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pinoyboy
2008.03.08, 06:45 PM
So, I was racing my ASF car today in a 7 minute main with TSR 900 batteries on the stock readyset kyosho motor. With about 1 minute left, the car started to "glitch". Soon after, the car basically stopped responding. I think I was able to turn it on and off again and it responded, but I don't remember.

I'd like to say the fets have been replaced, however, even with the 3010 fets, it happened, but after about 15 minutes. Any ideas I should check besides the fets?:confused:

arch2b
2008.03.08, 06:52 PM
sounds like the same trouble many had with ad-band:(

byebye
2008.03.08, 07:01 PM
Maybe the motors overcurrent protection kicked in? Don't those motors have a built in circuit breaker?

Kris

Rune
2008.03.08, 07:06 PM
Check the batteries in your radio.

I use some old rechargeable cells in mine, and they dont last for long until it starts to have the same kind of problems you describe here.

About 4 hours is what I get out of mine before it starts to glitch and almost shutting down. This always happens when I apply full throttle out of turns.

Add some newly charged batteries, and its good to go again.

bermbuster
2008.03.08, 07:09 PM
So, I was racing my ASF car today in a 7 minute main with TSR 900 batteries on the stock readyset kyosho motor. With about 1 minute left, the car started to "glitch". Soon after, the car basically stopped responding. I think I was able to turn it on and off again and it responded, but I don't remember.

I'd like to say the fets have been replaced, however, even with the 3010 fets, it happened, but after about 15 minutes. Any ideas I should check besides the fets?:confused:

sounds like the same trouble many had with ad-band:(

If the car shut off and you were able to reset it by off/on it could be a static problem like the AD boards. At our track(Majs) we use Static Guard spray with excellent results. When the motor overload protection kicks in it will not come back until it cools down...
I am now curious to see what is happening....Let us know....

arch2b
2008.03.08, 07:26 PM
static guard did nothing to fix my ad band awd from shutting down on rcp:(

i was happy and worried to see 4 aaa tx batteries. how much time will this give us with the tx? i guess it's a good thing i'm switching to my ex-10 as soon as the modules are out.

pinoyboy
2008.03.08, 07:26 PM
This k motor is from before they added the resettable fuse. My mistake for not mentioning it earlier!:p

It actually could be as simple as bad TX batteries, as they are some cells that I don't use for racing anymore. I'll update when I can:D

Rune
2008.03.08, 07:33 PM
static guard did nothing to fix my ad band awd from shutting down on rcp:(

i was happy and worried to see 4 aaa tx batteries. how much time will this give us with the tx? i guess it's a good thing i'm switching to my ex-10 as soon as the modules are out.

I get about 4 hours of running from some old Sanyo 700mah cells before it starts to glitch.

I think it is ok, but was a little worried when I first noticed these "problems".

pfcparts
2008.03.08, 08:46 PM
Keep us updated pb.

I haven't had that problem, but I have had an issue with the batteries getting really really hot to the touch in the chassis after abit of runtime 10-15min while using a stock r.

Not the TSR cells (as those run pretty much boss and keep relatively cool), but my old reliable energizers which I use as backups and now mainly as tx batts...

I was shocked as I've never had a set get that hot in any car... I actually put them in an ammo box as I thought they were going to vent/explode lol.

The motor was fine on an adband ride though, I don't see why it wouldn't be fine on the asf...


parts

bermbuster
2008.03.08, 09:53 PM
Keep us updated pb.

I haven't had that problem, but I have had an issue with the batteries getting really really hot to the touch in the chassis after abit of runtime 10-15min while using a stock r.

Not the TSR cells (as those run pretty much boss and keep relatively cool), but my old reliable energizers which I use as backups and now mainly as tx batts...

I was shocked as I've never had a set get that hot in any car... I actually put them in an ammo box as I thought they were going to vent/explode lol.

The motor was fine on an adband ride though, I don't see why it wouldn't be fine on the asf...


parts

The batteries getting hot is because the motor and the esc are now allowing the electrons to flow.....the cells cannot discharge quick enough making the heat.....the stock r is too much motor for the older cells....
you have to be careful if the cells do vent or weep the acid may ruin your chassis and your electronics....time for more team scream cells....:D

bermbuster
2008.03.08, 10:00 PM
static guard did nothing to fix my ad band awd from shutting down on rcp:(

i was happy and worried to see 4 aaa tx batteries. how much time will this give us with the tx? i guess it's a good thing i'm switching to my ex-10 as soon as the modules are out.

too bad the Static Guard didnt work for you....we lightly spray the inside of the body then spray a wipe then rub down the chassis(bottom) and it works....

the best aaas to use in the tx will be alkalines. They will have 1.5v to start giving the tx more power....the best nmh would be the new sanyo eneloops...

pinoyboy
2008.03.08, 11:00 PM
I took out the batteries from the KT-18 and put them in my Lacrosse charger. Voltage was around 1.3v. I'm not sure if thats low enough for the TX.

I did check the manual for the KT-18 and it said the main LED on the back of the TX will turn yellow if the batteries start to get too low. Mine hasn't showed signs of turning yellow yet.:o

pfcparts
2008.03.08, 11:04 PM
I thought it would just dim...

Nice catch hank. Let us know how it turns out.

---

I see.

Thanks for the heads up berm.

I was really really shocked when I touched the batts lol. They didn't leak in the ammo box and look fine now. I guess they'll be regulated to tx batts now.

I think I am more than covered on the TSR cells lol.

Sidenote: I was actually running the same set up and batts on an adband ride with no issues... All I did was transplant the parts fromt he adband ride I had...

These new boards can't be that much over the older ones...? :eek:

parts

Tim Johnson
2008.03.08, 11:31 PM
More than likely the batteries in your car were going below operational voltage for the PCB board. When the voltage of the batteries in the car get below 3 volts the car will shut off. It is NOT A GLITCH, it is a power deal. Now, this will be an under load voltage. That is why you can drive around using a little power, but once you gun it, the load is enough to drop the voltage.

May be Team Orion 1100s or 900s are more suited for the 7 minute heats.:D;)

pinoyboy
2008.03.08, 11:55 PM
More than likely the batteries in your car were going below operational voltage for the PCB board. When the voltage of the batteries in the car get below 3 volts the car will shut off. It is NOT A GLITCH, it is a power deal. Now, this will be an under load voltage. That is why you can drive around using a little power, but once you gun it, the load is enough to drop the voltage.

May be Team Orion 1100s or 900s are more suited for the 7 minute heats.:D;)

So I'm assuming this is something new in the ASF boards, just like the .2 second reverse delay? If it is, there still must not be something right. I've have more than 7 minutes on a stock kyosho motor:p

I guess I can look over my fet job again, but I have feeling that they might not be the problem since I did have this problem with 3010s. I'll check the old AD band shut down thread to see if anything will help out:D

Tim Johnson
2008.03.09, 12:07 AM
The ASF system is digital, not analog. The car has no choise but to shut down when the input voltage gets too low. If the car is doing that, you more than likely are discharging your batteries down to far. If I remember correctly .8 volts per cell is the lowest you want to go while discharging.

Rune
2008.03.09, 06:14 AM
More than likely the batteries in your car were going below operational voltage for the PCB board. When the voltage of the batteries in the car get below 3 volts the car will shut off. It is NOT A GLITCH, it is a power deal. Now, this will be an under load voltage. That is why you can drive around using a little power, but once you gun it, the load is enough to drop the voltage.

