PDA

View Full Version : Reflex Racing Ti Shaft


ZachRS
2009.05.07, 10:35 AM
I just got my 2.4ghz awd chassis yesterday and installed this shaft with their new one sided shielded bearing set. I am so impressed with just putting the shaft in.The thing is absolutely perfect.The stock shaft gear works fine and theres no need to shim this shaft at all whatsoever.

Great product.Great Quality

I give it 10stars and they have earned my business.

MantisMMA
2009.05.07, 10:49 AM
yea, it is a great part! i especially like the knurls on the pinion end. what characteristics did you notice with the performance?

MantisMMA
2009.05.07, 11:41 AM
also the bearings make a huge difference, more than you would think. our cars even sound different!

HaCo
2009.05.07, 12:55 PM
Is it the PN version they sell, cause I don't find a reflex one. Maybe a partnumber would be good, thanks...

hrdrvr
2009.05.07, 01:12 PM
^ RX1123. Its right on the home page under new stuff. If you try and pick up a set, you should grab some of their new bearings as well. Those things are ridiculous. Ive got a set and they spin longer than any ceramic bearings Ive ever had.

eztuner12
2009.05.07, 03:34 PM
^ RX1123. Its right on the home page under new stuff. If you try and pick up a set, you should grab some of their new bearings as well. Those things are ridiculous. Ive got a set and they spin longer than any ceramic bearings Ive ever had.

I ordered one of the 4wd Tit center shaft, I will post my feed back as soon I test it, perhaps next week.

So reflex bearings are the best you have try. good to know, I need some new bearings for my 4wd ATM diff. One of them is not performing right.
Thank!!!
Cheers

ZachRS
2009.05.08, 09:57 AM
It does look alittle big when you first look at it but when you compare their's to the standard stainless steel one.Then thats solved. The one problem that I had with two which were the Kyosho Ti 64 wouldnt mesh right and it chewed my gear diff up and Atomic carbon fiber one wasnt great because when I took the car off the ground and throttled up the rear spur gear would slide up the shaft with throttle applied and then back down when throttle off. Also the stock on I had to shim it to get it to not ride up and down when throttle applied and not.

This one however doesn't not do that one bit. Its flush there's no movement to it except what it is suppose to do.I don't have a scale so I cant tell you how much it weighs.

Their bearings also are another really great product.

I dont race anyone, as up here in the north of Texas we or I haven't ran into any LHS that does competitive racing. But these products are top notch, RR knows what their doing because all of their guys are competitive.

I have Kyosho Ball Diff's with RR carbon ceramic balls, RR one sided shielded bearings and the RR ti shaft. Its all on a 2.4ghz awd chassis with stock gearing/motor the chassis is very very quite. Almost as quite as a Mr-02

eztuner12
2009.05.09, 12:03 AM
Hello Gentlemen.

Well, I decided to install my new titanium center shaft from Reflex on my 4wd. It has been laying around since Tuesday, given that I have been short of time.
The shaft looks good from start; it is very rigid as proclaimed. The front gear tip is dented in line to prevent the gear from slipping, great asset. It fits so well and tight on the front gear that no glue is needed, as a fact when I intended to remove the gear, wow, what a hard time I had :eek:.

In line to install it I disassembled the front end to remove the gear, pulled out the rear end to remove the old good steel kyosho shaft. On my way to slip in the new RR titanium shaft form the rear side, the dented tip did not go thru the spur side bearing. I try from the front; no way could I slip it from the font neither, so out with the PCB cover, out with the PCB, out with the servo top covers. I try but it was too tight and had to remove the servo guts and the on/off switch holder to be able to slip it in without any risk of bending the shaft. Thanks God this has to be done ones in a lifetime :rolleyes:.
Now that the shaft is in, in goes the front gear, great tight fit (No glue) and then in goes the spur gear. The spur gear fits so tight too, that I decided not to glue it. Little adjustment in rank to avoid any bindings with the bearings and voila, ready to rock… :cool:

I placed everything back in place after some cleaning & greasing. Btw, I took advantage and did some maintenance to both of the center shaft bearings, as well as, both diffs.

Test time; I tightened the diffs and applied some pressure by hand to see if the spur gear would skip or the shaft will flex; Result, none of the above, as advertized. I am loving it!!!!

