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View Full Version : New MR02 94mm LCG Motor Mount


crazyracer
2008.07.17, 11:57 PM
Short 94mm wheelbase motor mount for quick handling. Can be configured for 98mm or 102mm wheelbase.
Ultra compact motor mount design. Motor positioned 3 mm lower than typical 94mm motor mount. Motor CG location is now comparable to the longer 98mm motor mount.
Open design provide clearance for motor replacement. Wheel removal not required for motor change.
Use of larger gears will not increase motor CG height since motor plate slides horizontally during gear adjustment.
Low profile damper post arm. Gives more room for up or down damper post adjustment to optimize handling.
4 position axel height adjustment.
Minimum weight design.

http://www.pnracing.us/new/news_image/20080717-195641-1.jpg?r=5http://www.pnracing.us/new/news_image/20080717-195641-2.jpg?r=36http://www.pnracing.us/new/news_image/20080717-195641-3.jpg?r=82http://www.pnracing.us/new/news_image/20080717-195641-4.jpg?r=87
http://pnracing.us/MR2294-M4.jpg

DJ Kyosho
2008.07.18, 12:46 AM
YES!!! Looks like I'll have to go to the track tomorrow :cool:

Tjay
2008.07.18, 01:29 AM
I have been testing this ATM version 5 for two weeks and I really like it. I'm actually thinking of buying another one till I saw this! The designed is AWESOME Phillip! I will be getting this instead... soon! I'll tell Binh to get some in stock.

Cheers!

TALLGEESE
2008.07.18, 12:51 PM
Finally!! a PN motor-mount with adjustable ride-height/axle height adjustment.. The design looks fantastic, I'll definately be picking up a couple of these.. Top-notch work as usual from PN...

HaCo
2008.07.18, 01:24 PM
Yep, looks a cool mount, will be on my next shopping list. :-)

PS: PN, provide us with some higher res pics plz!!! :rolleyes:

HaCo
2008.07.18, 01:29 PM
I just noticed is laying in the complete opposite direction than with a regular 94MM mount.

crazyracer
2008.07.18, 02:38 PM
http://www.pnracing.us/new/product_image/370_4.jpg
rckenon.com (http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/shop2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3732)

Full Instructions (http://www.pnracing.us/MR2294-Instructions.pdf)

benmlee
2008.07.18, 02:56 PM
I just noticed is laying in the complete opposite direction than with a regular 94MM mount.

Motor is leaning on the opposite side so it can be positioned lower in the chassis. Motor is heavy, so the lower it is, the lower the CG of the car is. Normal 94mm mount has the motor positioned relatively high up in the chassis. This one is a LCG mount. The motor is so low it is touching the bottom of the chassis.

DJ Kyosho
2008.07.19, 04:32 AM
I was able to try this motor mount tonight. Without changing anything, I was able to drive the car harder. It's really stable through turns and it almost eliminated my traction rolling problem.

Another thing I like about this mount is the damper post sits lower than the old motor mount which means you won't have to use an atomic 2.8mm DPS mount or equivalent. You might even get away without using a DPS mount. The damper post is also centered now on the ML damper plate, giving you more side to side travel.

Good job PN Racing!

reechaard
2008.07.20, 02:50 AM
I was watching Phillip and DJ try out the new engine mount. The car was amazingly stable. It looked like they were driving a 98mm car. It was rolling very nicely in and out of corners.

We drive enzo's for the stability of the vehicle, but it takes out a little bit on the inside. With this new engine mount we can achieve the stability of a 98mm wheelbase car, and the inside speed on the corners of a 94mm.

I would highly recommend this new mount.

Great job Team PN Racing :)

color01
2008.07.20, 08:28 PM
The design looks awesome. The "arm" that mounts the damper post looks a little thin, but being aluminum it shouldn't be an issue. The way the motor is mounted makes soldering easier too. Props to PN, saving me the trouble of making my own 94MM mount for my 02. :)

herman
2008.07.21, 12:02 AM
oh no... not another motor mount... :D
but i guess i must have to say that design wise, they seem to get better and better...

imxlr8ed
2008.07.21, 01:00 AM
Wow... once again, very cool! I like the motor adjustment screws going in different directions, makes alot of sense. Countersunk screws for the motor itself... excellent! The dampener mount looks a little thin but I might be missing something in the pictures there.