May be Team Orion 1100s or 900s are more suited for the 7 minute heats.:D;)

I have had this "glitch" a few times, and the fix has always been to change batts in the tx. The batteries in the car has never been the problem for me.

It is no problem for me.
The ASF system works really great.

Tim Johnson
2008.03.09, 08:41 AM
I have had this "glitch" a few times, and the fix has always been to change batts in the tx. The batteries in the car has never been the problem for me.

It is no problem for me.
The ASF system works really great.

Were you using rechargeable batteries or Alkaline?

Rune
2008.03.09, 10:47 AM
Were you using rechargeable batteries or Alkaline?


Old rechargeable Sanye 700mah cells. These have a bit low voltage, so I am sure this is why it behaves like this.
It is good that these old cells stil can be used.

What is strange is that the tx does not indicate low battery when this starts to happen.
I just charge a couple of sets before racenight. No problem.

pinoyboy
2008.03.09, 02:24 PM
Thanks Rune for that info, I thought the TX would indicate low battery before losing signal too. From what you just said, it does seem to be the board and not just the TX.

Next race, I'll put in some fully charged batteries for the main:p

pinoyboy
2008.03.09, 07:34 PM
Just got done trying to run another 7 minutes on a different ASF car. This car has not been opened up, it still has 2x2 3010 fets. Its running a 44T fet safe motor made by Flashsp-2. I've ran it on 3004 fets with no problems.

I put in some charged energizers in the TX and the LED now shines very bright. I took some fully charged Duracell 1000s right off the charger and put them in the car. I ran only 2.5 minutes and the car "glitched" and shut down:(

I'm going to try ASF number three and see what happens. I was going to update all my cars to 2.4ghz, but now with the problems that i'm having, I'll keep some spare AM boards:o:(

pinoyboy
2008.03.09, 07:52 PM
I forgot that I didn't setup the 3rd ASF car, its still sitting as a chassis:p, so I tested the car that I had this problem with in the beginning.

I did the same process as the last post, except replacing the TX batteries, as the LED shines bright still. I took some practice laps and started Core. With a minute in, it shut down:(

I'll try some different fully charged TX batteries and see what happens. Other than that, I'm still pretty clueless as what to do:confused:

mleemor60
2008.03.09, 09:02 PM
Hank,
check PM

Tim Johnson
2008.03.09, 09:51 PM
are you using the same TX on all three cars?

If not, I would have to say you are doing something wrong.

Regardless, Monday morning, call our CS number 800-716-4518. Explain to them what is going on with your ASF.

ruf
2008.03.09, 10:14 PM
Tim - check your PM and give me a call please. :)

hpgod
2008.03.10, 09:59 AM
Hank we can try try a 1/10 scale trick. Solder a 25 volt cap( radio shack) accros the +- teminal on the battery. The side of the can with the line in it is the negative. This will keep voltage drop spike from dropping so low. Pn sells a flat cap also. This is a requirement on 1/10 onroad these days due to the current the motors pull. The cars pull so many amps coing out of corners that the esc and receivers both need caps to prevent shutdown.

PS 2.4 ASF thanks for the win. I had just crashed giving Hank a 5 second lead when his board shut down. AM was bad at this track also as the was a 2 1/2 foot dead zone in the sweeper going onto the straight.

pinoyboy
2008.03.10, 10:34 AM
Hank we can try try a 1/10 scale trick. Solder a 25 volt cap( radio shack) accros the +- teminal on the battery. The side of the can with the line in it is the negative. This will keep voltage drop spike from dropping so low. Pn sells a flat cap also. This is a requirement on 1/10 onroad these days due to the current the motors pull. The cars pull so many amps coing out of corners that the esc and receivers both need caps to prevent shutdown.

PS 2.4 ASF thanks for the win. I had just crashed giving Hank a 5 second lead when his board shut down. AM was bad at this track also as the was a 2 1/2 foot dead zone in the sweeper going onto the straight.

Yea, it stunk pretty bad. With a minute left, it gave out on me:(.

Slubben
2008.03.14, 12:37 AM
Was racing tonight drove up to the starting line and the car stopped responding when I was trying to line up in the starting grid. I had to turn my transmitter on and off to get the car to respond again. This happened to me several times during the same 5 minute race It does seem like it may have happened when i was getting on throttle after exiting a corner most of the time . I am running an Atomic Stock R with Orion 900 Mah batteries that are new. Is this similar to what others have experienced? As for the transmitter batts they are Intellect 750s and I just charged them on Saturday and had not run the car since racing that day. The light on the transmitter was blue I can not really say if it was a dim blue or bright blue but, it was not yellow blinking or anything...

EMU
2008.03.14, 01:33 AM
Slubben, the one thing about the Intellect cells, is that they do not hold the power well over time even when not in use. I wouldnt use them in my transmitter. I would suggest 800mah Sanyo Eneloop or similar cells. I have issues getting 900mah or higher cells to work, seems like they cant fit into the battery compartment properly... maybe just a little too large.

I am starting to wish that they had used AA's!

Slubben
2008.03.14, 02:06 AM
I think I am going to try alkaline batts as they hold more voltage.

EMU
2008.03.14, 02:11 AM
I was thinking the same, although I like to be environmentally friendly, so I use rechargeables :D At the moment I am using some old Sanyo 800s that I used to race with. They have run flat, and dont hold much charge anymore (about 500mah discharged at 1A), but they dont drop off as fast as the Intellects when not in use.

bermbuster
2008.03.14, 08:23 AM
I measured the intellects from Slubbens TX and they were 5.3 v under no load....Im using energizer 900s and i use a fresh charged pack each day....
So far no issues... with the TX just isues w the driver....:D
In my Helios I always use Alkalines...the extra voltage gives my TX flawless operation and a long cycle....

Slubben
2008.03.14, 08:39 AM
Lets hope I can figure out what the problem is or I just might pull a Jimmy and the Mini-z pieces will be flying.

arch2b
2008.03.14, 09:30 AM
Sanyo Eneloops may be a very good choice due to their ability to hold a charge for extended periods of time when not in use.

i will be using orion 1100's i just for this tx. i have 4 packs. can you get energizer lithiums in aaa? these are a popular choice for aa tx cells.

i am seriously looking forward to getting the helios module just so i don't have to worry about these issues.

ruf
2008.03.14, 09:32 AM
The guys at Kenon have had good luck with alkalines and Better Power BP1000's. :D

Slubben
2008.03.14, 09:48 AM
Are we 100% sure that the module will solve the reverse issue and the shutting down? I am still not sure its my TX batts that caused that.

bermbuster
2008.03.14, 10:29 AM
Are we 100% sure that the module will solve the reverse issue and the shutting down? I am still not sure its my TX batts that caused that.

I would install some alkaline aaas and leave the car and tx powered up and see if you lose power....let it sit and every 5 minutes see if it will run...
you will get your answer pretty quick. My thinking is a a tx...4cells is now half the power we are currently using for Tx transmission...that is why I think we are seeing transmission/communication errors...another thing to check is the led in the car when you do your testing leave the body off and see is the led going out?

pinoyboy
2008.03.14, 10:30 AM
I'm hoping that module comes out ASAP, as its hard to keep the TX happy. I think I had problems when my batteries in my TX were some what low, and also when I just took them off the charger.

