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idreamz
2007.08.25, 03:54 PM
Hope you guys don't mind if I put this one up here. Thought it would be fun to share, it's simply what the title suggests, a scratchbuild chassis under a custom body.

Actually when I started this build I had quite vast ambitions, it was supposed to have functioning front wheel brakes and remote controlled clutch, enabling it to do standing burnouts. Well after 100hours of building I have to confess there was no way I could fit brakes in the cramped front areas. The electronic box simply took too much space and it wasn't even good, 4,8v was not enough voltage so I couldn't go full throttle. This was before the glorious Micro T age.

Anyway, enough rambling, here's some pictures:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/4254/chassissidefx4.th.jpg (http://img86.imageshack.us/my.php?image=chassissidefx4.jpg) http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/9130/sideabovesceneryrg5.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sideabovesceneryrg5.jpg)

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM0yVQxQBSs

Lesson learnt: use small electronic kits in this kind of builds.

Fovea3d
2007.08.25, 04:20 PM
Cool project, and very nice body! I recall having seing your video on youtube. Very interesting design with the motor front and rear wheel drive like the real thing.

I had a project of this kind with a 1/24 Dodge Challenger
1 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/070709adapt-tamtech/challenger1.jpg)
2 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/070709adapt-tamtech/challenger2.jpg)
3 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/070709adapt-tamtech/challenger3.jpg)
I intend to use the Kit (Revell) chassis and put a 130 motor front with a Mini-z AWD transmission shaft and bearings, also an AWD dogbone for the articulation of the shaft near the rear axle. Electronic and servo are from a Micro-T and are small enough so I can hide them and still build the interior. The battery (4AAA holder) fits in the trunk :D Only component I did not find at that scale is a rear axle with diff in one piece... It should also have leaf springs rear with leafs made of carbon or from some clock spring :D

Your chassis design is cool! Why did you not use plastic instead of wood to build it? How is the overall handling with the motor up front?

marc
2007.08.25, 10:15 PM
idreamz, cool project and I've seen that before on Youtube, but your pictures are way to small. Could you please enlarge theme and repost? Thanks!

HammerZ
2007.08.26, 03:42 AM
You can click on them for a larger image, just have to fight off the pop ups.

idreamz
2007.08.27, 08:57 AM
Thanks. I have a thread of this at the ripper 7 racinge forum, with some more pictures, some of them in larger format. I didn't know that imageshack had so many popups. I use opera webbrowser, so I tend to avoid this kind of stuff.

http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/showthread.php?t=1075


I had a project of this kind with a 1/24 Dodge Challenger
1 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/070709adapt-tamtech/challenger1.jpg)
2 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/070709adapt-tamtech/challenger2.jpg)
3 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/070709adapt-tamtech/challenger3.jpg)
I intend to use the Kit (Revell) chassis and put a 130 motor front with a Mini-z AWD transmission shaft and bearings, also an AWD dogbone for the articulation of the shaft near the rear axle. Electronic and servo are from a Micro-T and are small enough so I can hide them and still build the interior. The battery (4AAA holder) fits in the trunk :D Only component I did not find at that scale is a rear axle with diff in one piece... It should also have leaf springs rear with leafs made of carbon or from some clock spring :D

Your chassis design is cool! Why did you not use plastic instead of wood to build it? How is the overall handling with the motor up front?

Wow! Yours looks much more interesting, I especially like the idea of keeping the interior and using the kit chassis. Everyone seem to question wood as a building material but I didn't see any plastic materials on in my lhs last time I was there. I should take a closer look next time to see if I can find plastic bars, it's really a good idea. Metal not so easy to work with.

I've seen somewhere there's a thing called Super Slick Monster truck that uses live axles in their truck, maybe if you can get hold of one of these? Otherwise I think it should be not too hard to make oneself, with a AWD diff it will be quite big but I think you should still be able to do it.

As for the handling mine is rubbish. Actually it's a bit hard to tell because the electronics don't like 4,8V only, the throttle cut's off if I rev too high and the servo twitches. But trying to brake it spins out, accelerating too hard it spins, trying to do anything on the limit makes it spins out. Despite the motor and batteries being in front it is actually still heavier in the back, I would estimate a 55% rear. I hoped to improve braking handling by giving it brakes in front wheel but that was too hard to do.

Good luck with your project! Would be just too cool when it's finished :)

Fovea3d
2007.08.27, 10:38 AM
I've seen somewhere there's a thing called Super Slick Monster truck that uses live axles in their truck, maybe if you can get hold of one of these? Otherwise I think it should be not too hard to make oneself, with a AWD diff it will be quite big but I think you should still be able to do it.

