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marc
2008.09.07, 08:58 PM
Hello there. Now that I've got my Ferrari Modena Rm and my Lamborghini Murcielago MM set up just right, I wish to add a third car to my garage. I already have the gorgeous street-red Porsche 934 and I want to set it up on a 2.4 MR15.
I have considered setting it up the same way as my Murcielago, but then I considered the fact that it's a narrower car, the chassis has a higher center of gravity, and I heard the stock wheels/tires suck on RCP track.
I'd like to use Team Atlis gold wheels and Atomic's tires, what is the Porsche's offset and what's the best components for setting up the 934 on an MR15? Do I just use the same parts as my Murcielago, and just change the degrees, or does it require different parts? 934's MM correct?
I want this car to handle as much to scale as possible. I'm aware that these Porsches are prone over steer. I'd like to achieve this effect, yet keep it controlable. Is that too much to ask for? I don't want the Porsche to flip and I know alot of that has to do with throttle control while turning, et'c.

EMU
2008.09.07, 10:42 PM
P934 is 86mm RM. The shortest wheelbase. If I remember correctly, you can run 1N on the front, and 1W rear. Its not really a body that is great for racing, unless you are running a Porsche cup ;)

I helped someone set one up about a year ago. We used stock tires on the front, sanded flat, wheel chucked in a dremel and sanded on a 400 grit sandpaper. We wanted to make them flat and thinner to give it more responsive steering and lower the car a little without lifting the knuckle. I think we used Kyosho 20d slicks on the rear. Medium CF t-plate, 3Racing Disc Damper, I dont remember the front springs but I think they were PN white with the shortest limiter.

Try to lower the front end a little. Maybe .5mm. If the car pushes a little, you can go a little harder on the t-plate or rear tires. What motor are you planning to use. I would recommend the PN 70t. This is becomming my favorite motor to use.

If you want to achieve oversteer, use standard stock rear tires (sanded rough) or 30d slicks. You will get lots of it. Porsches usually oversteer a little on turn in, but push out on throttle. They are RM, remember. So, it is as similar to the full size as you can in the configuration that they are in.

I really had a lot of fun driving my old Lancia Stratos with the ASC tires. It was drifting pretty controllably after I got used to it. The slip angle wasnt nearly what the AWD would do, but it was probably one of the most fun times I ever drove a car without anyone else on the track.

Just remember that you can use LM front tires on the classic wheels if you want to keep the classic wheels on the car. Only problem is you would need to use narrow tires on the rear :(

marc
2008.09.08, 09:41 AM
Thank you EMU. I just remember somebody here saying that the stock wheels/tires suck. So, I was thinking of useing Team Atlis's gold wheels for a more "tuner" look. I usually dont' like useing stock wheels as most of theme are ugly.
Are there any particular motor mount's that'll work well for the 934? Does anybody have any pictures of their 934 chassis?
As for motor, not sure. Probably just a standard PN motor or something simple. Won't really know till I start building this project. LOL!
Also, what are the week points of the 934's body? Like the 962 cracks easily on the front and the lenses always pops out. Should I get another red 934 body for display? Or will this one hold up pretty well?
I dont' want too much oversteer that'll make the car undrivable, but I do want it sort of scale behavior. Should I use the same components I have on my Murcielago? Or is it being a different body, they behave differently? Obviously, the Murcielago is wider.

EMU
2008.09.08, 12:45 PM
The car will be very different than the Murcielago. The Murc is 12mm longer, and 5mm wider in the front. Even just the difference in the 015 compared to the 02 chassis will make it much different. I would go with 2d knuckles, although those may not be what you would like. You cant follow my setup exactly, since my track is different, and my driving style is different. You have to play around with it and see what works best for you.

One major suggestion, would be to shave off the top of the window that is under the roof (unseen). This makes much more of a difference on the 015 bodies than it does on the 02. Some of the 02 bodies you dont want to do that to.

marc
2008.09.08, 12:51 PM
WHat's the point of shaving the windows?
Anyway, my first step will be to get a 2.4 MR15 chassis. That's first on the list. I found one in this sites shop for 130-40 buck's which I won't be able to get for at least two weeks time. I'll also try and get bearings at the same time too.
Then I'll try and get my choice of wheels/tires which will be the gold Team Atlis wheels and Atomic tires. Then we'll go from there.
I'm thinking of smoked MR15 2.4 chassis and orange PN alloy. I think the orange will go well with the red body dont' you?

marc
2008.09.08, 12:56 PM
Since it helps to have pictures with projects, I'll post the first pic showing the body that I want to use. I dont' know if anybody has noticed this, but the Guards Red that Porsche uses and that is used here, seems to have an orange hue to it when under some light. That's why I was thinking PN's orange alloy would look good on this project.
Here's the body.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08011.jpg
Two week's time I'll post pic of the chassis when I get it. This car just look's so gorgeous it would look sweet racing on the track.

EMU
2008.09.08, 01:10 PM
For motormount, the PN Orange RM one should go perfectly ;) Using the PN ML damper plate with 3Racing DDS post adapter (to connect to the 2 posts on the motormount) that comes with the 3racing Disc Damper set.

That is one of the best looking Mini-Z bodies :P

marc
2008.09.08, 01:12 PM
I always thought the 934 was MM. I'd still love to see a 928.
I love this body and it's itching to be driven.

If you look at gallery 93 at Mini-Z Bar, there is a brownish 934 with the wheel's I plan on useing.

marc
2008.09.08, 01:19 PM
Does Atomic make an aluminum front body clip for the 934?

simpleskin
2008.09.08, 02:07 PM
Check my gallery, I have a flawlessly performing 934 with a few good pics. I will answer specific questions but will not go on endlessly on this thread with you :D

marc
2008.09.08, 03:14 PM
Thank you, I found the gallery, not much detailed photo of the chassis, but look's nice. I'm interested in knowing the motor mount and damper system you've got there.

flat 4
2008.09.08, 05:01 PM
week points of the body, at least with mine (#9 Vailant) was front lenses have pop off and the rear bumper "pads". Other wise the body will take a beating.

marc
2008.09.08, 05:05 PM
Thank's flat! Does anybody know if Atomic has a red motor mount that'll work for it?

EMU
2008.09.08, 11:10 PM
Thank's flat! Does anybody know if Atomic has a red motor mount that'll work for it?

You mean like this:
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/album726/RX73.jpg

That is a 90mm RM mount, where it is compatable with the 94mm damper setups and t-plate length when configured in 90mm. I prefer to use the MM t-plates personally, which would be possible in the 86mm setting with this mount in the longest position. I dont think that I still have this mount :confused:

Out of stock, but send a support ticket ;) http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=17074&cat=0&page=1

Other option:
http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/product/details.is?cat_id=436&product_id=12302&x=y

I do prefer the PN mount though ;)

marc
2008.09.09, 09:00 AM
Thank's again! Very nice looking RX7. What wheels you got on there? Squares inch-up BBS would look hot on that!

EMU
2008.09.09, 09:38 AM
That car doesnt exist anymore. Dont know what the wheels where, -1W rears... stock fronts. I never liked that damper, but I never tried it with oil.

marc
2008.09.09, 09:52 AM
I've had two previous MR15's. First one was a red Mini Cooper S which did pretty well. Second one was my Kyosho-Spech Nissan Skyline and it flipped alot. I dont' want the 934 to flip as I dont want it's body to get damaged or scratched too badly.

simpleskin
2008.09.09, 10:12 AM
I've had two previous MR15's. First one was a red Mini Cooper S which did pretty well. Second one was my Kyosho-Spech Nissan Skyline and it flipped alot. I dont' want the 934 to flip as I dont want it's body to get damaged or scratched too badly.

1. Use the wheels from the GT3RS
2. Use 1 or 2 camber front knuckles
3. Use a DPS
4. Use a soft h plate
5. Use pn rcp tires 10 - 20 rear, 20 front

934 is very robust, nothing breaks when it/if it rolls

EMU
2008.09.09, 10:29 AM
I disagree with the soft t-plate. That will give it more body roll, and allow the front end to lift the inside front tire a lot more. With a stiffer plate, you can use harder front tires and still have the same level of steering.

I use 40d Atomic Standard tires on my 015, and have more steering and corner speed than many 02's.

simpleskin
2008.09.09, 10:47 AM
I disagree with the soft t-plate. That will give it more body roll, and allow the front end to lift the inside front tire a lot more. With a stiffer plate, you can use harder front tires and still have the same level of steering.

I use 40d Atomic Standard tires on my 015, and have more steering and corner speed than many 02's.

Good point. I'll try the harder t plate tonight

marc
2008.09.09, 10:51 AM
I'd love to use those wheels if I can ever find'em.

simpleskin
2008.09.09, 12:19 PM
I'd love to use those wheels if I can ever find'em.

I've found them numerous times from ebay and kyosho americas store. For someone with two dnano's you'd think you could find a set of $5 dollar wheels :D

EMU
2008.09.09, 12:45 PM
I was using the FRP t-plate for a while. The car felt good, but transitioned a bit too slow. I switched to the hardest PN SSG t-plate, and the car was much more responsive and had less body roll. I kept the rest of the setup the same. The SSG t-plate is pretty soft compared to the Kyosho carbons, but much stiffer than the FRP.

marc
2008.09.09, 12:59 PM
I've found them numerous times from ebay and kyosho americas store. For someone with two dnano's you'd think you could find a set of $5 dollar wheels :D

Ha, ha. Those Porsche 911 GT3 wheels white/gold are hard to find though. I'd love a gold set for black M3.

marc
2008.09.14, 02:09 PM
What is the best wheel offset front and rear for the 934 on the MR15 chassis? I want the wheels right up at the inside of the wheel well to look good, yet, still very driveable. I dont want theme sticking outside the fenders, and I dont' want theme rubbing when turning left/right. The wheels I'll be getting for the red 934 is the gold Team Atlis wheels as I think these will be the best looking best performing wheels for it. As for tires, I'll use the same set up I have on my Modena.
If I want the tail end to slide out a tad, without overspinning, you know, controllable, what tires, springs, shocks, et'c should I use? What's the best camber for the 934?

As stated earlier, I want it to drive as close to the real car as possible without it being uncontrolable. Am I asking too much? LOL!

flat 4
2008.09.17, 04:55 PM
How is the 2.4 934 come'n. eny luck finding the wright wheels yet?

marc
2008.09.17, 06:09 PM
Hi there flat 4. No updates yet. First I have to get the chassis! LOL! Without the chassis, I pretty much have nothing. Well, AutoScale, but nothing as for this project is concerned. Need to save up money/sell things before I can get the MR15. Plus, got lot's of other things going as well. So sorry, no updates, unless nothing is considered an update? Anyway, I know which wheels I want, just question of which offset will be best for the MR15.

flat 4
2008.09.19, 08:33 PM
thanks for the update. At lest you have not givin up. I was really suprize'd how well mine handled. right now I have been runnig the MINI cooper> Its kinda fun seeing the MINI run down a Countach!

marc
2008.09.19, 08:57 PM
No, I haven't given up, just dont' have the immediate funds for it all. Plus, there are two other projects I want to do as well, the 2.4 Monster truck, and the 2.4 MR01. I tried my MR01 earlier today and the board is officially dead. The chassis is perfect, all the wireing looks good, I see nothing loose, but I get nothing, even with fresh batteries in car and transmitter, matching crystals, the works. But I already posted that else where.
As for this 934 project, I know exactly what I want for wheels except the offset's. I need to know what offset should I get to get the wheels right up at the inside of the wheel well for that "tuner" look, but still be driveable with the front wheels able to turn full left/right.
Again, my very first step is to get the 2.4 MR15 chassis and a good set of ball bearings. That's number one. Step two is getting the wheels/tires that I want. Then the question is, what is step three? What's the best motor mount to use for this project?

EMU
2008.09.19, 10:05 PM
For the wheels, 1mm offset would be ideal. 1.5 is possible, but a little too close for me. I have seen the 934 driven on an MR02 with -1mm front wheels...

Best motor for this project would be either the Kyosho stock, or the PN 70t. I dont think any faster of a motor would be needed. Unless you want to be a doing cartwheels down the track.

marc
2008.09.20, 05:07 PM
I am very, very happy with the way my MR02 RM Modena is set up, can I use the same parts for the MR15? Except of coarse tie-rods. Or is setting up the MR15 completely different as it tends to body roll more than the MR02's will? My Modena is 100% purely Kyosho upgrades with the exception of a PN motor.
What's recommended for the MR15? And is the 934 RM or MM? I think the 935 is MM isn't it?

EMU
2008.09.21, 01:10 AM
934 and 935 = 86mm, MM starts at 94mm with PN/ATM mounts. You can modify the 935 body to run 94mm MM by shaving the wheel wells. I think that 98mm is also capable with a little shaving of the body and the LM mount. It just looks a little funny...

Setup is a bit different, but similar. You get more roll with the 015, so you have to expect that. You want to keep the car as low as you can. Using low profile front tires is a good start. I prefer to use lower profile front tires to lowering the car via shims/low springs. It also increases agility, which if you use harder front tires to counter traction rolling, you will lose. That is the main asset of the 015 over the 02. It is considerably lighter than an 02, and rotates very well in the slow corners.

I like 1-2d camber on the 015 depending on the layout, body and tire choice. 0d knuckles will give you the fastest steering response, which is not necessarily a good thing for the 015 since it rotates well as it is.

