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jonnywachter
2009.03.12, 08:00 PM
If you guys were to build a competitive stock pan car, what parts would you use? All you have is the electronics board. So you have to get EVERYTHING else. What would you need and what parts would you use? This is what i have so far. Please tell me what i should change or what i need, or what might be overkill.
so far...
3Racing gold king pins
Atomic VDS II body
Atomic servo gears
Atomic servo pins
Atomic 2mm lock nuts
Atomic c-ring for mini-z kingpin
Atomic Front spring up and down adjustable post.
PN Racing screws
Reflex t-plate
PN derlin wheel front 0
PN derlin wheel rear +3
Servo saver
Skeleton chassis smoke grey
Reflex wide track front end
PN LCG mount
PN Ceramic ball diff
Atomic Bearings
Atomic 1000w
GPM derlin knuckle 1 degree
Atomic DDS

Things to figure out:
stock motor
tires
batteries

EMU
2009.03.12, 09:23 PM
Looks like you have almost everything covered...

I would avoid the GPM Delrin knuckle, and maybe the 3Racing kingpin. In general, try to keep the same knuckle/kingpin together. They allways seem to work best that way.

What class is this car for? Mod or stock? If it is for the PN mod class, if you are not an expert driver, I would suggest a Speedy 07BB. The motor wont be too fast, and you should be able to get more laps than with a faster motor.

For a 70t class, try Atomic 8w radial rear tires and 40d AW tread in the front. It really makes a good balance. I run 8w radial rears with 40d slicks in the front for a 70t pan class. The orange/blue car in the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5bZddjlxqk

My setup:
ASF chassis
PN FMV3 mount
PN ML disc damper
stock top shock, yellow spring
Kyosho hard carbon t-plate
Atomic vII diff with 13/52 64p gear ratio
PN 70t motor
Kyosho kingpins
PN 1.5d knuckles
Reflex WTF (I only use PN knuckles with WTF, offer a little more toe in than other knuckles)
Green front spring
ATM limiters and preload shims
ATM 0mm front dish wheel, 40d slick
ATM TS 3mm rear wheel, 8d radial
ATM VDS body
Avid bearings
ATM alloy nuts

Batteries: R1Wurks 990
If I use the TRP cells, I need to gear down a little. The R1Wurks have more punch, but not as much top end.

Your parts look alright, although I would suggest PN knuckles with the WTF setup. With other knuckles it feels a little toe out. I personally prefer Kyosho t-plates to any other manufacturer, although I have yet to try the hard Reflex t-plate. The soft and medium are too soft for my local track.

jonnywachter
2009.03.12, 10:21 PM
Thank you for the advise. Im planning to run it in the 70t pan class. I have 7 years of offroad racing experiance, and i am fully sponsored by Team Losi, GRP, Airtronics, Nitrotane, Spektrum, and Vynal graphics unlimited, so im definitely not "new" to the game. The info u gave me was exactly what i was looking for, I greatly appreciate it.

tudor_47
2009.03.13, 02:46 AM
I would stay with the standard chassie from Kyosho as with the smoked chassie you will be missing 2 small pieces needed to attach the powercables to the board, and besides the original chassie is stronger and will not strip the threads as easily as the smoked one.

ruf
2009.03.13, 03:07 AM
3Racing gold king pins - These tend to be oversized, but if you polish them down and use looser knuckles, they are awesome! I usually just use stainless kingpins with a light polish and 3Racing knuckles

Atomic VDS II body - Great choice for a body, but check your club to see if it's legal.

Atomic servo gears - I've only got experience with Kyosho and PN delrin servo gears. If the Atomics are up to par, then you are GTG.

Atomic servo pins - No benefit over the stock Kyosho ones.

Atomic 2mm lock nuts - Be careful as most aftermarket locknuts are teh suck. The plastic inserts just don't hold. The Kyosho's are good as well as Reflex. I've heard that there is one version of the PN that are also really good.

Atomic c-ring for mini-z kingpin - No benefit over the stock Kyosho, but you won't get extra plastic parts.

