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Programmers
2009.11.02, 05:46 PM
Almost a week after receiving it and I finally got to drive my MR03 on the track tonight. Out of the box, the only mod is standard steel bearings. Also, for the record I was using a Murcielago body, k20 rears and k30 fronts (slick).

One of the first things I did was weigh it. It came in at a surprisingly light, 87.2 grams.

Then I give it a quick spin around the living room and thought it was too quick for a 6 tooth. So I geared it up to a 9 tooth. It put down 28kph on the dyno. Considering it's a fresh, not-broken in motor, I thought that was amazing.

I also tested the reverse, which seemed perfect. However, I feel you can never be too sure when you're not under race pressure. I also found the original 2.4 reversed well when you expected the reverse situation, but when you crashed in a race it was poor.

So, the track stuff...

First of all, with my very fast and expensive AWD and Helios EX-10 I was setting 5.1 second laps with a very best of 4.88 and a massive push.

Then, I got out my MR03 for the very first time with a very simple KT-18 and on my fourth lap I put down a 4.85. It took some time to get used to the responsiveness this car had, but come the end of the night I was consistently lapping 4.9 laps with a top lap of 4.77 towards the end.

This was without any swish bearings and half decent batteries!

Also to take into consideration was a huge bump in the track that sent the car about 5-10mm into the air each lap mid corner. However, amazingly, the MR03 just sucked it up and ploughed on!

I can't wait to get this beast on the track Sunday and do some serious racing!

Other issues that have been mentioned in other threads were the run times. Well, my Duracell 900's were lasting a solid 25-30 minutes of good racing with a 9 tooth gear ratio. Then, unusually, my batteries were just dying - out of nowhere. Never seen this before with my batteries, but it happened to two sets. Just completely flat all of a sudden.

Anyone else experienced this?

The final point to raise is the reverse issue. There's been a lot of talk whether it has been improved or not improved.

I have to say I think it has improved 110%.

The terrible reverse issue in the original 2.4 put me right off and I was soon back to AM. This however, is a complete mind-changer.

The reverse is now the same as an AM car and it very rarely has moments where it freezes. I made a quick video to demonstrate this:

I apologise for the quality:

MR03 Reverse Demo (http://staffordminizracers.co.uk/video_gallery/mr03_reverse_demo)

Any feedback or discussion is more than welcome! :D

Tjay
2009.11.02, 06:04 PM
I also tested the reverse, which seemed perfect. However, I feel you can never be too sure when you're not under race pressure. I also found the original 2.4 reversed well when you expected the reverse situation, but when you crashed in a race it was poor.
The car that I used had an "AM" reverse. I think it was waaay too fast for me.

So, the track stuff...

First of all, with my very fast and expensive AWD and Helios EX-10 I was setting 5.1 second laps with a very best of 4.88 and a massive push.

Then, I got out my MR03 for the very first time with a very simple KT-18 and on my fourth lap I put down a 4.85. It took some time to get used to the responsiveness this car had, but come the end of the night I was consistently lapping 4.9 laps with a top lap of 4.77 towards the end.

When I use to race awd, I'd bring it out when I know the track it tight. For some reason, awd likes lock-to-lock steering and you get tons of off-power steering from this chassis. If you're doing faster laps with your 2wd car vs awd, then that is very impressive!

Also to take into consideration was a huge bump in the track that sent the car about 5-10mm into the air each lap mid corner. However, amazingly, the MR03 just sucked it up and ploughed on!

SWEEEET! :D


Other issues that have been mentioned in other threads were the run times. Well, my Duracell 900's were lasting a solid 25-30 minutes of good racing with a 9 tooth gear ratio. Then, unusually, my batteries were just dying - out of nowhere. Never seen this before with my batteries, but it happened to two sets. Just completely flat all of a sudden.

Anyone else experienced this?

