PDA

View Full Version : Hot Glue + RCP Tiles


arch2b
2007.10.14, 09:43 AM
does anyone know how the foam tiles will react to hot glue?

here is what i'km thinking....

i need to route out a pattern for my core loop and i need something to keep the loop inside the tile. i tried tape before but it doesn't prevent the loop from sliding out of the slot. i was hoping i could hot glue the loop in and trim the glue back to prevent any bumps on the bottom.

does anyone have a better suggestions to keep the loop in the groove?

byebye
2007.10.14, 09:56 AM
I know Brian in Stafford used a piece of flat plastic and attached it to the bottom of the tile with the core system in between. I don't know how he permanantely attached it though. You can use screws also if you decide to attach some kind of flat piece on the bottom. Just run the screws thru the rails sides.

Kris

arch2b
2007.10.14, 10:01 AM
your still getting the bump though as you step on and off the plastic below. i'm trying to avoid any bumps at the core loop.

byebye
2007.10.14, 10:04 AM
your still getting the bump though as you step on and off the plastic below. i'm trying to avoid any bumps at the core loop.

I think he put a groove in the tile though. It was very smooth. The plastic sheet was really thin. I too am thinking of how I can do this.

If you come up with something post some pics up.

Kris

arch2b
2007.10.14, 10:14 AM
i already colored the core loop finish line to differentiate it from the starting grid. now i just have to put the usual 'warning' and 'danger' labels on the rails. the reason being, since the loop will be embeded into the tiels, i want to make sure no one steps on them or tears the tiles apart in breakdown. i want to make it idiot proof :p

http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/520/medium/IMG_4329.JPG

i wish we could make the loop detachable from the unit. that would make it sooo much easier to transport. i could then actually use the leather pouch the unit came with :rolleyes:

kenontap
2007.10.14, 10:49 AM
slot the tile and then use shoegoo. it should hold and still can be removed.

kja812
2007.10.14, 04:29 PM
slot the tile and then use shoegoo. it should hold and still can be removed.

RTV silicone would probably to the trick as well.

Jonny
2007.10.15, 05:13 AM
Hi Arch, this is how I've done it similarly to our club's setup. First off I cut the groove for the loop under the tiles, then used a heavy duty webbed tape to keep it in. This did work just fine for us. However, to keep the unit secure with the Core box we decided to fix it by using 3-4mm plastic sheet and the pegs from the RCP. The Core box itself is stuck using two strips of double sided tape. It works perfecty and is easily transportable and sturdy. I will be making a guard over the box to protect the USB plug from getting stepped on. I know Brian has actually used large bolts at each end through the rails to keep the ends from lifting but I haven't had the need for that as yet.

Jonny

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/staffordracers/MISCELLANEOUS/PlasticandPegs.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/staffordracers/MISCELLANEOUS/RCPInstalledwithCore.jpg

arch2b
2007.10.15, 09:00 AM
i like the layout and reasoning behind what you did and the quality looks great but it still does not resolve the issue i am aiming for which is zero transition on and off the loop tiles. even the 1/8" core loop makes a noticeable bump. unless you taper the 4mm down to nothing over a couple inches which would be near impossible or atleast impractical to do.

Spoon
2007.10.15, 09:33 AM
i like the layout and reasoning behind what you did and the quality looks great but it still does not resolve the issue i am aiming for which is zero transition on and off the loop tiles. even the 1/8" core loop makes a noticeable bump. unless you taper the 4mm down to nothing over a couple inches which would be near impossible or atleast impractical to do.

Awww...come on Arch. What happened to that guy that would fabricate his own LED's and OL roll cages? Sounds like you're getting old ;) :p

I like the idea of protecting the CORE box.

Here's an idea...What if you did exactly what Jonny pictures there BUT you make the plastic sheet just a little narrower than the start line tiles. THEN you sand down the start tile so it's a little thinner than a regular tile. If you could remove enough material from the start tiles that they lined up with a regular tile, you might just get something that works. Of course... if it doesn't then you've scrapped two tiles.