Atomic Front spring up and down adjustable post - I really like the PN aluminum posts for their shorter heights. You can always shave posts to get your desired uptravel. Plastic/delrin is easier to shave. Delrin isn't a benefit if you run your posts inverted like we do. The Atomic fine adjustment shims are great, but I find that I rarely use them.

PN Racing screws - Good choice for swapping to 1.5mm hex, especially the titanium ones if you are trying to drop weight. Reflex also has a titanium 1.5mm hex screw set.

Reflex t-plate - I assume you mean 96mm. Great balance.

PN derlin wheel front 0 - Delrin can be hard to glue. Make sure you pick up some PN rubberized CA. The clear version won't leave nasty black marks on white wheels.

PN derlin wheel rear +3 - Same as above.

Servo saver - Stock Kyosho. Replace if worn. No better option.

Skeleton chassis smoke grey - Good for looks and the gold terminals. For ASF, you need to cut the holes for the ICS plug, bind button and antenna.

Reflex wide track front end - Great for stability and front end feel in transition. However, some tracks and driving styles will suit the increased scrub of a normal width front end. Personally, I never run anything else.

PN LCG mount - Good choice. Make sure you get the latest version with the updated damper post arm mounting.

PN Ceramic ball diff - Good choice. Also might want to consider 64p upgrade and a PN lightweight or 3Racing titanium shaft.

Atomic Bearings - Reflex bearings. Best performance. Low price. Keep spares for extra front wheels or diff thrust bearing replacement.

Atomic 1000w - What are you using this for? Try Kyosho 5000w for the front.

GPM derlin knuckle 1 degree - Pass. Try 3Racing aluminum knuckles. Super smooth, and they are cheap enough to have 0/1/2 for tuning.

Atomic DDS - Good choice. Atomic delrin disks are really good. Another good choice is the new PN. Has nice accommodations for the ASF board. Make sure you prep the disks and plate with sandpaper.

Things to figure out:
stock motor - Dependent on your club/race. PN 70T stock motor is the norm, but some allow the Atomic "stock" motor which is significantly faster. Make sure you break in the PN 70T correctly. http://www.reflexracing.net/motor_break_in.asp

tires - Tire choice is dependent on track and preference. On RCP, Reflex SSG is unbeatable. The higher price is offset by their longevity. We usually run one pair for an entire race weekend practice/quals/mains in stock class. On super high grip RCP, Kyosho 20's and PN 6/8/10 can be used to dial in your rear traction level. Front tire is a PRIMARY tuning option. PN 10/15/20, Kyosho 30, Atomic 40. For carpet, try Atomic tires.

batteries - R1Wurks 750's if they are available. TRP 900's otherwise.

yasuji
2009.03.13, 03:43 AM
hmmmm....i say go all pn.....
batteries, r1 wurks...tires for rcp, pn tires are developed really well for rcp(reflex ssg work good on low grip tracks....)
pn pan car body is raced by the best mini-z drivers all over the world.....;)(its true)
and i use the standard width front end with the pn 1.5 castor bar and 2deg knuckels and +3 front wheels i love tire scrub.....no need to let out of the throttle:p

jonnywachter
2009.03.13, 01:04 PM
Well this is the final list of parts I got between ebay, rckenon, and this website. I was going to wait because the guy who got me into this was going to take me to his practice track and let me run a car to see if i really liked it. After figuring all the parts out i just couldn't wait tho!

