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View Full Version : how to lift and lower your ol, complete instructions.


james399
2008.03.06, 11:31 PM
ok, so someone on here asked me for their help on doing this, so i figured i would just post it here for everyone to use, if the moderators want to turn this into a sticky... be my guest... the pictures are numbered in sequence, and are accompanied by descriptions...

first is how to lower your truck, and second is how you do lssm...

dsc01817: this picture shows you the difference between the rear and front shocks... notice that the shocks are over all the same length... but the shock on the left has far more travel than the one on the right (more shaft is visible)... the tip of the screw driver is pointing to the main difference... you will want to use 4 of the shocks on the left for lowering to maximize travel, and 4 of the ones on the right for lifting your truck... (for those of you trying it at home, yes this will mean that you will need 2 sets of shocks to lower... you don't have to, but this is what i recommend...)

dsc01818: this picture shows how you take apart the shock... put in a phillips (plus) screw driver in through the top and unscrew, be careful that you are holding the shock firmly in your hand, because the bottom will pop out at you...(the spring has preload on it)

dsc01819: this is what your shock should look like when you take it apart... notice the clear little cylinder thing next to the center shaft? (this is a thick coffee straw that i found... you can also use heat shrink styrene or anything else for that matter... you just have to make sure that you cut 4 pieces relatively the same size... that it fits inside the top of the shock, where you put the screw driver to take the shock apart, and that it fits around the screw itself...)

dsc01820-dsc01821: kind of hard to make out, but basically i slipped the clear plastic piece on to the screw

dsc01822: this is what you should have now, 1 spring, 1 bottom of the shock, 1 top of the shock, and the screw with the plastic piece on it... put the shock together the same way you took it apart... be careful when you are screwing the screw into the bottom part of the shock... don't strip it...

dsc01823: this is what it should look like when completed, obviously the shock on the left is the lowered shock, and the one on the right is the standard shock... doesn't look much shorter, but it will make a huge difference once installed... install the shock on the truck and drive...

now lssm shock...

dsc01824: as before take the shock apart the same way....

dsc01825: the longs shiny thing next to the stock screw/shaft is the essentials of the lssm... (you can purchase this at any hobby store... buy some rod that has threaded ends, usually they have this kind of thing for airplanes...then cut to fit... make sure you have roughly the same amount of threading as on the stock shock, and cut it a couple of inches after the smooth shaft, you will be able to trim this down later....trial and error my friends... if you are handy and understand what you are looking at this should make sense... if you are utterly confused... drive your truck around stock:p) (but wait james how do i make sure the rock is the right diameter?!?! take apart a shock and take the shaft in with you and compare it in the store... get one that is the same width...)

dsc01826: hold the longer shaft with a part of needle nose pliers, or any pliers for that matter... and carefully screw on the bottom of the shock.. do not worry about the rest of the shock, just screw the bottom on to the shaft... carefully, don't strip it...

dsc01827: this is what you should have once you screw it on... (oh almost forgot, go buy some orings.. the more orings you have the higher it will be lifted, the fewer orings less lifted... for whatever look your going for... it should also be obvious what you do with them...)

dsc01828:ok so you can kind of see how the shock is going to be put together... a bit of advice on installation on the truck... screw in the top of the shock on to the shock arms... (just like how you had to unscrew it to take the shock off) once is attached, slide the rod up from under the chassis into the shaft hole of the shock and snap the bottom of the shock into place... if you try and screw it in and snap it in, while the shock is all together it will be a pain in the a...

dsc01829:this is what it should look like when you are all done...
(trouble shooting #1: a couple of things about this... after you do the lssm, and install on the truck and you say to yourself... hey its not level!!! go read this thread
http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25509, you can do what is suggested there, or as i did you can just get a set of front upper arms, and install them on the back...) (trouble shooting #2: "james i installed everything but the shaft keeps popping out!" you cut the shaft too short...)
(trouble shooting #3: "james everything works great but when i put the body on, the front doesn't travel as much!" you need to cut more of the shaft, it is probably hitting on the body under the hood, when you trim, be careful of trouble shooting #2)