Slubben
2008.03.14, 10:35 AM
I guess I have several things to try. Tx batts, go back to using the forever 900s and not the Orions to see if too much current is flowing and checking to see if the LED stays on.

marc
2008.03.23, 10:30 PM
Has anybody thought of useing Energizer's AAA lithium batteries in the transmitter? They last a long time, but will the voltage be too much for the transmitter? I am getting concerned about my new car misbehaving on Saturday. I expect it to be a winner. I have not changed anything to the car at all except for adding ball bearings and new rim's. Everything else is stock. What should I do to prevent early shut downs? We usually race no more than 10 minutes each heat I think.

benmlee
2008.03.24, 12:53 AM
If the car shuts down even after a freshly charged batter, my experiance is the transmitter is defective. There seems to be a batch of bad transmitter. The first one I got had the throttle reversed. Since then I found out there is a hidden reverse function on the transmitter that is not mentioned in the instruction. Actually my 3 year old son found out for me when he tried to drive the car around the track. That is another story. The second one had shut down problem. Car would shut down every 1 to 3 laps. After the third return in one night, it was perfect. Good thing this was at the PN racetrack where the store is next door. Even when a week old battery is used, it still ran perfect. Interestingly, another person at the track had shut down problem as well. When he turned on his transmitter, my car and another person's ASF car started to glitch, then my car shut down. So looks like a bad transmitter not only affects your own car, but someone else's car as well. So do other people a favor, and give Tim a call to check out your transmitter if the car is shutting down.

EMU
2008.03.24, 02:53 AM
Mine shuts down every now and then. Its the only reason I havent been racing with it. When it runs, it runs great. Better than any of my other cars. The controller is the only problem that I have had with the ASF. I have started to adjust to the feel, however, I never know when it is going to shut down. Its very irritating.

The only controller you can use with the car, doesnt work properly. If you have to exchange it 3 times to get a good one... That is rediculous. My local track sold out of their order instantly. It will take at least 2 weeks to get any replacements. I would have liked to use it in the Atomic regional, but it looks like I will have to use my AM car. Especailly if someone else having a faulty transmitter may shut yours off...

My car never shuts off, the transmitter just loses connection with the car. If I shut off and on the transmitter it reconnects and works perfectly for a while. I allways turn on the transmitter before turning on the car, and turn off the car before turning off the transmitter.

My friends transmitter shuts down as well. Using Intellects and Alkalines... He has to bind it every once in a while, since it loses it somehow. Another friend has no problems.

I dont think its a problem with the batteries. I have tried a bunch. Some dont fit... out of all the ones I have that fit, I have had shutdowns. Sanyo 800, Intellect, Duratrax, Alkaline... Happens when the batteries are off the charger, and when rested for a few minutes after charge as well. It is not a problem with the batteries.

Reminds me too much of Iwaver. Not enough QC. To have such a poor percentage of transmitters that work properly. I wouldnt have expected this sort of issue with Kyosho.

pinoyboy
2008.03.24, 07:48 AM
Mine shuts down every now and then. Its the only reason I havent been racing with it. When it runs, it runs great. Better than any of my other cars. The controller is the only problem that I have had with the ASF. I have started to adjust to the feel, however, I never know when it is going to shut down. Its very irritating.

The only controller you can use with the car, doesnt work properly. If you have to exchange it 3 times to get a good one... That is rediculous. My local track sold out of their order instantly. It will take at least 2 weeks to get any replacements. I would have liked to use it in the Atomic regional, but it looks like I will have to use my AM car. Especailly if someone else having a faulty transmitter may shut yours off...

My car never shuts off, the transmitter just loses connection with the car. If I shut off and on the transmitter it reconnects and works perfectly for a while. I allways turn on the transmitter before turning on the car, and turn off the car before turning off the transmitter.

My friends transmitter shuts down as well. Using Intellects and Alkalines... He has to bind it every once in a while, since it loses it somehow. Another friend has no problems.

I dont think its a problem with the batteries. I have tried a bunch. Some dont fit... out of all the ones I have that fit, I have had shutdowns. Sanyo 800, Intellect, Duratrax, Alkaline... Happens when the batteries are off the charger, and when rested for a few minutes after charge as well. It is not a problem with the batteries.

Reminds me too much of Iwaver. Not enough QC. To have such a poor percentage of transmitters that work properly. I wouldnt have expected this sort of issue with Kyosho.

Sounds exactly like what I'm having again. So thats how many people now experiencing this? I called Kyosho America and they said I can send it in for testing. I'm not exactly sure about the turn around time, but I should be ok since the next race isn't until 4/6

Volt
2008.03.26, 05:05 PM
If the car shuts down even after a freshly charged batter, my experiance is the transmitter is defective. There seems to be a batch of bad transmitter. The first one I got had the throttle reversed. Since then I found out there is a hidden reverse function on the transmitter that is not mentioned in the instruction.

I found the hidden throttle reversal by accident as well. It took me a little bit to figure out what was going on since there is nothing in the manuals about this.

When you are reseting the TX to defaults is when it can reverse the throttle directions (forward becomes reverse and vice versa). The reason is holding the button for too long during the default reset. If you continue to hold the button a second or 2 after the first beeps, you will hear a second beep. This is when the throttle gets switched.

To fix it: reset to defaults again, only release the button as soon as you hear the first beeps. After that it should be working normally.

MikeL
2008.03.28, 08:28 AM
Put a mark down for another car shutting down, first it shut down right at the start of the race then again about 3 mins in, did it for 3 quals then I switched back the am car. I had rebound it after the 2nd qual, new alkys in the transmitter and new 900s in the car, I'm only running a 07bb I can't imagine it would be a voltage issue.

Tim Johnson
2008.03.28, 08:35 AM
Anyone having a car shutting down when you feel that it should not, please follow the instruction manual on resetting the transmitter, and rebind the car and TX. If that does not solve anything, please call Kyosho Customer support for your country.

Racer-HH
2008.03.28, 06:08 PM
Just do as Tim says. Worked absolutely fine for me!

Racer

MikeL
2008.03.28, 11:40 PM
Here's an odd thing I tested today, atomic race is tomorrow no time to send it back, although Maj will be bringing another transmitter in case the issue isn't resolved, but I removed the plastic sleeve over the signal wire. (antenna) I left the car on for over 15 minutes, checking it, with it on it was shutting down in less than 3 mins most of the time.

marc
2008.03.29, 03:28 PM
Hello there. I had a very successfull racing day today. All of our 2.4 GHZ car's worked perfectly in our racing groupe. Mine was perfect as well. No glitches, no shutting off, nothing. The stock tires are pretty impressive as they didn't pop off or spun around. I wonder if some people just got a bad batch or something. I was getting concerned that mine would do the same but it's perfect. I dont' think I'll be upgradeing mine at all, just the ball bearing's I put in it and the new wheels, that's it.

Tjay
2008.03.30, 01:28 PM
I started having a shut down on my 2wd;

-it dies down (steer/throttle) anywhere on the track. during shut down, it will steer on one side for split second then I'm able to steer it to a corner without throttle power just steering then it'll completely shut. When I turned the TX off then on the car is OK again but only for 5 mins or so... Although the TX battery was brand new (alkaline duracells) I still tried it with another new set and still shuts down. After running for almost an hour the car stopped shutting down...? I didn't do anything to the car nor the radio. I know now the car is not shutting down anymore but I would rather have it shut down now so that I can find the problem than having it shut down during the race. Plus why is my shut down weird? It'll steer at almost 90 degree then after split sec I can steer it again? Isn't it suppose to just shut down completely?

pinoyboy
2008.03.30, 02:00 PM
I started having a shut down on my 2wd;

-it dies down (steer/throttle) anywhere on the track. during shut down, it will steer on one side for split second then I'm able to steer it to a corner without throttle power just steering then it'll completely shut. When I turned the TX off then on the car is OK again but only for 5 mins or so... Although the TX battery was brand new (alkaline duracells) I still tried it with another new set and still shuts down. After running for almost an hour the car stopped shutting down...? I didn't do anything to the car nor the radio. I know now the car is not shutting down anymore but I would rather have it shut down now so that I can find the problem than having it shut down during the race. Plus why is my shut down weird? It'll steer at almost 90 degree then after split sec I can steer it again? Isn't it suppose to just shut down completely?

