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yamar6
2007.09.14, 02:28 PM
did anybody buy the new improved firelap 2.0.i just ordered one and i want to know if it is better then the black & gray chassis.

hrdrvr
2007.09.14, 02:55 PM
Yes.

Its better than the old black and grey chassis from what I can tell so far.

yamar6
2007.09.14, 03:15 PM
whats the dif. plastic better and electronics Yes.

Its better than the old black and grey chassis from what I can tell so far.

hrdrvr
2007.09.14, 03:46 PM
Overall its less gittery. The first two times I ran my old one I broke a knuckle (soft impacts), and the chassis was cracked wihtin two weeks. I drive hard, but almost always on a carpet track with foam walls. Ive got 5 Zs all older then the first FL I bought, I drive them more, and none of them have sustained any thing other than body damage. This one hasnt broken anything yet in two trips onto the track. The plastic looks a lot stronger, but I guess only time will tell.

My initial observations of things that are definatly better:

1. The electronics much smoother, throttle and servo.

2. The parts fit together much better. On my first one it was impossible to get a good gear mesh because the motor clip and pod wouldnt fit together properly. The mesh on this one was perfect out of the box.

3. Speed is noticaby stronger. Even after adding a couple of different motors to my previous one I gave up on it, because the speed was just not there. Id say this one is comprable to my dads new mr02 right out of the box, stock for stock.

4. The tires that come on it are better than the previous, and even stickier than kyoshos stock tires. I wish the front ones were a little less sticky because it gets ton of oversteer. Id rather have a little push and dial it out with suspension and driving style.


Now dont go buying 5 of these thinking they are on the same level as kyosho. :P

I have noticed a few things allready that I havent experienced with any of the Zs Ive bought:

1. The diff is so stiff, its almost like its locked. 2 Friends of mine got them at the same time and theres arent as bad, but still no where near as smooth as a K stock diff. This teamed with the super sticky front tires is making this sucker a hard one to control.

This was my first indicator that QC was not going to be perfect.

2. This was my second indicator. The first time I took the car onto the track it wouldnt start :p It had turns, but the motor wouldnt turn. Frustrated, I took it home and began checking things. The negative motor wire screw wasnt tight at all. Tightened it and thought I fixed the problem. It ran for about 5 minutes and quit. Then I checked the motor wires again. The solder onto the motor was barely noticable, and the negative wire was hanging on by one strand of wire. The posotive wasnt much better. After soldering them on properly, I took it for its first run at the track.

3. fangel in another thread allready stated that the "servo saver" is the same design it was in the first run. Those didnt have servo savers at all. They had a piece of plastic that was the same shape as the K saver. It is shaped like it, but its all one piece, doesnt give on impact, and should be replaced immediatly if you plan on running the car at all.

The issues Ive had with this car, I had with the other. Some of the issues I had with the other car, I dont think Im going to have (or havnet had) with this one. I still think its a good buy, and a lot better than any Xmod. The Tx is worth the price of the RTR which is why I have another in the first place.

I plan to write a formal review when I get a chance to, and it will detail all my fidnings up to that point. Id lke to track test, change out the servo saver, and tune it a little before posting anything too difinitive. Within a couple of weeks I should have a LOT of info posted about this chassis.

yamar6
2007.09.14, 04:06 PM
thanks alot for the info.i bought the blue F1 they just restocked it.so im hopeing that it's a good car.i also talked to fangel and he told me if i have any problems just email him.with the problems you had im going to put a ball diff in and kyosho moter wires so if that is the only problem then i'll be happy.thanks again.Overall its less gittery. The first two times I ran my old one I broke a knuckle (soft impacts), and the chassis was cracked wihtin two weeks. I drive hard, but almost always on a carpet track with foam walls. Ive got 5 Zs all older then the first FL I bought, I drive them more, and none of them have sustained any thing other than body damage. This one hasnt broken anything yet in two trips onto the track. The plastic looks a lot stronger, but I guess only time will tell.

My initial observations of things that are definatly better:

1. The electronics much smoother, throttle and servo.

2. The parts fit together much better. On my first one it was impossible to get a good gear mesh because the motor clip and pod wouldnt fit together properly. The mesh on this one was perfect out of the box.

3. Speed is noticaby stronger. Even after adding a couple of different motors to my previous one I gave up on it, because the speed was just not there. Id say this one is comprable to my dads new mr02 right out of the box, stock for stock.

4. The tires that come on it are better than the previous, and even stickier than kyoshos stock tires. I wish the front ones were a little less sticky because it gets ton of oversteer. Id rather have a little push and dial it out with suspension and driving style.