Tomorrow I will go for the final test, the joy ride.:):D

Ups!!! I forgot to compare its weight with the kyosho still. Anyone has this info???

It feels very light!:)
Thx!
Cheers

eztuner12
2009.05.10, 04:45 PM
Hi

As promised, today I did the final test to this new Reflex Racing Titanium center shaft for the Mini-z MA-010 AWD, throughout a test drive.

My impression was 100% satisfactory; I will grade it with an A+.

I tested it on a 94 WB, since the shell I will use for the next period will be the ATM V-III Pan body.

I did everything possible to pressure this shaft to its limit, in order to make it slip gears or to create flections, but it defeated my intentions repeatedly. I even placed my car in front of the track rails with worm out tyres, and throttle it all the way with an ATM T2 Motor and Orion 900s to adjust my diff, to a very tight set and it just crushed my effort again.:eek:

This Reflex Racing center shaft is a hard cookie to beat. I have been waiting for this product since I began with Min-zs, and after a few years and many-tested shaft, I finally got it.

Thank you Reflex Racing!!!:):):D

Cheers

-J-
2009.05.11, 03:16 AM
also the bearings make a huge difference, more than you would think. our cars even sound different!

Have you been able to compare them to ceramic bearings? On RR's website they say they're freer than ceramics, although I find that hard to believe.

MantisMMA
2009.05.11, 08:53 AM
they are definately freer than the ceramics and since they are open on one side, easier to maintain properly

hrdrvr
2009.05.11, 11:28 AM
Have you been able to compare them to ceramic bearings? On RR's website they say they're freer than ceramics, although I find that hard to believe.

Ive run the PN open ceramics, and the ATM sealed ceramics. My older Aviod bearings from RR were comarable. These new bearings are more free than either of theo thers mentioned, and I love the one side sealing. As Mantis points out, the shielded bearings are impossible to maintain, and the open ones need to be cleaned evry run. These offer the best of both worlds, a nd I cant get over how free they are. Ill do a little video of wheel spin if you want me to, as most folks I show dont believe they are $10 bearings.

MantisMMA
2009.05.11, 12:26 PM
As long as you face the open side on the inside you dont have to clean them that often. i blast them about every two weeks

eztuner12
2009.05.11, 04:29 PM
Ive run the PN open ceramics, and the ATM sealed ceramics. My older Aviod bearings from RR were comarable. These new bearings are more free than either of theo thers mentioned, and I love the one side sealing. As Mantis points out, the shielded bearings are impossible to maintain, and the open ones need to be cleaned evry run. These offer the best of both worlds, a nd I cant get over how free they are. Ill do a little video of wheel spin if you want me to, as most folks I show dont believe they are $10 bearings.

Sealed bearing are great since they minimized maintenance over open bearings. Open bearings are freer than metal shield, but requires much more maintenance, even if only open one side.

Metal sealed bearings are very easy to clean, if you apply the proper technique.

In line to clean perfectly and easy a metal shield bearing, you deep the bearings in regular paint thinner or break fluid, with in a small jar, live it for 6 to 8 hours or overnight submerged in the thinner/ break fluid, occasionally shake up the jar. After the determinate time into the thinner or break fluid, then allow the bearings to air-dry or you can even blow them out with compressed air this technique will even remove & dissolve and break down the grease that the manufacturer packed the bearings with, then lube it up with the lubricant of your preference:)

Cheers

ocean rodeo
2009.05.11, 06:08 PM
I have a very unorthodox way to clean my bearings. I went to a 99 cents store and purchase a hand held back massager. I cut a empty plastic water bottle in half, fill it up with simple green enough to submerge my bearings then place the cup on top of the massaging head and turn it on. I vibrates the gunk and debris right out. Takes about 15 mins, then I blow them off with air, oil them up, good as new:D

eztuner12
2009.05.11, 06:51 PM
I have a very unorthodox way to clean my bearings. I went to a 99 cents store and purchase a hand held back massager. I cut a empty plastic water bottle in half, fill it up with simple green enough to submerge my bearings then place the cup on top of the massaging head and turn it on. I vibrates the gunk and debris right out. Takes about 15 mins, then I blow them off with air, oil them up, good as new:D

Great idea, very ingénues!:eek:
Good product Simple Green, environment friendly too.
Make sure to wear glove with this product;).
Cheers

lfisminiz
2009.05.11, 07:37 PM
I like the simple green idea.:)

eztuner12
2009.05.11, 10:10 PM
I like the simple green idea.:)


I am very happy with the outcome with the paint thinner 100%.

