View Full Version : engine stall after few minutes

2009.02.10, 11:58 AM
Hi All,
I have the asf replacement kit installed on my AWD for a few months, but now when I start racing on my home made circuit it keeps stalling after a few minutes of racing...and the stall is very fast, within a few seconds the car completely dies. I thought the batteries were depleted but after a change with fresh and full ones the same thing happened again. After a few seconds the car drives again but only for short...cool down ..driving..stall...:(

If I give it a few minutes of cool down running time lasts longer but still way too short. Is this some kind of temperature issue? I think i could expect the board to run an x-speed with no problem.

(I currently run the AWD with Kyosho X-speed V AWD with 19/31)

Any one has a clue?


2009.02.10, 01:07 PM
The AWD X-speed motor comes with a small yellowish colored circuit breaker wired in line with one of the motor leads. Remove it and re-solder the eyelet back onto the wire and connect. Problem should be solved.

2009.02.11, 06:38 AM
took out the yellow 'thing', it works fine now. Great, it was constantly in the way too and spoiled looks; now the chassis even looks better.
One thing though, its probably there for a reason, whats the function of this yellowish device?

2009.02.11, 07:50 AM
It is a circuit breaker. When things heat up to a pre determined point the current flow is interupted to prevent overheating of components. Check your gearing. Too high a ratio(geared for max speed) can put excessive load on the motor which increases heat. Try gearing down some and see if the heat decreases also. The X-speed is an excellent little motor but is a little light on torque. There are a lot of parts to get rotating in an AWD so a motor with a lot of bottom end grunt is handy.

2009.02.11, 11:17 AM
thanks again!!:)
It was indeed geared a little long for a small circuit. Constantly running low revs hence high current, but I thought the xspeed would not be very demanding on the electronics anyhow, considering its low power. Probably it is not so efficient then?

Do I now run more risk to blow the elektronics?

I can try my stock-R too to see if that handles better although I think it is a bit too wild engine for a small home track. :D Then again, it might be better to control with 2,4Ghz than with AM?

2009.02.11, 12:29 PM
If it is at least a 3010 AM car you should be OK but remember, the harder you work the motor off the corner the more heat you will build. The biggest worry is chassis damage from heat. After a short while anything the motor comes in contact with acts as a heat sync and will become very brittle. If it is a 2.4 version I wouldn't worry about the board but again you are running into a heat factor. The StockR is a good choice. It is a real stump puller and can get away with a higher gear for speed due to it's tremendous torque and probably will run cooler in the process.

2009.02.13, 03:07 PM
strange things happen...just popped in my stockR and fresh batteries and the board shuts down after hitting the throttle one time. Pairing again, steering works, hit the throttle...dead....etc..Sometimes even glitching...eeek:eek: I thought that was over with 2,4Ghz.

Dropped in the Xspeed, re-paired, et voila everything runs fine, what the...
Can't the 2,4board handle an stockR motor? Does the voltage drop too low? (the batteries are fine).
Anyone a clue??

2009.02.13, 03:35 PM
There should be no concern with a StockR and a 2.4 board. I had a similar situation just today. I paired a new car and transmitter and ran a pack of batteries through it to test. All went as advertised. I put in another set of batteries and the car went nuts as if another radio was on the same channel. Turned it off and back on and got the same deal. I shut down and went through the pairing process again and all was fine so I'm not to sure what might be causing your problem. Check the motor over very carefully for loose connections, brush contact, clean comm, etc. Make sure that nothing electrical is in direct contact with anything made of carbon fiber. The carbon fiber is an excellent conducter and can play havoc with anything electronic. You are running an AWD so that shouldn't be the case but if you have any graphite pieces on the car check for bare wire touching. Beyond that you will need help from somebody that knows a whole lot more than I do.

2009.02.22, 02:44 PM
Now the KT18 doesnt even reset anymore. There is a blue light, but no response to either pairing or resetting actions :(
I think I have to return the TX and wait for a replacement :mad:

2009.02.22, 03:41 PM
No insult intended but what are the condition and type of the batteries in the transmitter? For some reason the transmitter doesn't perform well with rechargeables. Use good quality alkalines. My personal preference has always been Duracells.

2009.02.22, 06:25 PM
thanks! :) I will try them tomorrow.

2009.02.23, 01:33 PM
...just installed fresh dry Duracells..no change.
It just doesnt reset or pair anymore. Blue light shines though.
Think I'll make a trip to a K-dealer and ask for a new one.
(Or is there anyone with a suggestion left)


2009.02.23, 02:09 PM
Does the radio have a reset feature? Like a default to get back to square one after everything has been pushed and tweaked and all that sort of thing getting stuck in the training mode. I have never used one cause I'm a lefty but I have one as a back up I've just never tried to do anything with it. Good Luck.

2009.02.23, 04:07 PM
Yes it has a reset function. Same as pairing but with throttle down trim button instead of up trim button.