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Davey G
2010.03.23, 05:34 PM
Now you can adjust front to back and side to dampening and preload independantly with the new PN racing Tri Damper System.

Here is the direct link:http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/shop2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4809

http://pnracing.us/productsphotos/MR2994C-1.jpg

Rune
2010.03.23, 07:04 PM
Looks nice.
Will have to test one to see how it does:D
I would like to see a picture of the side dampers. How long are the tube you can grease up?

Also. On some proto pictures I have seen, the H plate are removed and replaced with a swivel mount.
Will this be released in the future?

http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/shop2/catalog/images/MR2998C.jpg
BR
Rune

pedrocamp
2010.03.23, 08:27 PM
Do the side dampers use the same compression springs as the double spring main damper? 2 - MR2162 sets are required? I would guess you recommend a light T-plate when using this setup?

EMU
2010.03.23, 08:30 PM
Can these be used with any mount, or do you have to use the PN LCG/FM mounts?

pedrocamp
2010.03.23, 08:35 PM
It looks like they are pod specific. You could fab up a new outer damper mount or adapt the supplied one to work.

EMU
2010.03.23, 08:56 PM
Can anyone post pictures of how this attaches to the mount? Also, how much does this add in weight to the setup (not including DDS plate)? It might be good for a modified class, but I dont know how much it would help for stock class.

One thing that this should help a lot with, is taking or adjusting tweak out of the car (or into it if you want).

ocean rodeo
2010.03.23, 08:59 PM
You need the MR2295 mount. If PN is going to sell the long damper arm seperatly you should be able to use it with the V2 mount too.

yasuji
2010.03.23, 09:01 PM
Do the side dampers use the same compression springs as the double spring main damper? 2 - MR2162 sets are required? I would guess you recommend a light T-plate when using this setup?

yes and yes i use the pn g-10 t plates

ocean rodeo
2010.03.23, 09:01 PM
The side damper plate will attach to the long damper arm. There are two holes on either side of the center damper post.

yasuji
2010.03.23, 09:04 PM
Can these be used with any mount, or do you have to use the PN LCG/FM mounts?

the one in the actuall pic is for the 98/102v4 mount
the one in the 3d pic is for the 94/98v3 mount the v3 comes with the long damper post arm

Davey G
2010.03.23, 10:41 PM
Do the side dampers use the same compression springs as the double spring main damper? 2 - MR2162 sets are required? I would guess you recommend a light T-plate when using this setup?

Yes "2" of the MR2162 spring sets are what you would use to change your side to side tension (kinda like changing your tbar).

There are a few ways to use this system. You can use it for strictly side to side dampening purposes only. Meaning you can dampen your side shocks but NOT run any springs and use your tbar for side to side action and a top shock for front to back action. I use the new PN fiberglass plates (#4 usually) with orange side springs and Team Associated stealth lube in the side shocks. I set the preload adjusters so that they barely touch the springs at ride height in full race trim. If your car doesnt turn enough one direction, turn the opposite side preload adjuster to increase tension. (EX: My car doesnt turn enough to the left, crank preload in the right shock)

The biggest difference between the TDS and a DPS is the lack of stiction. DPS systems have a LOT of surface area which causes stiction. The pod will almost NEVER come back to center by itself with a DPS, the TDS allows it to always come back to center, making it straighten up quicker on exit and making it more nimble through chicanes.

Anxious to see what all of you think once you get it strapped on your cars. :D

Rune
2010.03.24, 05:50 AM
yes and yes i use the pn g-10 t plates
What about the swivel mount instead of T plate seen in the proto pics? Will this be released later on?



There are a few ways to use this system. You can use it for strictly side to side dampening purposes only. Meaning you can dampen your side shocks but NOT run any springs and use your tbar for side to side action and a top shock for front to back action.
How long are the tubes/ cylinders in the side dampers?

BR
Rune

machgo5go
2010.03.24, 08:05 AM
I thought I saw this on Maj's car in few months back by his work bench so I thought it is nothing new?

Davey G
2010.03.24, 08:23 AM
What about the swivel mount instead of T plate seen in the proto pics? Will this be released later on?

How long are the tubes/ cylinders in the side dampers?

BR
Rune

The Swivel was the prototype version for 98mm setups. Not sure on a release.

The side shocks are about 3/4" compressed, the diameter of the shaft is pretty beefy so once you put some grease on it, it dampens it quite nicely. I will post pics of what it looks like on my car in a bit. But in the meantime here is a pic of Phils car from the TEKIN race.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs145.snc3/17237_246052957706_231472532706_3093942_3051181_n. jpg

mleemor60
2010.03.24, 09:25 AM
What body configuration is necessary for adequate clearance in roll?

Rune
2010.03.24, 11:39 AM
The Swivel was the prototype version for 98mm setups. Not sure on a release.

The side shocks are about 3/4" compressed, the diameter of the shaft is pretty beefy so once you put some grease on it, it dampens it quite nicely. I will post pics of what it looks like on my car in a bit. But in the meantime here is a pic of Phils car from the TEKIN race.
]

Thanks.
If possible, i would like to see a close up picture of the side dampers.

The system looks really interesting.
I am a big fan of side dampers.

Davey G
2010.03.24, 12:29 PM
What body configuration is necessary for adequate clearance in roll?

I havent seen any clearance issues on any bodies so far. I mounted my side shocks with the screw pointing down with the nut on the bottom which saves space as well.

Thanks.
If possible, i would like to see a close up picture of the side dampers.

The system looks really interesting.
I am a big fan of side dampers.

Here ya go:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/dgmarch1.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/?action=view&current=dgmarch1.jpg)
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/dgmarch2.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/?action=view&current=dgmarch2.jpg)
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/dgmarch3.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/?action=view&current=dgmarch3.jpg)

Rune
2010.03.24, 01:32 PM
Thank you!
Really looking forward to try it out.

z3zinho
2010.03.24, 01:39 PM
Looking at it the only problem might be decrease of suspension travel from side to side. That was the main problem with the Atomic 'tri shock' setup for the RM DPS.

PS: EMU I know you will eventually read this, I sent you a PM , when you can please reply ;)

EMU
2010.03.24, 01:40 PM
Already sold out :eek:

PM replied to...

Davey G
2010.03.24, 02:09 PM
Looking at it the only problem might be decrease of suspension travel from side to side. That was the main problem with the Atomic 'tri shock' setup for the RM DPS.

PS: EMU I know you will eventually read this, I sent you a PM , when you can please reply ;)

NOPE, from side to side you get the same travel as a DPS, the limit is the circle cut out of the shock mount, which is the same hole that is used on damper disc setup.

dvsstrike
2010.03.24, 03:26 PM
holy crap :eek: sold out already! how long to re stock again? 03 upper arms are still out.

PNracing
2010.03.24, 03:40 PM
Next Monday back in stock.
MR03 Upper Arm will be tomorrow.

PNracing
2010.03.25, 02:34 AM
Would the damper arm be sold separately? It's kinda redundant to buy the same pod again just for the arm lol..

Yes, the long arm for V2 Motor mount will be sell separately, and will be in stock next week.

Felix2010
2010.03.25, 09:48 AM
Dave, that is one of the hottest cars I've seen, and I've seen a LOT. :D

If you don't mind me asking, Are you running and MR03 board (RA-22 unit) in that 02 chassis? How's it run if so? Thanks for the pics & info

- Lawrence McCabe III

Davey G
2010.03.25, 01:11 PM
I have been running an 02 board, but this week will be the 03 board.