Definitely, I will try Simple Green next time too:).

Cheers

-J-
2009.05.11, 11:26 PM
Ive run the PN open ceramics, and the ATM sealed ceramics. My older Aviod bearings from RR were comarable. These new bearings are more free than either of theo thers mentioned, and I love the one side sealing. As Mantis points out, the shielded bearings are impossible to maintain, and the open ones need to be cleaned evry run. These offer the best of both worlds, a nd I cant get over how free they are. Ill do a little video of wheel spin if you want me to, as most folks I show dont believe they are $10 bearings.

A video would be great. I'm willing to spend money on good bearings, but not if I can get a better bearing for less.

rocketman
2009.05.11, 11:35 PM
I clean the bearings using a jewelry cleaner that I bought and put the bearings in a bath of Marvel Mystery Oil and that has always worked very well for me. Like the others I put them in the container over night soaking in MMO then drop the bearings with the MMO as suspension fluid into the jewelry cleaner and it vibrates them clean. I usually run the cleaner for about 45 minutes to 1hour and they run without grit. I have even broken in my bearings this way running the bearings longer but it helps to free them up earlier instead of having to run 4 to 5 batteries through the car/motor. May try that paint thinner thing as I like what it could do.

eztuner12
2009.05.12, 12:44 AM
A video would be great. I'm willing to spend money on good bearings, but not if I can get a better bearing for less.

Hi
You should do a little search for bearings in China market. Actually, the best bearings available are made in China or Switzerland. As I can see, you live in HK. Many factories send free samples if requested as well as the will produce specific sizes & specs too.
If you find any good stuff, please let us know of.
I am very concern about bearings ,I am using Boca bearings ceramic sealed, which are the best all @, but they are not producing all the sizes we need for the 4wd car anymore, so I try the ATM ceramics, they are very free and smooth but perhaps only 50% to the Boca Bearings and this is an issue to me.
I am a bearing fanatic; I would like to learn about new good bearings as an alternative for the Boca bearing sealed.
Thx
Cheers
PS. Bearings is an important issue on any RC vehicle, Perhaps the most important in rank of avoiding binding and making your vehicle more efficient. If you guys accompanied me. I will open a thread on the theme. So we can submit our ideas I knowledge about bearings. Any one interested???:confused:

eztuner12
2009.05.12, 12:49 AM
I clean the bearings using a jewelry cleaner that I bought and put the bearings in a bath of Marvel Mystery Oil and that has always worked very well for me. Like the others I put them in the container over night soaking in MMO then drop the bearings with the MMO as suspension fluid into the jewelry cleaner and it vibrates them clean. I usually run the cleaner for about 45 minutes to 1hour and they run without grit. I have even broken in my bearings this way running the bearings longer but it helps to free them up earlier instead of having to run 4 to 5 batteries through the car/motor. May try that paint thinner thing as I like what it could do.

Paint thinner or break fluid is what Boca Bearing brand suggest.;)
Cheers

pfcparts
2009.05.12, 02:06 AM
I use thinner myself as motor cleaner is too damn
expensive.

I haven't found anything to beat the PN ceramics, 02 or 010,
but dry open or semi-open bearings are certainly more cost
effective. I'd say find the cheapest set you can and dry
them.

I have a dry K set on my 02 that are really free, but I suspect
after a bit of abuse they sure wouldn't last as long as the
ceramics, nor would I label that set better then sets I have
run consistently for longer... :p

E, if you do go the atm ceramic route find a supplier at the 50
buck range as if you spend 80 bucks on a set of ceramics, PN is
the way to go...

-----

Back on topic, I was on the fence on picking a few of these up
and I have liked the input here. Good stuff guys. Will do so if
the funds (and the rr site allows it:p)this month lol.


parts

hrdrvr
2009.05.12, 10:47 AM
As long as you face the open side on the inside you dont have to clean them that often. i blast them about every two weeks

I was agreeing with you about the ease of maintenance of these bearings. I think I either misunderstood this, or wasnt clear enough in my explanation, but I totally agree with you, except I only clean mine every 6 to 8 weeks, lol.


Sealed bearing are great since they minimized maintenance over open bearings. Open bearings are freer than metal shield, but requires much more maintenance, even if only open one side.

