View Full Version : I raced the iwaver 02M.

2007.11.11, 10:53 AM
Hi Everyone

Well, finally raced the 02M at MHS hobby's. First let me say the guys I raced with are some of the best racers in the east coast (Maj, Sai, Roland, Leo and some other i dont remenber there names). They all were runing miniz's and most had AD band except for a few. I did not make the A main (i did not expect to :rolleyes: ) but I made the B main, and raced 5 other miniz's (total of 6 including me) out of the other 5 two had AD band the others were running upgraded radios with miniz module (cant wait for my Ko propo). To make a long story short, I came second on the B main just bearly one lap behind. The car performed well on the straights, turns and in traffic. I believe with some tweaking and practice the car can do better. Only, thing I am not sure what type of fets the banebot esc has. If other places dont let me run in on stock class i may try and firgure out how to upgrade the banebot esc fets and race mod :D for sure the chassis can handle it.

Thank you

Red Team
2007.11.11, 01:31 PM
Great to hear such news...in the next days I'm waiting to receive three 02M cars to our club. We'll change the servos but the rest we'll leave it stock and we'll set them according to your advices..thanks for sharing with us !

2007.11.11, 07:06 PM
Hi Red Team

For sure a new and faster servo is one of the most important upgrade and putting the front motor stay in the back and the rear motor stay in the front will improve your rear suspension greatly. I hope you get the latest 02M version. Apparently they upgraded there TX and possibly the PCB

Good luck

2007.11.11, 08:29 PM
The upgraded version of 02M is not yet available, but will go into production with in 2007.
We should be releasing it in early 2008.

2007.11.11, 08:30 PM
It's great to hear that you have been racing and racing well with iwaver 02M.
I hope that you keep improving and help provide news for the community.

2007.11.12, 09:41 AM
A couple of guys race the IW02M regularly at our club. And they do perform real well.

Except when they have interferences from other radios. We noted that specially when some other drivers have the Futaba 2PL radios, the interference or radio-noise they get is really heavy.

It's sad, because the chassis is really great, but these kind of problems....

2007.11.13, 05:34 AM
That is why we are dealing with the problem as we speak.
We are going to upgrade the electronic so that this will not pull our back legs.

2007.11.13, 11:36 AM
Hi fangel

Upgrading the electronic is a great idea. However, i hope you guys seriously take into account the rear suspension. Just switching the front motor stay with the back motor stay and the back motor stay with the front motor stay (with minimal trimming of the motor mount and the new placed rear motor stay) will make the car handle so much better. In fact Roland Shao saw me drive the 02M and his words were "This is the new iwaver? This car has a lot of potential" and after he drove it himself he still felt it had lots of potential. Now, i modified it greatly but i feel the most important thing for handling was the switching of the motor stays and a close second the electronic (without new RX and TX i could not drive the 02M with other miniz's without interference)

Thank you

2007.11.14, 08:40 PM
I'll put in a lot of effort in telling the factory to reverse the motor stay mounting.
Could you please post a close up on what you have done to the motor stay and some mounted photo?
I'll use them to suggest to my boss and factory.

2007.11.15, 01:18 AM
Hi fangel

Here are some picture of the trimmed motor stay and motor mount. I also posted most of the picture on the topic "Best set up for the iwaver 02M" There you should have all the pictures you need.

Ill also let you know how the TGR spinner esc does with the chassis. I should be getting it soon.

Thank you

Red Team
2007.11.15, 03:01 AM
Hi fangel

Upgrading the electronic is a great idea. However, i hope you guys seriously take into account the rear suspension. Just switching the front motor stay with the back motor stay and the back motor stay with the front motor stay (with minimal trimming of the motor mount and the new placed rear motor stay) will make the car handle so much better. In fact Roland Shao saw me drive the 02M and his words were "This is the new iwaver? This car has a lot of potential" and after he drove it himself he still felt it had lots of potential. Now, i modified it greatly but i feel the most important thing for handling was the switching of the motor stays and a close second the electronic (without new RX and TX i could not drive the 02M with other miniz's without interference)

Thank you

If the changing motor stays shouldn't be a problem for us for our " soon to come " 02M's, the interference issues it's bothering me. From what I read, they supposed to have interference if they are on the same frequency with Z's, even if they are FM, so I thought as long as we make sure that they are not at the same or even a near frequency, we'll not have intereverence problems !

I hope I'll not be dissapointed, cause I don't know if the guys who paid for these models, can afford to change the whole electronic.

