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View Full Version : MR01 chassis change:


marc
2008.01.01, 04:52 PM
Hello there, for nostalgic purposes, I'd like to show you how to swap the chassis for the MR01 racer. I got another white Toyota Altezza MR01 from a trade and it came with some hop-up's brand new in package. This Altezza is as nice, but definetly not mint condition, so this will be my racer. Enjoy the show!
First, take apart the old chassis.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07166.jpg
Remove the PCB, switch, and power leades.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07167.jpg
Get the new chassis ready.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07168.jpg
First snap the switch back in place making sure that it's in the correct position according to the label on the chassis.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07169.jpg
Then get the power leades in place.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07170.jpg
Place the servo case and PCB board.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07171.jpg
This is a crucial point, make sure the leades are in the correct order, and in place before screwing it in.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07173.jpg
Put the PCB cover on.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07174.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07175.jpg
Assemble the front suspension.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07176.jpg
Front bulkhead in place.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07177.jpg
Body locking plate in place.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07178.jpg
Front wheels on.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07179.jpg
Rear section on.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07180.jpg
Bottom of near complete MR01 chassis.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07181.jpg
Front view.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07182.jpg
Antenna mounted. One thing to note, there is a difference between the MR01 and MR15 as to where to mount the antenna, and where to bend the antenna for the appropiate length.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07183.jpg
Line up the antenna hole on the car's body.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07184.jpg
Body mounted on chassis.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07185.jpg
Just some shots of wheels. These were my very first aftermarket wheels from TopCad back when the MR01 first came out!
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07186.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07187.jpg
Bottome view.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07188.jpg
Body and chassis.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07189.jpg

My current Mini-Z collection.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07190.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07191.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07192.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07193.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07194.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07195.jpg
Comparing stock mint condtion, shelf queen chassis with racing chassis.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07196.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07197.jpg
Wondering if I should swap differentials here.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07198.jpg
Comparing bodies. You can tell which ones been fadded by time, and which ones been kept mint. I don't think the mint one ever left the box till I got it.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07199.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07201.jpg
No, this is not lighting causeing this, one is definetly shinnier than the other.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07203.jpg
I hope you've enjoyed your journey back into time! Later.....................

now if only Kyosho released a clear white skeleton chassis for the MA-010! Or a smoked with gold terminal MR01 chassis, either.

HammerZ
2008.01.01, 10:25 PM
Now that look's like an MR01F version. Also the early non glosscoated bodies do look brighter next to the newer glosscoated ones. I have two Lancia Stratos bodies one without the glosscoat that is brighter with the graphic colors that pop, next to the glosscoated re-release body. The glosscoat has some yellowing to it.

marc
2008.01.01, 10:37 PM
Yes, but I beleive these two are of the same era. I've only known of the white Toyota Altezza to be of the very first generation MR01's. I think time faded one of these, while the other was left mint in box. I got the mint MR01 from a guy who had a hobby shop back in the days and he kept this one for him self till he shipped it to me last week. So the body has remained in the box till I guess '99-'00 whenever the first batch of Mini-Z's came out. That MR01 remains stock where as the clear one is the MR01F conversion as you say. I tried to swap the differentials but noticed that the motor had what looked like a longer shaft for the gear or some thing that prevented the differential's gear to mesh with the motor's gear and I could not fit the gold Kyosho diff onto the MR01F. May need to do some swapping of parts to use the gold diff on the modified MR01.

HammerZ
2008.01.02, 05:15 AM
It is also clear that the "gold" diff is a standard MR01 type. The MR01F uses the MR02 diff, that is clear by the fact that your gears are set closer to the tire. I also think this is why you can see the MR01 ball diffs dirt cheap on ebay. Not alot you can do to use them. The original mount the motor is pushed too far over to the bushing side, that was another thing that caused handling problems on the old cars. With the MR01F mount on mine I also have better left/right turning with it equal both ways at speed.

marc
2008.01.02, 09:47 AM
Thank you Hammer for your information. So I should look at getting an MR02 diff for my racing chassis? What else do you suggest? It came with a Top Cad top rear shock, but I don't know how to mount it with this type of motor mount. Would like some advice please, thank you!

mikey
2008.01.02, 10:37 AM
i had the clear blue chassis on the mr01. but unfortunately i fried the pcb when changing back to the stock grey chassis, so my mr01 is now out of commission.

one thing i noticed, i see that the mr01 you have has a grey colored servo box, the one i have has a white servo box.

i wonder if i can find a pcb that will work with my mr01...

marc
2008.01.02, 10:55 AM
Hi there, the servo box is actually black. It is from the Japanese issued models I beleive. It appears gray cause of the translucent chassis. I like the combination of the black parts and the clear chassis. Good luck finding the PCB, you may find it easier to get a used MR01 on ebay.

HammerZ
2008.01.02, 06:04 PM
I like those black servo cases better than the white ones. The white cases the plastic was way too soft, it was like running the screws into a block of soap. The black cases seem to be made from the harder stuff the mounts are cast from, way better at holding the screws. If you think of the twisting loads on a chassis from running it, the extra stiffness pays off.

