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Cherub1m
2007.10.10, 03:13 PM
Hi everyone

I just thought it would be nice to have a post regarding the best set up for iwaver 02 M. Because Ive seen a few people post some reviews about the new chassis but none realy commented on the handling, especialy experience with racing other popular chassis.

For me these are things i think are crucial to making the iwaver handle:

1) New faster servo (i like the hitec hs 50) the stock one is to slow (.16 sec at 4.8v that is slow) as compared to the miniz

2) The upgrade shocks because it helps equalize the rear tire to the ground

3) Tire is a must. I used PN 10 degree in the front and PN 08 degree in rear

4) And last but not least bearings is a must

Now this list is not complete at all. I am sure front springs, stainless steel pins, aluminum motor mount and some other stuff may help depending on the drivers needs. I just felt these are needed to be competitive.

Also, I hope iwaver decides to put a faster servo in there kits that is comparable to the miniz's out of the box. Hint, Hint... iwaver inc. and fangel

Thank you
Cherub1m

Used2xmodding
2007.10.10, 03:48 PM
What is the strongest motor the iwaver board can handle

Cherub1m
2007.10.10, 08:25 PM
I dont know Used2xmodding. I think anything you can put on a stock miniz will work on the iwaver. I found these specs on the receiver board.

Power requirement 4.8v to 6v
Current drain 3.5A maximum continuous when motor is on.

I am guessing if the board can handle 3.5A thats is great because if I understand correctly most modified motors dont pull over 3.5 Amps. But I would ask the tech guys first, so nothing blows up.

Cherub1m

fangel
2007.10.11, 04:44 AM
Cherub1m,
it's great that you have started this thread to help other to upgrade their chassis. We actually have everything you would need in our store, from servo to spring to bearing.
Also the optional upgrade that you have suggested as well.
The kit servo isn't too powerful, we knew about this, but then we will be releasing an upgrade servo options soon.

As for the motor spec, I'm not quite sure where you got this from. But please anyone reading this thread, the spec might be outdated and putting over powering motor into iwaver might caused the PCB board to burn. I would suggest you stick with the upgrade motor we offer, or wait for additional upgrade options for now.

Cherub1m
2007.10.11, 08:31 AM
Hi fangel

I got the spec. from the iwaver usa site. I think it is outdated, but here is the link anyway:

http://www.iwaverusa.com/products/receiver.html

Thank you
Cherub1m

leonen
2007.10.11, 10:09 AM
Cherub1m,
it's great that you have started this thread to help other to upgrade their chassis. We actually have everything you would need in our store, from servo to spring to bearing.
Also the optional upgrade that you have suggested as well.
The kit servo isn't too powerful, we knew about this, but then we will be releasing an upgrade servo options soon.

As for the motor spec, I'm not quite sure where you got this from. But please anyone reading this thread, the spec might be outdated and putting over powering motor into iwaver might caused the PCB board to burn. I would suggest you stick with the upgrade motor we offer, or wait for additional upgrade options for now.


Fangel, if I recall right, I have an email from you specifically where you said that the FETs in the IW02M were the same that came with the old 01Pro PCB. Thus, they could withstand any motor. Can you please confirm one thing or the other?

Thanks.

Cherub1m
2007.10.12, 12:56 AM
Well, here is my report. I tested today not for long because today was race day and i race my MR 02 MM which was ready to race. I am glad to say no problems with glitching with the iwaver 02 M. The performance of the iwaver 02 M was ok, I can see the potential, it took me a little time to get adjusted to it since ive been using the MR02 MM. One thing that is of concern is the back suspension is very stiff and bounces around to much, any bump on the track makes taking corners difficult which causes oversteer. Once I figure out how to soften the rear supension I think the car will run well. This may be a challenge since the rear suspension for up and down is controlled by the bottom chassis and the chassis is stiffer then the regular T-plates. If anyone has figured that out please let me know.

Thank you
Philip

Cherub1m
2007.10.27, 12:44 AM
Well, I recently tested again at Maj's Hobby Show and the I waver handled well, still has a bit to much steering but after I added 2 degree of toe in it help stabilize the car and reduce the twichy steering. I also, put the front motor stay in the back and the rear motor stay in the front to allow the rear axel to move up and down during bumps. It took some trimming but its seem to help the over steer alot.

Well, got to go Ill keep posting test after test.

fangel
2007.10.28, 10:23 PM
Leonen,
I don't actually recall sending an email to you saying that the iwaver 02M has the same FET's as the old 01pro. This is due to a few reasons, we have switch factory for both electronics and plastic since the old 01pro. I could not confirm this since we do not have the old 01pro in hand to compare it with iwaver 02M. I could only confirm that the i-plus motor we have in our store is nearly the maximum limit of what the PCB could give out. Of course the i-plus motor would require some modding to work with iwaver plug and play design.

Cherub1m,
I'm glad that the iwaver 02M is performing better and better as more tweaking are given to it. We will look into add those tweaks for out of the box play. Please keep me posted about the different modification and tweaks you have added to the iwaver 02M so we could add it in the future.

Cherub1m
2007.11.04, 07:56 AM
Hi Everyone

Well, Ive come to the conclusion that the best way to improve the bouncing back-end of the 02M without spending an arm and a leg is by switching the front motor stay with the back motor stay and the back motor stay with the front motor stay. You will need to do some trimming of the rear (remember it was the front) motor stay and a small part of the motor mount to allow smooth movement. Also, all 4 screws on the shocks need to be lossened to prevent binding. You may need to add a little ca glue to the tips of the 4 screws to prevent them from coming out. Now the most important is tires 8 degree rear for sure and then you can play around with 15 to 20 degree front (those tire rating are PN racing). And last but not least take the iwaver Into20 transmitter, and make sure you have a clear and long distance in front of you and throw it as far as you can. A nice cliff in front of you will also work very well. Now, if you can find a nice transmitter that works with the rx then you are a lucky men/women Ive heard some futaba radios work i think the 3pm but not sure, you may want to ask fangel about that. What ive done is install a bane robotic esc(http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store/p/4265-BaneBots-Motor-Controller-9A-peak-.aspx) and a micro robotic 4 channel fm RX (http://www.robotmarketplace.com/marketplace_antweights.html) (this one 75Mhz Micro Receiver MBP-9G4) and used my old JR xs3 and my glitching problem and very twichy car was cured. This is no different than the miniz guys who use AD band (aka FM). I havent had time to take pics of it but when i do Ill post them or if i get to busy ill send them to someone to get it posted?