dsc01830-dsc01832:now if you are like me and super duper anal... and you say to yourself, i wish i could make it look cleaner... i don't like how those o-rings look... you can buy an xrm toy, and take the shocks off of it and you can make something that looks factory... "wait james, where do they sell the toy, is it still available??" i don't know the answer to that question... but hey, someone in the forsale section is selling a set of xrm shocks with tires, and it's only 10 dollars shipped to the continental united states!!! no way?!?! hint hint... the xrm tires are excellent and in my opinion the best rock crawling tires... uber soft, you have to be careful not to rip them and you have to cut a third nob off unless you don't mind the monster truck look... if you get the xrms, and want to conver them... look at my sig... you can either turn them into stock replacements, or do the lssm to it once you have it apart... again if this is all confusing to you, don't try it...

now if you want a truck that is bad A lifted the right way, with a custom body longer upper shock arms on the back, and a fet stack so you can safely run bigger tires and hotter motors... wait... someone in the forsale section is selling a pimped out overland that looks surprisingly like the one in the pictures in this thread... hint hint....

if you think this is a commercial... in a part it is... SOMEONE BUY MY TRUCK!!!:D

**i claim no responsibility for anyones trucks and or parts... if you decide to modify your truck you do so at your own risk, i do not and will not claim any responsibility for what i have written, in other words you try this and it don't work, thats on you, not me!**

james399
2008.03.06, 11:34 PM
http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=293332#post293332

james399
2008.03.06, 11:35 PM
HOLY HOT DOODY BATMAN, DID YOU CHECK OUT THIS THREAD?

http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=293332#post293332

james399
2008.03.06, 11:37 PM
WOW THATS A NICE TRUCK, I WISH I COULD HAVE ONE

http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=293332#post293332

james399
2008.03.08, 03:59 AM
On a side note, please feel free to add to this, i know this does not cover all the nuances or variations on this...

i know there are also guys out there that know a hell of a lot more about this than i do,

if you look at the thread for lowering the truck in my sig... hammer z has some great input into this... i'm sure he has experimented with this far more than i have...

again all input is great and again this was for the community...

HammerZ
2008.03.08, 08:50 PM
Thanks for the props. I would add to look into the lowdown shock set as it has shorter springs, not as much tension on lowered shocks as a full OL spring. And also you can mix and match with the blue parts for your shocks.

Overall a good write up.

Jace1283
2008.03.19, 06:57 PM
can you link the pics in the instructions? it makes it a lot easier to use and much better instructions...it's easy! :)
EDIT: is this picture too big?, maybe thats why its not linked...
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24215&d=1204864263

james399
2008.03.19, 08:20 PM
can you link the pics in the instructions? it makes it a lot easier to use and much better instructions...it's easy! see :)
EDIT: is this picture too big?, maybe thats why its not linked...
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24215&d=1204864263

it will take forever to load for some people... and some people won't need all the pictures...

trust me, i think this is the best way... there are just too many pictures for it to be efficient...

if you want to cut and past my instructions, or summarize them, and insert pictures... feel free... if you want to show your own progress etc... feel free, i don't take ownership of the pictures or this thread, it was for the community, do as you please...

if you have any specific questions, i will try and clarify...

Jace1283
2008.03.20, 12:42 AM
i have a question for the piece in the shock for the lift.

i have a hobby shop nearby thats all about flying stuff for the most part...what would i call that rod with the thread and what it its diameter? Isn't the shock operation less smooth without the screw head? Does anyone know of any other options for a lift rod? I just got another set of shocks and plan to do this. thanks

fixed13
2008.03.20, 01:05 AM
i have a question for the piece in the shock for the lift.

i have a hobby shop nearby thats all about flying stuff for the most part...what would i call that rod with the thread and what it its diameter? Isn't the shock operation less smooth without the screw head? Does anyone know of any other options for a lift rod? I just got another set of shocks and plan to do this. thanks

I am not sure about what the rod is called but it is easy enough to find if they have alot of airplane stuff, it maybe a control rod. As far as slop without the screw head, find a piece of something that fits inside the top of the shock but still allows the rod to pass through without binding, it has been a long time since I did this mod but I think I used a piece of antenna tube.

