PDA

View Full Version : Just bought used F1 need some help.


RussF
2008.02.15, 10:35 AM
I just received the F1 I bought on Ebay and need some help figuring out what to do. This is my first F1 and I would like to race it on RCP track.

The car came with:
Kyosho F1 with McLaren Mercedes MP4-20(No.9)
Atomic Aluminum/Carbon Fiber Bumper
Atomic Aluminum Motor Mount
Atomic Disc Damper System
Atomic Shock ??
Atomic Ball diff
Atomic Aluminum 2 Degree Tie Rod
Atomic Aluminum 1 Degree Knuckles
Stainless King Pins
Atomic FRP Side Plates
Ball Bearings
Kyosho 20 R Tires
Kyosho 30 F Tires
Kyosho XSpeed Motor
Extra Springs

I need to drill and mount the motor to the motor mount. I was going to use a 7 tooth pinion. The rear end seems to have very limited movement. It seems that the DD is hitting the body (the body has not been cut). The rear end at the side plates seems "pushed" down a bit. Probably by the DD hitting the body I guess but kinda stays that way even with the body off. Also there are no springs on the rear sides like with a stock motor pod. The front seems really stiff to me. There was no stock parts included that the hopup parts replaced, like a motor mount or shock or side plates or knuckles.

I think what I want to do is take off the DD and replace it with just a shock. There seems to be one that could be the Atomic shock for the F1 attached to the top of the DD and over to the antenna area. Maybe I could just use that. After reading here I think it would be good to get the Kyosho carbon fiber side plates as well.

Any help or suggestions are really appreciated. Thanks in advance.

mk2kompressor
2008.02.15, 12:08 PM
i believe mr02 springs will work in the front with those knuckles(i use stock wih o1 hopup springs)
the atm frp plates i had snapped after 5 mins of use:(
the dd and no springs in the rear is the way to go imo,got any pics?

RussF
2008.02.15, 02:21 PM
I will get some pics posted up when I get home tonight. It really looks like I have to cut the body to make the DD fit. Also with the body off the rear susension moves up and down a bit but seems to snag or click at a certain point.

pinoyboy
2008.02.15, 02:26 PM
Am has a tutorial on their site of body trimming to clear a disc damper. Heres a pic of the amount of trimming needed
http://www.atomicmods.com/images/tutorials/Mini-Z_Formula_1_Disk_Damper_Body_Trimming_Tutorial_20. jpg

ruf
2008.02.15, 02:36 PM
Keep the disk damper. You can usually clearance the inside of the body without cutting all the way through. Also, trim the body on the bottom rear edge where the motor mount hits. F1 rear end naturally doesn't have a whole lot of travel.

Make sure you set tweak by shimming the side plates at the motor mount. Pick up some MR02 springs for the Atomic knuckles if you don't like the front spring rate. 2-degree tie rod seems like to much toe-in to me, but maybe you'll like it. The FRP side plates drive fine, but they are easy to break. Drive it and see how it feels.

RussF
2008.02.16, 05:49 PM
Thanks guys,
Heres the car I got. This is what it looked like just as I got it.
Since then I taken it apart and cleaned it up a bit. I noticed one if the side plates is broken.
The body definately needs to be modified to fit with the disc damper. So for now I just took it off and left the shock thing on it.

Any other suggestions/comments?

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj171/Bash_N_Thrash/F1-3.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj171/Bash_N_Thrash/F1-2.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj171/Bash_N_Thrash/F1-1.jpg

RussF
2008.02.22, 04:22 PM
Ok so I got a chance to race it. I put in a stock motor that I had with a 7 tooth pinion. It was slow but that was ok for my first try with an F1.

The changes I made from how I received the car were:
1. Removed the disc damper until I can modify body to fit it (left spring shock on).
2. Cleaned King pins and knuckles, added new c clip for missing one.
3. Added Kyosho CF side plates. Used all three screws (tight).
4. Installed Kyosho 20 deg rear and 30 deg front tires.
5. Cleaned and adjusted diff.

The car did ok but had a few problems:
1. Glitching over the Core Timing loop sometimes sending me into the wall at 90 degrees.
2. Spun out easily when turning left on power.
3. A bit of understeer on power in right hand 180 degree turns.

Observations:
1. Car was quiet running on track.
2. Front wheels were shakey twitchy holding car in hand "On".
3. Front springs seem very stiff and almost scratchy. I thought I had Atomic Knuckles but I dont think so now. I think they are GPMs. They slide smoothly alone on the king pins but the springs seem to grind inside the mounts on the knuckles.

What I want:
1. Tighter, faster turning on power.
2. More speed.
3. Easier to drive.

Things I think I want to try:
1. New Kyosho knuckles 1 or 2 degree.
2. New Alum Tie Rod 0 - 1 degree toe in. Mine now is 2 deg toe out.
3. Modify body and install Disc Damper.
4. Loosen up or smooth out the front end, maybe new springs.
5. Drill can and install XSpeed motor.

Does anybody have any comments or helpful opinions on what to do or parts to try?

cowboysir
2008.02.22, 10:40 PM
a couple things I've done to make GPM parts work on my F1 front end is polishing the kingpins and lubing them slightly with grease and reinstalling softer MR02 springs...that made the front end a little more compliant but not bouncy due to the lube's damping quality.