Later
Cherub1m

pinoyboy
2007.11.04, 09:32 AM
Hi Everyone

Well, Ive come to the conclusion that the best way to improve the bouncing back-end of the 02M without spending an arm and a leg is by switching the front motor stay with the back motor stay and the back motor stay with the front motor stay. You will need to do some trimming of the rear (remember it was the front) motor stay and a small part of the motor mount to allow smooth movement. Also, all 4 screws on the shocks need to be lossened to prevent binding. You may need to add a little ca glue to the tips of the 4 screws to prevent them from coming out. Now the most important is tires 8 degree rear for sure and then you can play around with 15 to 20 degree front (those tire rating are PN racing). And last but not least take the iwaver Into20 transmitter, and make sure you have a clear and long distance in front of you and throw it as far as you can. A nice cliff in front of you will also work very well. Now, if you can find a nice transmitter that works with the rx then you are a lucky men/women Ive heard some futaba radios work i think the 3pm but not sure, you may want to ask fangel about that. What ive done is install a bane robotic esc(http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store/p/4265-BaneBots-Motor-Controller-9A-peak-.aspx) and a micro robotic 4 channel fm RX (http://www.robotmarketplace.com/marketplace_antweights.html) (this one 75Mhz Micro Receiver MBP-9G4) and used my old JR xs3 and my glitching problem and very twichy car was cured. This is no different than the miniz guys who use AD band (aka FM). I havent had time to take pics of it but when i do Ill post them or if i get to busy ill send them to someone to get it posted?

Later
Cherub1m


how well is throttle control with that esc? Also it says in the description,"Motor brake on neutral signal and direction change. Helps protect gears from over stress."

So does that mean when I let off the throttle, the neutral position would be like if I held reverse on the stock iwaver board to brake? I'd be interested in trying one of these, but thats my only concern

Cherub1m
2007.11.04, 08:06 PM
Hi Pinoyboy

The throttle response is very nice, feels like my 1/12 scale lrp quantum control. The Motor brake on neutral is always on (its just right for the 1/28th scale) if you have the esc throttle set up in neutral. However, if you trim the throttle to have the forward indicator light to turn on without the car going forward it allows the car to roll in neutral. I like the slight brake on neutral its not to much it just right and allows the car to slow down without spining out and without applying the breaks. If you have a nice TX you can adjust the brakes strenght. Notice when you push the brakes it's actually going into reverse and there is no delay so if you reduce it you will have nice breaking without a spinout but if you set it to high, you have the potential to go just as fast in reverse has forward. So far i realy like this set up. Its also nice that not only it is 75mhz FM but the esc can handle 3.5amp continous and 9amp peak with a cut off switch if it gets to hot or to much amp is drawn. If i understand this correctly this esc should handle a modified motor without any problem. I havent tried it yet, since stock motors seem fast enough for me.

P.S. Was that your SRT-4 hitting 12.9 sec 1/4 mile at 113mph? What mods did you do to it?

Good Luck
Cherub1m

fangel
2007.11.04, 08:39 PM
hum....interesting...
It's good that you have fixed all your problem. But base on the above modification, one of the major issue is in the electronics. I guess we have a serious look into how to improve it once and for all.
Your new 02M seems to be a really good racer now with all these hardcore mod.

Cherub1m
2007.11.04, 10:23 PM
Hi fangel

Yes the car runs great now. I was a little concern with the back of the car since i prefer an H-plate set up. But by switching the motor stays and doing a little trimming, the car handles great. I am able to change ride height by adding small washers to the bottom of motor stays and the front suspension can be lowered the same has any other 1/28 scale. Its very easy to untweak the car with the upgrade shocks (if it tweaks to the right just add some pressure to the right suspension and the car will track straight and the opposite if it tweak left). Also, I am able to set a little droop to the rear suspension. So far so good.

Ill keep everyone posted
Cherub1m

Cherub1m
2007.11.05, 08:35 PM
Hello everyone

I tested the iwaver 02M chassis with the new electronic i mentioned on my previous post.

"switching the front motor stay with the back motor stay and the back motor stay with the front motor stay. You will need to do some trimming of the rear (remember it was the front) motor stay and a small part of the motor mount to allow smooth movement."

"What ive done is install a bane robotic esc(http://www.trossenrobotics.com/stor...r-9A-peak-.aspx) and a micro robotic 4 channel fm RX (http://www.robotmarketplace.com/mar...antweights.html) (this one 75Mhz Micro Receiver MBP-9G4) and used my old JR xs3 and my glitching problem and very twichy car was cured."

Well, the car ran great on the RCP track. The track was a very technical, it even had two off camber curves. That was not a problem for the car it felt stable on the straights, on the turns. I had my miniz's there, they also ran great, but i have to say the modified iwaver 02M worked best. Now i have to say the stock miniz radio does not allow for much tweaking so when i get my Ko Propo with miniz module i think things will be more equal.

Later all
Cherub1m

herman
2007.11.05, 09:54 PM
can you pls post pics of your car? thanks :D

Cherub1m
2007.11.06, 08:07 AM
Hi herman

I will at the end of the week. I've just been busy with family, work and board preparation.

Cherub1m

fangel
2007.11.06, 08:50 PM
We are all waiting for your modified 02M, since not only have you mod it to make it better, but in your previous post, you feel that it is even better then a Mini-Z.
Really looking forward to your picture and more news from you.

Cherub1m
2007.11.08, 01:08 PM
Hi everyone

You will notice several pictures of the mods on the 02M. However, few things i would like you to pay close attention to, is the back-end and the 4 screws on holding the shocks. You should see by switching the motor stays, the back-end now has a nice suspension travel also its the rear axel that moves up and down (this is not the case in the stock set-up). Also, the screws holding the shocks seem not tightened. I had to use ca glue to screw them down partialy and allow some play so that they do not bind. A little ca on the tips of the 4 screws works great i havent lost a screw since i did that. And last, the electronics. That is fairly self explanatory, they fit like they were made for the chassis.

As i mentioned before the car tested very well on a RCP track. Now has fangle mentioned i did say with these mods the car handle better then the miniz mr02. However, that was not a fair statement in my part because the stock miniz TX does not compare at all to the JR xs3 synthesized 75mhz TX. A good radio with many setting will help alot. When i get my Ko Propo i think things will be equal has far has handling except for 75 mhz FM is still better imo (but miniz will be 2.4ghz soon :) hint hint iwaver)

Let me know what you all think
Cherub1m

Cherub1m
2007.11.08, 01:45 PM
I could only upload 5 pics so here are the rest. These two pics are just to show the suspension travel of the back-end.

Have fun
Cherub1m

zed
2007.11.08, 01:47 PM
Hi,
I've been reading this forum for a while (I just started mini RCs), I have an iwaver 02M, did your modifications with the motor stays, it works great :)
I also changed the stock servo with a futaba 3110, it's much faster than the stock one, but makes some jittering sound when the radio is on and the steering in neutral, but that doesn't affect the steering at all, it's fine.

Cherub1m
2007.11.08, 02:32 PM
Hi zed

Glad to hear it worked for you. The chassis has lots of potential. I hope iwaver considers putting this in there instruction manual. Getting ones car to handle is already hard enough, this added flaw makes it even more fustrating especialy for people that are new to RC's in general. As for your servo jittering i dont know much about the futaba 3110 but as you already noticed it does not effect your handling and if it stops after you run the car for awhile it could be to much current is going to the servo at full charge. However, iam not sure most of the miniz's do it. My Hitec hs 50 i have in the 02M does this very slight.