What I would do, is use the stock RM mount first with the stock motor, or PN 70t. Then see what it needs from there. The 3Racing disc damper would be the only one that I can suggest that will work with 86mm.

marc
2008.09.21, 10:40 AM
You mention layout, really easy at home when I have it set up and it stays the same pretty much all week. But when I go to the local club, it's different all the time so I never know how the track will be laid out. I also don't know if we're racing on two different tracks, one for Z's and one for 1/18's, or what. So it's hard to set up the cars specifically for layout's. I need to set it up for anything.

marc
2008.10.04, 10:34 PM
Hi there, I'm tempted to purchase the MR15 2.4 chassis, but I'm wondering. Can the 934 MR15 be competative? And what's the very best wheel offset I can put on this car? I want to use Team Atlis's gold wheels on it. I'm pondering about buying and building an MR15, or the Dnano's.
Also, what's a better body to race on the MR15, the 934, or the Ferrari 355? Or are they pretty much the same? Their dimensions seem to be the same so it is just down to a matter of choice?
We don't race the Dnano's at our club as not enough people have'em, but I enjoy racing theme more on my Mini96 at home, than the bigger Z's. What do you think? I just think the street-red 934 is such a gorgeous car and would look fabulous on the track at the club.

EMU
2008.10.05, 11:01 AM
I dont feel that the 934 or 355 are very competetive. They shouldnt be too poor, but they have their limitations. The RM setup really restricts how hard they can be pushed, and the shorter wheelbases lower the corner speed. The 355 would be better than the 934. My favorite 015 body is the Fairlady 350z, followed by GTI run in the 94mm MM setup.

flat 4
2008.10.05, 12:07 PM
When I ran my 934 I would hit the apex early and get right back on it as quickly as possable.That work pretty well most of the time We also ran on a short track thoe. Also the Countach and MINI are decent bodys as well.

marc
2008.10.05, 06:31 PM
I've had problems with the Mini Cooper before flipping if went too fast around turns. Although I probably didn't have it set up properly who knows. I am also tempted by that silver Mini Cooper S with the chequred roof.

marc
2008.10.05, 09:42 PM
Well, I decided to go ahead and get me an MR15 2.4 chassis and the Team Atlis wheels so I can run my Porsche 934. I'll post pic's of the car as I receive the parts. I found out that the wheel offsets are 1N and 1W, so that's what I got in the Atlis gold wheels which should look fabulous on the Porsche. I also got a set of Atomic tires which I've been likeing pretty well and should give the Porsche some good grip.
My next step is I think I'll get Reflex Racing's stage one set up first.
I also picked up some "PROPER" Mini-Z tools and gear for the track.

EMU
2008.10.06, 01:00 AM
For the disc damper, I recommend either the 3racing DPS, or the Kawada DPS. Those are the only two that come out of the package to work on the 86mm RM setup.

If you use the Atomic 90mm RM mount, you would be able to use the Kyosho DPS or adaper to a PN post/plates.

I have mixed and matched many parts to fit the setups that I have wanted to do. My favorite 86mm setup was the 3Racing damper post mount, combined with the PN 98mm MM FPS damper plate with Atomic white delrin discs.

The car in the picture was setup for the 935, however if I were to run the 934, I dont think I would need to make any adjustments besides tires (wheel offset was 1n/1w). This car used an old MR01 PN motormount and 01 ball diff. The same setup could be done with the newer 02 motormount and 02 ball diff and would probably perform better.
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25626&stc=1&d=1223272717

marc
2008.10.06, 09:46 AM
Thank's EMU, your very helpfull. Nice chassis there by the way.

marc
2008.10.06, 11:07 AM
I'm confused about an upgrade here.
I'm looking at an item on ebay, Hobby Japan is selling, and it's the SP Skeliton chassis set for the MR15, you know, the smoked/gold terminals one. The top of the package sais it's suitable for 2.4. Yet, inside the package you see the top part for the older 27mgz. Do these kit's contain both top peices? One for the 27, and one for the 2.4? I need specifically the 2.4 version. I'd post the item number but Hobby Japan has blocked out the right click option so I can't copy it. Nor can I past the ebay link here.

marc
2008.10.06, 11:24 AM
Is this a good motor mount for my project? What should I get to go along with it, disc-damper, rear suspension system, differential, et'c.

PN Racing Mini-Z MR015/MR02 RM Motor Mount (Silver)
[Parts # 10045MS]

I'd like to get Atomic's red alloy motor mount, but can not find any and I don't think they have an RM version. So, I'll go all silver with this one too.

kryten
2008.10.06, 12:00 PM
I'm confused about an upgrade here.
I'm looking at an item on ebay, Hobby Japan is selling, and it's the SP Skeliton chassis set for the MR15, you know, the smoked/gold terminals one. The top of the package sais it's suitable for 2.4. Yet, inside the package you see the top part for the older 27mgz. Do these kit's contain both top peices? One for the 27, and one for the 2.4? I need specifically the 2.4 version. I'd post the item number but Hobby Japan has blocked out the right click option so I can't copy it. Nor can I past the ebay link here.

The chassis kits(unless specified 2.4ghz) come with the AM top cover,the 2.4 covers need to be purchased seperately,unless you buy the 2.4 conv kit with tx-this comes with an 02+015 2.4 top cover.
Maybe someone has a spare one they dont use from an 02 conversion.I have a spare 015 2.4 cover if you get stuck,but the shipping will probs make it the same price as you ordering one stateside.

marc
2008.10.06, 12:14 PM
Hi there Kryten. I'm looking to replace the ugly black/red chassis that the MR15's come with for the nicer smoked chassis. I've only seen the normal smoked chassis and not the 2.4 version. Is the MR15 top peice the same as the MR02's top peice?
As for buying a 2.4 conversion set, not needed as I'm getting the MR15 2.4 chassis set to start with and I've already got the KT-18 transmitter. I'm just looking to get the smoked/gold version which will look much better with the silver aluminum upgrades.

EMU
2008.10.06, 12:31 PM
Is this a good motor mount for my project? What should I get to go along with it, disc-damper, rear suspension system, differential, et'c.

PN Racing Mini-Z MR015/MR02 RM Motor Mount (Silver)
[Parts # 10045MS]

I'd like to get Atomic's red alloy motor mount, but can not find any and I don't think they have an RM version. So, I'll go all silver with this one too.
That PN mount would be my choice.

I already covered the Disc Damper in my previous post... The only compatable disc dampers directly out of the package would be the 3Racing DPS, or the Kawada DPS. The Kawada is very difficult to find, and much more expensive when you can find it. The 3Racing DPS is able to work on just about every chassis configuration.

Atomic do have an RM 90mm Red mount. I have one, although I dont have the damper mount posts for it.

marc
2008.10.06, 12:33 PM
Here is a picture of somebody else's 934 with the same Team Atlis wheels that I'm getting. I don't care for his choice of color, but I think the wheels willl look fabulous against the stock red. Photo curtesy of Mini-ZBar.com
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/934Atlis.jpg
It also look's like he widened his fenders a bit too...........

kryten
2008.10.06, 12:36 PM
Hi there Kryten. I'm looking to replace the ugly black/red chassis that the MR15's come with for the nicer smoked chassis. I've only seen the normal smoked chassis and not the 2.4 version. Is the MR15 top peice the same as the MR02's top peice?
As for buying a 2.4 conversion set, not needed as I'm getting the MR15 2.4 chassis set to start with and I've already got the KT-18 transmitter. I'm just looking to get the smoked/gold version which will look much better with the silver aluminum upgrades.

Inever took much notice tbh,tho the 015 top cover is red not blue,i'll dig it out and have a look.

marc
2008.10.06, 12:41 PM
In that case I do not want it as I want to replace the red.
I'll be getting my MR15 chassis middle of the week, "bought from the shop!", and I should be getting my package from EGR Mart around the same time.
I decided it was time to get the Atomic 3 in 1 Mini-Z tool kit, two Mini-Z protective boxes for carrying to the track, set up board, the Team Atlis wheels and Atomic tires. Oh, and I picked up Atomics tire-box as well. Wish they made a box for all the springs and H-plates.
Somebody should make a fancy box that carries tires, springs, H-plates, tie-rods, and knuckles all in neat organized fasion inlade with soft velore or something like that. Maybe not velore but you know what I mean. Tiny little pegs or something for organizing the springs better so they don't get all tangled up with eachother, and so you can select the pair you need quicker.

marc
2008.10.06, 09:51 PM
Hello there. I'm sorry if I'm sounding dumb here, but will this Atomic motor mount work for my 934? I know that the 934 is RM type, but is the length correct?
MR-02 Atomic 90mm Aluminum Motor Mount


ATOMIC Racing

Support the RM damper plate system (AR33)

Color : Blue ,Silver or Red

PRODUCT ID : AR67

MR-0289
Weight: 2.00 oz

Because if so, than MicroRacers has it in RED in stock and that'll be a nice match.
What else do I need to get to make this work? Suspension wise?

EMU
2008.10.06, 10:50 PM
Hello there. I'm sorry if I'm sounding dumb here, but will this Atomic motor mount work for my 934? I know that the 934 is RM type, but is the length correct?
MR-02 Atomic 90mm Aluminum Motor Mount


ATOMIC Racing

Support the RM damper plate system (AR33)

Color : Blue ,Silver or Red

PRODUCT ID : AR67

MR-0289
Weight: 2.00 oz

Because if so, than MicroRacers has it in RED in stock and that'll be a nice match.
What else do I need to get to make this work? Suspension wise?
Yes, you can use that motormount. You would need to setup the damper for a 90mm setup when the wheelbase is set to 86mm. The motormount was designed to use a 94mm damper when using the 90mm bodies. The 3Racing damper would suit this as well. You could also use the Kyosho RM damper with this mount.

The one thing that might be of concern is clearance for the damper, the further back you set the damper post, the less clearance you will have. I dont think that it will be much of an issue, although it could possibly be one.

marc
2008.10.07, 09:09 AM
The 934 seems to have alot of room back there. I won't know anything till I get the chassis and begin with the stock hight of things.
I was looking for a silver RM motor mount that has that long neck like the older 3Racing, or Hot-Racing version. I think TopCad had one too. Is that motor mount any good? I know it won't accomidate the disc damper, but I'm not even sure if I want a disc damper on this car.
I want the tail to be a bit oversteer as I mentioned before. And I think a disc-damper will make it too tight and too grippy.
For that long neck RM motor mount, the only one I can find is a blue one from HR on ebay. But I'm really after a silver one. Is TopCad any good? Some of their parts suck like their battery clips, but I dont' know about their other parts.

EMU
2008.10.07, 10:35 AM
The disc damper will make the car consistant in its performance. Tires and suspension stiffness will dictate its oversteer/understeer nature. I allways recommend a disc damper at the least.

The older RM motor mounts were basically the same as the stock mount, but in alloy. They also will not work for this project, they are designed for 94mm RM. You want a mount that allows continuous gear mesh adjustment so you can fine tune the mesh.

I try to avoid TopCad when I can.

marc
2008.10.07, 10:54 AM
Thank you as do I. As I mentioned in my wanting to buy battery clips, that TopCad basically sucks. I've had their battery clips a while back on my old MR01 and the clips were loose. Plus, their design is ugly as well!
I think I'll stick with PN stuff or whatever Reflex recommends. I know their packages are catered to MM's, but wonder if they can help me out with RM. Seems like they prefer MM more than RM for flat out racing.

okoye
2008.10.07, 10:56 AM
hey marc still have the original porshe rims that came with the body? care to sell them?

marc
2008.10.07, 11:16 AM
As this is not the appropiate place for buying/selling, please PM me concerning the wheels.

EMU
2008.10.07, 12:48 PM
I know my RM setups very well. MM is more competetive, as there is more on power steering in general. Most larger track layouts favor the MM setup, since you dont have to back off of power as much through the sweepers. RM is a little better in low grip, although you have to come off throttle sooner, and get on throttle a little entering the corner, where the MM you can basically just dive into the corner harder than the RM. RM will typically swap ends or roll without a little throttle to balance the car entering the corner. There is more pendulum effect, where the rear wants to keep going straight with the RM than the MM. MM will feel more similar between on throttle and off throttle cornering, while RM has much more of a difference between on throttle and off throttle cornering.

The best 86mm RM damper setup is the 3Racing damper post adapter with the PN ML FRP damper system in the 98mm position. You can easily add a top shock if needed as well.

marc
2008.10.08, 09:22 AM
Well cool! I got both my packages today so I'm a happy camper. Here are pictures of my new MR15 2.4 chassis with it's Team Atlis wheels. They sure look sweet on this Porsche!
Enjoy the pics.

MR15 2.4 chassis with aftermarket wheels.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08117.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08120.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08121.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08122.jpg


However, the Porsche could definetly use some lowering, it looks a tad too high for my likeing. What's the best way to lower this car? Should I get that Kyosho suspension setting "spacer" set?

marc
2008.10.09, 02:43 PM
Successfully binded the transmitter with chassis and the car works great! Now time for some upgrades.
Still puzzled about the smoked skeleton chassis kit for the MR15 2.4 that I've seen posted on ebay from Hobby Japan. It sais suitable for both, their is a ASF 2.4 label on the package, but the chassis in the package shows the top of the older 27 AM car. Does the package include the 2.4 top as well? Or do they just say it's suitable if you modify it?

marc
2008.10.16, 05:39 PM
I'm thinking it's time to upgrade the MR15. So far at EGR Mart I have the following in my shopping cart. Please let me know what else I should get.
Mini-Z Alu Wheels off set 1 Gold BBS-type narrow
USD $12.50 USD $12.50
Mini-Z Alu Wheels off set 1 Gold BBS-type wide
USD $12.50 USD $12.50
Mini-Z 8* Radial Groove Tire - Wide (for RCP Track)
USD $2.60 USD $2.60
A.W. Groove Tyre - 30 Degree (Narrow)
USD $3.30 USD $3.30
Alloy Tie Rod (+1*) for MR-015
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
Alloy Tie Rod (0*) for MR-015
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
Alu. Steering Knuckle II -- (1*)
USD $15.80 USD $15.80
Delrin Fricition Disk for DPS
USD $3.90 USD $3.90
Delrin Front Collar Set
USD $2.60 USD $5.20
Double Side Stick Tape for Mini-Z Rims
USD $1.30 USD $2.60
Front Collar Spacer Set for MR-02
USD $2.60 USD $2.60
Mini-Z Ceramic Full Ball Bearing Set
USD $36.80 USD $36.80
Titanium Screw set for Mini-Z
USD $6.20 USD $6.20
FRP Rear Sus. Plate Set (MM)
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
Alu. Motor for MR-02 RM-Blue "Will probably get the red one from MicroRacers if they still have it instead of the blue one".
USD $26.10 USD $26.10
1.0mm SSG Damper Plate (for RM)
USD $9.50 USD $9.50
MR-02 Front Spring Set (Racing Edition)
USD $3.00 USD $3.00
MR-02 Low Ride Height Spring (for RCP)

Do all these sound like a good set up? Also, which disc-damper should I get again? PS, the gold BBS wheels are for my Ferrari 355!

marc
2008.10.16, 07:59 PM
Yes, I noticed that the FRP Rear suspension plate reads MM but I also have an MM car and I had thought the description read RM in another part of the title. :D

As for the disc-damper, should I go ahead and get the Kyosho brand RM set up as I've been told it will work with the chosen motor mount?