Now dont go buying 5 of these thinking they are on the same level as kyosho. :P

I have noticed a few things allready that I havent experienced with any of the Zs Ive bought:

1. The diff is so stiff, its almost like its locked. 2 Friends of mine got them at the same time and theres arent as bad, but still no where near as smooth as a K stock diff. This teamed with the super sticky front tires is making this sucker a hard one to control.

This was my first indicator that QC was not going to be perfect.

2. This was my second indicator. The first time I took the car onto the track it wouldnt start :p It had turns, but the motor wouldnt turn. Frustrated, I took it home and began checking things. The negative motor wire screw wasnt tight at all. Tightened it and thought I fixed the problem. It ran for about 5 minutes and quit. Then I checked the motor wires again. The solder onto the motor was barely noticable, and the negative wire was hanging on by one strand of wire. The posotive wasnt much better. After soldering them on properly, I took it for its first run at the track.

3. fangel in another thread allready stated that the "servo saver" is the same design it was in the first run. Those didnt have servo savers at all. They had a piece of plastic that was the same shape as the K saver. It is shaped like it, but its all one piece, doesnt give on impact, and should be replaced immediatly if you plan on running the car at all.

The issues Ive had with this car, I had with the other. Some of the issues I had with the other car, I dont think Im going to have (or havnet had) with this one. I still think its a good buy, and a lot better than any Xmod. The Tx is worth the price of the RTR which is why I have another in the first place.

I plan to write a formal review when I get a chance to, and it will detail all my fidnings up to that point. Id lke to track test, change out the servo saver, and tune it a little before posting anything too difinitive. Within a couple of weeks I should have a LOT of info posted about this chassis.

Lunchbox1019
2007.09.14, 04:17 PM
I just got two of these in an RTR kit off EBay. How can I tell if I got the newer version or the older version of the Nanoracer 2.0?

yamar6
2007.09.14, 08:07 PM
all i know is the old one is light gray for the chassis and black top.the new one is dark gray chassis and real dark gray top.only toy east is selling the new ones so if it is not toy east on ebay you prob. got the old ones.i heard that the old one looks like the black was painted on.I just got two of these in an RTR kit off EBay. How can I tell if I got the newer version or the older version of the Nanoracer 2.0?

hrdrvr
2007.09.14, 08:36 PM
I dont think the black looks painted on (on the old ones). The chassis is a light grey where the new ones is black, IMO. In the Iwaiver forum I have an old thread titled 'ordered a Firelap 2.0'. There are tons of pics of the older chassis.

Bad news though. :( The car wouldnt move again today. I drive it around a few laps, then switched the front tires. After that, - had no throttle. There muat be another loose connection some where. This makes me doubt more the increased QC.

It got worse. The Tx only had reverse on one of the 10 settings, and a few of them had steering issues. Wether I turned left or right, the wheels turned right. I had fresh batts, but Im going to try out more thid weekend. I also tried it on multiple cars that drove fine on other Txs.

pinwc4
2007.09.14, 09:37 PM
.....
3. fangel in another thread allready stated that the "servo saver" is the same design it was in the first run. Those didnt have servo savers at all. They had a piece of plastic that was the same shape as the K saver. It is shaped like it, but its all one piece, doesnt give on impact, and should be replaced immediatly if you plan on running the car at all.
.....


As a note you can usually fix the servo saver instead of replacing it. I use a knife and just push it down on the joint on both sides. Usually with enough force you can get it to snap apart and it will work fine. Just be really careful when taking the car apart to get to the servo saver, it is really easy to break off one of those thin wires.

yamar6
2007.09.15, 12:19 AM
do you have pics of the new chassisI dont think the black looks painted on (on the old ones). The chassis is a light grey where the new ones is black, IMO. In the Iwaiver forum I have an old thread titled 'ordered a Firelap 2.0'. There are tons of pics of the older chassis.

Bad news though. :( The car wouldnt move again today. I drive it around a few laps, then switched the front tires. After that, - had no throttle. There muat be another loose connection some where. This makes me doubt more the increased QC.

It got worse. The Tx only had reverse on one of the 10 settings, and a few of them had steering issues. Wether I turned left or right, the wheels turned right. I had fresh batts, but Im going to try out more thid weekend. I also tried it on multiple cars that drove fine on other Txs.

hrdrvr
2007.09.15, 03:13 PM
Yes, but not uploaded yet. Ill get some up for you monday.

fangel
2007.09.16, 11:39 PM
Lunchbox1019,

I would like to inform you that you properly got the old version, since we only started to ship the new version in less then a month and we have not put it on ebay, so the one you got is properly the old version.