Mine doesn't just doesn't shut down. First it usually cuts in and out like its glitching, then it will usually turn and just die

color01
2008.03.30, 06:07 PM
I just ran into this problem twice; the steering starts getting slow, and then glitchy, and then the motor cuts out. Turn the Tx off and back on though, and everything's good. Any ideas as to what's happening? Without the bodyshell the car drives perfectly fine, with the VDSII on it I get this problem every couple of packs. If it's just due to the lack of transparent plastic, then a normal Autoscale won't trigger the glitching problem, right?

pinoyboy
2008.03.30, 07:11 PM
I just ran into this problem twice; the steering starts getting slow, and then glitchy, and then the motor cuts out. Turn the Tx off and back on though, and everything's good. Any ideas as to what's happening? Without the bodyshell the car drives perfectly fine, with the VDSII on it I get this problem every couple of packs. If it's just due to the lack of transparent plastic, then a normal Autoscale won't trigger the glitching problem, right?

I dunno, I've had it happen under an NSX and C5 body

MikeL
2008.03.30, 09:06 PM
Here's an odd thing I tested today, atomic race is tomorrow no time to send it back, although Maj will be bringing another transmitter in case the issue isn't resolved, but I removed the plastic sleeve over the signal wire. (antenna) I left the car on for over 15 minutes, checking it, with it on it was shutting down in less than 3 mins most of the time.

Car still shutdown on the track, so I went all AM..

ruf
2008.03.30, 09:43 PM
Hi everyone. Sorry to hear that you all have the same issues I'm having with my KT-18. It doesn't have anything to do with the board as we tried a lot of different transmitters and some of them work GREAT. My advice is that you call Kyosho America customer service and politely explain the issue to them. They will ask you to send your transmitter in for a new one. I know this is pretty frustrating for everyone, but be assured that the issue will be fixed.

pfcparts
2008.04.02, 03:09 PM
Finally had one of my 02 asf rides shut down. :(

enzo body.

The car would steer, but the motor just slowed down and then shut died...

I would have to give it a push to start up again, but it would slow down again and stop. :mad: Felt like one of the motor cut offs, but I am running a motor that doesn't have one of those lol.

I don't think it is the tx... batts started getting hot again too...


parts

color01
2008.04.02, 03:18 PM
I dunno, I've had it happen under an NSX and C5 body
I haven't had a single shut down with the MRCG under the NSX. :confused: Do you think it's static, dust, electrical noise, or just a bad Rx/Tx?

Parts- the ASF board does seem to pull a bit more current either to the motor or by itself. My runtimes have dropped 10-20%. But the batteries getting hot... do they get hot in your other cars?

MikeL
2008.04.02, 03:59 PM
I haven't had a single shut down with the MRCG under the NSX. :confused: Do you think it's static, dust, electrical noise, or just a bad Rx/Tx?

Parts- the ASF board does seem to pull a bit more current either to the motor or by itself. My runtimes have dropped 10-20%. But the batteries getting hot... do they get hot in your other cars?

I did try static guard on mine with no different results. I would like to know if there is a fail safe built into the code, because they always glitch before they shutdown.

color01
2008.04.02, 09:22 PM
Joe mentioned the failsafe mode, so you're probably right. The motor is the first to go, and then the steering starts to respond slowly, and then stops responding. Not a bad idea on Kyosho's part, I just wonder why it loses the signal in the first place.

pfcparts
2008.04.02, 10:06 PM
All the asfs I run have that issue after abit of use... the batts really get warm. Just recently I had one finally shut down.

The exact same setups with am/adband units never had batts get this hot...


parts

bobbyz
2008.04.14, 11:45 PM
had read this thread, hoping my car wouldn't succumb to any issues others discribed, but this weekend i had my mini 96 set up and the car just lost contact and the blue led on the radio went out. now here's where i think i can offer some hope. my theory is that a bad battery connection can be one of the problems some of you are facing. when i got the controller turned back on and the car back on as well, i lightly tapped the controller just to see if the power connection could be rattled loose. after a couple taps the blue light went out and the car lost connection again. i inadvertantly pushed up on the black battery holder clip and the led light instantly came back on. i tried again to create the disconnection by lightly tapping. i tapped, the transmitter lost power, i pushed the battery holder clip up, and the power came right back on. so here's the good part... i opened up the transmitter and carefully gave both springs that contact the top of the battery holder clip a bit of a tug to lengthen the springs. since then i've had no more issues. i haven't run a ton of batteries thru my car yet, but so far so good. hopefully this will solve some of the control loss issues of you are experiencing. if your battery holder clip has a bit of play in it, a bad connection could be the issue. i think the two internal springs may not be making good contacts with the two post at the top of the battery clip. let me know if this helps anyone out.

ruf
2008.04.15, 01:42 AM
Guys, if any of you is having the shutdown problem after 2-3 minutes, I urge you to call Kyosho America, explain what happens, and send in your KT-18. 1 week later, and I now have a perfectly functional KT-18, and I can fully enjoy the advantages of the 2.4GHz board! :D A pain in the butt, but Kyosho America is very supportive of their products.

Tjay
2008.04.25, 01:45 AM
Tested my ASF for 3 hours and my shut down problem is gone :D!

I did two things on the radio, converted the batts to 5 cells of AA (8.30volts) and then pulled the springs on the radio for better contact and the results are great! No more shut down. Although it looks funny but hey it works! I hope to get more run time on my tx battery with this one. Enjoy the pics!

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g10/Teejay_Cynthia/DSC03127.jpg?t=1209102324
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g10/Teejay_Cynthia/DSC03125.jpg?t=1209102071
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g10/Teejay_Cynthia/DSC03122.jpg?t=1209102119
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g10/Teejay_Cynthia/DSC03151.jpg?t=1209102516

EMU
2008.04.25, 03:18 AM
Do you race with the battery pack in your pocket? Sounds interesting... I never really liked the idea of using 4 AAA's. I may just try this. Thanks :D

If you use 5 cells, that is 6v, not 8.4v, which would be 7 cells.

Tjay
2008.04.25, 12:03 PM
Do you race with the battery pack in your pocket? Sounds interesting... I never really liked the idea of using 4 AAA's. I may just try this. Thanks :D

If you use 5 cells, that is 6v, not 8.4v, which would be 7 cells.

yeah, batts on my pocket :D.

5 cells, my calculation was suppose to be 7.5 since each cells has 1.5v but when I put that voltmeter it counted 8.3 'ish... I'm guessing it's because of the batts being fully charged.

EMU
2008.04.25, 01:48 PM
It has allways been my understanding that NiMH are rated at 1.2v per cell. Which is why a 6 cell pack is rated at 7.2v. Alkaline cells are rated at 1.5v.

