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View Full Version : Ask The Surgeon! - Need tech advice?


motospyder
2007.04.13, 08:04 PM
Hello, I am motospyder, the Mini - Z Surgeon. I have been racing / modifying Mini Z's for 5 years. If you have any questions, or if you are new to the old school MR-01 Mini Z and just have a general question, you are on the right thread!

Ask away!

TALLGEESE
2007.04.16, 05:27 PM
Motospyder, maybe you can help me out, I was racing my MR-01 yesterday and my car was doing great until I noticed I seemed to be getting intermittent glitching coming from my steering servo.. I know that this is a common problem w/older mini-z's but I pressed on because the problem wasn't serious enough to stop running. About 5 or so minutes after I noticed the glitching in my steering it stopped altogether, now I can only get my steering servo to work when I give the car Medium to Full throttle.. I don't think I've broken any servo gears so I figured I would ask you you're opinion, any help would be appreciated...

motospyder
2007.04.16, 09:51 PM
Motospyder, maybe you can help me out, I was racing my MR-01 yesterday and my car was doing great until I noticed I seemed to be getting intermittent glitching coming from my steering servo.. I know that this is a common problem w/older mini-z's but I pressed on because the problem wasn't serious enough to stop running. About 5 or so minutes after I noticed the glitching in my steering it stopped altogether, now I can only get my steering servo to work when I give the car Medium to Full throttle.. I don't think I've broken any servo gears so I figured I would ask you you're opinion, any help would be appreciated...

My advice to you would be to start easy. First, make sure there are no interfering devices near where you are running, make sure that the batteries in the control are at full strength. If that doesnt remedy the situation, try checking the wire connections to and from your servo motor. Also make sure that your reception antenna is firmly soldered on to the board. Sometimes if my reception isnt right I try aiming the control antenna at the car while im running it. Has this happened to you consistently? If so, then you can pass it off as interference. If this is new, check the things I told you to check. Also, make sure to investigate the position of your steering trim. But as you stated, this is a typical problem with some of the older MR-01's. I bought mine in 2002!

TALLGEESE
2007.04.17, 04:34 PM
It's Fixed!!! :D :D Thanks for the help Motospyder, it turned out to be that the red positive power wire going to the steering servo was hangin on by just a thread... When I took the steering servo case apart the wire came off the motor, so I resoldered it on and even added a little extra solder to be safe. Another thing I noticed was that before I took the servo case apart I could see that the same red positive power wire was pinched in between the 2 halves of the servo case instead of following the other servo wire leads, almost smashing the power wire completely flat, which probably did'nt help either... Once again I'd like to say thanks!! my old-school MR-01 is running again!!

motospyder
2007.04.24, 11:32 PM
Cmon now, Im sure there are more MR-01 Drivers looking for help! Please dont be shy!

Spyder

mk2kompressor
2007.04.25, 07:22 PM
how do i stop it from rolling over?
any setup tips?

motospyder
2007.04.25, 09:01 PM
how do i stop it from rolling over?
any setup tips?

Your MR-01 is rolling over? You must be driving it on some very high traction terrain in that case. The mini z's extremely low center of gravity alone should be enough to keep it from rolling over... Perhaps softer suspension would be in your best interests. I myself like to use very soft suspension parts, such as very flexible and narrow carbon fiber H bars, and soft springs in the front. As for setup, I suggest using your z's maximum extension length as dictated by the positioning of the pegs your H bar connects to. Longer cars handle better at higher speeds.

Blackno3
2007.04.28, 12:56 AM
Darin we are racing (a small group) but only with the CP CUP CAR F1 kits for now. I may be able to come up with a car for you to race with us. Just send a email, you know were to email me at just click the link by my signature.

HammerZ
2007.04.28, 08:52 PM
There are a few threads on this one, I just wanted to add something here. What is your view on these?

One such thread

Can you use an MR02 diff on an MR01? and what is different between the two diffs?

