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herman
2007.11.06, 05:11 AM
hi folks...

did a search, but zip... anybody got this motor? mine just came in today... been itching to try it out and write a review...

but one thing is bugging me... although the website says that the basic requirement is 3010, do you think it's safe for 3004 fets?

thanks for any replies... (man i'd really hate to be a guinea pig in this situation)

from the atomic website...
Basic Requirement: MOSFET 3010 x 2 / (1 layer)
Turns: 44T
Endbell: Type M1
Body:
1.) Neo Magnet
2.) Dual Ball bearing with High efficiency cooling case

Performance (on 4.8V platform):
RPM (Non-Loading): 34000
Current: 1 AMP

Recommend Gear Ratio”
MR-01,015,02: 5.38:1 to 4.30:1
AWD: 6.38:1 to 4.97:1

herman
2007.11.06, 05:34 AM
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25864&page=2&highlight=atomic+stock+evolution+motor

from the above thread i saw some pics... looks like an older stock 3004 fet chassis... but not certain...

- the motor didn't come with any capacitors, and in some of the pictures that were posted, i saw some capacitors soldered onto the motor... is this necessary? (to reduce motor noise i'm guessing) or can you just use it as is without the capacitors? (sorry if my noobie side is begging to show)

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb118/Tezcatlipoca_China/R0010066.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb118/Tezcatlipoca_China/R0010063.jpg

Aurora
2007.11.06, 01:21 PM
Herman,

I don't have mine with me right now, but IIRC, it is just like the Chilli motor(but Chilli will requires more fet upgrade)--there are three SMD caps soldered onto the endball, somewhere between the two comms.

hrdrvr
2007.11.06, 03:51 PM
Herman. Christian Tabush posted (if I remember correctly) that this motor pushed the limits of the 3010 FETs. I wouldnt run it with 3004s.

How do you know the above car doesnt have stacked FETs?

FWIW, Im running mine in a stock Firelap with no problems. That dang thing is still slow, but I think thats a PCB problem. When installed in an AWD it is real fast. Id say its close to the speed of my 4562 2x2 AWD with Xspeed V. Its a very good motor, and the fastest Ive run on stock FETs, but Im leary to try it in my 02 or 015 (both have 3004s).

pfcparts
2007.11.06, 05:54 PM
I thought they all came with micro caps? They look like a little green board between the tabs. I run mine fine with those on 3010s. I wouldn't even try them on 3004s either...

I used to run one on my awd, but have recently switched back to the atomic awd I was running before as the fets were getting real hot and I didn't notice that much of a difference with the awd stock on my carpet. I did have to switch out my usual pinion as I ruined the thread, but I don't think the plastic pinions slip that much when overheated?

The stock r tore up my rear alloys on my 02 though lol so be careful! :p

parts

herman
2007.11.06, 11:01 PM
thanks for all your replies...

it is just like the Chilli motor(but Chilli will requires more fet upgrade)--there are three SMD caps soldered onto the endball, somewhere between the two co
you're right... atomic came out with two variants...
the chilli evolution - which requires a fet upgrade of 2x2 4562 fets....
and the the stock r evolution - which is supposed to be for stock fets, but looking at the atomic site, i found out that its supposed to be 3010 fets

was kind of curious if anybody tried the stock r with the older stock 3004 fets...

I thought they all came with micro caps? They look like a little green board between the tabs.
unfortunately my motor didn't come with any capacitors soldered onto it, but it did come with a micro cap? (if that's what they call it) as pfc pointed out...
it is a very small little green board between the tabs...

warning another newbie question coming up... so if this is indeed a micro cap, would it mean that i won't be needing anymore capacitors on the motor?

so i guess... at the moment, the safest assumption is to just use the thing on a fetted car... :p :D

i will take pics of the motor soon and post shortly... thanks again to everybody... :D

herman
2007.11.06, 11:02 PM
The stock r tore up my rear alloys on my 02 though lol so be careful!
yikes!!! what alloys were you using? what tires were you using? and where were you running it?

herman
2007.11.08, 10:47 AM
just took some pics earlier...