Noone noticed the other prototype part.....Hmmmmm oh well.


(my locals please dont point it out, cuz I know u all know...lol :p)

mk2kompressor
2010.03.25, 01:22 PM
Noone noticed the other prototype part.....Hmmmmm oh well.


(my locals please dont point it out, cuz I know u all know...lol :p)


rear diff output?

hrdrvr
2010.03.25, 01:50 PM
^ My guess too. Chad and I were talking about how it looked similar to a QteQ diff, but I havent seen them in that color :D

Davey G
2010.03.25, 02:42 PM
Yip, and the adjuster nut is plastic.... :D

hrdrvr
2010.03.25, 02:50 PM
Is it the same adjuster nut that comes on hte $22 plastic diff, or is it totally new?

EMU
2010.03.25, 09:57 PM
Is it the same adjuster nut that comes on hte $22 plastic diff, or is it totally new?

What $22 plastic diff are you talking about?

ocean rodeo
2010.03.25, 10:05 PM
I think he is referring to the Kawada diff.

EMU
2010.03.25, 10:38 PM
The Kawada diff has no nut adjuster, it is an outer tune diff where the wheel nut adjusts the diff tension.

ocean rodeo
2010.03.25, 10:42 PM
The Kawada diff has no nut adjuster, it is an outer tune diff where the wheel nut adjusts the diff tension.

Come to think of it your right. I have one comming the from Japan. I can't wait to try it. My buddy has one and it's really nice. The only con is the smallest pinion is a 10.

hrdrvr
2010.03.26, 11:41 AM
What $22 plastic diff are you talking about?

It is a diff my dad got at the LHS (who only stocked PN and Kyosho), and I want to say it was $22 with the regular SS shaft and 48p gears. My dad thinks it was more than that (~$28), and came with the 64p gears, but I dunno. We both remember when he bent the shaft and changed it out for the LW one.

I couldnt find the product at the PN or rckenon website, but here are the pics of it as it sits on my dads car right now.

http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv77/MBMZR/Members%20rides/Andy/IMAG0114.jpg

http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv77/MBMZR/Members%20rides/Andy/IMAG0117.jpg

http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv77/MBMZR/Members%20rides/Andy/IMAG0115.jpg

Davey G
2010.03.26, 12:22 PM
I think I have that diff too but all the parts are metal. That diff and the OTHER one that I have is a black PN version from a few yrs ago. The diff in my above pics are the new PN orange color (Hard anodized) and a delrin adjuster nut.

Traveler
2010.03.26, 12:37 PM
Dave, is PN sticking with the 10 ball spur design or going to a 6 ball design like Kyosho and ATM?

Also, if you have any experience with the new 03 tower and lower bars, how about weighing in on that thread located here (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33299&page=4)?

Thanks!

Traveler
2010.03.26, 12:43 PM
It is a diff my dad got at the LHS (who only stocked PN and Kyosho), and I want to say it was $22 with the regular SS shaft and 48p gears.

That's the nut that came on all my PN Diffs. purchased between 10/08 and 12/08. Part number was MR2045. Black plastic? nut and diff halves before they switched to alloy halves in v2 diff.

Davey G
2010.03.26, 01:15 PM
Dave, is PN sticking with the 10 ball spur design or going to a 6 ball design like Kyosho and ATM?

Also, if you have any experience with the new 03 tower and lower bars, how about weighing in on that thread located here (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33299&page=4)?

Thanks!

Hi Traveler, I just recieved my 03 last week but am not going to run it until ???? arrives in the mail from PN. Should be early next week or maybe today.

As far as the diff, there are no plans to change the current stock of white limited slip or the black standard ones.

Traveler
2010.03.26, 01:30 PM
Thanks for the info. Look forward to your thoughts on the 03 and the ?????? :)

hrdrvr
2010.03.26, 02:16 PM
I think I have that diff too but all the parts are metal. That diff and the OTHER one that I have is a black PN version from a few yrs ago. The diff in my above pics are the new PN orange color (Hard anodized) and a delrin adjuster nut.

Next time it needs a re-tune Ill take care of it for Daddy Rabbit, so I can get a good look at it and make sure its plastic. Ive held it in my hand before though, and am 99% sure it is.

Like I said before, it didn't come with that shaft, but with the standard SS one that isn't thinned down.

That's the nut that came on all my PN Diffs. purchased between 10/08 and 12/08. Part number was MR2045. Black plastic? nut and diff halves before they switched to alloy halves in v2 diff.

Marwan, this diff was not the MR2045. Thats why I'm pretty sure this one came with the 48p gears. The LHS we shopped at had the alloy MR2045 (this was back before the LW and UL shafts) and this one in stock.

dvsstrike
2010.03.26, 02:49 PM
so with this system do you have to run it with dampner disks also? i figure you just need the side dampner and the center shock. with the dds also is it over dampend?

Traveler
2010.03.26, 02:51 PM
The MR2045s I have look exactly like the one on DRs car minus the LW shaft plus the old stainless shaft and 48p spur. Got 3 of them. Guessing PN kept same part number when switching to v2 diff. with anodized diff halves and LW shaft.

But we're getting way off topic. So how about that new TDS? Can't wait to get mine. But have to wait for v3 arms to be released.

Davey G
2010.03.27, 08:49 AM
so with this system do you have to run it with dampner disks also? i figure you just need the side dampner and the center shock. with the dds also is it over dampend?

As you can see from my car, (Page 1) I dont run any DDS plates. Yes you can use the dds plates with this setup. You can dampen the dds plates and simply use the side shocks for tweak and side force with NO grease in the shocks. ALso by using the dds plates you gain front to back dampening so you wont have to use a top shock. (if your tbar is strong enough to support the chassis that is) Some people like the stiction feel of the DDS plates, some people dont.

machgo5go
2010.03.27, 12:53 PM
I don't see MSRP link on P N site so far.

Traveler
2010.03.27, 01:21 PM
MSRP is $28.88 :)

dvsstrike
2010.03.29, 09:13 AM
so who tried it and liked it? well.... i have one and have mixed opinions on it.It made my car car do some funky stuff that it never did.it made the rear end kick out on entry of a turn but not all the time. i'm using the stock springs all around and a fiberglass #4 plate in 94mm trim on an 03. i removed the system and my car is fine now i am going to retry the system out at later time

yasuji
2010.03.29, 01:08 PM
i have tried the 98mm version and i love it!;) the stk springs r pretty stiff i think....
i use the drk blue shock springs

Davey G
2010.03.29, 01:37 PM
so who tried it and liked it? well.... i have one and have mixed opinions on it.It made my car car do some funky stuff that it never did.it made the rear end kick out on entry of a turn but not all the time. i'm using the stock springs all around and a fiberglass #4 plate in 94mm trim on an 03. i removed the system and my car is fine now i am going to retry the system out at later time

LIke Grant said, have u tried using softer springs? The Blue is popular, I am still using Orange.