Another question in regards to the chassis. The point where the disc-damper mounts to the chassis, is it the same distance between the two holes on the MR02 as it is the MR15? I noticed there is no different disc-damper peice specifically for MR15.
I do know that up front, the MR15 has a narrower tie-rod holder and tie-rod.

EMU
2008.10.16, 09:23 PM
You can use the MM t-plates with the P934 since it uses 86mm wheelbase. Any 86 or 90mm RM car with the standard length RM pod can use the MM t-plates. You can use the MM on the 90mm Atomic RM pod when set to 86mm.

Damper plates are the same for 015 to 02.

marc
2008.10.16, 09:40 PM
Okay thank you. Forgetting color's, will these three parts work together AND work with my 934?

Alu. 90mm WB Motor Pod (For DPS)

Adjust. Rear Shock Set (for MR-02/015)

Titanium DPS Kit for 94mm WB (MM Type)

The only other DPS kit they had was for 98 which sounds too long for 934?

Now back to colors, do you think the blue alloy will clash with the red car?

marc
2008.10.17, 09:25 AM
This is how my shopping cart look's now. I deleted the extra wheels as I really don't need'em. I changed the motor mount type slightly and picked up a DSP of some sort. I just hope it'll all work together and work for my 934.

Delrin Front Collar Set
USD $2.60 USD $5.20
Alu. Steering Knuckle II -- (1*)
USD $15.80 USD $15.80
Double Side Stick Tape for Mini-Z Rims
USD $1.30 USD $2.60
Front Collar Spacer Set for MR-02
USD $2.60 USD $2.60
Alloy Tie Rod (0*) for MR-015
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
Alloy Tie Rod (+1*) for MR-015
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
A.W. Groove Tyre - 30 Degree (Narrow)
USD $3.30 USD $3.30
Mini-Z 8* Radial Groove Tire - Wide (for RCP Track)
USD $2.60 USD $2.60
Titanium DPS Kit for 94mm WB (MM Type)
USD $23.70 USD $23.70
Alu. 90mm WB Motor Pod (For DPS)
USD $28.90 USD $28.90
Adjust. Rear Shock Set (for MR-02/015)
USD $13.10 USD $13.10
MR-02 Low Ride Height Spring (for RCP)
USD $3.30 USD $3.30
MR-02 Front Spring Set (Racing Edition)
USD $3.00 USD $3.00
FRP Rear Sus. Plate Set (RM)
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
FRP Rear Sus. Plate Set (MM)
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
Titanium Screw set for Mini-Z
USD $6.20 USD $6.20
Mini-Z Ceramic Full Ball Bearing Set
USD $36.80 USD $36.80

What motor and differential should I use with this combination? I want a medium speed motor.

EMU
2008.10.17, 12:33 PM
How are you planning to attach the damper post to the motormount? The adapter that you use will dictate what damper plate should be used. I personally prefer the PN ML damper plates better than the Atomic, around the same price but can be used for 94 and 98mm MM setups. I also dont like the Titanium damper plates action.

My damper setup with the PN MR01 mount used a 98mm MM damper plate with the 3Racing damper post adapter which mounts the damper post directly above the t-plate screw holes. I dont think that the Atomic RM conversion will work for the 90mm damper setting that the Atomic 90 RM pod will have when set to 86mm for the 934. You could possibly use the adapter from the Kyosho RM damper, or make your own. I still feel that the 3Racing damper setup is the best to use, as you dont have to fuss around with parts of different dampers to set it up.

Blue alloy looks good on red, but I dont feel that it really matters what color that car is.

For parts on the list:
Delrin Front Collar Set
USD $2.60 USD $5.20
Alu. Steering Knuckle II -- (1*) (I prefer 2 degree myself)
USD $15.80 USD $15.80
Front Collar Spacer Set for MR-02
USD $2.60 USD $2.60
Mini-Z 8* Radial Groove Tire - Wide (for RCP Track)
USD $2.60 USD $2.60
FRP Rear Sus. Plate Set (MM)
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
Titanium Screw set for Mini-Z
USD $6.20 USD $6.20

I would recommend the PN spring set over the Atomic. As well as PN tire tape. 30d AW Groove may be too much on the 015. I use 40d ATM standard front tires, and find them to work well. Get the Avid bearings from reflex, ceramics are too expensive and the real world performance is basically the same.

marc
2008.10.17, 12:41 PM
Thank you EMU, I apologize if I seem to be repeating and asking alot of similar questions. But 200 bucks is a lot to spend on a car and I want to make sure I do it right as it's cheaper the first time around then discovering you made an error in part selection and thus haveing to purchase more.
It's also tough finding all the right parts in one store which if you can helps save on shipping.
I may just as well select a Reflex Racing Stage Two package but the problem there is they tend to specialize in MM set up's.
At the same time, I'm still waiting on the arrival of the new white 911 Dnano! :D
So lot's and lot's of choices with only 200 buck's. Not much room for error!

EMU
2008.10.17, 12:47 PM
All the more reason to use the 3Racing damper ;) Its cheap!

If you use the Atomic knuckles, use Atomic kingpins as well. Otherwise you will have a little slop.

Setting up RM is a little different than MM. CT and Ruf should be able to get you set up well with the RM. I am sure that both have used RM setups in the past, MM is just a faster setup. RM isnt necessarily slow, its just not as fast as MM setups.

marc
2008.10.17, 01:16 PM
One thing I don't like about my Murcielago right now, is the rear end seems droopy with that PN motor mount, and I don't have oil for the disc-damper so it seems stiff. I tried useing the Kyosho oil that is used for the top shock, but didn't stay lubed very well. I should probably pick up a bottle or two of oil's.
I think my Modena was better than my Murcielago is now and it had the Kyosho brand disc damper mounted to the stock plastic motor mount.

Is there a different MM motor mount I should use for my Murcielago? I have PN's new LCG motor mount that was part of their previous package.
I had tried asking Reflex about an RM set up, but they told me they could not substitute parts from the package.

Back to the RM 934. I am still confused with all the different combinations of motor mounts and disc damper's and wheel base's. I feel silly! There seems to be thousands of options that the choice really comes down to personal preference and affordability! I'd love to see more photo's of how other 934's are set up.
If I had the money, I would love to have Reflex custom build me an MR15 RM specifically for 934. But then again, half the fun of these cars is building theme your selfe. I some times get bored after I've built it!

marc
2008.10.17, 01:29 PM
The Reflex Racing Stage Two kit contains the following.
-PN Racing Multi-Length Disk Damper
-PN Racing Mini-Z MR-02 Spring Set
-3Racing Mini-Z MR-02 Plastic Front Knuckle set
-PN Racing 70 turn stock motor

Plus, all the parts from the Stage 1 upgrade:

-Avid RC High Speed Bearing set
-Kyosho Mini-Z MR-02 H-plate Set
-Reflex Racing SSG2WD tires
-PN Racing Stainless Steel King Pins
-PN Racing 15 Degree Front Slicks

Are these parts universal between RM and MM? And will THEY work on 934? This kit goes for around 70 bucks which aint' too bad. Still short a motor mount and differential.

ianc
2008.10.17, 01:37 PM
Hi Marc,

Kinda too bad you went the 015 route as you can run the 934 body on an 02 chassis; I'm running one right now. If you trim the chassis slightly behind the battery clips and run -1 offset fronts, it will work fine. I can post some pics of mine (red also) if you're interested.

As far as handling, I noticed that initially, due to the short wheelbase and RM mount, the 934 tended to have a very pronounced transition from on-throttle understeer to off-throttle oversteer. Rather inconvenient in corners where you slow down just a little too much and suddenly find yourself munching wall.

To alleviate this, you can make the rear a little firmer, and try some toe-in, stiffer springs, and some not-so sticky tires in the front as well.

I'm not running a damper and just the stock 02 mount and shock for now, but I will probably grab a mount for it next to improve weight distribution a little and allow me to lower the rear of the car. You can easily lower the front by putting a couple of washers under the knuckles and cutting your limiters and using appropriate springs in front, but the rear's harder...

Good luck with the project and post pics as you go!

ianc

marc
2008.10.17, 02:38 PM
I chose the MR15 as it IS different from the MR02. As the Porsche is a completely different beast than that of the Murcielago, the chassis should be accordingly. You dont' want the 934 to handle exactly like the Murcielago, that takes away from the scale I think.
Part of my challange with this Porsche, is I want it to handle scale-like which I beleive Porsches to have a tad bit of oversteer due to the rear engine configuration. Yet, at they same time they are known to handle VERY well. Their just not as flat out fast on the turns as say the Murcielago's are.
As for my Murcielago, I've already got two washers up front and the front is still higher than the rear. I tried adjusting the PN motor mount, but it seems to lock better in the lowest position than when you raise the post. I'd like to try a different MM motor mount for the Murcielago that will still work with the disc damper I've already got. Mean while, my old black Murcielago is still in the paint booth! My painter should have it done by next week.
Back to the 934, I want the handling to be scale like.
However and when ever I upgrade the chassis, I'll definetly post pic's!

One of my future projects will be another MR15 RM specifically set up for the Altezza which is another beast. It is a front engine rear wheel drive car and chassis should be set up accordingly if possible? Or am I dreaming here?
It's boring if all chassis was set up identically because it works so well. You might not want a car to be on rails! You might want oversteer!

ianc
2008.10.17, 02:49 PM
Back to the 934, I want the handling to be scale like

Oh, it will, believe me. With the motor hanging off the rear, it will behave as you would expect a 911 to. :) Even though my 934 is not as outright fast as my GT40 or 962, I would still almost say it is more fun to drive.

I've been looking a bit for a rear mount for it, and so far the most promising thing I see is here: http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=18934&cat=367&page=1

It claims to be only for 90 mm however. I wonder why, and if it can be made to work with an 86 mm setup by using MM t-plates?

ianc

marc
2008.10.17, 02:52 PM
I beleive that's the same one I had in my EGR shopping cart!

marc
2008.10.19, 06:31 PM
Okay, I was looking at my chart that I printed from Atomic Mods. It sais that the Porsche 934 is 86RM. So that means I can use ANY RM motor mount, but need an 86 specific disc-damper, or can I use one of those multi-length disc-dampers?
Seems to me the best way to make this set up simple for me, is to use this Atomic motor mount
Model: AR-054-B
Manufactured by: Atomic
and Kyosho's disc-damper which mounts directly to the stock plastic motor mount. I think this is the simplest way to go for me.

marc
2008.10.19, 06:35 PM
This is it so far, minus the Kyosho brand disc-damper which not sure if I can find it at EGR yet.

Delrin Front Collar Set
USD $2.60 USD $5.20
Alu. Steering Knuckle II -- (1*)
USD $15.80 USD $15.80
Double Side Stick Tape for Mini-Z Rims
USD $1.30 USD $2.60
Front Collar Spacer Set for MR-02
USD $2.60 USD $2.60
Alloy Tie Rod (0*) for MR-015
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
Alloy Tie Rod (+1*) for MR-015
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
A.W. Groove Tyre - 30 Degree (Narrow)
USD $3.30 USD $3.30
Mini-Z 8* Radial Groove Tire - Wide (for RCP Track)
USD $2.60 USD $2.60
Adjust. Rear Shock Set (for MR-02/015)
USD $13.10 USD $13.10
MR-02 Low Ride Height Spring (for RCP)
USD $3.30 USD $3.30
MR-02 Front Spring Set (Racing Edition)
USD $3.00 USD $3.00
FRP Rear Sus. Plate Set (RM)
USD $5.30 USD $5.30
Titanium Screw set for Mini-Z
USD $6.20 USD $6.20
Mini-Z Ceramic Full Ball Bearing Set
USD $36.80 USD $36.80
Alu. Motor for MR-02 RM-Blue
USD $26.10 USD $26.10
Sub-Total: USD $141.80

ianc
2008.10.19, 06:51 PM
I looked at that mount, but did not like the fact that the rear axle height can't be adjusted. The ass end of my car is sitting up pretty high and I'd like to get it down some. The only way I can see to do that is with the mount. I ordered the AR-220 instead:

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/alu-90mm-wb-motor-pod-for-dps-p-1695.html

It claims to be for 90 mm, but I'm hoping I can get it to work. I didn't see any other RM mount that would allow axle height adjustment... Will keep you posted...

ianc

marc
2008.10.19, 08:17 PM
That was one I was thinking of too, excpet it did not allow for Kyosho's disc-damper. As for lowering the car, I would use Kyosho's front and rear suspension spacers. It's a thin sheet of aluminum or stainless steal not sure which, that contains several small washers for adjusting the hight of the knuckles, and a rectangular peice that is used for adjusting the hight where the H-plate meet's the motor mount. I'm not sure how low you can adjust the car with this, or perhaps you can purchase two sets to get it lower. I'm thinking of going this route.

HEADS UP! I am probably going to sell my last 2.4 MR02 some time this week, it is practically brand new, used once on RCP track, and upgraded with the Reflex Racing package. This is only a THOUGHT at the moment which is why I'm posting here.
Anyway, enough blah, blah, blah.
If anybody has any photo's of their 934's, please post here! I wish to see some examples!

ianc
2008.10.21, 11:17 AM
You can use washers in the front to lower, but not in the rear...