It all depends on how easy it would be to remove 4mm from the underside of the RCP...probably not very easy.

arch2b
2007.10.15, 09:47 AM
i don't have the tools to do that kind of stuff the right way. it would be nearly impossible to route/sand/plane 4mm off tiles without serious inconsistencies. if you go too deep, the tile will deform as the car passes over it creating a nice dip or pot hole which is just as bad as the bump i'm trying to get rid of. don't get me wrong, i love the idea of creating a protective board for the core unit, etc. but unless someone has the professional machinery to mill/sand/plane foam tiles to a high degree of accuracy, i don't see it happening. i wish we could talk john/rcp into making a prototype we could test;) it would require 2 additional pin holes on either ends to clamp the 4mm plate to the finish line which is the easiest of all things to do unless you make it thin enough to use the existign 2 pins

Jonny
2007.10.15, 12:34 PM
i like the layout and reasoning behind what you did and the quality looks great but it still does not resolve the issue i am aiming for which is zero transition on and off the loop tiles.
It certainly won't solve that one for you but it doesn't affect the racing - is it actually causing you problems or is it just for the hell of it? ;)

I've found pictures of how I first had it installed. I don't know how similar it is to what you have done but this gives zero bump (I think except the thickness of the tape!) the loop held in perfectly fine but there is just the issue of the Core box flopping away at the edge of the track there, which would need a solution to support it - unless you are careful while moving and transporting (which I was but it was always a worry having to support it). Surely this would be the easiest way for you, or am I missing something?

Jonny

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/staffordracers/MISCELLANEOUS/CoreLoopInstall2.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/staffordracers/MISCELLANEOUS/CoreLoopInstall1.jpg

byebye
2007.10.15, 12:44 PM
It seems like it would just be easier to score the track and tape it down.

Kris

arch2b
2007.10.15, 12:51 PM
i did just what jonny did previously adn the core loop had enough wiggel room to move out of the goove/slot cut into the tile. the silicone sealant would prevent that by being a semi solid barrier.

just as jonny points out, this leaves the core unit to dangle off the edge which i don't like as much as the next person. if we had specialized tiles for this it would be nice to use a solid plate to extend out of the tiles to hold core as well but even 4mm is enough to cause a bump in my opinion and this is what i'm trying to eliminate.

i could make a solid plate however that sandwiches under the rail pins. it would still flop to some degree but adds atleast some measure of support to the unit. it would create a slight upward slope along the one side but thats better to me than bumps across the track.

Jonny
2007.10.15, 01:07 PM
OK I understand what you mean now, I got a little confused between Spoon's 1st suggestion and the prototype piece you talked about after :o That floppy box is inconvenient but I must say I didn't have any issues with my loop coming out of the groove I made and that tape held really firm.

Hope you can dream up something to share as an alternative to the existing installations.

Jonny

arch2b
2007.10.15, 01:55 PM
i can dream up some great stuff ;) just getting it made is the problem :p

Jonny
2007.10.15, 02:43 PM
LMAO! I hear ya on that one...

Jonny

herman
2007.10.15, 09:58 PM
don't know if this will work... but has anybody experimented by making a bridge over the track? or will it be too far to pick up the signal?

arch2b
2007.10.22, 03:14 PM
ok, i made a trip to target this weekend and got busy :p

i have a generic dremel and what looks like a metal carbide sanding/grinding end tool which i routed a semi decent quality trough approx. 3/8" deep. i then used some cheap plumbing clear silicone adheasive/sealant to install the loop into the groove. i filled the groove, 1 side of 1 tile and let it sit for about 8 minutes (says 5 minutes but i like it to be more tacky) and used the blunt end of a pen to push the core loop into the sealant. i tehn ran my finger down the groove to clean up any displaced sealant. abotu 20 minutes later i backfilled the groove again with sealant as it contracts when it dries to flush with the back of the tile. so far i got the loop into on side of a tile and it should be fully dry (asks for 24 hours) tonight so i'll tell you more about the results tonight.

i'll also take some pictures of all the stuff.

if this doesn't work i just ruined a perfectly good finish line :o

Spoon
2007.10.22, 04:15 PM
Awesome, I am looking forward to seeing it when you have it all done. Sounds like crafty Arch is back!