What are you using to dampen the side shocks?

yasuji
2010.03.29, 01:41 PM
What are you using to dampen the side shocks?

i use the dds ...no grease in the side shocks

dvsstrike
2010.03.29, 02:04 PM
using slick honey on side dampner equal to stealth lube and 50wt on dds with kyosho f1 shock and a kyosho oil filled. i trieed it with dds and without and w/without shock with just dds handle all the same. took the sides off and car is fine with just dds

Tjay
2010.03.29, 02:36 PM
I read "with dds" on this tri shock suspension... This is very interesting.

dahlis
2010.03.29, 02:48 PM
My setup with Honda NSX 98mm, mr03 chassie
DDS installed, soft springs, 2000wt oil
TDS, blue springs, some preload, no grease
Top shock, main spring red, rebound spring white
H- bar no:4 or no:3
Works excellent.

dvsstrike
2010.03.29, 04:38 PM
don't get me wrong its a good concept. its just different. made my car do goofy things

hcw0zone
2010.03.30, 01:57 AM
:D:D:D:D Enjoy !!! :D:D:D:D

dvsstrike
2010.03.30, 08:18 AM
HCW0Zone
nice cars man houw does the tds work on your lm?

dvsstrike
2010.04.01, 08:51 PM
ok been working on this crazy thing. how do i get rid of this damm rear end hop and traction rolling issue.
set up
dds installed red springs top and bottom ruby lube
tds no lube orange springs
#3 ssg plate

Davey G
2010.04.01, 09:11 PM
Are you running with very little preload on the side springs? Can u take a pic of your car? Is your L-bracket as low as possible without making the shock angle too crazy?

Tjay
2010.04.02, 02:57 AM
Dvs: I hear ya! I did a blog about after lunch today, check out fpr's site. After work, I went straight to the track and tried few things and after about half an hour, my car was hooked up! Here's what I did:

center shock:
-orange springs a little bit of preload
-5k kyosho grease
-mr02 red springs in the front

side shocks:
-dark blue springs
-preloaded
-5k kyosho grease
-1.6mm spacer under the shocks on both ends
-outer shock mount is mounted closer to the rear wheel

Disc Damper:
-installed with no lube
-red pn springs (old school soft)

without the DDS, the car had crap load of steering and the rear hops when coming into the turn. Right when I installed the dds (only one disc and none on the bottom) with 20 wt oil, the car started to push. I got rid of the oil and preloaded the rear springs. I was able to gain my steering back and got rid of that rear hop. Give that a try.

Good luck!

dvsstrike
2010.04.02, 10:17 AM
one disk on top will try that. i did put a yellow kyosho shock and that eliminated hop, but not traction roll. there is no preload what so ever.and the arm is as low as possible

hcw0zone
2010.04.02, 12:16 PM
rear tyres clearance ???

Tjay
2010.04.02, 12:17 PM
I will also give that kyosho shock a try.

For traction roll, also consider running thicker grease like kyosho 5k for your TDS.

yasuji
2010.04.02, 12:21 PM
ok.... nice blog tj...i feel u on the grease issue.....lol....therefore i do not use any i run my tds dry;) and i use the dds as well.....gibes me the best of both worlds!:D

Tjay
2010.04.02, 06:01 PM
Thanks Grant! I will try to not use the grease this weekend. Its better if I can stay away from that stuff. It makes things a lot cleaner too & less mess when I dust my car off.

I'm trying this TDS on my stock car which I think is over kill. lol... I want to switch my stock car back to DDS but after getting it to work, I think I'll invest another one for the mod car instead. We shall see. :D

yasuji
2010.04.03, 05:48 AM
Thanks Grant! I will try to not use the grease this weekend. Its better if I can stay away from that stuff. It makes things a lot cleaner too & less mess when I dust my car off.

I'm trying this TDS on my stock car which I think is over kill. lol... I want to switch my stock car back to DDS but after getting it to work, I think I'll invest another one for the mod car instead. We shall see. :D

the best thing about is system is the ability to fine tune it!...an 1/8 of a turn on one side can give/take grip from the rear...i have spent alot of time with this system and i still learn something from it every time i put it down on the track!

Felix2010
2010.04.03, 10:04 AM
Has anyone found out what is the best way to secure the aluminum spring adjustment collars on the side shocks and especially on the PN top/rear dual shock? It seems that if I use locktite(blue) or CA the spring adjust collars become almost impossible to adjust anymore without having to soak the collars in Acetone/Motor cleaner just to get the collars to move again:confused:

Thanks guys for all the info:)

PNracing
2010.04.03, 12:00 PM
Has anyone found out what is the best way to secure the aluminum spring adjustment collars on the side shocks and especially on the PN top/rear dual shock? It seems that if I use locktite(blue) or CA the spring adjust collars become almost impossible to adjust anymore without having to soak the collars in Acetone/Motor cleaner just to get the collars to move again:confused:

Thanks guys for all the info:)

You can put some Kyosho 30000 gear diff grease

yasuji
2010.04.03, 12:24 PM
Has anyone found out what is the best way to secure the aluminum spring adjustment collars on the side shocks and especially on the PN top/rear dual shock? It seems that if I use locktite(blue) or CA the spring adjust collars become almost impossible to adjust anymore without having to soak the collars in Acetone/Motor cleaner just to get the collars to move again:confused:

Thanks guys for all the info:)

i use a small drop of CLEAR INSTAFLEX on the threads and rub across let it dry
then thread the adjuster collar on to it. apply a drop of CONTACT/BRAKE CLEANER using a Qtip and run the collar up and down the threads... :cool:

Davey G
2010.04.08, 09:26 AM
Who else has tried it? Any questions, ask away!

Traveler
2010.04.08, 09:35 AM
I test fit the 94mm TDS and took it for a spin around the home track. Haven't raced it yet. Need to pick up some grease for dampening first. Also, my motor wires which are soldered to the board were too short to reach over and around the TDS, so I ran them through the TDS just to try it. Will have to replace with longer wires to avoid any binding.

Look forward to getting it set up right and racing it maybe next week!

dvsstrike
2010.04.08, 09:45 AM
still messing around with it still doing goofy stuff. tried all suggestions so far the best is with kyosho shock and orange springs an 4 g10 plate

CristianTabush
2010.04.08, 11:58 AM
Tim, try running it without the disk damper, use Kyosho 15000wt fluid on the side shocks (go 30K if your track has high grip). Use the Orange or blue springs (I use the 3racing AWD Springs the soft (black) = orangePN / medium (silver)= bluePN, and the hard (gold) is slightly softer than the next PN Spring in the set. It is also nice that they are super cheap and that there is 2 pairs of each stiffness in the spring set. The 3 racing springs are also more consistent spring to spring as far as stiffness and closer in length. I had to open 5 packs of PN Side springs to get 2 matching length orange springs. (Having unequal spring lengths could be your problem).

Lastly, I am using the Reflex Soft FRP Plate. If you are using the Disk Damper, use a VERY soft H-plate since you have increased lateral stifness due to the springs. In this case, the side shocks do not need dampening, as this is provided by the DD. Use the side shocks to set your tweak, not your dampening.

With that, I prefer the no Disk Damper set-up. It is lighter and should provide you with more than enough dampening to control the rear end of a Mini-Z. The side shocks when using proper grease, should provide more consistent dampening than your typicaly disk damper. For the central shock, I would not use anything else than the Kyosho oil shock when using no disk damper. It is fluid filled, the dampening can be adjusted much better and precisely than with any other shock. I use 500 wt atomic oil.

