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stevenh
2009.05.19, 02:39 PM
I encountered an issue over the weekend where the transmitter would not start up properly... Usually there would be a beep sound when the transmitter is turned on, that wasn't happening anymore.
I tried resetting the transmitter but no effect.
I tried putting it into pairing mode, but the light would not stay dimmed, it would just go to full brightness but no beep.
I tried taking batteries out and back in, no change.
I took the batteries out and left it for a while, now it works fine again.
Has anyone seen this issue?
Thanks

Steven

jb1
2009.05.20, 09:58 PM
My transmitter didn't have that set of symptoms, but it worked for a while and then stopped pairing. I spent a lot of time (& money) trying different things that I thought might fix the glitching problems I was having before it stopped pairing. When I finally accepted that the electronics were most likely defective, I sent both the transmitter and an ASF chassis to kyoshoamerica. I shipped on 5/6/09 and received the repaired units on 5/19/09. (There was a slight delay because I didn't include receipts in the package, so I had to fax them.) I was very pleased with their customer service and the speedy turn-around time.

If you believe it's a defect (and not abuse), you probably should send it to kyoshoamerica; the sooner you send it, the sooner you'll get it back.

FWIW, they replaced the defective electronics in both the transmitter and ASF chassis, and both work fine now-- no more glitching, and cars find the transmitter instantly. Maybe I was just unlucky, but I thought that was an awfully high defect ratio for my purchase of 2 ASF cars & 1 transmitter! But as long as Kyosho has such good customer service, it alleviates a lot of my concerns.

-Jim

stevenh
2009.05.21, 02:07 AM
Was your car modified in any way? Not sure what their warranty position would be if I had after market parts on it etc?

jb1
2009.05.21, 05:20 AM
Was your car modified in any way? Not sure what their warranty position would be if I had after market parts on it etc?

I restored the chassis back to stock configuration (LM->RM) before sending it in, mainly because I didn't know if they were going to repair or replace (they repaired), and I didn't want to risk my investment in the aftermarket parts. As I see it, the mechanical upgrades (bearings, ball diff) were irrelevant to the nature of the problem, which was clearly electronic (AFAIK, no mechanical binding to stall the motor to draw huge current, etc.). I hadn't changed the motor, but even if I had, the ASF electronics are supposed to be robust enough to handle more current.

Since I'd had the chassis for less than 2 weeks and hadn't done anything radical to it, I knew that it wasn't my fault. Most likely, the electronics had some marginal components that hadn't been weeded out at the factory with a burn-in period. Defective components will typically fail during this period; those that pass are usually good for the long haul.

Electronics should be able to handle the rigors of normal operating conditions (which don't include dropping, operation underwater, in a blast furnace, or in strong electrical/magnetic/radiation/gravitational fields). Assuming a solid circuit design, electronics shouldn't glitch or randomly/intermittently conk out, unless there's an underlying problem with construction or component(s). These are the sort of problems that could grow and cause a cascade failure of other components. Although solid state components do age and fail, that usually doesn't happen for many, many years. Digital flash memory devices do have a limited number of write cycles, but it would take hundreds of thousands of pairing cycles for that to be an issue.

-Jim