byebye
2007.10.22, 05:21 PM
ok, i made a trip to target this weekend and got busy :p

i have a generic dremel and what looks like a metal carbide sanding/grinding end tool which i routed a semi decent quality trough approx. 3/8" deep. i then used some cheap plumbing clear silicone adheasive/sealant to install the loop into the groove. i filled the groove, 1 side of 1 tile and let it sit for about 8 minutes (says 5 minutes but i like it to be more tacky) and used the blunt end of a pen to push the core loop into the sealant. i tehn ran my finger down the groove to clean up any displaced sealant. abotu 20 minutes later i backfilled the groove again with sealant as it contracts when it dries to flush with the back of the tile. so far i got the loop into on side of a tile and it should be fully dry (asks for 24 hours) tonight so i'll tell you more about the results tonight.

i'll also take some pictures of all the stuff.

if this doesn't work i just ruined a perfectly good finish line :o

Funny I fooled around with mine as well. I'm going to try and use a cheap soldering iron to melt a groove in. I can't wait to see how yours turned out.

Kris

briankstan
2007.10.22, 05:23 PM
is the result the timing loop embeded in a flexible silicone sleeve? is the purpose to get the loop closer to the surface?

I cut an 1/8 x 1/8 groove in the bottom of mine and just justed the thick packing tape (v-fold tape = Millwork term) to tape it in from the bottom. there is no bump and the taped hasn't seemed to even budge.

I am looking for a better solution to having the core box flop around. I've come up with something but I have yet to build it.

arch2b
2007.10.22, 07:52 PM
ok, here is the knock off dremel kit i used. it was a couple bucks at a yard sale
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/511/medium/IMG_4373.JPG

here is the tool tip i used. it too both hands to hold the tool steady and at the right height. it also took 2 passes to get a clean groove.
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/511/medium/IMG_4372.JPG

here is the sealant i used. it smells bad while tacky.
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/511/medium/IMG_4374.JPG

here is a picture of the groove i routed in the tile
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/511/medium/IMG_4379.JPG

here is the half of the track i completed
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/511/medium/IMG_4378.JPG

i choose to do the core side first to keep it from moving around
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/511/medium/IMG_4375.JPG

here is a close up of one of the loop exiting the tile
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/511/medium/IMG_4376.JPG

here you can see down the tile and the loop/sealant flush with the tile
http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/511/medium/IMG_4377.JPG

byebye
2007.10.22, 08:08 PM
Ray that looks a lot better than I thought it would. How did you get the depth right?

Kris

Draconious
2007.10.22, 09:04 PM
What happen to the dove tail router bit idea? ;)

arch2b
2007.10.22, 09:49 PM
i used a marker to draw a ring around the bit at the max. depth to make sure i did nto go to far into the tile. it doesn't look the best as the sealant spread while smoothing it out but it's smooth to the touch and no bumps :)

never found a dove tail bit for the dremel:(

herman
2007.10.23, 04:23 AM
arch.. looks pretty cool... good job...

anybody try putting a bridge for the core? is it going to work? or will it be too far to pick up?

byebye
2007.10.23, 06:58 AM
i used a marker to draw a ring around the bit at the max. depth to make sure i did nto go to far into the tile. it doesn't look the best as the sealant spread while smoothing it out but it's smooth to the touch and no bumps :)

never found a dove tail bit for the dremel:(

Somthing I just thought about, you could have used wax paper to flatten it out. I'm going to copy yours, you did an excellent job. When I put the sealant on mine I'll lay some wax paper over it then another tile.

Too bad CORE didn't make a plug type cable for the box. I wonder if that would mess up the tuning?

Kris

arch2b
2007.10.23, 08:09 AM
be sure to let the sealant set for a couple extra minutes. this makes all the diffrence when stuffing the loop back into the slot. it will stick vs. having to be held down into the slot.

you'll have to go back and push the loop down maybe a couple times during the process to ensure it stays below the surface. this makes it much easier to come back with the topping coat.

i'll use a sanding sponge to clean the excess sealant off the fringes so it doesn't look so amaturish.

best tip, take your time routing the slot. i got a bit sloppy in parts and it makes it harder to keep the loop in the slot. also, don't inhale the track dust :p it gets everywhere in a 2 foot radius.

herman
2007.10.24, 09:38 PM
arch.. looks pretty cool... good job...

anybody try putting a bridge for the core? is it going to work? or will it be too far to pick up?

:confused: :(

herman
2007.10.24, 09:39 PM
When I put the sealant on mine I'll lay some wax paper over it then another tile. cool idea...