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kwsmith29
2010.03.28, 08:42 AM
I need some help.

I boguht a 2.4 02 board and installed it in my F1. It is a triple stack board out of a good running MR-02. It is stacked one fet on top and two on the bottom. I cut the chassis to clear the double stacked fets, and the batteries have plenty of clearence.I installed a speedy 07 motor. I have eliminated the switch and soldered the power wires direct to the battery tabs. The installation went great, the bench test went great.

At the track I put the car down and when I accelerate it sounds like the motor shuts off and on. Everyone here at HSH took a look and is baffled. I did two F1's at the same time and both cars do this. Any suggestions?

Has anyone seen this before or heard of this?

Thanks,
Wade

chad508
2010.03.28, 09:50 AM
we have had the same with 2 of our f1s. we are going to try the am antenna wired to the board as if it was still am. landon saw this trick done online but we have yet to test it. steven is in the process of doing this as we speak.

kwsmith29
2010.03.28, 12:47 PM
Already tried that trick, it didn't fix the problem....

Traveler
2010.03.28, 01:13 PM
Wade, for kicks, try a different motor. The odds of both motors in both cars doing the same thing is slim, but I've had it happen before with 2.4. Also be sure the caps are properly connected to the can and the brushes.

kwsmith29
2010.03.28, 01:55 PM
Tried different motors in each car this week....

EMU
2010.03.28, 04:52 PM
I had similar issues, installing a longer antenna helped a lot. It could be that the board is much closer to the batteries in the F1 chassis than the other Mini-Z chassis that causes them to glitch, possibly even battery orientation. I mounted my antenna off to the side, and not the way the AM F1's are mounted.

Besides that, Im not really sure what else could be causing the problem. Double check all of the solder joints, and rebind the cars again (even if you bound them after you installed the boards). Try keeping the transmitter and car a few yards/meters apart when you bind them. When you turn the car on, turn the TX on first, and wait about 10 seconds before turning on the car.

kromie101
2010.09.10, 10:08 PM
well, got my new f-1 and put an atomic stock motor in. it now glitches on and off with the motor. when im full throttle its gittery:confused:. i tried 2 different motors but they are the same type. i also put a 3inch wire on and even wrapped it around a long am antenna.

only other thing i can try is solder the wire to the antenna. try and put capacitors from - & + to the can and one across -&+. does anybody have any thing i can try?

VAzRACER
2010.09.10, 10:34 PM
well, got my new f-1 and put an atomic stock motor in. it now glitches on and off with the motor. when im full throttle its gittery:confused:. i tried 2 different motors but they are the same type. i also put a 3inch wire on and even wrapped it around a long am antenna.

only other thing i can try is solder the wire to the antenna. try and put capacitors from - & + to the can and one across -&+. does anybody have any thing i can try?

I just replied to your pm.

Racer-HH
2010.09.13, 02:19 AM
Do you use a KT-18 for driving? In Germany several racers had this kind of problems with ASF boards. Most switched their transmitter to an EX-1(x), but others cleaned the KT-18 board, resoldered the pins and put a spacer to cut off throttle at like 95% of the way, but still keep the motor at full speed, as Kyo and Kopropo say max speed is achieved at 70%.

Racer

wrcsti
2010.09.13, 08:55 AM
Do you use a KT-18 for driving? In Germany several racers had this kind of problems with ASF boards. Most switched their transmitter to an EX-1(x), but others cleaned the KT-18 board, resoldered the pins and put a spacer to cut off throttle at like 95% of the way, but still keep the motor at full speed, as Kyo and Kopropo say max speed is achieved at 70%.

Racer

Max speed at 70%? I think they are just trying to beat you.

VAzRACER
2010.09.13, 12:39 PM
The brake and throttle high point do max out at 60. Hold your trottle open with your car in your hand, back the throttle down from 100 and you will notice no change until below 60.

I use the ex1 ur.

kromie101
2010.09.18, 03:42 PM
well NO GLITCH:D. that worked awesome. i soldered right to the motor wires and ran them up to the front where there is a little pocket. the capacitor fit perfect. car ran like a champ. thanks matt and pedro:).