Thanks!
Yes that was what I was thinking at first but since I have read that the SSMT axle has no differential I can not use it :rolleyes: I am thinking now of a 1/32 slotcar axle with differential from the brand Vanquish.
Well building an axle from scratch around an AWD diff may be a last option if I don't find anything that fits.
I have found out that the micro-t electronic and servo are the best for these kind of projects. They are small and affordable and the esc can handle a 130 motor as well as 4AAA batteries so it can actually run like a mini-z. On the Dodge I can hide the RX under the back seat, and the tiny servo under the dashboard ;)
Thanks for the link on the other forum, you make nice pictures! Well wood for your chassis does the job, it is just unusual :)

idreamz
2007.08.29, 11:45 AM
I'm sure you'll find a solution to the axle thing, and I'm sorry I can't come up with better ideas as I lack experience in building. Though I think you should be careful with being too optimistic with the available space, in my builds I always find the stuff taking more space than I thought from start.

By the way I have a painted 1/25scale revell '69 dodge charger vinyltop, that you can have if you only cover the shipping. All interior parts included, though I've started on the engine and painted some parts but most parts are still on their molding frame. Unfortunately the painting which is in british racing green (body) and black roof, is not too bright as it has some dust particles are stuck on it (no expert skills here). I thought you can have it for practice and experimenting so you challenger will come out perfectly. If you're interested I can take some pictures off it and post it here.

I bought this body long time ago and thought I was going to build my next scale custom on it but after the mustang I've lost some interest... Besides, next time I'd use a 1/18th scale diecast (no painting required :D).

Fovea3d
2007.08.29, 03:19 PM
I'm sure you'll find a solution to the axle thing, and I'm sorry I can't come up with better ideas as I lack experience in building. Though I think you should be careful with being too optimistic with the available space, in my builds I always find the stuff taking more space than I thought from start.

By the way I have a painted 1/25scale revell '69 dodge charger vinyltop, that you can have if you only cover the shipping. All interior parts included, though I've started on the engine and painted some parts but most parts are still on their molding frame. Unfortunately the painting which is in british racing green (body) and black roof, is not too bright as it has some dust particles are stuck on it (no expert skills here). I thought you can have it for practice and experimenting so you challenger will come out perfectly. If you're interested I can take some pictures off it and post it here.

I bought this body long time ago and thought I was going to build my next scale custom on it but after the mustang I've lost some interest... Besides, next time I'd use a 1/18th scale diecast (no painting required :D).

Wow thanks re: the Dodge Charger! I will send ou a MP. I am sure I can give it live ;) BTW, if you need some kit body painted you can send it to me as well and I can do it for you.
Starting a project from a 1/18 die cast is also one of my interests but currently I focus around Mini-z size projects.
A RC 1/18 minichamps with all its details should be stunning! Only problem is the weight of the body so the electronic and motor should be much stronger, components from 1/18 RC cars should work IMO. On Minichamps there is even a working suspension that reproduces the original engineering and could be used as is, the springs are very hard on static models but they just need to be replaced by much softer ones. That should be interesting to see how it handles, especially with the added weight. Should be slow but would handle very realisticly (banking in curves, droping at braking, etc ;) Even the original steering bar and knukles could be used, though they may be a little fragile.

About my Challenger re: about space, you will see on the pictures what I meant, the servo is located at the feet of the passenger position, one half of it being inside the motor compartiment near the steering bar. The receiver will be hidden under the back seats, maybe I need to raise them a bit and the battery holder fits exactly in the trunk. I am thinking of making an opening rear pannel where the bumper and tail lights are attached so I can have an easy access to the batteries. The weight of the batteries in the truck may also help doing wheelies I think :D
The transmission shaft would be exactly where the original plastic one is located, inside the floor tunnel. Only problem is this rear axle as previously mentionned. Oh and I intend to keep everything in place with micro bolts (no glue) and maybe scratch build some of the plastic components that would brake during the testdrives. Using the kit parts may result in something very fragile but it is definately not intended for racing, also I am quite used of driving precious bodies now :D

1 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/061212Projets/cha01.jpg)
2 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/061212Projets/cha02.jpg)
3 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/061212Projets/cha03.jpg)
4 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/061212Projets/cha04.jpg)
5 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/061212Projets/cha05.jpg)
6 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/061212Projets/cha06.jpg)

PS: sorry for the OT in your own Mustang thread ;) I know I should create my own topic for this project but it is currently on halt because of this rear axle problem :rolleyes:

idreamz
2007.08.31, 03:35 PM
I've checked the shipping charge, it's approx 7 euros, with the box and all (some risk for overshooting, which would bump the cost to 13 euro which ruins the deal). If I extract all the plastic parts from their frame and put everything in a smaller box I believe I could get the shipping fee down to 4 euros. So anytime you're interested just send a PM...

