1 degree knuckles but have not had a chance to try them yet. I only used my mini cooper on my awd, mr01, and mr02 and it worked the best on the mr02. But as the saying goes different strokes for different folks.

FrankW1029
2007.03.05, 04:56 PM
i just avoid narrow bodies. i have the Jota on my mr01 and the 612 scag on the mr015. no flips and more fun imo because it's more dramatic in the body roll. lol

EMU
2007.03.06, 12:08 AM
Ive been using the 350z fairlady with an MM setup, as weill as an RM Audi TT and RM LP400S all which almost never flip (unless I am in a collission). I have been running 1st or 2nd in every race that I have been in with the 015. The width isnt much of an issue, the length is more of the issue that I find when I run narrow bodies. They have to be short as well. I prefer 90mm RM bodies over 94mm RM. With the 94mm bodies you can run MM setups though... which make it run good as well.

Making them wide makes them much more sluggish. The most offsets that I run on an 015 is 1N/1W. I dont like to run much wider than that.

TheRinger
2007.05.01, 09:53 PM
I do have to agree with U on that EMU, I ran my mr015 with a gt3 body and 1N/1W and it runs great. But I have been recently running an 935 body with 575GTC wheels which are 2.5+ fronts and 3+ rears and I like it so far.

EMU
2007.05.02, 03:09 AM
I ran the 935 for some time with the stock offsets, but it felt a little too sluggish entering the corners. I preferred running 1N/2W to the stock wheels. Even with tires that had less grip than what I could run with the stock offsets, the car provided better laptimes. (30d front tires compared to 20d with the stock offsets).

hrdrvr
2007.05.02, 09:44 AM
Im running the 934 right now with 1.0n/1.0w. It handles great with 0 toe and 0 camber. I also run 30s in the front and like the response I get with it now.

herman
2007.05.02, 10:49 PM
I do have to agree with U on that EMU, I ran my mr015 with a gt3 body and 1N/1W and it runs great. But I have been recently running an 935 body with 575GTC wheels which are 2.5+ fronts and 3+ rears and I like it so far.

any pics :D

TheRinger
2007.05.03, 09:13 PM
any pics :D
Nope I do not have a camra to take pics with yet.

TheRinger
2007.05.03, 09:28 PM
I ran the 935 for some time with the stock offsets, but it felt a little too sluggish entering the corners. I preferred running 1N/2W to the stock wheels. Even with tires that had less grip than what I could run with the stock offsets, the car provided better laptimes. (30d front tires compared to 20d with the stock offsets).
The 575gtc stock wheels are the same offset as the 935 stock wheels offset its because I got a white body 935 and the 575gtc wheels look awesome with it. I actually been running 30 degree kyosho radials front and rear with this set up and it pushes a little but its easy to drive. I've tried running 30's in front and 20's in then rear and atleast to me it had too much push but I guess I'll give it another try, seems like everyone is having good luck with that tire choice, maybe it was the way that I have the suspension set up. How do U got your suspension set up EMU?

TheRinger
2007.08.27, 08:13 PM
As weird as it sounds I put a enzo body on a mr015 with 3.5n wheels in front and 3.0w wheels in the rear and it works awesome. Has quick steering response and never flips.

aimfox
2007.09.03, 02:28 PM
use 94MM for racing. it's more better for the speed

Hekyl
2008.12.02, 10:43 AM
I've been slowly migrating cars to longer setups (96mm and 98mm). Seems to work much better in mid-larger tracks. 94mm was great back in it's day but for now I'll stick with longer wheelbases.

flat 4
2008.12.02, 04:38 PM
Im running the 934 right now with 1.0n/1.0w. It handles great with 0 toe and 0 camber. I also run 30s in the front and like the response I get with it now.

Are you still runing this set-up, Its the sme one I have on mine.