Gofast
2011.03.10, 10:25 PM
Kromie,

Did you solder a 104 cap between the motor tabs? My new F1 is doing the same thing as your car so I want to try out your fix. Thanks.

hrdrvr
2011.03.11, 07:29 AM
I dont think kromie's fix was permenant. He ended up selling his F1 off, cause he couldn't ever get rid of it totally. I know Matt has been trying out some different things, but I havent heard any results lately. :D

Gofast
2011.03.11, 10:03 AM
Thanks for the reply so I can stop wondering.:rolleyes:

pedrocamp
2011.03.11, 10:58 AM
I have to believe it has to do with a voltage drop on the board due to the higher weight of the F1 as well as the higher drivetrain weight. This is a problem on the larger scale cars as well and Novak and others sell "glitch buster" caps. We have cured a few cars by adding a 0.22 farad capacitor (the high power cap sold by PN and others) to the power input wires on the board. I have had success with this on my car. I have recently acquired 0.33 farad caps to try on the more stubborn cars.

hpgod
2011.03.11, 11:17 AM
I have seen this before and it only occured when the antenna was inside the body. I drilled a hole right above the solder point on the board and mine works great unless the 1inch antenna is inside.

iruninsoga
2011.03.11, 08:06 PM
ASF F1 issues are somewhat recognized by Kyosho.

In the official 2010 mini-z guide book that came out last November they recommend putting a layer of self adhesive "noise blocking" sheet on the radio chip on the board. If it's non-conductive you can cut it big enough to cover the whole front 1/4 of the board with little notches to let the antenna and pot leads stick out. If you make it out of copper, you'll have to insulate the smt devices on the board somehow.

The problems are supposedly caused by the servo and potentiometer leads running across the chip, but I don't see how that's different from the other chassis...

Anyway, something else to try

cosmicsoul
2011.03.11, 10:20 PM
ASF F1 issues are somewhat recognized by Kyosho.

In the official 2010 mini-z guide book that came out last November they recommend putting a layer of self adhesive "noise blocking" sheet on the radio chip on the board.


I wonder if you could post a picture or diagram of how this should be done? Also what exactly is "noise blocking self adhesive"?

Thanks for the info! F-1 one is such a fun class. I have gone through several boards trying to get one that doesn't glitch. Had one for 2 years before it ever glitched. There are lot a theories and remmodies but none that are 100%, pretty sure I have tried them all. Maybe this is the MAGIC TICKET!

chad508
2011.03.11, 10:26 PM
that is how the sp2 chassis came. granted it was an 02 board. i'll see if i can find that old board and take a pic. only thing is the wires do not run over anything on the 03 board

cosmicsoul
2011.03.11, 10:32 PM
The mystery continues. You would think with all the brainiacs here on the forum some one could figure this out.

James has the one of the first 2.4 F-1 chassis and has never had a problem.

VAzRACER
2011.03.11, 11:06 PM
I think he's refering to copper rf tape. 3m makes it. I've got a whole sheet of it I picked up just mess around with on the f1. Haven't tried wraping any of the board though. I can give you a price when I'm down there in a few weeks.

Still with Pedro, I think I has to do with voltage drop and no reception. Otherwise it would be happening on other chassis as well.

cosmicsoul
2011.03.11, 11:16 PM
I am sure you guys are right, how to fix the problem though. I will definately try the tape. Although my F-1 is good 97% of the time it would be better to have 100% good all the time.

Another interesting observation is that it seems that people at Highspeed regulary have problem with their AMB transponders during F-1. Which is probably a direct result of voltage drop.

The only other time we have had issues is during a 2hour race once and recently running 15 minute mains. If I remember correctly I think I heard mention of glitching by some. This actually occured with 03 chassis.

EMU
2011.03.11, 11:21 PM
Otherwise it would be happening on other chassis as well.
I dont any problems with my AWD, that is about the same weight as my F1 (200g). It may be a factor, but not the only issue. I want to try the cap... as well as the rf tape... Sometimes, my cars take turns in which ones glitch at different tracks. One track one car will glitch, and the other will be fine (relatively). A different track it may be the opposite...

Gofast
2011.03.12, 12:13 AM
Logically the capacitor will help with RF noise and smoothing out the voltage drop. I tried a 470uF cap on the battery terminals but didn't help much. I will try a .047F cap this weekend. If that doesn't work then I'll have to find a .22F cap like Pedrocamp suggested.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

VAzRACER
2011.03.12, 07:16 AM
I use the .22f cap, it fixed the problem for a long time and then the glitching came back. I tried a few more caps to make sure that one didnt go bad but the others didnt work either.

