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Kel
2007.07.10, 09:59 AM
As most of you have seen Programmer's video of the X-mod vs. the Mini-Z, I was not really satisfied with the results. So I picked up a brand new X-mod starter kit at the local Radioshack for $25 and got three free upgrades according to the sale they were having, which is a very good deal. What I plan to do is build up this X-mod to win or at least compete against a mini-z in a stock class race. And I'm sure most of you will be surprised at the results.

Here is the X-mod fresh from the packaging. I picked up some suspension upgrades and the motor upgrade. It is easily the best $25 I have ever spent.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod1.jpg

I also picked up the second generation EVO chassis from the batch that Radioshack had. This second gen chassis is faster and stronger. I will post updates as I find the improvements over the first gen EVO chassis. The initial testing will be done with the xmod in stock form on recharchable ni-mh batteries. No bearings or suspension tweaks, no nothing. I will get it on the dyno and see the speed of this EVO and you can compare it to the first gen EVO that programmers used in his vid.

Updates are soon to follow

arch2b
2007.07.10, 10:14 AM
the best practical experience comaprisons are already being done with hfay. this is a restricted class racing so the comparisons are much closer other than box stock and we already have atleast 2 seasonss worth of race data as well.

if you really want to wow someone, join hfay with the xmod and see where you end up comparatively with over 100 other drivers.

i look forward to seeing your build up :)

Kel
2007.07.10, 10:46 AM
Thanks arch, I hope some of those hfay guys get to see this thread, as the X-mod will not stay box stock for long and some minor mods actually make the xmod a much more aggresive racer.

Here are some more pictures for those of you that arn't familar with the X-mod. The overall center of gravity is very low, the only thing that is sticking up on the chassis is the motor, but the batteries are positioned even lower than that of the mini-z's.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod7.jpg

Speaking of low center of gravity, look at how low the chassis is. I dont see how kids are running these outdoors, because they appear to be strictly ment for onroad and any small pebble would set it off track.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod5.jpg

Here is an under shot of the batteries. If you unscrew the two center screws on the battery tray, it can actually be shifted forward or back to changed handling. I may move it back a bit for some more rear weight for better traction.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod8.jpg

And the dyno test is soon to follow, as well as some of the improvements over the the first generation EVO chassis.

arch2b
2007.07.10, 10:52 AM
i've raced evo cars many times and while they are a huge improvement over the xmods, the still do not compare stock vs. stock with a mini-z. for example, dow hosted a regional race and there were several people with xmods adn not one of them could complete a race due to chassis probelms, range issues, etc.

i've even raced evo cars with mini-z pcb's installed...

keep up the build, images and reports :) for $25 it makes it a great means for testing.

franciscantony
2007.07.10, 11:14 AM
Didn't realize there's a second generation evo chassis.
How is it different from version 1?
-Francis

mk2kompressor
2007.07.10, 12:24 PM
there is only gen1 and evo,even the new transformers stuff is the evo chassis.
programmers has done both gen1 and evo vids,the evo was mine :)
it should do anything from 12-17kph on the speed checker(ive tested a few;))
good luck with it :)

hrdrvr
2007.07.10, 12:32 PM
Ive bought an xmod fairly recently (scion tC). It had stronger plastic for the diff and third gear (or whatever the one is between the diff and pinion gear). It also had a blue board instead of the standard green. It still handles like an xmod, and isnt any faster than my older ones.

I have one xmod (EVO chassis) that I used to use and compete with miniZs. I still have it, I just much prefer the Z. Its upgrades consisted of GPM outdrives, GPM diffs, cf shaft, bearings, RS AWD, RS suspension, RS lowering kit and an atomic standard motor. With all of these upgrades I consistantly won short races with guys using stock Zs. Once we started going up to 25 and 50 lap races, I can barelay hang with it.

IMO, the Tx and board are its major downfall (as compared to a Z). Once thats rememdied (changing out the board like arch mentioned) you still have to deal with the wheel slop and other QC issues that are much more infrequent with higher class racers.

I think, if you want to compete with a Z, youll need to get something like the Revell RPMz or one of the Iwaiver chassis as your starting platform. QC isnt much better wiht those companies, but the electronics/Txs far surpass that of an xmod.

Im looking forward to what you come up with though. Keep at it and prove us wrong :P

Kel
2007.07.10, 12:40 PM
Ah yes mk2, that would be a good guess on the stock speed of the gen1 EVO, but I think some electrical changes have been made that gave it some extra boost in speed in the newer version. I have already spotted a different electronics board in this one than in my old EVO. In fact the mainboard of this one is blue, rather than the same old green one. I'm not sure of the benefits of the new board yet. Testing will tell.

For now I have some pics with the body on. Very nice for an X-mod and nicley detailed. Underneath the shell is hidden all the screws on the body that hold on the bumbers, fenders, and side skirts. Don't forget the removable mirrors too. I would think that all these screws would weigh down the chassis, which is why I will be shaving some of them off. I think they make it a little top heavy too. Here are some pictures:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod9.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod10.jpg

And the front end is beefed up alot. I dont think anything will break on a fullforce impact. These are some of the screws that can be removed and replaced with glue to shave some weight off the body.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod11.jpg

I am off to work after these pics, but will update later tonight with pics on the dyno.

mk2kompressor
2007.07.10, 12:50 PM
it uses the same layout and components,just a different colour pcb,they changed the colour of the differential/gear plastic to blue too for some reason :confused:

Kel
2007.07.10, 07:56 PM
hrdrvr- I hopefully plan to prove some people wrong, because the X-mod can be setup to compete and even beat a mini-z. And yes, the electronics are a downfall, which is why I have some mods to correct some of it, especially the steering.

mk2- don't you think there is a reason why Radioshack would replace the plastic with something different? I will check it out after I take this little guy apart to see the real improvements.

Stock Speed Test:
I finally got the %100 stock X-mod on the dyno for a speed test. I was very surprised at the results. I didn't think it would top out at 21kph with stock bushings, which is why I assume that the blue gears and new electronics board have some improvements. That should also increase after I get my bearings and a different gear ratio, since the stock one is set for torque. This test was also done with energizer recharchables 850mah. I plan to put in some Intellect 750's, which I have noticed are the best for xmods and that may also increase the top end a little as well as the punch. I think I may keep the stock motor in there for a while, the stage 2 will wait till I get the suspension setup I'm looking for.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod12.jpg
More updates will follow.

mk2kompressor
2007.07.11, 06:36 AM
they changed the plastic to stop the gears from stripping in the diffs.
i still think a good handling one can be made,my current evo can go some round a track but i gave up on it when i got my ma010's
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o130/mk2kompressor/fitting010.jpg

Kel
2007.07.11, 09:11 AM
Lithium's are pointless, in my opinion, for any type of racing other than a straight drag. They weigh less, but the weight is removed from a very important location on the chassis, the bottom. This leads to the car fliping over and traction rolling about twice as many times as a regular ni-mh powered car. And all this flipping will eventually lose you the race. Not to mention that that electronics behave uncontrollably with lithiums, the servo will stutter under the increased volatage and a major portion of the straight line tracking is lost from that. This is why I will not go Lithium on this X-mod, and it will stay on all fours throughout the length of the track.

Here some of the improvements I have spotted on the chassis:
First, are the blue gears people have been talking about. They are indeed blue and their old counterpart was a grey like the color of the chassis. The material feels a bit denser and the diff is much smoother. The first gen EVO's had a terrible clicking noise that could be felt when you turned the diff, the gears inside did not align perfectly and would eventually break under force. Ph2t has developed a way to fix the EVO diffs from breaking, but it appears that will not be needed with these new diffs. Also, the blue bevel gear it the same material as the diff. The old Evo's bevel gear would often get jammed, and you would need to go in reverse to unjam it, however bearings were a solution to this problem. But these should hold up to the stress placed by a HOT motor.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmodfixes.jpg

Another improvemnt I spotted was some beefed up rear dog bones. Compared to the stock one, you can see that the middle section, which is most prone to breakage, has been thickened. Breaking dog bones shouldent be a problem when running on regular ni-mh batteries, but those with lithium will like this.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmodfixes2.jpg

I have some bearings on the way and some other misc. upgrades that should give this X-mod the egde on the track. My next step will be to improve the handling because I have already tested it out on the track and noticed some traction rolling. I will either lessen the top weight or widen the wheel base. More updates soon.

hrdrvr
2007.07.11, 09:40 AM
Kel, Im really looking forward to this,. You seem to have a good mindset on how to accomplish what you are aiming for. Im especially intested in your electronic mods, that are hopefully somehting the average hobbiest can handle :D

As far as the blue gears and diffs, Im almost certain they are a much harder plastic. Ive got a car that eats diffs, and my new blue one still hasnt fried (allthough I dont drive it too much anymore). Mine didnt come with the thicker dogbones though :(

Kel
2007.07.11, 11:25 AM
hrdrvr-thanks for the comments. After further examination, the blue gears are stronger. They are more precise too. The ends of the old diffs that hold the dog bones can easliy bend, while the blue diff is very stiff. Bearings also fit snug to the blue diff, which will eliminate some wobbeling. Here is a close up of the blue diff compared to the old diff:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod13.jpg

I have been trying out some suspension setups on my track. The main threat now is traction rolling and some oversteer. I could try out the race suspension kit with lowering and lifting links. The lowering ones may lower it too much and create some drag on the bootom of the chassis. I will try out using some in front and back and see what works best. Here is a pic of the kit from Radioshack, whcich is another free upgrade I got from the sale they are having.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmodsuspensionupgrade.jpg

Either way, this kit includes some wider rear axels, like a wider mini-z offset, which should widen the footprint of the X-mod and help keep it planted in the turns.

hrdrvr
2007.07.11, 11:39 AM
^ Also, the body kit for that particular car comes with a new set of rays wheels. The rear ones are widder than stock and would provide an even wider base in the rear to further stabilize your car.

Kel
2007.07.11, 08:15 PM
Yes, I saw those wheels at Radioshack in the body kit. In the end I think I may just swap the scion out for a different body because this one sits very high on the chassis and adds a lot of top weight. I think a lower body will significantly reduce rolling. I will check out what is on sale at Radioshack again, or pull out one of my old ones.

As of now I have found out that the suspension upgrade kit needs some modding to work smoothly. There are some bumps on the side from where the piece was cut off a mold. They interfere with the suspension movement of the spring, and can cause a clicking noise when the spring moves over it. I simply shaved it down with a hobby knife until it was smooth with the rest of the shaft. I think RS may have put them on there to hold the shock in place, but it is not needed when the shock is fully assembled and is not needed for a serious suspension setup. Here you can see the ridges on the shaft:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/fixingshocks.jpg

I have also found out that the springs in the kit are very stiff. The blue ones are rock hard and the yellow are not much better. For any type of real suspension movement, you need to install the red springs. The low down link that comes in the tuning kit will help stiffen them up a bit too by added some initial compression on the spring. The blue springs will almost lock up the suspension. The soft suspension also reduces roll overs. I will try out all the different spring types to be sure. Here is a rear end pic:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod6.jpg

And keep in mind I am using the stock motor when I set the suspension. When I move to a hotter motor, the suspenion will more likely have to be stiffened up a bit. But for now the stock motor has plenty of speed, even for my large sized track. I will post more updates in about a week. I need to get my bearings in and then do another speed test. I think the bearings will help with speed and handling by reducing friction and taking out almost all of the terrible wheel slop and wheel wobble that X-mods are known for. Suggestions are welcome, as I like to see people's input on what they think of the X-mods.

Kel
2007.07.17, 03:14 PM
I got my bearings and batteries in the mail the other day, and I am really having fun with this X-mod now. The bearing elminate almost all of the slop that the wheels have. I would say 90% of it is gone, and the rest does not effect performence. The bearings also make the steering more responsive and much more precise. I am going 8-10 laps on the track without hitting a wall, which is great for the X-mod. Some of this was also due to a steering mod I did, which I will talk more about later.