2007.11.15, 08:26 PM
I believe it should be a problem and we will be upgrading all the 02M electronics soon.
However I would seriously try to push our factory to release the "reversed" motor stay as the stock setup.
As for the metallic parts, we would have to reprocess the metallic parts for it to fit.
I'll talk more about it with my boss.

Red Team
2007.11.16, 02:17 AM
I believe it should be a problem and we will be upgrading all the 02M electronics soon....

Then what we should do if we'll not be able to run our stock 02M's with the other Mini Z cars at the track ? :mad:
If we'll not afford to change the electronic part, I guess we made a wrong decision buying 02M's instead of MIni Z !

2007.11.16, 03:44 AM
see how it goes and maybe once the new elecs are sorted out, you could come to a deal with fangel to get the new elecs

(pretty sure you said youve ordered the cars and now are just waiting for them, if not, just wait if possible til the new elecs are out)

Red Team
2007.11.16, 05:05 AM
Yes, we've ordered them like couple of weeks ago and next week should be here.

We'll see how those cars are running and then I'll let everyone now.

2007.11.17, 07:26 AM
Hi Red Team

If the other miniz racers us the stock miniz transmitter you may be ok. I would not check the crystal number, I would look at the actuall frequency on the crystal (ie. 27.095 mhz) and make sure they are no conflicts. Also, if they are using after market radios like some of the futaba's, you may have some problems. Just give your self some distance from them. fangel mentioned before some of the futaba radios are compatible with the 02M I just dont remembe which ones (maybe the futaba 2pl). If that is the case it may help and it would not cost has much as getting new rx and tx.

Good Luck

Red Team
2007.11.17, 09:50 AM
Hi Phillip, thanks for your info...it was a relief...at our track everybody has stock mini z Tx and we are checking for frequency always. As soon as they arrived and we'll put them together with Z, I'll let everybody knows the conclusions.
One thing I know: today we had couple of xmods of our track, although there were different frequency, but close...they interfere with Z...we supposed this was happened because the MiniZ Tx are more powerful then xmods, but I dont't know if this is the right explanation..so we put the xmods to run in different heat, all by themself :D

2007.11.18, 08:02 AM
Hi Red Team

Yeah the xmods TX and RX dont have much range and even without other cars around you may lose connection. Couple that with other stronger TX and RX you get major glitch. Just remember to tell eveyone to check their TX batteriers, strech their antennas to the max, keep them pointing upward and spread out. :D

Good Luck

Red Team
2007.11.18, 09:43 AM
Hello Phill

This is about to change, cause after the day at the track yesterday, few other xmods owners gave up and are willing to buy Z, so soon will be 3 Iwavers and a growing number of Mini Z at our track.

Thanks for your info !

2007.11.18, 09:02 PM
Well I'm more then happy to make some deal with current iwaver 02M buyer, We will be releasing the new Radio set. I could make a special discount for buyer that wanted to upgrade.

Red Team
2007.11.19, 02:50 AM
Hi Ed, that's a great news indeed...after we'll receive our Iwavers - hopefully this week - and we'll see how they perform, I'll let you know and eventually we'll sort it out through mail !

2007.11.19, 07:32 PM
I'm always excited to hear that more and more people are interested in the iwaver brand.

Red Team
2007.11.20, 01:52 AM
Today I received the notice from post office and tomorrow I'll pick up the 3 02M's. Friday evening and Saturday morning I'll put them together with Z's and mods at our track and we'll see what's going on..I let you know !

2007.11.20, 07:50 PM
yeah, it's good to hear.
I'm looking forward to hear how you feel about the chassis performance.
I get you will get a first hand on how cherub1m's mod will have an effect on stock chassis.

Red Team
2007.11.21, 04:18 AM
I just picked'em up, nice packed...no problem with custom ;)

Friday evening I'll make the cherub1m mods and Saturday morning they are ready 2 race :)

Thanks Ed....hope we'll order more from you :)

2007.11.21, 09:39 AM
Hi Red Team

One thing i forgot to mention, When you switch the motor stays beside doing some trimming of the rear motor stay and some of the motor mount. If you dont have the aluminum shocks, you wont be able to adjust preload of the springs and the car may bottom out. So what you may need to do with the stock shocks is first use the hard rear springs and if that still does not help, you may need to strech the springs a bit (remenber you need to strech it equaly for both side, if its not equal you will tweak to the left or right). thats why i like the alum shocks. Also, trim very slow and try to fit and check for binding and keep repeating that same process until the suspension works freely. you will notice a little play but thats is ok. Another thing because you have the stock plastic bottom chassis plate, you need to be extra carefull while trimming because the bottorm chassis plate flexes alot. if you trim to much your motor mount may pop out if you get into a severe accident (that never happened to me but i see the potential there). With the graphite chassis that is very difficult the happen since its very stiff. So in all if you plan on upgrading any chassis parts i would recommend these (in order of importance):