The geometry is a little goofy due to the disk damper compromise on the lateral shocks in 94mm config. This should make the suspension act a little "different" throughout the corner as the shocks will work progressively under compression. If you remove the dd, you can drill 2 holes on the damper plate mount 2mm further forward than the original ones to obtain a 90 deg angle on the side shocks when using the most rearward hole on the outside mounts (in 94mm config). This should give you a more linear and consistent suspension response (should act more consistent throughout the corner). Or, you could run 96mm ;) In this configuration, you can get the side shocks straight instead of angled forward on the outside mounts. :)

I like the rear suspension. It is a bit heavier than your typical DD set-up, but being able to set tweak in the rear end is an AWESOME tool. Wouldn't say that it's faster, but much like our side damper system, in bumpy track situations (and most rcp tracks are), it should reign supreme!

QuantumRC
2010.04.08, 11:34 PM
Christain, how would your setup differ from TJ's?

He ran a single damper disk on top as posted on his blog. Does that mean that it boils to driver's preference and layout dependent?

yasuji
2010.04.09, 12:50 AM
imo...using the disk is drivers preference ...philip does not use the disks , for me i have tried both ways and i prefer the discs...mainly due to the lack of need for maintenance and more consistency , however i have not tried the 94mm set up as i only run the 98mm set up.. i do agree with CT as i like the feel of the side shocks @ 90deg to the ctr shock! the original prototype that i tested with put the side shocks at a slight angle and gave the car a more progressive feel under compression where the shocks @ 90deg gives it a more linear feel under compression
i have tried every possible configuration available to ME and for ME and MY driving style ....i use the disc:D

CristianTabush
2010.04.09, 02:48 AM
Quantum, my set-up is different in that I get my dampening through fluid, instead of through the friction of the disk damper. Not that it's bad either way, I agree with Grant, as it is a matter of preference. Essentially you have to look at the car as a Disk Damper car with Tweak springs when you do run the Disks (which is what Grant is running, a disk damper car with pre-load springs to set tweak and lateral stiffness). If you try to dampen with both the disks and the fluid, your car will probably be over dampened, hence why Grant has better luck with no fluid, and if you notice TJ's original set-up, he had to use the top disk as the 5K weight grease was probably not enough. I think it would be fair to predict that Grant's car, with fluid thick enough to provide dampening on the side shocks, would not run as well as without it. The car would probably act really poorly due to the fact that the pod would be very slow.

When you run no disks, you are dependent on fluid (grease) to dampen your car, this is easier for me to manage as you have less variables to mess with and there is far less clutter. Notice how all larger scale cars use one or the other form of dampening, not both.

QuantumRC
2010.04.09, 12:12 PM
I thought so after fixing up the damper system today. Havent got a chance to run it yet, but this sunday will tell it all as we are having our race.

As i was fixing up the damper, i notice that there are many possibilities it would improves the car setup.. will post more findings after the race.

dvsstrike
2010.04.09, 03:16 PM
alright her it goes.i finally got my 03 to handle the best it ever has.keep in mind my track has tons of traction.

rear.
green side springs losi 2000cs fluid no dampner disks
kyosho shock with 5owt oil green spring
pn #6 g10 plate

front
reflex kingpins with reflex cups
pn low down yellow spring
pn spring holder using it as a upper arm stop

tires
pn 15 slick front
pn 8 slick rear

body 350z

this sis the best set up i have found.Christian did recomend to check spring lentgh and sure as crap they are not equal at all. the only springs that were eqaul thati had were the greens. i only have to sets. so thats it. i'm not going to buy 3 more sets to see if i can get a maching set.

Tjay
2010.04.09, 08:09 PM
I have been busy learning how to match cell all week. lol... Anyway, Grant is right. It is definitely drivers preference. I have seen and heard drivers running this set up with center shock, w/out center shock, w/ dds, w/out dds, etc... There's just so much you can do with this system.

Last Friday's race at FPR, my PN70 car (TDS) felt really good but my times were exactly the same with the DDS cars. I was blaming it on the speed. Not so much on the straight away but torque coming out of the corner. I really think that this TDS is so heavy that it made my car that much slower. Yesterday, I took my TDS off and ran my DDS and the time were pretty close but I dont think it was from the DDS. I think it's because I have a better battery this time around. Anyhow, I can't seem to get use the the feel of DDS. I feel that i'm always off the throttle while the TDS I'm always on throttle... After tonights race, I will put my TDS back and see how it is again. So far, I have my mod car to TDS with kyosho oil filled shock, no DDS and #5 fiber glass t-bar. It is not the fastest set up but it is the most consistent. I think that fiber glass is making my rear end too planted. I'll try 5k grease on the side then 15k grease and see how that works. Meanwhile, my fastest setup is still with the dds on top and carbon fiber #3 t-bar. I really like how the kyosho shock feels though. Very consistent!

This is a good thread. Thanks for all the info guys!!

Davey G
2010.04.10, 07:19 PM
I keep seeing you guys posting your setups but what version mini z are you running? I am still sticking with my mr02, I have been testing the 03 but still cant get it as comfortable as my 02. Just curious... :)

yasuji
2010.04.10, 09:30 PM
sorry about that dave!...when i first started testing this it was with an 02....it had the PIVOT system NO T PLATE....i tried my 02 with a tplate and the tds and it was not as good as the pivot system. I LOVED THE PIVOT SYSTEM!
however after the TEKIN 1/28THSCALE NATS...i parked my 02 and started the development process on an 03! so now i am using the tds and the pn g10 #5
i have tried it with the softer plates and stiffer springs all around to achieve the same feel but i opt for the #5 set up so i do not have a breakage problem!
IMO my 03 is about 90% of what my 02 was.....:D

racer_18x
2010.04.11, 10:09 AM
Guys, i've been trying to crack my head trying to fix up the tds without having my motor wires binding my suspension on my MR03. the biggest fear i have when i want to mount the wires to the board is to accidentally short the fets. any advice on mounting the motor wires to the car without binding the suspension and accidentally shorting the board? i know soldering it would be the best way but i'm trying to avoid that.

Rune
2010.04.11, 02:31 PM
Finally got these for testing.
The adjustablity it gives are very interesting.
Everything fits well together. (except for the plastic nuts that came with it)
It performs very good. I really like it:D

I have written a review of it here. I will add more to it after some more track testing. (http://bankenz.blogspot.com/2010/04/review-pn-tri-damper-system.html)
TDS Review.
(http://bankenz.blogspot.com/2010/04/review-pn-tri-damper-system.html)


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_2uRHE7AV3zs/S8JAIbTjeVI/AAAAAAAABuw/Bmcvup4QcdU/mindre.jpg

Kyosho 15000WT grease
Orange PN springs.
Mounted the dampers with as small angle as I could get. I think it will be very progressive if you mount them on top of the upper plate.

dvsstrike
2010.04.12, 07:50 AM
i don't know if its just me but the rear end seems to run better on an o2 in 94mm its alot more stable

dbsteve
2010.04.12, 08:40 AM
I keep seeing you guys posting your setups but what version mini z are you running? I am still sticking with my mr02, I have been testing the 03 but still cant get it as comfortable as my 02. Just curious... :)

Hi Dave, I sold my MR02 and running only 03. After yesterday's race I could say that with the TDS my car was coming to the same level as the 02...

In fast corners/chicanes the car was very stable and consistent.

I ran orange springs on TDS with Grey Carbon T-Plate #3 ( Screws inside ).

