View Full Version : First Mini-Z monster - best upgrades for insane obstacles?

2008.09.17, 04:51 PM
Hi all! I'm completely new to this - got my first ever Mini-Z Monster today (my first RC vehicle ever in fact! I know!) - so please forgive any ridiculous questions. I'm keen to use it to do jumps, climb steep obstacles and generally be a bit of a beast, whilst remaining a good alrounder. Wheelies would be good too. Now, I'm not ready for soldering or anything that expert (unless you'd advise otherwise), but I am eager to get under the body and do some tinkering to get it performing brilliantly.

So I guess what I'm after is advice on what things I should do to make it a seriously kick-ass little machine for powering through difficult courses?

Also, if you're kind enough to offer some advice, please remember I know nothing about this stuff but am keen to learn, so any explanations of what your talking about and the genuine benefits are hugely appreciated.


2008.09.17, 05:41 PM
I'm assuming at the mo your's is completely stock?
The first upgrade you should get if you want to do jumps etc are alloy shock towers(the little plastic bars that the shocks mount to) and a full bearing kit will make everything run smoother(and hopefully increase battery times a little too).
I'm not sure how big your budget is so that's a start.
Also it's a good idea to use threadlock on any screws that go into alloy,as vibrations tend to work them loose otherwise.
Hope this helps and have fun!

2008.09.17, 05:46 PM
Hi Kryten. Thanks for the initial tips, that sounds like a good start to kick things off

Yep, it's completely stock. Let's assume money isn't an object.

Anymore tips hugely welcome. Keep 'em coming! :)

2008.09.17, 06:13 PM
Well here is mine,i only req the rear g/box casing in alloy and maybe the clear chassis.
The MZM was my first mini-z too:) as you can see there is a fair amount of alloy you can see there,the shocks are Kyosho oil filled(at nearly 20 a pair too expensive in my opinion i'd go for the GPM ones instead) and there's more you cant see inside the gearbox's.
If you want i can try to do a list of whats there.....but it's a long list! lol

2008.09.17, 07:01 PM
Well, if money's no object. First step I'd do is convert it to 2.4! Then do what Kryten sais by adding ball bearings and the alloy shock towers. a PN motor or any upgraded hot motor will do. Tires should be next too, if money isn't an issue, I'd get every tire that you can find so you can have options for different serfices. I dont' know if a rock-crawler type of truck can also pop wheelies or not as I dont have any experience in those. Certainly, a hotter motor will help with the wheelies. A GPM differential would be a nice upgrade as well.
For shocks, I'd go with Kyosho's oil-filled shocks. This way you can adjust damping by different oils as well as springs. I'd also get some derlin suspension arms and titanium suspension arm axles. Those are the pin's that go inside the battery box that hold the arms in place. From there it's pretty much up to you as for how much alloy you want to add to it. If you add too much alloy, it'll get heavy in which case you'll want to upgrade to a lithium battery pack for more punch. I assume by then you'll want to be upgrading the FET's as well.
There is a seller on ebay that has a nice collection of alloy parts for the Monster. I can find out his user name for you and put it here.

2008.09.17, 07:03 PM
Krtyen, what's with the purple shocks? I'd replace those with silver ones if you want an accent. Or gold. That seller I linked you too has gold ones which would look nice against the blue I think.

2008.09.18, 02:02 AM
That's awesome Kryten! Really inspiring, thanks. If you're happy to give all that extra info on the gearbox stuff that'd be brilliant. Appreciate all the help.

2008.09.18, 02:05 AM
And thanks Marc, that all sounds like great advice too! I'll definitely work my way through that stuff... even though I'm still trying to get my head around what the benefits are for some of the mods.

Any more for any more?

2008.09.18, 02:12 AM
On that notw, what's the benefit of the 2.4 upgrade. Sorry, still trying to understand, but be cool to know.

Actually on that topic (ish), is it normal that when I adjust the Throttle Trim I can make the buzzing noise go away, but when silent the wheels twitch slightly in neutral when the Monster is stationary?

2008.09.18, 05:34 AM
Alloy front servo/gear case,Blue
Alloy steering assy
Alloy 1* tie bar
Alloy 1*knuckles
Alloy front shock mount
Alloy rear shock mount
Alloy rear gearbox arm mount
Alloy rear gear cover
Alloy motor cap/heatsink
Alloy wheeliebar
Alloy front/rear lower arms
Alloy front bumper
Alloy ball diff
Titanium main gear
Kyosho oil filled shocks
Full ball bearing kit
Alloy 5 spoke wheels(blue and black)
Alloy wheel nuts
I have a rear gearbox on order.

Like i said before,i would go for the GPM shocks,as they can be oil filled too and cost a LOT less than Kyosho ones.
The 2.4 ghz conversion will eliminate glitching.i.e.the twitching you mentioned at standstill

@marc i couldn't get blue shock towers at the time,and i refuse to replace them now just so it's all blue!

2008.09.18, 08:30 AM
So how do I do the 2.4 conversion - is it reasonably simple? And what conversion kit would you recommend?

I'm gonna need tools aren't I... lots of tools :)

2008.09.18, 08:55 AM
Atomic do a multi tool(3-in-1) that will fit any screw on the car.You'll need the 2.4ghz conversion set with a TX(unless you have a TX that takes diff modules i.e.helios etc...) The wires on the 2.4 board will need extending to match the existing AM board's wires.Personally i found the mzm front gearbox/servo the most fiddly to fit.
Be carefull with using hotter motors on the mzm tho,as the gearing on it means you could fry the fets.The kyosho x-speed isnt a bad motor to use.I have one and it runs well.

2008.09.18, 09:32 AM
Cool, thanks. What motor would best suit what I'm after do you think?

Don't suppose you mind telling me how you did the front gearbox/servo too? I really appreciate the help man.

2008.09.18, 09:51 AM
Advantage to 2.4 is glitch free operation, and no more worrying about crystals when your with your friends who also have RC. 2.4 is auto select frequency which chooses at random a frequency that is available for use. 2.4 is also faster, respondes quicker, quicker steering, and just better over all technology. Plus, if you use the KT-18 2.4 transmitter, it's very light in the hands compared to the older transmitters.

Kryten, I understand not wanting pure blue which is why I suggested silver or gold. But if you like the purple, that's cool. As for that rear case to finish your ride, I showed you where to go so whenever you can, I'd get that quickly before he's sold out.

2008.09.18, 10:18 AM
I'm waiting for my guy over here to get them in stock,he's expecting del next week.

2008.09.20, 03:26 PM
Sorry, this will probably sound like a stupid question, but I looked at the 2.4 conversion kits and notice there are two types MR-02/MR-015 or MR-010. Which one do I need?... I'm assuming it's the MR02/MR015, is that right?

2008.09.20, 04:51 PM
Doesn't really matter,the only difference is the wire lengths.Pot,servo motor and power switch.