Thanks for letting me know of your modification
later
Cherub1m

Cherub1m
2007.11.09, 08:55 PM
Hi everyone

Update, I tested my 02M again today. I did some small changes. I got ATM wheels, -1 off set for front and +1 off set for rear and got a speedy 07 but did not have a chance to break it in for at the track but broke it in at home a few min ago. Well, at the track again the car ran so well i decided to race it tommorrow at Maj's place. I was planning to run the mr02 but i didnt because the stock radio is not very tunable and i get a glitch when going over the core lap counting system. And at this point i feel more comfortable with the 02M set up. At home i put the speedy 07 and man the car realy came alive ill see if i can hold on to it at the track tommorrow :D .

Note: If anyone tries the bane esc i mentioned before it handles 3.5amp continuous and 9amp peak. I also mentions it may handle modified motors. Well, it has come to my attention that some of the mod motors may have peaks much higher than 9 amp. So, if that is the case i dont think its a good idea to run this esc with mod motors. the speedy 07 is fast enough for me. Hopefully other stock clases will let me run this car now because it just as fast as stock miniz (bearings, speedy 07, alum. front knuckles graphite H-plate)

Later
Cherub1m

Cherub1m
2007.11.12, 11:18 AM
Just an update

I noticed after running the car with the banebot BB-3-9 esc at times i would get slowdown. Especialy after running for a long time(20-30min or many heats back to back) giving the car a rest or just driving slower or blipping the throttle would eventualy give me back the torque and speed, at first i thought it was my batteries but it would slow down and then give me back full speed. I am not sure what that was but my guess is probably the esc is getting hot. Ive talked to Frank from Atomic Mods about this he feels this could be the esc also. We also discussed the specs of the TGR Spinner esc. If the lenght fits my 02M I may give it a try.

Ill keep everyone posted
Cherub1m

Cherub1m
2007.11.12, 12:30 PM
Another update

I got a hold of the staff from Banebot's and there explanation of the slow down is because the BB-3-9 esc has a 5 volt cut off incorporated in the esc so using 4 Nimh AAA may give me 5-6 volts at the beginning, but as the batteries drain to its expected voltage of 4.8 volts the BB-3-9 esc wants to shut down. Basically i got lucky since i was using 1000 mah AAA Nimh's for the race, I was able to finish all the heats with just minor slowdown, for practice however, it was noticable since i would run for a longer time. Just a thought, since lithium gives less amp than Nimh's. I may try 2 AA lithium(7.2 to 7.4 volts) or 4 AAA lithium (14.4 to 14.8 volts) and of course reduce my throttle to 30% (or more :D) to be able to drive it. 4 AAA would be easier to use because I dont have to mod or remove the battery holder. Well, most likely i will try the TGR Spinner from Atomic mods if it fits, i think all i need is an extra 8mm to between the battery holder (the lenght)

Ill keep everyone posted
Cherub1m

Cherub1m
2007.11.13, 12:46 PM
Well, I ordered the TGR Spinner. 4 AAA lipo would have been to much :D . I will save the Banebot BB-3-9 esc for if i ever use 2 AA lithium batteries since the 5 volt BEC will be great for keeping the lithium cell above 5 volts. Also BB-3-9 is causing slow down of the car when my Nimh batteries go down below 5 volts. I should get the TGR Spinner on thursday. Ill keep everyone posted. Man I hope I am not just posting to myself. I need some feed back people, and other ideas from others out there. :)

Thank you
Cherub1m

fangel
2007.11.14, 09:35 PM
Well you are not alone, just that all these upgrade has reach beyond my knowledge.
All I could do is read on and admire your 02M, and wishing I could get my hand on one of them. Since I couldn't test or feel the chassis, I really can't give any feed back.

Red Team
2007.11.15, 03:45 AM
Well Cherub1m, definetely you are not alone...I'm reading this every day.
Our 02M's didn't arrive yet...I'm waiting them every day now. I'm interested also in the performance of the Spinner since I want to use it in the near future in a project I have in mind...so keep us informed !

EMU
2007.11.15, 04:27 AM
I have been thinking about building a IW 02 chassis out of the hop up parts for a little while. I have a spinner ESC, Spektrum RS3500 receiver that I started to setup a Unimax Radline AWD with, but havent completed. The IW-02 chassis sounds like it could be a serious mod class competitor...

If I were to want to run this with a Mini-Z body, would I need to get different clips? I noticed that there were two kinds of clips...

arch2b
2007.11.15, 10:47 AM
i am reading every post with interest even though i don't have an iwaver yet ;)

Cherub1m
2007.11.15, 01:56 PM
Hi EMU, arch2b and Red Team

I should get the TGR Spinner esc today, when i do i will definently give an update. As for the body clips. The iwaver and miniz body clips are essentialy the same. If you look at the clips the perpendicular piece projecting inward is longer on the miniz clipe. I have been able to use the iwaver bodies on miniz's with no problem and without need to change body clips. However, miniz bodies on the iwaver works but you may need to do some trimming depending on the body. Its not a clip issue, its the front steering link of the iwaver 02, its to high so it hits the body when the suspension travels up. I even had to trim the hood on he iwaver saleen to allow some space for the steering link to travel. I have a second iwaver saleen body which i dont want to trim, so i used a lighter and heated the front body mount and bent it up ward to let the front of the body sit higher, this helped, but i still need to work on that one cause i dont like a body that sit to high. If you have a miniz body with a higher hood or a hood that does not slope down it should work fine. My miniz Ford GT fits the iwaver well but because of the two down slopping pieces on the hood the steering link hits it. The only way i could use the miniz ford gt body is by removing the hood piece (i wasnt about to trim that nice body :)). The iwaver saleen body looks nice on the miniz and because they are made of one plastic piece they seem to be more durable. But the miniz body detail is without equal, but you will loose body appandages like crazy :)

I dont know how other miniz bodies will fit the 02M I only have the miniz Ford GT and the Ferrari 360 gtc and the iwaver saleen body. If you are worried about he clip, dont that is compatible. What to be concerned with is the hood if its to low or has hood designs that cause a steep downward slop that can potentialy bind the iwaver 02M steering link. So far my only solution is trim (my saleen body has a nicely trimmed vent...yes a vent to allow the steering link to travel up) or raise the front of the body



Thank you
Cherub1m

zed
2007.11.15, 02:58 PM
Hi,
I have the same problem with the saleen and ford gt body, the steering rod hits the body, especially at the gt.
I trimmed the alu steering rod a little, just to brake the sharp edge at the front side, with this you can win about 1mm :)
Also, the ford GT body clip is higher about 2mm where it connects to the body, and can be used with the saleen body, so with this the front suspension have enough space to work (but the saleen body mount slot is taller inside than the ford gt for some reason, and you have to put something in if you like it tight :) ).
Otherwise it would be nice to buy the body clips alone without the body, because with a carbon fiber bottom peace the body clip breaks first if you hit the wall too hard.

Red Team
2007.11.15, 03:23 PM
Since you've got the Spinner, Cherub1m...I would try to use a Lexan Hurda body, though it might be a litlle lower at the front.

Hi Zed, nice to see you around here...hope more people from this part of the world, will get into this hobby!