I usually stand on the driver stand until the batts are almost completely gone... I didn't notice any runtime difference between 02 and 03. If there is, it could be minimal to where it is not noticeable.

Thank you for sharing!

herman
2009.11.02, 08:23 PM
hey tom thanks for the review...

saw the reverse function in the video you posted... it looks like the reverse delay is pretty quick... and the reverse speed is fast... is there a brake function before the reverse kicks in??? or is it like the original mr01, where it switches into reverse right away?

Programmers
2009.11.03, 08:19 AM
I usually stand on the driver stand until the batts are almost completely gone... I didn't notice any runtime difference between 02 and 03. If there is, it could be minimal to where it is not noticeable.
There wasn't a runtime difference, just a really odd drop off. For example, I can normally notice my batteries going over a course of 10-15 minutes. However, they felt full for about 15 minutes then just completely died! Similar to the way they do at 10th...

saw the reverse function in the video you posted... it looks like the reverse delay is pretty quick... and the reverse speed is fast... is there a brake function before the reverse kicks in??? or is it like the original mr01, where it switches into reverse right away?
It goes straight into reverse man, MR01 style-ee!

MINI-D
2009.11.03, 08:22 AM
Hi tom,
did you have issues with frontend binding?

Thank you

D

mk2kompressor
2009.11.03, 09:52 AM
it does brake first then reverse like an mr02:)

Half
2009.11.03, 03:32 PM
It goes straight into reverse man, MR01 style-ee!

it does brake first then reverse like an mr02

I think there is a function on kt-18 that does trigger between both styles of going into reverse. not sure tho, my mr3 hasn't arrived yet...

yscheong
2009.11.03, 05:32 PM
MR03 is a very good car.

I had opened and tune my MR03 1 day before our friendly race. And I get 1st place in race. Race proven MR03......

Programmers
2009.11.03, 05:34 PM
Hi tom,
did you have issues with frontend binding?

Thank you

D
Not yet, at it's stock! :D

herman
2009.11.03, 08:16 PM
MR03 is a very good car.

I had opened and tune my MR03 1 day before our friendly race. And I get 1st place in race. Race proven MR03......

what did you do to your 03? you're from malaysia right? how much does it cost over there? any pics or vids?

Phenochilus
2009.11.04, 03:58 AM
I think there is a function on kt-18 that does trigger between both styles of going into reverse. not sure tho, my mr3 hasn't arrived yet...

Yes, it's definitely the brake strength adjustment on the kt-18 that can switch it to reverse like the mr-01

yscheong
2009.11.07, 06:39 PM
what did you do to your 03? you're from malaysia right? how much does it cost over there? any pics or vids?

I had just take out the rear motor mount from one of my car, change Kyosho t plate. Setting the damper plate spring. Front is stock standard, stock spring, stock king pin......

Here is the pic of my MR03, just change to Kyosho balldiff with ti shaft during race.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/yscheong/New%20Item/29102009246.jpg

I let other test drive the car, everyone love it.....

Bodom
2010.09.08, 06:25 AM
Yes, it's definitely the brake strength adjustment on the kt-18 that can switch it to reverse like the mr-01

I know it's an old thread, but I think my question would go well on-topic here.

I have an MR-03 and KT-18 from a week and I noticed the following problem:
Sometimes the brake function works fine, sometimes the car goes directly into reverse. Why is that?

How does the brake strength adjustment function on the transmitter affects that behaviour?

I tried to adjust the brake strength function on my KT-18 transmitter and maybe I messed it up - because I didn't have this problem before I touched this setting on the transmitter (or at least It didn't catch my mind).

In the manual it's written that you have to push the throttle rod all the way toward brake/reverse direction and then to use the throttle trim buttons to adjust the brake strength function. I assume that this must be done while the car is powered on. But does the car have to be in brake or in reverse?
I can go from neutral position to reverse (the car goes full throttle in reverse) - and then adjust the trim - OR - I can go forward, then reverse all the way (this will make the car activate the brake) and then adjust the trim (while the car's rear tires are braked). Which way is correct?