Hrdrvr,
I have reflected the problem with the soldering and the wire to the factory, and we will be making a change to them to help increase the stability and durability of the chassis.
I'm not quiet sure about the issue the one of the mode, I'm not sure if you want to try this, but you could reset your transmitter with holding the "+/-" buttons down and turning on the TX. This might solved the problem for you.

Yamar6 and Hrdrvr,
I have looked in the stock diff issue, and I understand what has been going on. Some of the stock diff has too much lubricant on it making it very difficult to rotate, clearing some of it out will help deal with the issue. By getting the fairly cheap upgrade diff with solve this problem once and for all.

Pinwc4,
That is one way to help split the servo saver, this should give much more protection to the servo.

hrdrvr,
I would like to thank you for your review and some suggestions. I have mark down and will look into many of the issue to help improve the product for the community.

2EZ
2007.09.17, 11:12 AM
I race with Hrdrvr and had the same problem with my controller (Newer one with module) stopped working on all but one mode and wouldn't work correctly in that mode. I had the older IWAVER controller with out the module so I went back to using it. Fangel if I understand I can reset the transmitter by holding the "+/-" buttons down at the same time as I turn on the TX .I plan to try this and will let you know the results.

yamar6
2007.09.17, 03:51 PM
i have the same radio from my nanodragon 2 buggy.i had no problems yet not even with the car.i hope that my F1 runs as good as the buggy.it takes to long to get something from t@yeast.

hrdrvr
2007.09.17, 04:55 PM
i have the same radio from my nanodragon 2 buggy.i had no problems yet not even with the car.i hope that my F1 runs as good as the buggy.it takes to long to get something from t@yeast.

Do you use it for multiple vehicles? The problems 2EZ and I are having didnt show up until we started messing with the different model settings.

I think toyeast was pretty darn fast coming from all the way across the world. My last shipment got to me in 10 days, 5 of which were holliday or weekend.

yamar6
2007.09.17, 05:09 PM
i guss it's fast but i wish they were sold in the states.i have my HOR bike, duratrax vendetta ST, and my nano dragon,i also used it on my revo but that is sold.but no problems at all.Do you use it for multiple vehicles? The problems 2EZ and I are having didnt show up until we started messing with the different model settings.

I think toyeast was pretty darn fast coming from all the way across the world. My last shipment got to me in 10 days, 5 of which were holliday or weekend.

fangel
2007.09.17, 09:45 PM
yamar6,
Depending on your order situation and the mailing option, I personally would have to agree with hrdrvr, since we are from all the way around the world.

2EZ,
The way to reset the TX is the press and hold the "+/-" button then turn on the TX and wait until you see "OK" on the LCD display.

I'm really not too sure about the reason why the TX has issue, but it could be a memory leak in the programming making less reliable after extensive multiplied vehicles use.

hrdrvr
2007.09.19, 07:30 AM
I reset mine this morning. Ill be trying it out at some point today, so Ill post if that fixes the problem.

hrdrvr
2007.09.26, 10:48 AM
do you have pics of the new chassis


Im a bit late on this, but here none the less. Ive been really busy lately and not had much time for pictures. My little free time has been spent on the track, not taking pictures or trying to figure out my new Tx :p

Here are some shots of the new chassis. These arent the best pics, as lighting wasnt real good, and I havent had time to set up for some good shots.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Firelap/2007-09-13053.jpg

Heres the older one sitting next to my 02 RM.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Firelap/P1170034_PB.jpg

You can see here the pic of the one thread that was hangin on to the motor's posotive lead.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Firelap/2007-09-13078.jpg

And it still sits up like an SUV. This one is WAY up there and I dont think Ill be able to get it down without tearing off the side clips and moving them up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Firelap/2007-09-13070.jpg

The back is way worse than the front.....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Firelap/2007-09-13071.jpg

....but the front is still pretty bad :p
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Firelap/2007-09-13074.jpg


The bottom of the chasis looks like the plastic fom the older model Iwaivers. I never really ran my old Iwaivers that much, so cant say for sure wether its better or not.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Firelap/2007-09-13065.jpg

I would say its most likely better than the older FireLaps as mine broke after just a few weeks of running. All my running was done on a carpet track with foam walls, so the hardest impacts it took were from other cars.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Firelap/2007-09-13063.jpg



Im going to have some time today to fugure out my Tx. If I cant Im going to be really dissapointed as its the real reason I even bought this RTR. Thats one drawback I guess to buying from overseas :(

fangel
2007.09.26, 09:57 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Firelap/P1170034_PB.jpg

Just to let you all know that this is not the one on the right is not the new chassis.