Are many Iwaver's running in Hungary ...after all, you've got an Iwaver dealer overthere , isn't it ?Are you part of a club ? How about Z's...are there many in Hungary ? May be one day, we'll meet to race at this class !

zed
2007.11.15, 05:07 PM
Hi Red Team,
There is a shop who sells iwaver cars and accessories at Budapest, I bought mine there, but I order stuff from the net too.
I just started RC, so I'm not part of any club, and don't race (yet :)).
Mini RC is not so popular in Hungary, rather the bigger 1:8, 1:10 cars are, but from the 1:28 category most of the cars are mini-z's, I also have a mini-z AWD, which I like very much too :)

Cherub1m
2007.11.15, 05:25 PM
Hello

Well i got the TGR Spinner, and i just mounted it the 02M runs the same as when i had the banesbot bb3-9 esc with maybe just a bit more bunch. But the great thing about the TGR is when the batteries go down i dont have to deal with the dreaded 5 volt cut off that the banebot has. The TGR Spinner fits like it was made for the 02M. Also, the Atomic Mod guys stated this esc will handle modified motor :D can someone say Atomic chilli evolution motor :D Well that motor might be to much motor for me. They recomended the Atomic stock R evolution or maybe the T2. Well, once i test it at the track ill post a report. My guess is it will run great cause i have not changed anything with the chassis. I just wont have to worry about my batteries going lower then 5 volts :) . Basicaly the Spinner is smooth, very linear, has nice breaks, and its very efficient also you can hold the breaks for about 7-10 sec and the car will go into a semi-sleep mode where steering still works but the car wont move and if you hold the break for the same amount of time again it will go back to normal. This function is very nice for the pits and if you want to take a break and not worry about your car taking flight for some reason. Basicaly I am very pleased with the TGR Spinner.

And dont let the radio shack batteries fool you :) does are my testing batteries :cool:

Thank you
Cherub1m

fangel
2007.11.15, 09:41 PM
hum...extremely interesting. I noticed how many hard mod you have done to the chassis.
It does take some time to spot all the changes. I guess the rear suspension and the RX is really the cause of most problem right now. The RX will be upgraded and the rear suspension will need some discussion before it will be modified.

Cherub1m, could you email me your contact information? (phone # and available time)
I think my boss would like to hear some of the direct input from you. This will really get him to change or modified the iwaver 02M.

EMU
2007.11.15, 11:31 PM
Cherub1m, thanks for all the info. This will really help others setup their cars. I should be ordering the parts pretty soon. Does Maj allow you to run the car in the stock class? At ARCMS I doubt I would be able to run it in any class. We have an open AWD class, but no 2WD open/modified class.

Cherub1m
2007.11.16, 02:36 AM
Hi EMU

I enjoy tweaking around with RC cars, I am glad you found the info i posted useful.

Yes Maj allows me to run it in stock class. As far has pure speed i was somewhere in the middle with a field of miniz's with AD and non AD. the infield is where i noticed more stability. If you plan on modding your 02M the TGR Spinner is a better choice for an esc. the bb-3-9 is nice if you plan to run lithium.

Yes iam up late, my 10.5 month old daugther wont sleep for some reason tonight :rolleyes:

Where do you run your RC EMU? at Maj's, Action RC mini speedway? or elsewhere?

Well my little girl is sleeping in my arms nite nite :)

Cherub1m

EMU
2007.11.16, 06:14 AM
Hi EMU

I enjoy tweaking around with RC cars, I am glad you found the info i posted useful.

Yes Maj allows me to run it in stock class. As far has pure speed i was somewhere in the middle with a field of miniz's with AD and non AD. the infield is where i noticed more stability. If you plan on modding your 02M the TGR Spinner is a better choice for an esc. the bb-3-9 is nice if you plan to run lithium.

Yes iam up late, my 10.5 month old daugther wont sleep for some reason tonight :rolleyes:

Where do you run your RC EMU? at Maj's, Action RC mini speedway? or elsewhere?

Well my little girl is sleeping in my arms nite nite :)

Cherub1m
I race at Action RC. I work evenings during the week and dont have a car so Its easier to get to ARCMS than Maj's unless I get a ride. Roland has seen many of my old Iwavers, and was never very impressed. I have wanted to try the new design for a while, but havent gotten around to it. Ive had many IW01's, an IW02 (MR02 copy), and an IW04. Out of about 7 of the racers, very few were able to run solo laps around a track, and only one was really raceable with Mini-Z's without much interference. The electronics never really impressed me, so I allways planned to use aftermarket electronics.

Ive run at the old track that Ron and Maj setup a couple times in Paramus when I had the night off. I started racing at Canal Street with Roland and Willy. Ive run out in PA with the DOW crew a few times, and at the PNWC 06. I had planned on going this year but couldnt get the time off work.

The tweaking around is what I really love about the hobby. Lately I havent been working on anything besides my racers, but I have a bunch of projects that need completion.

Cherub1m
2007.11.17, 08:40 AM
Hi EMU

When i can get out i race mainly at Maj's or ARCMS. My name is Philip, I'll look around for you next time i am at either place.

Cherub1m

Cherub1m
2007.11.17, 10:15 PM
Hi everyone

Well, I tested some different settings. Basically I went back to the basics, I removed the alum. motor mount and alum front suspension mount and replaced them with the stock plastic parts. What I noticed was that, the car was noticably lighter, and the motor placement in the stock plastic motor mount is actually lower then with the alum. motor mount (lower CG :D ). And at home the car seem even more planted to the ground and traction role is much harder to do on the carpet. I also noticed with the stock motor mount I get a better fit with 9 tooths pinion, for some reason with the alum. motor mount i could only get a nice fit with up to 8 tooths. In all I left the ball diff, the alum motor stays, the alum steering knuckles and the alum shocks. Now Ill have to test this during real racing. I think it will handle better then with the alum. parts i removed, my only concern is will it be durable and will i be able to finish a race without breaking a part :rolleyes: will see.

Thank you
Cheurb1m

Red Team
2007.11.18, 10:35 AM
That another good news you gave me Cherub1m...cause our 3 02M's will be all stock, except bearings. We've ordered also some tires. Hope not to break the plastic parts, or at least the bodies to be more resistant than Z.

fangel
2007.11.18, 09:59 PM
Hum...weight saver should improve speed, lower CG always help too.
The plastic is quite strong and tough, and will have some "give" during impact making it much more durable.

Cherub1m
2007.11.29, 11:33 AM
Hi Fangel

I sent you my contact info. about a week ago, and I havent heard from you or your boss about discussing the modifications of the 02M. My guess is, with the holidays its been busy. Well, let me know. Also, calling to HK is free for me so if you or him would like to talk let me know of the times, ill try and call. Just remenber USA time and evening are better for me.

Later
Cherub1m

P.S. I got my KO Propo with miniz module, and guess what... I am thinking about using the synthesized 75 mhz module to control the Iwaver 02M or possibly go SPECTRUM :D

fangel
2007.11.29, 09:09 PM
Yeah, it's true.
We have been really busy with the holiday seasons and never really got around to talk things over.
hum...spectrum...I'm waiting for the chance to announce the upgrade for iwaver electronics too, but I don't have the spec and the road map of the development.