I also got the Intellect batteries in the X-mod for the added punch, and they help alot. The X-mod weighs alot, chassis alone, and the punch on these batteries easily push it out of the corners with greater speed than the regular ni-mh's. They look great with the chassis too:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod14.jpg
I have fixed the traction rolling issue completely. First, I put the wide rear axels in back from the suspenion tuning kit. After that was installed, I still had some rolling in the corners, so I moved to leightening the body. The X-mod bodies have several screws on them to hold the body kit on and make it removable. I'm not really too concerned with looks, since this is a performance X-mod, so I removed all of the screws and other items that weighed down the body and were dead weight.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod15.jpg
As you can see, I was able to remove alsmost all of the screws under the body, minus two that hold on the front bumper(I want to be able to remove this piece). All the screws in this pic are from the body alone. I placed a small dap of CA glue where the screws used to be on the body kit pieces, and they are holding just fine. I took the mirrors completely off, to try and remove even more of the top weight. Overall, I shaved off a good deal of uneeded weight and it fixed the traction rolling problem. Here is a pic after the removal of the screws up front:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod17.jpg
More updates will follow. There is still much to do.

color01
2007.07.17, 03:50 PM
I don't know how dedicated you are to your Xmod shell, but IMO Iwaver shells rock for cheap racing. Plus they're very light relative to the Xmod bodies.

So far so good Kel, you're treating the Xmod like a production car being reworked to go touring car racing. I like. ;)

Roketmini
2007.07.17, 03:58 PM
If you still want to run that Xmod shell, use a rotary tool or something to trim away the command logic light mounts and other molded in spots that you aren't using, and you can make the slots in the battery cover larger.

Kel
2007.07.17, 04:58 PM
Rocketmini, that is a great idea. I just cut off all the remiaing material that was not in use under the body. I shaved off about 5g of plastic I would estimate. Here are some before and after shots:
Before
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod20.jpg
After
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod21.jpg

The first thing I started trimming off, I forgot the dremel was set on high speed, and it went through the body and left a small hole. O well, I dont really care about the body, for racing purposes only.

franciscantony
2007.07.17, 05:05 PM
If you don't care about the body, just cut off the top and
make it a convertible ;-) or atleast cutout a moonroof.
that should save some grams.

Kel
2007.07.18, 09:32 AM
I don't think I'm going to take anything more off the body, it is fine now. Another problem I have run into is oversteering in certain parts of my track. This can be solved by moving some of the weight up front, to the back. As ou can see in this pic, the battery tray is still in its stock position. It can be moved front or back, depending on if yuo want more over or understeer, or less or more rear traction. It actually has 4 or 5 mounting positions, which impressed me.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod16.jpg

But I needed less understeer and more rear traction so I slid the tray back a bit. At first I slid it all the way back, but found that I had too much understeer, so I moved it a notch forward, and now it is perfect. Here are some pics:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod19.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod18.jpg

And if you havent noticed, My chassis is still RWD. I plan to keep it this way. Why? because the Radioshack awd kit sucks. It will give you all wheel drive, but there is so much binding in the drivetrain, you loose about 25% of your speed and efficency. The plastic in the rear driveshaft holder is not very accurate, and can have slight warping. I noticed this on another X-mod evo of mine. This causes the rear bevel gear to not line up correctly, and they will be pushed together too much, cuaseing a clicking noise. It may not be noticibale when the motor in in, but take the motor out and spin the drivetrain and you will see that is is not very free. I have found a way to get rid of most of the binding, by simply shaving off some end of the driveshaft and the end of the bevel gear, to seperate the gear mesh a little.
The RWD setup is very efficient and there is no binding. It handles just fine like this, and doesnt need the added weight of the driveshaft. But if you do go awd, the carbon shaft helps alot, and it can be trimmed easier.
As of now, the X-mod is running very good speed wise. The motor is fully broken in, and the accelleration is easily better than my mini-z's. I think with a ball bearing motor can and carbon brushes, we will have a winning stock motor. More updates later.

Limeaway
2007.07.19, 11:16 AM
If you ever did want to go awd, Atomic does make bevel gears. I don't know if they help with the binding though, but seeing that Atomic has a good line of parts, I don't see why the Xmod parts wouldn't be good as well.

Kel
2007.07.19, 01:19 PM
Ya, I saw those atomic carbon shaft set and the black bevel gears. They look like a delrin version of the Radioshack ones. I have never heard of anyone trying them out yet, but I still think they would need some modding to work without any binding.
I have spotted a weak spot on the EVO chassis, the knuckles. I managed to break one of the rear knuckles somehow. The car suddenly twisted during a turn and when I picked it up the knuckles had broke. But, I have several sets of knuckles on hand, and it was an easy fix. For those of you that like alloy parts, I suggest alloy knuckles for the X-mod, since so many screws rely on that part, and it will make it more durable. Here are some pics of the broken knuckle:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod22.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod23.jpg

The intellect cells are really kicking in as of now! After about 5 charges, the punch has increased a substanial amount.
One of my friends has a stock class mini-z with PN spec parts, and we plan to race soon. I think it will be a pretty close race, but the test will be to see where I am at, and what I need to add and mod. I will try to get it on video if I can.

arch2b
2007.07.19, 01:39 PM
again, if you want to do some practical testing with lap times and numbers simply use any of the existing hfay tracks. we already have lots of data on mini-z and xmods performance on these tracks and it would give you the best comparison data.

Limeaway
2007.07.20, 04:53 AM
You said you did a steering mod that you would later talk about?

Kel
2007.07.20, 09:50 AM
The steering mod consists of centering the pot inside the servo. This makes it so you don't need to click the buttons on the controller to make it run straight, and the car won't wander on its own. Then you need to apply a think grease on all the gears in the servo, which stops some of the stuttering and vibrations from the servo. I am trying to get some pics, but it is hard since it is in the chassis. I have also tried different servo motors, but they did not work. They would either overpower it and cause some glitching, or pull it too hard to one side and get stuck.

I found out that most of the steering issues are not found on the chassis, but on the controller. Some of the controllers that come in the stock kit are glitchy, I have gotten one like this before. It will cause the steering to suddenly twitch while turning. The only fix is to use a different controller. I tried 2 different controllers until I found the right one without any glitching on my old EVO car. The new EVO controller did not have the glitching problem like the others. But, after it got 25ft+ away, it would glitch on some parts of my track. The fix to this is to take off the short antenna that comes with it, and put on a hobby grade antenna. You will need to ream out a larger hole on top of the controller to fit the larger antenna. Once it is in you will get about 20ft more range and much less glitching. I will get pics of my setup later.

Roketmini
2007.07.20, 09:57 PM
One thing I might suggest is to upgrade to an iWaver or Mini-Z pcb. I know a few people here have done it. I have the same problem with 2 of my 5 Xmods, and the first one I got is cantankerous and old and only works when I give it cookies....


....hmm....


...sounds like a mod I should post on the offical Xmod site :D

Limeaway
2007.07.20, 10:02 PM
I think the whole point of the build up is to prove that an xmod can be "race worthy," with stock electronics. Thus the title lol.

Kel
2007.07.25, 06:36 PM
I have set aside the RWD EVO chassis, and started working on an AWD chassis. I have worked out most of the kinks, and the drivetrain rolls smooth and has minimal binding. The current plans for this chassis are still in my mind. Should I go hobby grade, and use a iwaver or mini-z board? I am thinking about it. I need some of your input, and if enough people want me to do it, then I will. Here are current pics of the chassis next to the stock racer:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod24.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod26.jpg
To get the awd kit to work without binding you need to shave 1mm off each side of it, and more if needed. Then shave off 1mm from one of the read bevel gears at the base of the gear, so it will slide down the shaft more. I used a carbon fiber driveshaft, so the shaving can be done with a file. I ended up taking more off the back of the shaft than the front, but others may differ. And full ball bearings are a must for a smooth drivetrain. Here you can see the red gear.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod25.jpg
The project will continue this week. I think I may try using a mini-z or Iwaver body on this one. Tell me what you think.

arch2b
2007.07.25, 06:38 PM
will you continue with the initial chassis build? after all, we are all reading about your race worthy xmod and the claims it's performing better than a/your mini-z. i think you have many interested reads waiting to see the results of that build. :)

color01
2007.07.26, 05:49 PM
Kel - After building my Xwaver, I'm pretty convinced that any kind of Xmod electronics will limit your performance versus any Mini-Z. I'd just pick up two EnjoyRC or Iwaver boards and convert the cars over.

Kel
2007.07.28, 10:02 AM
I have been busy working on the hobby-grade EVO for a while. I need some of your help. Does anyone know how to hook up a HS-55 servo to a Iwaver board? I am having trouble making the stock servo work with the upgraded board, so some help would be nice.

bda52
2007.07.29, 12:08 PM
I have been busy working on the hobby-grade EVO for a while. I need some of your help. Does anyone know how to hook up a HS-55 servo to a Iwaver board? I am having trouble making the stock servo work with the upgraded board, so some help would be nice.

I do not know the answer to your question but you might have better luck posting that question in the "Iwaver" section of the board.

Kel
2007.07.31, 01:14 PM
Arch- don't worry, the other build will continue. I'm just doing this other chassis on the side while I wait for parts.

The Hobby grade EVO is here. I put an Iwaver board in there, and the results are pretty good. I have not had a chance to race it yet, but I will soon. Here are some pics:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/iwaver1.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/iwaver2.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/iwaver3.jpg
It is all in working condition, and the steering is glitchless. I will post how I like it after I get some time to test it out.

arch2b
2007.07.31, 01:27 PM
nice, clean work!

Limeaway
2007.07.31, 02:28 PM
Looks great! Once you do test it, and you're satisfied with the result, you should think about shortening some of the wires, looks confusing :D. Have you considered using some atomic wheels in order to use some mini-z tires? You could just shave off the ridge on the Radio Shack wheels, though...

color01
2007.08.01, 05:21 PM
AWD dish rims of some brand would be perfect for this. ;)

I like the clean conversion, glad to hear that it works fine!

byebye
2007.08.02, 06:38 AM
Kel that's some impressive work :)!

Arch2b we should consider sticking this thread. It has lots of good information as far as upgrades and tuning. I just cant' think of where to put it.

Kel again I commend you. Sounds like a fun project. I have an EVO sitting in my junk bodies drawer aling with NIP upgrade parts. I believe you can actually make a race worthy x-mod while still staying within the rules of HFAY stock class.

Goodjob! And keep us posted.

Kris

Kel
2007.08.03, 12:49 PM
Thanks Byebye, I hope that your EVO will be put to good use.

I finally got a chance to test out the Iwavered evo. And the results are....well... alright, in my opinion. The range was much more than an xmod, and the steering was smooth. Yes, it was easier to drive around the track, but the only thing it lacked was speed. I was running a stage 2 in an atmoic ball-bearing case, and the speed was a little less than my stock racer evo. Even if I took out the AWD, the speed was not that much better. I think the FETs on a EVO car are much better than any stock Iwaver or Mini-z FETs, which is why the speed is more on the EVO board. I should also add that I was using the same gearing as my stock class racer.

In the end, I don't think I'm going to keep the Iwaver board in there for much longer. I have other projects that could use it, and even though the steering is better than an EVO's, it is not worth it in an xmod. I am going to continue the stock EVO chassis for now and use the stock electronics. I have improved the EVO's steering alot, even though it is harder to drive than the Iwavered one. Besides, I always like a challenge, and the purpose of this build is to make the Xmod race worthy while keeping it's electronics stock.

For those of you who want to try the Iwaver conversion on the Evo chassis, you need to solder the orange and black pot wires on pad S1 on the iwaver board, and the white pot wire goes to pad S2. The servo motor wires go to pad M- and M+ on the C4 resistor pad. Hope this helps.

More updates on the stock EVO car in a few hours, while I finish up mounting a new body on it.

