View Full Version : Project Battle Machine

2009.01.29, 09:11 PM
Suppose this may end up in the same bowl as Marc's Ruf, but I just want to start my own thread since I'll be working on this project from here on out.

Idea is to use a street 90mm body like FD, 86, maybe FC, maybe S2000 and create a sleeper to stand up to the 94-98 supercars. This may be more than I can handle at my current level, but at least I'll have a goal to work towards in my racing career.

So my choice is MR15 due to handling difficulty and extra setup required to battle body roll to force myself to learn everything there is about Z tuning and driving.

After thoroughly abusing stock mounts, I realized that the DDS was my absolutely #1 step, so I got PN LCG MM mount and their MM DDS. That setup worked extremely well, so I decided to apply it to RM. Via EMU's advice I got Atomic 90mm RM DPS mount and RM DPS Conversion set to adapt my $20 PN system to new config. It worked out well considering I had to tinker with it a little bit.

Next was trying out -1 rears to squeeze them inside the narrow bodies I plan to use and that worked out perfectly as well.

So here's where my 15 stands right now:



2009.01.29, 09:14 PM
my damn watanabe's on the front lol

i wanna see where my cars sister ends up

2009.01.29, 09:30 PM
Hi there, what are those red discs on the top/rear part of the chassis? I dont' recognize theme.

2009.01.29, 09:54 PM
Legos for my custom mount idea that'll have to be on hold since I found something better to do with the chassis. Dead weight for the time being.

flat 4
2009.01.31, 09:01 PM
My MR15w/alteza body I use a 3Racing KZ-01/SG/BL its a great motor mount. The fun part about this mount is that it acts like a mid mount (the motor is in front of the axl) but it lets you use a 98mm body. I also use there disc-dampner system as well. I do have an oil fild but I do not use it becouse I race on a bumpy carpet track.

2009.01.31, 09:26 PM
My MR15w/alteza body I use a 3Racing KZ-01/SG/BL its a great motor mount. The fun part about this mount is that it acts like a mid mount (the motor is in front of the axl) but it lets you use a 98mm body. I also use there disc-dampner system as well. I do have an oil fild but I do not use it becouse I race on a bumpy carpet track.

I have PN LCG thats Midship 94mm, but thats too long for this project.

Here's the update on this: Hfay race 1- in my C main, scored 2nd place clockwise and 3rd counter clockwise. I almost had Arch in the CW race if it wasn't for last-minute body clip>battery holder jam. That said, I think it was a successful day one for my 86.

I couldn't push it 100% because it did pull a flipper on me after long straights, so I'll have to fine-tune everything and try again. Tomorrow I will try to muster Speedy 07 and possibly try 1 degree camber up front to keep the steering sharp and be able to use hard springs to avoid rolling. Might try to stick the rear shock with a hard spring on as well to see if it would help any.

Lastly Ill post the vid of hfay #1 tomorrow due to being a dumb455 and forgetting my cam @ the race - -"


2009.02.22, 06:02 PM
Ok ladies and gents who care or dont care about this project, stage 1 tuning is now 100% complete!


Square area under lead tape on the belly thats under the servo was removed with tape doubling as gunk cover now. Front third inner wall of battery trays removed as well.

Mildly drilled MR-015: -1.5 grams
HFAY S7 Motor
PN Derlin 9T pinion
PN 6 wide rears/PN dish wide -1 rears
PN 8 narrow fronts/Watanabe narrow 0 fronts
PN Multi Length graphite DDS
custom styrene DDS mounting pad
Atomic 90mm RM DPS mount
Atomic RM DPS triangle adapter
Kyo carbon H-plate: medium (or soft, forgot)
Kyo 0 alum knuckles
PN alum cups: reds
PN Low Down springs: purple(soft)
3M lead tape piece: +3 grams
Kyo blue nylon threaded nuts

2009.02.22, 07:29 PM
looks awesome!
do you do alot of drifting with your car?
I'm looking into setting me car up for that.
this stuff is adictive!

2009.02.22, 07:32 PM
I wanted to drift MRs, but right now I want to see how far I can push it in grip since I have MA to drift with when I feel like it. Its defenetly a future project when I finish my 15 as a mod class car.

flat 4
2009.02.23, 12:30 AM
So far the only other thing I can think of is adding weight where the crystal was and to make the board cover thinner.

2009.03.28, 11:13 PM

Here we are, new Stage 1 tuning for ALL bodies and Stage 2 for X speed/speedy/other 50 turn/30k rpm motors. I shaved 2 grams off and achieved a much better result from making the ballast precise and consistent- before front wheels, mounted to the side posts with any increment desirable. I pulled off stock motor with just 1 gram strip and Speedy 07 with 1 more gram stacked. Screws hold the lead in place much better than relying on the sticky side that wears off after so many re-applications. The new servo cover is a piece of aluminum tape and its weight is truly neglegible.

Action B
2009.03.29, 10:54 AM
You should run the NEW PN 70turn motor, its faster than the old (Hfay motor). Also, I know you like shaving weight, but you should get some better batteries. They will make more of a difference than a gram or two of weight.