Fresh off the charger,the cells usually have higher voltage. Cycling my AAA cells, they will start off at 1.4v, but quickly drop to 1.3v, then to about 1.2v to 1.25v, where they will stay for a while gradually decreasing.

If you are getting 8.3v, that is about 1.66v per cell :eek:

Not trying to bash your idea, I just thougt it was really wierd to see such a high voltage off of a 5 cell pack.

I have noticed that AA cells tend to hold a higher voltage than AAA, my 8 cells in my transmitter will read 11.6 off the charger, and take a few race days to drop below 10v... Although off the charger I am getting 1.45v... I use Duracell 2650mah cells, last me a couple weeks without charging.

Tjay
2008.04.25, 02:20 PM
actually I'm using alkalines... and yes, each cells reads 1.6volts.

color01
2008.04.25, 10:01 PM
Ugh, I'd start worrying for your KT-18 when you're putting 7.5-8V through the electronics... if it doesn't fry though that means I can stick some Li-ion/poly batteries into mine. :D

Tjay
2008.04.26, 12:41 AM
since I didn't know the max volt this tx can carry I decided to play around with it by adding extra cell... If I do fry it, ILR have one in stock and I was getting ready to buy it but it's still working with no prob whatsoever... until then I'll be running it with the battery pack on my pocket :).

madf1man
2008.04.26, 10:48 AM
I also have the problems posted but another one also. When I apply full throttle even holding the car in my hands the car shuts down. All I have to do is ease off on the trigger a hair and the car goes back to full power. My quick fix was 3 layers of duct tape on the radio body to limit trigger movment. I still have the glitching though, sometimes. I quess I'll be calling Kyosho also.

Tjay
2008.04.26, 01:41 PM
I also have the problems posted but another one also. When I apply full throttle even holding the car in my hands the car shuts down. All I have to do is ease off on the trigger a hair and the car goes back to full power. My quick fix was 3 layers of duct tape on the radio body to limit trigger movment. I still have the glitching though, sometimes. I quess I'll be calling Kyosho also.


Yeah, I would call kyosho and let them take care of it or... test it by try shaking the car while on throttle and see if it'll do it. If so, you can try pulling out the battery tabs/springs inside the radio to tighten up the connection... just a suggestion though ;).

dameetz
2008.04.30, 11:34 AM
I m thinking of getting a small size 2 cell LiPo batt for my KT18 and connect a voltage regulator in between just to make it to 6V. Recently my KT18 seems to drain more power from my GP800 batt and it causes my car intermittent when going foward. i have to freshly charge the the batts before i play with it. This problem never occur when I first bought it which is about less than a month ago. What do you guys think about my idea of getting a lipo and regulator for this radio? or can i just use direct 7.4V lipo batt with it?

Tim Johnson
2008.04.30, 11:52 AM
Try using a top brand alkaline battery like energizer first.

dameetz
2008.05.01, 01:30 AM
Try using a top brand alkaline battery like energizer first.

I ll try it out, and i think for sure it ll work. The thing is I don't want to spend every now and then to buy alkaline batteries, thats why i opted for rechargeable Lipo.

Hp_
2008.05.30, 05:00 AM
I also have the problems posted but another one also. When I apply full throttle even holding the car in my hands the car shuts down. All I have to do is ease off on the trigger a hair and the car goes back to full power. My quick fix was 3 layers of duct tape on the radio body to limit trigger movment. I still have the glitching though, sometimes. I quess I'll be calling Kyosho also.


Hey guys,

My first post here. Read through many of the threads. I wanna thank everyone for all that I've learned here from all of you. Haven't had to ask a question yet...

I just wanted to add to this thread that 2 of the 3 KT-18s that my buddies and I race have the exact problem as madf1man has described, without the glitching, just the throttle cut. I have never thought that it was a board issue.

Our fix thus far has also basically been a mechanical one, shim like what madf1man did. They work fine, but for the "latest and greatest", this is a big disappointment as these are also our favorite cars to run. We don't race the way that most of you guys race. But it still sucks to run the car at less than 100% of what it should be. I suppose I'll have to be calling Kyosho too.

Thanks to everyone here again. Best wishes to everyone on getting this issue resovled.

Tim Johnson
2008.05.30, 08:54 AM
Rest your TX , rebind your TX, the problem should go away......

Tjay
2008.05.30, 01:10 PM
Hey guys,

My first post here. Read through many of the threads. I wanna thank everyone for all that I've learned here from all of you. Haven't had to ask a question yet...

I just wanted to add to this thread that 2 of the 3 KT-18s that my buddies and I race have the exact problem as madf1man has described, without the glitching, just the throttle cut. I have never thought that it was a board issue.

Our fix thus far has also basically been a mechanical one, shim like what madf1man did. They work fine, but for the "latest and greatest", this is a big disappointment as these are also our favorite cars to run. We don't race the way that most of you guys race. But it still sucks to run the car at less than 100% of what it should be. I suppose I'll have to be calling Kyosho too.

Thanks to everyone here again. Best wishes to everyone on getting this issue resovled.

bind and rebind both tx and car just like Tim said. If it doesn't work., return it. It's probably messed up.

Good luck!

Hp_
2008.05.31, 09:10 AM
Thank you for the quick response Tim and Tj, I really appreciate that.

As for the radios, will try your suggestions tonight.

Tim, it would be good if you could clarify for me what you mean about "resting" my Tx.

Is there a time limit to how long the Tx can be on for?

I've raced for hours and hours before. But never left it on overnight or anything.

Update:

Since my original post I have tried what Tim and others have suggested.
Which I think pretty much amounts to rebooting my car and Tx. No change.

It has in fact actually died. The power button no longer turns the radio on. I am aware of the short contact springs for the battery clip. That isn't the case. I think my particular tx has just had it. Anyways, just wanted to let people know how this has worked out for me so far.

What I finally did? Bought a new Tx. As I said before, unexpected and disappointing.

banquer
2008.05.31, 06:16 PM
Hello guys.
Today I was doing a test with a my Helios EX10 sourced by LiPo battery with 901SM ASF module and a ASF miniZ with the 3010 stock fets.
After 4 pack of batteries running (2 team orion 900 and 2 Intellect 750) with 2 motors (pn racing speedy 07 and stock ad adband), car start to glitch.
I think there was the circuit protector and shut down the car and Helios for about 10 minutes.
After that , every thing works ok ... for 2 minutes, doing the car glitching on throttle, steer still works ok every time, this is because I think is the Circuit protector of the esc (RA-18 unit).
I have the ICS USB adaptator.
Any help?
Best regards from Spain.
http://www.rc-gojar-z.net/

Aurora
2008.06.02, 06:07 AM
Banquer,

Are you using the stock motor or xspeed? I remembered there is a square mud-yellow component which act as a protector soldered to either the stock or xspeed. This thing will kick in from time to time, and shall recover after some rest. Remove it, and everything should be fine.

Tjay
2008.06.02, 03:14 PM
Hello guys.
Today I was doing a test with a my Helios EX10 sourced by LiPo battery with 901SM ASF module and a ASF miniZ with the 3010 stock fets.
After 4 pack of batteries running (2 team orion 900 and 2 Intellect 750) with 2 motors (pn racing speedy 07 and stock ad adband), car start to glitch.
I think there was the circuit protector and shut down the car and Helios for about 10 minutes.
After that , every thing works ok ... for 2 minutes, doing the car glitching on throttle, steer still works ok every time, this is because I think is the Circuit protector of the esc (RA-18 unit).
I have the ICS USB adaptator.
Any help?
Best regards from Spain.
http://www.rc-gojar-z.net/

Per banquer, "car starts to glitch" ...even the steering/front wheels was glitching or just the throttle?