Kel
2007.08.04, 09:34 AM
Now the stock racer really looks like a mini-Z! I got a Mini-z blue skyline R34 mounted and it fit perfect. I didn't even need to extend the wheel base, the wheels and the wheel wells lined up perfectly. The improvements of using this body is that is it lower, weighs less than my xmod body, even after all the material was shaved away, and the added strength. Almost forgot that it looks sweet! Check out the pics on how I mounted it.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmodbody1.jpg
I used a modified Xmod WRX front clip. It fits perfect in the body clip slot with a little trimming.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmodbody4.jpg
Now for the rear mounting, the setup is similar to a Mini-Z's. On each side of the body there are pins that line up to holes in the chassis. The Pin things on mine are screws that are held in on the other side of the white piece, I had to take them off and then glue them back in. To put on the body you just need to flex the body, like you do to fit on a mini-z, and it clips right in.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmodbody2.jpg
Here are the mounting holes on the sides of the chassis. Once the body clips in, it holds very well. I have yet to have the body fall off after a crash.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmodbody3.jpg
And here are some shots with the body on. I think it looks great with the gold rims and low stance.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmodbody5.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmodbody6.jpg
Now when I'm driving on the track, it looks like a mini-z until I show the chassis. If you ever wanted to mount a Mini-z body on an xmod, this is a pretty easy and good way to do it. Tell me what you think.

Limeaway
2007.08.04, 01:00 PM
Nice job! Really clean fit, looks as if it was made to fit on the evo chassis. ;)

color01
2007.08.04, 01:51 PM
That's just clean as heck. Now you need better wheels and tires. ;)

mk2kompressor
2007.08.04, 03:52 PM
exellent way of mounting the body :cool:

HammerZ
2007.08.04, 04:22 PM
Look's slick, I guess now it is a Zmods. I had my run in with Xmods body on an MR02, that showed me how much heavier the bodies are. And how it effects the handling.

http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/524/Hyperdrive.JPG

This thing has so much in the nose, it's like a 454 big block. If I go easy with it it's fine, just no good for racing though.

byebye
2007.08.04, 07:23 PM
So hows it run?

Kris

HammerZ
2007.08.04, 08:24 PM
That's just it, Tape or zip tie another 130 motor to the front clip and try to drive around the track with it. That is going into a turn on throttle it will spin out, and off throttle it will push. There is no in between here.

This combo look's way better than it drives. Needless to say I understand the Kyosho body on an Xmods chassis better than this setup. Really, this body has set in my body pile for a long time. This is my least favorite body to run. It shows me the hinderence that an Xmods body has.

Kel
2007.08.13, 09:55 AM
djfourmoney-I see you have taken advantage of the sale at Radioshack. Post up your xmod when you finish it.

I have been runing the Mini-z body for a while now and have yet to run into any problems with it. It has held on great. You can really tell that it weighs less and makes car faster and easier to handle.

I just got some parts in the mail today. They are just some random pieces that I think should be used to increase precision and smoothness.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod30.jpg
GPM alloy front knuckles
GPM alloy steering tie rod
Atomic Ball diff for EVO

I can't wait to try these out. I will get more pics, install them and see how it runs. I will update later tonight.

Limeaway
2007.08.13, 10:57 AM
Whoo! Finally someone bought the Atomic diff, I have yet to hear how they perform!

Kel
2007.08.13, 06:44 PM
Everything is installed and tested out. I must say that the front axe stubs are one of the best things I have bought for this chassis. They take out the rest of the slop that the bearings didn't fix, and made it much more precise. Look how shiny they are:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod31.jpg
And they look good on the chassis too.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod33.jpg
And the alloy tie rod does not bend with the suspension like the stock one and holds both wheels pointing the same direction. Once you put in in though, you need to recenter the pot on the servo so it runs straight.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod34.jpg
And finally the rear ball diff from atomic.... I hate it. It does not even mesh with the stock bevel gear and it clicks from time to time. I think you need to buy an atomic bevel gear for it to work. And when you tighten the LSD it tightens the diff action, which makes it not even perform right. You have to tighten it a ton so it does not slip, and then the ball diff action is very stiff. I am going back to the blue diff soon. Don't even waste your money on this one.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod32.jpg
I think I am going to take a break from the Evo chassis, since I'm pretty pissed that the ball diff doesn't work. But I'm sure I will be racing it soon, maybe at the Radioshack in the mall, and smoke little kids with the stock motor, haha.

Kel

Limeaway
2007.08.13, 11:42 PM
How unfortunate. Being that it comes from Atomic, you'd think it'd be up to par with their mini-z aftermarket quality.

byebye
2007.08.14, 07:00 AM
Kel how about a a recommended parts list?

Kris

Kel
2007.08.20, 03:46 PM
Just got back from a busy week. sure byebye, here is a complete list of mods that I used to make the Xmod what mine is now and other suggestions:

Chassis:
-2nd Gen EVO with blue board
-Bearings (soak them in a light electric spray)
-Blue diff
-Wide rear axels
-Soft(Red) suspension all around
-thick grease in suspension tubes
-thick grease on all servo gears
-Battery tray positioned toward rear
-GPM alloy front axel stubs
-GPM alloy tie rod
-Drill underside of motor endbell for comm drops
-stock gearing
-Intellect 750's

Body:
-take out all screws and replace with glue
-shave inside plastic
-switch to a Mini-Z body

TX:
-upgrade to hobby size antenna
-find one that doesn't glitch (the new 2nd gen EVO ones)

I would say that after buying a EVO and putting about $50-$60 worth into it, you can get a pretty serious racer. I'm sure I will update again sometime, but don't expect it to be soon, I will be busy driving my X-mod.

Kel

minizforever
2007.08.20, 09:21 PM
If I were you I would go ahead and get a motor from AM, v2.2 board and some important alloys...

byebye
2007.08.21, 05:54 AM
Cool Kel thanks! Don't forget to give us a race review.

Kris

hrdrvr
2007.08.22, 08:40 AM
Kel, Im sad to hear about the atomic diff. I was really hoping it would be a big step up from the GPM replacement diff, which was crap as well. I ended up running stock diffs tuned with grease when it all came down to it. I had hoped you would bring some life back into my hopes of running an xmod again, but at the price range you are talking about, I can gt a used miniZ which would be FAR superior IMO. I hope you prove me wrong with your race reasults, and I would be very happy to see you compare to some of the HFAY tracks as arch mentioned before. That would be the perfect 'control' IMO.

I hope you dont mind, but I quoted a bit of your thread. There was some one on another board asking about mounting a Z body onto the X chassis. I havent seen a better mounting job than yours so I posted your stuff over there. Of course I gave credit where it is due and posted a link to this thread so it can help non MZR members as well.

Here is a link to the thread I posted so you can check it out.
http://www.xmoding.com/showthread.php?t=9626

If you have any objections to this at all LMK, and Ill get that post removed.

Kel
2007.08.23, 05:23 PM
Thats not a problem at all hrdrvr, I'm glad to have helped someone. Yes the atomic diff is a downfall, but the blue diff is working fine for now, just put some grease in it and it is smooth enough for decent turns.

I have been running against my other xmods, and this one by far smokes them, if any of you have seen my lithium powered xmod from a long time ago (gen1) or any lithium powered xmod for that matter, they really do suck on the track. I am lapping it with the stock motor, which brings me to my next improvement-the motor. I have completely broken in the stock motor and added comm drops to it, which is why I think it has sped up a bit, but now it is time for a real power up. I have discovered earlier in this thread that the Xmod FET's are better than a stock mini-z's by far. I just need to see how much better they are. I going to try dropping in different motors and change the gearing a bit and see what happens. I dont plan to fry the FET's, but I think they will be alright on some of the hotter motors. First, I'm going to take the stage 2 motor from the packaging and see how that does. I will keep you guys posted.

yamar6
2007.09.03, 12:04 AM
i bought the atomic front,rear and the bevel gear.they suck i wasted almost 50.00 dollars and i don't even use them.i emailed them but they never got back to me.it seems like they made them like crap because it's for an xmod.i really thought they would make the evo smoothEverything is installed and tested out. I must say that the front axe stubs are one of the best things I have bought for this chassis. They take out the rest of the slop that the bearings didn't fix, and made it much more precise. Look how shiny they are:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod31.jpg
And they look good on the chassis too.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod33.jpg
And the alloy tie rod does not bend with the suspension like the stock one and holds both wheels pointing the same direction. Once you put in in though, you need to recenter the pot on the servo so it runs straight.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod34.jpg
And finally the rear ball diff from atomic.... I hate it. It does not even mesh with the stock bevel gear and it clicks from time to time. I think you need to buy an atomic bevel gear for it to work. And when you tighten the LSD it tightens the diff action, which makes it not even perform right. You have to tighten it a ton so it does not slip, and then the ball diff action is very stiff. I am going back to the blue diff soon. Don't even waste your money on this one.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/xmod32.jpg
I think I am going to take a break from the Evo chassis, since I'm pretty pissed that the ball diff doesn't work. But I'm sure I will be racing it soon, maybe at the Radioshack in the mall, and smoke little kids with the stock motor, haha.

Kel

Limeaway
2007.09.03, 05:31 PM
What a let down from Atomic. So much for good quality aftermarket support. :rolleyes:

MidwestRacer10
2007.09.03, 08:10 PM
this is an awesome project. I wish i would have seen this a week or two earlier. I just gave my xmod evo away to some little kids at my church.

My church is like my local club. theres like 5 kids that race every wednesday and sunday. I cant wait to get my z and smoke them all. None of them really know about tuning. they just put the biggest motors in and all the upgrades they can. they only practice drifting never just driving and turning.

its a shame to see them spend so much money and waste a lot of it on useless stuff. But they never listen to me so... i guess i will smoke them even more he he

RussF
2007.09.21, 11:31 AM
Excellent thread Kel! I really enjoyed it. I have a couple questions. In the beggining you tested the box stock setup on you speed checker with the energizer batteries at around 21kph. Later in the thread you mentioned the motro being fully broke in and the Intellect batteries kicking in, and also the addition of bearings. What is the speed now?

Also is Radio Shack still having that deal? Sound like a great deal to me. I was in a RS about a month ago and they still had EVO's at $50 and no freebies.

Thanks again for the great info.

Kel
2007.09.21, 05:54 PM
Sorry I havent updated in a while, been busy latley. As for the speed of it now, it has increased by 1kph, but the real advantage is the increase in acceleration speed. The ugrades give it more punch and allow it to get faster times on the track, by faster speeds out of corners. My track is mostly turns(most tracks for that matter) and the accell. is much more important than overall top speed.

As for the Radioshack discount, I don't think they have the exact deal I got, but they should be reasonably marked down. It is becoming harder and harder to come across Xmods now, so I would grab one while you can. I think Radioshack has stopped making them for good.

I did get a chance to drop in the stage 2 motor for some testing and found that is is a decent motor, although it runs a little hot. The torque is about the same as a stock motor, maybe a little more after broken in, and the top speed is much better than the stock and noticable on the track. I am now in the process of putting a stage 2 in an atomic bb case, which should have good results and run a little cooler.

RussF
2007.09.24, 11:33 AM
Kel,
Ok so I went to a couple RS' and found one Scion for $24.97. I picked up three uprades (not included :() but on sale. I got the spring kit, the lowering kit, and the AWD. I opened the case for the car and took out the chassis. There is a ton of slop in the wheels. Also they look different sizes. The ones on the left are skinny and have a ridge in the middle of them and the ones on the right are wider and semi flat. I'm sure I can move them around but I was looking at the tires in your first post and they seem all pretty flat and good. Ok now for the questions.
1. Did the bearings really take out most of that slop in the wheels? The one I got is horrible and I just dont see bearings making a significant difference in slop.
2. What brand of bearings did you use? Where did you get them?
3. Could you post a list of the hop ups with brands and maybe links that you feel are worth while?

Thanks alot for your help. I've been out of it for awhile and for around $50 in car and hop-ups it got me re-interested.

RussF
2007.09.24, 11:36 AM
Oh!! BTW the manager at the RS I went to said they (store managers) were told that there would be new Xmods coming out for Xmas. Dont know how true that is but if it is, Woohoo!