I think some of it has to do with static biuld up. When the temps dropped and the humidity fell it was worse for all of us. When the temp and humidity were up the cars did much better. To try and remedy this I took a peice of solder wick and attached it to the bottom of the car letting it drag the ground to discharge and static biuld up. It had a very slight effect but didnt fix it completly.

I might try driving the car today, if it isnt glitching I will post all the things I did to try and fix it and will try to get pic up too.

Try wraping the board in electrical tape. Sounds kind of crazy but it did help others and is something I will be trying.

@Jay- I Love your sig, I pulled this page p on my phone and just the signature from your post took up the entire screen.lol

VAzRACER
2011.03.12, 07:22 AM
I dont any problems with my AWD, that is about the same weight as my F1 (200g). It may be a factor, but not the only issue. I want to try the cap... as well as the rf tape... Sometimes, my cars take turns in which ones glitch at different tracks. One track one car will glitch, and the other will be fine (relatively). A different track it may be the opposite...

Even though the weight is the same its in different places. The F1 tires are alot heavier and the gearing is different.

I did one thing I have that kind of disproves what I just said. I used a MRCG chassis, attached the front end from an F1 to it and used all the same running gear and electronics from a F1 that was glitching. Funny thing is in the MRCG it never glitched once. I thought for a long time it was board/battery placement on the F1 chassis but the MRCG was configured the same way and was only one gram less in weight than the F1 I took the parts from.

chad508
2011.03.12, 07:32 AM
is everyone having problems run any of the carbon pieces from mantis. i only ask as i never had a problem with glitching until i started run them. granted without them f1 was a bear to drive. i have just never gone back all the way to stock to see what happens

VAzRACER
2011.03.12, 07:38 AM
is everyone having problems run any of the carbon pieces from mantis. i only ask as i never had a problem with glitching until i started run them. granted without them f1 was a bear to drive. i have just never gone back all the way to stock to see what happens

I ran all the peices for a long time with no issues, the entire underside of my car was carbon. I am going to take the barge board off and once he get the frp plates out the only thing left will be the bumper.

iruninsoga
2011.03.12, 10:42 PM
Here's the pic from the guidebook. In the pic they're using some kind of non-conductive noise blocking sheet, maybe mu-metal. Copper will work but there's a possibility to short the smt components on the board so you have to be careful.

cosmicsoul
2011.03.12, 10:52 PM
Thanks for your response, this in conjuction with the capacitors and antenna trick, could be the HOLY GRAIL! :)

lornecherry
2011.03.18, 08:54 PM
...although I'm not running F1's; the mention of carbon and 2.4 GHz in the same sentence reminded me of the problems carbon fiber winged/fuselage R/C sailplanes have with glitching. As a glitch on airplane usually = crashing of said $1K-$2K model, this problem has been looked at extensively by both radio manufacturers and hobbyists. In fact, Spektrum makes special receivers for planes that have carbon fiber.

Try removing all carbon from your cars; see if the problem goes away. Read through some of the threads on rcgroups with respect to 2.4 GHz and "carbon-friendly" techniques. (using more than one antenna [rabbit ears] to gather the signal is one technique); ...have a read through the sailplane forums ... I'm sure it will lend some insight into improving the signal; which I highly suspect is the problem, given the intermittent nature of what you describe. - Lorne

cosmicsoul
2011.03.18, 09:43 PM
Wow, it seems that maybe the glitching could be a result of carbon fiber. My car never glitched for like two years and then all of the sudden glitch city. I have gone through several boards trying to resolve this situation.

Now that I think of it the glitching could have started when I installed my carbon fiber front bumper. That is the only thing different on my original 2.4 car that used to never glitch.

I do not want to sacrafice the front bumber if it is the culprit. Good insight though Lorne. As of yet no one has made this observation.

I wish I could remember wether or not my car glitched pre carbon fiber.

EMU
2011.03.19, 12:05 AM
My cars definitely had glitching before adding the carbon bumper/wings.... But it could be a factor, but there is no carbon near the board, or antenna section besides the side plates. I am going to be testing the new Mantis G10 t-plate and will remove all of the carbon that I can to see if glitching improves... I doubt that it is the main cause for the F1 glitching. A lot of the racers have alot of carbon as well, but dont glitch nearly as bad. I think it could be the relation of the board to the batteries. The F1 is the only chassis that the batteries lay sideways under the board, where the racers have the batteries in line with the board...