Steve ;)

Felix2010
2010.04.17, 02:54 PM
sorry about that dave!...when i first started testing this it was with an 02....it had the PIVOT system NO T PLATE....i tried my 02 with a tplate and the tds and it was not as good as the pivot system. I LOVED THE PIVOT SYSTEM!
however after the TEKIN 1/28THSCALE NATS...i parked my 02 and started the development process on an 03! so now i am using the tds and the pn g10 #5
i have tried it with the softer plates and stiffer springs all around to achieve the same feel but i opt for the #5 set up so i do not have a breakage problem!
IMO my 03 is about 90% of what my 02 was.....:D

Hi Grant,

Your 03 looks crazy-cool with the proto front-end, the PN Tri_Damper System in the rear - Just a real cool car. AND you ran the Long-Tail McLaren GTR... That is cool by itself, no one runs that body from what I've seen....:cool:

Aside from the way your 03 was built using the PN #5 G10 T-plate, could you tell me anything about the "Pivot System" ?? I am curious about how that worked and especially why you feel it is/was superior to running the standard T-plate for the bottom "spring".

Thanks in advance:) I just don't see how a Pivot System would work on an MR02/MR03. If you can't really talk about the Pivot System in specifics, could you give just the general idea of how the "Pivot System" worked ??

kromie101
2010.04.19, 09:13 PM
so with this setup you should run a softer h plate on the 03?

yasuji
2010.04.19, 10:14 PM
Hi Grant,

Your 03 looks crazy-cool with the proto front-end, the PN Tri_Damper System in the rear - Just a real cool car. AND you ran the Long-Tail McLaren GTR... That is cool by itself, no one runs that body from what I've seen....:cool:

Aside from the way your 03 was built using the PN #5 G10 T-plate, could you tell me anything about the "Pivot System" ?? I am curious about how that worked and especially why you feel it is/was superior to running the standard T-plate for the bottom "spring".

Thanks in advance:) I just don't see how a Pivot System would work on an MR02/MR03. If you can't really talk about the Pivot System in specifics, could you give just the general idea of how the "Pivot System" worked ??

THANK YOU:D as for the pivot system all i can say is it was nice to not have to worry about breaking a T plate i cant go in to depth about it but it is AWESOME! hopefully it will be made for the 03 soon!

yasuji
2010.04.19, 10:17 PM
so with this setup you should run a softer h plate on the 03?

i have been liking the pn g10 #4 or #5 plates where most 03s @ netzone run ssg #5

color01
2010.04.27, 03:14 AM
I had to join the bandwagon. :o Couple comments follow.

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1632/img0249y.jpg

Cons first: Routing the wires is an absolute pain. I spent 45 minutes assembling and tuning the springs, and then another hour just bending the wires till they were perfect. :rolleyes:

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5475/img0250kn.jpg

I noticed that TJ's setup had extra nuts underneath the side shocks to raise them up for motor clearance. From a leverage standpoint that's all fine and good, but I had clearance issues underneath my SC430 so the thick spacers had to go. What I did was put 2x PN orange alu shims underneath the outboard side shocks (look carefully at the pic) to raise the ends up a little bit. IMO, Rune is right, you want the shocks as flat as possible to get a more linear spring feel, rather than a progressive one. Progressive feel can be accomplished with a T-plate -- I'd use the shocks linearly, as least for now.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9550/img0253td.jpg

There are definitely more springs available for this setup than just PN's. I put some 3racing AWD springs on there, the softest ones (for now). I'm thinking that any AWD springs of sufficient length and quality will work on the side shocks. And they're shorter than the stock springs too so you can shave a little weight.


I'm using 7000 CST diff oil in all three shocks at the moment, this is just the base setup as I just put this together and have no idea how it makes my car drive (also put on -1 camber arms today, again no place/time to test). But the rear end feels pretty good right now. Stiff (I'm running PN carbon #6 T-plate! heh) but good. It returns perfectly to center every time I twist the pod, this definitely is an advantage over the old DDS setup. I'll see what tweaks need to be made to this setup the next time I go to the track -- I'll probably need 10k grease. :)

dvsstrike
2010.04.27, 06:55 PM
are those 3 rear offsetts?what body you running B.

color01
2010.04.27, 07:26 PM
Yeah, they're +3W's. I've got +2N/+3W under an SC430 at the moment, it's... interesting. It's way too stable, this would be appropriate for racing against 1/12 cars, outdoors, with LiPo. :D I lent my +1N/+1W F430 setup to someone, and am too cheap to buy another set. :rolleyes:

dvsstrike
2010.04.27, 09:31 PM
that fits :eek: i may have to try it. i also moved the side shocks under the plate instead of the top and moved the holes forward so the shocks are straight instead of an angle. i don't use the dampner disk so i cut some of the circle out for the wires

kromie101
2010.04.29, 11:07 PM
well i just put mine together and the 4 nylon nuts are to big for the long screws and will not snug up at all.they just slide on. and if you get counter sunk screws should'nt the carbon fiber be drilled out so they go in flush? i spent 30 bucks,and still have to by more nuts to make it work:(. looking forward to tring it but just a little upset about the finished product.

color01
2010.04.29, 11:48 PM
The countersunk screws are there to open up more space for the ball joints to move around -- not to go into the carbon (which is too thin to be countersunk-drilled like that anyways).

The nylon nuts should definitely be addressed, a set of four black steel nuts would be so much better. I'm sure Philip knows about this already and will have an updated batch soon enough.

kromie101
2010.04.30, 09:30 AM
thats cool,it was late last night puting it together and i was frustrated:). i still think it could be counter sunk. the y piece that pn sells with there other disc dampning setups has counter sunk holes. when i bought pn's center shock,it came with counter sunk screws and worked with the y piece. the y piece seems to be just as thin. but i will flip my screws around and try it that way.thanks for the info:).

kromie101
2010.04.30, 02:02 PM
ok,have another question. i'm running the 98mm pan body and the center shock hits right behind the transponder hole. the y piece is flat on the chassie.i've heard of removing the y piece and screwing right through the top chassie plate?or drimel out the body? thanks eric

color01
2010.04.30, 03:39 PM
The thin pieces really *can't* be countersunk. PN's disc damper uses two different CF thicknesses, only the thick one is countersunk. :)

Removing the Y-piece and drilling the correct holes straight through the top chassis cover is one way to do it, I think that's how Cristian and Reflex Racing recommend to do it. If that's still not enough space, then you've got no choice but to dremel out the inside of the body. Not that that's a problem with pan cars, there's plenty of plastic on all of them to spare.

Davey G
2010.05.20, 09:39 PM
Hey Brian I was just looking at your car and noticed that you have your side shocks mounted on top of the top plate. You can mount them on the bottom and lower the L bracket too for a lower CG. YES it makes wiring a little tougher but this is how I have my car setup.

color01
2010.05.22, 05:06 AM
I'll try it when I have some time -- a quick glance says that this is a REALLY tight fit for the shocks, and the tires might hit the shocks. :eek:

Old Crow
2010.05.22, 12:40 PM
sorry about that dave!...when i first started testing this it was with an 02....it had the PIVOT system NO T PLATE....i tried my 02 with a tplate and the tds and it was not as good as the pivot system. I LOVED THE PIVOT SYSTEM!
however after the TEKIN 1/28THSCALE NATS...i parked my 02 and started the development process on an 03! so now i am using the tds and the pn g10 #5
i have tried it with the softer plates and stiffer springs all around to achieve the same feel but i opt for the #5 set up so i do not have a breakage problem!
IMO my 03 is about 90% of what my 02 was.....:D

Ok, I'm just seeing the pivot system now on Kenon. Does the pivot system have front and back motion, or just side to side? You would'nt need front and back motion, right?

