MZR Exclusive: GSR MRCG1.1 First Look

[color01]

Now unfortunately, I no longer have my nice photo booth setup anymore, so we'll have to suffice with "candid" pictures of the car...


Greyscale Racing MRCG1.1 Conversion Chassis


Being the tinkerers that we are at Greyscale Racing, the success of the MRCG wasn't quite enough... and thus we now present, to MZR members exclusively, a first look at the upcoming MRCG1.1.


http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/820/img0315r.jpg

The MRCG1.1 is an evolution of the original MRCG and shares all its CNC alloy parts with its older brother; however, the rest of the chassis has been completely updated for better geometry, durability, and user-friendliness.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2939/img0338hkr.jpg

As you can see, the car's CG remains the lowest of all 1/28 micro RC cars. Even in its shortest wheelbase settings (94 and 96mm), the motor remains mounted flush with the bottom of the chassis, ensuring high corner speeds and quick transitions that the MRCG is now famous for.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/3517/img0321e.jpg

One of the most significant additions to the MRCG1.1 is support for 96mm and 100mm wheelbases! 96mm has recently been a super fast configuration to run with certain bodies (350Z, NSX come to mind), so the MRCG1.1 now takes that advantage back by allowing a 96mm configuration. Along with it comes a 100mm wheelbase option for using LM, Pan-type or Lexan bodies on the MRCG on extremely large, flowing tracks. The original wheelbase configurations, 94mm and 98mm, still remain, giving the MRCG1.1 a total of four wheelbase options -- the most versatile 1/28 competition pan chassis ever.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6510/img0322ycv.jpg

The MRCG's Virtual Center Pivot suspension is back, and with better geometry it's faster than ever. First to note is the new wraparound flex plate design: this configuration reduces pod deflection to give the car even more precise, consistent handling, while it allows for the addition of "ears" to hold the center spring in place -- again increasing precision. The MRCG1.1 also introduces new rear steer spacers that allow the rear pod to dynamically assist in cornering. By purposely inducing a fraction of a degree of rear steer, entry steering becomes more aggressive and fluid, and corner speeds increase dramatically -- even more so than the original MRCG.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/3133/img0325jxg.jpg

Why are there two sets of body post mounting holes? In fact, the smaller one is for the MRCG1.1's new side spring implementation. Instead of mounting the springs to the rear pod, they can now be mounted on the chassis brace, and the smaller size allows the mounting screw to be threaded into the carbon, allowing screw-turn spring preload adjustment.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/435/img0326xuj.jpg

The MRCG1.1's new front end represents a logical evolution from the original car's. The lower L-arms have been replaced with stiffer, triangulated items to increase steering response and crispness; meanwhile, 2 degrees of caster have been incorporated into the upper bar to improve high-speed handling. Mounting anti-roll bars is a simple procedure: just replace the 5mm long screws in the front with 16mm screws, and you have the correct locations to install the anti-roll bar mounts.

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/3518/img0329y.jpg

The new tierod is slightly stiffer and stronger, featuring crossmembers to eliminate deflection. The tierod mount has also been updated to use three overlapping mounting holes instead of a slot; this prevents the assembly from shifting around if you ever happen to get hit hard enough. Also notice, by the way, that the new rear steer spacers double as battery braces, preventing the batteries from getting knocked out in a collision.

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/9461/img0313qia.jpg

Like the original MRCG, all Pan-type and Lexan bodies are a direct fit on the MRCG1.1, and you can use either standard Mini-Z body clips or body posts (not supplied) to mount them. As you can see, standard body mounting height on the MRCG1.1 is a tad lower than your average Mini-Z -- perfect for RCP, Regupol, or carpet tracks around the world.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/7316/img0337g.jpg

And of course, the MRCG1.1 would not be as unique as it is, if it were not able to mount all MR02-compatible Autoscales and white bodies. No visible modification is required at all, only shaving the sides of the body clips.


Hope you guys are ready for it. ;)

[Davey G]

I've been ready. This car looks even better then your last version. Cant wait to wheel this latest version. Congrats on the release!!

[skyler]

Hi Brian, Looks great! 2 questions: When & how much? Thanks.

[color01]

Between speaking with David (TinyRC) and Philip (PN), I think we'll have a preorder up in June, and the kits will arrive by July. Hopefully, just in time for all the summer PN Regionals. :)

As for pricing, it should be cheaper than the last PN-version MRCG, but no disk damper assembly included. We found that many customers actually didn't need the disk damper parts, so to cut down the retail price of the kit during these economic times, we'll let customers choose their own.

[MikeL]

Can you post a side by side of the old vs new?