VAzRACER
2011.03.19, 07:39 AM
Both my F1's also glitched prior to installing the carbon fiber peices. This is something I cosidered early on but threw it out because I knew they did glitch pefore all the carbon parts were on my cars.

Think about this though. A few posts back when I was talking about the F1/MRCG combo I put together. I had zero glicth issues with the same electronics that glitched in a regular F1 Chassis. The MRCG is made completly of carbon. Even when I was using the Mantis wing mount I was having no issues and that sat right behind and above the board.

pedrocamp
2011.03.19, 08:12 AM
It was a bit of work but I tried turning the board sideways in my F1 while I had a glitch, oriented the same was as an 02/03, still glitched. At the time I had no carbon.

pedrocamp
2011.03.19, 08:13 AM
I ran an MRCG for a while as well with no glitch.

Gofast
2011.03.19, 09:45 AM
Hey guys,

I soldered a .047F cap to the battery terminals and drilled a hole so the antenna stick up and thru the body. I ran 2 sessions with 2 packs of batteries each. The car is not glitching whereas it will glitch after a couple laps in the past.

I plan to run it for a while so I'll post again if the glitch comes back.

lfisminiz
2011.03.19, 02:40 PM
Hey guys,

I soldered a .047F cap to the battery terminals and drilled a hole so the antenna stick up and thru the body. I ran 2 sessions with 2 packs of batteries each. The car is not glitching whereas it will glitch after a couple laps in the past.

I plan to run it for a while so I'll post again if the glitch comes back.

Do you have a pic of the cap location at batteries?

Thanks

lornecherry
2011.03.19, 03:44 PM
the "drilling of a hole" to have the antenna peak through is the exact strategy used on 2.4Ghz sailplanes with carbon fiber ...there is a scientific reason for this, but suffice to say everyone now does it because it works well.

Gofast
2011.03.19, 07:33 PM
It is rather straight forward to solder the cap on. You can see from the side shot that you solder the wire on top of the existing +/- battery terminals. As you can see the cap fits great in the cavity in front fo the board. Hope it helps.

lfisminiz
2011.03.19, 08:15 PM
It is rather straight forward to solder the cap on. You can see from the side shot that you solder the wire on top of the existing +/- battery terminals. As you can see the cap fits great in the cavity in front fo the board. Hope it helps.

Thanks........that helps.:)

arch2b
2011.03.19, 08:31 PM
I've always cut holes for my 2.4 antenna to poke through. Such an easy thing to do.

iruninsoga
2011.03.23, 08:20 PM
Went to the hobby shop today and took a look at the SP2 Carbon limited chassis. Kyosho now places a square of anti-static foam on top of the radio chip at the factory.

Nothing on the box said "now with less glitching!" But I guess that the foam is to address glitching.

Don't know if it solves the problems though...

Traveler
2011.03.25, 08:14 AM
I noticed that covering on the SP2 I recently got from ocean rodeo which does not glitch. Can't remember if my first SP2 came with it or not. That board is long gone and was replaced with an 03 board.

Pedro, do you remember if my original F1 board had a piece of black material covering a large chip?

Wade, this is the board that's in your new CanAm car. Is that piece still there?

kidphc
2011.03.25, 10:08 AM
With the RC helis we run into static lock outs and carbon fiber blocking issues all the time, during the winter months. Both of which I think are contributing to the issue.

I'm going to speak of Spektrum, even though it's not used with Mini-z, it's just what I'm familiar with, Futaba is a bit different with the whiskers and I know nothing about Ko Propo receivers.

Carbon is going to be a problem with 2.4 if it is blocking the aerial path. This occurs a lot mostly with larger helis, we end up having to use several antennas to get the best signal at all times. The Spektrum receiver kit for carbon fuselage airplanes/gliders actually has long antenna leads so it can have the aerials outside of the airplane. 2.4 Spektrum receivers antennas are a bit directional, they have kinda a cone like reception from the aerial tip. If popping the aerial through a hole helps with glitches it would make sense. Your removing a major possibility of the aerial pointing in the wrong direction or possibly getting carbon shadowing.