EMU
2010.05.22, 12:44 PM
It looks like a hinge pin holds the mount to the side to side pivot, so there is fore/aft movement.

Old Crow
2010.05.22, 05:29 PM
Would'nt it be better if there was no fore/aft movement, and just side to side? Or would that be too ridged given that the whole rear moves as one piece?

Davey G
2010.05.24, 03:05 PM
Here is how I did my wiring with the shocks in the low position....

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/tdswiring.jpg

color01
2010.05.24, 06:43 PM
Hot dang, Davey... looks close, but looks great! No top shock with your setup?

Davey G
2010.05.24, 07:14 PM
The negative wire is actually soldered onto the side of the brush tab, instead of on the little leg, you can sorta see this in the pic.

NO top shock, I am using the kyosho soft carbon hplate which is stiff enough to hold the car up without too much sag. Red spring on the bottom of the DPS and no spring on top, the top disc is just to keep dirt out not necesarily doing anything but going along for the ride. :) Ruby Lube for dampening.

Felix2010
2010.05.24, 09:24 PM
Awesome setup Davey. Love out-of-the-box thinking.:) No top shock, who'da thunk it?:)

color01
2010.06.04, 06:54 PM
Hey Dave, finally got a chance to try fitting my shocks like you did. It works! I just have to move some capacitors around as they contacted the aluminum damper arm. I also mounted the shocks as far back as they go to keep the shocks a bit straighter. Yours seem angled towards the front; is there any tangible difference between the shock mounting locations?

Also curious regarding what T-plate and spring combos people are using. I've got Reflex soft T-plate coupled to 3racing AWD springs on the side and the white spring on the PN dual-spring top shock; it feels "reasonable" in my hands and works in my room, but I have not been to an RCP track with it yet. It seems like with Kyosho soft and no top shock, you've got nil for bump stiffness; does this work? :eek:

Davey G
2010.06.10, 02:00 PM
I am still using the kyosho soft carbon hplate (mr02 car) with blue side springs, nothing in the side shocks but am running a dps with Ruby Lube. Red spring on the bottom, no spring on top.

Davey G
2010.06.30, 11:59 AM
I finally got to run my mr03 with this setup in stock. I have heard people say that they are choosing to NOT run the TDS in stock because of the weight. My car is 177grams with a transponder in it. Not sure what the issue is if they are running legal weight for club racing. I use RED springs on my side shocks and the rest is the same as my 02 as far as dampening and dps setup.

What are you guys using? Are you happy with the TDS? If not how come, maybe I can help. Let me know. :cool:

Davey G
2010.07.20, 05:46 PM
Any feedback from customers?

Traveler
2010.07.20, 05:58 PM
Dave, I bought both versions (94 and 98mm) when they first came out but haven't taken the time to set them up properly. Maybe I'll bring them with me to the PNWC race and you can share some tips with me. I think when the part that replaces the t-plate becomes available for the 03 this system may be more desireable.

chad508
2010.07.20, 06:04 PM
Thats the same thing ive been wating for before i try it out. im sure its a better way to dial a car in, but im just waiting for the whole kit. any news when the new gimbald mount will be out.

color01
2010.07.20, 06:40 PM
I got the thing running extremely well -- with good batteries and 70t motor I can easily keep up with Mod cars in the infield, there's a LOT of corner speed.

The downside of course is that the system is heavy, no matter how you look at it. I don't want to take it off, but for Stock, 70t racing the DDS might be a little faster, if less refined. I had insane amounts of corner speed and grip, but for pure acceleration at corner exit my car was definitely a tick slower than the disk damper-equipped cars.

My entire setup with the TDS was about 178g, and this was with a wingless F430 and the entire (slightly heavier) PN aluminum front end. However this was no transponder, so with it I might have been at 183g or so, a bit heavier than I would prefer to run in a Stock 70t race.

I'm very happy with the tuning possibilities of this rear end, so for now I'm going to take it off and try to tune the disk damper system to match the feel I've achieved with the TDS. If it's possible, then I'd run DDS in stock and sell the TDS to someone else's Mod car (I don't enjoy racing Mod), but if not then I'll keep alternating till I find a winner. :)

Cheers to Philip and whomever designed the TDS for making a downright addicting suspension system for the MR-03. ;)

SAGISI
2010.07.20, 07:49 PM
To run the TDS on PN Pan body do you have to cut portions of the roof off? Anyone got pics?

Mike Keely
2010.07.20, 08:05 PM
I finally got to run my mr03 with this setup in stock. I have heard people say that they are choosing to NOT run the TDS in stock because of the weight. My car is 177grams with a transponder in it. Not sure what the issue is if they are running legal weight for club racing. I use RED springs on my side shocks and the rest is the same as my 02 as far as dampening and dps setup.

What are you guys using? Are you happy with the TDS? If not how come, maybe I can help. Let me know. :cool:

When I ran it I had issues with the car pushing. It had no problems hooking up a mod motor in the rear but I could not get enough steering. I was trying it in a 98mm car and that may be the reason.

Old Crow
2010.07.20, 08:17 PM
Thats the same thing ive been wating for before i try it out. im sure its a better way to dial a car in, but im just waiting for the whole kit. any news when the new gimbald mount will be out.

Heard nothing on when the mount will be out, but did get to see the MR-02 Gimbaled mount and was disappointed. It's a great idea, but there is a lot of slop, needs to have better tolerances. That was also the feedback from a couple of people I talked to who tried it, hope it's something that can be fixed in the MR-03 version.

lfisminiz
2010.07.20, 08:25 PM
To run the TDS on PN Pan body do you have to cut portions of the roof off? Anyone got pics?

For your pan car, run the side shocks and the discs on the damper, no top shock. Fits with no problem and runs well.

Davey G
2010.07.21, 09:55 AM
When I ran it I had issues with the car pushing. It had no problems hooking up a mod motor in the rear but I could not get enough steering. I was trying it in a 98mm car and that may be the reason.


If it pushes then your side springs are too stiff. The orange will give you the most steering. Then move up from there as far as stiffness. On my stock car (mr03) I use red side springs. On my mod car (mr02) I am using Greens.

To run the TDS on PN Pan body do you have to cut portions of the roof off? Anyone got pics?

Make sure your shocks are mounted as low as possible as well as making sure your L bracket is in the low position. For clearance issues I point my screws down and put the nuts on the bottom. Can you show us a pic??

JuniorWKR
2010.07.21, 11:01 AM
i run side shock rear on all my cars now... love the tuning oppurtunities it gives me to best tune my car to handle each new track and layout i race on...

i too run red springs on 94mm stock and green springs on my 2 98mm setups... i only run lower dps spring and disc... nothing on top... all cars are also run using pn reverse kingping front end...

but dave is right by sayiong you want the shocks to lay as level as possible and both mounting point to be as straigt as possible...

to start out your tuning remember to just sit the springs with the adjuster nut when batteries are in car and car is sitting on level surface... no droop , no preload and go from there... small quater turns is all you need...

Mike Keely
2010.07.21, 09:05 PM
I was running the springs that came with the tri-shock kit. What springs are you using?

JuniorWKR
2010.07.22, 08:37 AM
we are using the springs that are made for the dual rate top shock... there is only one color in each bag so you have to buy two bags of springs... but it will give you the most tunning options...