How about the motor mounts? will they mount without any problems and will the diff work? how does the MR01f rear mount differ from the original mount, or the MR02 RM mount?

And finally, is there any performance gains by doing so? will it make the car feel more planted to the track?

These are just a few questions that was brought up. This way you have the info in one place.

TALLGEESE
2007.04.30, 01:10 AM
Can you use an MR02 diff on an MR01? and what is different between the two diffs?


And finally, is there any performance gains by doing so? will it make the car feel more planted to the track?


What's up, the Mr-01 differential/rear axle is shorter than the Mr-02's.. You can use the Mr-02 rear motor pod on the Mr-01 for a wider stance/wheelbase for better handling...Not only that, but the Mr-02's motor pod lays flat, compared to the Mr-01's which has a slight kick-up to it... My Mr-01 would traction-roll all the time on a RCP Track before I switched to a Mr-02 rear motor pod and Ferrari 360 Modena wheels/body... For the Mr-01 wider is better, worked for me... I hope this helps...

HammerZ
2007.04.30, 04:38 AM
Just a handfull of questions that I have seen. Mostly about part swapping and improving the MR01 chassis. That other thread I linked to I posted a picture that shows the difference in the MR01 and MR015 stock diff. I just need to take shots of the motor mounts, it's just hard to show the differences with all of them black. Getting all the ones together to do pictures is tough as well. Just to help some of the new guys out, with what works and what don't. You can get some life out of the MR01 with a few MR02 parts.

My F40 MR01 with the MR01F rear mount with the MR02 diff feels more planted than the original stock mount setup for sure. A night and day difference in handling. With the old setup the inside rear lifted and caused the car to jump around quite a bit. I never knew where it would be comming out of the turn. The tiny 3mm drop of the motor cured the tire lift problem, with the car feeling more "nailed to the track" on turns.

*How about the motor mounts? will they mount without any problems and will the diff work? how does the MR01f rear mount differ from the original mount, or the MR02 RM mount?*

This is the one that I have read most. The MR01F and MR02RM is very close to the same thing. Just the MR02RM set has the H plate that don't fit the MR01. That one is about $1 less than the MR01F set the last I looked.

EMU
2007.05.01, 01:51 PM
The MR01F mount and the MR02 RM mount are exactly the same. There is an adapter that comes with the MR01F to allow it to use the original MR01 suspension that mounts to the middle hole. The T-plate holes are the same on the motormount side, but different on the chassis side, so the MR02/015 t-plates cannot be used, MR01 H-plates have to be used.

As stated in the diff thread, the width of the wheels on the MR01 diff is exactly the same as the MR02 diff. The difference is the offset of the spur gear. the shaft is longer on the MR02 where it goes through the motormount (spur gear is thinner). The MR02 diff has a little trouble running -1mm wheels, while the MR01 diff can easily fit them. I have had to shave down my -1mm wide rear wheels to fit an MR02 RM pod without hitting the spur/pinion (pinion is more of an issue).

motospyder
2007.05.02, 07:53 PM
Im really not sure, Honestly my area of expertise lies simply in the MR01 and its many quirks. Ive never driven a 2.

Spyder

JurgenS
2007.05.15, 03:12 PM
Hi Surgeon,

I'm total new with Mini Z and I bought myself a used but nearly new MR-01. It's the Loctite Honda NSX (A good handeling body??). The previous owner putted an Xspeed engine and other springs on it. Also ballbearing and alloy wheels and nuts. Is there something else what I should change or buy to use my Mini Z for racing on a track?

I also bought 3 sets of 4 AAA batteries GP 1000mA for the car and 2 sets of 4 AA batteries GP 2700mA for the controller. Is this a good choice?