I just got that mount in the mail yesterday (amazingly fast shipping from HKS) and got it installed. Kind of a pain since I had to drill my can, but it worked fine on the 86 mm wheelbase. I had to move the T plate up one hole to maintain 86 mm, and needed to use the stock MM shock rather than the RM, but that was the extent of it, and it lowered the rear of the car nicely. DPS is on the way from 3Racing.

As requested, here're some pics:

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25721&d=1224605523

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25722&d=1224605539

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25723&d=1224605549

ianc

marc
2008.10.21, 11:26 AM
That third pic is pretty cool. Some nice Photoshop work there? That's how we should post all our pics so we can see both body and chassis together. Which is why clear AutoScales would be interesting.
My project is on hold for a while and dont know when I can spend more on it. Going to Florida with Dad soon for about a month, I'm broke and can't sell anything till I return.
So, project's on hold...........:(

ianc
2008.10.21, 11:40 AM
Yep, a little Photoshop. I was inspired by some pics I saw over in the AWD forum.

Have fun in FLA!

ianc

marc
2008.10.21, 11:48 AM
Might be selling Z's and just have fun with Dnano's.

marc
2008.10.25, 09:57 PM
I drove the 934 today on our RCP track. Well, It needs some major hop-up parts and tuning to get it right. It felt to me a little like the F1 in the way the steering feel's. Hard to explain other than you feel like you have to turn before you get to the turn or else you'll miss the turn. Got it? Good cause I don't........:)
Anyway, the car look's great on the track, but can I get it to perform great? Again, it's all in the question of getting the right parts. I'm thinking torwards PN parts for their orange alloy. No matter what the color, I need it to perform as well as it looks.............

EMU
2008.10.26, 12:18 AM
The 934 is not an easy car to setup, but tires are really going to make or break in more than with longer lower CG cars.

The stock tires, trued down will work well for the front...

I am really considering setting one up... just for the fun of it.

marc
2008.10.26, 09:26 AM
I'm useing Atomic's RCP grip tires in the rear, 8* I think, and either 20* or 40* up front can't remember which. I am really like Atomic's these day's. Only issue is they are soft and need some proper tire-tape.
With all the advice you've been giving me EMU, I'd really like to see how you would build one. The MR15 is an entirely different beast than the MR02's! Alot more body roll with the 15.

ianc
2008.10.26, 01:40 PM
Emu is right; the tires are going to be critical.

For 86 mm on RCP, I like to start off by setting the front to be rather stiff, and the rear quite soft. Try the stock T plate. You can probably get away without a damper in the rear as well. The short wheelbase is a bit more unstable than longer cars, so you might want a bit of toe-in up front.

I like the super stick tires from Atomicmods for the rear (GPM's?), and the front is a balancing act, trying to find exactly the right compound. If you find something pretty close, you can adjust the front stiffness\height to fine tune.

I found that the stock fronts didn't give me enough turn in, so I went through a bunch of tires looking for just the right balance, and settled on the Atomic AW grooves in 10 degree. I had to narrow them slightly with an exacto blade however, since the MR02 chassis is wider than the 015. The thing is running on rails right now, and with my hand wound 35-turn, it really digs out of the hole.

I've become inspired by your 015 adventure however, and have appropriated a friend of mine's old unused 015 chassis. I recently grabbed a 935 body for it and will be setting that up shortly; should be a challenge. Keep us posted, and try not to worry too much about what color your parts are... :)

ianc

marc
2008.10.26, 05:49 PM
I've gotta pick the right parts for this project before I worry about color. Fortunetly, almost all companies have silver which goes with everything.
When my Dad's out of town this month, I'll be setting up my Mini96 again and continue driving the 934 in stock mode to get used to it. Then see about upgrades when budget allows.

Tjay
2008.11.01, 08:21 AM
I just got this body and would like to set one up for fun but I have few questions:

1. What DPS can we use for this 86mm set-up, 94mm dps?
2. Does that atm rear mount post hit the chassis? (looks like it from the pic)
3. Is there some type of modification needed for this body to fit the 02 chassis?

We are planning on probably having a race with the eco motor and 90mm body. I think this body is perfect for that motor. :) It should be fun!

Thanks in advance.

Cherub1m
2008.11.01, 09:37 AM
I just got this body and would like to set one up for fun but I have few questions:

1. What DPS can we use for this 86mm set-up, 94mm dps?
2. Does that atm rear mount post hit the chassis? (looks like it from the pic)
3. Is there some type of modification needed for this body to fit the 02 chassis?

We are planning on probably having a race with the eco motor and 90mm body. I think this body is perfect for that motor. :) It should be fun!

Thanks in advance.

Hi Tjay

What I used for mine was the PN rear motor mount (you could use the stock plastic motor mount), the kyosho RM damper system (the one with the damper plates not the one with the 3 shocks) also, I had to use a broken T plate (the side with 4 holes) to replace the triangular peace provided by the kyosho damper system that mounts the damper plates and rod to the motor mount. Also you will have to drill a small hole in the center of that broken T plate to mount the post. That worked good for me. I don't know if anyone makes a damper system for the 86mm set up (I am not sure if the 3racing damper can accommodate 86mm). Note, you might have to dremel a little were the rear wing is connected to the body to allow motor mount to travel without to much hindrance. If you use a 90mm chassis set up then you wont need to use the broken T plate modification, the Kyosho RM damper system works for both the 90 and 94mm

We ran a Porshe class (with MR015's) once at Maj's Hobby Shop at Saddle Brook NJ. It was fun, once set up right they handle pretty good for such a short wheel base car.

marc
2008.11.01, 10:40 AM
Hi there guy's. Would be cool to see a video of that Porsche race. To bad we only have the 934 and 935 to play with. Wish Kyosho would do the 944 and 928.
I do not want any kind of set up that would require me to modify the body.

Cherub1m
2008.11.01, 10:51 AM
I just got this body and would like to set one up for fun but I have few questions:

1. What DPS can we use for this 86mm set-up, 94mm dps?
2. Does that atm rear mount post hit the chassis? (looks like it from the pic)
3. Is there some type of modification needed for this body to fit the 02 chassis?

We are planning on probably having a race with the eco motor and 90mm body. I think this body is perfect for that motor. :) It should be fun!

Thanks in advance.

Hi Tjay

I just put my Porsche back together for some pics of the damper set up:D. First pic shows the system, second pic shows how much travel you can have.

Enjoy

Tjay
2008.11.01, 11:29 AM
Thanks Philip! On the pic above with ATM 90mm RM pod, it looks like you won't have to do any modification. Then again he doesn't have the dps on the car. I might try to fit the 94mm dps that I already have. If not, I'll order the kyosho one.

marc
2008.11.01, 12:47 PM
You might want to cut off the top of that screw where it sticks out above the disc-damper though. I dont' know how it fits in the body like that but trimming down will help, plus it'll look better too. Just my opn.

Cherub1m
2008.11.01, 05:33 PM
Thanks Philip! On the pic above with ATM 90mm RM pod, it looks like you won't have to do any modification. Then again he doesn't have the dps on the car. I might try to fit the 94mm dps that I already have. If not, I'll order the kyosho one.

You welcome. I don't know about the ATM 90mm but from looking at it I think its to close to the chassis and may not allow enough suspension travel. But judging from that ATM RM mount you could still use a broken T plate to allow more clearance. And yes you will need the dps especially if you put anything like a PN 70t motor and up. The RM's accelerate great but they can also have a vicious rear bounce, especially form the 86mm.

You might want to cut off the top of that screw where it sticks out above the disc-damper though. I dont' know how it fits in the body like that but trimming down will help, plus it'll look better too. Just my opn.

I normally run a top shock on this set up, because the RM set up has a tendency to bounce. So the extra screw space is room for the yellow kyosho top shock (I think its crucial to have the oil filled top shock for RM set up).

marc
2008.11.01, 05:55 PM
Gotcha. Yes, I noticed my 934 bounces alot on my RCP and wondering what parts will help smooth it out.

Cherub1m
2008.11.01, 09:12 PM
Gotcha. Yes, I noticed my 934 bounces alot on my RCP and wondering what parts will help smooth it out.

Hi marc

What helped me reduce the bounce (Note: reduce not eliminate:D) was the Kyosho yellow top shock and running only the top damper plate (no bottom plate; that was great advice from EMU). If your running an MR015 then tire choice is going to also be very crucial. Basially thin, very thin, banana skin thin:D. I found very thin kyosho 20 rear and very thin Atomic 40 grove (with no grove:D) work great. If running it on a MR02 then you got a much better range of choice. Only advantages of a RM is acceleration, and braking, that set up is like a dragster handle power very well and handles braking very well. Problem is the bounce and understeers on and off power.

Have fun

marc
2008.11.18, 03:34 PM
Project Update:

I recently purchased from Hobby Japan the smoked skeleton chassis which was labeled as being suitable for 2.4GHZ, so we're assuming it comes with the 2.4 cover.
Kyosho Titanium screws.
Kyosho suspension spacer setting set. "There's a mouthful."
and Advid ball bearings. I was going to go all Kyosho, but Kyosho-brand bearings are rediculously expensive, their like close to 40 bucks! So, I figured I go for Reflex's Advid's at 9 dollars a set!
And while cleaning out my junk yesterday, I found a nip PN Speedy 05 motor for it brand new! So that will be installed as well.
Will update pictures as soon as parts come in.

marc
2008.11.18, 10:23 PM
What does this mean exactly?
KYOSHO MINI-Z FRICTION DAMPER SET CARBON #MZW216 (FOR MR-015/MR-02)
MADE IN JAPAN

- This set cannot be used with the Ferrari F50 body for the MR-02 RML chassis, or with the body having the S-size wheel base.

Does this mean that Kyosho's disc-damper unit can not be used on the short 934 wheel base? Is that what they mean by S-size? I got this info from Toy East on ebay.

EMU
2008.11.18, 10:29 PM
S = 86mm
M = 90mm
L = 94mm
2L = 98mm
3L = 102mm
4L = 106mm

If you are using the Atomic 90mm motormount, it will work when set up at the M setting. The Atomic 90mm motormount uses a L damper setup while retaining the 90mm wheelbase. This was to use the Atomic RML damper setup with the 90mm RML bodies. All of this was explained earlier in the thread.

flat 4
2008.11.19, 09:31 AM
The 3racing disc damper system will fit MR15 (86). I just one on my 15i F1 Mclarern it took alittle while to set up. I'll find out how well it will do tell next week.

marc
2008.11.19, 10:30 AM
Thanks guy's, I was trying to keep this purely Kyosho but sounds like I can't use Kyosho's disc-damper on 934 as it's the shortest wheelbase. I'll look into the 3R one later.
Next I need to get the springs, oil-filled shock, differential, knuckles, and tie-rods.

marc
2008.11.20, 05:06 PM
Very minor update, I received my Advid bearings from Reflex today. Very nice bearings, car is soooo much smoother. I also had stashed away a PN SPeedy 05 motor which I installed as well. I set up my track again today and gave her a try. A bit faster with the PN motor, and much smoother and quieter with the new bearings. One thing I noticed between bearings and the stock plastic bushings is this. With the plastic bushings, particularly the ones for the front wheels, you can not tighten the wheel nut's all the way as the plastic will just lock into place and your wheels won't rotate. With the bearings, you can tighten the wheel nut's much, much tighter and the wheel's will spin much more freely! So, get rid of those plastic bushings! In my opionion, and I'm sure I'll be corrected on this, is the very first three upgrades on any car should be first bearings, then wheel nut's. Then tires.

EMU
2008.11.20, 05:22 PM
I dont consider tires an upgrade. As you change them regularly as they wear out. However, tires are the biggest tuning tool that there is on any RC car.

Do yourself a favor, try not to restrict yourself from specific parts. You will be restricting the performance. I mix and match parts all the time to get the most out of the car. Especially in the rear suspension. I could have an Atomic Damper post and discs, PN springs, Kyosho RM adapter, PN ML plate... I just use what works, regardless of how it looks (colors), if it works well... its there to stay.

Tjay
2008.11.20, 05:59 PM
I got my 86mm to work pretty good. I'll try to take some pics later...

marc
2008.11.20, 06:35 PM
Thank's guy's. I'm still waiting to arrive from Hobby Japan the smoked skeleton chassis, titanium screws and the Kyosho suspension setting set which is that thin peice of aluminum with the washers for the knuckles and the spacers for the H-plate. Interested in seeing how that will effect it.
I'm still not sure what to do for motor mount and disc-damper. Not even sure if I want to change those parts out any time soon.

marc
2008.11.22, 06:50 PM
The 934 MR15 is quite fun on my little track, but can't go full speed on it at all. My track is currently set up like this, pretty fun, but pretty tricky.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08437.jpg
Definetly not a fast track at all, If I want nice clean lines, I only use half throttle! Is it good to have speed, or just be able to have clean laps? Really hard to impossible to have both on this set up.
Just some cool pictures of 934 on track for yea. Nothing special.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08438.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08439.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08440.jpg
My favorite picture
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08441.jpg

Got a quick question. Is the 935 the same exact settings as the 934? How about the wheel offsets? I'm interested in the pure white 935.

EMU
2008.11.23, 12:56 AM
935 is much wider than the 934, on the 015; 2.5N/3W. For racing purposes, you can also shave the 935 out for a longer wheelbase ;) I am going to work on one for stock class racing...

I like the way those wheels look on that car Marc. I dont run alloy rims, but I am tempted by those pictures...

marc
2008.11.23, 10:01 AM
Thanks EMU, they seemed to be the most suitable wheels for the Porsche. These Team Atlis wheels are very light weight and seem to perform well. Plus, bearings are easy to put inplace. Some wheels have such a tight fit that bearings are an itch to put in, but these are nice and easy to assemble. I've also noticed that the front tires do NOT slide off on this durring racing! At least, not on my track, have yet taken it club racing.

marc
2008.11.23, 01:54 PM
Well, since you all liked the pictures so much, I made a video of the car on track. It is a bit bumpy up front and I think it's because with the stock king pin's and knuckles, the front suspension is pretty stiff. This has been the case with most of my cars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQyR7KJ_okE
Music is Ready, Set, Go by Paul Oakenford. You might recognize it from one of the Boren Supremecy movies.