[color01]

Erm... I... parted it out already, lol... I do have my CAD models though so if there are any details you'd like to know about, just ask. :)

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7229/oldvnew.jpg

The 1.1 is the foreground car, with the original MRCG in the back. Care to play "spot the difference?" :D

[racerlog]

The 1.1 is the foreground car, with the original MRCG in the back. Care to play "spot the difference?" :D

Looks like the car has been PN (or XRay) "optimized" with Orange parts :) j/k

[EMU]

Start with the supports in the tie rod, alloy tie rod adapter, caster on the tower bar, triangle shaped lower arms, rear steer shims/battey holders under side plates, alloy quick release, single piece side plate that holds center spring in place, no side springs but ability to install them, with self tapping hole for preload adjustment, extra hole for body post.., more screw holes on DDS plate to adjust position, and finally orange parts :p

Thats just from what I can see in the picture...

[Davey G]

Am I allowed to say that I got my car yet?? Ooops!!!!

The original kit was killer, this one is more refined and just AMAZING, just the little things that were thought of are really trick. I will post pics of the roller 2morrow. Cant wait to try it!!!

[EMU]

Am I allowed to say that I got my car yet?? Ooops!!!!

The original kit was killer, this one is more refined and just AMAZING, just the little things that were thought of are really trick. I will post pics of the roller 2morrow. Cant wait to try it!!!

You got yours already? Im waiting for mine :(

[color01]

EMU, go check out the GSR forums ASAP, I have a little something for you. :)

First official pictures of the car are trickling in; thanks go to Donziikid Photography for the excellent quality!

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i206/Donziikid/Greyscale%20MRCG%20Proto/MRCGOverviewFrontLeft.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i206/Donziikid/Greyscale%20MRCG%20Proto/MRCGFrontBulk2.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i206/Donziikid/Greyscale%20MRCG%20Proto/MRCGRearDifferentialAssembly.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i206/Donziikid/Greyscale%20MRCG%20Proto/MRCGCenterSpring.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i206/Donziikid/Greyscale%20MRCG%20Proto/MRCGLeftSide2.jpg

[ianc]

Brian, it looks very cool.

And, ummm... I want to subscribe. ;)

ianc

[Davey G]

Here is my blacked out MRCG 1.1.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/black3.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/black2.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/black1.jpg

[color01]

Looks great Dave! I'll be waiting for you to break the NYRC lap record again. ;)

[EMU]

The layout will change soon for the Atomic regional... so its more like set the lap record :p

Looks good, what did you use to color the G10 parts?

[lfisminiz]

Looks clean and organized, like it should look. Good work.:)

[Davey G]

The layout will change soon for the Atomic regional... so its more like set the lap record :p

Looks good, what did you use to color the G10 parts?

RIT Dye with boiling water. The shock even took the color too. I put some MR02 Blue parts in as well but they ALL shriveled up like a shrinky dink. :(

[Ed Roberts]

Davey, the car looks great. I will be using the Rit Dye also, this is starting to take me back to my old 12th scale days and I'm loving it.

I hoping to get one asap so I can get it ready for the PNWC in NJ. I have the tiny KO receiver, just need to buy a esc and servo.

[minittrackmann]

Dave that isn't a 2.4 board is it?

Cody

[color01]

Yes, but it certainly isn't ASF... :p


Ed- We'll do our best to get the cars out in time for you to prepare for the PNWC. :) As far as I hear from PN, the last bits of hardware are slated to arrive tomorrow, so after that I just need to start putting together kits, finalize prices, and get this show on the road. :)

[Davey G]

Dave that isn't a 2.4 board is it?

Cody

Sup Cody,

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/black1.jpg

Take notice to the micro crystal in this pic. My Spektrum SR3100 is on its way back from repair and wanted to take pictures of a finished car. The reciever in the pics is a 75mhz GWS horizonal pin version. The decased Spektrum SR3100 will be what I use though. Its the same reciever I used last time as well. See you on SAT!!

[Ed Roberts]

Thanks Brian, I look forward to running one.

[minittrackmann]

Wow, I didnt even see the crystal. I see you also have taken off the reciever plugs and directly soldered them to the reciever.

Which do you prefer. The ASF board or the ESC/RX?

Cody

[EMU]

I think if he preferred the ASF board, he would have one on the car ;)

I prefer a seperate ESC/RX over the ASF board. If anything happens to one, you can easily replace just the part that has a problem.

[Davey G]

I think if he preferred the ASF board, he would have one on the car ;)

I prefer a seperate ESC/RX over the ASF board. If anything happens to one, you can easily replace just the part that has a problem.

Yeah not just that but the 18th scale electronics have CRAZY RIIIPPP!!!