180 hk$ approx 23 us$
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/atomic%20stock%20r%20evolution/atomicstockr001.jpg

out of the packaging...
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/atomic%20stock%20r%20evolution/atomicstockr005.jpg

close up of the micro cap?
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/atomic%20stock%20r%20evolution/atomicstockr004.jpg

does this mean capacitors not required? thanks for any reply... :D

kja812
2007.11.08, 12:35 PM
Those three small ceramic capacitors on the pcb should take the place of the leaded ones we are all used to seeing between the motor wires and motor can. There should be no need to add additional caps.

TALLGEESE
2007.11.08, 02:40 PM
kja812 is right, you should'nt need to add additional capacitors to the motor.. They've been using these style of capacitor's on 1/10th scale brushed motor's for the last couple of years... It's nice to finally see this type of capacitor mounting on 130 class motors...

herman
2007.11.08, 10:04 PM
ok thanks for the info guys... hope to do a review on the motor soon... :D

TheRinger
2008.03.10, 10:10 PM
Good motor, especially when running single layer 4562 fets.

pooiswyked
2008.03.10, 11:04 PM
i really like my stock r as far as smoothness goes. i run one with a Spinner ESC in my Sinister and it gets pretty sweet run times with plenty of punch.


but comm oil quickly stripped my motor can sticker

RobinZ
2008.03.17, 03:44 PM
It puts out lots of torque. You can feel it from the strong magnets compared to stock Kyosho. It also decelerates very strong due to these magnets. From the Atomic charts it can be seen that the stock R evo is more powerfull than a chilli over the complete speed range, but I do not know how accurate and comparable the Atomics measurements are.

I use the Stock R Evo on my AWD with stock Fets. The only thing is that the two pins with the wires attached stick out underneath the chassis and the thin wires are exposed as well. I suppose an alu or alloy motor clip will touch the pins and cause a short circuit.

Shadow Runner
2008.03.17, 09:52 PM
I suppose an alu or alloy motor clip will touch the pins and cause a short circuit.

Just put thin layer of tape between the motor and mount.

GIHOSU
2008.03.18, 01:04 AM
It puts out lots of torque. You can feel it from the strong magnets compared to stock Kyosho. It also decelerates very strong due to these magnets. From the Atomic charts it can be seen that the stock R evo is more powerfull than a chilli over the complete speed range, but I do not know how accurate and comparable the Atomics measurements are.

I use the Stock R Evo on my AWD with stock Fets. The only thing is that the two pins with the wires attached stick out underneath the chassis and the thin wires are exposed as well. I suppose an alu or alloy motor clip will touch the pins and cause a short circuit.

If the motor wires are out the bottom of the chassis, you may have the motor in upsidedown. The wires are supposed to be on the top side of the motor.

Slubben
2008.03.18, 10:14 AM
If you are talking about the tabs on the opposite side of the motor wires you can place some tape over them to avoid shoring them out on debris.

RobinZ
2008.03.18, 02:14 PM
Yep, I mean the very thin and fragile wires and circuit board on the opposite side of the motor wires, see the pics in this thread.

I glued a thin plastic cover plate on the stock motor holder to protect the fragile stuff. (I like to avoid using tape.) On the downside of the plastic cover plate is that it sticks out underneath the car 2 mm or so.

BTW I also find tuning of the transmitter more difficult/sensitive after mounting the stock R evo. The desired adjustment with not too much braking and the availability of the reverse is hard to find without creeping of the car either forward or backward. Do you experience the same? Or is there another cause for this behaviour?

thx,

AFMiniz
2008.05.04, 11:17 AM
With this "The only thing is that the two pins with the wires attached stick out underneath the chassis and the thin wires are exposed as well. I suppose an alu or alloy motor clip will touch the pins and cause a short circuit", anyone has used this with PN Pro Alu Heatsink?

EMU
2008.05.04, 12:17 PM
Yes. You have to remove a couple of the pieces on the bottom of the cover where the endbell goes to give clearance. I used an Atomic motor cover when I had the Stock-R installed. Only use the stock-R if you have upgraded fets for the AWD, you will fry them if you dont. The motor pushes the limit of the 3010 fet on the 2wd cars.

kryten
2008.05.27, 08:22 PM
Is the stock r safe to use in a 2.4 car?