I don't know about the Top Cad shocks. But heres some shock mount parts from my parts box. The MR01 mount is on the right side.

marc
2008.01.02, 06:42 PM
So the MR01 is the shortest one of those huh? What aluminum motor mount do you suggest for this MR01 chassis? Need one that will run great shocks.

stuZ
2008.01.03, 01:12 AM
the servo box is actually black. It is from the Japanese issued models I beleive.

I think that the black boxes came along when they started putting pcb's w/ brakes in 01's, right after the Overlands were released and before the 02's.

marc
2008.01.03, 10:07 AM
I don't know about that, but I do remember seeing theme with the 2Fast 2Furious ready set's.
Anyway, GPM has built this MR01 for me which I will be purchasing soon.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/MR01Custom.jpg
I was thinking of swapping parts and putting these alloy bit's on my clear MR01 chassis. I've always wanted to do a clear with all silver MR01. I'm hoping that they will still have in stock the front bumper, and the carbon-alloy rear wing.
If you remember their brochures a while back showing all the parts for the MR01, they had some pretty cool front bumpers and rear wings for these cars. Also plan on getting their silver BBS wheels for it too.

I just noticed the antenna is broken. I asked if they will fix that up for me, we'll see what their responce is.

russp
2008.01.03, 04:45 PM
I don't know about that, but I do remember seeing theme with the 2Fast 2Furious ready set's.
Anyway, GPM has built this MR01 for me which I will be purchasing soon.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/MR01Custom.jpg
I was thinking of swapping parts and putting these alloy bit's on my clear MR01 chassis. I've always wanted to do a clear with all silver MR01. I'm hoping that they will still have in stock the front bumper, and the carbon-alloy rear wing.
If you remember their brochures a while back showing all the parts for the MR01, they had some pretty cool front bumpers and rear wings for these cars. Also plan on getting their silver BBS wheels for it too.

I just noticed the antenna is broken. I asked if they will fix that up for me, we'll see what their responce is.

That is exceptionally cool. I just bought an MR01 off ebay with close to this much aluminum but no damping on side-to-side motion of the rear end. I was thinking of a way to adapt a disc damper but this solution with the springs looks way nicer and more adjustable. My mounts look very similar to yours. Do you happen to know which GPM part it is that is used for the "roll shocks" as they look like they would go right onto my car. I looked at GPM's site but most of their pics won't come up so it's hard to see.

http://www.gpmracing.us/?partnumber=FMZ25204B&c=80

marc
2008.01.03, 05:40 PM
Hi there, if your speaking of side-to-side roll shocks, you'll want these. FMZ25208B $18.00 Silver multi angle roll shock.
If you want up and down shock, you'll want this.
MZ350 $28.00 Single alum. damper spring mr01. I hope this helps, good luck!

russp
2008.01.03, 08:24 PM
Hi there, if your speaking of side-to-side roll shocks, you'll want these. FMZ25208B $18.00 Silver multi angle roll shock.
If you want up and down shock, you'll want this.
MZ350 $28.00 Single alum. damper spring mr01. I hope this helps, good luck!

Oh man, thanks for posting. I'm getting these now (actually getting the purple ones to match my other aluminum). Lucky me they are on a blowout sale for $9. I guess that means they may be closing out their MR01 stuff which is too bad.

FrankW1029
2008.01.11, 05:44 AM
i think i'm gonna find me a clear chassi too for the mr01 if i can't sell it and then get the alu tie-rod.

marc
2008.01.11, 11:08 AM
Good luck, MR01 parts are not easy to come by, especially the clear chassis. I was lucky in that it came with the MR01 in trade.

VWFreak
2008.03.11, 12:37 PM
Hello!

What parts will i need to convert a mr-01 into a mr-015?

marc
2008.03.31, 02:26 PM
Not sure you can as the front of the chassis is completely different. Keep an eye out for my new Tagu wheel's coming soon!

HammerZ
2008.04.01, 07:12 AM
Hello!

What parts will i need to convert a mr-01 into a mr-015?

Like Marc said, everything up front, and I'll add the H plate is also different. You will also find some rewiring of the board will need to be done. The MR015 is mostly like the MR02, with the most shared parts. You can search for some conversion threads for more details.

marc
2008.04.01, 11:28 AM
To be honest, I wouldn't waist the time in converting a classic MR01. I'd save up a little extra and just get the MR15 as the electronic's and fet's will be much better to start with. That's just my opinion, but good luck with your car and post pic's of your project! Since this is a chassis change thread, your conversion will be welcomed!
I'd keep the MR01 as it is for nastalgic reason's.

GIHOSU
2008.04.14, 10:15 AM
I put my MR-01 back into service when TT Minisports started a 'Hi-Mount' class for the MR-015s. I was allowed to run my MR-01 with the guys and we had a blast. I got lucky when I asked about old MR-01 parts. I scored a clear chassis and noticed a good amount of spares that I also purchased. The MR-01 was nice to race on a track, and there was an advantage IMO. The MR-01 has a front anti-sway bar that the MR-015 does not have. Even though I have had to replace 4 or 5 sets of broken servo gears, I still ran and ran well. The then 6 or 7 year old motor seemed to run stronger than the motors in the just out MR-015. I say run the MR-01 and have fun. I picked up the clear chassis so I could save all the original pieces to make it a shelf queen one day.