You definitely need to cut the body a bit to make that rear damper work...do it soon.

I don't know if you've had success with drilling motor cans but it's easier in the long temr just getting a pre drilled can off some webite...I saw a whole schwack of PN cans for $3 each on the ebaiy last week.

Welcome to the F1 world...easy driving is not in the cards until you get your setup just right.;)

RussF
2008.02.23, 08:07 PM
Well I got the damper mounted. I ground out as little of the body as possible. I think I did pretty good. I used half of what I think was a stock rear spring for the shock. I also got the XSpeed drilled and mounted. And I found some small diameter springs that fit nicely into the holes on the GPM Knuckles. They dont bind up in the holes. I still need to get a 0,1, or 2 degree toe in bar. A +2 Atomic toe bar is 2 degree toe out right? And toe in gives better steering?

Here are some pics I snapped.

Body Inside
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj171/Bash_N_Thrash/IMG_2468.jpg

Body Outside
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj171/Bash_N_Thrash/IMG_2469.jpg

Chassis Inside
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj171/Bash_N_Thrash/IMG_2465.jpg

Body on Chassis
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj171/Bash_N_Thrash/IMG_2462.jpg

briankstan
2008.02.24, 12:55 AM
great job, the cutouts are barily noticeable.

ruf
2008.02.24, 02:23 AM
Be careful that the clip-on heatsink doesn't drag. There is almost no room below the can with the Atomic motor mount design. I've been tempted many times to run one myself, only to mount it and realize I had no rear suspension travel.

Also, try adding 0.5-1.5mm worth of shims on the right side in between the side plate and the motor mount tab. You'll have to try different shims to find ones that will fit in there and still line up with the screw.

It appears that you have the Atomic "+2" tie rod which actually has 2 degrees of toe-IN. This should make the car pretty darned stable, but I prefer +1 or 0.

BTW, good job on the cutting for the disk damper. You should also make sure that there is sufficient room in the "air intake cowl" area for the top spring damper to move side-to-side when the suspension is compressed and extended. Usually the rear ball end will hit unless the body you're using has a mammoth-wide intake cowl.

RussF
2008.02.24, 10:36 AM
Be careful that the clip-on heatsink doesn't drag. There is almost no room below the can with the Atomic motor mount design. I've been tempted many times to run one myself, only to mount it and realize I had no rear suspension travel.


I was wondering the same it does sit quite low to the track.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj171/Bash_N_Thrash/IMG_2467.jpg


try adding 0.5-1.5mm worth of shims on the right side in between the side plate and the motor mount tab. You'll have to try different shims to find ones that will fit in there and still line up with the screw.

What would this do?


BTW, good job on the cutting for the disk damper. You should also make sure that there is sufficient room in the "air intake cowl" area for the top spring damper to move side-to-side when the suspension is compressed and extended. Usually the rear ball end will hit unless the body you're using has a mammoth-wide intake cowl.

Thanks! I noticed the top spring damper did contact the air intake when the motor pod moved back and forth so I shaved down the spring mount just above the damper plate (see chassis inside pic). It seems to have quite a bit of room now.


You guys are awesome!! Thanks for the help and good advise.

ruf
2008.02.24, 06:48 PM
WAY too low. When you compress the suspension, the heatsink will hit. The drag combined with the upward force on the lower disk damper spring will make the car squirrelly.

The shim on the right side will fix the tweak (oversteer to the left). You have to play with how many shims to get it right for your car.

BTW, I run the axle in the middle setting on the Atomic motor mount. I've tried lower and it just drags the motor. In the middle setting, the suspension bottoms out just before the can hits.

RussF
2008.02.25, 10:16 AM
Thanks ruf. Thats a good tip on the shims, I should have known thats what they were for. Doh!! I also have my diff in the middle or center mounts on the motor mount. Thats all mine had with it. The heatsink might snag on the track. The car isnt quite as low as it appears in the pic although it is pretty low. I shot the pic at a slight angle. Without the extra inserts for the Atomic motor mount all I can do is the middle position. Maybe I'll see if I can order some of the offset mounts.

ruf
2008.02.25, 12:48 PM
The middle position is the way to go in my opinion. And the heatsink isn't worth the trouble. The Atomic motor mount is essentially a big whopping heatsink anyways, so there really isn't much incremental value in the clip-on.

RussF
2008.03.14, 09:54 AM
AAAAAAHHHHHHGGGGGGG!!!! OK so heres the deal. I think I have the front figured out but I have been messing with this rear end on this car like a madman. It turns out that there is something wrong with the Atomic motor mount I have. The disc damper holder is bent and or deformed an sits way to low to line up correctly with the damper plate. So I shimmed it up quite a bit. I put heavier springs on both top and bottom and removed the shock thing. As a result I had to shave more of the body away for clearance. Its sits nice this way and has a nice soft feel to the rear end. I also checked for tweek and shimmed the right rear side a bit. I thought I had it all figured out, but when I raced it I could not get the rear end to stay planted. I was over steering quite a bit and the rear end would slide out on me (more to the left I think). I have Kyosho 20's in the back. Is there anything softer? Maybe I should put the Atomic shock back on? Loosen the side plates? Any suggestions?