Cherub1m
2007.12.12, 03:02 PM
Hi everyone

I just orderd the spektrum pro module and the micro spektrum rx for my Ko propo EX 10, if all goes well i should get it on friday. I've been busy these past few weeks so i havent had time to test and report much about the 02M modifications. Ill keep everyone posted about the spektrum upgrade.

Cherub1m

fangel
2007.12.12, 11:03 PM
hum...upgrade in electronics.
We will also be releasing the upgrade in iwaver 02M in the upcoming version.
it will be shipped as early as start of 2008!

lsarccc
2007.12.13, 05:49 PM
Keep it coming :cool: I will have a bit of time next week - couple of things to catch up on...

fangel
2007.12.13, 08:50 PM
This is a note to all that are interested with iwaver but was stopped due to the electronic issue that other member has pointed out.
I have personally tested the new electronics and I have not seen any of the problem seen before. Also the new TX will have much more fine tune setting to tune the chassis performance with, so less "hard" modding has to be done to get the response you are after.

Red Team
2007.12.14, 04:03 AM
Altghough we didn't encounter any problems with the current 02M electronics, we're looking forward for the new and improved version.
Cherub1m, I was thinking to do the same, to buy a fully upgraded 02M chasiss and to put in it a good servo, Spinner, a Spektrum receiver, a powerfull motor and a...Hurda lexan body, for the new Hurda competition coming up in 2008...I think it will be a blast combination.
Although you removed from your car some allu parts because of the weight, you have a bit of experience with the upgraded parts for the 02M, and from what you said it seems to me that they are durable and well made, are they ?

Cherub1m
2007.12.16, 09:30 AM
Hi Red Team

Yes the alum. parts are well made. Only problem I had was with the motor mount. For some reason I had a hard time putting in a 9 tooth pinion. The mesh was to tight with the dif. gear (maybe I just got a bad one). An 8 tooth was the biggest pinion I could fit with a nice mesh. But everything else was well made, very stiff and durable. Also, if you get the graphite chassis if you havent done any changes to the motor stay you may find yourself having a lot of oversteer, because the lower graphite chassis is very stiff. If i remember correctly you race in carpet, if that is the case you wont notice it has much since carpet has a lot of traction (RCP is a different story)

Good Luck
Cherub1m

fangel
2007.12.17, 02:15 AM
It's great to hear that there are many member heading into helping the community out.
Our Metallic parts are manufacture by 3racing, which is renounce for it's hop-up parts.
What Cherub1m has said is correct, the lower carbon fiber plate is too stiff for the current setup and the electronics right now does not allow the fine tune adjustment for correcting this issue. The new electronics however would make this possible.
Also since you race on carpet you will have a lot of grip in comparison to RCP track. I have not heard any issue with the pinion gear other then from Cherub1m. I'm guessing this is not a common problem.

Cherub1m
2007.12.23, 02:38 PM
Hi everyone

Just to update on the 02M spekturm mod. I installed everything it worked however, my TGR Spinner keeps losing calibration every two to three runs. I talked to Christian from Atomic Mods and he recomended I return the tgr to them and he would send me another. So to make a long story short I havent raced my 02M with spektrum.

Ill keep everyone posted
Cherub1m

fangel
2007.12.26, 09:02 PM
I love to hear more from you, I guess sometimes things don't turn out the way you were hoping. I'll keep my figure cross for the next TGR so I could hear some results from you.

Hawk Itch
2007.12.28, 12:30 AM
What tires should I buy for the Saleen 02m from Tower, I can't find the Saleen rim sizes listed anywhere? Are they the same width front and back?

Which compound would you recommend for racing on fairly smooth garage concrete? For xmods, soft grooved tires seemed to work pretty good.

Any other recommended parts for racing on concrete like spring sets or the tie rod set? I'm going to get the bearing set from tower.

How about spares, are there any parts that are more prone to breakage/wearing out?

fangel
2007.12.28, 02:06 AM
Hawk Itch,

Welcome to Mini-Zracer forum, also I welcome you to join the iwaver family.
The Saleen S7 RTR set comes installed with narrow and semi wide rim.
The narrow rim size is 8.5mm thick, semi-wide is 10mm (which is the same as most mini-z compatibles size)

Basically on any smooth surface, all tires that provide the most amount of grip should be good, but traction is an double edge sword, too much makes steering hard. So my best advice is the test it out yourself since every surface is different in some ways.

The RTR set comes with 3 sets of hardness rear spring sets. You could get the upgrade spring set from our store, we have upgrade sets for both front and rear which will allow even more fine tuning. The RTR also provide +1, 0 and -2 tie rod providing the option to go toe in and out right out of the box.

Many senior members will tell you that the iwaver new plastic are fairly tough, but the full metallic upgrades will provide the best strength and cosmetic setup. Member like Cherub1m has switch back to plastic for a lighter chassis, while member like Marc had the whole chassis upgraded, so it depends on how you like your chassis.

Hawk Itch
2007.12.30, 03:10 PM
Fangel, could you please clarify which rims/tires are included in the 02m 2008 Saleen rtr, it will help me with my order.

Are there 2 or 4 narrow rims?
Are there 2 or 4 semi-wide rims?
What tires, width and hardness?

fangel
2007.12.30, 10:02 PM
The rims included are 2 narrow and 2 semi-wide.
The tires are the matching in width, the hardness I believe is 20 at stock.
I can't confirm the hardness, but everything else is correct and confirmed.

Cherub1m
2008.04.22, 05:35 PM
Hi everyone

I kind of dropped out of the seen for awhile cause the TGR Spinner was on back order for a long time (very long time). So I've been minizing around without the 02M. I was wondering if the 02M rear end was redesigned or if there are plans for a new design in the future. Main reason I attended the Atomic Miniz race in Flushing New York this year and the competition is way up there. You have to be able to tune your car for the track. The particular track we raced on was like ice. Basically we had to soften the back end considerably to get traction and harden the front suspension. Basically if the iWaver 02M is going to run with miniz's at that level they will need to have a much better rear end to accommodate different track conditions. I dont think the idea of making the bottom plate thinner is a good one. Either they go to a T-plate/H-plate system or redesign the motor mount in order to be able to position the side springs at different positions for better dampening (Basically were its not design mainly for side to side dampening but also front and back). Also, they may want to consider actual oil filed shocks

Later all
Philip

fangel
2008.04.22, 10:55 PM
After all these long discussion, I think we would all agree that the rear end of the iwaver chassis needs improvement and be adjustable.
The overall comments that I have been getting is that we need something that could provide multi-directional suspension. I have seen JOSEC that made his own metallic PCB cover, he claims that it help the rear suspension out. I think we should take a look at it's design.
Oil filled shocks are possible, but we would have to look at the overall cost of it to figure out how it would sell.