Team Orion 1100RT AAA CELLS Ultra high Capacity ORI1320
Reflex Racing Mini-Z MR-02 Wide Track Front End (WTF) Kit - Matte Black
3 Racing Kyosho Mini Z MR-02 King Pin MZII-010
PN Racing MR015/MR02 Alm Camber Steering Knuckle 1.5 Deg (Silver)
PN Mini-Z MR-02 MM/MR-02 LM LCG V4 98-102mm Motor Mount - Silver
PN Racing 64 Pitch Delrin Spur Gear & Pinion Kit
PN Mini-Z MR-02 Ceramic Ball Diff Set
PN Racing Mini-Z PNWC 70 Turn Official Stock Motor
PN Racing MR02 Machine Cut Delrin 21mm Wheel Rear 3 (White)
PN Racing MR02 Machine Cut Delrin 21mm Wheel Front 0 (White)
PN Racing Alm. 2mm Wheel Lock Nut Black
PN Racing MR02 Multi Length Graphite Disk Damper Set (Silver)
PN Racing Mini-Z Screws Set
Atomic Mini-Z Ball Bearing Set
Atomic Mini-Z Front Spring Collar - 3.8/4.0/4.5mm
Atomic Kyosho Mini-Z MR-02 Front Spring Set AR-013-A
Atomic Mini-Z MR-02 VDS II Body (98mm WB)
Kyosho Mini-Z High Precision Delrin Servo Gear AR-229
Kyosho MR02 Servo Saver Assembly
Kyosho Mini-Z Servo Gear Shaft Set
Kyosho Mini-Z C-ring 2pcs (for MR-015, MR-02) AR-074
Kyosho Mini Z FRP Rear Sus. Plate Set (MM) AR-246
Kyosho Mini Z MR-02 SP Skeleton Chassis MZF205GM

I didn't get tires, I figured ill wait till I get to the track since their cheap. Also now im a little sceptic on the FRP rear suspension plate. But im pretty sure those are things I will be able to get at the track and install pretty quick. Thanks for all the suggestions. It seems that there are so many parts out there that everyone has their own preference depending on driving style. Btw im going to be using an AM board out of an F1, would it be necessary to "fett" it for stock?

Cherub1m
2009.03.17, 12:01 PM
Thank you for the advise. Im planning to run it in the 70t pan class. I have 7 years of offroad racing experiance, and i am fully sponsored by Team Losi, GRP, Airtronics, Nitrotane, Spektrum, and Vynal graphics unlimited, so im definitely not "new" to the game. The info u gave me was exactly what i was looking for, I greatly appreciate it.


Hi Jonnywachter

Let me first say welcome to the Miniz Racer forum and Welcome to Miniz's. It's nice to see some already accomplished drivers come try out the Miniz's.

I saw that you are planning on using an AM F1 PCB for your pan car and that you were considering fetting. Well, first check with your LHS to see if fetting is legal. Fetting for stock class will help give you more punch, do you really need it? Well, for most stock class you don't you just need a good and well broken in stock motor and a good set of batteries (preferrably matched sets) if you do decide to fet then I would not go any more then a 2x2 stack.

AM Miniz boards are very competitive however, given your background and 7 years experience with RC's I would highly recommend you try the 2.4ghz (ASF) Miniz. Everything about 2.4ghz PCB is better then the AM PCB(better break range, smoother and faster steering, smoother throttle response, more linear throttle, already has enough fets to run most motors).

Good Luck

jonnywachter
2009.03.17, 02:05 PM
Thanks for the advice, I work at my LHS (Hot Rod Hobbies) but the place Im planning on racing at, is or was Kenon. Im not sure, I think the track moved, but I will check with them. I think Im going to stick with the AM PCB because from my experience with 2.4 systems, they are slower and just unreliable. Im sure what you are saying is true but Im not a fan of it. I use the Airtronics M11 and the 2.4 is KO, so mixing the two companies cant be good. Also Im planning to run the RCX, what would the rules be for that race?

ruf
2009.03.17, 02:26 PM
You work at Hot Rod? Dude, come down to OC/RC with the Davies. Kenon closed their track, but Grant opened up Pacific MZR in Upland - sweet track.

As for your assumptions about 2.4GHz, I think they are completely unfounded. The 2.4GHz KO cars have MUCH faster response than the AM cars. I know a lot of guys that use KO 2.4GHz ASF with M11 using the PN Racing adapter and it works great!

jonnywachter
2009.03.17, 02:52 PM
Ok, well I dont have the money to get 2.4 stuff at the moment unless some one wants to give it away. I already spent a lot of money on the car because I was told the AM stuff was faster and thats what I had. Also I haven't even gotten everything yet because when I got the box it was unsealed and missing a lot of parts.

