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Mania
2009.11.18, 04:04 PM
On the bottom of my chassis, the right screw (not-differential side) for holding the H-plate onto the main chassis is stripped, meaning I can pull the screw in and out without have to twist it, so the rear end is now tilted and the car tweaks.

Is there any way to remedy this, besides buying a new chassis?

yasuji
2009.11.18, 04:13 PM
On the bottom of my chassis, the right screw (not-differential side) for holding the H-plate onto the main chassis is stripped, meaning I can pull the screw in and out without have to twist it, so the rear end is now tilted and the car tweaks.

Is there any way to remedy this, besides buying a new chassis?

PN Racing high clamp force t-bar mount;)

Traveler
2009.11.18, 04:16 PM
That sucks! I have had the same problem. Here are some solutions.

Least expensive. Put some CA glue on the tip of a toothpick and coat the sidewall of the screw hole lightly. You may have to build up a few layers. Once its dry, it may hold the screw. Just don't get any CA on unintended parts and be sure not to glue screw in place or you'll never get it out.

Option #2 - Find a screw with slightly wider diameter that might hold in enlarged hole.

Option #3 - PN makes a solution for this called a High Clamp Force T-Bar Mount Part# MR2035 Cost $10.

Good luck!

Mania
2009.11.18, 04:23 PM
Oh, thanks a bunch.

I'll try the CA method, and if that doesn't work, I'll invest in that T-bar mount, I suppose.

LED
2009.11.18, 05:26 PM
If you are planning to change H-plates often get the T-bar mount.
I have it on both my cars, very worth the money.
Its no longer screws in plastic but bolts in metal.

The glue will help, but only till you loosen the screws next time.

Seriously, order the mount :p

JeremyC
2009.11.18, 05:44 PM
If you are planning to change H-plates often get the T-bar mount.
I have it on both my cars, very worth the money.
Its no longer screws in plastic but bolts in metal.

The glue will help, but only till you loosen the screws next time.

Seriously, order the mount :p

I have done the CA trick on a couple stripped holes, and I can attest that it works, but is a temporary fix. The H-plate mount is critically important, so you should either get a new chassis or get the PN mount.

The PN mount will use the chassis holes for the next longer wheelbase, and you then use machine screws to attach the H-plate. tinyrc has them here (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=19773&cat=0&page=1).

http://shop.tinyrc.com/d_images/PN-MR2035-A.JPG

wildthing
2009.11.18, 06:13 PM
I haven't done this in mini Z plastic but in my tamiya TT01 plastic tub, I always use this technique -

I'll screw the metal screw halfway and will use the soldering iron to heat the screw... the heat will transfer to the screw and melt the plastic surrounding it ... thus re-creating the "thread". Do not over heat the thread or else the plastic will "shrink" out of shape.

Usually, I closely observe if the plastic starts to show melting (usually within a minute) ... then I remove the soldering iron and blow the screw to cool it fast (do not touch the screw because it can accidentally deform the melted plastic). When the screw is totally cooled down, I can now remove the screw and put things back. Usually it will hold up like brandnew.

In the case of my mini Z, this is how I will do it:

1) I'll remove the t-plate.
2) Re-screw the screw half way.
3) Heat up the screw head with my soldering iron... and so on as explained above.

MantisMMA
2009.11.19, 10:56 AM
one of the techniques i came up with from years of slot car racing is that, you take a small drill (small enough to drop in the hole) and drill all the way through the hole. what this does is allows the ca to seep through instead of trying to force its way back through the top. another tip is whenever you buy a new chassis always drill through all of the holes before you put a screw in them! and when you finally put a screw in put a drop of some kind of light oil in the hole!

LogicBytes
2009.11.19, 01:40 PM
A Tip for this suggested by a guy at my track is to wrap the threads on the screw with some teflon tape.

Mania
2009.11.19, 04:56 PM
I got a slightly wider screw and fitted it in, so now the hole works again, but for some reason, my car is still sitting a bit lower on the diff side.

When it's level, I can push it down both sides, but when I push it towards the diff side, it seems to return not completely to the center point, so it's slanted.

Any idea what's going on?

MantisMMA
2009.11.20, 12:17 AM
probably got some tweak, you gotta shim it until it is even

JeremyC
2009.11.20, 10:22 AM
probably got some tweak, you gotta shim it until it is even

Is there any plastic on the outside of the screw hole? Make sure that this is very clean and flat..

-Jer

Mania
2009.11.20, 03:07 PM
I sanded the sides of the screw holes, and now it sits pretty much even, but the car is still tweaking to the left (non diff side), and after running it a bit, it'll naturally sag towards the right again.

I'm confused.

LED
2009.11.20, 04:50 PM
Did you try another H-bar? It could be damaged without you seeing it.

Mania
2009.11.20, 06:13 PM
I don't have any other H plates. The original broke.