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Pierro
2009.05.10, 03:14 PM
Hello!

I'm about to get a limited edition MR02 chassis and I'm not sure wich body to put on this one.

Can I put a LM mazda body on it? I'm afraid the shock will not fit under the shell...

What will be the offset needed for this shell on a regular MR 02 chassis?

Pierro
2009.05.12, 02:26 AM
No idea? :confused:

hrdrvr
2009.05.12, 07:08 AM
I just got to see one for the first time the other day. I would think that the body would be very tight over the oil shock, as it looks like it sits higher than the standard shock on the LM kits. It looks like its a little further forward though, and maybe thats to clear the low end of the body.

My dad runs a regular rear pod on his Mazda, and he had to trim a hole where the DDS post is, as it would rub on the top of the car. The new set up (again I havent worked on one, just seen it) on the special edition series, should be able to be treated similarly.

Pierro
2009.05.12, 08:12 AM
Hello!

Thanks a lot hrdrvr. I was afraid someone told me something like this. The option shock seems very high compared to the stock one of an LM body.As we can see on these pictures:

http://www.rccaraction.com/Media/BlogMembers/MR02LM%2010.jpg

http://www.rceasy.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/30450spa-500x333.jpg

Another point is the pod itself as the mazda is a really low body.
If someone is using this kind of set-up, all inputs are welcome.

JuniorWKR
2009.05.12, 08:21 AM
Hello!

I'm about to get a limited edition MR02 chassis and I'm not sure wich body to put on this one.

Can I put a LM mazda body on it? I'm afraid the shock will not fit under the shell...

What will be the offset needed for this shell on a regular MR 02 chassis?

the shock will fit with some minor shaving of the inside of the body (will not see on outside)... +1 front and +2 rear... the pn 21mm rears are a nice choice as theyu will give you alittle more top end.. if you ever run into a situation where a shock wont fit go with the atm top shock or for the real low bodies go with the F1 top shock...

with the way the limited edition chassis comes i dont believe you will make a 102mm wheel base... i may be wrong but i dont believe you can pass 98mm with that set up... you can always run the lm body at 98mm which i have done and it handles well also..

hrdrvr
2009.05.12, 09:33 AM
You can see the extra set of holes in the DDS plates that would allow it to be moved back for a longer wheel base. I dont see why you couldnt run it under an LM body at 102mm, other than having to change the rear wheel offsets, or shim the LM dff into that mount.

Also, just to clarify on the Mazda I was talking about, the shock isnt in the way at all. Its the damper post the the shock mounts to at the rear that hits.

You can see the hole we had to make for clearance in this pic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Daddy%20Rabbit/2009-05-11077.jpg

JuniorWKR
2009.05.12, 09:36 AM
what pod are you using...

hrdrvr
2009.05.12, 09:51 AM
^ PN 98/102 LCG mount with a shimmed LM ball diff.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Daddy%20Rabbit/2009-05-11095.jpg

Its actually my dads car, but I spend a lot of time helping him set his cars up, and I get quite a bit of wheel time with them. Its a very fun and easy car to drive, and it turns some pretty impressive lap times.

Oh, and FWIW, I dont thi k running a smaller/lower shock would help. The mounting screw will have to be at this level, unless you tighten it down for more preload on the top spring.

JuniorWKR
2009.05.12, 10:08 AM
with that pod you are using make sure the dps post is in the foward most hole which will enable you to run your top plate set up at 94mm which in return will move the post 2mm fowards and ther will be no need to dremel body... this will also aid in moving the weight alittle more foward and should give you a bit more rotation then turning...

Pierro
2009.05.12, 03:19 PM
Hello!
Thanks a lot for your improvement guys. After some negociation with my LHS, it appears that an LM chassis with a full option should be more affordable for me. (The limited one was from another shop but I could reach a better deal with my favorite HS)

So I will go with a set-up like the one of your dad hrdrvr. A LM body with PN V4 pod, dps and a PN dif. So basically, I will check out the mounting screw as soon as I get it and if it bind, try to reduce that with my dremel. Thanks to your pics I know I can make it rather clean if I have to.