All in all, highly engineered & well thought out. Have to save my pennies again!

DJ Kyosho
2008.07.21, 04:58 AM
The arm that holds that damper post is not thin at all. It's actually pretty beefy.

imxlr8ed
2008.07.21, 10:06 AM
I saw it later in the drawings... it's angle cut for motor clearance.

GIHOSU
2008.07.21, 09:12 PM
I ordered 2 at my LOCAL hobby shop today, I was there when the Kenon order was being placed. I'll just have to wait until the weekend to get my hands on them. My plan is to swap one into my MR-015 and make my new 2.4 chassis a 94mm and run a new body. I'm excited to run a more stable 94mm setup. Now I know why I couldn't get the Multi Length Mount...

lfisminiz
2008.07.21, 10:29 PM
Just recieved my 2 today. They look GREAT! Another well done product.

pfcparts
2008.07.21, 10:35 PM
Within 5 minutes of running this mount, my rear started sagging.

Turns out the post got pushed back during suspension travel. I
tighted it a slight bit more and it ended up stripping the screwhole lol...

Looks like I need a fat tapping screw now, but if you do run this mount,
it'd be wise to ca the post when you have it at the desired height. :p

It'd have been nice to have a bit of kibble to hold the post vertically though...


parts

babstar
2008.07.24, 02:20 PM
Within 5 minutes of running this mount, my rear started sagging.

Turns out the post got pushed back during suspension travel. I
tighted it a slight bit more and it ended up stripping the screwhole lol...

Looks like I need a fat tapping screw now, but if you do run this mount,
it'd be wise to ca the post when you have it at the desired height. :p

It'd have been nice to have a bit of kibble to hold the post vertically though...


parts


Got mine today and just tried it out; same as you, I have the post traveling off its vertical position, if you ask me a design fault. That screw can't possibly hold the post in vertical position. They indeed needed to make a small bump that fits a vertical cavity, helping the screw to keep the damper post in place.

btw what DPS did you use, I found that the kyosho one didn't fit. I used the PN instead but that wasn't much of a success either.

here is a pic:

http://www.ritm.nl/miniz/pn-mount.jpg

pfcparts
2008.07.24, 06:31 PM
I wasn't even using a shock...

I tried the pn mount... looks like it'd fit the atm 94 mount as well, but I
dont think I'll bother with it. Haven't tried the ca as I dont have any loctite
right now for the set screw lol.

It sits real close to the chassis, so something like we mentioned
would be a really tight fit. I expected more from PN though...

Even with ca glue, I wonder if a slight bump from behind could jar it loose
to end your race.

Both of their 94 mounts are garbage... :(

Also, the post set screw seems like it can be lodged into the post which
would cause more headaches. :o

As is, I can't recommend this mount. I also got sent the wrong color for
the second one I picked up... so I actually have two of these mounts that
I'm not using... Between this and BRAND NEW SETs of PN's wheels cracking
critically when you place bearings into them, PN is falling fast out of my favor. :(


parts

DJ Kyosho
2008.07.24, 08:52 PM
I was actually afraid of the post moving on my mount as well but so far, I really don't have any issues. I would like to see them improve the design of this arm though like you guys mentioned above.

babstar, try moving the damper post arm down a little. What I do is, I loosen the damper post arm screw and let it set on its own, then just tighten the screw. I use a PN DPS on mine.