The idea behind the reflex singe shielded side is that you get the protection of sealed with the free-ness (is that a word?, lol) of open bearings. If you configure them like they are supposed to be, with the open sides facing each other, then they are practically sealed. The only dirt or grime that could get into them, would be the stuff thats allready within the knuckle.

I use the PN bearing cleaning container and thinner all the time on sealed, unselaed, and these half sealed bearings, and I think its the best stuff Ive found. I havent tried simple grean, but thinner is VERY effective, its cheap, and Ive always got tons of it around :D


A video would be great. I'm willing to spend money on good bearings, but not if I can get a better bearing for less.

I went ahead and shot a video this morning for you. Its with my still cam, and uploaded through photobucket, so its not great quality. I cleaned these bearings about 3 weeks ago, so they have been through 3 race nights (two 8s and a 10 each night), as well as many hours testing and tuning, as Im trying to get it worked out for mod at the PNWC. Ive got more hours logged on this car in the last month, than any other two of my fleet combined, and I practice/race a LOT :D Its safe to say that if they are properly cleaned and lubed they could be more effective than this, but I didnt do anything, just to show the true quality, and why I rave about these bearings :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Videos/th_P1010005.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Videos/?action=view&current=P1010005.flv)


E, if you do go the atm ceramic route find a supplier at the 50
buck range as if you spend 80 bucks on a set of ceramics, PN is
the way to go...

I have to totally agree with this, as the PN ceramics are the best ceramics Ive ever run. The ATMs are close, and a good buy at ~$30 less than the PNs. Ill be honest though, Ill never spend more than $20 on a set of bearings as long as RR keeps this type of quality availalbe!

eztuner12
2009.05.12, 01:19 PM
I was agreeing with you about the ease of maintenance of these bearings. I think I either misunderstood this, or wasnt clear enough in my explanation, but I totally agree with you, except I only clean mine every 6 to 8 weeks, lol.




The idea behind the reflex singe shielded side is that you get the protection of sealed with the free-ness (is that a word?, lol) of open bearings. If you configure them like they are supposed to be, with the open sides facing each other, then they are practically sealed. The only dirt or grime that could get into them, would be the stuff thats allready within the knuckle.

I use the PN bearing cleaning container and thinner all the time on sealed, unselaed, and these half sealed bearings, and I think its the best stuff Ive found. I havent tried simple grean, but thinner is VERY effective, its cheap, and Ive always got tons of it around :D




I went ahead and shot a video this morning for you. Its with my still cam, and uploaded through photobucket, so its not great quality. I cleaned these bearings about 3 weeks ago, so they have been through 3 race nights (two 8s and a 10 each night), as well as many hours testing and tuning, as Im trying to get it worked out for mod at the PNWC. Ive got more hours logged on this car in the last month, than any other two of my fleet combined, and I practice/race a LOT :D Its safe to say that if they are properly cleaned and lubed they could be more effective than this, but I didnt do anything, just to show the true quality, and why I rave about these bearings :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Videos/th_P1010005.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Videos/?action=view&current=P1010005.flv)




I have to totally agree with this, as the PN ceramics are the best ceramics Ive ever run. The ATMs are close, and a good buy at ~$30 less than the PNs. Ill be honest though, Ill never spend more than $20 on a set of bearings as long as RR keeps this type of quality availalbe!

Hi London

Any vid with an 4wd with its diff and axles added?
Thx
Cheers

-J-
2009.05.12, 11:53 PM
I went ahead and shot a video this morning for you. Its with my still cam, and uploaded through photobucket, so its not great quality. I cleaned these bearings about 3 weeks ago, so they have been through 3 race nights (two 8s and a 10 each night), as well as many hours testing and tuning, as Im trying to get it worked out for mod at the PNWC. Ive got more hours logged on this car in the last month, than any other two of my fleet combined, and I practice/race a LOT :D Its safe to say that if they are properly cleaned and lubed they could be more effective than this, but I didnt do anything, just to show the true quality, and why I rave about these bearings :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Videos/th_P1010005.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Videos/?action=view&current=P1010005.flv)

I really appreciate the video. That's really helpful. I'm definitely going with these bearings as opposed to $50 & $80 dollar ceramics.

hrdrvr
2009.05.13, 08:18 AM
Hi London

Any vid with an 4wd with its diff and axles added?
Thx
Cheers

Honestly Richard, I havent installed my new sets into my AWDs yet :eek: The PN race thats coming up here isnt going to have any AWD classes :( so I wont be working on them again until next month. Im sure they are of the same high quality as these are. I never noticed any difference from AWD to 2WD with the previous RR bearings,which were also very good for the price. These are jsut incredible, IMO.


