View Full Version : DIY Wheel Bearing Spacer

2009.02.24, 01:31 PM
The new wheel bearing spacers from FPR are a great idea. However, I couldn’t justify paying $14 for this product on my two cars. This is a DIY guide to making these spacers out of the spring spacer cups that we all have.

Tools Required:

2 x Spring spacers
File or Sandpaper
Exacto knife


1. Set your calipers to 1.10mm and turn the little screw to lock it in place. Find the spring spacer cup that you’ve chosen for this and use the caliper to scribe a line (from the smaller diameter end) around the spacer. This line will be your guide to cutting and sanding your spacer.


2. Take the scribed spacer and insert a kingpin that you’ll no longer need. The king pin is just there for you to hold so the spacer doesn’t fly away when you cut. Take your exacto knife and press down on the spacer towards the kingpin cut it. If your knife is sharp enough, it should go through pretty easily. Then move your way around the spacer to cut all the way around. Remember to leave some space from the scribed line when cutting. You don’t want to cut it too close and make the spacer too short.


3. The next step is to file or sand down the spacer to the right height. To file it, use the king pin again as a tool to move the spacer around. Use your nails push the spacer towards the file/sandpaper. When you’re filling, use a circular or figure 8 pattern and try to rotate the spacer often. This ensures that the spacer won’t come out crooked. Constantly check the height of the spacer, we want to make the spacer ~1.10mm.

NOTE: If you don’t have calipers, just use a guess and check method and keep trying by fitting the spacer into your wheel to see if it’s the right height.


4. Once the spacer is the correct height, remove the sanding debris to avoid it from going into your bearings. To install, remove the inboard wheel bearing from the wheel. Place the bearing on the axle, then slide the spacer on there afterwards. Now press in the wheel and secure your lug nuts. TIGHEN! :D

5. Repeat for the other side.

2009.02.24, 02:12 PM
An old 1/10 scale antenna tube can be used in place of the spring spacers. It would be cheaper and you can make more spacers from it.

2009.02.24, 02:15 PM
once you torque the nut down a plastic spacer will buckle and possibly bind on the inside of the rim/bearings
from II to ()

2009.02.24, 04:44 PM
Pictures Added!

If you look at the thickness of the spacer compared to the outer diameter, theres no way it can buckle. Especially since the inner diameter of the spacer is pretty nicely fitted onto the axle.

2009.02.24, 06:20 PM
its still only plastic,softer than steel even if it does fit on the axle tightly its still going to squish over time
good idea though:)

2009.02.24, 07:03 PM
its still only plastic,softer than steel even if it does fit on the axle tightly its still going to squish over time
good idea though:)
This much is true... I've used Atomic ride height spacers to do something similar before, but it doesn't work out quite so well after a couple of wheel changes -- otherwise I'd still be using them instead of trying out TJ's shims. Though I'm still trying to figure out a fix for molded plastic wheels other than bugging TJ to make another batch of shims...

2009.02.24, 11:24 PM
Brian: I have the shims. As a matter of fact, it was suppose to be a package deal. 2x spacers and 4x shims (in and outside of the bearings) but it was way over my budget so we settled for spacers for now. I'll talk to my supplier if he can have some ready. Just a few to try out.

Ronac: Not a bad idea.

2009.02.26, 09:31 AM
What is the point in using a fitting brass tube instead of plastic?
I bought one tube with 3,0mm outer diameter and 2,1mm inner diameter for 2,15.
1000mm length.
I cut it with a knife and a cordless screwdriver. The rest is explained already here ;)

Knacki ->Just an idea

2009.02.28, 01:29 PM
I made use of a wheel spacer from an ASC dummy chassis, it was easier to work with than the suspension limiter. I just put them in my MR-015 and the wheel slop is gone. I took them out to check and they are ok, no marks from the bearings (careful tightener).