supafastsupra2
2008.07.24, 10:37 PM
I just cannot believe how poorly the DPS mount is designed on this motor mount. I spent a good 2 hours just trying to get the damned post to stay relatively still, after stripping the obviously too short screw. I ended up using a longer machine screw and attached a nut from the pn multi length DPS to the other side. It interferes with the motor just a slight bit but mesh is maintained perfectly with no abnormal binding or noise. Tomorrow I'm going to apply some red loctite to the nut and ca the post to the mount. If all else fails, I'm just going to drill and tap another hole lower on the post and motor mount to keep it still. I'll report back with what I finally end up doing. I do have to say, in spite of the issues, when the mount Was working properly it did perform well, and let the car cut through the corners while maintaining a considerable amount of speed. the adjustment of the mesh is interesting, and lets you remove the motor without disturbing mesh. this leaves less fiddling with the motor screws to adjust mesh, and reduces chances of stripping the motor can Once PN rectifies this issue, it will be a good product in my book.
Danny

supafastsupra2
2008.07.24, 10:39 PM
I just cannot believe how poorly the DPS mount is designed on this motor mount. I spent a good 2 hours just trying to get the damned post to stay relatively still, after stripping the obviously too short screw. I ended up using a longer machine screw and attached a nut from the pn multi length DPS to the other side. It interferes with the motor just a slight bit but mesh is maintained perfectly with no abnormal binding or noise.
Tomorrow I'm going to apply some red loctite to the nut and ca the post to the mount. If all else fails, I'm just going to drill and tap another hole lower on the post and motor mount to keep it still. I'll report back with what I finally end up doing.
I do have to say, when the mount Was working properly, it did perform well, and let the car cut through the corners while maintaining a considerable amount of speed. the adjustment of the mesh is interesting, and lets you remove the motor without disturbing mesh. this leaves less fiddling with the motor screws to adjust mesh, and reduces chances of stripping the motor can Once PN rectifies this issue, it will be a good product in my book.
Danny

benmlee
2008.07.25, 12:24 AM
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25209&stc=1&d=1216959278

A drop of superglue on the damper post arm did the trick. For a even stronger joint, loosen the screw slightly, put superglue on to let it go deeper into the arm interface, then tighten the screw.
If the hit is hard enough to jostle loose superglue, you probably have much bigger problem than a loose damper arm.

Regardless, the performance gain on this mount more than make up for having to glue down the arm. Now that I tried this LCG mount, I would not want go back to old ones.

pfcparts
2008.07.25, 12:28 AM
If you invert the screw (head on the inside) you should
have enough clearance. A washer on the other side with
the black dds nut should suffice.

I havent had the time to, but I will try to fab a u-bar to put
between the screw head and nut on the other end that goes
around the post to keep it in position. I'd like to be able to
move the post around if needed. :p

Then again it may have another problem in moving up and
down... so ca may be the only answer... lol.


parts

supafastsupra2
2008.07.25, 12:58 AM
Good idea on inverting the screw, I'll try that as well

reechaard
2008.07.25, 02:00 AM
Both of their 94 mounts are garbage... :(




parts


Garbage is such a strong word.. Design flaws would be more appropriate :D

Felix2010
2008.07.25, 11:13 PM
I love this motor mount - The design is impressive, the CG is lowered significantly, and as benmlee said the performance gain is very good. To keep the damper post arm in place was as easy as a touch of glue on the screw threads. Alloy and even steel threads can be stripped easily sometimes so I always make a point to be careful when tightening screws into any threaded alloy parts. I've stripped many-a-motor can's threads, even being careful... This mount has only been out a few days, so as with any brand-new design sometimes it takes some getting used to.
I give PN two thumbs up on this mount (and on their V3 98-102mm LCG mount too):D

color01
2008.07.26, 01:56 AM
Been studying the design of this mount a bit; if you dremel a 2mm-wide slot in the bottom of the arm, you can drill and tap another hole into the motor mount so that the arm is held by two screws instead of one.

PN could have alleviated this issue by simply machining the 2mm slot into the bottom of the arm and adding a little nub in the motor mount to go through that slot. Perhaps we will get a second-batch update? It would be well worth the wait.

color01
2008.07.26, 02:00 AM
Gah, double post... didn't realize I couldn't edit my post in this thread. :o In any case, I missed babstar's post, and agree totally with his idea. :o

babstar
2008.07.26, 08:34 AM
Thx color01 :)

I don't believe this the way to put a product on the market. Why should we have to go true lengths to get this thing just to work as marketed? There is a serious enough design fault here. Didn't PN test this thing before starting large scale production? this problem annihilates the plus sides that the mount does offer.