Kel
2007.09.24, 06:25 PM
Bash-N-Trash-nice find on the scion. Yes, the stock xmods have a lot of wheel slop, but the bearings fix most of it, which is why they should be at the top of your list. I use VXB bearing off ebay. They spin better and smoother than radioshack's and are a lot cheaper. If you get radioshack bearings, make sure to clean them out with a light motor spray to free them up a bit and get rid of the grease. Don't even bother getting the sealed bearings, the xmod knuckles protect the bearings enough from dirt,dust,etc. so they are not needed. The bearings remove about 90% of the wheel slop.

As for the hop-up list, check back a page and I have a complete list of everything I used. Most of the mods can be done with Radioshack upgrades, while the alloy and batteries can be found on ebay, atomicmod, and the shop here. Just search around on those sites and ouy will find the stuff I used and some Mini-Z bodies.

I haven't heard anything about new xmods being released. If anything it will just be a new body on the same old chassis with a $50 price tag.

FastTRX
2007.09.24, 06:41 PM
I've been to most of the RS's in my area and I can't seem to find any EVOs...just the new camaro/cop car versions. They have the upgrades but no cars. I wish I could find one for $24.95!!! The last time I messed around with Xmods was when the Gen 1's came out and I took my original RSX back twice until I got one that worked!!

Great write up Kel, you've motivated me to find another car. If they're as cheap as you guys say...I can't beat it!!

RussF
2007.09.25, 09:06 AM
FastTRX,
On Ebay there are quite a few. One guy in particular has a Scion with bearings, lights, and AWD hopups all new for $25 plus $10 shipping. Not bad.

Kel,
Thanks, I thought you had a list somewhere already I just didnt see it when I was looking.

FastTRX
2007.09.25, 09:51 AM
FastTRX,
On Ebay there are quite a few. One guy in particular has a Scion with bearings, lights, and AWD hopups all new for $25 plus $10 shipping. Not bad.

Kel,
Thanks, I thought you had a list somewhere already I just didnt see it when I was looking.
Bash, hey thanks for the tip...I may check that out. I called EVERY RS within 50 miles from my house and not one had any of the older EVOs...just transformers.

yamar6
2007.10.05, 12:28 AM
i just finished my evo. iwaver board and all gpm parts.it runs great im going to stack fets and put the new pn awd motor in it.if anybody wants to put in the iwaver board or mini z make shure you put the sevo motor in it.

FastTRX
2007.10.08, 10:43 PM
Kel, it's been while since your last post about your Evo. Just wondering how progress has come with your Xmod (hopefully you haven't given up on it and moved on). I'm in the process of building a camaro and I'm looking for a better motor to run. What motors have you experimented with? Which are safe for the Evo's board? I have the same goals as you...faster on the track..so it's not about all out speed for me, just a nice motor that will pull hard on the track. Looking forward to a reply. Thanks!

Used2xmodding
2007.10.08, 11:06 PM
the evo fets using non liths can handle a pn fet stock motor actually if they make it anymore


very fast

I have experience with xmods

FastTRX
2007.10.09, 11:55 AM
I want something with good torque...I see that the PN SpeedyAWD motor is a 43 turn motor...would this be safe for the Xmod? Would this be safe on a Z with 3004 FETs? The extra torque of an AWD motor would be great.

Used2Xmodding....I can tell you have experience from your username! :cool:

I'm thinking about trying a FET safe...

Kel
2007.10.14, 10:24 AM
I finally finished putting together a good motor for the EVO. I tried numerous things including the atomic can, but had problems with gear mesh and the motor moving around on me in the chassis. My current setup is a stage 2 motor with a PN ball-bearing motor can and carbon brushes. I find this setup to have plenty of speed for my track, and more than enough torque. I am using stock gearing also.

To make the motor sit properly in the chassis, you must put a small piece of electrical tape or similar between the motor and the clear spacer. This is because the PN cans are slightly smaller and tend to slide around after they are screwed down. This seemed to keep it nice and tight after it is screwed in, and makes the gear mesh perfect. It is not needed for the stock motor cans, only the PN and atomic cans.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/spacer.jpg
The piece does not need to be large at all, just big enough to cover the bottom part of the clear spacer and some of the side walls to prevent left to right movement.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/spacer2.jpg
Here are some pics of the motor.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/motor2.jpg
I used the heat-sink motor plate to hold down the motor. This is not really needed because the motor runs fairly cool, but it does hold down the motor tighter.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/motor.jpg

Also, I put some heat-shirnk tubing around the base of the antenna, as you can see in the pics. This is just a safety precaution by protecting the receiver from being fried. If the antenna touches the motor while it is being powered, and the antenna is very close to the motor, the receiver may fry or it may cause some loss of range. I just used the smallest heat-shrink I could find at Lowes and it wroked great for this purpose.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a143/cmppbdjj/antenna.jpg

FastTRX- you may want to try out this motor setup, it has plenty of torque and the FETs dont get hot when running it. The ball-bearings create a smooth power band, and reduce the amount of amps being pulled from the motor, meaning it is much safer on the FETs.

FastTRX
2007.10.14, 06:53 PM
Hmm...I've been doing some thinking about my setup and I've played around with different things this week. I like how you removed the rear body clip holder to allow the suspension a little better movement...as well as save some weight. I did the same thing but I cant keep the camaro (bumble bee evo) body on the chassis...one slight tap of the wall and the body comes apart of the chassis and rubs the tires making the car bog and slow down. I'm working on a fix for this...I'll post some pics.

I also trimmed the front clip on the camaro....the front suspension barely was able to move and looked twisted...I took care of this by taking my dremel to the front clip...the suspension works great now...way smoother.

I like your motor setup. I never thought of going to a BB can. I considered doing the SpinBrush Hybrid motor (did this with my Gen 1 stage 2 motors and it worked quite well for me) and maybe usinga thicker guage wire. I was also considering neo mags...or trying the PN Fet safe like Used2Xmodding suggested. I'm putting an order in for some stuff soon...

In the meantime I just got my MR02 from pinoyboy (thanks again Hank!) and I've been playing with this...what a blast...the handling is sooo great. Now if I can get my Evo handling this well....

Kel....food for thought...would you suggest adding alloy front knuckles? I'm really trying to keep my weight down...and I've been doing some shaving here and there....I'm just really worried about the quality of the cheap stock ones...and I'm wanting to upgrade to stronger...but dont want the extra weight. I guess it's all a compromise in the end...

BTW...have you had any issues with the stock servo gears? I tore one up this past weekend and lost a bit of steering. I tore into the servo assembly and flipped the stripped gear and realigned it and its worked good so far. Just worried about it in the future as my car takes some hard hits. I'll get some pics up soon if its okay with you Kel...seeing how this is your thread.

Used2xmodding
2007.10.15, 05:11 PM
i am going to put an micro t board in an xmod evo awd


Or i can rebuild my t


How can i hook up a propulse system in an xmod



I have futaba 2pl receiver unit i can probabky hook up custom servo and maybe do gen 1 or ill install into a z somehow


ur wasting ur money on that xmod , i know i was into it for a year, If i were u i would save up and buy a 02 readyset and use the xmods for fun

Kel
2007.10.15, 07:08 PM
Used2xmodding- I have a few Mini-z's, including the MR-02 and the AWD, but the purpose of this thread is to setup the X-mod to race against these High-grade racers. The Micro-t board is good, similar to a Mini-z board in peformance, but a bit larger. Also, If you want to put a different servo in the xmod, you will have to do some hacking, there is no room for anything but the stock one.

FastTRX-The carbon brushes add enough torque, so stronger magnets are not neccesary. Also, the stronger your magnets are, the lower your top speed. They will increase torque, but will hurt your top end, unless geared up very high. The Neo-mags you thinking about getting will slow you down, and they will add off-throttle drag.

About alloy knuckles, they are much stronger than the stock ones, but they leave the bearing side open, unlike the stock ones which seal it up pretty good. The open bearing face will attract dust to the bearings and over time clog it up, and I don't really like taking my car apart to clean it often. The quality looks much better, and they are probably more precise, but the stock ones have been fine for me. I wouldn't really worry about weight being an issue with a few alloy pieces, as long as it is low on the chassis(not causing it to be top heavy). As long as you drive with the body on, the knuckles will be protected from crash damage.

And the servo gears are weak, but there is nothing we can really do about that. Just keep the gears greased up pretty good and stock up on them for now. And again, drive with the body on to protect the gears from crash damage by impact on the front wheels.

RussF
2007.10.16, 09:08 AM
Has anyone ever discovered a better radio to use than the stock one? What keeps this from happening? I like my old Xmod Gen1 its fun to drive but as soon as anybody with a better radio turns thiers on (different channels of course) I get about half the range as when I'm alone. A race worthy Xmod may be possible but as long as you have to use the stock radio I think you are limited.

FastTRX
2007.10.16, 09:55 AM
The Evos are just as bad. I was messing around at work with someone who had a Gen 1 and I couldn't keep my Evo moving....

Different crystals...just crappy reception. And you're right...the controller needs to go...

Kel
2007.10.16, 11:01 AM
Try to use Cyrstals that are far apart in Mhz. Me and a friend always run X-mods together, and sometimes he uses a Mini-Z while I use a X-mod and we have no problems at all, although there can be glitching when a person with a Mini-Z radio stands too close to a person with a X-mod radio.

Before my local track closed down, we used to have races of 6+ Mini-Z's. When people wanted to use X-mods, they would have a loss of range with all the Mini-Z's running. But when they put a fresh 9volt in the X-mod controller, it worked great. Also, if they stood at the other end of the track, away from the Mini-Z drivers, they had no problems at all.

If you notice on my motor, I kept the stock 472 caps on it. Most motors have 103 or 104 caps on them, which is what the Mini-Z uses. I found that by using the regular stock caps on upgraded motors, instead of the 103/104 caps, the X-mod does not lose range in certain parts of the track, like it would with the 104 caps. I don't know if the Xmod board will be damaged by the 104 caps, but they must have put the 472 caps on there for a reason.

And feel free to post some pics FastTRX.

FastTRX
2007.10.16, 11:18 AM
I worked with a new suspension style last night...pics coming. It's not rocket science...but I did some thinking about the handling of the car vs. the handling of my MR02 and I'm trying to mimic the handling characteristics of the mini-z as close as possible.

I feel the Evo chassis has it's upsides/advantages...it's just caught in the "toy-car" grade of mini RC's. I've so far enjoyed tinkering with the Xmod...it's been alot of fun playing with different setups. Keep moddin' guys!

michvin
2007.10.16, 01:48 PM
nice job so far. How does it compare to mini-z in handling?

FastTRX
2007.10.16, 11:20 PM
Okay...I've owned my Evo for probably 2 weeks so far. It started as a stock 09' Camaro...but I'd like to think it's being transformed (ha...transformers..lol) into a competitive race 1/28th scale, just like Kel's TC. Now I'll be the first to admit...I've had no experience with Mini-Z's other than about an hour that I've spent driving my MR02 since I recieved it from Hank (Pinoyboy) this past Saturday, the rest of the time has been spent with the Xmod (I know, I know :D ). It didn't take me long to feel the immense difference in the handling characteristics between both, even only running the new MR02 for 15 minutes! I run 2 types of tracks at my house...a low-pile carpet track in my basement and a smooth concrete surface setup in my shop. Both do a good job of getting an idea of what works and what doesn't...the concrete more.

I've owned many Xmods over the years...I've been messing around with them since they've come out. After getting out for a few years and then coming back about a month ago and getting my Evo...there's been alot I've missed. Thanks to this thread and Kel's work...I got the urge to start building my Evo.

Out of the package I feel the Evo has many advantages to begin with.
First of all... it has a very low CG with the newly under-mounted battery tray. This helps it greatly...as this has been mentioned before. I've never been a fan of the suspension on the Xmods. Whenever upgrading to the suspension upgrade from RS, I never felt like it did anything...and changes were very minor if anything. You would expect this from a $50 toy of course. It's like putting a cold air intake on real car...you'd like to think you feel extra power...but it's just your mind playing with you (more times than not...I understand this can be un-true with a change in different variables). The suspension has always needed help....
But lets not lose hope here...the Evo still has potential. Many have given up by this point.