james399
2008.03.20, 12:48 PM
I am not sure about what the rod is called but it is easy enough to find if they have alot of airplane stuff, it maybe a control rod. As far as slop without the screw head, find a piece of something that fits inside the top of the shock but still allows the rod to pass through without binding, it has been a long time since I did this mod but I think I used a piece of antenna tube.

jace1283: it is called a control rod, when you go look for it, take the screw in with you, and tell them you need to find the same diameter... usually, the rod will be over a foot long... it is used on airplanes to adjust the tail flaps up and down and side to side... as for less smooth operation, no not really, but the only preload on the shock is from the weight of the body... so it will not necessarily level out the body after a hard turn or whatever... what you can do, is melt the rod a little bit and make a little blob at the end, ... (royal pain in the a) also check out the thread in my sig on how to convert the xrm shocks into stock replacements... not as much lift as a true lssm... but over a nice setup, with appropiate preload etc... i do have a set of the xrm shocks and tires left for sale... check the forsale section, and see if it is an option for you...

fixed 13, if you get the right diameter rod, there shouldn't be too much slop, and antenna tubing and such, i think would cause more binding... post some picts of what you did, so others can see compare etc etc...

fixed13
2008.03.20, 11:56 PM
fixed 13, if you get the right diameter rod, there shouldn't be too much slop, and antenna tubing and such, i think would cause more binding... post some picts of what you did, so others can see compare etc etc...[/QUOTE]

I will try to get the camera from the wife in the near future.

The rod is the same diameter as the screw shank so it slides through the hole in the bottom of the shock, the head on the stock screw keeps it centered in the shock body. Without the screw head the rod has some play as it "pivots" in the hole because it is not supported for more than 1mm as it passes through the hole. Yes you are correct about binding, that could be a problem if you do not use something with the correct inside diameter, I have not had any binding issues and the shocks are much more linear now that I added the lining to the shock body.

I hope that made some sense without pics.:)

HammerZ
2008.03.22, 04:53 AM
The stuff I used was a .078" music wire (very close to the 2 millimeters) that I threaded myself. The control rods are an easier way to go as it already has those threads cut, but I think you have about an inch threads on one end. Those control rods are a softer material as well, easier to cut. Last tip is cutting the threaded end down, get about two nuts that will thread on there. Jam them together below the cut off point. This way after you cut the threaded end down, remove the nuts it will straighten out the collapsed thread from cutting.

I myself don't like the liners as I want the rod to push out around the upper mounting screws as it collapses and pop back up with the rebound. That is a situation that can cause it to bind up if you have a liner in there. I tried the styrene tube and the antenna tube as well. The spring locates the shock body enough for the rod to move up and down with no trouble at all. If your springs are set up on a few o rings or other spacers, that can be a different story though.

Jace1283
2008.03.24, 06:50 PM
so i got some stock OL shocks off ebay and got them today. i went to the local hobby shop and poked around until i found some rod for something that flys that had threaded ends and same diameter as th OL screw. I cut off the right length and some thread which was the same size thread :) . It wasn't very smooth so i polished it with a dremel and polishing compound. Other than having to polish it this pole was perrrrfect. 3.99 for 2 rods, cut each one in half for each shock

I put it together but i still need to push the spring down with something and the pole hits the screw on the mount causing some friction. I only did the backs and hopefully i'll get some pics. Right now its not as smooth as i'd like it to be.

i'm thinking i may get the rods to just the right size and put a ball of solder on top so i can make them short so they can be inside the shock and not hitting the mount screw

james399
2008.03.24, 07:23 PM
so i got some stock OL shocks off ebay and got them today. i went to the local hobby shop and poked around until i found some rod for something that flys that had threaded ends and same diameter as th OL screw. I cut off the right length and some thread which was the same size thread :) . It wasn't very smooth so i polished it with a dremel and polishing compound. Other than having to polish it this pole was perrrrfect. 3.99 for 2 rods, cut each one in half for each shock

I put it together but i still need to push the spring down with something and the pole hits the screw on the mount causing some friction. I only did the backs and hopefully i'll get some pics. Right now its not as smooth as i'd like it to be.