I really appreciate the video. That's really helpful. I'm definitely going with these bearings as opposed to $50 & $80 dollar ceramics.

I dont think youll be disappointed. Most of the bearings Ive tried get about 5-10 seconds of spin time, and thats right after a good cleaning. My ceramics would be spin for about 20 seconds (sometimes a little more, if I practiced and really got a good spin on :D) after a good cleaning. As you can see in the video, these spun for about 20 seconds, without any preperation at all, on the first spin. Im sire with a little cleaning, and a couple warm-up spins, I could make a rather impressive video with these :D


Also, just so every one knows, I am not affiliated with reflex. I do rock their name in my signature, but thats just because Ive grown to appreciate what CT has done for me over the years. He has helped me countless times, and now is at a place where he is also providing excellent products at a good price point. I cant help but try and support he and Joe as much as I can for what they are doing for the growth of our little scale :D

eztuner12
2009.05.13, 12:32 PM
Thxxx...hrdrvr
I can wait until you have the time and intall these RR bearings to your 4wd.
It looks very good on the 2wd video, BTW.
I personally do my bearings test differently. I place a piece of a flat class, about 1’X 1.5’ on an angle position and some duct gray type where this glass contacts with the floor, hard floor that is, mark a starting position on the top side of the glass, place the car there RTR with no motor gear, and let it loose so it will roll down. Then I mark on the floor where the rear wheels stop and measure the distance. I have only done this a few times, first with Kyosho bearings then ATM ceramics and finally Boca Bearings. Can remember the exact measurements but certainly can remember Boca bearings distance was about 50% more than Atomics.

Few months pass, I did a mini-z 4wd for a friend with ATM ceramics and did the test to compare with my 2+year old Boca Bearing, and the result was about the same. Too bad Boca bearing is not producing all the needed sizes ceramic metal sealed bearings any more:(.

Cheers

BTW, guys we are invading this RR Ti center shaft, with bearings issues:eek:

-J-
2009.05.13, 07:58 PM
BTW, guys we are invading this RR Ti center shaft, with bearings issues:eek:

I know. ;)

eztuner12
2009.05.14, 12:46 AM
Thxxx...hrdrvr
I can wait until you have the time and intall these RR bearings to your 4wd.
It looks very good on the 2wd video, BTW.
I personally do my bearings test differently. I place a piece of a flat class, about 1’X 1.5’ on an angle position and some duct gray type where this glass contacts with the floor, hard floor that is, mark a starting position on the top side of the glass, place the car there RTR with no motor gear, and let it loose so it will roll down. Then I mark on the floor where the rear wheels stop and measure the distance. I have only done this a few times, first with Kyosho bearings then ATM ceramics and finally Boca Bearings. Can remember the exact measurements but certainly can remember Boca bearings distance was about 50% more than Atomics.

Few months pass, I did a mini-z 4wd for a friend with ATM ceramics and did the test to compare with my 2+year old Boca Bearing, and the result was about the same. Too bad Boca bearing is not producing all the needed sizes ceramic metal sealed bearings any more:(.

Cheers

BTW, guys we are invading this RR Ti center shaft, with bearings issues:eek:

Can’t edit here:mad::mad::rolleyes:
So have to clear up my saying.
"results was about the same" as before Boca rolled @ 50% more in this occasion too.

Felix2010
2009.06.06, 08:57 PM
I just got an RR Ti MA010 center driveshaft. It looks very nice:)

The Stock Kyosho steel centershaft weighed in at 1.81g on my scale.
The Reflex Ti centershaft weighed in at 1.04g:D

eztuner12
2009.06.07, 02:06 AM
I just got an RR Ti MA010 center driveshaft. It looks very nice:)

The Stock Kyosho steel centershaft weighed in at 1.81g on my scale.
The Reflex Ti centershaft weighed in at 1.04g:D


Hi Felix,
Thx… for the valuable info.
0.77g is a good weight reduction, especially on the center shaft a direct rotation part.
That would be @ 42.5% shaft rotation weight cutback.