Flashsp-2
2008.05.27, 11:21 PM
Is the stock r safe to use in a 2.4 car?

Yes indeed...

Stig-z
2009.10.04, 09:55 PM
Hi guys,
Just bought this motor a week ago, i've done the water style motor break in.
I ran it last Friday, after about two minutes my car suddenly stops, only the steering was responding to input.
I let it cool for 5 minutes than it runs again. After about two minutes the car shuts down again. I'm running the 2.4ghz awd board , with 4.97:1 ratio.

Anybody having this problem? Need some advice....thanks.

MantisMMA
2009.10.05, 12:07 AM
there is no need to break in the Stock R motor or any mod motor really, after about ten minutes of run time they are broke in , check your brushes they may be gone already!! that could cause the board to cut out to due to excessive current draw.

Stig-z
2009.10.05, 02:28 AM
there is no need to break in the Stock R motor or any mod motor really, after about ten minutes of run time they are broke in , check your brushes they may be gone already!! that could cause the board to cut out to due to excessive current draw.

I've checked the brushes during and after break in, it looks fine.

CristianTabush
2009.10.05, 02:57 AM
Whenever this happens try "popping" the brushes on the motor by pulling them slightly out (be careful not to take them out, just make sure that you are pulling them far enough to lose contact) and then releasing them so they can make contact with the armature again. If it revs right up again, then it is a "hung brush".

To me it sounds like you installed a capacitor from a box stock motor on the Stock R. Did you do this by chance? If you did, remove it, it is a fuse that shuts power to the motor if the car is drawing too much current, once it cools off, it starts up again. It is really unnecessary, so take it off. If you did not install this, the ONLY thing it could be is a hung brush. Unfortunately, to fix a hung brush, the only way to truly do it is by replacing the brushes all together. This might not be a total fact (like you can still make it work with the brushes you have by running it longer on a slave motor, etc), but it gives you a better chance in not having a hung brush again.

Also, silly solution. Make sure your motor terminals are properly attached to the motor and board. Whether it is by screws, or soldering, make sure that you are getting good contact.

Stig-z
2009.10.05, 05:15 AM
Whenever this happens try "popping" the brushes on the motor by pulling them slightly out (be careful not to take them out, just make sure that you are pulling them far enough to lose contact) and then releasing them so they can make contact with the armature again. If it revs right up again, then it is a "hung brush".

To me it sounds like you installed a capacitor from a box stock motor on the Stock R. Did you do this by chance? If you did, remove it, it is a fuse that shuts power to the motor if the car is drawing too much current, once it cools off, it starts up again. It is really unnecessary, so take it off. If you did not install this, the ONLY thing it could be is a hung brush. Unfortunately, to fix a hung brush, the only way to truly do it is by replacing the brushes all together. This might not be a total fact (like you can still make it work with the brushes you have by running it longer on a slave motor, etc), but it gives you a better chance in not having a hung brush again.

Also, silly solution. Make sure your motor terminals are properly attached to the motor and board. Whether it is by screws, or soldering, make sure that you are getting good contact.

Hi CT,
Nope, i did not install any additional capacitors on the motor, the only caps on the motor are the ones that came with the it.

Is there a shutdown mechanism built in the 2.4Ghz AWD board?
Can the stock R be run on this board without installing or stacking additional FETs?

I'll check on the terminals, see if the contact is good, and i'll reduce the ratio to a higher number , see how that goes....

Stig-z
2009.10.20, 05:06 AM
Things that I've done
1. Cleaned the brushes - still shutdown
2. Installed aluminium motor mount - still shutdown
3. Change ratio to 19/27 - still shutdown


Do you guys think maybe i need to upgrade the FETs, maybe the current draw is too high for stock FETs.

mk2kompressor
2009.10.20, 05:43 AM
i would change the brushes,the m1 can ones are already curved instead of being [|] shaped like normal motors.
just make sure they are the correct way round when you fit them.
also take a hobby knife and run it between each lamination on the comm

Gofast
2009.10.20, 10:16 AM
I love the M1 can but the stock r does have a tendency to shut down. Like all the experts said make sure the brushes are perfectly seated and have good spring tension. Check to make sure the brush springs aren't stuck on the housing.

addicted
2009.10.20, 10:53 AM
didn't know these worked with 2.4 stock fets :O
i want one, ill get one when mk2's shop opens again :D

Stig-z
2009.10.22, 12:54 AM
Upgraded the FETs yesterday, i ran 3 10minutes session without any shutdowns.