ruf
2009.03.17, 03:13 PM
No worries. You can still rock the AM. I'd also pick up an autoscale like an Aston Martin DB9R or Nissan Skyline GT500 if you are going to stay 98mm. This way you can have some fun in the non-pancar classes too.

jonnywachter
2009.03.17, 03:19 PM
Im really only into the pan car stuff

jonnywachter
2009.03.17, 07:29 PM
but I did just order a Vauxhall BTCC Astra Coup. I really like this body style but its only 94mm

yasuji
2009.03.18, 02:35 AM
Thanks for the advice, I work at my LHS (Hot Rod Hobbies) but the place Im planning on racing at, is or was Kenon. Im not sure, I think the track moved, but I will check with them. I think Im going to stick with the AM PCB because from my experience with 2.4 systems, they are slower and just unreliable. Im sure what you are saying is true but Im not a fan of it. I use the Airtronics M11 and the 2.4 is KO, so mixing the two companies cant be good. Also Im planning to run the RCX, what would the rules be for that race?

jonny,
u gotta grt out her and checkout my shop......i now carry a full line of pnracing parts as well as run a pancar points series....final race is this sunday.....cash pay out and lotsa fun:D

jonnywachter
2009.03.18, 02:52 AM
sounds like a ton of fun but I work every sunday. Is there any racing happening on saturday?

yasuji
2009.03.18, 04:04 AM
sounds like a ton of fun but I work every sunday. Is there any racing happening on saturday?

there will be saturday racing starting this weekend.....first of the new schedule
i look foward to meeting you....Matsushimas is the home of miniz pancar;)
there shoulad be quite a few guys running on saturday in preperation for the finals on sunday

jonnywachter
2009.03.18, 02:00 PM
I just ordered some parts from kenon for store pick up so I could get down there and check it out. Maybe ill be able to get this car together to practice a little on saturday, but i don't want to get in the way.

yasuji
2009.03.18, 02:14 PM
I just ordered some parts from kenon for store pick up so I could get down there and check it out. Maybe ill be able to get this car together to practice a little on saturday, but i don't want to get in the way.

no worries man.....i jus talked with chad nelson a friend of bob daughtry
he gave me a heads up.....
we r all friendly down here if you need any help jus ask and we will do our best to make sure you r having fun:D
and even if you dont get your car together by sat.....i have a full fleet of 70t loaner pancars ;)

jonnywachter
2009.03.18, 02:57 PM
Yeah Bob is the one who got me all into this, i had been thinking about it for a long time but as soon as he started telling me about it i had to get one. If there is a loner car there then i will definitely try to make it out saturday :)

jonnywachter
2009.03.18, 08:36 PM
So I have figured out after all the parts I have ordered, the only thing I need is a t-plate adaptor and a wheel wrench. Out of all the tools I have for the 9 other cars I run, I dont have a wrench that will fit that tiny wheel nut. As for the t-plate adaptor, is there a good one or a bad one? are there different thicknesses?

EMU
2009.03.18, 08:53 PM
t-plate adapter: PN dual mount adapter...

jonnywachter
2009.03.19, 12:15 AM
thanks that the one I was going towards

jonnywachter
2009.03.20, 04:37 AM
Al rite so I went down to Kenon today to pick up the rest of what I needed. Now im just waiting on the Reflex WTF and the LCG motor mount and I can finish putting the car together. Since I couldn't actually put the car together I figured I would work on all the little stuff. I rebuilt the diff, sanded the rings and swapped out the 48 pitch for a 64 pitch and put locktite on the nut. Then I went to making pacers for the front bearings out of carbon fiber (not sure how that will hold up). Also I took the paint off all the springs and sway bar, something we do in off road a lot. I got some drano max gel and stripped the front spring cups from that ugly red, then polished them. finally I sanded the DDS and put 7000 diff oil on it, may be to heavy im not sure. I just wanted to see what it felt like. So here is my car as it sits on my pit awaiting the parts to be completed.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211246.jpg