HammerZ
2008.04.14, 02:28 PM
I have to say my MR01 gears are original and I never busted any. I have always ran the stock plastic steering bar. I have knocked it off gears a few times, but the gears are ok. I do stay away from the alloy steering bars as those are gear snappers.

It is good to see an MR01 holding it's own next to the MR015's. In some was the MR01 is quite tough, the 01's are overbuilt as Kyosho didn't know what this scale would need at the time.

GIHOSU
2008.04.15, 09:24 AM
I used to like how the old M-B AMG wheels (2.5N/0W) looked on the original 911 body. The bad part was all the broken servo gears from having the wheels sticking out and vulnerable when crashing with the wheel turned. Running on streets in the Bronx didn't help either (try to never crash into the tire of a parked car, it hurts). I have turned to 0's up front for more steering response on the track. That change and delrin servo gears have kept the servo case closed for a while now. :D

Now I hear about an Endurance Race with Handout Motor and Batteries. I have thoughts of a setting up a lightweight (all plastic) MR-01 and compare it to a lightweight MR-02 to see how many laps I can squeeze out of 4 AAA's.

HammerZ
2008.04.15, 08:57 PM
I can see now, It was my F40 that dislocated the bar. In that case the body is wide enough to protect it somewhat, that and the extra wide rear.

These older MR01 boards have been known for endurance. I guess the lack of the brake circuit in the ESC makes it more efficient? Back when I bought my first 01 all I had was alkalines. With those I was able to run over an hour solid.

GIHOSU
2008.04.15, 09:34 PM
The body can certainly protect the front end, it's better to finish the race than to get out the screwdriver. I'm luvin the clear chassis, I might have to take some pics to post.

Also, I agree that the board in th MR-01 could be an advantage against the newer ones, especially after reading about the replacements that Kyosho US has had to make available. I am still using the original motor too, they seem to have aged well.

The original plastics have done well too, I have only busted the PCB cover by breaking off the mount where the antenna goes in. I was fortunate to find a set of plastic pieces. I like the black that was used for the later model cars. Mine is old enough to have a white servo box. I think those were the earliest ones that were made.

herman
2008.04.16, 02:09 AM
Even though I have had to replace 4 or 5 sets of broken servo gears, I still ran and ran well.

I used to like how the old M-B AMG wheels (2.5N/0W) looked on the original 911 body

hmmm... no wonder you broke a lot of servo gears... just a suggestion...
get the correct offset for the body that you're running...

that will pretty much solve the problem...

another part to get is an alloy first servo gear or the whole set of 3 gears... it will almost be indestructable... but usually an allow first servo gear will be enough....

and yeah mr01's are still fun to drive as well... :D

GIHOSU
2008.04.16, 07:34 AM
I used to like how the old M-B AMG wheels (2.5N/0W) looked on the original 911 body. The bad part was all the broken servo gears from having the wheels sticking out and vulnerable when crashing with the wheel turned. Running on streets in the Bronx didn't help either (try to never crash into the tire of a parked car, it hurts). I have turned to 0's up front for more steering response on the track. That change and delrin servo gears have kept the servo case closed for a while now. :D

I have been running 0N's for a long time w/ delrin gears... 0 is the correct offset for the 911.

I checked out the alloy servo gears, but at $25USD+ they just seem too expensive for what they really are. It is just a tiny little aluminum gear, I'm not building another space shuttle.

herman
2008.04.16, 10:57 PM
hmmm.... didn't know that alum gears cost that much over there...

but looking at the math...

cost of delrin servo's at the tinyrc shop:
cheapest is 3.3 a pop and at 4 times that gives you 13.2 at 5 times, $16.5
highest is 7.99 at 4 times... that gives you 31.96... at 5 times, $39.95

don't know how much you get your gears though...

if you plan to be competetive with the mr01, i would strongly recommend getting one, it will be cheaper in the long run (would just hate to hear that you suffering a loss due to a broken servo gear) ... however if you just run for fun, cheaper gears would be ok i guess...

GIHOSU
2008.04.17, 08:26 AM
Hey Herman,

I looked at the alloy servo gears and they are $20 and up EACH. Derin is just fine for me at around $6 for a set of 3. I'm not racing for money, just bragging rights and fun with friends

My driving improved alot with track time, but you can't predict who will be next to you when they lose it and crash. Delrin gears have been in for about 2 years now. I lost 3 sets of stock gears to the streets and one set broke on the track on a very rough night of racing. All those gears still have only cost me about half of what the metal gears would cost me. I much would rather spend the money an tires and white bodies, or maybe that 2.4 car i just picked up...

Alloy parts are always 30% to 50% heavier than plastic. I know that a lighter car accelerates faster, brakes better and keeps traction better than a heavier car.