EMU
2008.11.23, 11:40 PM
Looks like you started to get into the rhythem after a little while, tighter lines better apex's. Carrying more speed through the corners...

I think that the Speedy 05 is a good motor for that size track. I would personally use the 70t in a BB can.

Definitely invest in some kingpins at least...

marc
2008.11.25, 05:16 PM
Thank's EMU, I was useing what I had in my pile of stuff and I've always liked that motor as it works well on both small tracks and large tracks. What makes the difference is the type of batteries you use. Good high-power batteries can really make the car move and are some times too much for this tight track.
Anyway, some cool updates. I just got my package from Hobby Japan today and I'm very excited.
My gambel on ebay had payed off and the "suitable for ASF" is as it sais. On the surface, it look's like a regular AM type chassis.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08452.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08448.jpg
But look closer, and you can see a color-matching sticker covering the pre-made holes for 2.4.
However, remove that sticker, and you have the binding button access, and the computer cable access available already made for you. No modifications required. Plus! It comes with an ASF sticker!
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08449.jpg
Crystal cover!
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08450.jpg
And binding stick.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08451.jpg
My titanium screws, sorry pictures' not best.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08454.jpg
and suspension lowering kit.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08453.jpg
And Dad just arrived home from his long trip so will be back on line later. Will post pic's of the build later!

arch2b
2008.11.25, 07:26 PM
it's a nice looking 934 for sure :) nice track layout as well.

marc
2008.11.25, 09:19 PM
Thank's guy's. Next step is differential, king pins', knuckles, tie-rods, oil-filled shock, springs, and h-plates.

The track layout is fun to drive on and should be easy to repeat. But with Dad home again, track is put away. :(

Time to build!

ianc
2008.11.26, 09:52 AM
I've not seen that suspension lowering kit; MZW215.

What are those shims on the right? Do they go between the motor mount and the H-plate?

I assume the round ones on the left go on the kingpin.

How thick are they?

ianc

marc
2008.11.26, 04:49 PM
The round ones go on the kingpin's. These things are practically paper thin sheet of aluminum. Very, very easy to bend. In fact I accidently bent it while just opening the package! But fortunetly, still good enough to be used.
And to answer your other question, you can see the shiny metal peice here.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08459.jpg
The rest of the car completed. This is lowered with two set's of shims front and rear.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08460.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08461.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08463.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08464.jpg
ASF decal, computer plug,
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08465.jpg
Crystal plug!
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08466.jpg
Nice huh? :D

And yes...............I tested it and everything works!

okoye
2008.11.26, 04:50 PM
mount a body and lets see

marc
2008.11.26, 04:54 PM
Now that the main frame is done, soon time for upgrades!

marc
2008.11.26, 05:01 PM
Let's see if this is better picture than that blured one.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08469.jpg
Here is the belly of the beaut with the Porsche mounted.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08467.jpg
The lowering kit does not do much visually.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08468.jpg

kryten
2008.11.26, 05:03 PM
Looks good,nice job.Have you had it on the track yet? does it handle better for it?

marc
2008.11.26, 05:18 PM
Uh, with Dad home? No, track has been put away since day before. But as soon as he's out of town this Friday, it's going back up and we'll see if there's any improvments. I'm predicting nothing noticable.

marc
2008.11.26, 05:46 PM
Well, now that I've gone this far, what's next? Are the derlin collars for the springs worth getting? Thinking about getting those for smoother operation. And what about the combination with the stainless steal king-pins and knuckles?

EMU
2008.11.26, 09:26 PM
Yes, you can use it. You would need either the 3racing, or the Kawada RM dds. The kyosho RM will not work without modification. I can check when I get home what the damper plate position would have to be.

marc
2008.11.26, 09:47 PM
Sorry, I accidently deleted the post. This is the item EMU is answering too.
http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/shop2/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=2396
Thank you EMU, I think orange will really stand out well on this and I know useing PN parts will make it handle well. Handling first, then color choice I know, I know. But me being me, well, you know by now. LOL!
Anyway, I just sent an e-mail to Reflex to see what kind of package we can put together to finish this project with.
So far, I'm happy with what I've purchased and I apologize if I'm repeating my selfe alot here, but I just want to make sure I'm making the right choices before plunging head first. Yes I want the car to perform awesome, but I also want it to look killer too as it will spend half it's life sitting on the coffee table in the living room.

pfcparts
2008.11.26, 10:18 PM
Looks good marc.

Nice to see you taking time to research and somewhat
moving away from buying for looks. Hope you are
taking in consideration your budget as well.

Should have kept one of those t plates and used them
instead of buying a lowering set... :p

One of the knocks against that pn mount is that they
don't include the portion to connect to the shock.

The kawada dds may be the only mount with the
necessary hardware to use that PN mount. I know of
no shops here that carry them, and if you do go that
route some shops may carry the mount and not have the
kawada shock and vice versa lol.

The kawada shock is very well designed, but flawed; it
is very, very fragile. If you do get a kawada dds, it
might be a good idea to use a K oil shock. I do know if
you use the K shock with a kawada dds, it sits pretty high
so take that into consideration with the body you may be
using as well lol...

Do you need the delrin parts? I don't think so. I'd say
just sand down and polish a set of K kinpins and use the
stock set up. 0deg seems the best for the 15 and you
already have that stock lol. :p


parts

marc
2008.11.26, 11:42 PM
Thank's Parts! I don't think I'll be useing Kawada parts at all.
I am definetly considering my budget and looking at all possibilities. Which is one reason for the repetative questions and beginner-like questions and dumb questions and what not! LOL! Hopefully, the more I ask, the more money I'll save!
I've already got a good start with the chassis, but it needs those finishing parts and I'm loving the idea of PN's orange alloy. The orange really pop's out against the smoked chassis and I personally think will look right with the red Porsche.
As I said, since the car will be sitting on the coffee table for half it's life, it should look good! But since it's right now the ONLY car I have to run for home track and for club racing, it's gotta perform just as good if not better than it look's. So, that said, I'm going for PN.
I just really want to be sure I'm getting the RIGHT PN parts. Knuckles, tie-rods, et'c, I can figure that stuff out on my own. It's all these different motor mount's and disc-dampers that are so damn confusing. LOL!
Since this car will mostly be raced on my tight Mini96 at home, I need to set it up so. So, wouldnt' you want like +1 camber or more for the tighter tracks? The tire choice already makes it turn pretty fast. I just need even tighter "on the dime" turns and more consistant turn's. But I suppose practice equals consistancy.
When Dad leaves again this Friday, the track will be set up and I'll let you know if the "lowering kit" did any good. More I look at it, it does help visually. I think it's like each one of those shims gives it a scale drop of like 1mm. Something like that!
So yea, more I ask, hopefully more I'll save by purchasing the right stuff first time around! My budget depends upon my sales! So please, buy my stuff! :D

It's buying the wrong stuff is where you "waist" your money! :)

Cherub1m
2008.11.27, 09:16 AM
Yes, you can use it. You would need either the 3racing, or the Kawada RM dds. The kyosho RM will not work without modification. I can check when I get home what the damper plate position would have to be.

Hi marc

I use the Kyosho RM damper system (with small modification) for my Porsche. Here is the link to the picture. I had to use a broken T-plate(the larger side) and drill a small hole in the center to mount the top shock. And I also took EMU's advice on running only one top disk damper. Works great:D

Here is the link:

http://www.minizracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25837&d=1225554654

marc
2008.11.27, 09:26 AM
Thank's Cherub1m, but I dont' get it. Why only top disk? I thought the thing worked best with both? I thought it could ONLY work with both disks?
Anyway, I'm still unsure what to get.

marc
2008.11.27, 10:59 AM
Well, buying for look's is easy, buying for performance is tricky. I now know which motor mount I want to use. But, not sure on disc-damper and if it can use a top shock.
I had thought it would be similar to Kyosho's motor mount in that you mount the disc-damper base to the mount and go up from there. But appearantly not. From what I'm getting, the Kyosho disc-damper can not be used on 98, or S settings. So I'm still confused as to EXACTLY which disc-damper I should use. Would somebody please show me a link to the proper disc-damper for this motor mount? Thank you!

EMU
2008.11.27, 11:36 AM
Marc, I have a spare orange PN RM motormount (have blue and silver, so dont really need the orange one). I could work on a disc damper setup for you if you want... Let me know if you are interested.

marc
2008.11.27, 08:40 PM
Sure that would be great! Would love to get something set up for this project. I definetly want to go orange here. Thank you! :D
Please PM me with detail's and photo's!

arch2b
2008.11.27, 08:47 PM
i ahev and love the pn rm pod. ofcourse i got orange naturally and you'll love it.

marc
2008.11.27, 10:02 PM
I do love the orange. I've had it before on two previous AWD cars. It is a beautiful color and as I said before it really pop's out at yea when against the smoked chassis. I think orange is definetly the way to go with this project.
Fortunetly, PN is both form and function! I'm looking forward to this set up!

Tjay
2008.11.27, 10:17 PM
Here's my porsche!

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g10/Teejay_Cynthia/IMG_0496.jpg?t=1227845740

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g10/Teejay_Cynthia/IMG_0498.jpg?t=1227845773

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g10/Teejay_Cynthia/IMG_0499.jpg?t=1227845803

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g10/Teejay_Cynthia/IMG_0500.jpg?t=1227845833

EMU
2008.11.27, 10:40 PM
Looking good there Tjay. 90mm ATM mount, with RM DPS conversion, PN damper plate. Inch up rear wheels (K-20 slicks?).

Any specific reason for using the classic front wheels?

What t-plate are you using?

I notice the car is pitched forward, adds a little more front end bite?

Marc, this type of damper setup cannot be done with the PN mount. Only with the 90mm ATM mount. The only type of damper setup would be one that is on top of the t-plate screw holes like the pic below. That uses a 3Racing adapter, with PN 98mm damper plate. The one I would setup now would use the same 3Racing adapter, and would have an ML damper plate. Should work identically. (in picure is MR01 motormount, but would setup damper identically)
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25626&d=1223272718

Slipstream
2008.11.27, 11:00 PM
I've seen Tjay's car on the track and it's hooked up!

Tjay
2008.11.27, 11:35 PM
nice Willie! :D


Looking good there Tjay. 90mm ATM mount, with RM DPS conversion, PN damper plate. Inch up rear wheels (K-20 slicks?).

Any specific reason for using the classic front wheels?

What t-plate are you using?

I notice the car is pitched forward, adds a little more front end bite?

Almost got everything right except for the last one Eugene. :) It's not an inch ups. Those are just the regular delrin wheels I used at the Worlds. Yes, K-20's slicks.

Originally, I want the car to look good on the track and the stock wheels are perfect for it but the rear wheels are way too small that the motor rubs on the track.

PN soft T-plates.

You're right. RM tends to push and with the smaller wheel, low down springs it works great for off-throttle steering.

EMU
2008.11.27, 11:43 PM
They looked like inch ups compared to the front wheels :p I have to try the LM tires on the classic wheels for the front end sometime. To use a smaller diameter, with more sidewall bite than trueing down tires very thin...

Tjay, I just remembered that you wanted the setup for my PNWC 015, I changed it very slightly... but I will try to get some pics and write up the setup soon...

ianc
2008.11.28, 02:20 AM
Some nice pics prompted me to put up some of my own.

I've been back and forth with this thing. Originally it had an 02 chassis, then I tried it on an 015 chassis when I moved that 02 chassis to my 935, but was just really not happy with the performance. So, I bought another 02 chassis and small parts set for it, reconverted it and put the 015 chassis aside again.

I really like the Atomic mount, which has adjustable axle height and the mesh is pretty easy to set. I think it's a little different than the one you have Tjay. It seemed to lower the car much more with the 015 than with the 02 for some reason. I made a 1 mm shim for between the mount and the T plate, which you see here. The car is extremely low now, but still seems to have good suspension travel. I've yet to test it in this configuration, but will in the next few days. Can't say what it will be like...

The DPS is the 3R. I cut a bit of it off. I've not done a good job with it, I think. It works, but I've cut it off too short, so that it's too close to the chassis cover. I used a broken T plate on my 935, but didn't have one handy for this car, and didn't want to sacrifice a new one so used the stock v-mount. Stupid, I know...

What I would like to do is to find the proper-sized damper plate and revert to the broken T plate method. I have no idea what size to order however, so maybe somebody can help me: I've measured the distance between the two top mounting holes on the PCB cover and the rear shock center post, and I would need a damper plate about 23 mm long. Can anyone translate that to what wheelbase I should order for? EMU? :D

I found (to my cost) that the 934 body doesn't really work on the 02 chassis with the 02 front track width. Even with the -1 offset rims that I was using. At least not for me... I used a set of upper and lower tower bars from Atm to pull the front end in to 015 width. Hurt handling a little, but I'm not shedding tires any more either.

Marc, you could convert for ~$20... Here's a few pics:

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26138&d=1227860321

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26139&d=1227860339

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26140&d=1227860354

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26141&d=1227860398

ianc
2008.11.28, 03:10 AM
Ha! Here's my 'other' 934. Really. But it's on my last unretired 01 chassis! I use it for a warmup car. It actually goes quite well, but one does get used to brakes after having them for awhile.... :D

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26142&d=1227863327

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26143&d=1227863348

ianc

EMU
2008.11.28, 03:20 AM
Ianc, with the 90mm RM motormount, you would need a 102mm damper plate to have the damper post in line with the t-plate screws. You could also use the Kyosho LM rear end setup... 3Racing and Atomic also have LM damper setups. The 3Racing is relatively inexpensive (~$20). Also includes an oil shock. The ATM is about the same price, but only has the damper plate and plate-chassis mount.

