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maybelater30
2008.09.24, 12:20 PM
I just bought a Mr-015 mm, the 300c body. I was wondering if anybody knew what Fet came in it and if the Litium battery kit that is sold on ebay for the mr-02 will work in this car? thanks in advance.

EMU
2008.09.24, 12:28 PM
Lithium is a bad idea for these cars. If you want speed, use an Atomic Stock with a 10t pinion!

I believe that the fets are the 3004 fets, although I could be mistaken.

maybelater30
2008.09.24, 12:40 PM
Why is the lithium a bad idea. I was looking at the atomic built Element for a bit and it came with the Lithium?

ShortBus
2008.09.24, 02:55 PM
The Element is a MR-02 and not a MR-015.

marc
2008.09.27, 02:15 PM
The Atomic Built cars are specially built a certain way per car. The ones with lithiums are probably modified to withstand the lithium power. I dont' think lithium will work on a stock chassis/stock electronics. I think Atomic modifies the electronics for lithium usage.

EMU
2008.09.27, 02:52 PM
Lithium power really isnt needed. These cars go fast enough, even with the stock fets you can get some good motors like the Speedy 07 or Atomic Stock BB and they will go faster than you need them to.

Going extreme with Lithium will shorten the life of the car drastically for 2 reasons.
1. The electronics are designed for no more than 6v (4x 1.5v AAA Alkalines). Exceeding that, going up to 8v with a fully charged Lithium cell, takes its toll on the electronics. Mainly the steering gets glitchy, even when Lithium power is not on the car over time.

2. Damage. The cars are much faster, and as the speed increases, the ability to control them decreases exponentially. You will crash more often, and at higher speed. Causing much more damage than you would without the Lithium.

AtomicMods (the company that makes the AtomicBuilt cars) is different than Atomic (the parts manufacturer from HK), try to keep from mixing them up. AtomicMods should not be referred to as Atomic, it only adds to the confusion.

bermbuster
2008.09.27, 08:23 PM
I just bought a Mr-015 mm, the 300c body. I was wondering if anybody knew what Fet came in it and if the Litium battery kit that is sold on ebay for the mr-02 will work in this car? thanks in advance.

I believe the board in your car is the same as the nascar 015 stock board.
It has the less powerful FETs(3004) in it. The lithium battery will fry it faster than the deep fryer at McDonalds does French Fries....

flat 4
2008.09.27, 09:50 PM
Going extreme with Lithium will shorten the life of the car drastically for 2 reasons.
1. The electronics are designed for no more than 6v (4x 1.5v AAA Alkalines). Exceeding that, going up to 8v with a fully charged Lithium cell, takes its toll on the electronics. Mainly the steering gets glitchy, even when Lithium power is not on the car over time.



Back in the day we work over an 01 to use a 9V that car was freaky fast, I think it only lasted two races.........

maybelater30
2008.09.29, 06:34 PM
Than ks for all the help guys. I have done some more research and started modding the car. I am not doing lithium! I bought the Damping plate system, springs, knuckles, Speedy 07 motor, R1 works batteries, Bearings, Upgrading the FET's (2x1 for now), M3 body and 20 degree tires. I think this is a good start. I only race some other guys at my dealership in the garage when things are slow, we aren't to serious.

imxlr8ed
2008.09.29, 08:58 PM
Now you're talkin'. Parts are the way to go... nobody I know of runs lithium except for one local Xmodder a few years back. Even with the Lithium, my Xmod still outran his. The BMW isn't a bad choice, I've had one as a beater for a while now, but it does limit you to a narrower offset up front. If you're going to stick with it, I'd recommend a tower bar for the front. I went through 3 chassis' for that car since I've had it, but the tower bar prevents that now.

I wish I had these cars back when I used to sell... would've made the time go by much faster on those rainy days.