Superglue: hardly a good enough solution if you are at a track and need to be adjusting the arm position a couple of times to get maximum performance. BTW this is one of the main reasons to select this mount, because of its ease of use and tune ability. and what if you drive strait into a hard object or boundary? it will go loose again. Its not a good idea to walk around with a tube of super glue in my pocket at the track, for just in case. Got enough other things to pay attention to.

Cutting and drilling holes: If you need to do stuff like this just to get the thing to work as advertised, you've been suckered! Of course I/you can make it work, but we paid already for that bit, didn't we?

PN would be wise to recall these and to change the design so that it works properly out of the bag. Then send us the redesigned ones. Its not to late!

I don't mind the money, just the misuse of trust is what I'm upset about. For now its in the box together with stuff from topcad that reads: junk!

Sorry for PN, that does a lot of good things for the community, sorry for me that I don't trust them anymore and sorry for all of us that a great opportunity is looking really week.

Back to 94RM it is for me.

Felix2010
2008.07.26, 11:16 AM
Hi Babstar - I understand your frustration, believe me, I've been there when I first got into Mini-Zs a few years ago. However, I am sorry but I have to disagree with you about some of your comments. There are many hop-ups that have been put out on the market with "flaws" that require a bit of tweaking to get them to work well. A few examples:
Way back when Atomic put out their 94/98mm "MM" pod the motor always bumped into the damper plate because there wasn't enough clearance. Then Atomic came out with the 2.8mm DPS adapter to raise the DPS plate high enough for motor can clearance during suspension travel. This is a simple example, but if you look at all the threads on this forum, a vast number of threads are all about improving the out-of-package performance of hop-ups.
About the new PN 94mm LCG mount, I haven't had any serious issues with the damper post moving around like you said, even after running many laps on carpet and on RCP. I run on a good size RCP track, and I run my cars hard. I test a lot of custom motors, many of them Top Secret Motors and many of them too fast for racing - So I am no stranger to hitting(Burying,lol) the wall.:) My damper post maybe shifted slightly a time or two after some serious pushing, but that's all. I didn't think it absolutely necessary to apply any glue to secure my damper post from being moved from its position, but I thought it would add a bit of security and keep the post exactly where I want it to be when racing. I don't always use CA glue - White glue applied to a screw and then tightened and then allowed to set works great to keep screws secure also. Loctite works good too, I just don't have any right now.
Just another quick example is with ball differentials. Not many racers use a diff straight out of the package - They take it apart and sand the plates, remove the grease and re-lube, change balls, etc., all of which takes some work in order to get the diffs to run well enough for top-notch race performance. Even the first-generation Atomic MA010 ball diffs (The ones before the T.A.R.) had their little faults, like the diff plate/ball tension adjustment nut loosening/tightening during racing. But nobody went so far as to call them junk. We just had to take the diffs apart, add some loctite or glue to the nut to keep our slippage/tension setting from coming loose or tightening on its own. And most racers religiously sand their diff plates down. So a lot of work has to go into making hop-ups work effectively, especially on a continuous basis. Just look at part-one of the article Cristian has posted so far on building a world-class MA010. Many things need some slight-to-moderate tweakage for maximum performance. He even mentioned the T.A.R. diffs "leave FAR too much to be desired" out the package.
I am not bad mouthing Atomic, these were just a couple example that came to mind. I use many brands of hop-ups and I like a lot of Atomic stuff. I like the SAS, and that has its faults. But overall the SAS is an innovative part and can be very effective when tuned properly. I like PN's MA010 alloy bulkheads, but they can cause the diff bearings to bind so slight shimming/modding with the PN bulkheads is needed to be done on my car to get these to work without any problems. I remember Pfcparts commented on how his PN MR02 alloy knuckles never worked well for him. I too had a problem with my PN knuckles being too tight for my kingpins, and after talking to Philip he told me he purposely designed them to be tight rather than loose, and that it is a good idea to ream-out the inner delrin sleeves of the knuckles to make them smooth. After some quick dremeling, I now have silky-smooth PN alloy knuckles with absolutely no slop whatsoever.
I understand it can be frustrating to buy a new part and look forward to trying it and then have it not work perfect as expected. But I've found this to be a common occurrence in building-up custom, hopped-up Mini-Zs. Some simple tweaks usually solve the problem, and the end result can be well worth the trouble in a lot of cases.:)

supafastsupra2
2008.07.26, 12:26 PM
Been studying the design of this mount a bit; if you dremel a 2mm-wide slot in the bottom of the arm, you can drill and tap another hole into the motor mount so that the arm is held by two screws instead of one.

