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View Full Version : MA-010 RCP setup with Atomic hop-ups


Atomic-USA
2010.02.11, 07:46 PM
I have been running my AWD with great success for the last several months at 2 local tracks. I am writing a guide to help people pick the option parts they need according to their budget. I hope this can help the community.

*This setup suits my driving style and you may disagree with my theory, etc....Keep in mind this is just a guide. Each post here allows a maximum of 10 items and photos so I'll have to break it up into multiple posts.

Stage 1: (minimal amount of hop-up parts/tricks to make MA010 as competitive as other 2WD on RCP, without breaking the wallet)


I run 94mm and sometimes 98mm setup. I don't have a preference at this time.

For MA-010 you usually need a faster motor to keep up with the 2WD. Atomic motors are optimized for the MA-010 chassis with cool running temperature. There is no AWD stock class where I race so I recommend the following motors:

For Stock Board/I recommend Atomic Stock R motor with 19/27 gearing.
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/MO006.jpg

For Fetted board I use Atomic BB Stock with 21/27 gearing.
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/AR030.jpg
*I make 10 minute mains without dumping. You may dump with the Z2/T2/Chili motor if your batteries are not hi-capacity.

Inexpensive ball bearing set. AWD-002
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/AWD002.jpg

New Affordable 1.5 Camber F/R for starter (a good compromise for performance and tire wear). AWD-209
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/AWD209_210.jpg

-2 X (AWD080) Ball diffs. You may re-grease it with your favorite diff lube such as Kyosho. Make sure diffs are smooth; no need to be too tight or too loose. Add a thrust bearing for smoother operation: (AWD-109)
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/AWD080.jpg
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/AWD109.jpg

-Spacer set. AWD084 Put an orange spacer on each corner under the knuckle
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/AWD084.jpg

-AWD083 Alloy pinion with setscrew. (Your pinion will not come off)
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/AWD083.jpg

-Heatsink (AWD-174)
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/AWD174.jpg

-Atomic F40 Slick Competition (AR004)/Atomic 8 Rear (AR-244-W08)
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/atomic/AR230_233.jpg

mk2kompressor
2010.02.12, 03:29 AM
Good idea:)
in the Uk where track temp is usually down on the USA I recommend


Rcp 8r/aw groove 30* front(or slick r 20-30 if grip rolling)
17/31 gearing with Stock motor
17/29 gearing with stock r motor
White rear and gold front springs
2 blue knuckle limiters(under the knuckle)on the front
1blue 1gold under the rear knuckles
2 extra gold spring spacers on the battery side rear knuckle
1.5 deg knuckles all round

Atomic-USA
2010.02.15, 09:32 PM
Pay attention not to over tighten any screws

Roll the car without a pinion to make sure it is free from binding.

Lighten the body by removing as much weight as possible especially the roof area.

Lower the car as much as you can without putting too many shims under the kunckles; that's why I cut the stock springs. True the front tires down if you can. Glue the front tires and its sidewalls. DO NOT glue the rear tire outer sidewall.

Make sure the diffs do not touch the center shaft gears by rolling the car. If it does the car will never track straight and may overheat. File the small gears gradually. Apply tiny bit of glue for Rear Spur gear.

Cut as much material as you can from the top of the chassis and rewire the board. Dremel the bumps under the car carefully. Move Circuit board forward for better motor cooling

Use as little toe-in in the rear as possible if the car can track straight. Currently I am using 0.5 degree in rear. Stock toe in front.

Push the car down and make sure it does not rub the ground easily but stay low on ride height.

Lube the knuckles with heavy grease. I use Kyosho 30000.

If the car is traction rolling on left turn try lowering the left rear knuckle or use lesser Left Rear camber. On one of my AWD I use R.L. 1 degree and R.R. 2 degree camber

Bodies: I use F50 for aggressive driving/360 for neutral driving/McLaren F1 for ease of driving.

If you need more rear end stability use SAS. I'll get into that later.

I lost my ride height gauges so I don't know what the measurements are. Eyeball it for now.

That's all I can think of for now. The above are necessary in order to build a 2WD beating AWD at NYRC. My car has been reliable and require very little constant maintenance or even tire changes.

ub0211042
2010.02.16, 12:18 AM
great post...keep more coming :D, i have so many Atomic parts laying around :)

seems that AWD spur gear always wear's off or it will slip so i end up using kyosho's Alum spur with kyosho's stock pinion which i glued to the motor, so far so good...

Felix2010
2010.02.16, 07:41 AM
Great thread. Good setup info from a very,VERY good driver.

There is one thing I am wondering about though: About the springs you use? You mention you like to cut the stock Kyosho OEM black springs. I think I know how to cut the springs - I hope hehe:) But could you tell us real-quick how do you cut the springs and make them so the ends are "flat", so they sit flat on the end that you cut? This is for even compression. Also, you recommend using stock black springs all-around for this setup you mention in this thread?

Thank you for the info:D

Atomic-USA
2010.02.16, 08:49 AM
I recommended Stock springs as a starter and to keep costs low (Stage 1). For later stages I'll recommend different springs. Rather than buying low down springs a budget minded racer may just cut the stock springs.

For the AWD I generally don't need even compression in the rear. If I do I use shims below the spring to make it up.

mk2kompressor
2010.02.16, 10:21 AM
sorry i didnt know this was about your own car:o
you want me to edit my post?

Atomic-USA
2010.02.16, 01:16 PM
No need it does not bother me.