While pulling the trigger/throttle to forward (slowly), is there erratic movement from the steering? If so, please check your brushes and/or your capacitor on the motor.

Also, please bind/pair the tx and the car correctly.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

banquer
2008.06.03, 04:29 PM
To Aurora: Like I write on my post, I'd used a PN Racing Speedy 07 and a Atomic Stock AD Band motor.
To Tjay:
Only on throttle, steering every time works fine.
Now I'm replacing the stock RC-18 unit fets (3010) for the same quantity of fairchild ones.
I'll post result as soon as posible.
Thanks to all and best regards from Spain.
http://www.rc-gojar-z.net

pfcparts
2008.06.03, 05:29 PM
I had the new mazda finally shut down yesterday.

Tried binding it and checking everything: batts, tx, etc...

Turns out the motor wires got loose... I don't
know if the shorter board plays apart in getting it loose,
as this never happened with the adband or am cars I had.

Happens alot with my 2.4s...

Might be something to look out for if the steering still works.

Only reason I found that out was UR tipped over and I
saw the wheel turn lol.



parts

Tjay
2008.06.03, 05:56 PM
Try using titanium screws for your motor wires. I never had to deal with loose motor wires after the switch.

pfcparts
2008.06.03, 11:48 PM
I tried, but the tapping ones usually destroy
the holes in such a small soft plastic piece,
and since the screws were already put in
from the factory, the machine Ti screws
will strip because of that. Machine
screws work best with new holes,
unless the plastic is a little hard.

I don't want to buy a whole new parts set,
just to use to screws, so I'm stuck using
the stock screws for now at least. I
don't mind the tightening every now
and then. I tend to clean them
every now and then anyways.

Regardless, check the motor wires if you still
have steering when it dies guys lol.


parts

color01
2008.06.04, 12:37 AM
Drip a tiny bit of plastic cement/CA/threadlock in the holes, that usually keeps the screws tight without getting them stuck. Take out the electronics before doing so, of course. ;)

kryten
2008.06.11, 04:53 PM
Banquer,

Are you using the stock motor or xspeed? I remembered there is a square mud-yellow component which act as a protector soldered to either the stock or xspeed. This thing will kick in from time to time, and shall recover after some rest. Remove it, and everything should be fine.

I plan on using a stock AM AWD motor in my 2.4 AWD should i remove the component you mentioned before fitting anyway,or only if i have probs with it in a 2.4 car?

JOSEC
2008.06.13, 10:25 AM
My car haves the same problem too,i try with original motor and atomic stock, where is the problem on tx or rx?
I`m from Spain and my car from EGR mart on Hk, i think EGR (or me) don´t must pay nothing to refund the car or the tx (for new one) because this is a factory failure.
I think we need direct refund from Kyosho factory.

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6033/joseccccimg3643ag4.jpg
Very nice..for nothing...:mad:

GREETINGS :(

Tjay
2008.06.13, 12:37 PM
Shut down?

It's probably just the tx. Bind and re-bind. If it doesn't work. Send it to Kyosho or buy the KO with 2.4ASF module.

JOSEC
2008.06.13, 01:11 PM
if the problem is on tx ok. but i don´t know if is the car.:confused:

GREETINGS

dameetz
2008.06.13, 02:14 PM
I m also having trouble with my KT18. When I 1st bought it 2 months ago everything was fine, now the fwd throttle is intermittent (when you pull the trigger all the way) however when you leave a bit of space like 2mm from the trigger stopper to the hand grip the throttle is fine. Usually I will change the Tx batt to a new set of Alkaline batt and the problem will be solve. But right now even changing to a new set alkaline batt won't solve the throttle intermittent problem. Pls help!!!

dameetz
2008.06.15, 10:58 AM
I m also having trouble with my KT18. When I 1st bought it 2 months ago everything was fine, now the fwd throttle is intermittent (when you pull the trigger all the way) however when you leave a bit of space like 2mm from the trigger stopper to the hand grip the throttle is fine. Usually I will change the Tx batt to a new set of Alkaline batt and the problem will be solve. But right now even changing to a new set alkaline batt won't solve the throttle intermittent problem. Pls help!!!

I have found out what the problem is. I opened up my radio and trying to look if there was any bad connection. After several hours trouble shooting I came to a conclusion that it has to be the throttle sensor or trigger position sensor (honestly I dont know what its called but it looks like steering POT only bigger with 3 wires attached). So my LHS was kind enough to give me a replacement from another KT18 which was new but not working (different problem). I took it out and made the swap to my KT18 and guess what...I was right...my KT18 now works perfectly...:D:D I can take the pic of the POT like thing and post it here if anybody wants it.

banquer
2008.06.18, 01:25 AM
The service of Kyosho is very very good.
Past days, I wrote to Hobby Link Japan (where I bought my RA18 esc unit) and today they answer.
They said that Kyosho want to refound, repair or change my unit and HlJ the shipping cost to send to Japan.
This is the best way to do bussiness.
Contragulations to Kyosho and HLJ.
PD: I want to do more trys because yesterday the unit, after repairing with my Helios EX10, don't shutdown.

banquer
2008.06.21, 03:05 PM
Confirmed. Shutodwn of the rc18 unit (only the throttle) are motived by temperature cut off (like 1/8 failsafe units).
This weekend, I'll receive 4562 fets and I'll change the 3010 stock ones by the vishay ones.
I hope, that the 4562 minus resistance and more drain capacity, will go down temperature and be delayed the cut off procedure.

Best regards from Granada (Spain).

AFMiniz
2008.07.20, 12:08 PM
I experienced the shut down as well. I tend to agree the auto shut down due to over heat of 3010 fets. I'm driving AWD with Auto Stock R with very low gear ratio already (6.38:1), i.e. lower current but it seems that rc18 unit cannot stand this. Steering has no problem but just throttle shut down for a few minutes. Anyone has found this be resolved by replacing or adding fets?

eztuner12
2008.07.20, 01:42 PM
Confirmed. Shutodwn of the rc18 unit (only the throttle) are motived by temperature cut off (like 1/8 failsafe units).
This weekend, I'll receive 4562 fets and I'll change the 3010 stock ones by the vishay ones.
I hope, that the 4562 minus resistance and more drain capacity, will go down temperature and be delayed the cut off procedure.

Best regards from Granada (Spain).
Banquero, Did you replace the bottom 2x2 3010 and top 2x2 3010 with bottom 2x2 4562 and top 2x2 4562???
Please let me know your outcome right after testing it!!!!
Gracias y saludos.

banquer
2008.07.21, 01:50 PM
That's right, 2 up and 2 downside.
I'd not tested it definetively about hollydays, but, as soon as I return, I test and post the results.
Best regards.

kryten
2008.09.19, 01:22 PM
I had the same problem with an AWD and an MR02 at our last race meet(during HFAY typically!) it turned out to be the TX batts.I'm using the Helios with 2.4 module,the tx volts dropped to 9.6 and then i had all the probs,but didn't have spare batts to test it with(another lesson learned).
I have just finished a test on my home track and tested both cars(awd 20 mins/mr02 10 mins) with the same set of batts in the car and they were both fine! Hope this helps someone.:)

Traveler
2008.11.26, 08:14 PM
I have found out what the problem is. I opened up my radio and trying to look if there was any bad connection. After several hours trouble shooting I came to a conclusion that it has to be the throttle sensor or trigger position sensor (honestly I dont know what its called but it looks like steering POT only bigger with 3 wires attached). So my LHS was kind enough to give me a replacement from another KT18 which was new but not working (different problem). I took it out and made the swap to my KT18 and guess what...I was right...my KT18 now works perfectly...:D:D I can take the pic of the POT like thing and post it here if anybody wants it.