Also, I don't really think that this is going to teach you a ton about tuning for racing because tuning the different chassis lengths for maximun handling is so different. I'm not trying to be negative, but I'm pretty skeptical that a 90mm MR-015 is going to be capable of beating out truly competitive MR-02s with decent drivers. I think you'd learn the most by following the path of another instead of doing your own thing. A lot of people have spent YEARS tuning these things and you could monopolize on the vast reseource of knowledge from the community on how to dial in your car and make it truly fast.

Of course, this is just my opinion and I in no way mean to be insulting.

2009.03.29, 12:56 PM
What "better" batteries than Orion 9's? And these newer Duracells actually punch about the same, but don't discharge with time, so they're important for me to have a ready set in a week or two when I go race again.

As far as better paths, I'm waiting for PN's 90mm MM mount to see how that thing would fare. I realize the disadvantage of RM perfectly now, but I'm stuck using it until something better comes out for the length.

Also, using narrow bodies on a 15 teaches the MOST unlike any other path. MR15 with wide stance and a wide body will never flip, so there's little to be done there as far as tuning goes. MR02 is just a baby thing in terms of learning to handle it. My driving won't come to me as far as I would prefer, so I'd rather learn everything else the hardest way for when I'll upgrade to an 02.

I've seen quite a few people start Zs around the same time as myself, and they all got 02s. After about a month, tuning of my car surpassed theirs because all they had to do was add a ball diff/x speed and better tires to be ready to race. They just learned to drive it and drive it faster while I HAD to learn everything about springs, DDS springs, how hplates actually affect the car, and so on due to the body roll. Also had to learn dynamic driving due to body roll.

Action B
2009.03.30, 09:32 AM
Well I'm not going to hijack your thread with any arguing. If you feel that your tactics are working for you and your having fun then thats all that matters to me.

I was referring to the duracell batts, not the orions btw. I know of their discharging properties.

2009.03.30, 09:35 AM
I appreciate the advise man, don't get me wrong, but I'd prefer something helpful for this project. All of you guys told me about MR02 > 15 already, but going with 02 won't teach me basics.

2009.03.30, 04:22 PM
As long as you have fun it does not matter what you do.
I think your doing some very interesting things.

2009.03.30, 07:01 PM
Thanks. I think I may put this on a relative backseat in favor of my rwd MA since I'd need a hotter motor to see how far this setup can go. Theoretically though, it may go all the way to 33 turn motors with not much more weight added up front.

2009.03.30, 07:25 PM
talk to EMU, im pretty sure he made the B if not the A main at the KO race with a ferrari 355 015!! the car hauled ass!! i only think he rolled once the whole weekend! i dont think that the 015 is any worse than the AWD as far as CG.

2009.03.30, 07:38 PM
15 RM NEEDS weight up front to stop the front from taking off when its accelerating or when you let off and turn hard enough since its CG is in the rear 1/3 of the car. I'm still surprised at how simple the solution was instead of extensive suspension adjustments and such.

2009.04.16, 12:28 AM
My last project was an 86mm MR-015 RM. I did this only so I could run the 935 Porsche body. It went quick after you basic upgrades, but understeered greatly. 9 grams on the front body clip fixed the problem at the cost of acceleration. I don't regret building the car but if I could've put the body on a MR-02 I would have. Good luck with your project.

2009.04.16, 05:34 AM
Thanks for input. Check my youtube vids in Videos section to see how this guy oversteers if anything.

flat 4
2009.05.12, 10:12 PM
So now the Battle Machine thread will be on the 02 thred? Well maybe you'll build anthor MR15.

2009.05.12, 10:14 PM
Yea I might make another in 02 section once I try some things out and all that. Key point is that ill be using narrow bodies so it wont really be a proper 02, but probably a 2.5 lol

2009.05.13, 01:24 AM
talk to EMU, im pretty sure he made the B if not the A main at the KO race with a ferrari 355 015!! the car hauled ass!! i only think he rolled once the whole weekend! i dont think that the 015 is any worse than the AWD as far as CG.

Marcus, I barely missed the A with the 355. I rolled it once, which cost me my B1 finish, and bump up to the A (allowing my teammate to get the win, there are no team orders permitted, so I had to make it look convincing :p ) In Q3, I was on pace for 27 laps, which would have put me in the A, but I scrubbed the boards while blinking (I always blink once every straight), and I lost the 27 lap run :(

That car is my favorite car that I have. At that race, the chassis was held together by glue and tape in 5 areas... Im surprised it made it to the end of the race. I just changed to a new chassis last week, and started running the car again, with a dominant win on its first run after the chassis change. For the last few weeks I was running a 94mm P935 015 with EMU Racing 015 wide tower bars, and won every race... but it still wasnt as good as the f355.

015 CG is better than the AWD. The height is about the same, but the mass is more centralized, which gives it lower CG.

I need to get a new f355 body, to use the 90mm mount with. I need to shave the rear of the body to clear the DDS, and dont want to do that without having a spare body. In the meantime, I plan to use an Audi TT that I have in storage.

2009.05.16, 08:03 PM

Well here we are: 183g RTR. I think I might start calling this MR-215 before too long lol.