And of course - does this brake strength function has something to do with my problem?

Thanks for reading this long post :p

Scrapper
2010.09.08, 09:47 AM
there is a delay for reverse with 2.4

Bodom
2010.09.08, 01:34 PM
there is a delay for reverse with 2.4

It's not that.
I reseted the transmitter and the problem disappeared.

Now remains the question - what is the right way to adjust brake strength function?

Scrapper
2010.09.08, 02:18 PM
oh sometimes there can be glitchy things going on with the transmitters that go away with a off and on

Bodom
2010.09.08, 03:00 PM
oh sometimes there can be glitchy things going on with the transmitters that go away with a off and on

No, not off and on. I followed the reset procedure - holding one of the throttle trim buttons down (not the pairing one), then turning the transmitter on while holding the trim button for 3 seconds more.

I believe I messed up something with touching the brake strength adjustment function but don't know what.

kryten
2010.09.08, 05:31 PM
P23 in your kt-18 manual. Hold the brake on full on the tx and use the throttle trim to adjust. A gives less brakes,B gives more brakes.

Bodom
2010.09.09, 03:33 AM
In the manual it's written that you have to push the throttle rod all the way toward brake/reverse direction and then to use the throttle trim buttons to adjust the brake strength function. I assume that this must be done while the car is powered on. But does the car have to be in brake or in reverse?
I can go from neutral position to reverse (the car goes full throttle in reverse) - and then adjust the trim - OR - I can go forward, then reverse all the way (this will make the car activate the brake) and then adjust the trim (while the car's rear tires are braked). Which way is correct?


I'll quote myself.
Which way is correct? Or both will work the same way?

kryten
2010.09.09, 03:44 AM
Do it while the car has the brakes applied. Other wise you will be adjusting the reverse,not the brake.

EMU
2010.09.09, 01:30 PM
Is there a difference whether the car is braking or it is going in reverse? I thought that you were only adjusting the high point to the reverse travel. It is the car that chooses brake or reverse, not the transmitter, correct?

Tjay
2010.09.09, 05:18 PM
Perfect, I was looking for this thread.

I'm not sure if there's any difference between last years batch and recent MR03 batch... My question is for the new MR03 owners but not new to mini-z. ;)

Have you guys encountered steering or throttle glitch with you new MR03? I haven't seen any post about this issue lately and I am thinking of investing into a new MR03 to use for modified class (keyword is: "thinking". lol). Input is greatly appreciated.

FYI... I dont have any issues with my 1st batch MR03 (because we fixed it last year). I just want to know if the off the box MR03 is as good as what I already have. Thanks!!!

JuniorWKR
2010.09.09, 06:37 PM
i have 3 mr03's and only one of them has a glitch at full throttle... it seems as soon as the motor hits full speed it consistently does this quick jerk to the left... evertime down the straight... cant figure it out...

EMU
2010.09.09, 07:04 PM
I havent had any glitching on the newest MR03's that I have. My first one had it a little, but it doesnt anymore...

wight
2010.09.10, 01:33 AM
i have 3 mr03's and only one of them has a glitch at full throttle... it seems as soon as the motor hits full speed it consistently does this quick jerk to the left... evertime down the straight... cant figure it out...

Got the same on my AWD 2.4ghz.
It's the motor on mine.Changed it and now no glitches.
However the same motor is fine on my mr02 2.4ghz and the AWD stops glitching with the motor pulled out away from the board a little.
These are standard Kyosho motors.

Bodom
2010.09.10, 05:50 AM
Mine 03 is brand new and is my first 2.4 Z.
Its steering glitches a little bit when the batteries get weak. The throttle is stable.
With fresh batteries it doesn't glitch at all. But this glitches are way too small compared to my AM AWD, which glitches a lot on steering and throttle when the car gets a little bit far away from the transmitter..