Cherub1m
2008.04.26, 12:10 PM
hum...extremely interesting. I noticed how many hard mod you have done to the chassis.
It does take some time to spot all the changes. I guess the rear suspension and the RX is really the cause of most problem right now. The RX will be upgraded and the rear suspension will need some discussion before it will be modified.

Cherub1m, could you email me your contact information? (phone # and available time)
I think my boss would like to hear some of the direct input from you. This will really get him to change or modified the iwaver 02M.

Hi Fangel

I sent you my contact info. about a week ago, and I havent heard from you or your boss about discussing the modifications of the 02M. My guess is, with the holidays its been busy. Well, let me know. Also, calling to HK is free for me so if you or him would like to talk let me know of the times, ill try and call. Just remenber USA time and evening are better for me.

Later
Cherub1m

P.S. I got my KO Propo with miniz module, and guess what... I am thinking about using the synthesized 75 mhz module to control the Iwaver 02M or possibly go SPECTRUM :D


Hi fangel

This is what we talked about last time. Check your private message box, I sent you a msg few days ago.

Later

fangel
2008.04.28, 05:06 AM
Cherub1m,
I have seen your PM. I guess I must have missed it for the last few days.
I believe you are right about many of things, but I'm just one person.
Not only this, but I can't change a whole lot.
I have PM you back about my contact time.

Austin
2008.11.06, 09:35 AM
Hi,

I am sorry to reopen an old thread, but I just wanted to add my own experience.
I own two 02M 2008, and I am very happy with them. I have done the switch of motorstays, and turned the shocks upside down (recommended by Red Team if I remenber correctly), both helped a lot.
I am still using the stock shocks, but I use 2 springs on each (that is needed when you switch motor stays).
I have also set the steering EPA to 120% to give faster steering response without having to buy a new servo. That works for me, but may not be enough for everybody.
I have a McLaren F1 body, that needed the "vented" hood for the front suspension to work.
I have also ditched the alu motor mount because I could not get a decent fit with a 9 tooth pinion, and the CG is lower with the stock one.
That is just my little experience with the Iwaver, I hope that somebody find it useful.

Morten

doug01n
2008.11.06, 09:59 AM
I think reopen an old thread is better than starting a new one.

Are you using the hard and normal springs at the same time?

I'm using the spring that comes with the alloy shocks. I'm thinking in change the motor mounts and use the hard spring of the original plastic shock, regulating the pressure with the top alloy shock.

I sugest you to try this:

Put the EPA arround 95%, but increase the positive exponencial on steering to arround + 60%. It'll be a fast response, without leaving the car too "smart", difficulting the control on the track. I use 95% and -60% on my iwaver, with the tower-pro 5g servo. The response is ideal for my way of driving.

Douglas

Red Team
2008.11.06, 10:41 AM
Hello guys,

@Austin...good to see someone benefit from the advices.

I hope that in next weekend I'll test my hybrid chassis and let you know the feedback: Iwaver carbon chassis - cut just behind the battery tray , Iwaver carbon top plate cut to accomodate the new electronics, Iwaver alloy front end, Kyosho MR02 LM back end ( plan in using the new PN alloy MR02 98mm low motor mount with PN ceramic diff - wait to arrive ), PN carbon RM mid H plate, Scanner RC metal gear servo, Scanner RC 40Mhz FM RX, and a choice of ESC from X180 ( Xray, tested allready - not satisfied ), Spinner - TGR ( tested already - not satisfied ).
Next I'll try the ESC from HaiBoxing HBX18 - 1/18 onroad model, their response to Xray M18 and hope will have better results and if not, Tekin B1R should be the one.

I'll keep you posted and of course, some pictures will follow.

Austin
2008.11.07, 01:50 AM
@doug01n: I currently use the soft + medium spring for a very high rear grip, but I have also ridden hard + medium and hard + soft.

Thanks for the advise:-)

MrUnlimited
2008.12.03, 01:35 PM
Guys, I ordered today a Chili motor for my 02M and a new Atomic spoiler (I broke mine on the Gulf McLaren body:mad:). I can't wait to try it. It is way too fast in my livingroom but on the street it will be a blast!!! Here is one tested on a Tamiya Speed checker: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfVX-9t0UJk&feature=related
I'll use the Spinner esc to control it.

2wdMod
2008.12.12, 08:13 AM
Hello guys,

@Austin...good to see someone benefit from the advices.

I hope that in next weekend I'll test my hybrid chassis and let you know the feedback: Iwaver carbon chassis - cut just behind the battery tray , Iwaver carbon top plate cut to accomodate the new electronics, Iwaver alloy front end, Kyosho MR02 LM back end ( plan in using the new PN alloy MR02 98mm low motor mount with PN ceramic diff - wait to arrive ), PN carbon RM mid H plate, Scanner RC metal gear servo, Scanner RC 40Mhz FM RX, and a choice of ESC from X180 ( Xray, tested allready - not satisfied ), Spinner - TGR ( tested already - not satisfied ).
Next I'll try the ESC from HaiBoxing HBX18 - 1/18 onroad model, their response to Xray M18 and hope will have better results and if not, Tekin B1R should be the one.

I'll keep you posted and of course, some pictures will follow.

I have done this mod!! I even machined a recess into the carbon chassis for the tplate to sit in.It works super!! much nicer than trying to get the spring style rear end tuned in.I just couldnt get the spring rearend to be consistant.For right now I am running a 3racing rear pod.I just used that to see how this conversion was going to work out since it's cheap. It cost me 10.00 for the chassis and 12.00 for the 3 racing rear pod.I am also adding a tube style damper for side roll.Even without the side damper it's way more consistant than i found the spring rear end to be. I will post up some pics shortly.

2wdMod
2008.12.12, 09:10 AM
Here are the pics of the rear end conversion.Sorry the one of the underside turned out a little blurry.I also included a pic of a steering mod I did to take the slop out of the front end. Used GPM shock ends for the mini-t for the saver link, and some .5 carbon fiber for the drag link. centers perfectly now, plus there isnt that annoying chatter from the stock steering link hitting the saleen boddy when you hit a small bump.pluss with the steering link on the underside of the steering knuckle the suspension doesnt bind or bottom out on the body at half travel.Also , you cant see it but I used some .040 lexan between the chassis and the alloy front suspension to space the chassis down to lower the center of gravity and get the batteries to sit a little lower.The chassis is still at about 3 mm though,so I will try some .060 shims in the near future to further lower the C.O.G..I cant wait to add the damper tube to the rear , it already handles 100% better than it did with the 02m rear end set-up.

MrUnlimited
2008.12.12, 01:34 PM
Looks great, I also ordered a 3Racing motormount and shock, so your pics are a great example for me. Thank you for that. What body are you racing? I received today my new motor (Atomic Chili motor) I expect to receive the motormount next week so I can start to begin to modify the chassis or to create my own chassis:D

2wdMod
2008.12.12, 01:45 PM
still running a saleen s7, or PN pan car body with it.The wheelbase is 98mm still after the conversion, but can be adjusted out to 106mm, so I am going to get one of the new lm bodysets and try it out on it.since I moved the draglink from the top of the steering knuckle to the bottom I should be able to have enough clearance to run the new body set.