Best regards,

JurgenS

motospyder
2007.05.15, 09:36 PM
Typically the batteries with a lower mAh rating will discharge faster and give you better acceleration power. milliamp hours is the amount of time the battery will run. A higher milliamp rating means the battery will run for a longer time, but a lower one means that the battery will dump its power faster. I like the 700 mAh batteries myself, in a NiMh (Nickel metal hydride). Also, as for upgrade parts, look in to some carbon fiber H bars and a new steering set if it still has the stock one. There are some really good steering parts sets that hold up better than the stock equipment. I have a set on my Z that is difficult to explain, but it is red in color and available on many online shops. there are 3 different tie rods that you can use to adjust your toe in. I also like to get custom pinion gears that have more teeth than the pinion gears that come with the Mini Z set. That way you have a higher top end speed if you are going to race around a longer track.

Spyder

EMU
2007.05.15, 10:41 PM
Typically the batteries with a lower mAh rating will discharge faster and give you better acceleration power. milliamp hours is the amount of time the battery will run. A higher milliamp rating means the battery will run for a longer time, but a lower one means that the battery will dump its power faster. I like the 700 mAh batteries myself, in a NiMh (Nickel metal hydride). Also, as for upgrade parts, look in to some carbon fiber H bars and a new steering set if it still has the stock one. There are some really good steering parts sets that hold up better than the stock equipment. I have a set on my Z that is difficult to explain, but it is red in color and available on many online shops. there are 3 different tie rods that you can use to adjust your toe in. I also like to get custom pinion gears that have more teeth than the pinion gears that come with the Mini Z set. That way you have a higher top end speed if you are going to race around a longer track.

Spyder
I used to think about batteries in a similar fashion... however, this is not true. Just because a battery is rated at a higher "mah" (1000) does not mean that it will have less punch than a lower mah rating (750). Typically the lower mah cells may have a little more puch for the first minute or so, but after that they tend to run flat and dont have as much consistancy as a higher mah cell.

One of the key things to look for is internal resistance, this will have much more relevance than an mah rating. I have seen people very pleased with the 1000mah GPs. I love my Duracell 1000's, and mainly run Atomic Mods 900mah cells for my racing. My intellect 750s are a little more punch in the start of the heats, but towards the end of the runs I can feel them slowing down considerably compared to my 1000s or 900s.

Generally, higher mah cells can discharge at a higher rate than lower mah cells. This is seen much more with larger scale cars. My IB4200 cells are MUCH faster than my IB3000 packs. Some people are very picky about their batteries, I think that as long as you are not running a modified car, just about any 700mah+ quality cell should do well. Since you have already bought your batteries, I wouldnt bother getting more until these start to run flat. I usually renew my batteries every six months or so... rather than weeding through the cells to find the bad ones. I prefer a more consistant cell than a very punchy one that drops off early. I have found that the Intellect cells will have good punch for about 5 minutes, then they will start to run flat with much less punch for about 10-15 more minutes before they dump.

I would also avoid using a 15 minute charger regularly... these charge the cells way above the amperage that they should be exposed to for such frequent cycles. If you charge the batteries once in a while on a 15 minute charger then its fine, but every cycle.... the cells wont last too long. I prefer 30 minute chargers.

I would look for a carbon H-plate set, MR02 RM motorpod with Kyosho RM disc damper or 3Racing disc damper should complete the rear suspension.

JurgenS
2007.05.17, 09:46 AM
I'm using the GP PowerBank V600D charger. I was told that this was one of the better chargers.

Is there a difference between the Kyosho parts and other brands beside the price and looks?

JurgenS
2007.05.23, 03:49 PM
Today, when driving my Z it sudenly starts steering by it selff. When driving on a staight sudenly it goes left or right and accelerate powerfull or halt.
What might cause this behavior? I allready changed my cristals, but no change noticable.

motospyder
2007.07.10, 07:38 PM
Today, when driving my Z it sudenly starts steering by it selff. When driving on a staight sudenly it goes left or right and accelerate powerfull or halt.
What might cause this behavior? I allready changed my cristals, but no change noticable.


Again, this sounds like the problem that the first poster made. Make sure to check out your potentiometer, and also the connections to and from it.