PN could have alleviated this issue by simply machining the 2mm slot into the bottom of the arm and adding a little nub in the motor mount to go through that slot. Perhaps we will get a second-batch update? It would be well worth the wait.

This is what I was going to do, but I was able to get it working without going this far. Red loctite and some CA, and now it stays put. Although it is an easy fix, it should have been taken care of in R&D :rolleyes: Otherwise, it gets the SFS2 stamp of approval :p

pfcparts
2008.07.26, 06:05 PM
The mount will remain in the junk pile until I can get to lowe's
and get some super glue. It is pretty well designed except for
the post problem, which still remains and will remain even if other
people don't "experience" it. Coming from the lcg mount which I
really liked, (despite the ridiculously low post) I had high expectations
for this one. I actually mounted the second one today and the post
got pushed by the shock this time during install, so for those of you
not experiencing it... :mad: poo.

Every manufacturer makes crap or flawed stuff every now and then lol:
I've gone through my share of them... some of which really pissed me off. :p

-----
You expect to work on diffs to get them to your liking...

I didn't expect to have to drive 10-15 mins to lowe's to get some glue just
for this to mount to work, nor should I have. If anything, it should
have been included.

Yes, you will have to work on stuff regardsless, but if it doesn't cause
my wallet any extra damage, I have the tools already, and could have
been avoided (which this should have been), it saves more time for other
things... mainly fun lol. :p

-----

As for the knuckles, if you don't have a dremmel, really fine files,
or don't plan to get any, they will remain something to avoid.
As is, to me they are still expensive crap.

Simplicity works...

I don't see the point in buying an expensive set of knuckles you'd have to
work on just to get working normally, when a cheaper set would
work fine out of the box (without the need to go out and get an expensive
dremmel and special bit just for a pair of $20 knuckles lol :rolleyes:). A
dremmeled PN set doesn't work any better than any offerings out there
from my experience...

I mean, if you do have the time, effort, tools, money to do that, its great. :p

If not, again, I'd stay with the simple/working stuff and avoid it altogether lol.

-----

The two screws seem like a good idea...


parts

Felix2010
2008.07.27, 10:09 AM
pfcparts - I hear ya, sometimes it is nice to just be able to bolt-on and thrash-away. I guess I have just gotten used to having to work on stuff to get it to work to my liking. Do you own the new Ver.5 Atomic 94mm mount? If you do, how is the motor CG & how low does the motor sit compared with the new PN 94mm LCG mount? Does the motor sit any lower on the Ver.5 ATM motor mount than on the Ver.3 Atomic motor mount? I have been interested in trying the Atomic mount for a while, if you have any feedback it would be appreciated. Thanks:)

pfcparts
2008.07.27, 02:53 PM
Different strokes. Any way is fine as long as you get there.
I think its nice to cut off corners when I can if I can get the
same results lol. :)

Atomic mounts are nice. I'm running them on my nsx and f430.
They suffer from what nearly all atomic mounts do: larger pinions
means having to move the post up when you shift the motor forward and
you have to remove the wheel to adjust the gear diff mesh if
running a small pinion. Also, depending on your post height and motor
placement motor wires can really become an issue with the post arm,
since the mount sits really close to the chassis. People run their posts
higher to avoid this, I suppose. I was fine with that when they were
the only 94mm game...

The PN mount should stomp all over the atomic one. I bought them
expecting to replace the atomic ones lol... Again, well designed; I had
no motor wire problems or any issues other than the damn post. If yours works
fine, I'd stay with it. Mount is flush with the chassis (atomic is about 1mm
up), and the motor is flush with the mount (atomic is 1 mm up from the
mount, so 2mm up from the chassis).