So I got to thinking...after looking at my MR02 chassis...why does the Mini-Z racer chassis handle soo good? Common sense tells me to mimic the suspension system of the Z.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/6696/rc2fk5.jpg
I understand this a bit challenging in the rear..but with the front end, it is possible with the Evo. I really like the front end on the MR02...the kingpin mounted suspension really does a good job of keeping the front planted...and a very stable car in the corners. Steering is also dramatically smoother than the Evo. Tires seem to play a big part....but that's an easy swap.

Here's my modification after tinkering with the suspension on my Camaro. I wanted to make a kingpin mounted suspension above the knuckle to help keep the front end planted in corners and to help reduce roll. I also wanted a shorter travel suspension up front.
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/3459/rc1zg2.jpg
As you can tell there are no suspension dampeners on the front.
It's hard to see in this pic..but there is a small cut stock spring squeezed underneath the upper spindle/knuckle mount and in between the knuckle itself, held in place by the upper knuckle screw. It's no more than a stock spring (didn't want to cut an upgraded one, plus I like the moderately stiff spring better than soft up front) cut in half and placed in there.

I did this to both the front end and rear end...I tested it on both surfaces...concrete and carpet. The car reacted well on carpet with both front and rear...but there was a small amount of "hop" in the rear. This was most likely due to what little travel the suspension components had. I took this setup on my concrete track and it was downright horrible. The front worked well...but I couldn't keep the rear end from coming around...anywhere on the track. I converted it back to the spring dampeners...but I feel that this has room for improvement. I liked the idea of this setup for the rear...it provided a lower ride height, but also limited suspension travel which I feel is important with these small vehicles. In other words...alot of suspension travel can equal alot of roll (or potential of)...regardless of the stiffness of the spring and the effect of the front dampeners. This is really only true on the Xmod. Alot of Z guys find that shortening the front end suspension travel with shims helps the car handle better up front. It just makes more sense to limit suspension, its not like this car is jumping anything. A low-ride height means better handling, or so I'd like to think? I also feel the rear needs some sort of sway-bar to help keep it planted, the moving rear deck just doesn't seem as effective as it should... More ideas on that later...

Weight-loss is an integral part in making a faster, better handling car. I've really took my dremel to this car...
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/6655/rc4ds6.jpg
The stock Camaro body had ALOT to be taken out...and everything was taken out but the screws that hold the bumpers on and important parts that maintain the structural integrity of the body. You may also note the front diff guard (to be taken out if AWD is installed) is removed..as well as the rear clip holder/screws that hold the body in place on the rear deck...in between both spring dampeners on the rear of the car. I would like to think weight is also shaved with the removal of the springs/dampeners/screws in addition to everything else.

My next step in making a better handling car is a wider stance. This can be achieved with wider axles...something I'd like to work on. Aftermarket parts are in the future of my project Evo...but I dont want to spend too much money. I would also like to work on a rear supension setup (stock) similar to the MR02. This can most likely be achieved but it will take some work...

This is an ongoing project...but I'm enjoying it. I love my mini-z..but there will always be a place on my shelf for the Xmod.

Please excuse the horrible quality of the pictures...my camera sucks.

RussF
2007.10.17, 09:21 AM
looking good I still have my Xmod Evo Scion in the box. Havent even put batteries in it yet but I did put the cool brake thingies on. I've been really close to buying the bearings off ebay several times but I stopped myself. I decided after seeing my Gen1 run against Mini-Z's that the Xmod would have to wait for both fundage and time. I picked up a MR02 chassis, body, and tires from Ultimate Hobbies and I think I'm going to focus on that for awhile. The problem with the Xmod was the radio. I couldnt stand in the right spot to get good control with the other Mini-Z's running at the same time. I was fast enough, just couldnt control it. I wish someone smart with electronics would come up with a chip or small circuit board to solder into the Xmod board so a real radio could be used. I would buy one, probably many. Anyway nice write up guys I really enjoy reading about your experiments. Keep em coming!

Oh and FastTRX the second pic is just showing a red X, is it me or is it not working?

FastTRX
2007.10.17, 01:19 PM
Bash...it's working for me? Let me know if you're still seeing a red x.

michvin
2007.10.17, 01:24 PM
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/6655/rc4ds6.jpg
yucks.... doesn't look good.
j/k
:D

FastTRX
2007.10.17, 01:29 PM
It doesn't have to...its underneath the shell.

Like Kel's car...I'm not going for looks! :p

michvin
2007.10.17, 01:30 PM
It doesn't have to...its underneath the shell.

Like Kel's car...I'm not going for looks! :p
i know - i was kidding

RussF
2007.10.17, 02:50 PM
Sorry its the 3rd pic that has the red X for me not the second.

FastTRX
2007.10.22, 07:37 PM
Okay...after testing this setup for about a week, I've concluded I don't like it. I like the concept of it, and it works well, but the cheap crappy steering servo/assembly in these $50 Evos just doesn't hold up to the added force of the spring on the knuckle. It's bad enough that my gears are going bad...and the servo is basically junk. My car handles horribly now, the steering doesn't work most of the time, and I'm losing reception. All these setbacks are beginning to make we want to get rid of this thing....in time I guess. I need to find a parts car to take stuff off....

Has anyone done any researching a better servo for the Evo? there's gotta be something that could work with some modification. This has become the "archilles heal" of the Xmod...as well as the crappy controller/reception.

thank god for my mini-z.

Roketmini
2008.01.02, 12:16 PM
I just re-read this whole thread. I got a newer Xmod Evo (Transformers Barricade) for christmas. I have the bearings in it, and when I get home I plan on working on making the front suspenstion bind less. It seems when I compress one of the sides (right front I think), the screw is binding on the tie rod. I'll do some experimenting when I have access to my tools. It's definitley getting some new tires soon, I need a whole new set. I have a Atomic Stock motor I can drop in too...upgrade to hardwiring. I'll post up my results when I get a chance.

Also-I'm going to need a new body...I have some plans to make my current one into a show-car. I have some of the truck "bling" wheels...should I fit my Overland Cayene Body on?

Roketmini
2008.01.04, 12:53 PM
Well here goes my build:
I got the bearings installed. The drivetrain is alot smoother now, but the front wheels don't spin very easily. This is probably from the grease in the bearings, so once I start using some oil on them they should loosen up a bit more. I also installed a Atomic Stock motor, and hardwired it it with some 12-14 ga. wire (I'm not sure the exact size, it came with a Tekin Esc I got). Nothing has been done to the body yet...I plan on getting an autoscale for it when I have a chance. I put on a set of BBS style mesh rims too-I think they're lighter than the stock ones.

One thing to look for: the defective paint on the grille. It seems whoever was doing the paint messed up. Its pretty obvious.

Pics:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/Roketmini/IMG_0756.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/Roketmini/IMG_0750.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/Roketmini/IMG_0751.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/Roketmini/IMG_0744.jpg

The caps on the motor are 470somethings. Huge yes, but I think they'll work alright. I also liked the idea of shrinkwrapping the antenna.

yamar6
2008.02.11, 01:12 AM
Do you think if i call GPM.that they would make better servo gears.or some one that knows how to make gears out of derlon would be cool.i sold my first xmod and just bought the cop car.im doing everything Kel did.But im worried if i break a servo gear then im stuck.Okay...after testing this setup for about a week, I've concluded I don't like it. I like the concept of it, and it works well, but the cheap crappy steering servo/assembly in these $50 Evos just doesn't hold up to the added force of the spring on the knuckle. It's bad enough that my gears are going bad...and the servo is basically junk. My car handles horribly now, the steering doesn't work most of the time, and I'm losing reception. All these setbacks are beginning to make we want to get rid of this thing....in time I guess. I need to find a parts car to take stuff off....

Has anyone done any researching a better servo for the Evo? there's gotta be something that could work with some modification. This has become the "archilles heal" of the Xmod...as well as the crappy controller/reception.

thank god for my mini-z.

greekone
2008.02.11, 02:03 PM
I doubt they would.

TheRandom1
2008.04.20, 03:33 PM
I just got an xmod today (Bumblebee for 20 bucks, not a bad deal) and I think this thread is going to be VERY useful while I'm starting on some mods for it. Is there a good (cheap) way of getting a little more ground clearance from the car? The front two screws for steering are sticking low and seem to get hung up on EVERYTHING... even the carpet in my living room which is probably where I would end up running most of the time.

wight
2008.04.20, 03:57 PM
I just got an xmod today (Bumblebee for 20 bucks, not a bad deal) and I think this thread is going to be VERY useful while I'm starting on some mods for it. Is there a good (cheap) way of getting a little more ground clearance from the car? The front two screws for steering are sticking low and seem to get hung up on EVERYTHING... even the carpet in my living room which is probably where I would end up running most of the time.

You can replace them with the shorter screw.
It restricts the suspension travel but a friend of mine did this to his and got away with it no problems.
First thing to do to an xmod evo is to get bearings and alloy wheels shafts.Bearings will remove a lot of wheel wobble but bearings and wheel shafts really removes a lot of wheel wobble.
Not only that but you will be surprised at how quickly the plastic bearings wear.

chung3j
2008.06.15, 05:40 PM
I suggest using toe-in. I've had MR02, MA01 and Evo's and the only way I can ever get the Evo to be anything close is by using toe in to compensate for the bad steering center. By the way, do any of you have problems with the battery covers falling off?

Thanks

chung3j
2008.06.15, 10:42 PM
I do, but I think it is the battery springs. The batteries are being pushed out by the springs and in turn pushes the cover off. Maybe the GPM part would remedy this. It would also lower CG!

minizracer23
2008.08.22, 10:00 AM
my barricade came with a blue differential gear, i am also making a racer it has suspension and steering upgrade, foam tires, stage 2 and polroid 900 mah nimh batteries.

Tjay
2008.08.22, 11:52 AM
Just wanted to post my first mini-scale rc :)... xmod aka skunk2racing hehehe...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v175/1ofdfew323/rsxmod4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v175/1ofdfew323/frnt5zigen.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v175/1ofdfew323/enginebayred.jpg

eztuner12
2008.08.22, 02:09 PM
TJ
How can Ipost pics like that, not as attachment:confused:
Thx
Cheers

Tjay
2008.08.22, 02:32 PM
I use this... [IMG] [IMG/] ;)

eztuner12
2008.08.22, 04:57 PM
This is my first mini Xmod awd evo full power & mini gang
Cheers
Ps. Just can't post the pics so had to attach them:(

Tjay
2008.08.22, 05:14 PM
http://minizracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25371&d=1219441987

Richard! Open up your mail box.

eztuner12
2008.08.22, 08:38 PM
http://C:\Documents and Settings\pavilion\My Documents\My Pictures\eztuner mini- gang 025a.JPG
Testing

color01
2008.08.23, 03:13 AM
TJ -- OMG I've seen your Xmod before! But I thought that whoever built it must've been a total noob for hacking open the body like that. :p


Here's my former Xmod/Iwaver hybrid, I traded it off for a Mini-Z later (which I subsequently sold to work on the MRCG). Loved this thing to death, and it could drift pretty well too. :)

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9145/stidisplay021qt9.jpg

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/8572/stidisplay018ep9.jpg

Tjay
2008.08.23, 11:25 AM
TJ -- OMG I've seen your Xmod before! But I thought that whoever built it must've been a total noob for hacking open the body like that. :p

yeah I posted it before :lol: I drag race real car for competetion atleast every summer... When I did this, my friends and I drag race it at a basketball court :).

Btw, I didn't know an xmod can look like that! Richard's and yours looks real good. I guess that's what you call "a race worthy x-mod".

color01
2008.08.24, 04:08 AM
Mine was relatively mild for a hybrid Xmod, just an Iwaver shell and body and modified Cirrus servo. Gen 1 cars are pretty much free-format if you want to take it to a higher level, you can do things like Pro-Z did with his 1st Pro-Z TCZ.

