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lfisminiz
2007.03.21, 08:41 PM
Just got an F-1 last week. Got it going pretty good. The only problem i got is turning right hand turns...real good. Turning left hand turns...rear wants to spin out. Have it better, but on power comming out of turns, it wiggles. If i go the slightest bit easy comming out, its ok. Tried stock motor pod, alum motor pod, stock side plates, carbon side plates (better), stock diff, atomic ball diff, etc...any ideas? Thanks.

imxlr8ed
2007.03.21, 09:54 PM
I can only say that my method for correcting that is not the most popular... but it's been working for me for a while now. I usually try to loosen the plates (turn out the fwd screws a one or two turns), I also run without the middle screws. (but I think I'm the only one in my club who does.) It's sloppy as hell, but it works for me.

I'm guessing you have 30s up front and 20s in the rear... I think that's 75% of tuning an F1 for an RCP. Make sure your front end isn't binding anywhere, and make sure your diff isn't too tight. (I switched back to stock a while ago) I used to run my ball diff right at the point of having power whine. I'm sure we'll get it straightened out Sunday for you.

Oh... make sure your wires are clear of the body, and they have a little slack between the board and the mount plate. (might not be an issue for you, with an aftermarket mount though) And also make sure your fwd motor capacitor isn't hitting the corner of the chassis.

cowboysir
2007.03.21, 09:56 PM
There was a thread around here recently about the main plastic of the chassis being tweaked a bit...thoughts on that?

My thoughts are:

Diff setting
spring loads of rear suspension
equal flex of attachment plates(can't remember exactly what they are called)

I know I haven't really helped...my F1's don't get much running time so I couldn't tell you if I've got similar experiences.

Spoon
2007.03.21, 10:45 PM
I can only say that my method for correcting that is not the most popular... but it's been working for me for a while now. I usually try to loosen the plates (turn out the fwd screws a one or two turns), I also run without the middle screws. (but I think I'm the only one in my club who does.) It's sloppy as hell, but it works for me.

I'm guessing you have 30s up front and 20s in the rear... I think that's 75% of tuning an F1 for an RCP. Make sure your front end isn't binding anywhere, and make sure your diff isn't too tight. (I switched back to stock a while ago) I used to run my ball diff right at the point of having power whine. I'm sure we'll get it straightened out Sunday for you.

Oh... make sure your wires are clear of the body, and they have a little slack between the board and the mount plate. (might not be an issue for you, with an aftermarket mount though) And also make sure your fwd motor capacitor isn't hitting the corner of the chassis.

Listen to imx. His method is sloppy but it works. I have been using it since we met at the DOW gtg last year. He'll get you setup.

EMU
2007.03.21, 11:22 PM
Sai has been helping me setup my F1 a little. He says that when you spin more one direction loosen the plate screws for the same side. Odds are that the inside rear wheel lifts a little and unloads the diff causing a spin.

He also does not recommend that the middle screw is removed, since this will make the rear end jiggle a little more, and eventually the chassis will be damaged much faster than it would be with the screw in.

I have thought about taking the original kingpin and cutting it down to the length of the side plate screw... threading the tip of it, and screwing it in so that it will keep the side plate straight, and allow it to travel smooth on the pin.

I find that my steering is more sloppy with the middle side screws out. I leave them in, but fairly loose... which led me to the idea above.

In one of my F1's I have shimmed the front screw a little, with the middle loosened a little... but have yet to try it out.

Also make sure that the differential is not too tight against the motormount.

bolter9
2007.03.22, 11:01 AM
I'd definitely check for binding somewhere.

Typically chassis tweak results in more understeer in one direction. If the rear is spinning out, then that leads me to believe that something is too tight and or binding.

rkk
2007.03.22, 11:21 AM
Let me start by saying I am in no way shape of form an F1 expert. That being said, I had the same issue and thought it was chassis tweak, but after going through the car I found my motor spacer (adjust for different pinions) was cracked. I replaced it and the problem was solved. Just something to check.

imxlr8ed
2007.03.22, 04:29 PM
Store your chassis the wrong way (like smashed into a box on a hot summer day in your car), and you'll experience chassis tweak. Good to have a very flat surface to check it out. With Larry's case being tuning a new chassis, I would deem it the least likely culprit. (but... as always, anything goes)

lfisminiz
2007.03.22, 08:52 PM
Thanks again. Ill have to check a few things out from what i read so far.

michvin
2007.03.22, 11:50 PM
also you might want to examine the front fender (the one under the front wing) for road surface rubbing. I cut it's mounting posts a little (1-1.5 mm) to keep it off the ground. Binding of the front springs on the knuckles was a huge issue in my F1 car - i cured it by replacing the nukcles with aluminum from PN i think.

ruf
2007.08.09, 11:01 PM
Atomic disk damper fixes this most of the time. I don't like running the center screw loose because it lets the rear pod float. This makes the locating posts more susceptible to breakage and the rear pod doesn't locate as consistently.