I have the same problem with one of my KT18s as dameetz. Throttle trigger works fine except when pulled all the way, at which point all throttle is lost. This is a different problem than others descibed in this thread.

Do I contact the retailer (Kenon) or Kyosho. If Kyosho, can anyone provide a number or any other advise?

Thanks!

Tim Johnson
2008.11.27, 01:56 PM
contact Kyosho customer support at 800-716-4518, ask for customer service.

kryten
2008.11.27, 07:26 PM
I have the same problem with one of my KT18s as dameetz. Throttle trigger works fine except when pulled all the way, at which point all throttle is lost. This is a different problem than others descibed in this thread.

Do I contact the retailer (Kenon) or Kyosho. If Kyosho, can anyone provide a number or any other advise?

Thanks!

Have you tried doing a factory reset on the TX then re-pair with the car?
I had the same problem with mine when i had a KT-18 and so did another guy at our club.The factory reset and re-pair solved the problem for both of us,might be worth a try before shipping your TX back to Kyosho.

Traveler
2008.11.28, 09:57 AM
Tim, Thanks for quick response. Hope they are open today.

Kryten, Appreciate the suggestion. But I tried this several times. The defective controller also acts the same with other ASF chassis I have. I'm pretty sure the controller is defective.

Thanks all!

xler82.0
2008.12.02, 04:06 PM
Is there a solution that one can perform or is the only option getting a new controller? I tried all the mentioned possible solutions, to no avail. Same problem on all my cars.

Traveler
2008.12.03, 06:06 AM
Have you tried doing a factory reset on the TX then re-pair with the car?
I had the same problem with mine when i had a KT-18 and so did another guy at our club.The factory reset and re-pair solved the problem for both of us,might be worth a try before shipping your TX back to Kyosho.

Kryten, Your solution worked and I am so pleased! THANK YOU.

I assumed all along that by holding the UP throttle trim (position A in manual) while powering on the KT-18 would reset to factory. But after your response and not being able to get through to Kyosho Customer Service, I got out the manual and learned that the factory reset is holding the DOWN throttle trim (position B in manual) while powering on the TX.

Did a true reset and problem resolved! Thanks again!

xler82 - Be sure to try the reset and let us know if it helps with your unit.

xler82.0
2008.12.04, 08:59 AM
xler82 - Be sure to try the reset and let us know if it helps with your unit.

Yes, tried the reset of the unit several times, but no luck. Held down the "B" button on the throttle trim and powered up, heard a beep and then powered off. Did a bind of the car and still no luck.

Funny thing is, after the reset, the car worked without a bind:confused:

Is that correct? After the reset of the controller, should the car respond?

I tried it over and over and always the same result. Car still dies.:(

Traveler
2008.12.04, 04:58 PM
Sorry to hear that :(

As I recall, I didn't have to rebind TX to Chassis. All I did was correctly reset TX and all was well. You may want to try some of the other fixed mentioned in the thread. New batteries in TX, pull out TX battery contact tabs, etc

Otherwise contact Kyosho as suggested by Tim. I'm glad I didn't have to, but I understand they have good support.

Good luck, I know its frustrating.

Traveler
2008.12.04, 05:00 PM
Sorry to hear that :( I know its frustrating.

As I recall, I didn't have to rebind after reset. Just had to figure out how to correctly reset.

Guess its time to call Kyosho as Tim suggested earlier. Good luck!

xler82.0
2008.12.05, 06:04 AM
Yes, tried all the mentioned possible fixes, but not luck. Went to the LHS and they gave me a different one to try , so hopefully that will solve the problem. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

eztuner12
2008.12.07, 11:38 PM
I don’t have a 2.4Ghz, but read some were in the forum that this shutting-down issue is due to a bad battery contact; same issue that on the FM PCB
If I don’t recall wrong, it was a Cristian T. comment. Check out your car battery terminals.
This must be really frustrating!!! wow:eek:
Cheers

xler82.0
2008.12.08, 02:57 PM
New controller worked like a charm!! :D :D

Ran all day without a glitch :cool:

briankstan
2008.12.08, 03:02 PM
New controller worked like a charm!! :D :D

Ran all day without a glitch :cool:

good to hear.

I haven't had any issues with mine, but I've only been using my helios with the 2.4 module. I sounds likes it's a TX only issue

eztuner12
2008.12.08, 03:42 PM
Hello to all;)
This is my question about the 2.4Ghz.
Have any one had any type of issues regarding; shutting-down, glitching steering not centering, car not going straight, electricity outlet interferences scenarios by using an Ko propo Tx??
Any time I am practically on my way to buy a 2.4Ghz board I go back due to some one mentioning on the forum one of theses issues with his 2.4Gzs. I am interested in having fun and going fast thru the track with my Mini-z AWD not to complicate my life with electronics problems. I would like to reduce the height CG of my car eliminating the frequency crystal, to be able to fit more bodies, plus avoid possible frequency interferences when racing along others.
Thanks for the info.:)
Cheers

briankstan
2008.12.08, 05:48 PM
I haven't had any of those issues with my 2.4 cars, they always center great, and don't have the chatter in the steering.

I do have them with my AM cars, they like to pull towards outlets on my basement track, and they get some glitching when passing over the core loop.

I'll be converting my F1 and Overland to 2.4 very soon. :D

eztuner12
2008.12.08, 06:16 PM
Hello briankstan,;)
Thxx for the info. That’s something I have noticed thru my readings @ the forum, some guys have not experimented any issues with their 2.4Ghz but others even had to return theirs for exchange, do to the fact that never arise to an solution with their problematic board.
Do you use other Tx than the Kyosho 82001 Perfex KT-18 2.4 GHz Transmitter?
Or really the Tx does not have any influence affect on the issues so many have been experimenting?
Again thxxxxx…
Cheers

briankstan
2008.12.08, 07:35 PM
Hello briankstan,;)
Thxx for the info. That’s something I have noticed thru my readings @ the forum, some guys have not experimented any issues with their 2.4Ghz but others even had to return theirs for exchange, do to the fact that never arise to an solution with their problematic board.
Do you use other Tx than the Kyosho 82001 Perfex KT-18 2.4 GHz Transmitter?
Or really the Tx does not have any influence affect on the issues so many have been experimenting?
Again thxxxxx…
Cheers

In my opinion and from what I have read the problem is with the TX, not the board itself. It seems that the radio looses the bind. I have 2 cars that I use exclusively with my EX-10 helios and have never had this problem, nor has other members of our club that use the 2.4 boards with their helios.

lfisminiz
2008.12.08, 07:38 PM
Same here Richard....Helios ex-10 with 2.4 module and no problem.;)

eztuner12
2008.12.08, 08:07 PM
That’s excellent news guys, since I have an EX-10 too, gooood….:):):):D
What about Stacking FET’s I wanted to go 1x2 4562 bottom 2x2 4562 top? ? Any issues with stacking on 2.4Ghz’s and steering problems?:confused:
Thxxxx…
Cheers;)

jb1
2009.04.30, 09:10 PM
(First post here-- I hope you don't mind if I resurrect this old thread!)