Davey G
2010.07.22, 09:28 AM
I was running the springs that came with the tri-shock kit. What springs are you using?

yeah those are pretty stiff. You need to get the springs for the double spring top shock, just like what Junior said. (2packs)

chad508
2010.07.23, 07:38 PM
okay got a question. i just set up the tri damper on my 98-102 pod. it feels good but one thing we noticed was when you pivot the pod side to side the pod does not travel parallel to the chassis. this in turn loads the center shock in one direction and unloads it in the other. i tried tweaking the pod left and right but did not change the action. i also tried other t plates but had no luck. any one have any ideas.

Mike Keely
2010.07.23, 08:30 PM
yeah those are pretty stiff. You need to get the springs for the double spring top shock, just like what Junior said. (2packs)

If you can get some in stock for me I will get them when I come up next Friday. I want to get a 45 turn motor also. Please order them for me and I will get them next week at the PN race. Thanks

Davey G
2010.07.24, 11:38 AM
okay got a question. i just set up the tri damper on my 98-102 pod. it feels good but one thing we noticed was when you pivot the pod side to side the pod does not travel parallel to the chassis. this in turn loads the center shock in one direction and unloads it in the other. i tried tweaking the pod left and right but did not change the action. i also tried other t plates but had no luck. any one have any ideas.

I am pretty certain this action happends whether the side shocks are on or not. Did you try doing this "side to side action" without the shocks? I am pretty sure the top shock loads and unloads without them in a regular DPS setup.

If you can get some in stock for me I will get them when I come up next Friday. I want to get a 45 turn motor also. Please order them for me and I will get them next week at the PN race. Thanks

Consider it done!

color01
2010.07.25, 02:03 AM
If you have your top shock exactly parallel to the chassis centerline, the loading/unloading shouldn't happen... I don't know what top shock you have but the PN dual-spring shock sometimes requires a little work to make the shock sit exactly straight.

Also consider the possibility that the side shocks might not be mounted on the correct holes? That would easily cause the shocks to load improperly when rolling to one side. Hope that helps?

chad508
2010.07.25, 08:59 AM
i think i found my problem i believe one of my motor wire was a little short causing it to pull one way. i swapped wire and will check it out monday. thanks guys.

dr_hfuhuhurr
2011.03.18, 03:23 PM
I picked one of these up from the shop yesterday. The screws and the nuts for the shock mounts do not work together at all. The nuts just slide right up and down the screws.

Anyone else have this problem?

Traveler
2011.03.18, 03:26 PM
Yes, this has been (widely) reported. Was hoping it had been fixed. If you have stock Kyosho plastic wheel nuts, they work perfectly with PN supplied screws. ;)

mosaics12
2011.03.18, 03:31 PM
or get d aluminum wheel nut :)

dr_hfuhuhurr
2011.03.18, 03:44 PM
Thanks...just a bit annoying as it's difficult to make it to the shop to get more parts. I'll try the wheel nuts.

Blake

monkeyZ
2011.03.30, 11:21 PM
anyone had any luck using a mclaren f1 lm body with this system? I am getting binding from the side shocks.

http://shop.tinyrc.com/d_images/KYO-MZX203S-a.jpg

chad508
2011.03.30, 11:49 PM
it will not work with out alot of mods to the trishock system. i had to use the reflex carbon arm and then shorten the pn shocks to get it to fit.

blt456
2011.03.30, 11:56 PM
^ Weird.
My friend runs his mclaren lm (same body) with the PN tds. He run it on stock and mod. He also didn't drill any holes, so maybe you guys just mount the rear clips of the bodies too high up or something..

chad508
2011.03.31, 12:02 AM
the lm mclaren has more clearance in the rear

Felix2010
2011.03.31, 03:01 AM
anyone had any luck using a mclaren f1 lm body with this system? I am getting binding from the side shocks.

http://shop.tinyrc.com/d_images/KYO-MZX203S-a.jpg

Both my Mclaren LM shells (Short-Tail, old-style in pic) work perfect with my 98mm PN TDS Setup ( I use PN top shock and all PN parts: Motor pod, shocks, everything justabout). The TDS side shocks I have mounted on the bottom-side facing-down (at the motor-mount) when mounting the side shocks on the upper top plate.
No restrictions, no dremel'ing the shell rear wheel wells or windshield or body. :D

Again this is with the 98mm TDS kit version...

Davey G
2011.03.31, 09:01 AM
anyone had any luck using a mclaren f1 lm body with this system? I am getting binding from the side shocks.

http://shop.tinyrc.com/d_images/KYO-MZX203S-a.jpg

If you run everything as low as possible there shouldnt be any issues, this is as low as you can go. Everything in the down position.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w277/Dgraboski/tdswiring.jpg

monkeyZ
2011.03.31, 09:17 AM
Thanks for the suggestions and quick responses. Perhaps the gimbaled motor mount is a little taller and is causing the binding? I have my side shocks set identically to yours, but the outside screws touch the body with the slightest movement. I didnt change the body mounts as it's a brand new body.

Davey G
2011.03.31, 10:12 AM
screws pointing down not up and it still hits?

monkeyZ
2011.03.31, 12:18 PM
screws pointing down not up and it still hits?

Unfortunately, yes even with the screws pointing down :(

I will post a picture when I get home.

hrdrvr
2011.03.31, 03:06 PM
What motor mount are you using? I saw one of the guys here mount the shocks to the bottom side of the arm. It lowered everything down a bunch (thicknes of the shock mount), and Im pretty sure he was running a Mcl F1 over it without issues.

hrdrvr
2011.03.31, 03:53 PM
NVM, I just checked with him, and he said he had to trim the inside and still had some clearance issues. The shock mount was just too wide.

Davey, What kind of top plate are you using? It looks like that lowers your top plate, which means you could lower everything else down with it.

lfisminiz
2011.03.31, 04:14 PM
You need to have the damper plate, flat on top cover....no spacer under.

hrdrvr
2011.03.31, 04:28 PM
Dave, Chad just pointed out to me, that you've modified your arm mount as well. It looks like your holes are pretty far forward compared to where they come from PN, and the back of your wmount is trimmed off. This could be shy you don't have any problems. You've moved the ends of the shocks up into the window.

Davey G
2011.03.31, 04:39 PM
NVM, I just checked with him, and he said he had to trim the inside and still had some clearance issues. The shock mount was just too wide.

Davey, What kind of top plate are you using? It looks like that lowers your top plate, which means you could lower everything else down with it.

That is an old pic. I use the newest 94mm one piece top plate, I mount it flush to the top plate. No shims.

Dave, Chad just pointed out to me, that you've modified your arm mount as well. It looks like your holes are pretty far forward compared to where they come from PN, and the back of your wmount is trimmed off. This could be shy you don't have any problems. You've moved the ends of the shocks up into the window.

My shocks are in the forward most hole, with the excess holes trimmed off. L bracket in its lowest position.

I ran my Mclaren in 94mm format which was a REALLY tight fit, shouldnt be any issues running this in 98mm.

monkeyZ
2011.03.31, 08:56 PM
Looks like I mis-remember what direction the nuts and screws were pointing. I changed the middle ones last night and I didn't change the outer ones. The outer ones are binding and I think I can make it stop if I flip like you have suggested. I will post a full report after I get it going. Might need to file a little bit of the heat stakes that hold the glass in the body too, but will try the screw flipping first. Thanks again!