The 102mm plate is difficult to use a top shock. You would have to be a little creative unless you go with the 3Racing route...

The LM setup will mount everything a little lower than the traditional damper plates, allowing more clearance (dont think its an issue with the 934) and lower CG.

3Racing:
http://www.******.com/catalog/rc-miniz-mr02mr015-3racing-rolling-damper-mr02lm-kz12wo-p-27624.html RC Mart
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info.php?cPath=51_98_119_199&products_id=4649
http://www.rcstation.com/product_info.php?products_id=6512
ATM:
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/mr02-dps-conversion-for-lm102mm-wb-p-2405.html

Marc, I have finished setting up the orange RM mount. I will try to get the pics up tomorrow. I test fit it on an empty MR02 chassis and it looked good to the eye. Preload was pretty even top/bottom. I set it up for use without a top shock. To use a top shock a couple small adjustments would need to be made.

marc
2008.11.28, 09:21 AM
The 934 seems to have alot of clearance inside it. I noticed when I tried mounting KITT on the MR15, his scanner circuitry interfeard with the top shock. However, the 934 look's like it's got plenty of room. Looking forward to pics!

EMU, if it work's great without the top shock, that would be awesome. However, I'm thinking MR15 chassis might need is as apposed to an MR02 which is lower and might not need it? Guessing here..............

marc
2008.11.28, 10:58 AM
Guy's, I appreciate your 934-5 pictures, but I'm really more interested in pictures of how you've set up MR15's as that's what I've got. I like the MR15 as it's sort of mix of old and new. Feels like MR01, but handles like MR02, sort of. :)
Anyway, I'd really appreciate more MR15 934 pic's.

marc
2008.11.28, 11:09 AM
I'm wondering if I should try my 934 on the smoother side of my RCP track. I find it almost too gripy on the rough side and I'd like to have a little bit of oversteer slide to it. Not really a drift, but not really ultra grip either. What do you think?
When I approach the turns, I throw it in reverse and add a quick flick of the steering wheel and all I get is what I call a breaking slide and it stops. I'd like for it to turn in more and complete the turn, but again without it really being a drift. Not sure if I'm making any sence here or not.

ianc
2008.11.28, 02:57 PM
EMU,

Thanks for the info! I was hoping to get just the damper plate alone, as I already have the springs, discs and center post. If 102 mm is correct (as it seems to be, since I measured a 98 mm damper plate I have and it came out to 19 mm between mounting holes and center post hole), then I'll probably just let it ride, or grab another of the 3R damper sets and modify it correctly this time...

Thanks again,

ianc

marc
2008.11.29, 05:48 PM
Well, I'm not sure but I think there is less body roll with the lowering kit. But I honestly can't tell. Maybe if I video tape it you guy's might see a difference from last vid?

marc
2008.12.02, 07:12 PM
Can I use the following items with the PN RM motor mount?

AR-033-B Atomic Mini-Z Damper Plate System for MR-02 RM $29.99 $29.99
AR-094 Atomic Mini-Z Optional Front Spring Perches (3.8/4.0/4.5mm) $2.99 $2.99
MZW203 Kyosho Stainless Steel Kingpins for Mini-Z MR-02 $6.00 $6.00
MZW214 Kyosho Mini-Z MR-02RM Carbon Fiber H-plates $16.00 $16.00
MR2058 PN Racing Mini-Z MR015/MR02 Front Racing Suspension Spring Set $5.99 $5.99
MR2090 PN Racing Mini-Z MR015/MR02 Lowered Front Racing Suspension Spring Set $5.99 $5.99
MR2045 PN Racing Ceramic Ball Diff for Mini-Z MR-02/MR-015

EMU
2008.12.02, 07:25 PM
Marc, I have the PN RM setup ready for you (mount and damper). I just need to take a pic when I get home. If you want it, shoot me a PM or email.

I would use MM t-plates instead of RM. The only time I use RM t-plates is for 94mm RM.

Everything else looks good.

lugnutz
2008.12.02, 09:17 PM
Marc, I have the PN RM setup ready for you (mount and damper). I just need to take a pic when I get home. If you want it, shoot me a PM or email.

I would use MM t-plates instead of RM. The only time I use RM t-plates is for 94mm RM.

Everything else looks good.

and we know how well that works :cool: thats how my car is setup and its awsome,especially with the Dino body

EMU
2008.12.03, 12:48 AM
That car is good Frank. Not necessarily my driving style, but thats a different story.

marc
2008.12.03, 01:43 PM
I just noticed something odd last night driving my Porsche. The throttle would cut out and then go again. Kind of weird as it wouldn't come to a dead stop, but as if a loose wire?
I do notice that the negative lead to the PCB board is loose, but I can't seem to tighten it further. Perhaps when I install the motor mount and disc damper I'll be able to fix that problem as well.
EMU, will this set up you have for me allow me to use the top shock? I like useing Kyosho's oil-filled shock on my cars.

EMU
2008.12.03, 05:12 PM
Yes, it will allow use of a top shock.

marc
2008.12.03, 05:43 PM
Cool, thank you! I think the top shock helps.

marc
2008.12.16, 06:37 PM
Nothing new yet. Still waiting on my GPM battery clips and the set up from EMU.

Skv012a
2008.12.17, 12:41 AM
Mind I steal the thread a lil marc? What would be a good setup for a speedy 934? I mostly have stock parts atm: front springs, CF H plates, metal kings, metal knuks.

My first and foremost question is- is there a metal multi-type motor mount (still available anywhere?)? I'd love to get outta the plastic ones, but I don't want to buy 10 of them.

Are there any disk shocks that do multi-length or are they all specific? How important are they? Whats a better one to get?

Any aluminum rims worth looking at? Is there any offset that would fit most bodies well?

Lastly, I noticed mention of alum battery covers and my question would be- can I glue plastic to them in any way?

EMU
2008.12.17, 01:04 AM
Mind I steal the thread a lil marc? What would be a good setup for a speedy 934? I mostly have stock parts atm: front springs, CF H plates, metal kings, metal knuks.

My first and foremost question is- is there a metal multi-type motor mount (still available anywhere?)? I'd love to get outta the plastic ones, but I don't want to buy 10 of them.

Are there any disk shocks that do multi-length or are they all specific? How important are they? Whats a better one to get?

Any aluminum rims worth looking at? Is there any offset that would fit most bodies well?

Lastly, I noticed mention of alum battery covers and my question would be- can I glue plastic to them in any way?
PN RM motormount, with 3Racing DDS. The 3Racing DDS is harder to come by now than it has been... but can accomodate every wheelbase.

I almost allways mix and match my dampers to best suit what I am trying to accomplish. I prefer the Fiberglass damper plates over the carbon fiber.

Skv012a
2008.12.17, 02:38 AM
Clould you please link/pm stores I can get these from?

marc
2008.12.17, 09:21 AM
Why would you want to glue plastic ontop of aluminum battery covers?
The point with the GPM battery covers is not only for bling, but supposedly a heat sink for the batteries which in theory keeps theme cool and last longer. But mostly for bling. I want to see if they can be re-anodized to match the PN orange.

Skv012a
2008.12.17, 04:20 PM
But where can I get the multi-length damper and that motor mount if 1 store with both exists?

marc
2009.01.06, 08:30 PM
Hi there. I received my PN motor mount and disc damper set up from EMU. Thank you very much kind sir! Much appreciated! I plan on installing it on my 934 and setting up my Mini96 some time either tomarrow or the next day after my Dad leaves for his trip for the weekend.
As the front end is completely stock, stock springs, knuckles, tie-rods, et'c, I'm not sure what to expect from this car's handling. I dont' know what to look for in improvements and I don't have any parts to change or fine-tune with.
This year is going to be completely different from previous years. Debt's absolutetly have to be taken care of, and a job must absolutely be found, in fact I have an interview this week, so wish me luck.
Basically, there will be no more Mini-Z buying for a long, long time unless I just purchase one part/month or something like that. Gotta be very skint on budget this year. Perhaps by Xmas of 09, thing's will be better!
So I thank you very, very much EMU for your kindness. Will report on the car's handling after I give it a few laps around the 96.

flat 4
2009.01.06, 10:35 PM
I have got kyosho red springs on the front of my altezza body(I race on a bumpy carpet track) and a disc-damper on the rear with no shock with a kyosho ball diff. As for my 934 is all stock with bearing for our stock class the car handles awsome. Good luck with your interview.

marc
2009.01.15, 03:26 PM
Got started on installing the motor mount I received from EMU. It's missing the washers that go ontop and hold the disc-damper plate onto the chassis. So for now, a picture of it in progress.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08544.jpg
I should be getting those washers from Kenon any day now!

EMU
2009.01.15, 07:12 PM
Make sure you mount the Damper plate in the front holes, so it is centered around the post.

marc
2009.01.15, 08:15 PM
Thank's EMU, I assumed I would mount theme on the rear holes. Thank's for the input. I'll check my mail tomarrow and see if those washers have come in. If they did, then I can finish her up.
What do you suggest for the front?
I was thinking of Atomic's derlin collars/limiters and some springs along with PN's orange 2 degree knuckles and a set of Kyosho tie-rods.

EMU
2009.01.16, 02:07 AM
I prefer the Atomic delrin limiters, but the Kyosho ones work fine. If you dont need much suspension travel, and arent lowering the car, then stick to the Kyoshos since the Atomics are shorter.

As for knuckles, I dont think you need that much camber on the 015. Only on the very large tracks with few tight corners and switchbacks should you use such high camber. I would stick with 1d for most tracks. I use .5d on my F355. I use the stock tie rod, works good, why change it. I have tried a little toe in (kyosho tie tie rod pack #2), and it makes it a little easier to drive but runs slower laps. What knuckles do you have now, the stock ones work very well for tight tracks like Mini-Tile, 2xwide L configs. Tires and springs make the biggest difference, then toe and camber.

marc
2009.01.16, 10:00 AM
Thank's EMU. Yes I've lowered the car with that Kyosho system, one reason why I was thinking of the derlin collars. Also, I've noticed that stock suspension up front is sometimes stiff. I'll also need to invest in some king pins.

ianc
2009.01.16, 10:06 AM
I prefer the Atomic delrin limiters, but the Kyosho ones work fine.

The Kyosho limiters generally seem to be too long (even the short ones) when you have the car lowered. Rather than buy new ones, I just file off the stockies until you get a mm or two of travel. Seems to work well, and is cheaper and faster too... :)

ianc

marc
2009.01.16, 01:20 PM
Thank's for the tip. But problem there is precision. In my opinion, it's much better getting something that's professionally machined than something you shaved off your selfe. That's just me though.................

ianc
2009.01.16, 01:27 PM
But problem there is precision. In my opinion, it's much better getting something that's professionally machined than something you shaved off your selfe

You can get it quite precise actually. I measure the height of mine with a digital micrometer to ensure they're both the same height when I'm done. Actually though, this is not a part for which a large degree of precision is important. You would only be touching when the suspension is bottomed out completely, which the goal is to avoid... Suit yourself though...

ianc

marc
2009.01.16, 03:42 PM
Thank's, I'll look into it!

marc
2009.01.16, 06:09 PM
Got the washers in the mail today! I was able to finish installing the disc-damper set up and mounted the plate in the front holes as EMU mentioned. Plenty of room for the top shock and seems to work great. Now I'm in the process of setting up my RCP track for the weekend and will test it out. Will report what I find with the new set up.
Pic's coming soon...................stay tuned!

marc
2009.01.16, 08:25 PM
...............................as promised!
Stock shock installed till I can afford a Kyosho oil-filled version.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08559.jpg
GPM battery clips
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08560.jpg
PN motor mount and disc damper set up thank's to EMU! Great guy!
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08561.jpg
RM h-plate, not sure which thickness or company, but works.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08562.jpg
Overall shot
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08563.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08564.jpg
Belly shot. The orange alloy look's really good with the Porsche's red.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08566.jpg

marc
2009.01.17, 10:57 AM
Just gave her a few lap's around the Mini96. The rear end seems more stable now, but not the front. Some how I need to get the front to match up with the rear so the entire car is tuned in.

flat 4
2009.01.17, 08:43 PM
Toe bar works wonders. I bought a set of the Kyosho plastic one's for my Alteza and it handles so much better

EMU
2009.01.18, 03:02 AM
Marc, looks nice and clean.

One suggestion, try running the Atomic Competition Slicks of the same hardness as the AW groove you are using. Should make the steering more progressive (less on/off, smoother).

Also, see if you have a t-plate holder for the chassis that doesnt have the little triangle on it. I think that may cause a little problem... Also, if I had known you needed kingpins, I would have included them with the damper/motormount. I have an extra set from a car that is decommissioned/stripped.

marc
2009.01.18, 12:53 PM
Hi there EMU, thank's for the tips. I do not have such a t-plate holder. I only have the stock one that comes with the car. The rear feels nice and solid, but the car feels unbalanced cause the front is now more bouncy than the rear!
I've placed an order for the following items.
Kyosho ball diff
PN low down front spring set
PN racing disc-damper spring set so I can fine-tune it.
PN 0.5 degree knuckles, "Orange of coarse"
Kyosho oil-filled top shock, "needs tuning springs"
Atomic front spring perches
and Kyosho stainless steel king pins.
Only question is, can I actually afford to purchase these items this week? It would be nice to have this car complete by then if possible.
I hope my choice of parts will work well together.
I've missed quite a few races end of 08 and I'd like to attend next week.

EMU
2009.01.18, 03:55 PM
I would have gotton the Atomic vII diff or the PN Ceramic diff over the Kyosho... less rebuilds in the long run. Both of the diffs above have D locking pressure plates, where the Kyosho does not, and the plates start to slip after a little while... Also, there is no modification needed to go to 64pitch, where you need to modify the Kyosho.