MrUnlimited
2008.12.12, 02:00 PM
Can you fit the bearings directly to the motormount or do you use adapaters like 1/12 cars

2wdMod
2008.12.12, 02:34 PM
Can you fit the bearings directly to the motormount or do you use adapaters like 1/12 cars

the 3racing pod comes with 2 sets of bearing adapters like a 1/12 pod.So it gives you 4 different ride height options in the rear.

MrUnlimited
2008.12.12, 02:47 PM
Thanks for the info. I am also ordering the new Atomic LCG pod to try or for the new chassis I am planning to build.

2wdMod
2008.12.12, 02:58 PM
yeah that's pretty much what I intend on doing.The 3racing set-up was cheap to experiment with.Now that I know I like the conversion the LCG pod and a set of h-plates to tune with are definitely going to be purchased REAL soon!

2wdMod
2008.12.13, 12:35 PM
Added a tube style roll damper yesterday evening! rearend is now sicking like fly paper!! This thing is SOOOOOO dialed! Like it much better than my MR-02.

Next step in this mad cobble will be to do some electronics upgrades~
spektrum sr3500
losi excellorin 10,050 kv brushless system for the micro-t
700-800 mah 2S 7.4v lipo
also trying to hunt up a small digital micro servo with a fast transit speed-any ideas on that one guys???

MrUnlimited
2008.12.14, 07:03 AM
Do you think the brushless motor will fit into the pod? Where do you get that lipo from? I am also interested in that one and does it have a balancing connector?

2wdMod
2008.12.14, 10:33 AM
on the motor, yeah it will fit, the BL motors for the micro t are itty bitty.On the lipo i am currently searching for one with the correct dimensions for this project.I am going to take this a step at a time, so the micro-t sppedo and motor are next on the list. When I do make the leap to li-po I really dont care if there is a balancing port. I run 2s packs in my 1/10 cars and so far have only seen the 2 cells get out of balance by 5-6 mah, and I only balance them on about every 10th charge just as a maintenance procedure. Also the micro-t speedo does have a li-po cut off built in so it should be pretty cut and dry there.All I can say is with 7.4v in a Z EPA is going to be my freind!

Red Team
2008.12.14, 12:38 PM
Great to see somebody else it's going to the same direction...for whatever reasons, I had to put my Iwaver projects on stand by, hopefully I can put them back on the worktable, soon ! But keep sharing your mod projects guy...it's fully inspring.

MrUnlimited
2008.12.14, 05:52 PM
on the motor, yeah it will fit, the BL motors for the micro t are itty bitty.On the lipo i am currently searching for one with the correct dimensions for this project.I am going to take this a step at a time, so the micro-t sppedo and motor are next on the list. When I do make the leap to li-po I really dont care if there is a balancing port. I run 2s packs in my 1/10 cars and so far have only seen the 2 cells get out of balance by 5-6 mah, and I only balance them on about every 10th charge just as a maintenance procedure. Also the micro-t speedo does have a li-po cut off built in so it should be pretty cut and dry there.All I can say is with 7.4v in a Z EPA is going to be my freind!
In my electric cat (boat) I run also lipo's (25C types) but I always use a balancing charger (BC601 charger) so I get the most out of it.
What speeds do you expect with the BL motor ? Will it outrun the Chili by Atomic?

MrUnlimited
2008.12.14, 05:56 PM
Great to see somebody else it's going to the same direction...for whatever reasons, I had to put my Iwaver projects on stand by, hopefully I can put them back on the worktable, soon ! But keep sharing your mod projects guy...it's fully inspring.Yep it is great. I remember we talked about this with Edmond (Fangel) but I have not seen the rear pod redesigned. I already find it very quiet around him and Iwaver. Anyway, I have still plans to create my own chassis using a different rear pod (probably the new LCG pod by Atomic) and the front of the Iwaver 02M.

2wdMod
2008.12.14, 07:40 PM
In my electric cat (boat) I run also lipo's (25C types) but I always use a balancing charger (BC601 charger) so I get the most out of it.
What speeds do you expect with the BL motor ? Will it outrun the Chili by Atomic?

Well i have found a 750mah 15c 2s 7.4v li-po!! Dimensions are 20mm x42mm x12mm. I figure if I dremel a slot in the battery box toward the rear of the 02m this will give the best weight bias with the li-po laying across the chassis and leave a ton of room for mounting the esc and receiver.The great news is they are CHEAP!!(14.00) The esc apears (dimensionally)that it will actually fit in the cavity normally used for the pcb board. which if I dremel out another set of slots toward the front of the battery box will mean I can mount the sr3500 without removing it from the case, and still use plugs on the esc and servo and not have to hardwire them to the receiver!:)That means a nice clean modular install!

As for speeds, the losi 10,050 kv motor @ 7.4v= 74,370 rpm unloaded.BUT as we all know the torque band of BL motors is MUCH broader than brushed,so I expect this combo will pull a VERY tall gear ratio without any heat or load issues.I know with this combo in a micro -t they are pulling top speed over 35mph running a 400mah 10c li-po.That's with a 4 gear drivetrain which =dragx4.Running a 2s li-po at 100% throttle I expect this to meet or even surpass todays mod pan car top speeds given the right gear ratio.

But baby steps, I am doingg my initial testing with the standard 4-AAA cells with the brushless system.The motor at this power level should be turning in the neighborhood of 48,240 rpm unloaded. so on 4 cells with a 6t/42t combo I expect the top speeds to be better than a 70t stock, but iam expecting to see wheel roasting torque running those gears so I will be using the temp. gun to fine tune gear ratio using the arbitrary 150* mark that most BL manufacturers recommend for the overtemp point on the motor.

I am VERY excited to see what will happen within the next couple of weeks!
As soon as the BL and receiver install is done I will post up some pics, and hopefully a video of some track testing!!

2wdMod
2008.12.14, 07:48 PM
Yep it is great. I remember we talked about this with Edmond (Fangel) but I have not seen the rear pod redesigned. I already find it very quiet around him and Iwaver. Anyway, I have still plans to create my own chassis using a different rear pod (probably the new LCG pod by Atomic) and the front of the Iwaver 02M.

Yes, iwaver has known of the issues with the rear pod since the original 02 was being sold through tower hobbies.I was really surprised to see that there were no real changes made to it with this newer version.I am totally with you on the front end being iwaver and a mr-02 style rear pod with a custom chassis in the middle!!! After all things described in my post have been tested and proven, The next step will be for me to do away with the iwaver battery box section and use a peice of 1.5mm carbon to cut a chassis out of to meld the 2 together!!I wish you as much luck on your endevour as I am seeing with mine!

tlsotf
2008.12.15, 01:54 PM
Well i have found a 750mah 15c 2s 7.4v li-po!! Dimensions are 20mm x42mm x12mm.........