yasuji
2009.03.20, 02:56 PM
Al rite so I went down to Kenon today to pick up the rest of what I needed. Now im just waiting on the Reflex WTF and the LCG motor mount and I can finish putting the car together. Since I couldn't actually put the car together I figured I would work on all the little stuff. I rebuilt the diff, sanded the rings and swapped out the 48 pitch for a 64 pitch and put locktite on the nut. Then I went to making pacers for the front bearings out of carbon fiber (not sure how that will hold up). Also I took the paint off all the springs and sway bar, something we do in off road a lot. I got some drano max gel and stripped the front spring cups from that ugly red, then polished them. finally I sanded the DDS and put 7000 diff oil on it, may be to heavy im not sure. I just wanted to see what it felt like. So here is my car as it sits on my pit awaiting the parts to be completed.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211246.jpg
make sure you install a front brace across the front of the pancar body.....;)

jonnywachter
2009.03.20, 03:16 PM
What front brace?

yasuji
2009.03.20, 03:55 PM
What front brace?

ill show you tomorrow when you come down;)

Rune
2009.03.20, 04:23 PM
Front brace?
Explanation please:)
We have a few pan car bodies at our track that cracks in the front. Is this a piece that strenghtens it?

I use hotglue and some plastic to reinforce mine

EMU
2009.03.20, 04:48 PM
I use the Kenon Insta Flex glue with reinforcement from nylon reinforced packing tape which is very thin and light across the front of the body. I see no need to use front brace...

Before doing this, I had a crack that is about 2 inches long on the side of the front clip. I repaired it and added the reinforcement to the entire front... hasnt cracked again even with some pretty bad hits.

briankstan
2009.03.20, 05:40 PM
I use the Kenon Insta Flex glue with reinforcement from nylon reinforced packing tape which is very thin and light across the front of the body. I see no need to use front brace...

Before doing this, I had a crack that is about 2 inches long on the side of the front clip. I repaired it and added the reinforcement to the entire front... hasnt cracked again even with some pretty bad hits.

Do you have a picture of this? I'd be interested, I have a body that needs a repair on the front.

yasuji
2009.03.20, 05:45 PM
Front brace?
Explanation please:)
We have a few pan car bodies at our track that cracks in the front. Is this a piece that strenghtens it?

I use hotglue and some plastic to reinforce mine

i just use a .5 mm thick piece of plastic from the lhs and cut to fit across the front of the body ang ca glue it in ,to distribute the the impact force across the front rather than ripping up the sidr of the fr bodyclip mount.....at**ic bodies are the worst for wall snaging.... as they are thin and light they also crack/rip/bend easier on impact

jonnywachter
2009.03.21, 12:59 AM
ill show you tomorrow when you come down;)

I dont think I will be able to make it tomorrow im going to go to the off road expo in pomona, but im pretty sure the track is kinda close to there. Maybe my girlfriend wont mind if we stop by to do some laps. Well here is the car in all its completeness. Finally I got the parts in the mail today, I was so excited to be able to finally put it together. What are the hours you will be there tomorrow?


http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211245.jpghttp://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211244.jpghttp://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211246-1.jpghttp://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211247.jpghttp://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211249.jpghttp://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211255.jpghttp://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211251.jpghttp://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211253.jpghttp://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k131/jon_wachter/P3211257.jpg

Yes I know I have the wrong T-plate, but Bob told me he'd give me the rite one and also tires and batteries. I got the Reflex 96mm T-plates but they make the wheel base to long, what am I doing wrong?

pinoyboy
2009.03.21, 01:21 AM
The mount you are using is for 98mm-102 mm. The reflex T-plates are 2mm longer, so you have 100mm wheelbase when you use them with that mount.

This mount will get you 96mm
http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/shop2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=37_129_144&products_id=3731

I hope I helped you some:o

jonnywachter
2009.03.21, 03:43 AM
oh, ok that makes a lot more sense now, thanks.

yasuji
2009.03.21, 05:24 AM
oh, ok that makes a lot more sense now, thanks.

Matsushimas is open from noon till 10 pm

Felix2010
2009.03.21, 05:41 AM
I use the Kenon Insta Flex glue with reinforcement from nylon reinforced packing tape which is very thin and light across the front of the body. I see no need to use front brace...