The only problem now is to find a kind wheel set at the right offset as I couldn't use the stock one with he PN dif.

hrdrvr
2009.05.13, 06:55 AM
with that pod you are using make sure the dps post is in the foward most hole which will enable you to run your top plate set up at 94mm which in return will move the post 2mm fowards and ther will be no need to dremel body... this will also aid in moving the weight alittle more foward and should give you a bit more rotation then turning...

Its in the front hole, but it still rubs. On the ASC version of the 787, all we had to do was thin the plastic a little, but when I mounted this white body, I mounted it lower than stock, and thus the problem got worse and more noticable. I notice though, that some of our guys running ASCs still have had to put that hole in it. If you run that top spring without much preload, the screw going to hit the body, IME.


Hello!
Thanks a lot for your improvement guys. After some negociation with my LHS, it appears that an LM chassis with a full option should be more affordable for me. (The limited one was from another shop but I could reach a better deal with my favorite HS)

So I will go with a set-up like the one of your dad hrdrvr. A LM body with PN V4 pod, dps and a PN dif. So basically, I will check out the mounting screw as soon as I get it and if it bind, try to reduce that with my dremel. Thanks to your pics I know I can make it rather clean if I have to.

The only problem now is to find a kind wheel set at the right offset as I couldn't use the stock one with he PN dif.

Its always good to support the LHS! Im glad they are helping you head in the right direction. I agree that the LM kit will be more affordable, and FWIW, the LM pod, wheels, and tires actually perform really well. You dont 'have' to upgrade to the PN goods to make your car good. We recently had a LM point series, and the top two finishers were both running the stock pods and gear diffs :D

Pierro
2009.05.13, 09:05 AM
Hello!

For me, the pod is strictly to have a better gear mesh.
On my other 02, I was so surprised when I get the atomic V3 pod. The car was so smooth and silent. With the x-speed, I mostly hear the tire rubbing on the RCP other than the motor. :eek:

And the PN dif is on its way to get the 64 pitch in future. I'm a true gear diff fan on my other 02. With a Q-tech holder I really don't need any adjustment as opposed to a ball dif.

This car will be my development car for month. I need to find out if I can beat my AWD and get that damned second I miss on our track in order to stick with the 02's time. Hope I can finally get them. Or I'll definitly need to get new fingers! :D

About the offset, it seems a +1front +3 rear is the way to go on a normal dif. I will give it a try with my countach wheels and see if this is good before ordering some defnitive wheels.

So, I only need to wait for my new mazda Efini to come now. I would have prefered a Blue one but they're out of stock at the moment and as it's supposed to race, it will get hurt anyway...

JuniorWKR
2009.05.13, 09:09 AM
try +1 front and +2 rear on reg rear diff... the car is very long and i find with +3 rears the car tends to front steer and not rotate... IMO...

bmxtrev
2009.05.17, 10:28 PM
^ PN 98/102 LCG mount with a shimmed LM ball diff.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/freekfornature/RCs/Daddy%20Rabbit/2009-05-11095.jpg

Its actually my dads car, but I spend a lot of time helping him set his cars up, and I get quite a bit of wheel time with them. Its a very fun and easy car to drive, and it turns some pretty impressive lap times.

Oh, and FWIW, I dont thi k running a smaller/lower shock would help. The mounting screw will have to be at this level, unless you tighten it down for more preload on the top spring.

Sorry that this is completely off topic, but that body is sooo sweet. :0

Running the stock shock on my modified rm02 I found I had to shave and trim the body and/or shock to stop them from hitting. In extreme cases, cutting a hole seems to work, as shown above.

Pierro
2009.05.18, 02:50 AM
Hello!

Got my new chassis this week-end. I should get my mazda within the week, we'll see...