i'm thinking i may get the rods to just the right size and put a ball of solder on top so i can make them short so they can be inside the shock and not hitting the mount screw

ok, without pictures of what you did, it is a little difficult to diagnose... did you just do the lssm, did you lift it using oring spacers? the length of the shock shaft will really depend on how much you lift it... also with the rears, check my reference to another thread up above, you can either use one of the plastic bushings, or get longer rods for the front and put em on back...
as for binding, hitting the screws on the shock mount... uh that is not supposed to happen... lol...

so if i were you, try doing all 4, take a pictures and ill try and help you out... it might be cuz it is way staggered...

also i'm not sure what you mean by, i need to find something to push the spring down...

fixed13
2008.03.24, 11:22 PM
Ok, here are some pics of how I did mine, I sleeved the inside of the shock so there is no pivot motion, then as was stated earlyer, the shaft hit the upper shock screw so I replaced the stock bushing with a piece of fuel tubing (yellow washer). All works perfect, no binding.

fixed13
2008.03.24, 11:37 PM
Ok, what happened, more pics.

Jace1283
2008.03.25, 01:28 AM
thanks fixed13, thats helpful

here's an idea for you guys, why use a rod at all?

fixed13
2008.03.25, 01:43 AM
thanks fixed13, thats helpful

here's an idea for you guys, why use a rod at all?

What would you use? Nothing? That idea was tried with the xmods, not sure how well it worked, they used magnets. The rod keeps it all in line so you have a linear shock movement, otherwise I think there would be to much play in the suspension. When I first did mine, without the liner, I felt that there was to much play, so I can't imagine what it would be like without the rod. This is just my opinion, PLEASE TRY NEW STUFF AND LET US KNOW HOW IT WORKS FOR YOU. If people do not try new stuff we will not have new ideas and inovations. How do you think we got were we are today. People tried new ideas. Have a go at it, I am always open to new ideas. :)

james399
2008.03.25, 02:06 AM
thanks fixed13, thats helpful

here's an idea for you guys, why use a rod at all?

it's been done, do a search for nssm... some people say it works great....

james399
2008.03.25, 02:12 AM
What would you use? Nothing? That idea was tried with the xmods, not sure how well it worked, they used magnets. The rod keeps it all in line so you have a linear shock movement, otherwise I think there would be to much play in the suspension. When I first did mine, without the liner, I felt that there was to much play, so I can't imagine what it would be like without the rod. This is just my opinion, PLEASE TRY NEW STUFF AND LET US KNOW HOW IT WORKS FOR YOU. If people do not try new stuff we will not have new ideas and inovations. How do you think we got were we are today. People tried new ideas. Have a go at it, I am always open to new ideas. :)

as for too much play... i think a little play is helpful so that you get slight side to side movement when you are trying to go up things... just imo...

what was the purpose of the inner yellow spring? it limits the amount your shock can compress, thus reducing shock travel/articulation? or if you use the yellow spring, why bother with the stock spring?? it seems like over kill.. for off roading purpose, i find it much more affective to use the stock spring, so it will be softer, i.e. easier for it to compress, it will be more likely to go over things... considering it is rear wheel drive... now if you wanted to drive your truck lifted and have it be steadier on pavement..., then i can understand why you have the layered springs...

HammerZ
2008.03.25, 03:09 AM
The way I did my LSSM's was the top was ground to a ramp like shape to glide over the upper mounting screws. The overall length was cut for the max travel. My rear shocks have a longer rod than the front shocks have. For the F 150 body you will need holes for them to poke through, The stock H1 body is the same case. I have a modded H1 body with the roof out to the rear. The front rods are kept short enough. I wanted to keep my front a little tighter, as so it would not rip up my servo wires.

The no rod method I think used glue to glue the springs to the shock body. I never liked that as the springs would double up like a slinky. The lower mount you have that collar that slides off, great more parts to glue up.