Before doing this, I had a crack that is about 2 inches long on the side of the front clip. I repaired it and added the reinforcement to the entire front... hasnt cracked again even with some pretty bad hits.

EMU - Your method sounds pretty cool + easy. Just a couple questions please:
>Do you apply this reinforcement to the top-front of the Pan body, or to the underside of the front going around the body clip - Or both?
>Also - How do you apply the Insta-Flex glue? Do you apply a thin layer directly to the body, and then completely cover the glued area with the nylon-reinforced packing tape?

Thanks for the tips:D

mk2kompressor
2009.03.21, 06:58 AM
http://www.risingsunracing.co.uk/shop/images/vdsII%20Front%20Strengthener.jpg

i sell these in my shop,hand made from 1mm carbon:)

yasuji
2009.03.21, 01:20 PM
http://www.risingsunracing.co.uk/shop/images/vdsII%20Front%20Strengthener.jpg

i sell these in my shop,hand made from 1mm carbon:)

lol..... that is exactly what i am talking about but i use.5 mm hobby plastic

EMU
2009.03.21, 01:39 PM
EMU - Your method sounds pretty cool + easy. Just a couple questions please:
>Do you apply this reinforcement to the top-front of the Pan body, or to the underside of the front going around the body clip - Or both?
>Also - How do you apply the Insta-Flex glue? Do you apply a thin layer directly to the body, and then completely cover the glued area with the nylon-reinforced packing tape?

Thanks for the tips:D
I reinforced both sides of the front lip, applying the glue to the body, then tape over it while it is still wet. Press down and wipe away the glue that comes out of the side of the tape...

I have used this method on autoscales that already had huge cracks... and they have held together, but havent looked the prettiest. The increase in weight is very little....

B-main
2009.04.04, 03:53 PM
my 1st order from kenon .i like orange

2 x R1wurks Matched 750mah Ultra High Out world champion batteries
1 x PN Racing MR02 Alum Toe OutTie Rod -1.0 (Orange)
1 x PN Racing MR02 Alm 1.5 Degree Caster Tower Bar V2 (Orange)
2 x PN Racing MR02 Alum Toe Out Tie Rod -0.5 (Orange)
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z MR02 Alm Front Tower Bar Set (MR02) Orange
1 x PN Racing MR015/MR02 Alm Camber Steering Knuckle 1.5 Deg (Orange)
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z Disk Damper Spring Set (3 pairs)
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z MR015/02 Low Down Front Spring Set (5 pairs)
1 x PN Racing MR02 Stainless Steel King Pin
1 x PN Racing V2 White Delrin Disk Set (2pcs)
1 x PN Racing MR02 Disk Damper Screw Washer (Orange) 2pcs
1 x PN Racing MR02 Multi Length Graphite Disk Damper Set (Orange)
1 x PN Racing MR02 Front Spring Cup (3 pairs)
1 x PN Racing MR015/02 High Clamp Force T-Bar Mount
1 x PN Racing MR02 94-98mm Motor Mount Damper Post (Orange)
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z MR02 Motor Mount Ball Bearing adaptor
1 x PN Racing Ball Bearing Cleaning Case
1 x Kyosho Mini-Z MR02 MM Cabon T-Bar set
2 x PN Racing Alm. 2mm Wheel Lock Nut - Orange
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z MR015 MR02 Ball Bearing Set (7pcs)
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z MR02 Front Swing Bar Set
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z MR02 98-102mm V4 LCG Motor Mount (Orange)
1 x PN Racing Ultra V2 Presure Plate Set for PN Ball Diff
1 x PN Racing Ball Bearing 4x7x2mm for Spur Gear (2pcs)
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z MR02 Ball Diff E-Ring (10pcs)
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z 3/32 Carbon Ceramic Ball (12pcs)
1 x PN Racing 5.5V 0.22F Power Capacitor
1 x PN Racing Machine Cut Delrin Pro Pinion 10T
1 x PN Racing Machine Cut Delrin Pro Pinion 9T
1 x PN Racing Machine Cut Delrin Pro Pinion 8T
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z PNWC 70 Turn Offical Stock Motor
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z Stainless Shims Set
1 x TRP GiroZ Transponder Connectors Wire
1 x PN Racing MR02 Alum Disk Damper Post - Orange
1 x Trinity Mini Oil Set .5oz (3)
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z Delrin Servo Gear
1 x PN Racing Mini-Z MR015/02 Ceramic Ball Diff. Set