Alum. shock
Graphite chasssis
Alum. motor stays
Alum. front knuckles
Alum. steering tie rod sets (0, -1,-2) They are stiffer then the plastic ones

Only if you want to:
front alum. suspension mount (will make car heavy, but stiffens the car and its durable)
Alum. rear motor mount (will make car heavy, but has a nice heat sink and its durable)

Have fun

Red Team
2007.11.21, 10:40 AM
Thanks a lot Cherub1m....I'll print this one and take it with me Friday at the club.

2007.11.21, 11:34 AM
I guess the trimming problem comes from the balance of the motor mount which is not exactly at the middle. Especially if you use a ball differential, which is much heavier at the gear side than the stock diff and you need to trim more even with the original motor stay placement.
If you don't have the alu shock you can also use some plastic washer or something inside the stock shock to trim it.

Red Team
2007.11.21, 11:40 AM
Thanks Zed for your input !

2007.11.21, 07:46 PM
must keep note of all of these problem, I guess some of them can be fixed from the factory end, but some might need redesigning for it to work.

2007.11.27, 11:46 AM
Hi Everyone

I didnt have time to update my last race night. But here it goes. I did not do as well last race night with the 02M but that was mainly due to my driving, lack of sleep the night before...thats my excuse :) . I basicaly tried harder springs on the back and that caused major oversteer and not paying attention I thightened the shock to hard and this cause some major shock binding and crazy handling. I thought it was the modified motor and a couple of lose screws holding the front suspension mount, but it was me not being ready to race, by the time i firgured these issues out I had finish the b main in 4th place. also, I noticed another problem. The steering rod design allows for the rod to pop out, if you get into a big crash or even is the small crash is well placed. In my case it was due to crashes and rubbing the wall to hard(ok crashing on the wall :D ). Eventualy i had to CA glue a small piece of lexan to the bottom to close the loop, this helped but with a tight track and many racers crashes are inevitable. Basicaly the lexan bottom piece broke. So after going home i used a small piece of graphite to close the loop. We will see if that helps.


Red Team
2007.11.27, 02:14 PM
Hi Cherub1m, I noticed on one of our cars the same problem with the steering rod...it comes out quite easy.
I checked the aluminum rod picture, it has the same design, though on some of the 02M ads, it's a closed loop design. May be Edmond can tell us a bit about that.

2007.11.27, 02:50 PM
I've not noticed that problem yet. Although I have only used the 02M servo saver on the older 02 car - for this you have to alter the 02 steering link which has the cloosed loop by removing the bottom of the loop. (You can see the original 02 steering link in the foreground of the pic)


You can also see I have tried with spacers underneath the steering arms to lower the car and stiffen the front with preload.

2007.11.27, 09:38 PM
The iwaver 02M steering plate is actually originally designed like the prototype, but this design was changed due to the spring recenter servo saver. It is true that it could pop out when the servo over steer, or you crash it in just the right place **wink wink**
There are a few solutions to this, one is to closed to bottom up using a small pieces of plastic but risk breaking off or decrease the maximum steering angle. Another solutions is to box up the steering rod like the motor stay. but this would risk the chassis not fitting in a few of the flatter front body.

2007.11.28, 03:09 PM
I used two 0.5mm washers (not steel) under each servo stay, so the servo lifted up about 1mm, and now the servo rod almost touches the top of the half loop in the steering rod, and can't come out.

2007.11.28, 04:22 PM
My sons 02M car had the problem of the steering link coming off the servo arm tonight :(

To cut a long story short, my solution is to lengthen the servo arm, has the same effect as Zeds simpler and more practical approach but also speeds up the steering, and maybe the ultra purist would say it keeps the servo as low as possible.

For those that care :o, the long story of how I reached that thought is below...

I did a proper comparison of the servo speed of the prototype 02 car vs the 02M car without the steering arms connected and rates set to 100% on both cars. The servos are pretty much the same speed; the prototype is a smidgeon faster. When you connect the steering link up and watch the speed of the front wheels turning the difference is much greater, with the prototype 02 car having noticeably faster steering.

