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blt456
2008.12.18, 09:43 PM
Hi all,
I just built this mr02, and noticed I have a lot of rear droop. When I set the chassis down, the chassis clears ~2mm, and has about 2mm of suspension action before the chassis it touching my table.

I've read a few thing but I've seen other people's setups with this motor mount (new PN lcg mount) and they run PN red springs.

I am running PN green bottom and red top, I was thinking the bottom purple spring. My dps looks like this when the t-plate is straight and not sagging. The front part of my bottom disk touched the plate, but not the rear part of the disk. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_1950.jpg

color01
2008.12.18, 11:27 PM
Is your disk damper plate supposed to be mounted up so high? Your red spring would be overly compressed if you turned the screw in all the way, wouldn't it?

hpgod
2008.12.19, 07:57 AM
you look to have a atomic disk damper spacer under the disk damper on the chasis.

When I run that part I add a spacer/many washers under the disk damper post to raise it up also. I think I use a longer screw also on the post bottom.

hrdrvr
2008.12.19, 08:21 AM
I agree with hpgod. Your bottom disc isnt even pressed against anything. Youd have to have some major action, just to gt it to touch the main plate. Either raise the post more, or try a thinner spacer under the main plate.

yasuji
2008.12.19, 01:17 PM
it doesnt matter which spacer you use under the dps plate...the dps arm on the mtr mt is adjustable.... u should loosten the dps arm on the mtr mt and run the top screw all the way in till lightly seated....allowing the arm to float in to a neutral pos. then tighten down the arm

atallfunguy
2008.12.29, 10:21 AM
yup.. What grant said !

EMU
2008.12.29, 01:24 PM
Well, with my dps (same one as pictured) I have a large amount of space between the top of the spring and the washer. I was thinking a smaller screw, and tried.

My issue with that was the screw would just undo itself (by hand) but doesn't seem safe. I am running the newest PN mount (this is the same car as pictured above) and the bottom screw is really short. I was planning on buying some button-head screws from pn for my cars but wanted to know if anyone has any suggestions.
I allways use a small drop of threadlock on screws that go into metal. Vibration tends to loosen them up, and they will back out. This goes especially for the damper and t-plate screws in the motormounts. Try not to overtighten the screws to have them hold, this will strip the screw holes.

yasuji
2008.12.29, 02:21 PM
Well, with my dps (same one as pictured) I have a large amount of space between the top of the spring and the washer. I was thinking a smaller screw, and tried.

My issue with that was the screw would just undo itself (by hand) but doesn't seem safe. I am running the newest PN mount (this is the same car as pictured above) and the bottom screw is really short. I was planning on buying some button-head screws from pn for my cars but wanted to know if anyone has any suggestions.

i always use the shortest pn ti screws i can find when going in to aluminum ;)

yasuji
2008.12.29, 02:51 PM
After the threadlocking on the screw..... the forward movement seems to be really bad.. worse than my old 94mm midmount car. I can get a video if needed

it may be possible that this PN mtr mt does not need or work with the ATM spacer....try it with the std dps spacer.....shouldnt make a diff on spacing but t may make a diff in leverage ratio....the farther away from the pivot point makes a the dps travel more;)

Ibrake Ifry
2008.12.30, 01:01 AM
If you are having problems with this damper i would suggest few things. first, check to see if the arm holding the damper post is straight. then switch to the black spacer(that holds the bearings/rear axle) that raises the motor mount all the way if you are using normal springs or the second highest position if you are using pn drop down springs. I also agree with grant to adjust the arm so that the post is in the middle of the damper plate. I have used the atomic spacer in my cars and i find that you just need to raise the arm up so that both springs are even. if you still have a problem with droop you can either use a harder spring on the botttom, raise the damper post arm a little to stiffen the bottom spring, or use a harder h-plate.

if the arm that holds the damper plate keeps moving try a dab of crazy glue. The best method, is you can thread a long screw from the opposite end and then use a locknut on the outside were you normally would put the screw. I don't have any pictures of it atm but if you would like i could post some.

Ibrake Ifry
2008.12.30, 09:41 AM
I have seen that arm move on a lot of people's motor mounts although if you crank that screw down with threadlocker, like you said, it definately helps keep it in place. The reason i like using the locknut though, is so that it is easily adjustable.

i personally like to run the highest setting on the rear axle so that the cars chassis runs parrallel to the ground with batteries in it. Dialing a little bit of droop is good since it keeps your car planted during bumps in the track but you want to make sure your chassis is level. If you are running the motor mount at a lower setting with normal springs you might notice that when the car has batteries in it the car looks slanted towards the rear.