I'm sure when I get the time to finally get some super glue and get to see if
the post holds up well under duress, I'd move over to the PN mount. If
working properly, PN's should be the one to choose... It's just disappointing to
get rid of all the other niggling issues and to have one fatal one... :o


parts

supafastsupra2
2008.07.29, 02:42 AM
CA on the post and threadlock on the screw/nut did the trick, along with inverting the dds nut to the outside. Runs fantastic now ;)

benmlee
2008.07.29, 02:41 PM
Always use the long countersunk screw and not the short ones for the damper arm. The short ones are not long enough, and will strip the threaded hole. You might have to order some more long screws for the motor though.

benmlee
2008.07.30, 01:58 AM
I was not happy with using superglue on the damper arm. Works well, but it was not adjustable. If you had to adjust it, you have to clean out the old glue. Otherwise, the arm will not lay flat on the mount. After trying some other things with no sucess, here is the final solution. The result is excellent. Mount is working like it should.

Modification is done with just a hand drill and a 1.6mm drill bit. Took less than an hour to do. Now the arm is fully adjustable and very strong. The arm now is stronger and more accurate than any other 94mm mount out there. It can't possibly move now.

Here is the tutorial:
http://mini-z.home.att.net/94mmLCG.htm



http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25218&stc=1&d=1217397260

DJ Kyosho
2008.07.30, 05:31 AM
Good job Ben!

babstar
2008.07.30, 06:04 AM
Yes, very nicly done Ben. I hope I can get is as clean as you.

thx for the toutorial.

pfcparts
2008.07.30, 07:39 PM
I was not happy with using superglue on the damper arm. Works well, but it was not adjustable. If you had to adjust it, you have to clean out the old glue. Otherwise, the arm will not lay flat on the mount.

Great fix b!

That was one of my irks from using glue the other day. I set the post wrong and had to clean it out and start over... :mad:

Shoulda picked up some drill bits when I was at lowes... :(


parts

supafastsupra2
2008.07.31, 02:17 AM
Here is what I did to fix the damper arm. Put a screw from inside and a lock nut on outside, then tighten the locknut hard.

This is what worked for me, along with some threadlock.

Ben's mod is how the mount should have come to begin with, with some form of guide to keep it straight and a screw that actually fills all the threads on the post mount. :rolleyes:

lfisminiz
2008.08.01, 01:58 AM
I also used a screw with a Kyosho wheel nut on the outside to hold bar better. So far i really like the feel of this new mount. I put together a 2.4 mod pan chassis with this mount ( first trying this mount), and it felt really good right off the bat. Along with the reflex WTF bars. :)

herman
2008.08.01, 03:50 AM
hmm interesting...
hey alice lj... are there any mini-z's in shenzhen?
and welcome to the forums

ruf
2008.08.06, 03:08 AM
I was not happy with using superglue on the damper arm. Works well, but it was not adjustable. If you had to adjust it, you have to clean out the old glue. Otherwise, the arm will not lay flat on the mount. After trying some other things with no sucess, here is the final solution. The result is excellent. Mount is working like it should.

Modification is done with just a hand drill and a 1.6mm drill bit. Took less than an hour to do. Now the arm is fully adjustable and very strong. The arm now is stronger and more accurate than any other 94mm mount out there. It can't possibly move now.That's where the screw and corresponding slot should have been in the first place. You only need one if it's down low. The high position of the screw is actually on the horizontal axis of the lip which lets it rock over it. Great fix though. I just serrated the surfaces on mine.

Mr.Saturn
2008.09.02, 07:36 PM
Anyone have a saved copy of the guide to fix this issue? It appears the original link is down.

benmlee
2008.09.03, 11:36 PM
Anyone have a saved copy of the guide to fix this issue? It appears the original link is down.