BT

monkeyZ
2011.04.04, 09:54 PM
ok I turned the outer screws to have the heads pointing up and filed a little bit of the heat stakes off and now there is no binding.

dr_hfuhuhurr
2011.05.11, 12:32 PM
I've noticed that the side shocks aren't as smooth as they should be and as a result the rear pod "sticks" from side to side. I need to polish the "shock" shafts, any thoughts on the best way to do that? I've polished hinge pins in 1/10th scale cars but that always involved chucking them in a dremel.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

chad508
2011.05.11, 01:38 PM
you can unscrew the shaft from the ball end, and then put in a dremel. but i found just using some 1500 grit paper on them with a few turns does the trick. most of the sticking problems i had was due to trash in the female part, and a good cleaning fixed that

Traveler
2011.05.11, 03:50 PM
Chad, did you wrap the paper around something and insert it into the female side? I've got a couple of dampers that stick, so I just bought an extra set, but would like to get to them to be bind free.

lfisminiz
2011.05.11, 04:02 PM
I have very little of that BUT........polish the shaft some and clean out the female end. Use a drill bit thats the same size of hole to "clean" it out.;)

chad508
2011.05.11, 05:53 PM
i do not sand the inside of the female end. i just clean it out with motor spray and a pipe cleaner. i just sand the metel shaft a little and that normally gets it. another thing i do is use a ball reamer to clean the ball ends. it really helps with the shocks being smooth. if one of the ball ends is a little tight it will cause the shock to bind to one side as if it was the shaft binding in the female end.

ChiMiniRc
2011.06.14, 12:15 PM
Can anyone confirm which motor mounts work with this tri-damper system?
The link (http://www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-Tri-Damper-System-98mm-Conversion-Kit_p_43095.html) states...

"MR2288 V3 98mm LCG Motor Mount and MR2289 V4 98mm LCG Motor Mount"

Do you really need the v4 motor mount plus the v3 motor mount CF plate?

I see the reconfigurable motor mount support 2994 (94mm) but I need to run 98mm.

Just looking for a little direction. If the mr2289 v4 is the way to go for a 98mm tri-damper setup, I just need to confirm if the mr2288 is also required.

yasuji
2011.06.14, 01:17 PM
Can anyone confirm which motor mounts work with this tri-damper system?
The link (http://www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-Tri-Damper-System-98mm-Conversion-Kit_p_43095.html) states...

"MR2288 V3 98mm LCG Motor Mount and MR2289 V4 98mm LCG Motor Mount"

Do you really need the v4 motor mount plus the v3 motor mount CF plate?

I see the reconfigurable motor mount support 2994 (94mm) but I need to run 98mm.

Just looking for a little direction. If the mr2289 v4 is the way to go for a 98mm tri-damper setup, I just need to confirm if the mr2288 is also required.

the 2288/2289 98mm-102mm motor mounts... the only diff between the 2 is the v4 has adjustable ride ht
u just need one or the other.... it should have stated "or"...

blt456
2011.07.07, 06:59 PM
Has anyone got the v2 plates to work with the lexus sc430 at 94mm???

I don't think they fit without drilling the body...with kyosho 20 slicks new the screw or nut on the side plate will hit the tires, so you have to raise the arm for clearance, which makes the shock ends hit the body.

I have tried literally every combination out there, with and without the "y" spacer under the damper plate, different motor arm heights, shocks under and on top of damper plate. Nothing works properly. Will PN ever sell the version 1 plates again?? When I had those, my car was awesome! I just wish I can get those plates again because they didn't interfere with the tires with everything sitting at the lowest position.

lfisminiz
2011.07.07, 07:49 PM
By chance did you try putting the side shocks in one of the inner holes instead of the hloe at the end (closest to the tire). Then cut the end off some.:)

blt456
2011.07.07, 08:03 PM
I haven't shaved the plate that attaches to the motor arm, but I thought of that when I looked at Dave G's car.

I just tried that, but then the shocks start to angle in towards the front. I thought the whole purpose of extending the end of the damper plate and the motor arm piece was to get the shocks straight :p

I honestly didn't have a problem with the shocks angled in with the version 1 kit, but the shocks angle a lot more towards the front in the v2 kit (shock ends in hole closest to front of car). I hope that doesn't affect the handling too much, because that looks like my only option :eek:

Thanks Larry! :)

color01
2011.07.07, 08:19 PM
The V2 plates are also wider I think, there's more absolute suspension travel left/right and honestly my setups never needed it. With the V1 plates I even fit the PN tri-shock under a 911 GT1, with the V2 plates I had to cut two gigantic holes in the 911 to fit the same shocks. It's a pretty drastic difference the small geometry change makes.

If it doesn't fit, I'd just go back to the V1 plates. The V2 plates allow for a cleaner installation under bodies that have more clearance (non-lowered Mosler, PN Pan Car, etc.).

blt456
2011.07.07, 08:26 PM
The V2 plates are also wider I think, there's more absolute suspension travel left/right and honestly my setups never needed it. With the V1 plates I even fit the PN tri-shock under a 911 GT1, with the V2 plates I had to cut two gigantic holes in the 911 to fit the same shocks. It's a pretty drastic difference the small geometry change makes.

If it doesn't fit, I'd just go back to the V1 plates. The V2 plates allow for a cleaner installation under bodies that have more clearance (non-lowered Mosler, PN Pan Car, etc.).

I don't need the extra left/right motion, but if the shocks angle in more towards to the front, will the car feel different? I would think so, but I'm not sure on what it would affect. If I could go back to the v1 plates, I would.. but they are all gone :p

color01
2011.07.07, 08:31 PM
Virtually unnoticeable. If you preload the springs WAAAAY too much, you'll get noticeable pod float with any tri-shock system. Otherwise I didn't actually notice anything different other than the top shock being mounted about 0.5mm lower, and the V1 plates allow you to run perfectly flat shocks Davey G-style.

lfisminiz
2011.07.07, 08:57 PM
Luke,
I agree with Brian...........dont really notice any difference with the shocks angled back either.

blt456
2011.07.07, 09:59 PM
Hey guys thanks for the help, I appreciate it! Will you guys go to the PN nationals?

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0200.jpg

lfisminiz
2011.07.07, 10:23 PM
Pic looks good.
Im giving it some serious thought. If you have some info....locations, airport, good hotel etc....PM info to me. I started to look into it.;)

mitchy2759
2011.08.24, 11:21 AM
Guys, anyone setup this threeshock system with x speed motor?
I found that the left shock rub the small capacitor that attach to the motor. Now i have to put the center nut on top not below like the pictures here. Any suggestion?

EMU
2011.08.24, 12:10 PM
If you are using the X-Speed, you must have modified the can to mount it to the compatable mounts (drill 2 holes), moving or simply removing the capacitor if you are running ASF should not be a problem...

mitchy2759
2011.08.25, 11:13 AM
If you are using the X-Speed, you must have modified the can to mount it to the compatable mounts (drill 2 holes), moving or simply removing the capacitor if you are running ASF should not be a problem...

thx emu. i made the 2 holes already, apparently the capacitor that rub the shock creating the problem, i'll try to move it or take it off then.

mitchy2759
2011.08.26, 11:35 AM
sorry to ask again guys....can anyone show me pictures with their setup position using the x speed asf motor?
also can anyone explain the difference (or benefits and disadvantage) between the damper holder in center position if it is mounted on top (in slight angle) or bottom (almost horisontal flat)?
thank you.