EMU
2008.09.30, 02:58 AM
Ed, remember that he is using an 015, so no tower bar needed. 1 or 1.5mm offset front wheels should be good as far as clearance is concerned.

maybelater30
2008.09.30, 06:46 PM
Now you're talkin'. Parts are the way to go... nobody I know of runs lithium except for one local Xmodder a few years back. Even with the Lithium, my Xmod still outran his. The BMW isn't a bad choice, I've had one as a beater for a while now, but it does limit you to a narrower offset up front. If you're going to stick with it, I'd recommend a tower bar for the front. I went through 3 chassis' for that car since I've had it, but the tower bar prevents that now.

I wish I had these cars back when I used to sell... would've made the time go by much faster on those rainy days.


It does make rainy days allot more fun!!

maybelater30
2008.10.01, 08:59 PM
The back end comes around really easy, How can I prevent this? I have not put on the softer tires or knuckles as of yet. I have the hard front springs and the damper plate with the springs that came with it.

EMU
2008.10.02, 01:39 AM
What surface are you driving on? Try using softer rear tires and/or softer t-plate.

maybelater30
2008.10.02, 09:37 AM
I do have some atomic 20 degree tires I still need to put on. We are running on a un-painted cement shop floor.

EMU
2008.10.02, 12:06 PM
Try the Atomic AW 30d tread in the rear. Radial tires should grip the cement better than slicks... Try searching here for cement or concrete setups to see what works for them. Take in mind that each individual surface has different grip characteristics.

maybelater30
2008.10.02, 08:14 PM
Thanks Emu, I have the Atomic AW 20d in the rear on a wide wheel (bmw m3 body) I tried it today and it was better...still a little looser then what I want but better. I'm going to do some searches for set-ups

flat 4
2008.10.02, 08:45 PM
I ran M3 acouple of times last season and the back end dose come around pretty quick. I'm going to run it agein this season but I'm very hopeful about it thoe. Becouse of the same reson.

maybelater30
2008.10.06, 10:43 AM
would the addition of an aluminium motor mount (not the light version) help weight down the back end and help keep it from coming around?

marc
2008.10.06, 12:40 PM
AtomicMods (the company that makes the AtomicBuilt cars) is different than Atomic (the parts manufacturer from HK), try to keep from mixing them up. AtomicMods should not be referred to as Atomic, it only adds to the confusion.[/QUOTE]



When I mentioned Atomic, I was shortening AtomicMods. Sorry for the confusion, next time I'll shorten by useing A.M. OR A.M for AtomicMods and A.P. for Atomic Products?

EMU
2008.10.06, 01:23 PM
would the addition of an aluminium motor mount (not the light version) help weight down the back end and help keep it from coming around?
When is the rear coming around? If it is off throttle, adding weight in the rear will make it come around more as you coast into a corner. And the car will push much more as you get on throttle. With an RM setup, you have to enter a corner with a little throttle, but you cant open the throttle fully until you are at the apex of the corner, and know that you wont have to come off the throttle until the braking zone on the next corner.

maybelater30
2008.10.06, 01:53 PM
Emu, it's coming around on throttle after apex, it's also a MM not a RM.

EMU
2008.10.06, 02:07 PM
Try using a softer t-plate. Are you using a Disc damper, try a harder spring above the top disc if you are. What differential are you using? If it is a stock gear diff, you may want to open it up and pack some grease in it... Keeping it from unloading as easily.

maybelater30
2008.10.06, 02:30 PM
I am using the DPS and have differnt springs on order for it. I am using the stock Diff as of know but, was thinking about ordering the Atomic one with the 43 tooth spur. I'll try opening up the diff and packing it for now and some different spring set-ps when they get here.

EMU
2008.10.06, 11:41 PM
I would only get the Atomic vII ball diff if you have an alloy motormount that you can fine tune the gear mesh. The stock spur is a 44t spur, and while the 43t is a small difference, it will not mesh well in the stock motormount. You could allways get another spur gear for the Atomic diff, I would recommend the PN 44t spur with bearing. There is less binding than the the Atomic spur, and it will mesh better. For the standard pitch, the PN Pro Match pinions mesh the best and are very smooth/quiet.