[EMU]

Oh yea, I wanted to keep that a secret Dave :p Until after the PN race at least :rolleyes:

[ScottGTO]

I am so jealous. I wish there was people to race with here in Austin.

[CristianTabush]

Start making the trek to race with us in Houston every Saturday... ;)

[bermbuster]

Start making the trek to race with us in Houston every Saturday... ;)

are you going to make the trek and race with the metro NYC guys anytime soon???

[ianc]

Hi Guys,

I have been racing Mini-Z's for quite some time, but have never built a car from a chassis like this before, and the idea is beginning to appeal to me. Is there some guide or a link that I could take a look at to get some detailed information? Any help is appreciated...

Failing that, here are some questions:

I'm thinking about what parts I'd need to get started building an MRCG. Let me know if I'm forgetting anything here:

Lexan body of some type (I'd like to give a Lexan body a shot), including a mounting system for it.
Motor
Wheels\bearings\tires
DPS\shock
Electronics
Knuckles\springs
Diff

Anything else? Remember, you're dealing with a complete noob in terms of chassis building...

Then there's electronics. Sounds like you can either use an ASF 2.4 board or buy your own individual ESC\RX. EMU makes the point that separate units will allow easier problem isolation and troubleshooting. However, if one uses a different variety of ESC\RX, would it be compatible with my existing EX1-UR with ASF module, or would I need something (?) else?

Any other tips\thoughts for a first time chassis builder? Thanks guys,

ianc

[minittrackmann]

Im pretty sure in the GSR Section there is a setup guide. This should be a good basis to start from.

As far as the lexan body. People do run them, but if you are ever planning to run in Regionals, I'm almost certain lexan is not allowed. Only either the PN Pan Car, or the VDS's.

If you do decide to get a lexan body I like the Reflex Racing Body Mounts.
Good luck.
Cody

[color01]

Hi ianc,

Somehow the thread with all the documentation got un-stickied. It's back up at the top of the page now so check it out -- we've comprehensively covered everything you need, chassis-wise, to put together an MRCG. I'll be updating that thread soon to the new documentation suitable for both MRCG and MRCG1.1.

http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29321

As for your electronics question, you are correct in that you can use either an ASF board + external servo gearbox, or completely modular electronics to set the car up. ASF + external servo gearbox is lighter and cheaper but requires a bit of precision soldering and some troubleshooting skills, since a lot can go wrong with the steering when you're doing DIY. Modular electronics are more or less plug-and-play, and have better steering response and power delivery, at the expense of weight and cost.

If you really want the full experience and have the money, I'd recommend going to fully modular electronics. However, you will need a new module for your EX-1UR that needs to be compatible with whatever receiver you're using -- the ASF module is for the ASF board only, and doesn't work with other 2.4GHz receivers.


Anyways, start off by going to the link I posted above; the original MRCG has treated many other first-time chassis builders well, so I suspect that even the original documentation will be more than satisfactory. ;)

[ianc]

Hi Brian,

Thanks very much for the link to the docs. I'll be downloading and taking a look at these and will post back with any further questions I might have.

Please do post here when you've updated the docs to support V1.1.

I think I'll probably be leaning toward using an ASF board at this point simply to avoid purchasing and futzing around with another module.

Thanks again for your help!

ianc

[ianc]

Hi Brian,

I've read over the documentation you've linked to and all seems fairly straightforward; lots of good info there. I'll be looking forward to the V1.1 docs when you get a chance to put them up.

As I mentioned previously, I would probably use an ASF board here, but I'm unclear on the specific arrangements for that. For example, it sounds like the ASF board's FET's are still used, but are wired to an external servo motor instead of using the stock servo motor? Are there some recommendations for servos? Any docs for doing the work? I'm pretty good with a soldering iron, having done numerous FET upgrades and repairs, but some hints would be appreciated.

Perhaps a suggestion might be to add a document specifically related to electronics choice and implementation to the already extensive selection. This seems to be the only thing you haven't covered in detail. Unless it's already somewhere else... ;)

Thanks for the help,

ianc

[color01]

You're correct, the ASF board's servo control circuitry is used rather than the aftermarket servo's internal board.

The info for the conversion is in the "color0's MRCG" thread: http://www.mini-zracer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=338626&postcount=30

You basically transplant the ASF board's servo wires from the Mini-Z servo motor and pot, to the new servo motor and pot. The one pictured in that link is an S3113, but I recommend using an S3114 instead because it has a smaller casing and seems to be more precise (that may also be because my S3113 has taken plenty of hits).