BTW. CA Glue your spur gear to the shaft, even if it fits tight. My fitted so tight I didn’t CA glued and with time, it came off, damaging the spur gear. For your reference, I am using a PN 37T & Neo-mags motor.

The front gear doesn’t have to be glue what so ever:).

Cheers.

Felix2010
2009.06.07, 02:40 AM
Hi Felix,
Thx… for the valuable info.
0.77g is a good weight reduction, especially on the center shaft a direct rotation part.
That would be @ 42.5% shaft rotation weight cutback.

BTW. CA Glue your spur gear to the shaft, even if it fits tight. My fitted so tight I didn’t CA glued and with time, it came off, damaging the spur gear. For your reference, I am using a PN 37T & Neo-mags motor.

The front gear doesn’t have to be glue what so ever:).

Cheers.

You are very welcome:)

0.77g doesn't sound like much, but when you look at the percentage of weight saved versus the stock center driveshaft it really is pretty significant.

Just to clarify - So the front 8t pinion gear you say does not need to be glued whatsoever; The rear spur gear (27t,29t, or 31t) however should be glued a little? Usually I don't find it necessary to glue either gear (front or rear) to the center-driveshaft. What brand rear-spur gears are you using?

eztuner12
2009.06.07, 03:49 AM
You are very welcome:)

0.77g doesn't sound like much, but when you look at the percentage of weight saved versus the stock center driveshaft it really is pretty significant.

Just to clarify - So the front 8t pinion gear you say does not need to be glued whatsoever; The rear spur gear (27t,29t, or 31t) however should be glued a little? Usually I don't find it necessary to glue either gear (front or rear) to the center-driveshaft. What brand rear-spur gears are you using?

Yep this Reflex center-driveshaft is considerable light and rigid too:). I have not experience any bending or rear gears skipping with 94 Wheel Base, next month I will go back to 98mm W/B and see how it behaves.

I use ATM 29T rear Spur gear, because it is noiseless and mesh perfectly with my ATM diff.

Yes, you got it right only glue the rear spurs gear. I usually glued both, the front 8t and the rear 29t with the OME Kyosho center shaft, because I use very powerful motors as the ATM T2-35T, PN 35T & PN 37T, all of them with neo-magnets and silver Comm. I tighten my diff pretty much, specially the rear diff.
On many occasions with the OME Kyosho center-driveshaft, I have experienced a slip front 8t gear or the rear 29t came off, no matter the brand of the rear spur, it could be PN, ATM or Kyosho as well.

With this Reflex center shaft, I only am CA gluing the rear spur because it came off ones. The front ATM 8t gear fits extremely tight with the Reflex dented front tip, so tight, it is very difficult to remove even by bare hands:):D

Again thaxxx…;)
Cheers

Felix2010
2009.06.07, 04:29 AM
Yep this Reflex center-driveshaft is considerable light and rigid too:). I have not experience any bending or rear gears skipping with 94 Wheel Base, next month I will go back to 98mm W/B and see how it behaves.

I use ATM 29T rear Spur gear, because it is noiseless and mesh perfectly with my ATM diff.

Yes, you got it right only glue the rear spurs gear. I usually glued both, the front 8t and the rear 29t with the OME Kyosho center shaft, because I use very powerful motors as the ATM T2-35T, PN 35T & PN 37T, all of them with neo-magnets and silver Comm. I tighten my diff pretty much, specially the rear diff.
On many occasions with the OME Kyosho center-driveshaft, I have experienced a slip front 8t gear or the rear 29t came off, no matter the brand of the rear spur, it could be PN, ATM or Kyosho as well.

With this Reflex center shaft, I only am CA gluing the rear spur because it came off ones. The front ATM 8t gear fits extremely tight with the Reflex dented front tip, so tight, it is very difficult to remove even by bare hands:):D

Again thaxxx…;)
Cheers

I have used the stock steel centershaft for many months now. When I first got an MA010 I immediately swapped-out the stock centershaft for the Atomic hollow Ti centershaft. A great shaft with a not-so-great metal front pinion:(. Then I tried the Kyosho Ti-64 shaft with mixed results. Not too-terrible front gear mesh with the brass pinion, but the shaft itself was a tiny bit smaller in diameter than the stock steel shaft. Because of this the K Ti shaft did not fit snug inside the 2x5x2.5 driveshaft bearings, and the shaft had some play; So the rear spur never fit very tight (Aside from the Atomic spur gears). I always fought with some gear skipping in the rear.