Even changed ratios to 17/27 , no shutdown.

Hopefully it will stay this way. (finger crossed)

Tahnks guys for the input.

:D

danny250r
2010.02.14, 01:21 PM
how is this motor compared to a pn speedy 07,, im loooking for something a little slower then a speedy 07 which one should i get :confused:

ChiefGreenLeaf
2010.02.14, 02:26 PM
Try the PN 70 turn.

danny250r
2010.02.14, 02:37 PM
Try the PN 70 turn.

i love the 70t for our narrow body class i am just looking for a little more speed then the 70t but not as much as the 07

J-Milz
2010.02.14, 03:00 PM
You would probably like the Atomic USA, Speedy NM or Speedy 05BB( if you can still find it). I believe they are slightly slower than the Speedy 07 but faster than the 70t.

danny250r
2010.02.14, 03:49 PM
You would probably like the Atomic USA, Speedy NM or Speedy 05BB( if you can still find it). I believe they are slightly slower than the Speedy 07 but faster than the 70t.

i been looking for an 05, great racing with you yesterday:D:D:D dam gold car lol

EMU
2010.02.14, 11:58 PM
Danny, I would recommend either the Atomic USA, or Standard BB. The Stock BB and Stock R are both faster than the Speedy 07bb. The Standard BB is slightly slower... and the USA is a little slower than that. For a light car, I use the USA at Action. That is my 2wd motor preference at that track. If I run a heavier body, on a looser setup, I use the Standard BB.

My issue with the Speedy 07bb is that it has a lot of roll, very little drag brake. Which means you either have to let off very early for a corner, or brake. The ATM Standard and the USA have about the same amount of drag brake. The USA is a bushing motor, the Standard a BB. The PN70t has a lot more drag brake than any of the other motors mentioned. You can always control your speed with battery choice as well. Im not sure if its less speed you want, or more drag brake when you let off throttle.

For PN motors, the NM (Neo Magnets) is high torque with a lot lof low end torque, Speedy 05 would be almost the same as the USA (although I havent used an 05 in years). FS (Fet Stock) is high speed, but has lower torque. All of these motors are discontinued. The only slower motor than the Speedy 07 that PN makes is the 70t.

The only Atomic stock motor that uses Neo Magnets is the Stock BB (yellow label), which gives it loads of torque and more drag brake (although I feel less drag than the 70t). This is the fastest motor that is legal in the wide class at Action RC. You can always try slower batteries (usually higher mah). Which should lower your speeds a little with a fast motor.

danny250r
2010.02.15, 10:34 AM
Danny, I would recommend either the Atomic USA, or Standard BB. The Stock BB and Stock R are both faster than the Speedy 07bb. The Standard BB is slightly slower... and the USA is a little slower than that. For a light car, I use the USA at Action. That is my 2wd motor preference at that track. If I run a heavier body, on a looser setup, I use the Standard BB.

My issue with the Speedy 07bb is that it has a lot of roll, very little drag brake. Which means you either have to let off very early for a corner, or brake. The ATM Standard and the USA have about the same amount of drag brake. The USA is a bushing motor, the Standard a BB. The PN70t has a lot more drag brake than any of the other motors mentioned. You can always control your speed with battery choice as well. Im not sure if its less speed you want, or more drag brake when you let off throttle.

For PN motors, the NM (Neo Magnets) is high torque with a lot lof low end torque, Speedy 05 would be almost the same as the USA (although I havent used an 05 in years). FS (Fet Stock) is high speed, but has lower torque. All of these motors are discontinued. The only slower motor than the Speedy 07 that PN makes is the 70t.