I'm sorry to hear that you are still having difficulty with the TX, since as you said the TX has really added a selling point to it. I'm really keen on helping you to deal with the TX problem, even if it means we will exchange it for you.

I hope this experience has not discourage you to buy from us again.

hrdrvr
2007.09.27, 07:55 AM
Ill shoot you an email with a description of the problems Im having. Maybe you can help me solve the problem without an exchange.

BTW, the sentance right above that pic says its "the older one sitting next to my 02 RM." ;)

yamar6
2007.09.27, 08:03 AM
the new one looks sweet.are you having problems with the new car.

hrdrvr
2007.09.27, 02:31 PM
Nah, the car is good. It seems a lot better than the previous one. As far as plastic parts go, QC/fitment is WAY better. The electronics seem smoother as well, but still lacked in the soldering category. Other than the motor wires being soldered loose I havent had any other problems that stopped the car. Some of the solder looked a little shady, but the car ran just fine after fixing the motor wires. I touched up the spots where the servo pot wires are connected, and thats about it.

I dont really like the MM configuration and am going to switch it over to RM. One good thing is the ready set comes with all the bits do this this. There is no additional parts kit you need to buy like on the Zs. Once I do this Ill be able to tell 100% for sure if it handles and performs like the Z. RM is my prefered set up, and all my 2wd Zs are currently RM. My dad has one of the new RTRs with the 3010s, so Ill do a lap time comparison before adjusting the suspension. Itll e compared with the same tire set up as well. I just need til friday to get this car ready, and we race on fridays :D

yamar6
2007.09.27, 04:15 PM
mine just came in.alli can say is wow.for the price everything is working great.my new radio feels way better then the one i got with my nanodragon.the stearing wheele is not loose and the triger feels way better.the car plastic feels odd but it looks 100 per. cent better then my iwaver.im happy i bought itNah, the car is good. It seems a lot better than the previous one. As far as plastic parts go, QC/fitment is WAY better. The electronics seem smoother as well, but still lacked in the soldering category. Other than the motor wires being soldered loose I havent had any other problems that stopped the car. Some of the solder looked a little shady, but the car ran just fine after fixing the motor wires. I touched up the spots where the servo pot wires are connected, and thats about it.

I dont really like the MM configuration and am going to switch it over to RM. One good thing is the ready set comes with all the bits do this this. There is no additional parts kit you need to buy like on the Zs. Once I do this Ill be able to tell 100% for sure if it handles and performs like the Z. RM is my prefered set up, and all my 2wd Zs are currently RM. My dad has one of the new RTRs with the 3010s, so Ill do a lap time comparison before adjusting the suspension. Itll e compared with the same tire set up as well. I just need til friday to get this car ready, and we race on fridays :D

fangel
2007.09.27, 11:21 PM
I happy that both of you are happy with your chassis, and I hope that all these trends keep up.
We are very happy to provide our customer (me and all of you) with good products at valuable price.
Please keep informing me with your feeling and review of the products so we could make it even better on up coming release.

yamar6
2007.09.28, 09:46 PM
make a AWD version.but use the xmod evo chassis design with the mini z front. with better plastic.the battery set up on the xmod evo is way better then the mini z AWD.if you do you should give me a free one for the great idea.if you want my my ideas for the chassis email me @ www.minitee@optonline.net

arch2b
2007.09.28, 10:51 PM
please don't solicite manufacturers for freebies ;) if you have requests, please use email.

fangel
2007.10.02, 05:48 AM
The idea sounds fine and properly workable (the chassis not the free sample)
We might look into this further.

yamar6
2007.10.02, 12:15 PM
i was screwing around with the free.but i love the set up of the evo.i wish a better company would remake it with better plastics and electronics.if someone would make it kyosho would have something to race with.The idea sounds fine and properly workable (the chassis not the free sample)
We might look into this further.

fangel
2007.10.02, 09:42 PM
I would agree that the weight balance is better with the EVO design, however due to the cost and the comsumer level of the product. X-mod isn't for the serious driver.

yamar6
2007.10.02, 10:37 PM
put it this way if it had a real radio and better fit plastic.it would sell.xmods sold tons of this car in the USA.but the only thing it's not a true RC.I would agree that the weight balance is better with the EVO design, however due to the cost and the comsumer level of the product. X-mod isn't for the serious driver.

fangel
2007.10.04, 02:08 AM
Well X-mod is more of a toys then a racer level chassis. The pricing really shows this.
But then it host a number of goods things that we have incorporated into iwaver.
The ease of Plug and Play is one thing.