Keep in mind Carbon is conductive. so it is possible to build up static electricity on the carbon surface. There are videos on you tube where spinning up an RC heli in the dark you could see static arching to the aerials on the receiver. If you are running a low ride height I could see static build up being a problem. Especially, on carpet/foam in the winter time. You could always try a light coat of silicon on the carbon and plastic pieces, wipe it up a bit you don't want it coating the race surface. If you glitches are getting reduced, it's probably static then. Sucks that silicon will attract all sorts of grime though.

Traveler
2011.03.25, 10:52 AM
I am going to take the barge board off and once he get the frp plates out the only thing left will be the bumper.

I am going to be testing the new Mantis G10 t-plate and will remove all of the carbon that I can to see if glitching improves... I doubt that it is the main cause for the F1 glitching.

Have either of you received and tried Mantis' new G10 plates? Did glitching improve or cease?

You could always try a light coat of silicon on the carbon and plastic pieces, wipe it up a bit you don't want it coating the race surface. If you glitches are getting reduced, it's probably static then. Sucks that silicon will attract all sorts of grime though.

Matt, are you willing to try this on your car? Believe kidphc is the new guy in your group. Maybe he could show you what he means in person.

I'm glad I have one F1 that doesn't glitch, but I sure would like to see a resolution to this problem.

VAzRACER
2011.03.25, 11:10 AM
I should have the plates today. I'll try and run one pack through the car this weekend.

I understand how carbon can affect radio signals but both my cars were doing this when they were 100% plastic. That's the only reason I'm not pointing at the cf as the problem. I am going to try using two antennas though.

I'm not plannig on trying the silicon. I use spray silicon on equipment at work. It basically dries but leaves a residue on the surface. Honestly I don't want to have to work on a car covered with it.

Mine are always worse in the winter so maybe we need to find a way to make f1 a spring/summer class. Lol.

kidphc
2011.03.25, 11:21 AM
If it's predominately happening in the winter time it sounds like static more then anything else. Completely, understand not wanting to put silicon on the car.

Do the f1's scrape the ground more then the other chassis? If the pan of the car whether it be plastic or carbon runs on a felt/carpet/foam surface, with the dry winter air I can see static building up. Especially, if the chassis is rubbing on the ground occasionally during a run.

kidphc
2011.03.25, 11:51 AM
I'll bring a voltage detector tomorrow to the track. Maybe you can rule out static hits with it.

Traveler
2011.03.25, 12:35 PM
I should have the plates today. I'll try and run one pack through the car this weekend.

I understand how carbon can affect radio signals but both my cars were doing this when they were 100% plastic. That's the only reason I'm not pointing at the cf as the problem. I am going to try using two antennas though.

I'm not plannig on trying the silicon. I use spray silicon on equipment at work. It basically dries but leaves a residue on the surface. Honestly I don't want to have to work on a car covered with it.

Mine are always worse in the winter so maybe we need to find a way to make f1 a spring/summer class. Lol.

Look forward to your impressions of the G10 plates and the impact on the glitch. Totally understand you not wanting to put silicon on your car.

The glitch is one of the reasons F1 isn't a class at the upcomming Carolina Cup race.

VAzRACER
2011.03.25, 12:47 PM
If it's predominately happening in the winter time it sounds like static more then anything else. Completely, understand not wanting to put silicon on the car.

Do the f1's scrape the ground more then the other chassis? If the pan of the car whether it be plastic or carbon runs on a felt/carpet/foam surface, with the dry winter air I can see static building up. Especially, if the chassis is rubbing on the ground occasionally during a run.

My F1'a actually sit higher than any of my 03's. I run the 03's really low. Low enough where I have to sand the bottom of the battery clips to keep them from dragging. Sometimes when the tires wear enough I do notice the 03's touching the track some but I have never had any isses from it other than understeer.:p

Look forward to your impressions of the G10 plates and the impact on the glitch. Totally understand you not wanting to put silicon on your car.

The glitch is one of the reasons F1 isn't a class at the upcomming Carolina Cup race.

I'll let you know how the plates work. I'll post something on his thread. I want to get a good day of testing before I say too much, this weekend isnt going to be the best time for testing so I might wat until next week.