The length of the 02M servo saver is ever so slightly shorter than the older servo saver and the steering arms on the 02M are a bit longer than on the prototype. So I think the geometry is making the steering slower.

On the track, the 02M was not as prone to over steer as the protoype and I needed all of the 02Ms steering lock to get around the track, compared to the prototype 02 which needs the steering rate turned down to around 40%.

I changed to softer fronts and that made it better, I could reduce the steering rate down to 60% and the steering response felt nippier. This is because the servo is traveling a lot less distance lock to lock, also less lock can be a good thing for corner speed anyway.

My plan is to shim the steering arms to lower the car and stiffen the front (as in the pic above) however this will move the steering link up too making the steering link popping off the servo arm worse. To counter that I will lengthen the servo arm, which will also make the steering faster. I'll also either put prototype steering arms on the 02M or find a way to drill a useable hole nearer the kingpin - this will also make the steering faster.

I will be at the track tomorrow night and will report back.

2007.11.29, 08:05 PM
hum...I guess physical modification will help too, but I have heard that switching servo is the best and fastest way to solve this once and for all. But then again it increase the cost as well.
Let me know how it turns out, I'll see if there are other solution around this problem.

2007.12.01, 11:00 AM
Yes absolutely, it's easy to buy a new servo but it's perhaps more interesting to fix the issue without spending money.

In the video are two 02M cars on the same channel being steered with the same transmitter one with the extended servo saver arm the other standard...
video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cw5-Qsw2pU)

Perhaps it doesn't come across too well on the video but the speed increase is very noticeable in person. The longer throw servo arm with softer tyres on the front means you can turn the steering rate down below 50%. At this point the steering response is easily more than fast enough, for my club track at least.

An hour at the track confirms that these small tweaks are enough to get by without the expense of a new servo. :cool:

Red Team
2007.12.01, 01:57 PM
Man, you really do know how to save some cash :) ...thanks for sharing with us your 02M mods. Did you made yourself the longer servo arm ?
Today I couldn't go to the track, but tomorrow morning I'll be there, so I'll tell you how the 02M guys performed...if they show up :)

2007.12.01, 05:35 PM
I think we have similar goals? I run the club partly for youth groups and Scouts to try model car racing - your track is in a kind of youth centre? So we both agree the cheaper the better then :D

I just got a small length of box section brass and fitted it over the existing servo arm (some trimming), drilled a hole and trimmed a piece of piano wire for the peg.


so I'll tell you how the 02M guys performed...if they show up
Hmmm, I find it's very difficult to start a new club and get people in, people have so many choices, I hope your club does well. I'd be very interested to hear - although perhaps we have wandered too far off Cherub1ms original topic now...

Red Team
2007.12.02, 06:48 AM
You're right, post after post we're getting away from topic :)
...yes, we have similar goals cause our track it's inside of a " youth center ". It's called Kids Palace, a huge building which was build in the communist era, early '80 and it has lot of activities for kids - from all types of RC hobbies, arts, sports, astronomy and many more, most of them free of charge.

In my city, our club it's one of the most attended...cause it's the only one at this class and 2 of the Iwaver pilots were yesterday at the track - when I was missing. The third one, he's racing in 1/10th class in Bulgaria this weekend and he'll be at the track next weekend.

I always print the posts here and bring them to the track to share your mods with them. Today we installed the internet connection at the track computer and everybody will be able to check the forum and to find great advices about their cars. May be we'll put a web cam over there and you'll see us racing every time :)

2007.12.02, 10:38 AM
Well I just got back from our track where I raced the iWaver 02M (there back on topic ;) ) for a few hours. It was just a testing get together, my 02m was still just about outclassed by standard Kyosho 02 and 010s. But there was a lot of promise, I would now agree with Cherub1m about the alloy spring holders being necessary to adjust the tweak of the rear motor pod - it's so much easier than messing with spacers and my thought that the collars were maybe too loose was wrong. It was quite nice to race 1/10th with my friends in the morning and then race the small cars in the afternoon and now I have a full Sunday lunch to eat - the perfect day I would say.

I am still happy with the steering response, there is a noticeable difference on the track, but I have some suitable servos and I'll try one for comparison.

Well there is very famous golf course club house right next to our track and they have an open wireless internet connection - but of course I don't actually use it :o It sounds like the ideal place to have a club that you have , we have to have youth groups come to us.

