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View Full Version : Diferences between Atomic Stock and Atomic Stock AWD


sefe
2007.08.08, 08:18 AM
Hi,

I'm wondering wich diferences exists between the Atomic Stock motor and the Atomic Stock AWD motor.

I actually own an Atomic Stock AWD motor, and I'm wondering if I can mount this motor on my MR02 +30%.
I'm afraid of burn my FET's, or something like.

Moreover, I'm wondering if the performance of the Atomic Stock AWD motor could be similar to the Atomic Stock motor on an MR02.

Thank you very much.

hrdrvr
2007.08.08, 10:28 AM
I always thought the only difference was the location and quantity of capaciters. I read somewhere on here that the AWD motors have a little more tourque, but I cant notice a difference myself.

IDK if there is a difference in the winds, but never was interested enough to check into that.

As long as your MR02 is equpped with the 3010 FETs you should be good. You may have to rearrange the capaciters to get it to fit into the mount though.

jbevins
2007.08.08, 04:47 PM
I don't know this for sure but I've read something somewhere that the AWD motors have a larger comm, thus more torque but I don't know this to be true

cowboysir
2007.09.16, 03:01 PM
I'm trying out an Atomic stock in an AWD and upon examination it has a large comm.

I'm curious to find out if anyone has felt resistance from the brushes on the atomic stock motor. I've run it and have had some issues with heavy drag brake so I removed it from the AWd and tested armature spin with and without the brushes in place...it seemed to have some heavy friction.

Anybody else?

btw, I'm attempting to "break-in" the brushes a bit but I'd like to see if anyone else can shed some thoughts on this situation. ;)

mk2kompressor
2007.09.16, 08:43 PM
awd motor has bb's,neo mags and fat comm,
the windings look very similar to the atm stock arm i have.
ive run one in an 02 with 3004 fets with no issues(stock diff and 8th pinion)
:)

locwan
2007.09.17, 04:42 PM
I took my AWD stock motor apart to clean out the arm, and saw that on my motor, one of the 3 copper plates on the comm. is blacked out.. anyone else's AWD motor is like this? This is very unusual.. I've never seen any motors designed this way.

hrdrvr
2007.09.17, 05:01 PM
I'm curious to find out if anyone has felt resistance from the brushes on the atomic stock motor. I've run it and have had some issues with heavy drag brake so I removed it from the AWd and tested armature spin with and without the brushes in place...it seemed to have some heavy friction.

Anybody else?

All the atomic motors Ive ever run seem to have a lot of drag brake built in. I assumed its a symptom of the strong magnets and high torque. Its a trait Ive learned to drive with, but take that into consideration upon set up and motor choice for certain cars.

The new Stock R has ridiculous torque, and also ridiculous brake. I can let go of the throttle from full speed and the car stops within 3 feet. With the same set up and a stock K motor it rolls like 10'+.

Im about ot try it in my RPMz toy car, as it doesnt have a brake function :D This is how Im gong to get brake I guess :P

cowboysir
2007.09.17, 06:56 PM
Thanks for that hrdrvr...I thought something was seriously wrong with the drivtrain. After a lot of steps to check the issue I came down to the motor having very strong drag brake.

Since I'm trying it in an AWD(which doesn't have near as good a roll as the MR02) do you think I should:

1. Try a different motor?
2. Switch one or both magnets out?

lfisminiz
2007.09.17, 07:57 PM
I wish there were more motors with less drag brake. Prefer the Kyosho x-speed. Pn speedy isnt to bad either.

locwan
2007.09.18, 12:19 AM
imo, if the magnets are switched out to weaker ones like the ferrites used in X-speed and speedy motors, you'll bascially lose all that punch and high torque that makes these motors desirable especially in an AWD.

What you can do to have less off throttle braking is to adjust the throttle trim until you get the same rolling distance when letting go fo the throttle. This will let you keep the torque, but have less off throttle braking.

Aurora
2007.09.18, 10:14 PM
I agree with lfisminiz that some of the PN motors do offer similar kind of torque, but in a more linear fashion and more 'rolling'. If compared between the late Chilli and Xeric, I'd choose Xeric for its linear torque and also the more 'rolling', for easy off throttle coasting.

But all in all, I do think these motors with stronger magnets are totally different animal than the ferrite magnet motors, and it seems to require more trigger discipline to manage the coasting on AWD.

Another viable option to manage these torques is to use the setting card to take away the 'punch' of the motor, by setting the 'DRIVE FREQ' to 'high'. :D

Toodeep
2007.09.18, 11:19 PM
I like the CHilli. Lots of power and torque with lipos. 20-30min of run time. But it gets really hot.

Brother melted his car down.

i like to see how fast my setup is.

hrdrvr
2007.09.19, 08:15 AM
cowboy, either of your solutions should work ;)

Ive akways liked the punch and dealt with the drag brake. Ive kind of adapted it to my style because way back in the day the first xmod upgraded motor I got was an atomic. I was naive at that point and thought it just to be a factor of upgraded motors. I found it to be much different now that Ive tried out a few brands.

I just got a stock R and man it has hella drag. I havent chosen what car to install mine in yet (only test runs in my audley car :P), but my buddy with and AWD enzo put his in immediatly. If you let off from full speed the car stops in +/-3'. The car has freshly cleaned bearings and the magnets still stop it that fast. He says he likes the punch and will learn to drive it as is. Im passing him in the first sweeper with a stock K motor though, cause when he lets off it almost comes to a complete stop before he gets back on it.

I dial some forward throttle in to loosen up the set up on atomic motors now, but Ive really been liking the PN motors. I have an FET Stock, and a Speedy05. Both of them are much more linear than the atomic. My fastset best handling AWD still has an XspeedV for AWD. IMO its the fastest best motor in the AWD, atleast of all the ones Ive tried and seen around my track. This is of course on stock FETs. There are definatly much faster motors once you start upping them.

I dont really want to mess with my xspeed, but Ive got a buddy who has kind of fallen out of racing. His AWD with Xspeed has been sitting on a shelf in my office for months. I think Im going to heist the arm and try it in an atomic can, and switch one of the atomic arms to it. Id like to see how that effects everything.

Ive heard of a few people running atomic arms in Xspeed can, but now with the better atomic cans, Id like to try the reverse. IDK when Ill get around to it, but Im actually going to go talk to my friend right now.

Oh yeah, and Flash has stated on a few occasions that he likes the mixed magnet set up. It gives a little extra punch without adding too much. It would be worth a try to swap out one of the magnets for a ferrite.

Flashsp-2
2007.09.20, 03:38 AM
Oh yeah, and Flash has stated on a few occasions that he likes the mixed magnet set up. It gives a little extra punch without adding too much. It would be worth a try to swap out one of the magnets for a ferrite.

A little off topic, but that is definitely a great compromise between way too much drag brake and not enough punch. As long as you are using the armature in a smooth ball bearing can, you shouldn't have any issues. And always make sure you have the armature shimmed properly, with no binding and no more than 1-2mm of play. If you are using the stock/PN style cans, make sure the brushes aren't sitting past the end of the comm either, as they sit further up than the ATM style brushes. Thus concludes my motor101 class :D

cowboysir
2007.09.20, 10:11 PM
Well, upon a full break-in and another tear down and spin test the brushes still caused way too much drag brake. I could not glide more than 8 inches with the motor after a number of attempted fixes. I tried a tiny bend of the brush arms, removing one shim for a bit more armature play and one ferrite magnet swap. None of those made any difference...so I swapped to a typical closed bell bearing can and now I have lots of roll. :D