USD$436.70







my 1st order from kenno ...

cowboysir
2009.04.04, 04:51 PM
Man, i wish i ran a eTailer outfit when guys like you go shopping.;)

i hope you have an MR02 to put all your gear on...give us a "before" and "after' weight for comparison.:D

Tjay
2009.04.13, 05:32 PM
I can't believe I'm on this thread. lol... definitely running WTF and PN's 98mm lay down motor mount.

jonnywachter
2009.04.13, 06:14 PM
What would be a good starting setup using the wtf, my car is fast but the rear end steps out about mid apex of high speed turns. Pan car btw.

CristianTabush
2009.04.13, 07:17 PM
http://www.reflexracing.net/images/set-ups/Jacob_2WD.pdf

I know above is a 96mm set-up, but it should apply with the 98 cars. You might have to play with H-plates a bit.

You might also want to remove the swaybar on the Pan Car. This might be causing your loss of traction. Unless the track is Ultra High-grip, I have not seen a benefit with it on, it makes the car push on entry and over-steer on exit.

ZicZicZoom
2009.05.11, 01:55 PM
make sure for the ball diff that if u use the PN one that u put in a titanium shaft and a delrin spur gear along with a delrin pinion gear. both of the gears make your car more efficient and quieter. if you want to go further get the 64 pitch gear set which is ultra smooth.

Just my input

also the version 3 knuckles from atomic i dont know about degree that is personal preference.

bamaboy379
2009.05.13, 12:21 PM
I think that you need more to think about than tires batteries and a motor. The PN Diff isn't good I used to use it I now use Kyosho. Gold Kingpins aren't good stainless is the way to go. In batteries TSR 900's matched are unbeatable. They provide ultimate punch and suprising sun time. Atomic Stock motor runs super cool so get that one. :)

Glad to be of help

Tjay
2009.05.13, 12:40 PM
You're right. PN diff sucks only if you're running the older diff plates. PN released their diff plates v2 and it is super flat/even... you MUST try that. As a matter of fact, bring that diff to me and I will rebuild it for you. Just make sure you have the v2 plates. I have them in stock. ;-)

Btw, Welcome aboard!!!

GIHOSU
2009.07.07, 04:46 PM
How do people's setups differ between Mod and Stock?

color01
2009.07.07, 05:33 PM
I'm usually lazy and don't change a thing. :D

Sometimes stickier tires are needed (all around, to maintain handling balance) for Mod, so with stickier tires comes heavier damping too. Aside from that the setups don't change a whole lot, a good Stock setup usually translates into a good Mod setup with minimal changes.

One thing that does change though is the battery and FET choice. Stock racers use really powerful batteries and stack FETs to maximize power delivery, while Mod drivers often tone it down on the batteries (or charge them at lower rates to reduce punch) and run fewer or milder FETs (some people run mod motors on the stock ASF 2x2 stack of 3010's) to improve driveability. To that end, transmitter adjustments also help. Running a bit of negative exponential on the throttle can keep the Mod motor's power range in check during the infield, and then you can fire that rocketship down the straight with full throttle.

GIHOSU
2009.07.07, 05:53 PM
hello Brian,

Thanks for your input. I'm very new to the pan car. I'm thinking about running Stock class in the PNWC.

PN body
WTF
2.0 PN knucles
red springs
PN 94mm mount
96mm hard t-plate
PN damder; gold bottom/blue top, ruby lube
F1 shock
PN ball diff, maxed out...
12/52 64p
-1/ATM AW-40 front
21mm +2/Ky 20 Radial rear

It has plenty of steering, just the way I like it. I have sway bar mount but no sway bar for now. I may switch to 13/54 for a tiny bit more top end. Some R1 750's are in my future. I have a few Orion 750's but I think the R1's may have more punch. Thanks again...