We haven't ever published an official "how to convert your servo" guide yet, mainly because there are way too many servos and electronics combinations out there... but it's probably a better idea than pointing all our customers to the same thread time and time again. :o

[arch2b]

there are only so many wire color options for this conversion. that is by far the hardest info to find often and the most important. get that database input and the rest is a short video tutorial :) this is for servo to mini-z pcb converstions...

[ianc]

Hi Brian,

A small doc on wiring in the s3113 or s3114 with wire colors would be a big help when the time comes. You could always add to it or start a DB as Arch suggests if you get more data.

Another thing I'm wondering about is the battery pack. I reckon you would need to solder 4 AAA's together to make the pack, but I have no idea what one would use to charge that. Can you enlighten me?

I'm definitely going to pick one of these up when they're available, so please post here when they're in stock. Thanks for the help,

ianc

[minittrackmann]

Mini Deans is the most popular.

[ianc]

Mini Deans is the most popular

Most popular what?

ianc

[EMU]

You can get a good mid range charger to charge them. Using a micro deans connector, or make small tabs on the outside batteries and use alligator clips. That would be for a direct connection, where you wouldnt use a plug, and would have to solder/desolder the power wire every run to charge or remove the pack.

I use the micro deans plugs personally. And have adapters for alligator clips for my charging trays.

[ianc]

Thanks for the info Eugene!

So What I'm getting is that if you use the Micro Dean's plugs to connect the battery pack to the ASF board to provide power, then you can use that same plug to connect to your charger for charging. Question is, what type of unit would be used to charge the pack? i have 3 AAA chargers that I use to charge batts for my Mini-Z's. Could one of them be adapted, or does it require a special charger of some type?

Got any pics? ;)

Thanks again,

ianc

[minittrackmann]

You do need a special type of charger.

Some common chargers:
Duratrax Ice
Team Checkpoint
Muchmore
Thunder Power TP-610C

These are all pretty common chargers.

[EMU]

For a cheap good charger, the Duratrax Onyx 220 is pretty good, being that it is AC/DC. So you dont need a seperate Power Supply Unit.

[-J-]

For a cheap good charger, the Duratrax Onyx 220 is pretty good, being that it is AC/DC. So you dont need a seperate Power Supply Unit.

Yep, though having to enter the charging parameters every time you charge a different battery does get pretty tedious.

[color01]

And for that reason there's also the Duratrax Piranha Digital Peak AC/DC, good charger with the very useful feature of charge profile memory. :)

[ianc]

Well, I pulled the trigger from Kenon this AM. Somewhat pricier than I'd expected, but whaddya gonna do if you wanna go fast... ;)

I'm sure an avalanche of questions will follow...

ianc

[arch2b]

Well, I pulled the trigger from Kenon this AM. Somewhat pricier than I'd expected, but whaddya gonna do if you wanna go fast... ;)

I'm sure an avalanche of questions will follow...

ianc

not sure anyone has noticed but these are now available in the shop her (http://tinyrc.com/ads/www/delivery/ck.php?oaparams=2__bannerid=9__zoneid=2__cb=2148e7 a7c1__oadest=http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=19971)e as well! even had a rotating ad banner for them.

[EMU]

Yep, though having to enter the charging parameters every time you charge a different battery does get pretty tedious.

I am pretty sure that there are different memories. Its been a little while since I have used mine. . .

[ianc]

not sure anyone has noticed but these are now available in the shop here as well!

I did not notice that, no. I would have if Brian had posted it though... ;)

Too bad, I could have saved a penny!

ianc

[color01]

Too bad, I could have saved a penny!
Literally. :p Enjoy the car, Ian!

[mini-z]

I did not notice that, no. I would have if Brian had posted it though... ;)

Too bad, I could have saved a penny!

ianc

Actually guys, not sure if that's accurate - shipping is free from shop.tinyrc.com but I don't think it is from Kenon - so you could have saved hundreds of times more! :D

[ianc]

Shipping is definitely NOT free from Kenon, and there's also that nasty CA state tax. If only I'd known sooner...

Brian,

Another question for you: I remember reading somewhere (here? dunno...) that it's a good idea to coat the exposed side edges of the chassis plates with some material to inhibit cracking and increase durability.

What should I use for that? Would like to do it before I begin assembly... Thanks for the help,

ianc

[CristianTabush]

Ian, sand the edges with fine grit sandpaper (at least 600) and then use a q-tip to apply superglue all around the edges. This is mostly important on the big chassis pieces (main plate, motor mount, etc) in order to prevent premature de-lamination of the cf.

[ianc]

Thanks for the info Christian (as usual). I'll give that a shot!

ianc

[color01]

Cristian got to it first. :) I'll put this up in the FAQ for future reference.