And so, I put all my goodies together, chassis, alum knuckles, PN V4 98-102 motor pod and PN friction damper 94-98.

I've had a hole of the chassis top that decide to give up at the first try so I already need a small parts kit... Never had this issue before (except on my first smoke AWD chassis where I thighten the screws a little too much)

As I haven't any top shock, I use one of the nut provided as a spacer on the top side of the damper. I had quite a reflexion time to decide how to get this damper to be set right on the car. I finally decide to put the damper plate under the shock plate (the one that looks like a Y). On the little picture given with the damper it's the Y one right on the chassis then the damper one on it but in this configuration, the bottom disc don't even touch the plate.
I would see if this still can work with a top shock in this configuration later.

Does someone using this pod and damper has the same "problem" with the plates? Or am I wrong with the way I set it?

hrdrvr
2009.05.18, 07:41 AM
^ If you look at my dads car, I had to put the 'Y' on top of the main plate as well. With this body, motor pod, and damper, it needs to be mounted that way. You could shim the post up off of the motor mount for a different body, but in the Mazdas case, it would only compound the clearance issue.

Some other motor pods have adjustable height for the damper post mount, in which you can adjust it to get the right amount of pressure on the bottom spring without the use of shims.

Pierro
2009.05.18, 09:35 AM
Hello!

In fact I can't see your pictures at work. (Bad guys surfing on the web at work :p)
I'll check that at home.

Also a friend of mine told me he has no clearance issue with the atomic damper. I'll wait for my body to come and then have a look at this possible trouble with the original screw and see if the atomic damper has a real advantage here (if I find the need for a damper).
If no, I'll try to simply swap a screw that hold the H-plate and use it on top of the post.

Pierro
2009.05.19, 01:34 AM
Hello!

I checked your pics hrdrvr. Thanks for posting it.

I have tested the original damper on the chassis as you did but I found it too stiff for me. I will give a try to the chassis without it and then with it anyway but at first sigh I found it to push back the pod a little too much.
I had to fix it to the middle hole and a perfect fit would have been between the first en middle.

On the other hand it appears that I will finally have a blue mazda. The official importer made a mistake when my LHS asked for the autoscale. They still have a few in stock. So, I'll wait a week more to get my body of choice.

Edit: Found out the original offset on the car to be 1.3 front (so 1 or even 2 may fit) and 0 rear (so +2 or even +3 may fit).
Compared to the porsche body where the offset are +2 front and 0.8 rear where a friend of mine put +2 and +3

Pierro
2009.05.26, 02:37 AM
Hello!

Some news on my chassis. My mazda body is finally here.
I use the wheels of my countach and it seems rather cool. But for my liking I would prefer +1.5 or even +2 front and +2.5 rear.

The rear wheel is a little too exposed I think (and +2 seems not enough, at least for me). We'll see on the track.
About the front wheel, I do prefer a little too "in" in order to prevent any rub and direct hit in the direction system. I'll try with more offset later.

I also put an atomic damper on the chassis. This one fit without any rub on the shell. But on the other hand, the body is a little too high so next step will be a fine tune on suspension and body height. It's a Lemans car, not an overland! :D

Pierro
2009.05.27, 01:42 PM
Hello!

A few pics of the carin it's current state. Before any settings and even not paired with my EX-1.:D

The body itself:
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6921/spa0155f.jpg (http://img39.imageshack.us/my.php?image=spa0155f.jpg)

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/2213/spa0154e.jpg (http://img39.imageshack.us/my.php?image=spa0154e.jpg)

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/8176/spa0153f.jpg (http://img39.imageshack.us/my.php?image=spa0153f.jpg)

The chassis:
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/5129/spa0156i.jpg (http://img39.imageshack.us/my.php?image=spa0156i.jpg)

The atomic damper:
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6543/spa0158.jpg (http://img39.imageshack.us/my.php?image=spa0158.jpg)