I haven't seen anyone mod an Evo to that extent yet, but IMO it would be worth the effort to. Richard's car is already touching the current 'limit' of modification for Evo chassis cars. :)

eztuner12
2008.08.24, 12:07 PM
Thx guys
It performs like it looks, even faster than my Mini-z; the only problem is the crappie Tx. I was thinking in swap in a mini-z AM unit to be able to race it in an RCP track, but I really have fun with it just racing it on the floor or on the tennis court. BTW it drift like the real thing:):):D.
Cheers

FastTRX
2008.10.26, 07:43 PM
Constantly I find myself coming back to my xmod for some reason. IDK...its like a mini RC addiction withdrawal. Because these were my introduction to mini-Zs (the Z purists shall stone me for these comments...:eek:) I just can't get enough of trying to make them better and have more fun tinkering on them with the Z.

And now RS brings back the Xmods now W/O removable crystals...NICE!! This is just great! Lets make something that sucks already just horrible! IDK what else they have "improved" on but I'm slightly curious to see.

All this banter has made me realize I wish I still had my gen. 1 RSX. I agree with Color01's comments on it's definitley easier to take the Gen. 1s to a whole different level, but not to say the EVO lacks potiental. And BTW those CF decks that Color01 has are tight....

eztuner12
2008.10.27, 12:55 AM
Hi FasTRX
So there is a new Xmods?
Are you saying they are fixed crystal? :confused:
If thatís so, it is terrible not been able to change frequencies:eek:.
I was planning to swap an mini-z AM PCB to my full modified loaded Evo (you can see some pics at the last post on page# 7 at this thread) But a friend told me to hold-up because RS, was coming out with a new Xmods with a transmitter and PCB similar to the Mini-z, in fact he told me it was better than Mini-zs, I guess he was BSing me.:(
Cheers

FastTRX
2008.10.27, 10:42 AM
Hi FasTRX
So there is a new Xmods?
Are you saying they are fixed crystal? :confused:
If thatís so, it is terrible not been able to change frequencies:eek:.
I was planning to swap an mini-z AM PCB to my full modified loaded Evo (you can see some pics at the last post on page# 7 at this thread) But a friend told me to hold-up because RS, was coming out with a new Xmods with a transmitter and PCB similar to the Mini-z, in fact he told me it was better than Mini-zs, I guess he was BSing me.:(
Cheers

Rich,

Yea RS just came out with two new Xmod Evos. There's a thread in Mini RC...should have pics. I think the two bodies are something like a 66'-67' black mustang and a nissan GTR in silver. The GTR looks cool but I'm not all that into the mustang. The fixed crystal thing is just retarded.

For all I know..the pics on atomic's website show the same POS transmitter so it looks like they didnt incorporate a new system there. Idk if your friend was BSing you or not on that one. One thing I do commend RS on is the fact that they are constantly changing their line on the XMods. They seem like they're trying to better them with small changes and new bodies but really they're just running backwards. If someone (who knows something about PERFORMANCE mini RC's) could just tell them what to do...

I dont think the XMods will EVER be as good as a mini-z out of the box straight from RS...but dont give up hope. The best that can happen is enough improvements on the Evo's to give us a platform we can really work with.

yamar6
2008.11.15, 10:10 AM
I just picked up the GT-R. They beefed up the chassis alot.So im going to throw in a mini z board in it.I would realy like to put a 2.4 z in it.All i have done so far is GPM F & R knuckles and cvd's.GPM motor heat sink and all the radio shack up grades i already had.Made the chassis a med.and threw my gen 1 vette body on.waiting for the R8 to come out and get that body.im selling a brand new GT-R body with clip.

yamar6
2008.11.15, 10:16 AM
Off topic... but will someone race a evo with a MA-010.Of course a mr-02 will kill a evo but race awd vs awd.i think it would hang with the MA-010.

eztuner12
2008.11.15, 10:57 AM
Off topic... but will someone race a evo with a MA-010.Of course a mr-02 will kill a evo but race awd vs awd.i think it would hang with the MA-010.

I am not pretty sure a Mini-z AWD would kill an Evo AWD The only problem with thw Evo is the crappy electronics. I have an Evo loaded and it handles just right regarding chassis performance, but just hate the transmitter and PCB
Cheers

Action B
2008.11.15, 01:18 PM
Off topic... but will someone race a evo with a MA-010.Of course a mr-02 will kill a evo but race awd vs awd.i think it would hang with the MA-010.

You think an MR-02 is that much better than an MA-010? There was a whole thread on this and a lot of people on this forum who race competitively vouch for the MA-010 as an equal if not better platform.

http://www.minizracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29181&highlight=hfay+competitive

yamar6
2008.11.17, 11:49 AM
the evo chassis it's self is a better set up.I know mini z are better.But im sick of guys saying that i beat an evo with my mini z mr-02.take a stock ma-010 with bearings and a stock awd evo with bearings and see how the race goes.I just want to see how much better that the car is.The xmods are built to be AWD.You think an MR-02 is that much better than an MA-010? There was a whole thread on this and a lot of people on this forum who race competitively vouch for the MA-010 as an equal if not better platform.

http://www.minizracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29181&highlight=hfay+competitive

arch2b
2008.11.17, 12:02 PM
my whole gripe with xmods has always been more about the electronics, nad less about the slop in the parts. even the ma-010 has some slop but i atleast have the confidence i do not have to follow my car around to use it. so long as rs sticks with the crappy electronics, it will always be an inferior product.

i've seen this too many times to count. last year, nekocon 10, we race cars in an enormous exhibit hall and xmods did not fare well at all while you could drive a mini-z as far as you could see it. a well built chassis is for not if you can't control it, simple as that.

i have seen some very quick and nimble hybrids, xmods evo with kyo electronics. they turned some very quick lap times.

but to your point, i don't think you really can race them head to head unless your talking about a single or double wide l track. as soon as you get some distance, the car characateristics won't matter. i have NEVER had a single xmod make it around a track the size of say pn worlds/regionals. hell, i've rarely seen one finish a race and DOW used to race them all the time when we have inter club events. were talking practical experience, not just conjecture and xmod bashing.

one positive improvement on the new series should be the light weight bodies, compared to the previous series.

eztuner12
2008.11.17, 06:13 PM
Hi,
I personally like more the Evo suspension system over the Mini-z AWD, as well as the weight distribution, the Evo is proactively perfectly balanced and the motor is positioned in a better place too same with the steering servo. My only issue with the Xmod Evo or any Xmod in fact is the crappie Tx and Rx.
When it comes to modifications you can up-grade the Xmod to itís max including the chassis, on the other hand you have to live with the crappy chassis of the Mini-zs.
It is very hard to evaluate them two in the track, since the Mini-zs have a good Tx and Rx, this makes a whole difference between them.
Cheers

yamar6
2008.11.18, 11:09 AM
i think if you put a mini z board in the evo it will give the Ma-010 a good run.I wish the evo had more adjustments to it like the Ma-010.But thats just someone like gpm or atomic to make different knuckles for front and rear.Or even the company that makes the evo.

Traveler
2008.11.18, 07:48 PM
one positive improvement on the new series should be the light weight bodies, compared to the previous series.

Arch2b,

I didn't realize the new bodies are lighter. What info do you have on this? Do you have weight comparisons by model?

I haven't touched my XMODS since I got into Mini-Zs earlier this year, but all this XMODS talk is making me want to pick them back up. I have a huge collection of Gen1 and EVOs but none of the new body styles.

arch2b
2008.11.18, 07:58 PM
i read they are now using single mold bodies, no more screws, accessory kits, etc. with snap in plastic glass.

FastTRX
2008.11.18, 08:05 PM
Yep...they are pretty much killing off the body kits for them. This means that some of the bodies dont have removable bumpers, side skirts, etc....so there are less screws. Not sure if any weight is saved since I'm assuming that they have used thicker plastic in the new bodies for extra reinforcement and the consistency that comes from Xmods is already is pretty low so I'm guessing some bodies will be heavier than others.

I would doubt you'll see minimal to any weight savings...but I could be wrong. You would almost have to buy a few of them and weigh each one to see if they really are consistent. Like I said above I would highly doubt it. They are just too cheap to be highly precise. I guess the chassis parts have been reinforced though, which is a plus.

They are planning on coming out with an Audi (thats the word anyhow) so I hope to get my hands on one around christmas. I'm like you Traveler....after picking up a mini-z...I dont use my xmods as much. They are still fun though.

Traveler
2008.11.18, 08:19 PM
Thanks for the responses. I may pick up a new EVO when they go on sale before Christmas. A-t-o-m-i-c-m-o-d-s has stats on all the old Gen1 and EVO bodies, including weight, but they have not updated for new bodies although they are selling them.

As much as I love my Zs, 2 Pros for the XMODS are price and almost indistructible bodies. I've broken many an ASC body, but never an XMODS body. I hope the new ones are as stout.

rickyb
2008.11.18, 08:44 PM
i raced evo's for two years before getting a mini z, now i dont drive it at all because the response is so slow. how can i fix this besides changing the board? my car has all the mods and i still want to use it. please help does the bigger tx ant. work? if so how did you make it fit?:confused:

yamar6
2008.11.19, 08:19 AM
I bought a new GT-R evo.The body is lighter because you have pop out windows and no extra plastic to bolt on bumpers.The pros that i like about the new evo is they beefed up the front and rear gear boxes where they screw in.Plus the rear that is green is made from a different plastic.

what they should have done was put a AM or FM ESC,A real servo saver and took out the wobble out of the wheels.i still get a little wobble with bearings GPM knuckles and cvd.But it don't hurt the driving.

FastTRX
2008.11.19, 03:07 PM
I bought a new GT-R evo.The body is lighter because you have pop out windows and no extra plastic to bolt on bumpers.The pros that i like about the new evo is they beefed up the front and rear gear boxes where they screw in.Plus the rear that is green is made from a different plastic.

what they should have done was put a AM or FM ESC,A real servo saver and took out the wobble out of the wheels.i still get a little wobble with bearings GPM knuckles and cvd.But it don't hurt the driving.

Have you tried the gpm tie-rod yet? This may also help to eliminate a little bit of slop. I dont think you'll ever get rid of it all but it could help. I know if you read the early pages of this thread Kel used one on his Evo. He said it helped a slight bit. I may put one on mine after I get done putting more money into the Z...:D

yamar6
2008.11.19, 04:12 PM
what im worried about is the servo gears with the gpm tie-rod.i wish gpm or atomic would make some gears and a servo saver.i have GPM knuckles and cvd and i still have a little wheel wobble.Is there anything else i can do.Is atomic wheels have a tighter fit on the shaft.Have you tried the gpm tie-rod yet? This may also help to eliminate a little bit of slop. I dont think you'll ever get rid of it all but it could help. I know if you read the early pages of this thread Kel used one on his Evo. He said it helped a slight bit. I may put one on mine after I get done putting more money into the Z...:D

rickyb
2008.11.19, 04:33 PM
any ideas for a new guy on the site??

FastTRX
2008.11.19, 05:36 PM
what im worried about is the servo gears with the gpm tie-rod.i wish gpm or atomic would make some gears and a servo saver.i have GPM knuckles and cvd and i still have a little wheel wobble.Is there anything else i can do.Is atomic wheels have a tighter fit on the shaft.

While the servo gears suck, I dont think the alloy tie-rod would create alot of stress on the gears but the problem would be if you hit something hard enough, the impact could chip the teeth on the gears since the alloy doesnt give like plastic. My experience with the Evo servo gears proves that they are very brittle and break easily. Delrin servo gears would be a solution but like you said, no one makes any. Just use your body at all times and if your on RCP you'll probably be ok anyways.