I have used the Xmods gen one springs inside mine for better track running as without them the OL has way too much body roll. But I take them out for crawling. With them in it is like a progressive shock as the OL spring is like a helper in this case. It is a trip running a lifted rig around the track, I do get a better idea of the CG on the turns.

fixed13
2008.03.25, 10:15 PM
as for too much play... i think a little play is helpful so that you get slight side to side movement when you are trying to go up things... just imo...

what was the purpose of the inner yellow spring? it limits the amount your shock can compress, thus reducing shock travel/articulation? or if you use the yellow spring, why bother with the stock spring?? it seems like over kill.. for off roading purpose, i find it much more affective to use the stock spring, so it will be softer, i.e. easier for it to compress, it will be more likely to go over things... considering it is rear wheel drive... now if you wanted to drive your truck lifted and have it be steadier on pavement..., then i can understand why you have the layered springs...

You are correct, it does limit travel, Just the stock spring alone seemed to soft. I have not tried OL upgrade springs yet. Plus I just like to try different things, see how they work.

james399
2008.03.26, 03:11 AM
You are correct, it does limit travel, Just the stock spring alone seemed to soft. I have not tried OL upgrade springs yet. Plus I just like to try different things, see how they work.

word, soft is good for offroad slash crawling... bad for on road, flat surfaces...

so depending on what you want to do as for trying stuff... word...

HammerZ
2008.03.26, 07:40 AM
I do more than crawl with mine, as I have been known to run it around like a stadium truck. Flying over RCP jumps and such. For that the progressive spring setup helps a great deal for all the pounding it takes. The expanded foam track helps some, but still the suspension parts and mounting points do take more than there share of abuse.

fixed13
2008.03.26, 11:55 PM
word, soft is good for offroad slash crawling... bad for on road, flat surfaces...

so depending on what you want to do as for trying stuff... word...

If I have parts around I will add and remove till I find what I like, as far as crawling goes I have yet to beat my heavily modified X-Mod, yea I know, don't mention those around here, but it does work very well. The OL gets used on the off road stuff that is not "crawling", just general offroad due to the better handling and overall better performance at a decent wheel speed.

Jace1283
2008.03.27, 03:13 PM
Alright, so after some frustration using the longer rods, i went to my trusty hot glue gun and once again shows why i call it "liquid chassis". Basically i just repositioned the shocks lower so it lifts the chassis. The front has no friction issues but the back did for some reason so i took out the screws alltogether and just glued the bottom spring support in place and also glued the spring to the shock, doesn't get any smoother than that! I'm surprised and pretty happy with the result. Maybe it will fit those xmod offroad wheels i've been wanting to put on!

http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/19353543/310541917.jpg

http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/19353543/310541910.jpg

http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/19353543/310541907.jpg

fixed13
2008.03.28, 03:16 AM
Not sure why you had issues, but I don't like the sound of hot glue. It should all be screwed in place for max strength. When I did the LSSM it was the first mod I did on any truck, not real hard. I want you to get the max out of your truck, if you have any question feel free to PM me. If I am not here I am on Scale4x4.org, just add an extra 13 to my user name. I will help any way I can.:)

james399
2008.03.28, 03:31 AM
Alright, so after some frustration using the longer rods, i went to my trusty hot glue gun and once again shows why i call it "liquid chassis". Basically i just repositioned the shocks lower so it lifts the chassis. The front has no friction issues but the back did for some reason so i took out the screws alltogether and just glued the bottom spring support in place and also glued the spring to the shock, doesn't get any smoother than that! I'm surprised and pretty happy with the result. Maybe it will fit those xmod offroad wheels i've been wanting to put on!

truck looks nice lifted... uh, hot glue gun?? not so sure about the longevity of that... lol...

as for the lssm... keep trying rod is cheap... and it will look cleaner imo....

leave the rod a little longer and run the truck without the body on, to make sure everything move and works well, then trim to make sure you get clearance without the shaft falling out when it articulates...

as for the rear binding thing, check the referenced thread in the original post...

also keep in mind you get even more articulation with the lssm than what you did because of the increased length of the shock shaft....

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24162&d=1204096570

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24161&d=1204096520

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24160&d=1204096509

Jace1283
2008.03.28, 02:31 PM
this took like 10 mins once the glue gun was warmed up, even if something does go wrong itll be fixed as soon as the gun is warmed up. The articulation in the rear is increased. I don't care much about looks. I've used hot glue for years and it should hold up well, it does stress over time though.