Hi, could you let us know where you where able to locate these lipos. I have an MR02 with lith-ion cells and would like to give these a try. Thanks

2wdMod
2008.12.17, 11:28 PM
Hi, could you let us know where you where able to locate these lipos. I have an MR02 with lith-ion cells and would like to give these a try. Thanks

I have done A TON more research on the li-po battery idea over the last couple days.THE source for small scale li-pos I found was HobbyKing.com.Not only do they sell li-pos in pack form , but single raw cells.
As for packs for this project I found many possibilities.
Zippy 500mah 20c 2s 53x30x10 MM price 6.05
Flight max 800mah 15c 54x30x14mm price 6.58
Flight max 500mah 15c 53x10x28mm price 6.43

But most curious were the single raw cells.I found a zippy 400mah single cell with smallenough dimensions to be shoehorned into the current 2-AAA battery holders. Dimensions on the battery holder is 45x21x11mm
the zippy single 400mah lipo cell is 42x23x6.9. cost on the single cell is 2.40.

So I figure run 1 3.7v single cell in each of the 2 battery holders(with slight mod) in a 2S configuration and there is a 400mah 20c 2S lipo set-up in a 1/24 car!!! Or run one of the Flight Max 800mah 15c packs across the chassis towards the rear of the car.


I think i will try the 400mah 20c single cell set-ups first for one simple reason,they are getting 15+ mins running BL in a micro-t with a 350mah li-po so I figure that running direct drive with less drag from a tranny on 400mah should get me in the 12-15min. range.

doug01n
2008.12.18, 08:26 AM
Zippy 500mah 20c 2s 53x30x10 MM price 6.05


I have 2 of this babys to put on my 02M... just trying to get some time to cut an old battery pack I have to atach the battery.

I'll post some news on january.

2wdMod
2008.12.18, 11:29 AM
wow Keep me posted doug and i will do the same.
Sounds like the beginning of a new 1/28 class.Like an unlimited super mod class or something!

MrUnlimited
2008.12.18, 12:22 PM
wow Keep me posted doug and i will do the same.
Sounds like the beginning of a new 1/28 class.Like an unlimited super mod class or something!
I like that: maybe some manufacturers will wake up and develope a brushless system/pcb board for the mini z/iwaver cars.

2wdMod
2008.12.18, 01:17 PM
I like that: maybe some manufacturers will wake up and develope a brushless system/pcb board for the mini z/iwaver cars.

It would be nice since BL is the mainstream now for larger scales, but as usual it takes the hobbyist making it happen to get the ball rolling!

doug01n
2008.12.18, 02:06 PM
Guys... I'm really trying to fit a receiver, ESC (aero) BL motor and the lipo battery... but I think i'll reaaaaly have to DESTROY a batery case and a motor mount to do that (I already destroyed a motor mount).

I think i'll have to use my cooper body to fit it all, and make a special alloy part to put the motor over the diff. The 2,3mm shaft will make me buy a diferent pinion, or adapt a 2mm one.

I think it will be reeeeealy fast!

MrUnlimited
2008.12.19, 02:49 AM
Found this brushless motor: http://www.himodel.com/electric/Feigao_130S_6686KV_Brushless_Motor_Type_1308414S.h tml It is 130 size and has 6686KV!

doug01n
2008.12.19, 04:51 AM
This is the one I have:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4195

Same size, 4300kV.

I tell you one thing: this thing is BIG to fit in an iwaver. The 30mm long is almost the distance between the rear weels, and the mid mount motor will interfeer in the suspension mount. That's why i'm trying to mount the motor over the diff.

The 4300kV motor with 2S is really good. With 3S will be insane! (I hope that I make the correct things to adapt it, and create a fast machine... :) )

2wdMod
2008.12.19, 01:25 PM
This is the one I have:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4195

Same size, 4300kV.

I tell you one thing: this thing is BIG to fit in an iwaver. The 30mm long is almost the distance between the rear weels, and the mid mount motor will interfeer in the suspension mount. That's why i'm trying to mount the motor over the diff.

The 4300kV motor with 2S is really good. With 3S will be insane! (I hope that I make the correct things to adapt it, and create a fast machine... :) )

doug, try one of the losi micro motors,or the motor orion makes for the 1/36 scale stuff Not sure on the dimensions. I will try and pull them up.

MrUnlimited
2008.12.19, 02:02 PM
Here is the motor your mentioned: http://www.teamorion.com/Products/Vortex+Brushless+Motors/Vortex+136+BL+Motor Only the esc has 5A but I don't know what max amp is. My spinner has more!

doug01n
2008.12.21, 10:17 AM
Here is the motor your mentioned: http://www.teamorion.com/Products/Vortex+Brushless+Motors/Vortex+136+BL+Motor Only the esc has 5A but I don't know what max amp is. My spinner has more!

I'm afraid this motor will not have enough power to take the almost 300g of the iwaver out of the stop position. Does anyone have the strenght power graphics of this motor?

I know the 4300kv motor I have does the job... but this one would be the excelent choice, making the size problem a minor issue.

iconnx
2009.01.03, 08:59 AM
Hello everyone. Am new to the board and have a couple of IW 02M's! Been caught by the modding bug and def. need to get the rear end sorted out as by design it's flawed... Anyway, the q I has was concering the losi xcelorin brushless motor and esc. Has 2wd fitted it yet (or anyone else for that matter)? I really would like to know if it would fit between a Kyosho MR-02 or LCG Pod mount. Or would the TGR spinner be a better option utilising a conventional brushed motor?

Thanks guys!

:)

MrUnlimited
2009.01.03, 09:21 AM
Hello everyone. Am new to the board and have a couple of IW 02M's! Been caught by the modding bug and def. need to get the rear end sorted out as by design it's flawed... Anyway, the q I has was concering the losi xcelorin brushless motor and esc. Has 2wd fitted it yet (or anyone else for that matter)? I really would like to know if it would fit between a Kyosho MR-02 or LCG Pod mount. Or would the TGR spinner be a better option utilising a conventional brushed motor?

Thanks guys!

:)
As far as I know the Micro-T motor is 130 size and i think it should fit in the lcg pod. I have the spinner esc myself with a Chili motor, I am currently working on an own chassis using the front end of the 02m and a 3Racing pod in the rear. Hope to show the first pics in 2 weeks HERE!:cool:

iconnx
2009.01.05, 08:16 AM
Thanks! The other question I ahve is if I do go with the Xcelorin system, the shaft on them otor is 1.5mm... What do you guys recommend to fit a pinion on? And also, if I decided to stick with the IWaver alloy mount (and try and rescue the design) will this 1/36 motor fit? Or would I be forced to go to a different pod arrangement? I actually wanna try Cherub's reccomendation with swapping the motor stays and then cutting out the CF chassis and install a Kyosho H Plate. It hink this will get the car to 90% of what it needs to be and then tweak away I suppose....

Cheers! :)

iconnx
2009.01.05, 11:10 PM
Also, do any of you gents have a spare TGR Spinner ESC that you wanna sell? There is not stock of these @ Atomic....

Thanks guys!

:)

MrUnlimited
2009.01.06, 08:21 AM
I don't know if TGR still excists since their website is dead for several weeks. I think the best shot know is too wait for a manufacturer who is gonna develope a set for the mini-z series.