Here is the new link:

http://mini-z-guide.com/94mmLCG.htm



-

frido
2008.09.04, 09:24 AM
Most of the site´s content (the htmls anyway, and most of the pictures) can also be found in the internet archive:

http://web.archive.org/web/20071214093034/http://mini-z.home.att.net/

This maybe helps in reconstructing it, too...:-)

bye, Frido.

benmlee
2008.09.04, 03:01 PM
Most of the site´s content (the htmls anyway, and most of the pictures) can also be found in the internet archive:

http://web.archive.org/web/20071214093034/http://mini-z.home.att.net/

This maybe helps in reconstructing it, too...:-)

bye, Frido.

Wow! Thanks!

Didn't know something like that existed. That makes reconstruction way easier since I still have all the pictures. Thank goodness for whoever did that site too :)

Tjay
2008.09.04, 03:25 PM
Thank you for the link.

I'm happy to say that I never had to use glue, lock tight or any modification on mine. Just tighen up the screw and my 2wd mod is ready to go. Thanks for this very convenient motor mount Philip!

frido
2008.09.04, 04:39 PM
Wow! Thanks!

Didn't know something like that existed. That makes reconstruction way easier since I still have all the pictures. Thank goodness for whoever did that site too :)

Glad I could help....:-) It saved my a couple of times, too!

Bye, Frido.

fraz
2008.09.04, 09:30 PM
Modification is done with just a hand drill and a 1.6mm drill bit.

FYI for others wanting to do this mod.

1.6 millimeters = 0.062992126 inches

.0625 inches = 1/16" drill bit should get you close!!

Nice writeup Ben.

marc
2008.09.07, 10:00 AM
Hi there guy's, I just got this same motor mount as part of my Reflex Racing package,
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC07978.jpg
I tried it out for the first time on the track yesterday and only issue I had "so far" was that the motor mount came loose and the gears dis-engaged thus stalling the car. So I tightened it up again and it worked fine. After reading your posts I'll double check that verticle peice, but I dont' think it's an issue for me. I do think I need to rebuild it though to try and get the wire terminals away from the differential. I had thought that the motor's label was to face rearward?

EMU
2008.09.07, 12:27 PM
Marc, I would suggest using a little threadlock on the screws that hold the motor adapter and the t-plate in. I try to use a little on every screw that goes into metal. Damper post screws especially. The last thing you want is a damper unscrewing in the middle of a race.

Add a little glue on the damper post arm as suggested earlier in the thread. Even if you dont have the problem, in a collision during a race it could easily develop into one. I had mine move on me last night, and the difference in performance was night and day.

marc
2008.09.07, 12:39 PM
I'd use blue thread lock before useing glue. I'll do that when I rebuild it.

ianc
2008.09.10, 03:18 PM
Also, just a quick thank you to Ben for putting together his site. Great effort with a lot of excellent information.

Thanks Ben!

ianc

GIHOSU
2008.11.03, 06:20 PM
My solid setup is a longer screw with an added washer and nut for the adjustable arm. When I added the nut the motor was hitting it and the alignment was off. I have added 2 washers between the motor and motor mount with longer screw and it is perfect now. No arm movement yet...

Hekyl
2008.12.02, 01:29 PM
I think I'll wait for the next release. Thanks for BETA testing fellas :)

Ton
2009.04.21, 04:31 AM
New V2 for LCG 94mm motor mount:

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6231/200904201821481.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=200904201821481.jpg)


http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8548/200904201821492.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=200904201821492.jpg)


http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6289/200904201823413.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=200904201823413.jpg)


http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/5891/200904201823424.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=200904201823424.jpg)


http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/2035/200904201835035.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=200904201835035.jpg)


Best regards from Spain.

hrdrvr
2009.04.21, 08:19 AM
^ That looks very light and refined! The damper post mounting system is cool....

babstar
2009.04.21, 11:36 AM
Looks much better than v1 which was pretty useless.
Can I send the v1 in and get a v2 instead? :)

benmlee
2009.04.22, 02:27 AM
The new damper post with rail and slot feature should take care of the post moving issue once and for all. The left side of the mount is also stronger.
This mount is one of the best handling 94mm mount out there. Its weakness has always been the loose damper post. With these changes, it should be a no brainer when it comes to 94mm mounts.