The only Atomic stock motor that uses Neo Magnets is the Stock BB (yellow label), which gives it loads of torque and more drag brake (although I feel less drag than the 70t). This is the fastest motor that is legal in the wide class at Action RC. You can always try slower batteries (usually higher mah). Which should lower your speeds a little with a fast motor.

thanks for the info emu , i like a motor with the drag i guess thats why i like the 70t narrow class so much . i guess ill try the stock bb from atomic thanks again

J-Milz
2010.02.15, 12:59 PM
I knew about the speed differences with the above motors, but I had no idea about the drag brake factor. I too love the drag brake in the 70T, and I drive that car much better than the wide body cars w/ the Speedy 07. I just thought it was an issue with the overall speed of the motor, and my lack of experience. I will definetly swap out the speedy for the stock this week to try it out. I may put the speedy in my AWD because I could use a bit more roll off throttle in that car.

PS: Danny, Im installing a cow catcher on my car for Gold dust! :D

EMU
2010.02.15, 01:17 PM
The Stock BB is very fast, you have to be very smooth on the throttle. Places on the track where you would go to full throttle with the 70t, you are barely on throttle with the Stock BB. Take that into consideration. As we know, faster is not always better.

Felix2010
2010.02.16, 01:32 AM
The Stock BB is very fast, you have to be very smooth on the throttle. Places on the track where you would go to full throttle with the 70t, you are barely on throttle with the Stock BB. Take that into consideration. As we know, faster is not always better.

EMU, you are dead-on about the ATM Stock BB (Yellow Label) motor. It is an absolute beast. I mean, even though Atomic claims the RPM range to be 30k give-or-take, this thing is so torquey but winds-up so fast it is a tough motor to beat for overall performance. For the $$$ what a great motor, and I have a LOT of motors, custom handwinds and crazy-sick pattern-winds, and this motor I find myself reaching for this motor when I want to drop some hot laps on my track. Put a big pinion on it, drop the gear ratio to lowest possible, and this thing will perform like a CHILI bred with a STOCK-R.:D

blt456
2010.02.20, 09:03 PM
I'm having shut down issues too. I am putting in new brushes and doing a water break in as I type this but are there any other solutions? The comm is really dirty so idk if this might be the cause.. :confused:

seanp2k
2010.02.22, 12:26 AM
I'm having shut down issues too. I am putting in new brushes and doing a water break in as I type this but are there any other solutions? The comm is really dirty so idk if this might be the cause.. :confused:
blt,
To clairify, what motor and what FETs are you running? I believe the origional shutdown issue was solved here with a FET upgrade.

blt456
2010.02.22, 12:38 AM
I just replaced the brushes last night. The car works fine.. I run a MR-03 with 4 8858 fets and I replaced the micro capacitor board on the stock-r with PN 70t capacitors since the board was really weak wires.

Roger
2010.02.22, 12:45 PM
EMU, you are dead-on about the ATM Stock BB (Yellow Label) motor. It is an absolute beast. I mean, even though Atomic claims the RPM range to be 30k give-or-take, this thing is so torquey but winds-up so fast it is a tough motor to beat for overall performance. For the $$$ what a great motor, and I have a LOT of motors, custom handwinds and crazy-sick pattern-winds, and this motor I find myself reaching for this motor when I want to drop some hot laps on my track. Put a big pinion on it, drop the gear ratio to lowest possible, and this thing will perform like a CHILI bred with a STOCK-R.:D

Ah man. You guys got the right !! I rebuilt (trued comm and changed brushes - copper) my yellow tag atm stock motor yesterday and that thing is soooooo much faster. I literally had to turn down my expos on my throttle to make it driveable at my local track ( Fast Pace Racing ). Once I got use to the powerband, I knew exactly what areas of the track I can use the power. I was pulling some of the fastest lap times without really going into race mode :). I'll be reaching for this motor more often when we have open stock motor racing :)

Chicken Little
2010.08.05, 09:16 PM
I have been using the Stock-R in my MR-02 2.4GHZ for a full season now. It's much faster than the Speedy 07 IMO. I use the PN 64 pitch gears (53/10) and it's plenty of power for a big track.