BTW, if you need some kit body painted you can send it to me as well and I can do it for you.
Thanks a lot for the offer! I've a 05 mustang kit that I'm going to build in future, with a twist of course and it'll be honored to get a paint job from you :)

(...)
A RC 1/18 minichamps with all its details should be stunning! Only problem is the weight of the body so the electronic and motor should be much stronger, components from 1/18 RC cars should work IMO. On Minichamps there is even a working suspension that reproduces the original engineering and could be used as is, the springs are very hard on static models but they just need to be replaced by much softer ones. That should be interesting to see how it handles, especially with the added weight. Should be slow but would handle very realisticly (banking in curves, droping at braking, etc ;) Even the original steering bar and knukles could be used, though they may be a little fragile.
(...)

Wow! that's cool, I never thought die-cast cars were that functional. Actually I've already bought a Maisto 1/18 Hummer H2 Playerz series. For that I plan a 130-class iwaver iStock motor, mated to a 1/18 buggy electronics and a 3 gear dogbox with a stellar final gear ratio of 250:1 on lowest gear (rendering a speed of approx 0.1m/s). On the highest gear it's supposed to go as fast as a Mini-Z though acceleration would be nowhere close to it. Unfortunally the Maisto diecast is far from that functional so I gotta do all chassis myself.

(...)
About my Challenger re: about space, you will see on the pictures what I meant, the servo is located at the feet of the passenger position, one half of it being inside the motor compartiment near the steering bar. The receiver will be hidden under the back seats, maybe I need to raise them a bit and the battery holder fits exactly in the trunk. I am thinking of making an opening rear pannel where the bumper and tail lights are attached so I can have an easy access to the batteries. The weight of the batteries in the truck may also help doing wheelies I think :D
The transmission shaft would be exactly where the original plastic one is located, inside the floor tunnel. Only problem is this rear axle as previously mentionned. Oh and I intend to keep everything in place with micro bolts (no glue) and maybe scratch build some of the plastic components that would brake during the testdrives. Using the kit parts may result in something very fragile but it is definately not intended for racing, also I am quite used of driving precious bodies now :D (...)

Looking at the pictures I start to realize why you need a compact rear axle...

This is slightly off-topic but if you build plastic parts you might want to look at moldable thermoplastic, you just heat it over 60 celcius and then shape it the way you like it and it'll harden when it cools. This process can be repeated again if needed:
http://www.clasohlson.se/Product/Product.aspx?id=8740520
I don't know if they sell this in France but it seems like a promising material for scratchbuilding. I've bought one pack and am going to try it out when time allows.

(...)
PS: sorry for the OT in your own Mustang thread ;) I know I should create my own topic for this project but it is currently on halt because of this rear axle problem :rolleyes:

No problem at all! Your build has made this thread much, much more interesting :)

Fovea3d
2007.08.31, 06:28 PM
Thank you very much. I will send you a MP about that and the paint for the Stang.

Glad to read that you have a similar project with a 1/18 Hummer. But I think the gearbox makes it much more difficult to achieve! Yes the acceleration should me slow with die cast bodies but after all, it would also accentuate the realism... It is good to drive Mini-z that go full speed in a few seconds, but scale speed and scale acceleration may be fun too ;) BTW 200 km/h at 1/18 scale is already 11 km/h scale speed, not that bad...

I show you some pics of one of my Minichamps. As you will see it screams to be RC :D With the use of small RC components it looks it could keep its appearance and show its secret only at close observation ;) It is a small car. At 1/18 scale that Fiat is barely the size of a Mini-Z F1...
01 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/Minichamps01.jpg)
02 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/Minichamps02.jpg)
03 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/Minichamps03.jpg)
04 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/Minichamps04.jpg)
05 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/Minichamps05.jpg)
06 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/Minichamps06.jpg)
07 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/Minichamps07.jpg)
And this to give you an idea about size and where will go each component:
08 (http://alain.galluser.free.fr/Z/Minichamps08.jpg)
Too bad AAA's won't fit in the front lid. Need to build a special sized battery pack from smaller elements (1/2 AA's?). There would be a hole at the passenger feet to stick the servo further. The steering bar is just there behind. A 130 size motor should be at ease in the engine compartiment ;)