I'll see how long this lasts while still trying to get the lift shocks working. I have 3 problems with it though:

-Need the right size spacer to guide the rod
-Need something so the mount screw can go in farther cause it hits the rod
-I need rings or whatever to push the spring down on the shock

I simply dont have this stuff. I ended up putting the offroad tires from xmod lift kit on and it looks pretty good! I can't believe the transformation that all happened in one day. I have a little setup downstairs and it goes over stufft quite a bit better with the clearance and bigger tires. It may be time to put the xspeed in. Its more tippy though and lost some of its hill climbing ability(wheelie flips). Its really fun driving it on my wood floor, it leans all over the place but doesnt flip, looks cool!

james399
2008.03.28, 04:01 PM
-Need the right size spacer to guide the rod
-Need something so the mount screw can go in farther cause it hits the rod
-I need rings or whatever to push the spring down on the shock



1. you do not need a spacer in your shock to guide your rod... i don't run one, and it is fine... if you want one and not willing to take no for an answer, look at antenna tubing, for larger scale rc, and cut to size... (really you dont need it..)

2. ok this is why you dont want the inner liner, you can bend the rod ever so slightly so it will point out away from the shock so it doesn't hit (cheap way to go) (kind of like how a previous poster mentioned grinding it down to make a little ramp so it slides over easy)
or you can cut off the red part that hits, and use a black washer (what i did) http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24153&d=1204096384

3. even if you don't lift the chassis using orings..and just rock it lssm no lift, you will still get more articulation at a stock ride hide... because you will have greater shock travel, via droop... which means greater articulation greater offroading capability, not to mention you will get a slight lift, because of reduced preload......
you can buy black rubber o-rings and such at any auto parts store, and or home depot... a box of 10-12 should not cost you more than 5 bucks...

hope that helps...

fixed13
2008.03.29, 12:00 AM
1. you do not need a spacer in your shock to guide your rod... i don't run one, and it is fine... if you want one and not willing to take no for an answer, look at antenna tubing, for larger scale rc, and cut to size... (really you dont need it..)

2. ok this is why you dont want the inner liner, you can bend the rod ever so slightly so it will point out away from the shock so it doesn't hit (cheap way to go) (kind of like how a previous poster mentioned grinding it down to make a little ramp so it slides over easy)
or you can cut off the red part that hits, and use a black washer (what i did) http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24153&d=1204096384

3. even if you don't lift the chassis using orings..and just rock it lssm no lift, you will still get more articulation at a stock ride hide... because you will have greater shock travel, via droop... which means greater articulation greater offroading capability, not to mention you will get a slight lift, because of reduced preload......
you can buy black rubber o-rings and such at any auto parts store, and or home depot... a box of 10-12 should not cost you more than 5 bucks...

hope that helps...

I agree with james, you do not need the inner guide, I used it because I felt it worked better, it can always be added later. For the O-rings I would say $5 is even a high estimate on cost, any big box hardware store will have packs of 10-12. For the binding issue with the mount screw, if you look at the pics I posted you will see a yellow (tan in the pics) washer under the mount screw, this is a piece of fuel tubing, cut approx 1/16 -1/8 thick. This can be purchased at the LHS for a few dollars for a 12" piece.

Just an added note, if you do not know what o-rings are they can be found in the plumbing dept in various sizes, very usefull for lots of things. Having a few sizes around will come in handy.:)

Jace1283
2008.03.29, 03:19 PM
Thing is, even without something to guide it, it may work fine, but the rod is no longer moving consistently which will cause funny wear patterns. My biggest problem right now is actually the REAR center arm thing underneath, the ball joint doesn't like the increased angle and binds up a bit, i have gpm ones on the way and i'm hoping they will be ok

Here's a little video guys! Hope you like it. I ended up finding spacers for the spring! Turns out an xmod plastic bearing is a perfect fit :)

VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcYr4u1txVU

Some pics
http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/19353543/311075784.jpg

http://pic70.picturetrail.com/VOL1841/8532638/19353543/311075773.jpg