I have used many strong motors in my AWD over time, the PN Anima, Chili, and many TSM custom wound motors to name a few. I don't run my diffs tight - I run the front medium, and the rear just tight enough that it doesn't slip. This is probably why I have not had problems with my rear spur gear coming off.

I especially like the very-tight fitment the front plastic Kyosho/Atomic 8t pinion has using the RR Ti centershaft. This is crucial IMO because the front pinion has no slot on the inside. I hate to worry about the front pinion slipping. And I don't have to with the RR shaft.:)

bamaboy379
2009.06.08, 12:51 PM
I think this upgrade is a waste of money because Tjay Macahabuay won the PN World Cup AWD Mod class with a stock drive shaft:rolleyes:

eztuner12
2009.06.08, 02:05 PM
I think this upgrade is a waste of money because Tjay Macahabuay won the PN World Cup AWD Mod class with a stock drive shaft:rolleyes:

Hi bamaboy379.

No up-grade can beat the skills of an excellent driver, but in your driving rank it can help to improve.

Cheers

bamaboy379
2009.06.08, 02:07 PM
Got hand that one to you:):D

CristianTabush
2009.06.08, 03:28 PM
I think this upgrade is a waste of money because Tjay Macahabuay won the PN World Cup AWD Mod class with a stock drive shaft:rolleyes:

The best thing about it is that you are not forced to buy one if you think you are wasting your money.

lfisminiz
2009.06.14, 01:12 PM
Great product, perfect fit.

eztuner12
2009.06.14, 01:47 PM
Great product, perfect fit.

Hi Larry

Totally agree with ya!!:)

Are ya using it on a 98mm W/B?

Hey Cristian.

At the end of the road, every one (mini-z fan) will end-up acquiring an up-grade that definitely will improve the performance outcome, as this Titanium shaft. No matter if at first, they make a baloney comment, even worst, without trying the parts first:rolleyes:.

So as the motto says; to wet words, impermeable ears;). I am referring to the comment above, regarding this RR fine product and our friend TJ.

Cheers:)

lfisminiz
2009.06.14, 07:18 PM
Richard, im running this with the Reflex 96MM set-up. My other AWD drive is 98MM. I didnt switch the drive shaft ...yet.;)

Old Crow
2009.06.14, 07:27 PM
Very nice fit and finish. Hey, same quality and strength, but less weight, certainly can't hurt. Can’t weight to try the new Ultra light weight Alum shaft.

eztuner12
2009.06.14, 07:51 PM
Richard, im running this with the Reflex 96MM set-up. My other AWD drive is 98MM. I didnt switch the drive shaft ...yet.;)

Cool, no worries:).

As soon I go back to Miami, and finally wear down the set of tries am using with the 94mm W/B ATM V-lll pan shell, I’ll go back to the 98mm W/B McLaren GTR F1 Long Tail. Which BTW, I have reduced its mass-weight to 38g, maintaining its OM looks, and will test then this RR Ti shaft on that wheelbase, I do have the impression, it will categorically perform fine too:D.

Somehow, using the ATM front S-Bar seems that the tyres will never wear-out:rolleyes:.

Thxxx…!
Cheers;)

eztuner12
2009.06.14, 08:22 PM
Richard, im running this with the Reflex 96MM set-up. My other AWD drive is 98MM. I didnt switch the drive shaft ...yet.;)

OFF TOPIC.

Too bad that the RR 96mm W/B is only to be used with the 3R rear end suspension:(, perhaps ATM eventually will produce an adapter for the SAS Pro or PN along with the soon to be released front & rear Unequal double-A- arm suspension.

I would like to try the ATM V-lll Pan shell on a longue W/B, but cutting the fenders to fit 98mm is too much and it won’t look good to me:(:rolleyes:. On the other hand, 96mm, I guess you will hardly notice the fender cut out.

I am confidently sure this V-lll pan body will be les nervous & aggressive with a longer W/B, Oh yeah:):):D

Cheers

lfisminiz
2009.06.14, 09:01 PM
Richard, sounds like you need another AWD for testing....;):D

eztuner12
2009.06.15, 12:00 AM
Richard, sounds like you need another AWD for testing....;):D

:eek: :D ;)