View Full Version : Are mr-015 a good starter setup??

LiL Mini-z
2007.07.14, 11:47 AM
I wanna race and i really like this one car (Kyosho Mini-Z Vauxhall BTCC Astra Coupe MR-015 RM ReadySet #17014) but i own a rcp track and i want to start racing.Also what should my first upgrades be and how much would it run for(price).

please help me out.

2007.07.14, 11:58 AM
check the shop, see the link above. http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=17014

it's certainly a nice looking body:)

2007.07.14, 02:45 PM
I like that body too, but by far my favorite body is the Red Bull Audi or maybe it's the new Ferrari 360 GTC or the Ferrari 575 GTC, well I have lots of favorites :)

LiL Mini-z
2007.07.14, 05:49 PM
But are thy good starter cars like whats the diffrence between the mr-o15 and the mr-02??? What ones a better racer on a rcp track?

2007.07.14, 06:08 PM
The MR-02's better, lower center of gravity, and wider wheelbase, It's a more stable car overall..

2007.07.14, 10:32 PM
That's why I like the MR015 for new drivers, the MR02 is too stable. The MR015 has a little better response to the controls. You feel more connected to the car. I also like the MR015 for the Mini Tile 96 track, the MR02's you will be making three point turns. The MR02 seem's to be the pick for your larger club tracks.

The only real difference is the main chassis tub, and a few small parts (small parts set that fit's the tub, and the proper size tie rod). Just look at the sticky threads at the top of both the MR02 and this section. What you see in the pictures is about it. About every upgrade MR02 part you can get can also fit the MR015.

I think the motor pod choice MM mid motor, RM rear motor, HM high motor, has more effect on handling than the main tub has. Both the MR02 and MR015 can run these setups.

In the end it comes down to what body do you want to run with.

LiL Mini-z
2007.07.15, 08:54 AM
Thank you but how much more money will i have to invest like what is the first thigs i have to buy?

2007.07.15, 11:54 AM
Thank you but how much more money will i have to invest like what is the first thigs i have to buy?
Here is a list and the car really needs only the first 2 or 3 items.....
then you can hop up as you need too....if you buy them all at once put the parts on one at a time and see the results....as the car gets faster you must revisit your suspension and drivetrain set ups.....
tires $5 per pair
elastic stop nuts for the wheels $5 (4)
bearings $7 and up
rear shock or damper $8 and up
polished king pins $5
spring set for king pins $5 and up
T plate $10 and up
ball diff $20 and up
hop up motor $15 and up
motor pod $15 and up
FET stacking (not sure of price)

2007.07.16, 10:30 AM
i had a 01 and the gear broke now on saturday the 14th of july i got a vw gti 015 but am also wondring if it is as good as a 02 i read that it has only similar batt packs to mr1 but is like a 02 in all other upgrades

2007.07.16, 06:59 PM
Yes, in fact you can fit all the MR01 bodies on the MR015. Some of the tight fitting ones are very difficult to fit the MR02, with the batteries setting wide and wider front end design. If you are used to driving the MR01, the MR015 is a little smoother on turns.

For me I like the pitch and roll action from the MR015, it gives a more realistic feel to the driving experiance. After driving the MR015 and going to my MR02, the MR02 feels like a city bus. It might be very hard to roll it, but on a tight track I have a hard time keeping off the rails.

2007.07.17, 01:09 PM
To go racing, the only things I would add is tires, motor, a damper and motor mount. The standard disk damper runs $15 for a 3Racing one to $25 for PN or Atomic. Or use Kyosho oil damper for $16. Damper is a must, otherwise you get skipping in the corners. Second thing is a motor mount. They run $20-$30. Adjusting backlash is important to extend gear tooth life and reduce friction. You adjust while motor is turning. Adjust until gear noise has just gone away. Tires, I would go with PN 8 deg radial rear and 10 deg slick front $8 total. New PN ones are actually pretty consistent now, and grips better than the Kyosho radials. The best motor for stock class is a speedy 07 from PN. They are about $20. A speedy 05 is pretty fast too for $9 if you are just starting out. These few parts will allow you to be competitive and get a feel for the car. They will probably last quite a while. As they wear out, then get upgraded parts. First thing to wear out is probably the motor pinion and tires. Get some delrin one for replacement. I use steel ones from RS4, and they last forever. Good for practice, but adds rotational weight for racing, and not as balanced as delrin ones. Save the delrins for actual race.
Leave the plastic bearings there for now. For stock racing, they are plenty good. The worst thing that can happen if they wear out is you get more slop. They actually last pretty long. No need for ball diff either. The ring gear might feel loose when stopped, but once it gets loaded up by the motor, it self centers, then it runs as quiet as a mouse. That is why you must adjust while motor is running.
No need for stainless steel king pin if you are in a dry area that do not have rust problems. Take some fine sand paper and sand the black oxide coating off. Lube it with some dry lube or better yet, damping grease. I used white lighting for bicycle chain because is there. Works great, but a little bouncy.
Don't worry about springs, H-plate or chamber knuckles for now. The stock chassis actually handles pretty good already. Get those after you get a very good feel for the car. Otherwise, you can't even tell the difference.

2007.09.03, 01:27 PM
If you want to race with speed and integrity go with MA-02... MA-015 is pretty much for design and normal driving according to my observation. MA-010 is great too for drifting. Pretty much MR-015 is really good for stater setup.

2007.09.07, 09:17 AM
If you want to race with speed and integrity go with MA-02... MA-015 is pretty much for design and normal driving according to my observation. MA-010 is great too for drifting. Pretty much MR-015 is really good for stater setup.
I wouldnt say that. We run an 015 spec class (Kyosho box stock motor). On average, I run 1 lap less in those than I do in the 02 class with Speedy 07BB. Straight away speed is about the same, there just isnt as much torque so line has to be a bit better.

On my 015s I prefer them to have a little push, to keep them from rolling as much. I am currently using the Chrysler 300C, since it is MM.

These are my parts that I use:
Tires 8d rear, 30d front or 10d 3racing (depends on what track I am running on)
disc damper (PN ML fiberglass one is my favorite)

MR02 and MR015 do not need many parts to make them competetive. I try to avoid alloy as much as I can. The more you add on an 015, the more it will roll. I remove the upper section of the windows on the body to reduce center of gravity and reduce traction rolls.