I should give a disclaimer - I like to post ideas and discuss them, but I'm very far from being a model car genius! I just like playing with toy cars :cool:

2007.12.02, 11:33 PM
all your ideas are very good, I think all these input sparks ideas and concepts.
These will help improve the product, since I'm here to monitor and gather different concepts. Also all these conversation will not only help the current owner, but generate interest for future owner to join in the iwaver family.

I personally will do what I could to help improve the product and the competitive edge. I thank all of you for all your input, I doubt Cherub1m will mind that we have hijacked his post.

2007.12.03, 12:00 AM
Hi guys

Nope, I dont mind my post being hijacked. Its good to read about new ideas.

Keep it coming

2007.12.03, 08:01 PM
basically what I'm hearing is that the rear suspension and the front steering is mainly the big concern.
swapping the motor stay helps along with increasing the servo saver steering arm.
I guess some of the change could be made from the factory as stock, but some that require redesign or modify might come as an upgrade. Still listening and thinking, so keep the juice flowing.

2007.12.03, 10:25 PM
Hi all

Interesting mod Isarccc. My only concern with increasing the servo length is it would worsen the problem of the steering link binding to the hood of bodies with low slooping hood. I have the rubbing/bindding problem with the I waver saleen s 7, and ford gt. I also have that problem with the miniz ford gt, but not with the ferrari 360 the scuderia version. However, the ferrari 360 needed some trimming to keep the rear wheel from rubbing (i am running 98mm 02m setting, the ferrari 360 is a 94mm body). What I need is the Lamborghini Murciélago body for the 02m. Its wide and has lots of room for moving parts on the 02m chassis.


2007.12.04, 01:29 AM
Yes - you haven't much room to play with under the shell, if I could have gone longer on the arm I would have. That extension I did is just a little bit longer than the arm on the prototype which in itself is just barely longer than the arm on the 02M car. The other thing is that the servo on the prototype is smaller and it's output shaft sits lower so it has more room to start with. But so far, no sign of binding with the Saleen shell on my 02M car.

What I didn't mention much is that I'm also using the steering knuckles off the prototype - they have a very much shorter arm than on the 02M, I haven't done the math on the geometry but it's obvious to the eye that most of the speed increase is coming from the steering knuckle arms rather than the servo. I was looking at the length on the arms of the Kyosho AWD (much much shorter than the iWaver), perhaps the real answer is to leave the servo arm alone to stay open to lower shells but go much nearer to the kingpin than even the prototype steering knuckle arms?

@Edmond: The other part of the 'problem' is that the 02M handles better/safer out of the box than the prototype. I have driven a lot of the prototype cars and 3 of the 02Ms - I'm sure I can safely say that the prototype is always prone to oversteer compared to the 02M out of the box. You absolutely must turn down the steering rate on the prototype - on my (carpet) track down to 40%ish or the car is too twitchy to drive. This conclusion is confirmed by many other 1/10th racer friends that have tried the cars and my wife (and trust me she is never wrong...). Their number one concern when they get a car to test is where is the steering rate set, people do a couple of laps messing with the steering rate until they are happy. So with the servo having to travel less distance lock to lock the servo feels more than fast enough. On the other hand the 02M comparatively speaking understeers (ok - that's probably better for learner market) but this means I need to use all of the steering to get round my track quickly and then the steering feels painfully slow.

I would be happy to have shorter steering knuckle arms on the 02M car. Better still would be more than one hole in the steering knuckle arm with the inner hole designed for indoor track racing use, but then the toe values in the steering arms would change though... hmmmm.

So far the new FM transmitter has been fine for me but I really miss the easy way you can change the steering rate on the prototype transmitter compared to the new transmitter. My wish list also includes getting those dedicated steering rate buttons/dial back :)

I will try making steering arms and steering knuckles with a position much closer to the kingpin this weekend, although with Christmas parties and other things going on I will not be rolling my track out at all this week :( But I have just got 3 MH-C9000 WizardOne chargers to play with :D

Oh I rambled on again :o

2007.12.04, 10:57 AM
Hi everyone

Its not ramblig Isarccc, Its brain stroming :). Well, I found a way to use the miniz ford gt body on the iwaver 02m. basicaly, i used a greater then .03 inch piano wire and made a steering rod that is very low and allows the travel without rubbing the hood. I had a littel rub from the servo arm (the pin that move the steering rod) I shaved that at an angle and voila!!! not more rubbing and now i can use the ford GT with all my cars now. :) this finally will limit how many bodies I take the track and simplify my body choices. Ill post pictures when I finally get the process well done. I know it sound crazy using piano wire, but its actually very hard and has good flex memory and it's light. the hardest thing is getting the right degrees or toe in and out and trying to angle the ends of the steering rod to try an mimic a true ackerman steering.