I personally do not feel the need to use an oil shock when using a disc damper. An F1 shock or Atomic top shock should work just as well, and be much lighter. Reducing the weight on top of the MR015 is important...

marc
2009.01.18, 06:43 PM
Can I use the stock top shock with the yellow, green, red springs? Would just changing out the springs alone make a difference? The other thing with the oil-filled shocks is they tend to leak and can cause a mess. So would be best to avoid that.

EMU
2009.01.18, 09:52 PM
Thats what I do... Just get a spring set, and you should be good.

Skv012a
2009.01.19, 12:23 AM
I'm now fully joining you guys! Decided to stick with 15 until I master the setup, tuning, and my technique before I step up to 02. Here's my latest cruise:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGMEauiKGxA

Via Tallgeese's, Ringer's, and Vazracer's advices I ordered 94 MM LCG mount, multi-length DDS, and that new h plate pad (for my own fun really).

Once I balance its flipping, I'll try to step up to taller bodies and see how they fare. Only real gripe now is that 90% of my fave cars are 90mm.

EMU
2009.01.19, 01:04 AM
Skv, you can use the 90mm bodies on a 94mm chassis by shaving the rear of the wheel well a few millemeters. I currently use the f355, which is a 90mm body.

The MR02 runs better with taller bodies, the MR015 runs better with lower bodies since it has higher CG already. I personally like the MR015 better than the MR02 for stock class racing... as do a few racers that I race with.

The Testerossa has a very long front overhang, with very little rear overhang. This makes it pretty sluggish on turn in. I noticed this in the video as well. When I look for a body, especially for the MR015, I try to find a body that has very little overhang in the front and rear.

I hate the McLaren F1, but for some reason I only like it on an MR015. There is something with that combination that just works well.

Lets not clutter this thread, but if you want some setup advice for your MR015, start another thread and I will try to see what I can do to help.

marc
2009.01.22, 07:43 PM
I got my package from Kenon today. Started building the front end of the chassis.
Actually, start with the back. The Kyosho ball diff is a great differential, I've always liked'em. Easy to adjust, and very smooth.
I have yet to install the oil-filled shock as I'll wait on that for later.
Right now, I'm having issues with the PN knuckles. It seems that their delrin collars that they have inside the knuckles are a damn-tight fit and impossible to fit the stock Kyosho king-pin's in. So, I can not install the knuckles as of yet. I'm hoping that the Kyosho stainless steal king-pins that I ordered from Reflex will be better. Any ideas?
I've also tried the white springs that came with the PN Low-down five spring set. The car's front suspension is very little and still stiff. I think that's why the car feels so bouncy. While the rear is nice, the front sucks.
I also got the PN disk-damper spring set. Any suggestions on those EMU? Or should I just stick with what you've installed?
Any ideas for the front? Will the stainless steal king-pin's fit the PN knuckles better, or do I need a different set of knuckles? I don't recall encountering this problem before. The fit was so damn tight, I almost couldn't get the king-pin back out of the delrin collar!

MINIz guy11
2009.01.22, 08:06 PM
Well, I would chuck the stock kingpins on a Dremel and sand off the coating Kyosho put on to prevent rust. Just take one of the smaller bit attacher (thing you put all the Dremel accesories on) and tighten the kingpin on that. Then take a piece of sandpaper and run it over the kingpin while spinning on the Dremel. This is sort-of a cheap fix, and will not be as smooth as the rear stainless steel ones, but will be pretty smooth after coated with some car wax.

Also, about your setup issues, why not test it out yourself. I'm pretty sure your "feeling" of the car would be much more valuable to yourself, than what people can advise you to do. There aren't that many spring setups to choose from anyway, a good hour should get you running fine.

pfcparts
2009.01.22, 08:58 PM
I think it was mentioned multiple times that
PN does that on purpose so you can
determine the fit yourself.

K's kingpins are generally the fattest, so
no, they won't fit.

I believe you need a 2mm bit to create a
decent sized opening for the kingpin.

The problem there is the possibility of making
your knuckle crooked or off a little (which I have
done), pulling out the delrin (ditto), and
bending the knuckle itself during work (ditto
again) lol.

Also, you can actually pull the bearing shaft
through the knuckle if your not careful, and
through general repeated use.

3r, K, or atm would have been a plug and play and
imo a better choice. Though with 15s, you don't really
need much camber, so stock knuckles wouldn't be
too bad to use.


parts

marc
2009.01.22, 09:36 PM
Thank's guy's. I was hoping to add some color to the front so we'll see what happens when I receive my package from Reflex. I had ordered from theme the Kyosho stainless steal king pins and the Atomic spring perches, or collars. I'm hoping the Kyosho stainless steal king pins will fit better. If not, sounds like I need to order the Kenon king-pins.
Will let you know how it goes tomarrow.
I had thought about drilling a larger hole through that white plastic in the PN knuckles, but I'm not very good at that and the drill would have to be a perfect size, and perfectly lined up. I'd probably make it alot worse than just leaving it alone. If the stainless steal King pins don't work, I'll go with the PN king pins.
The camber of the PN knuckles was only 0.5, which should be plenty for the MR15.
Will report back tomarrow.

marc
2009.01.25, 07:17 PM
Update:
The Kyosho stainless steal king pin's work a treat with KYOSHO knuckles, but without the PN knuckles. So I went ahead and placed an order for the PN king pins. Why? So that I can use my 0.5 camber ORANGE knuckles that's why. Two reasons, first, I wanted some camber up front, and two, I like the orange.
I also got the Atomic derlin collars, and I think they are very good. They feel nice and smooth and work well with the PN springs.
In the first picture, you can see the white Atomic derlin collars. Makes for smooth operation I think.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08619.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08621.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08623.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08625.jpg

I personally like the Kyosho ball differential. I find it very smooth and easy to adjust, plus it comes with spare parts for maintanance.
I think the car is looking pretty darn nice and handles my Mini96 very well. On my personal track, the car likes soft springs up front, and tight rear. Right now it's got the oil-filled rear shock on it, but I might switch back to stock shock when I receive the rear shock springs for it and see if I can play around with the settings.
The car feels a little bit more even now, but still needs some tuning. I will play around with the differnt H-plates and rear springs and see if I can get a solid feel all around.
I've yet to play with the gearing, I always leave that stock as it seems to be pretty good for all types of tracks.
I look forward to seeing this car complete with those ORANGE knuckles up front. I hope the Atomic derlin collars will work well with the PN king pin's.
I'd like to eventually replace these Team Atlis wheels for a set of Tagu Osains, but I've forgotten the offsets. I've checked with Atomic Mods wheel guide, but they've been wrong before. A while back I purchased a set of wheels for the Lamborghini Countach and the fronts were a tad too wide.

EMU
2009.01.25, 10:39 PM
Looking good there Marc.

Most of the data for the ASC's are from the datasheets. I personally see what works best under each particular body. The LP500 Countach has 1N/3W wheels, but I prefer 0N/1W. I find that the tires get thrown too easily with the stock wheel offsets.

Skv012a
2009.01.25, 11:20 PM
Quick Q marc, what motor mount are you using and what DDS can be used with it/which one do you have on? Also, would they accomodate 90mm base?

marc
2009.01.26, 10:26 AM
Quick Q marc, what motor mount are you using and what DDS can be used with it/which one do you have on? Also, would they accomodate 90mm base?

You'll have to ask EMU about that since he set it up for me a while back. I really like the set up and the car feels great!

flat 4
2009.01.26, 08:45 PM
marc, who makes the H plate you are using? Is it a MM plate? On my 934 it is set on the shortest setting as possible for the body to fit. BTW there is 3Racing RM motor pod that look like would really keep you motor cool, if that becomes an issue. Eny way Very nice project you have there. Have you had a chance to race it yet? My 934(all stock) dose a great job and can run down MR02's with out a problem.

EMU
2009.01.26, 11:47 PM
The t-plate he has installed above is PN SSG. The 3Racing mount is much heavier than both the PN and Atomic models. I dont think you want to add any more weight to the rear of the car...

marc
2009.01.27, 10:28 AM
Thank you EMU for shareing that info. Say, what's the difference between the three types of T-plates? We have the SSG, fiberglass, and carbon-fiber. I know the materials, but what are the advantages/disadvantages between the three types? Are they all three different types of thickness's? I know each type has three levels of thickness's, but does the material's thickness differ? It seems the fiberglass versions are more flexable than the other two type.

EMU
2009.01.27, 12:18 PM
Exactly, there are different hardnesses. Some material is softer than others. The hard FRP is softer than the soft Kyosho carbon. The PN SSG is a little harder than the FRP and has more bump stiffness (front to back), with less lateral stiffness. Each type if t-plate has advantages and weaknesses. I personally like the Kyosho carbon, and FRP depending on track conditions, body choice, and layout...

marc
2009.01.27, 12:50 PM
So in reality, we have 9 levels of thickness's when you consider three levels in each three types of materials. Cool!
I'll start playing around with the different plates to see if I can get the desired effect on the car. It still feels some what bouncy, but hard to tell if that's the car or the track. However, it is much better than when I first started building the car.
How can I get a little more slide in the rear end? It almost has to much grip. I think I'm useing 20 degree rear's, all tires are Atomics and I'm useing their RCP-grip tires. Not sure what my fronts are, but the front works well. It's just that I'd like to have a little more slide around the sharp turns so I can try and get faster lap times on the tight Mini96.

EMU
2009.01.27, 01:07 PM
Try a harder t-plate first... you can also combine the FRP t-plate with carbon ones... the PN SSG with the FRP isnt a bad combination...

marc
2009.01.27, 01:35 PM
Wouldn't combinding theme act like a spacer?

MINIz guy11
2009.01.27, 03:11 PM
It shouldn't. It would be similar to adding a thick T-Plate.

marc
2009.01.28, 04:59 PM
Then what would the purpose be then of adding two? Why not just the one thicker or stiffer peice?

marc
2009.01.28, 06:04 PM
I received the PN king-pin's today and so my knuckles are now mounted. Wow, what a visual difference. Have yet track-tested it, but I love the way it look's now. The knuckles are 0.5 camber so I shouldn't expect to much difference from stock performance, but perhaps tire-wear might be different?
Anyway, enjoy!
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08657.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08658.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/DSC08659.jpg

MINIz guy11
2009.01.28, 07:07 PM
Each T-Plate has different properties. A wide but thin one would give good roll resistance, but not great bump resistence. A thin but thick T-Plate wousl give good bump resistance but not good roll resistance. Adding 2 of opposite properties would give you one T-Plate that would be perfect, in theory.

marc
2009.01.29, 05:50 PM
This car's going up for sale. With classes starting, I wont' have time for it anymore and I'm after a new larger Ipod.
I'd like to thank EMU alot for helping out with this project, it was alot of fun to build and the car handles great! Thank you!

EMU
2009.01.29, 05:54 PM
Should have figured :rolleyes:

Just when you get the car to a point where it is finished being setup, you get rid of it.

marc
2009.01.29, 06:33 PM
Most of my enjoyment comes from building these cars. Racing get's dull after a while and running laps by yourselfe also get's dull after a while. I really do appreciate your help with it, and I doubt it'll sell at my asking price.
Yea, I always seem to build these big projects and then sell'em right afterwards. As I said, I enjoy building.........................................
Plus as I said, with school starting, I just won't have time for these Z's anymore.

If the car doesn't sell by this Sunday, I'll keep it.

flat 4
2009.01.29, 08:21 PM
I hope it dosent sell. Not being mean, but it took you a while to build it. I still regret selling My MA010....I see the car not being raced every week. Makes me alittle said. I had at least 3hrs in the build not to metion test and tune.

okoye
2009.01.29, 08:26 PM
marc wanna build my z for me lol

Skv012a
2009.01.29, 08:41 PM
This car's going up for sale. With classes starting, I wont' have time for it anymore and I'm after a new larger Ipod.
I'd like to thank EMU alot for helping out with this project, it was alot of fun to build and the car handles great! Thank you!

If it sells I hope you'll spend the money wiser than an ipod man. So many better players out. Think about a good phone + stereo bluetooth set as well, stuff is very convenient and addicting.

As far as your Ruf, I personally and noobishly starting to like my atomic mount better than my MM PN/your RM PN one because it much easier to adjust the pinion spacing on the atomic. Also seems like PN, having 2 "active" motor mount areas instead of 1, might crap out worse if screws ever loosen during a race.

marc
2009.01.29, 08:54 PM
I've got a very good Iphone and I love it. It does all I want it to do and it's simple. I have a 60GB Ipod and I use it every day. I've got about 40 GB's worth of movies, music, and photos on there and I enjoy the heck out of it. Like I said, 40GB's of movies, about 39 movies total so far. The thing I enjoy about the Ipod is I can build playlists containing movie trilogies, plug it into my tv, select the playlist, and watch all three Back To The Future movies in a row. It's so nice to have my entire movie collection on one tiny little hand held device and not having to swap out the DVD all the time. I also enjoy listening to my music while watching my photo's on the tv as well.
My current 60GB Ipod is full and I need more space for more music, movies and what not. I really truely want the larger 160GB Ipod.
With school starting, I see far less time with the Mini-Z's and I think the Ipod will be more usefull. I appreciate all your inputs and I do hope it sells, but if not I will certainly enjoy keeping it.
You've seen me build these amazing cars and selling theme off day's later time and time again. But like I said, for me most of the enjoyment is building theme. Buying a boring stock Z chassis, and turning it into something exciting! I am more about the build and display than truely all out racing. LOL! I wish I could work for Atomic Mods or similar buisness, but oh well.
And rememeber! I'm still working on my Koenig Specials Porsche C62 body which is turning out pretty well and I'm sure eventually I'll be building an MR02 LM chassis for it as well!

marc
2009.01.30, 02:53 PM
marc wanna build my z for me lol

Supply either the funds or the parts yea sure! :D
Guy's, I'm also interested in purchasing a brand new Dnano as well. I'm still trying to get my hands on the new white 911 GT3 Dnano. So, 934 funds will most likely go to that.

ianc
2009.01.30, 03:07 PM
Dude, you are mixed up. You change your mind every 3 seconds.

