MantisWorx F1 tower bars

[MantisMMA]

these are available in
2*camber/3*caster

price is 12.00pr

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/DSCN2131.jpg


installation:
if you want to retain the use of the stock springs.
tools needed:
cordless drill/dremel
.140-.155 drill ( allows kingpin to "lay over")
cartridge roll ( to grind off the top of the shock towers)

1. completely dis-assemble the fornt end
2. SLOWLY drill (.140-.155 drill)only the top of the shock tower, if you push too much you can/will break it completely off.
3. using the cartridge roll grind off the top of the shock tower approximately 1.5mm. if you go too far dont worry about it, the tension in the arms will keep the kingpin at the top. the only reason the tower is there is for the spring stop.
4. re-assemble in reverse order but the "C" clip goes on top of the new tower bar and the bar screws down in the factory location!

ADVANCED users:
i have discovered that if you completely remove the factory tower bars and only use the MantisWorx bars you can use the PN MR03 lowdown springs and have a better selection of springs. only thing required is a thin flat washer on top of the knuckle between the spring and thats it.

[MantisMMA]

those who pre-ordered will be shipped tomorrow. please use this thread for discusion on setups and feedback. if i need to change something just let me know or if a different combo is desired as long as you prepay a few sets i can make whatever you want!

[MantisMMA]

new design!

http://shop.mantisworx.com/TOWER-BAR-MWX-TB001-V1.htm

[tudor_47]

ADVANCED users:
i have discovered that if you completely remove the factory tower bars and only use the MantisWorx bars you can use the PN MR03 lowdown springs and have a better selection of springs. only thing required is a thin flat washer on top of the knuckle between the spring and thats it.

Marcus,
could you be more specific on this modification? I assume that it is only the top portion of the factory tower bar that you remove?
Can normal length PN-springs be used without the washer?

Is there a drawing of how it is done, I think I got it but, I wanna be sure before cutting into the main chassie part of my F1......
And if you do this is a suspension limiter a good thing?? or is stopping against the Mantisworx top arms enough?

Thanks!

[MantisMMA]

it depends on what knuckles you have you can use either the full length 03 springs or 02 springs. good thing is that you can shim to adjust droop. and you only need to remove the top portion of the tower but i have also discovered that some knuckles will actually rub against the side of the tower and slightly bind up so i completely ground mine all the way off. i will put some pix up on the site tomorrow.

[tudor_47]

Thanks!

Will be keeping my eyes on your site...

[tudor_47]

i will put some pix up on the site tomorrow.

Any luck in the pictures?

Thanks!
/Johnny

[MantisMMA]

Not yet I am super swamped! But if you look at the readers rides or any pix of my R30 you can see how it is done in the meantime. I am setting aside Sunday to get it done.

[tudor_47]

Ok,
Shall I grind the "shoulder" under the rearmost screw down so that it is level with the chassis?

edit:
another thing... the drillbits can you translate them to metric sizes?
i get 3,5mm for .140 and i am getting worried is that not to big??
Edit2

I have now tested using 3mm drill and it looks OK with 2,5-4mm drillbit..

[MantisMMA]

dont grind anyting off of the main chassis, the only thing you have to grind is the top of the stock towers. 3.5mm for the drill.

[MantisMMA]

be very carefull drilling the hole it will grab if your not carefull but if it does happen just grind the whole thing off and use MR03 springs.

[MantisMMA]

gimme about ten minutes and i wil post a sketch, your scaring me!

[tudor_47]

Thanks!

the shoulder is the one that can be seen in this picture...

[MantisMMA]

this is all you have to grind


29995

[MantisMMA]

Thanks!

the shoulder is the one that ccan be seen in this picture...

you dont touch anything on the black part, only on the clear

[tudor_47]

OK


nothing done to black part of chassie...


the clear chassie top part is down to approx...2mm thickness now...

this givves that the new upper carbon arm is floating in the air above the clear arm.....

I will continue to assembly som other night... it is almost 1 in the mornig now.. :)


THANKS!
THANKS!

[MantisMMA]

thats ok, all the tower bar does is locate the kingpin and once you clip the C clip on it will be snug enough.

[tudor_47]

ADVANCED users:
i have discovered that if you completely remove the factory tower bars and only use the MantisWorx bars you can use the PN MR03 lowdown springs and have a better selection of springs. only thing required is a thin flat washer on top of the knuckle between the spring and thats it.

I did this and I used the shortest aluminium downstop for an mr02 that I had in the box and put that closest to the knuckle and it did the trick and it added downstop to the front suspension. I took a picture of the installed knuckle with the red alu downstop and a PN short Mr02 spring.

[MantisMMA]

nice! if you notice, you also get some Tower bar flex too which helps out.