2007.12.04, 12:10 PM
Nice! that sounds interesting - pictures always appreciated :)

I agree, it's a difficult bend to do nicely and getting the toe correct is tricky.

Other than looks is there any advantage of the Kyosho Ford shell over the iWaver one?

2007.12.04, 05:18 PM
Hi Isarccc

I have the Iwaver ford gt. Unfortunately it sit to high on the chassis and the car is more proned to flipping (maybe its the one i got). Changing the side body mounts position to lower the body did not work well for me. Placing the body mounts higher makes it harder to put on the body since higher up the body does not flex as well. Also, the kyosho ford GT seems lighter, it is much lower to the ground, and has better design. Only advantage i see with the Iwaver ford gt is it maybe more durable (and thats a big maybe cause ive given my kyosho ford gt a beating).

yeah its hard to make the steering rod correctly. Two good needle nose plier work well. Ill post pics of the steering rod mod soon


2007.12.04, 08:34 PM
group discussion always helps.
I think I understand you lsarccc, the steering angle in ratio to servo lock to lock really effects the feel of the steering. I guess physically changing the geometry will speed everything up, but then you loose all the fine tune ability in larger tracks. I still believe that faster servo is the way to go.
We will be upgrading the iwaver 02M with new electronics. The new iwaver INT020 will have all the fine tune setting you saw in the iwaver 02 prototype. So keep an eye out for it since you would then be able fine tune the steering ratio to your liking.

Hum...Piano wire as the steering rod...interesting...
Not only is it lighter, just as tough and has load of adjust ability. We need that picture Cherub1m, I'm very excited to see how it turns out.
The ride height of the iwaver version Ford GT is greatly affected by a few chassis design issue, but then I would agree that the Mini-Z Ford GT is much flatter then the iwaver in physical design. The Mini-Z bodies are quite tough as well, just that it was not made in one pieces (most of them) and have a lot of accessories that could break off. iwaver on the other hand is one piece and could withstand a lot of structural beating from "HARD" driving style. Also the Mini-Z shell scratch much more easily.

PS: I personally like the Mini-Z bodies more, just that iwaver is more durable and would fit my aggressive driving style more.

2007.12.05, 02:37 AM
Hmmm the GT shell just sits a little high at the front on the prototype, easily fixed, the rear sits perfectly on all my prototype cars. I'll post a pic later, maybe I was just lucky with the cars I had... I'll have to stop making assumptions about the 02M car based on what I know of the prototype :o Totally agreed on the hardness of iWaver shells - they can take such a beating from children! I have had one split, easily fixed with hot glue and the chassis worked fine after the crash!

Yes - I'm sure that if you are serious about racing the 02M on a tight indoor track that upgrading the servo is the best/only way to go. I'm selling these cars to parents telling them it's a cheap hobby to get their child into so until iWaver put a faster servo in the car (@ you Edmond :D) I still need to look at the alternative which for me is working ok!

I take your point about the trade off between the resolution of the steering and speed in the geometry. I may get around to measuring the steering ratio of a Kyosho car compared to the 02M - I'm probably wrong but I guess the 02M geometry is 300% slower than the Kyosho. Do you already know how they compare? Can you say why was the decision made to lengthen the knuckle arms so much between prototype and the 02M? I still suggest two holes in the knuckle arm for indoor and outdoor use - I have no idea of the production issues or costs of course.

Great news about the INT020, and nice to hear your have the hard driving style!

2007.12.05, 08:05 PM
Yes, the iwaver bodies can really take a beating.
I have yet to test the upgrade on the electronic for iwaver 02M, but I have heard that the motor and servo response are upgraded due to stronger currents. As far as servo goes, we are looking at a faster servo to go with iwaver 02M but still in the sourcing process.

I have not measure the steering ratio (Actually I don't know how to...) So I would not know the difference between the two, I just know that the iwaver front end has a much sharper turning angle. With the correct setup it would be able to out turn Mini-Z with ease. I was actually not aware that the knuckle arms was lengthen, but my guess is that it is to help with the spring recenter servo saver. I think to physically drill another hole in the existing knuckle arm would greatly decrease the structural integrity of the arms. We would have to re-mold the piece completely for this to work.

Yes, the new INT020 will have all the functions and fine tune settings people would want. So Keep and eye out for the new version of 02M.