Spyder

motospyder
2007.07.17, 11:34 PM
I used to think about batteries in a similar fashion... however, this is not true. Just because a battery is rated at a higher "mah" (1000) does not mean that it will have less punch than a lower mah rating (750). Typically the lower mah cells may have a little more puch for the first minute or so, but after that they tend to run flat and dont have as much consistancy as a higher mah cell.

One of the key things to look for is internal resistance, this will have much more relevance than an mah rating. I have seen people very pleased with the 1000mah GPs. I love my Duracell 1000's, and mainly run Atomic Mods 900mah cells for my racing. My intellect 750s are a little more punch in the start of the heats, but towards the end of the runs I can feel them slowing down considerably compared to my 1000s or 900s.

Generally, higher mah cells can discharge at a higher rate than lower mah cells. This is seen much more with larger scale cars. My IB4200 cells are MUCH faster than my IB3000 packs. Some people are very picky about their batteries, I think that as long as you are not running a modified car, just about any 700mah+ quality cell should do well. Since you have already bought your batteries, I wouldnt bother getting more until these start to run flat. I usually renew my batteries every six months or so... rather than weeding through the cells to find the bad ones. I prefer a more consistant cell than a very punchy one that drops off early. I have found that the Intellect cells will have good punch for about 5 minutes, then they will start to run flat with much less punch for about 10-15 more minutes before they dump.

I would also avoid using a 15 minute charger regularly... these charge the cells way above the amperage that they should be exposed to for such frequent cycles. If you charge the batteries once in a while on a 15 minute charger then its fine, but every cycle.... the cells wont last too long. I prefer 30 minute chargers.

I would look for a carbon H-plate set, MR02 RM motorpod with Kyosho RM disc damper or 3Racing disc damper should complete the rear suspension.

Thank you for proving my point. I never said that higher MAH batteries were better for initial power.

Spyder

HammerZ
2007.07.18, 01:04 AM
Is there a difference between the Kyosho parts and other brands beside the price and looks?

Now this is a tough million dollar question.

I know from the early days parts like Megatech and Powerline the quality was rough. The Megatech diff that I have will only fit the Megatech alloy motor mount. I think Megatech got there stuff from GPM, and sold it with there name. With a markup in price, later dropped the price.

The Powerline diff, I fought it every step of the way.

I think the newer parts are better quality nowdays. And they fit better as well.

The best part with the Kyosho parts, is you know that they will fit. Just keep in mind that the MR01 and MR02 diff's are different, with the tighter gear pack on the MR02 diff.

jeff
2007.08.10, 12:22 PM
can you use lithiums in the mr-01?

BobT
2007.08.23, 04:01 PM
can you use lithiums in the mr-01?

If you run a single cell yes. The PC board in the MR-01 was made for 4.8 volts and not much more. Running a 2 cell (7.4v) Li-Po will probably toast the board.

Single cell Li-Po = 3.7 volts.

beroll
2007.10.08, 08:05 PM
i dont know about lipos but i run 6 cells in mines. no problem ;D oh modded 180 motor too

Used2xmodding
2007.10.08, 09:55 PM
6 v cap mayb

Gigibesi
2007.10.20, 12:31 PM
can i put MR02 diff ball in the MR01 ?? is it worth to race until now since i upgrade its fet to 1 stack of 4562 fet...?

Used2xmodding
2007.10.21, 01:42 AM
with an 015 rear

HammerZ
2007.10.21, 03:19 AM
can i put MR02 diff ball in the MR01 ??

You mean the ball's inside the diff? The MR02 ball diff has smaller balls than the MR01 ball diff. If that's the case the diff gear would be too thick for the balls to touch the plates.


For the MR02 diffs on the MR01.
With the MR01F mount or the MR02-MR015 RM-HM mounts. It centers your motor for better left right balance. The good thing is that those newer mounts will attach to the MR01 plate fine.

Using the MR02 diff on the original MR01 mount you will need spacers to fill the slack on the gear side. And extend the pinion out to reach the diff gear.