Thank you for your link. Interesting material. There is another solution for custom parts. My job is 3d modeler and I am used in designing small components. With a 3d file at hand you can make a prototype part in ABS plastic out of it, for instance: here (http://www.redeyerpm.com)
Unfortunately it is still expensive, I asked for a quote for a Mini-z shell and it would have costed $250 for 1 piece! It may look interesting for much smaller parts like a diff but sadly there is a minimum pricing at RedeyeRPM.
I may continue looking for other companies because it is just so incredible way to fabricate parts... creating them with a CAD software, send the file through the web and receiving the plastic part in the mailbox a few days later :D There are also several companies here in my area that have these RP machines, this kind of service is spreading fast and may be more economical in a few years I guess.
So much projects, so little time :rolleyes: This si why I currently just paint and mount custom bodies on my mini-z chassis...

idreamz
2007.09.16, 10:47 AM
Hello there Fov! That Minichamps looks absolutely fantastic! I never thought they'll have such a high degree of functional detail. Are all Minichamps like that? I could easily think of a 1/18 muscle car...

I've read about methods of "printing" 3D models, but this is first time I heard about this as commersial service. $250 sounds steep indeed but let's hope the price go down a bit, at least this would make life easier for inventors. I think you're quite lucky to work with 3D modelling. I often find myself getting ideas about car body designs and mechanical parts but I can't express it because I lack skills in either 3D modelling and drawing. (Right now I'm having an idea about a hop-up diff for say MA-010, a conventional bewel gear type diff in aluminium but with the added bonus in having a adjustable locking mechanism).

How is the build going with your Challenger? Since school started I've not even got time to read this forum regularily. I'll send you another PM now, if you didn't receive it propably got stuck in the spam filter (the one you sent me nearly got deleted that way).

Fovea3d
2007.09.20, 01:39 AM
Hello there Fov! That Minichamps looks absolutely fantastic! I never thought they'll have such a high degree of functional detail. Are all Minichamps like that? I could easily think of a 1/18 muscle car...

I've read about methods of "printing" 3D models, but this is first time I heard about this as commersial service. $250 sounds steep indeed but let's hope the price go down a bit, at least this would make life easier for inventors. I think you're quite lucky to work with 3D modelling. I often find myself getting ideas about car body designs and mechanical parts but I can't express it because I lack skills in either 3D modelling and drawing. (Right now I'm having an idea about a hop-up diff for say MA-010, a conventional bewel gear type diff in aluminium but with the added bonus in having a adjustable locking mechanism).

How is the build going with your Challenger? Since school started I've not even got time to read this forum regularily. I'll send you another PM now, if you didn't receive it propably got stuck in the spam filter (the one you sent me nearly got deleted that way).

Hi Idreamz!

I guess all the Minichamps are like that. I have another one wich is my very first car, an Opel Kadett Coupe from 1975 and the functionning details are the same. Yes a muscle car would be great, especially if you can fit a big "electric" block under the hood, kind of like my Challenger project. But then you will have the same problem for the rear axle, maybe easier to solve because it is 1/18?
Commercial "rapid prototyping" services are spreading fast. I guess in the close future RP printers should become available to the public kind of like laser 2d printing evolved back when it was a costly service at xerox shops in the beginning. 3d modelling is not that hard when you have a background of technical drafter wich is my case. You just need to be right with the measurements. Of course it should be more economical to design small RC parts like MA010 diffs for instance, because what is pricy in RP is the material itself and time taken to "fuse it" in layers.
Well the Challenger is still in the waiting of a rear axle. As soon as I find a solution for it I will finish it, I guess it will be a matter of a week because every other design details are clear for me. I will post about it as soon as it is finished.

idreamz
2007.09.23, 05:53 AM
Cool, looking forward to that.

Did you get my 2 PMs? I'm planning to send the box as it is and there's room for another 150g. Do you want me to throw in an iwaver istock/iplus motor?

Fovea3d
2007.09.23, 09:27 AM
Cool, looking forward to that.

Did you get my 2 PMs? I'm planning to send the box as it is and there's room for another 150g. Do you want me to throw in an iwaver istock/iplus motor?

Hi idreamz!
No, but I think the PM's are disabled on this forum. You can send me an e-mail instead, galluser@fovea3d.com
Thanks for the IW motor, I never had the chance to check them out, great! ;) Let me know what you need (Mustang kit painting).