Last time I raced with you guys was the last time I raced F1 because of the issue.

mugler
2011.03.26, 07:35 PM
That board is long gone and was replaced with an 03 board.


does converting to 03 board eliminate the glitch all together?
separate question: does the 2.4 F1 board have a long reverse delay like 02 or a short one like 03?

chad508
2011.03.26, 10:10 PM
the glitch does not go away with the 03 board
the f1 board is the same as the 02 board so it does have the longer reverse delay.

mugler
2011.03.27, 01:33 PM
the glitch does not go away with the 03 board. the f1 board is the same as the 02 board so it does have the longer reverse delay.

Yikes, on the first point!
On the second point I guess that would easily make 03 board still the ultimate set up for F1.

Thanks for the intel.

ruf
2011.04.01, 01:32 PM
Yikes, on the first point!
On the second point I guess that would easily make 03 board still the ultimate set up for F1.

Thanks for the intel.This is a pretty common setup. And as mentioned before, it does not solve the glitching issue.

For me it only happens in certain venues. I've tried the power cap, and I've got a few if anyone wants one.

I do believe that it has to do with the longer steering pot leads and some EMC issues. I used electrical tape all over my PCB at the PNWC in Myrtle Beach to decent effect. On the other hand, my F1 is undriveable at Kenon, so it is environmental. Electrical tape is far from the best shielding material, and I've been meaning to dive into this for a while. Hopefully, we'll have it sorted out before the KOGP.

Traveler
2011.04.01, 02:02 PM
Joe, did you see post 44 in this thread that reads:

Went to the hobby shop today and took a look at the SP2 Carbon limited chassis. Kyosho now places a square of anti-static foam on top of the radio chip at the factory.

Nothing on the box said "now with less glitching!" But I guess that the foam is to address glitching.

Don't know if it solves the problems though...

lornecherry
2011.04.01, 02:24 PM
Well, if it's static, you can do four things to reduce it quickly.

1) If its and EVA foam track (i.e. RCP) try washing it down daily with a damp Swipper (a good idea anyway).

2) Changing to certain types of foam tires can help (though not practical for some races that spec only rubber).

3) Raise the relative humidity in the room where the track is by using a small humidifier (also a good idea).

4) Spray some anti-static spray on part of the car or track

Of these, 1) and 3) are the most practical and should really help. I used to live in Saskatchewan ...Winters were so dry that a humidifier was a must ...socks had so much static on the carpet that touching anything while walking on the carpet resulted in human glitching :)

ruf
2011.04.01, 09:17 PM
Joe, did you see post 44 in this thread that reads:
Went to the hobby shop today and took a look at the SP2 Carbon limited chassis. Kyosho now places a square of anti-static foam on top of the radio chip at the factory.

Nothing on the box said "now with less glitching!" But I guess that the foam is to address glitching.

Don't know if it solves the problems though...Yes, I did. I actually have an SP2 that I swapped an MR03 board into. I did notice the anti-static foam on top of the chip, but it's not so much for ESD (static electricity), as it is for RF/EMI shielding. And it still glitched, hence the MR03 board swap.

I've seen even better stuff used on our electronics here at work. I'll try to come up with something soon. ;) If it works at Kenon, it'll work anywhere...

lfisminiz
2011.04.02, 01:02 AM
Yes, I did. I actually have an SP2 that I swapped an MR03 board into. I did notice the anti-static foam on top of the chip, but it's not so much for ESD (static electricity), as it is for RF/EMI shielding. And it still glitched, hence the MR03 board swap.

I've seen even better stuff used on our electronics here at work. I'll try to come up with something soon. ;) If it works at Kenon, it'll work anywhere...

Joe, hope you come up with something. Ran mine some the other week, it was fine. Ran it last night and it glitched pretty bad!:mad::( Makes me want to forget running them (or pitch it against the wall:rolleyes::D)

mugler
2011.04.02, 01:56 AM
couple random thoughts...has anyone tried using their transmitter's AM/FM antenna raised all the way and still gotten a glitch?

Airtronic's first generation 2.4 (they're now on their 4th version of 2.4!!) would get massive glitches in certain parts of certain tracks (10th scale track/cars) and the cure was found to be raising the AM/FM antenna, just wondering if that would have an effect here too.

Also what about using lipo tx batts instead of AAs to rule out weak signal from the transmitter @ least...anyone with glitch using lipo's?