A servo saver is a great idea, but idk how it would fit in there. It is already pretty tight, it would take a bit of engineering to get one that would work with the stock servo as well as fit in the front of the chassis. Using one from a mini z could be a possibility, but all new linkages would need to be reconfigured...and the Z saver is a bit on the bigger side. Plus it still doesnt make up for the weakness of the cheap gears. This could be done though....hmmm....project anyone?

yamar6
2008.11.19, 05:41 PM
i was reading how some guys ca glue there bearings in the alum. knuckles.Can you get them out after you put them in.

FastTRX
2008.11.19, 05:46 PM
I imagine with a bit of heat and a small screwdriver you could probably get them out. It just depends on how long you want them in there. It's like the guys that lock their differentials up permanently. If you're ok with having them locked forever...go for it. What I dont understand is why they would do this? The stock wheel stubs should have the play in them...not the bearings and knuckles together. Especially if they're both alloy.

GPM makes alloy wheel stubs or axles....just like Kel used in his project.

yamar6
2008.11.19, 06:48 PM
i have all gpm and i still have a little wobble.

yamar6
2008.11.19, 09:06 PM
i found tie-rods by hotracing.They have 3 different ones.Which one is good for a track. 1.5, 3.0 or 4.5

FastTRX
2008.11.19, 10:02 PM
The 4.5 will be the greatest amount of toe-in which will provide a tighter turning radius but will give a slight amount of oversteer. But with Xmods it doesn't quite matter too much because the lag in the Tx will make up for that anyways...:p

I would say a 3 degree would be a happy medium for an RCP...or 4.5 if you want a tight turning car.

Traveler
2008.11.19, 10:25 PM
i have all gpm and i still have a little wobble.

If you put a shim on each axle and then put on the rims, that should take care of it. Just don't over tighten the nuts.

yamar6
2008.11.20, 09:23 AM
im going to put a mini z board in my evo.So i'll get both tie-rods.

what size shimes...should they be the same size has the bearing

eztuner12
2008.12.01, 09:17 PM
Any of you interested in buying this Xmod Evo Super Pro, It is practically new maybe 30min run. It is loaded with options 95% aluminum, front /rear Atomic adjustable diff Spider turbo= 2X8 FETís carbon center axle Lipo battery & charger, 98mm wheel base, ďno wigglesĒ, solid and smooth, very fast great for drifting and racing. For more details pics and offers, contact me at ezcorp@codetel.net.do

http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq219/eztuner12/eztunermini-gang025.jpg
http://i449.photobucket.com/albums/qq219/eztuner12/eztunermini-gang026.jpg

bmxtrev
2008.12.01, 09:22 PM
with these xmods, i actually liked my gen1 better, because it had much more gentle steering. the evo's amount of steering is too much for the crappy electronics to handle, imo.

eztuner12
2008.12.01, 10:02 PM
If you are planning to go with Mini-z PCB board on gen1 the motor will melt the board
The upper chassis plate of my MXS-PRO(Xmod Super-Pro) is a perfect platform for a mini-z board
Btw It rides better than the Gen1 I had a few and no comparison with this one
Cheers

FastTRX
2008.12.01, 11:02 PM
eztuner12...are you still running the stock servo on that beast?

I see all billet alum until where the servo sits. Didn't know if you have something hiding in there or not...:cool:

eztuner12
2008.12.02, 09:38 AM
eztuner12...are you still running the stock servo on that beast?

I see all billet alum until where the servo sits. Didn't know if you have something hiding in there or not...:cool:

Hi FastTRX
I just don't like to have any metal or conductive material @ electronics. That's why I keep the original servo case and a plastic composite top chassis plate;) This baby rocks, but I need the space.
BTW, the rear body post & clips can be remove to fit regular Xmod body shell.
Cheers

FastTRX
2008.12.02, 10:53 PM
So it is the stock servo then? I'd try sticking a hi-tec in there if it were me. It looks mean. How's it do on the track?

eztuner12
2008.12.03, 09:48 PM
So it is the stock servo then? I'd try sticking a hi-tec in there if it were me. It looks mean. How's it do on the track?

It is very fassst much faster than any Mini-z Ihave seen and handles great Only problem on a track is the Xmods electronics not very predictable but to race at the floor, tennis court or paved street it is superb And it drift sweet:D:D:D

yamar6
2008.12.10, 01:20 PM
I just bought Hotracing front and rear knuckles.The rear has no wheel slop at all just like my 1:10th scale.The front is a different story they don't line up right so my dogbones shift to the rear so you don't get the full throw of the stearing.I called the toyz and he said they never had problems but he is sending me a new pair.i put my front gpm ones on and ca glued the bearings in so they just have a slight wobble and i still have play in my hotracing tierod.So im going to a fishing store and buying shrink tube and putting it over the screws why you have to use the fishing one is because it's a plastic not a rubber material.I just ordered hotracing front shock tower and bottom skid plate im leavning the rear lowering kit to even the car out.Next is going to be Atomic ball diffs( if they fixed the problems), ceremic bearings,Atomic black dish rims (have to rig my gpm cvds)and a 2.4 mini z board( i look at this way if im not happy with the car i'll take out the board and start building a MA-010 from scratch.So far im happy with the car just hate the electronics in it.For now maybe i can find a good used Ma-010 AM esc.for good price.

J-Milz
2009.01.12, 03:31 PM
Hi I too tried to improve my Mod to be a good enough preformer as a mini Z. However if you add up how much you spent (wasted) you could have had an awsome Mini Z. Its like tuning a Kia to beat a Vette- Why?

Skv012a
2009.01.12, 03:49 PM
From what I gather, if you're gonna spend $230, for example, doing a 130$ 2.4 Z and 100 worth of upgrades (or even $40 if you have to buy KT18) will get you much further than a $30 mod and $200 worth of any upgrades. Changing radio = buying a Z. Buying half of parts in aluminum still leaves the rest of the plastic ones to break on you. IMO xmods are to have a custom body move around, but not racing by any means.

okoye
2009.01.12, 05:02 PM
+ 2 i fully agree on that one why waste your money on an xmod? they're like american muscle cars good for going in straight lines

Jace1283
2009.02.15, 09:36 PM
If anyone needs help making a kick butt xmod, pm me for help anytime

this has 2x2 FET 015 board in it and i use a helios

don't let anyone tell you you can't make a race worthy xmod. I beat 2-3 ma-010s in 3 finals, 10 minute races, they have finally caught up to me but its their driving and very well setup cars at this point. I think they were unhappy losing to this and dropped quite a lot of cash into their ma010s and tuning time, haha idk maybe maybe not. I came in third/4 last time i raced it, but guess what? I came in 3rd/4 when i used my 2.4 ma-010 yesterday! I'm not done with this Zmod and know i can still be very competitive with it, i've just about finished all the bolt ons and will be lightening it up once i get a pn 70t which runs cooler, thus being able to lose the gpm motor mount.

literally the only stock things in the driveline are the driveshaft gears, everything else is GPM and carbon driveshaft. you can see everything else...mini-z board and more gpm.

a REALLY important fix is behind the tie rod. look at the underside pics, youll see gray double sided foam tape and plastic on the tie rod side. cut out a piece of packaging like kyosho or something and put 3 layers of foam tape, if you want specifics PM me...

also you see the chrome screws on the upper rear lowering arm? those stop the rear from swaying, you dont want the sway which is why there's holes there to put screws

also shave the axles flat on the other side to accept ma-010 wheels. you also want to use a widebody body...350z, tc, lancer, nsx

my zmod went MUCH straighter with AWD, also i dont think a 2wd xmod is worth it...i feel this is more in the ma010 class than mr02


2 videos of it, start 2 minutes in when we get a groove: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdsHPZpidQs&feature=channel_page
watch from 3 minutes in for good driving
http://ccmmmk.multiply.com/video/item/37/Heat2_AWD_Open_A_Final_1_17_09.wmv

http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/21320121/351811459.jpg
http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/21320121/351789283.jpg
http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/21320121/350163573.jpg
http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/21320121/354955040.jpg
http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/21320121/354955163.jpg
http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/21320121/354954797.jpg

greekone
2009.02.17, 02:23 PM
Why only GPM shocks in the rear?

Jace1283
2009.02.17, 04:00 PM
Why only GPM shocks in the rear?

stock spring work fine up front, car has tons of turning/steering. on the back i needed something softer, the gpm kit comes with softer springs than the softest xmod springs. also suspension setup needs much more attention in the rear than the front of an xmod chassis.

dvsstrike
2009.02.18, 09:08 AM
j my ma 010 does not have a lot of cash in it. i still use the stock axles on it and all stock rear end. only has roughly 200 and 100 of it is the 2.4 board. and your board a from a mr01 original mini z. your car is great and goes real good. maybe when i race i should not be so nice now huh?:)

Skv012a
2009.02.18, 09:46 AM
Hey Jace, how heavy is your zmod and if you know, how heavy are your opponents on average?

Jace1283
2009.02.18, 10:13 PM
j my ma 010 does not have a lot of cash in it. i still use the stock axles on it and all stock rear end. only has roughly 200 and 100 of it is the 2.4 board. and your board a from a mr01 original mini z. your car is great and goes real good. maybe when i race i should not be so nice now huh?:)

haha, i tell you to stop being nice all the time T. Ok so your MA-010 is 300+(you have diffs, aluminum knuckles + suspension, you got more than 300 in that), my Zmod is $220. Don't make me make a 2.4 xmod T, don't do it...lol, thats not gonna happen, i like the instant reverse too much.

Hey Jace, how heavy is your zmod and if you know, how heavy are your opponents on average?

oo i forget exactly, one of the guys weighed his with no gpm and open bearings and it was like 12% heaver than a ma010, not sure if thats after or before batteries though, i dont have a gram scale, sorry, i am curious myself so next time i can get a scale i will measure

Skv012a
2009.02.18, 10:32 PM
Because your experience of weight being stability when hit or when hitting others intrigued me and thats the first focus of my Street SupremaZy project. I may weight my xm and batteries just to compare, but I somehow doubt it being that much heavier.

Hmm, my stock, 350Z with veilside 3, 4 duracells, and RWD weighs 213ish grams.

Then my question is as follows: if normal MA10s are about 190g and xmods are 210, then what is the minimum weight required for MA to be able to soak up xmod bumps without veering off course? This very question easily applies to MA vs MR since their weight difference ranges from same 10-20 grams.

Jace1283
2009.02.20, 04:15 PM
actually the stability may have more to do with the low center of gravity with the batteries being flat and also the suspension of the xmod, of course weight will also factor into that

rwd...so if you make it all wheel drive you'll add a center shaft, diff, and dogbones, but still, im surprised at how light your xmod is, there is plenty to shave off xmods, thats for sure. do you have ball bearings? that puts the xmod a bit behind with weight as the wheel bearings are about twice the size of ma010 wheel bearings

Skv012a
2009.02.20, 05:14 PM
No bearings and yea, I'd imagine AWD junk adding enough weight on top of it. Ever convert narrow rims for Xmod to try it without wides all around?

yamar6
2009.03.05, 05:54 PM
mine so far....thanks to jace1283 i can put on MA-010 wheels.Also my chassis weighs 138 grams.It's the long chassis with F & R GPM knuckles & cvd, AWD & full bearings.The street vette body they make is 36 Grams.Total is 174 with out batteries.I have GP 1100 batteries and they weigh 58 grames total of car right now is 234 Grams.I don't know if 750 batteries weigh less and a carbon fiber shaft will be lighter.