One of my 2 MR02-LMs would sporadically glitch, stutter, and become unresponsive-- the symptoms seemed just like the OP's. In my case, I knew it probably wasn't the transmitter because the other car worked perfectly. The problem appears to have been on the car's circuitboard itself-- there were two adjacent wires (red & white) soldered to the circuitboard with oversized blobs of solder that were so close that it was hard to tell if they were supposed to be separate. I cleaned it up and resoldered the connections and everything now works okay. I suspect that running into things was causing brief short circuits between the blobs, and the circuitry didn't like it!

(BTW, these things are a BLAST!)

-Jim

eztuner12
2009.04.30, 09:59 PM
(First post here-- I hope you don't mind if I resurrect this old thread!)

One of my 2 MR02-LMs would sporadically glitch, stutter, and become unresponsive-- the symptoms seemed just like the OP's. In my case, I knew it probably wasn't the transmitter because the other car worked perfectly. The problem appears to have been on the car's circuitboard itself-- there were two adjacent wires (red & white) soldered to the circuitboard with oversized blobs of solder that were so close that it was hard to tell if they were supposed to be separate. I cleaned it up and resoldered the connections and everything now works okay. I suspect that running into things was causing brief short circuits between the blobs, and the circuitry didn't like it!

(BTW, these things are a BLAST!)

-Jim

Hi Jim (jb1)
Welcome to the great forum!:)

Good you notice the issue and find a solution; yep it can happen any time during mass production and low quality control.

Thanks for sharing it with us, perhaps someone can read your post and find the right elucidation to his/her problem too.

Oh Yeah they are great and fassst too:D Enjoy it!!!!;)

Thx:)
Cheers

Traveler
2009.05.01, 10:00 AM
(First post here-- I hope you don't mind if I resurrect this old thread!)

One of my 2 MR02-LMs would sporadically glitch, stutter, and become unresponsive-- the symptoms seemed just like the OP's. In my case, I knew it probably wasn't the transmitter because the other car worked perfectly. The problem appears to have been on the car's circuitboard itself-- there were two adjacent wires (red & white) soldered to the circuitboard with oversized blobs of solder that were so close that it was hard to tell if they were supposed to be separate. I cleaned it up and resoldered the connections and everything now works okay. I suspect that running into things was causing brief short circuits between the blobs, and the circuitry didn't like it!

(BTW, these things are a BLAST!)

-Jim

Jim,

Welcome to the forums! Can you post a picture of the blobs you are referring to? That might be helpful.

Thanks!

jb1
2009.05.03, 11:02 AM
Jim,

Welcome to the forums! Can you post a picture of the blobs you are referring to? That might be helpful.

Thanks!

Unfortunately not... because I resoldered the connections, so they look normal!. However, I spoke too soon because the next day, it started showing problems again... Arrrgh! So I attempted to rebind, without success. Then I tried to use car #1 which hadn't shown any problems at all, but it wouldn't work. So I tried to rebind that, again without success. Arrrgh. Apparently, one of the problems is the transmitter, so I filled out kyoshoamerica.com's CS form and in the meantime, ordered a second transmitter. I'd been really looking forward to the weekend since I'd just received bunch of goodies to install. Having this happen on a Friday night was like Fate tormenting me & my latest obsession! Never thought I'd look forward to Monday.

I have faith that it will all work out, and so I continue to pour $$$ into the bottomless money pit: When disassembling the LM's rear end, I discovered that the upper motor case had several cracks, and the pivot pin for the damper piston disintegrated when I removed it. Arrgh! Must replace plastic and buy expensive damper system! I also learned that PN's V4 LCG motor mount required a motor with mounting holes. More $$$. For these newer MR02-LMs, it's challenging to figure out what works with what, where to buy it, or if it's even available yet (like aftermarket LM steering knuckles ). Thanks to forums like this though, the body of knowledge is growing.

-Jim

Traveler
2009.05.04, 03:15 PM
Sorry to hear about your continuing issues. So far my LM car is running great and I love it.

The only company I am aware of that makes LM alloy knuckles is 3racing. I have a set and they are great. Some people use regular MR-02 aftermarket knuckles. As for motor pods, the PN 98-102 LCG mount is awesome, but I don't believe its as wide as the stock plastic Kyosho LM mount. So if you want to keep the LM Diff (which is longer) and stock rims, you will need to use spacers on the diff shaft to get the rims to sit at the same distance as stock. A much cheaper alternative is buying a replacement Kyosho LM motor pod and parts. $10 I think.

Hope this helps.

eztuner12
2009.05.04, 03:33 PM
Hi jb1
Is the glitching on the steering system in the first car and now on the second car too but no broblems with the throtle & motor responce???

jb1
2009.05.04, 07:40 PM
It's Monday and weekend orders are being shipped, so I'm happy. I'm waiting to hear from Kyosho about the defective transmitter, but I'm not in a huge hurry since the new one should be here soon (my wife's transmitter ;) ). I'm trying not to think about the odds of getting a 2nd defective one... :eek:

Thanks for the info, Traveler! I'll check out the 3Racing knuckles. I don't trust that a part will work unless it's specifically ID'd as "LM", which makes the search more difficult: a couple pieces from one vendor, and a couple more from another.

Since the stock plastic parts broke (probably over-torqued at the factory), I wanted to migrate to sturdier alternatives. As backup, I bought some replacement Kyosho LM pods, and found a 3Racing Rolling Damper assembly to fit with the PN LCG Motor Pod. Hopefully, it has all the parts needed, and will fit perfectly. If it does, I'll buy a second set, parts-in-stockedness willing. The problem for newbies is that you never know until you start putting it all together-- I'd never have suspected that the LCG mount needed spacers!

-Jim

Traveler
2009.05.04, 10:30 PM
Yeah, the LM uses a wider motor pod (approx. 35.5 mm) and therefore requires a longer diff shaft. The PN mount you are interested in is my favorite, but it is standard width + a hair, or approx. 32.59 mm. The stock RM and MM pods are approx. 32 mm. So if you go with the PN mount and a standard length diff, your wheels will each be about 1.5 mm closer to the chassis than stock. Don't think it will make much of a difference in handling or appearance, but you seem like a precise guy, so I thought you should know.

jb1
2009.05.06, 07:04 AM
I received transmitter #2, and both cars now bind properly. Unfortunately, one of my cars still has the problem with glitching, so I suspect that its receiver has some problems.

One of the differences between the two is that the problem car revs up as soon as it initializes; the other one doesn't. The problem car seems to run for quite a while as long as it doesn't come to a complete stop; once it does, it exhibits a mild form of the stuttering at low speeds, and quickly gets worse until it's completely dead. Immediately switching it off and on doesn't fix the problem; however if I wait for five minutes or longer, it goes through the same cycle. That leads me to suspect that the problem is heat-related. I've swapped the motor pods to rule that out as a contributing factor.

So that chassis is going back to Kyosho (although it's sort of a hassle to undo all the upgraded parts). Fortunately, kyoshoamerica is A+ on customer service, based on my phone call about the defective transmitter.

I'm fortunate to have two transmitters & cars to compare & confirm; without that, it would have been difficult to determine what was defective, and I don't think that I would have assumed that there were problems with both the car and receiver. I hadn't planned on getting a second transmitter, but at least I could rationalize it as having one for my wife, so we can race (yeah, that'll happen!).

-Jim