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View Full Version : Got Chrysler 300C Readyset, any advises?


Skv012a
2008.11.28, 03:29 AM
Hey guys, just getting into Zs with that set as my first. Any good or bad sides to it? Any upgrades I should get off-the-batt or just play around with it first? Also, any extra parts needed to change body length? Motor configuration?

MantisMMA
2008.11.28, 11:13 AM
reflex bearings, and some good batteries is all you really need. if you start wanting more power go with an Xspeed and call it a day.....enjoy!! im not familiar with the 300 but im sure it has a high center of gravity and long wheel base so if you were gonna start actually competing your gonna want a race worthy body and the best beginner body(and some advanced!!) is the ENZO and dont forget to get tires when you order the body.kyosho 30 fronts and 20 rears is a good starting point. they are a blast and get very addicting!!

EMU
2008.11.28, 03:01 PM
For an Mr015 chassis, the Chrysler is one of the better MR015 specific bodies (will not fit on an MR02 without modifications to the MR02 or the body). We run an MR015 class, and the 300c has won quite a few championships. It carries a lot of speed through the corners.

I would suggest removing the glass from the body, and cutting away the upper part of the glass that you do not see from the outside. This will make it roll over less. For tires, I would suggest 40d Narrow Atomic slicks for RCP, with PN 8d radials in the rear (or Reflex SSGs). You can fit the rear with wide tires if you shave away a little of the wheel well. Just make sure that nothing rubs on the body when the suspension is articulated.

If you want to use a 94mm body, then I would suggest you get a 94mm MM motormount. The PN LCG 94 mount is VERY good, but has one flaw. The damper arm screw was too high. You can modify the mount, do a search for the mount in the forums here to find out more about it. If you dont go with the PN mount, then you would need to go with the Atomic V5 94mm mount. It has adjustable diff height like the PN mount, but uses a different kind of damper post mount. Wiring is a little more difficult with this mount. Both of these mounts will need a motor that screws into the mount (non Kyosho motor). I would recommend the PN 70t.

For a damper, I would recommend the PN ML. It is easy to setup, and will work with 94/98mm setups. You can also add the stock top shock on top... Combined with some Kyosho Carbon t-plates...

For the front end, you can really just get away with only changing the kingpins and springs. I would recommend Kyosho SS kingpins, and PN spring set.

Our MR015 class cars can only use the PN 70t, and we turn about the same amount of laps and close to the same laptimes. MR02 class is basically 'pro-stock', using up to Speedy 07bb or Atomic Stock. The MR015 is competetive chassis, and the chrysler is a good body choice to set up to make it raceworthy.

I allways recommend someone new to Mini-Z to start with the MR015 chassis, as they will learn much more about how to get a competetive setup than if they were to start with an MR02. With an MR02, its much harder to see a difference between a setup that is good, and setup that is poor. It is easier to see that on the MR015. The car will either flip, or push. You dont need as much front grip on the MR015 as you do on the MR02, since there is more chassis roll due to the higher CG. The car rotates well in the corners, where the MR02 will push a bit more.

flat 4
2008.11.28, 10:03 PM
EMU, is there eny thing you dont know about mini-z's?:)

Skv012a
2008.11.29, 01:20 AM
Very nice heads up, much appreciated. Another question would be if its possible to attach shorter bodies to this that require 90 wheel base? Also, does each wheel base length require its own motor mount or just MM or MR motor setup? I actually wanted to stick a Trueno on this chassis or a FD rather than the Chrysler. You can't beat a $60 price for a mib Mini-Z, so the difference between retail will go first and foremost into a body of choice and then, like you guys said, minor upgrades.

Last question is, when changing wheel bases, what are the parts involved that MUST be matched to new length?

EMU
2008.11.29, 02:05 AM
EMU, is there eny thing you dont know about mini-z's?:)
Theres a lot that I dont know about Z's. I learn everyday, and adapt my setups differently. Racing conditions are allways changing, as is the competition. I race with almost a new car setup every week.

Some is to change to a setup that suits the track layout better. Others are just to try different ideas. Poeple often comment that I would be much better if I would stick to one setup, but the truth is, most of my setups are competetive. I just try to learn more every race. If I dont learn anything in a race night, I dont have anything to work on preparing for the next race. I test new bodies all the time, especially in 015 class.
Very nice heads up, much appreciated. Another question would be if its possible to attach shorter bodies to this that require 90 wheel base? Also, does each wheel base length require its own motor mount or just MM or MR motor setup? I actually wanted to stick a Trueno on this chassis or a FD rather than the Chrysler. You can't beat a $60 price for a mib Mini-Z, so the difference between retail will go first and foremost into a body of choice and then, like you guys said, minor upgrades.

Last question is, when changing wheel bases, what are the parts involved that MUST be matched to new length?

90mm must use an RM mount. I often take 90mm bodies, and shave the wheel wells for 94mm wheelbase and run them MM. For MR02, I like the F40 which is 90mm, in 94mm MM. For the MR015, I am going to try the f355 (90mm body) in 94mm MM. I dont make many chassis adjustments, just try the bodies to see how they effect the chassis balance, then adjust tires from there. With the MR015, as with MR02 but moreso with the MR015, tires are the most important thing to how the car performs.

When you use a 94MM mount, to switch to 98MM, using the PN ML damper you only need to move the damper plate to the forward position. The ML damper can work with 94 and 98mm MM setups.

90RM and 94RM with the Atomic RM conversion on stock RM mounts as well as PN and Atomic aftermarket mounts will work with the PN ML damper setup as well.

A 98MM mount, cannot be adjusted to 94MM. These have CG advantage to the 94MM mounts, but have more restriction to what bodies can be used without modification.

With the MR015 chassis, more than the MR02, you want to look for low CG , light weight bodies. On an MR02 I like higher CG bodies, on an MR015 I like low CG bodies. An MR015 chassis has higher CG already due to the battery layout, but has a centrally located mass, so the chassis will lean more in a corner but also rotate very well. An MR015 can get away with using harder front end setup (tires and springs), and corner just as well as an MR02 with a softer front setup.

You can try the F50, that has proven to be a good body on the MR015. Light bodies work better than the heavy ones. If there is no minimum weight at the races, the MR015 is lighter than the MR02. I had to add a lot of weight to my PNWC MR015 McLaren. I finished B4, but was the only MR015 chassis running with the MR02s.

I would also try to avoid running anything wider than 2mm offset in the front. I prefer 1mm. Narrow MR02 bodies with short overhangs work best.

Skv012a
2008.11.29, 02:36 AM
Once again thanks. CG isn't my #1 concern right now, since I'm just getting started, but fitting bodies is. I can always add some balasts to counter high CG due to the chassis design and/or body of choice for the time being. If I move it up to a MR02 conversion, I'll probably just get all the necessary parts to make any engine and length setup, but that can wait for a bit.

Ah one more thing- is drifting even possible with this guy or should I forget about it until I get enough $ and will for MA-01?

EMU
2008.11.29, 02:41 AM
Drifting requires a completely different setup than a racing setup. It is possible, but is VERY difficult, even with a good drifting setup. The drifts have a much smaller angle than the AWD drifter would have.

Skv012a
2008.12.04, 08:00 PM
Finally got it, metal kingpins, blue nylon wheel nuts, and a clean RX7 bod. Love it all, truly quality stuff from every angle. Ordered MR and high motor mounts and 02 cradle + small parts today to have the option of either setup and any length. Once that stuff comes, I'll have some RX7 fun :)