Jace1283
2009.03.11, 10:26 AM
glad you like the axles and the ma010 rims are looking great. im still trying to figure out whats up with your body, the front and rear is off which is very strange, what rear clip are you using in the rear, got a picture? anyway your project is coming along nicely, a carbon shaft will certainly help in the 98mm because the steel shaft is long, carbon will wear out though so if you can find aluminum or titanium long ones that would be good, im using carbon in mine

eztuner12
2009.03.12, 01:03 AM
Hi Jace1283
That's fine driving, I see in you red truck video:eek:
Cheers

Jace1283
2009.03.22, 05:50 PM
Hi Jace1283
That's fine driving, I see in you red truck video:eek:
Cheers
thanks

so i got a gram scale and did some weighing.
Chassis, body, and batteries:
-MA010 194g
-Zmod 228g
15% heavier on the track and lower COG

my ma010 has alloy rear and and im running the sc430
zmod has nsx with body kit which makes the car heavier than it has to be

other weights:
-010 chassis 106g
-sc430 body 39g (reinforced)
-zmod chassis 132g
-xmod nsx body w/kit 47g(weirdly the same weight as my reinforced mini-z nsx(TD)
-batteries 49g intellects

i have been using my ma010 but after being put in the wall several times last night of racing i brought out my zmod and beat all my heats previously set by the ma010. It was A LOT more fun driving the zmod! :) not to mention i beat 2/3 racers just about every heat i raced it.

yamar6
2009.04.14, 05:13 PM
i was not around for awhile but the corvette sits like crap.I have the stock front and rear clip.I like the body but it fits on the chassis funny

merc3des
2009.04.16, 01:24 PM
My two Zmods are both 2wd, and extremely competitive. I wanna run them against some 02s, to see if the Xmods platform can actually compete.

check it out:
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31467

eztuner12
2009.04.16, 02:14 PM
Hi merc3des.
Now that I see you acmexmods chassis, do you know how the designer for this chassis is doing?
Last time I knew about him, he was not so well after a car accident, as the wife explained to me, some brain issues.
Did you get the chassis recently or a few years back?
BTW, nice cars!;)
Cheers

Skv012a
2009.04.16, 07:25 PM
Merc, if your weight will match 02s and you put in a Z 2.4 boards in, they prolly can. But like I say these days- if you're gonna go the 100$ length, why even bother putting that board ina xmod?

merc3des
2009.04.17, 02:59 PM
Well, I got the chassis through a website that has had it stocked for years now. I'm only 14, so I haven't been in to RC for a long time. I heard the same thing, but I thought it was just rumor. Glad you like the cars, I'm not completely finished on the first one yet. I sold the one with the AcmeXmods chassis, wish I never did...

yamar6
2009.04.26, 09:39 PM
A little up date on the xmod but i need help on what body i would like to go with maybe a mini z body.But im so picky that i would like to know which body fits good on a Med. chassis.So far i just bought a carbonfiber shaft.ma-010 rims and tires need sticker ones for the back soft red springs in rear and stock up front.trying to find a good used mini z board with a brake.

yamar6
2009.05.01, 11:07 PM
found the body im useing it fits on a Med. chassis.Xmods just came out with the R8 here are some pics.Also it's built like the mini z body no screws to hold nothing on and windows pop out.

eztuner12
2009.05.01, 11:13 PM
:eek: Niiice Audi body!
So it is a 94mm whell base?
Thx
Cheers

ScottGTO
2009.05.02, 08:11 AM
I am new to the mini rc world (other than heli's)
Couple questions, what/where do you guys get your battery chargers what what kind is the best to get.
Another question, I have heard negative things about the AWD kits for the xmods. Some say the center shafts are too long, there is binding and clicking, others say the aftermarket ones are too expensive.
Any input?
Thanks

Skv012a
2009.05.02, 10:31 AM
I may try this, if not raceworthy, then at least drivable aka 2.4 now that I got another 02 to waste and part.

yamar6
2009.05.02, 10:41 AM
all you have to do is file down the shaft almost 2mm and test fit it.I am new to the mini rc world (other than heli's)
Couple questions, what/where do you guys get your battery chargers what what kind is the best to get.
Another question, I have heard negative things about the AWD kits for the xmods. Some say the center shafts are too long, there is binding and clicking, others say the aftermarket ones are too expensive.
Any input?
Thanks

yamar6
2009.05.02, 10:46 AM
i think it's a little longer the short is 93.5mm and the long is 99mm that was on atomicmods site.there was no med yet:eek: Niiice Audi body!
So it is a 94mm whell base?
Thx
Cheers

ScottGTO
2009.05.02, 11:06 AM
all you have to do is file down the shaft almost 2mm and test fit it.

Thanks. I picked up a used XMOD from greekone and am going to run down to radioshack and pick up an AWD kit. I have left the chassis in the shortest wheelbase configuration.
What size are the wheel bearings. Are they the 2mm or 2.5mm. I just need to pick up one from local HS.
Also, where can I get a full parts explosion from?
sorry for all the noob questions. :)

yamar6
2009.05.02, 12:13 PM
do not buy the bearings from radio shack order them from ebay i think there VXB.just search xmod evo on ebay for the full parts i would search on google one of the xmod sites have it but i don't know which one.You can try ***************Thanks. I picked up a used XMOD from greekone and am going to run down to radioshack and pick up an AWD kit. I have left the chassis in the shortest wheelbase configuration.
What size are the wheel bearings. Are they the 2mm or 2.5mm. I just need to pick up one from local HS.
Also, where can I get a full parts explosion from?
sorry for all the noob questions. :)

Skv012a
2009.05.02, 12:33 PM
Try to buy AWD and ANY hop ups off people too,ALOT of us got em on 2 years ago 1$ clerance. Lights, AWD, rims, tires, everything was 1$. I got my first Evo back then, 30$ Bumblebee + all hop ups i needed and not for 1$ each cept the motor set.

ScottGTO
2009.05.02, 05:43 PM
Try to buy AWD and ANY hop ups off people too,ALOT of us got em on 2 years ago 1$ clerance. Lights, AWD, rims, tires, everything was 1$. I got my first Evo back then, 30$ Bumblebee + all hop ups i needed and not for 1$ each cept the motor set.

like an idiot when I got my used XMOD I disassembled the whole thing to check it over and clean it and I cant figure out how to put it all back together.
I have been searching the web for hours and can't find a parts diagram/parts explosion anywhere.
Can someone point me to one please

eztuner12
2009.05.02, 06:25 PM
like an idiot when I got my used XMOD I disassembled the whole thing to check it over and clean it and I cant figure out how to put it all back together.
I have been searching the web for hours and can't find a parts diagram/parts explosion anywhere.
Can someone point me to one please

Hi ScottGTO/
No stupid it happens too many of us in some occasion;)
Check this site;
http://www.biline.ca/xmods_mod.htm

Hope it aids!!!
Cheers

ScottGTO
2009.05.02, 08:10 PM
Thanks EZtuner. I got it by just comparing pictures of the car while trying to piece it together.

ScottGTO
2009.05.03, 06:19 PM
I have been able to get the car put back together by looking at a couple pictures on the web. I can't believe how sloppy the parts fit on these cars, how heavy and slow it is too. I have bearings all the way around except in one wheel (was missing when I bought it, and is extremely sloppy in the wheel with no bearing). I got the AWD upgrade from the shack and have the grey plastic bushings. Maybe if I get the remaining bearings it will be a bit quicker.

yamar6
2009.05.03, 09:38 PM
out of the box the xmod evo is faster then the MA-010.I used GPM knuckles and cvd's and have no slop only a little in the front.Also put MA-010 rims on because the xmod rims are not round at all.But you have to shave the shafts

yamar6
2009.05.05, 05:38 PM
Just bought GPM Adjustable front knuckles....I hope they are good and not like the HOTRACING adjustable ones.Im thinking about buying the GPM front shock mount would this do anything or just a bling factor.

Skv012a
2009.05.06, 02:03 AM
What did those run you? I've never seen that kind before.

yamar6
2009.05.06, 03:52 PM
12.95 shipped i'll Pm u the siteWhat did those run you? I've never seen that kind before.

Skv012a
2009.05.06, 04:42 PM
I'll take you up on that offer dude. Looks like I may be sticking my spare 2.4 board into Evo rather than gen 1 now ;)

Honestly I'm just curious to see how a 2.4 xmod chassis would fare against Zs.

eztuner12
2009.05.06, 06:23 PM
I'll take you up on that offer dude. Looks like I may be sticking my spare 2.4 board into Evo rather than gen 1 now ;)

Honestly I'm just curious to see how a 2.4 xmod chassis would fare against Zs.

That would be a superb project:eek: let us know the outcome if you go for it:)
Cheers

Skv012a
2009.05.06, 08:51 PM
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/skv0124/Xmods/2_4-Evo1.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/skv0124/Xmods/2_4-Evo2.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/skv0124/Xmods/2_4-Evo3.jpg
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/skv0124/Xmods/2_4-Evo4.jpg

So far so good aside from servo not recentering which I'll look into later tonight or tomorrow/day after.

I didn't solder anything to or from the Z board, so stock servo and pot are used flush.

I had to flip the servo, so Mars' reverse steering came in handy here. Servo is also super fast, so I'd have to setup Mars to respond like a turtle.

yamar6
2009.05.06, 09:31 PM
does anybody know if the mini z pot has more steps then the evo pot.Is that how they work by steps.If so i wounder if we can put the mini z one in.The problem is the evo one has clips on the side and the mini z don't

Skv012a
2009.05.06, 09:40 PM
Read my post dude- I put in all Z stuff.

New lil issue- I got the pot connected and all, but when it recenters it sometimes becomes very jittery before it settles down and sometimes not perfectly in the center. Any thoughts?

yamar6
2009.05.06, 10:01 PM
how did you clip it in the z pot it's just flat and the evo pot has clips on the side.Read my post dude- I put in all Z stuff.

New lil issue- I got the pot connected and all, but when it recenters it sometimes becomes very jittery before it settles down and sometimes not perfectly in the center. Any thoughts?

Skv012a
2009.05.06, 10:38 PM
Actually im working on a way to 100% secure it using a spare 02 assembly pieces. I'm cutting the long piece that secures the pot to fit that area and making sure it doesnt wiggle. Will post the results after.

Right now it can rotate ever so slightly even when clamped together by front gear box cover's bars for the original pot.

eztuner12
2009.05.06, 11:54 PM
Actually im working on a way to 100% secure it using a spare 02 assembly pieces. I'm cutting the long piece that secures the pot to fit that area and making sure it doesnt wiggle. Will post the results after.

Right now it can rotate ever so slightly even when clamped together by front gear box cover's bars for the original pot.

Looking real good man:)
Why don't you just use the Xmod om Pot? it is a fine pot!:confused:

Let us know as soon you try it on the road.

Thx
Cheers

Skv012a
2009.05.07, 12:42 AM
Cuz there's no way I'm soldering anything on/off a 90$ board for a 30$ toy. Its that simple.

By adding that holder it seems much better, just loses dead center when coming to center from 1 direction, but I wonder if it'll keep at it after I bum down the travel via remote. Also I'll bum down the steering speed and that'll hopefully take care of eveything.

Last mini-update is that I tweaked my bong (pot holder LOL) to accomodate the front diff for AWD setup.

eztuner12
2009.05.07, 11:38 AM
At Atomic mods they did the swap with a mini-z AM PCB using the OM pot from the XMods and no centering issues raised neither glitching.
Cheers

Skv012a
2009.05.07, 02:37 PM
Its pretty much fine now, after i secured the hell outta the pot. And again man, I don't plan on committing this board to the xmod. Its my backup board that I'm just putting to a better use rather than just keeping it in a box.

Skv012a
2009.05.08, 01:58 AM
http://www.dailymotion.com/user/Skv012a/video/x97xm0_xmods-ultimate-upgrade-king-of-king_tech
or
http://s452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/skv0124/Xmods/?action=view&current=king24vid.flv

Dig it.

eztuner12
2009.05.08, 02:58 PM
http://www.dailymotion.com/user/Skv012a/video/x97xm0_xmods-ultimate-upgrade-king-of-king_tech
or
http://s452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/skv0124/Xmods/?action=view&current=king24vid.flv

Dig it.

Yep The King!:eek:
How did you like the handling Vs Mini -z?
Congrats & thx vor the vid
Cheers

Skv012a
2009.05.08, 07:48 PM
handles sorta the same, but I'd have to track it before any real comparisons.

Kel
2011.12.21, 08:22 PM
My blue skyline x-mod from this thread is up for grabs PM me