If you sell your 934 (at a loss no doubt), I hope you cut EMU in on the proceeds...

ianc

marc
2009.01.30, 04:41 PM
LOL! I'm not mixed up man, just have to really decide hard on what I want if my 934 even sells. And yes, I have thought about your suggestion.
It would be nice to have the money to buy whatever whenever. But since I don't, and my budget this year is very skint, I can only afford to spend whatever I make from sales, so I really have to decide what is more important.
Yes a larger Ipod would be usefull, but would it be as fun and awesome as a new Porsche 911 Dnano? I have to ask myselfe, what will I get more enjoyment from? After all, I can only spend money once, and once it's gone, it can't be spent again.
If EMU had any interest in purchasing my car, I would naturally give him a nice discount for his help in the project.
I've also been wanting this particular Dnano alot longer than a new Ipod too. Most likely I'll get the Dnano as I just love the little cars!

marc
2009.01.30, 05:14 PM
Hi there. Will the white/silver Porsche 911 GT3 fit this same set up? I'm sure the offsets are different, but what about the length?
And does anybody have one mint condition that they'd sell me?

marc
2009.01.30, 05:39 PM
Okay guy's you win. So much effort when into perfecting this beauty that I decided to keep it. As my budget will be very skint this year, it'll seem like forever before I can build another one. Plus with all of your help with suggestions and EMU's wonderful contribution, I just can't let it go. I'll keep this beauty even if I dont' have time to play with it anymore. It's certainly enjoyable to look at, and fun to drive when the time comes for it. So thank you all for your inputs on this project and I hope it's helped other people with same car as well. Would love to see photo's of other peoples 934-935 set up's on the MR15 chassis.
I am still wondering about the classic white/silver Porsche 911 GT3 body? I will eventually get the Dnano version and it would be fun to match like I did with the Modena's a while back.

For sale thread has been deleted.

flat 4
2009.01.30, 08:08 PM
Yeaa!! I am very gald to see that you are not selling you car. I hope you enjoy for a very long time. My MR15 934(vailant) is all stock, but I have been runing it for 2 years now. I love that little MR15 almost as much as 1970 beetle, I stop there befor I start to ramble(sorry). Who knows you might find some one to race with some day?

marc
2009.01.30, 09:09 PM
Well I do have a club to go to every other Saturday, I just haven't been most of the year. I might go on the 7th now that this car is all sorted out.
I'm still wanting the 911 Dnano, but it can wait. I'm probably going to replace the Team Atlis wheels for some Tagu's soon, or AVM's if I can get a hold of'em.
I really want to purchase their F-Spoke wheels in +1 offset's for the Porsche, but dont' know how to order off their web site as it's all in German. Plus, they NEVER reply to e-mails. So would like somebodies help in ordering these wheels for me.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/f-spoke.jpg

Skv012a
2009.01.30, 09:29 PM
As much as I want a dnano to mess with, I'd wait till the price goes down and it makes it stateside. 250+ for a tiny lil thing is hardly justified given its half as fun as a Z.

MINIz guy11
2009.01.30, 09:37 PM
Well I do have a club to go to every other Saturday, I just haven't been most of the year. I might go on the 7th now that this car is all sorted out.
I'm still wanting the 911 Dnano, but it can wait. I'm probably going to replace the Team Atlis wheels for some Tagu's soon, or AVM's if I can get a hold of'em.
I really want to purchase their F-Spoke wheels in +1 offset's for the Porsche, but dont' know how to order off their web site as it's all in German. Plus, they NEVER reply to e-mails. So would like somebodies help in ordering these wheels for me.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g184/marq74/f-spoke.jpg
Man...you move way too quick for yourself! First, you decided to sell it. Next, you decide to keep it. Now you are planning to further modify it, yet I still thought you wanted an iPod!

marc
2009.01.30, 10:19 PM
I still want a Dnano and an Ipod, but neither are worth giving up this baby. It costs to much money to fully hop-up a Mini-Z!
As for the Dnano, you can buy one for 175 dollars through EGR Mart now, but I hear yea. It's still not state-side.
Only mods I want I really dont' consider mods. Just swapping body and wheels. Everything else stay's the same.

Skv012a
2009.02.01, 10:30 PM
Say marc, did you add any ballast to that 934 or you cured body roll solely through suspension? 2.5 gram lead sheet on the front half of the belly of my 15 cured roll with stock/hfay motor, but I feel that its just too simple of a solution.

marc
2009.02.02, 10:17 AM
Hi there, my car seems to have very little body roll and it maybe due to the suspension and the fact that I lowered it with those Kyosho laser-cut spacers.
Then again, I've yet to take my car to the local club track which is much bigger and faster. Oviously the faster you go the more likely you are to flip. With the tight Mini96, I dont' think I go fast enough to notice such body rolls. Try getting that Kyosho laser-cut spacer kit to help lower your car. I think it helps.

Skv012a
2009.02.02, 11:25 AM
Also what front springs and H plate/damper springs are you using?

marc
2009.02.02, 12:07 PM
The car is set up with the PN low-down springs and Atomic derlin perches. I am useing the red springs which are the softest ones, not sure what perches I'm useing, and I'm useing a SSG T-plate but again not sure what thickness. Plus, I'm useing two set's of those Kyosho spacers I was mentioning earlier.

Skv012a
2009.02.02, 01:12 PM
But what springs above and below the disks on the damper system? I'm trying to learn how those affect the car's handling since I think I understand how H plates and front springs work.

marc
2009.02.02, 01:34 PM
Right now EMU had it set up with the red springs. I'm also learning what springs do what to the car in both front and rear.

EMU
2009.02.02, 04:12 PM
If you have some hop, try a harder spring on top. It will make the rear more planted, allowing you to use harder rear tires to rotate the car faster and still have good grip.

marc
2009.02.02, 05:26 PM
Thank's EMU!

Skv012a
2009.02.02, 10:06 PM
But with softer tires, softer top DDS spring? Also, what does the bottom one do?

ianc
2009.02.03, 03:45 PM
Change your mind (again) and decide to sell it again Marc?

Item 130285029730 on ebay?

ianc

marc
2009.02.03, 03:48 PM
Item removed, thank's for noticing that. It must've been left from previous listing and was not deleted as I had thought.:o

Skv012a
2009.02.03, 04:20 PM
Had Taco Bell order # 935 today for lunch, 1 digit off lol.

marc
2009.02.03, 05:01 PM
Hmmmmmm, I love their Crunchy Cheesy Gordita, or however you pronounce that delicious thing they bought back. You know, has a burito bread on the outside, melted cheese, then taco, then beef, lettuse, cheese, and sauce. My favorite!
Hope they decide to keep it as part of their daily menu!

marc
2009.02.04, 11:55 AM
Okay guy's. I'm really stuck here. I really truely want that new white 911 GT3 Dnano. However, I am flat broke. The only way I can afford one is by selling this chassis. What do you guy's think? Should I keep this chassis for as long as possible, or try and sell it for Dnano funds?
I had originally posted it for sale in order to get the larger Ipod, but that's not as important. I'm really truely after this Dnano. I think the Dnano would be way cooler to have and is alot more fun to drive on the tight Mini96 as I've stated before.
I feel like I've gotten grief from you guy's when I posted it for sale earlier. I know, I know, in reality it's my car and my decision, but you guy's have helped alot with this project and I dont' want to let you guy's down. Please give me some advice here.
I've got nothing else that I think I can sell and would be worth the price of a new Dnano. If any of you have a mint condition fully hopped up white 911 GT3 Dnano, I'd be happy to trade if interested. So please, what you guy's think I should do?

Yes, I do love this chassis alot and it's very cool to look at and alot of fun to drive.

ianc
2009.02.04, 12:02 PM
Hahaha! This is really cracking me up; the decision of the moment.

Marc, if you have limited funds, you've gotta get used to the idea that you can't have everything you want at one time. When you sell stuff constantly at a loss, you are in reality wasting what little money you have.

If you really want something, save for it, then buy it. My .02...

ianc

marc
2009.02.04, 12:10 PM
Thank's ianc, that thought is brewing in my mind. My only problem is patients, I have the hardest time waiting for something I really want, especially when funds are very limited. I also feel that once this car is sold, if sold, I'd miss it. So, that being said.......................
The Dnano will have to wait.

I've regreted alot of previous sells! My biggest regret was my GoldMember MR02 as that one simply can not be replaced. It took me over a year to gather up all the gold GPM alloy for it. And even back then the gold alloy was pretty rare to come by. Especially the complete package that built that MR02.

EMU
2009.02.04, 12:25 PM
If you dont work, I would suggest trying to find some sort of job to make money. You may not enjoy it, but we all have to do things we dont enjoy. Then you wouldnt have to sell anything to get something new.

marc
2009.02.04, 12:33 PM
Thank's EMU, I have tried job searching. But when you've got very little experience, it's tough to find work. Especially with the state of the economy these day's.
I'm just going to simply keep this MR15 and wait on the Dnano. Perhaps Dnano prices will go down in a few months as well.

Skv012a
2009.02.04, 12:51 PM
WHO do you have to race nanos with vs run Zs with? Nanos are still a horrible minority that lacks body selection, upgrades, etc. There's little to tune too that would even make a difference. I'll say it again dude, wait till we get them state side cheaper than 260. Then try some 10$ Die Casts to see how it affects performance, to possibly avoid 50$ ASCes.

marc
2009.02.04, 03:05 PM
I think I'll keep this guy and hold off on the Dnano.
Question, will the Toyota Altezza accomidate +1 offset and can I adjust this same chassis for the Altezza? I beleive the Altezza has a longer wheelbase.
I'm about to paint a white body Altezza and I'd like to use it.

marc
2009.02.04, 08:18 PM
Well, looks like my local club is racing this Saturday, the 7th. I will attempt to make it down there this time and see how the Porsche handles a larger faster track. Let's hope it doesn't flip!

flat 4
2009.02.04, 09:12 PM
I think I'll keep this guy and hold off on the Dnano.
Question, will the Toyota Altezza accomidate +1 offset and can I adjust this same chassis for the Altezza? I beleive the Altezza has a longer wheelbase.
I'm about to paint a white body Altezza and I'd like to use it.

I cant remeber what te ofset is. I am useing the stock wheels with some "spacers" to widen it out. I am also useing a 3Racing motor mount KZ-01SG/BL. It is a rear mount thats a mid mount as long as its a "long rear mount" this motor mount will work on the Altezza. Hope this helps.

EMU
2009.02.04, 10:47 PM
The Altezza will be able to fit 1N wheels up front. It is a 94mm setup, you would need either a different damper plate (Atomic 106mm damper plate, Kawada plate or 3Racing adjustable damper plate), or a different adapter (like Kyosho or Atomic RM conversion) to hold the post further forward).

marc
2009.02.05, 09:16 AM
Thank's guy's. I'll have to see how the Altezza turns out first. Will the chassis handle differently/better/worse with the Altezza versus the Porsche?

flat 4
2009.02.05, 06:09 PM
I am useing the 3Racing disc-damper on my Altezza. Kyosho soft springs up front and black on top and on bottem of the damper. I race on a less then pefect carpet track. This dose every well with this set-up.

marc
2009.02.06, 08:38 AM
Thank you flat 4. So far my metallic gray Altezza is looking pretty good! I find alot of the dark metallic colors easy to paint.

Skv012a
2009.02.09, 10:40 AM
So are you turning your 934 into Altezza or what? What was the length again, 94? If so, I'd just go with 94MM rather than shifting your RM setup.

marc
2009.02.09, 11:50 AM
I'm actually getting out of the Z's so I've listed it on ebay once again. I've sold my C62 project, and I'll be listing a few bodies soon. I just can't afford to go racing at the local club anymore and I've just lost interest in the Z's. Their too picky and difficult to set up with all the billions of options going around. I am done with Z's for now.................................

Skv012a
2009.02.09, 02:32 PM
Sux dood. At least you have the knowledge that will later save you time and $ if you pick these up again.

I'd just try drifting at home since you have a track, but its all your call. Try MR drifts with 40 slicks, it aint easy.

marc
2009.02.09, 02:52 PM
I'm keeping the track for the Dnano's I plan on collecting some time soon. I know I won't have anybody to race with, but that's okay.
I'm just tired and bored with the Z's, time to move on.......................
I thought about just collecting AutoScales, but there are some I'd like to find but would be difficult getting with my skint budget. I wouldn't want part of a set either. If your going to collect, you need the complete set!
So for now on, it's either Dnano's, and/or helicopters!

flat 4
2009.02.09, 06:39 PM
Wll sorry to hear you lost intrest in Z's but to each there own. I would reckomend that you keep at least one Z. That way there you have incase you feel the need for some Z action it will be there.

marc
2009.02.09, 06:43 PM
I suppose that's what the Dnano's will do. As a car guy, I'm not completely out of the RC cars, just the Z's. I don't want to deal with theme this year so I'm selling off what's left.

ianc
2009.02.10, 12:20 PM
Don't worry, tomorrow or next week you'll be back in them again.

Decision of the day...

ianc

Skv012a
2009.02.10, 12:41 PM
I suppose that's what the Dnano's will do. As a car guy, I'm not completely out of the RC cars, just the Z's. I don't want to deal with theme this year so I'm selling off what's left.

What theme dude? Also, I really don't see Nano as all that much aside from making cool die-cast bodies move around. Z tuning is at a peak due to size, but nanos are way too small.

Had you MA I'd say keep that since you can ourdoor or drift when track gets boring, but alas.

marc
2009.02.10, 02:49 PM
I have but three bodies left. My freshly finished gray Altezza, my Knight Rider kITT, and my MIB Mazda 787B. I have not yet decided on selling the Altezza, but the Mazda is listed, and I am definetly keeping KITT as I am a big fan of the classic Knight Rider series.
You may have noticed I changed my Avatar?

flat 4
2009.02.10, 10:06 PM
997 is it? Cant realy tell what trim package it has.