MantisWorx F1 t plate system

[MantisMMA]

here is my latest attempt but i need some feedback on the idea. im confident that this plate with the new kyosho DDS is going to be superior BUT as you can tell by the pic changing the batteries is a PITA, pesonally it doesnt bother me especially if it makes the car perform better. an idea i had was to make a stand that holds the car upside down. let me know what you think.

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/DSCN2155.jpg

[arch2b]

thats a bit more than i'm willing to do for performance gains. that doesn't even look remotely practical regarding battery changes which will be every qualifier and main. i know it's only 4 screws but thats just my opinion.

others i'm sure will not mind at all.

[MantisMMA]

i definately understand but if it ends up making the car easier to drive and faster its worth it! but your right it is a pain!! i will do some preliminary testing within the next few days. im just taking a shot!!

[MantisMMA]

then again its no worse than having to tape and solder every battery pack on bigger cars!! food for thought!

[JuniorWKR]

Marcus... try this... should work and it will be a hell of alot lighter and will give you options for soft med hard as well... and you will still be able to use stock battery tray cover...

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29589&stc=1&d=1270668931

[MantisMMA]

already did and it was entirely too flimsy! i havent given up on it yet just ned to try some stiffer material

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/903c5e52.jpg


there is not as much room as you would think!!

[JuniorWKR]

my design should give you a stronger longer arm to act more like a 2wd tplate.. and shouldnt be flimsy as you can make it whatever width you want... i guess the wider you were to go the softer the carbonfiber could be...

[MantisMMA]

your design wont work, look at the distance between the battery holder and the motor on the pic. i used all of the available space unless you see something that i dont! the motor is at the saem level as the carbon so it cannot go back that far.

[arch2b]

then again its no worse than having to tape and solder every battery pack on bigger cars!! food for thought!
understood, and i'm sure plenty of people are willing to do that, ie many already remove the on/off switch requiring you to take out a battery just to turn the car off. many don't mind hacking their body to bits to get it to run perfectly either.

as for me, it's a bit too much. i don't do battery packs or larger scales but i'm familiar with the routine. i voided battery packs with my mrcg as well just so i wouldn't have to deal with all that. i don't think the average mini-z owner is willing to do that, just as they are not willing to move to lipo/life as aaa is just too convenient.

[MantisMMA]

WOW!! this setup is the way to go, the rear is sooooo planted now. the combo of the new front and "T" rear makes the car so much smoother and transitions are incredible. this is definately going to be the setup even though battery changes are more difficult.next week im going to play with different levels af stiff and they will go on sale in about a week. CT drove the car today and maybe he can chime in on how it felt to him.

[tudor_47]

Hi!

any progress on the rear end ?

I am interested to find out as the PNWC is in September and a good solution for the rear is needed should one even consider driving the F1.

[MantisMMA]

The T plate system is finalized and will be ready to ship in a few days! A couple of notes about it: It will only work with the PN mount as you have to grind off the two webs on the bottom to make it flat and will come with two carbon spacers. Pricing will be 22.00. there will be pix and pre-order on the website later this evening.

[MantisMMA]

Final version!

http://www.mantisworx.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/DSC_0052.jpg

[chad508]

just wanted to give everyone some info. i installed mine on an atomic mount with no problems. installs just like it would on a pn mount. just in case anyone was not looking at getting one for that reason

[MantisMMA]

pix please! i didnt think it would work

[machgo5go]

Question on the proper spacers that came with the T-Plate.
OEM Kyosho plastic on have one end shave down in less thickness in order to be flush under the F1's battery tray.
The Carbon 2 pieces is all equal thickness so when I install it, T-plate never be flush along the Batteries Tray's bottom.
Am I missing something in the idea of these 2 spacers?

[MantisMMA]

Not sure if I understand your question but you no longer use the battery tray, the t plate takes it place you can either use the kyosho spacers or the mantisworx spacers but not both. The MW spacers are desugned to be used with the MW barge board. You can trim off the OEM barge board if you use the MW spacers, they are thinner than the kyosho spacers therefore eliminating the spacer that is normally used on the motor mount.

[machgo5go]

Not sure if I understand your question but you no longer use the battery tray, the t plate takes it place you can either use the kyosho spacers or the mantisworx spacers but not both. The MW spacers are desugned to be used with the MW barge board. You can trim off the OEM barge board if you use the MW spacers, they are thinner than the kyosho spacers therefore eliminating the spacer that is normally used on the motor mount.
Thank you, you hit the magic work" Trim off"! The OEM front side wing's barge board tabs were there which is why I could not understand how your carbon spacers can be fit it flush under the T-plates and now I know. Now I can feel PN rear pods springs is raised higher to be more taught onto the chassis. Can't wait to see how it handle on track esp. now protected along with your V1 Front wing!
IMO, I think it maybe good idea to include some kind of simple installation instructions in your products since you do make great product from a one man band operation!

[MantisMMA]

Not sure what your setup is but you don't need the side springs. Most of us are simply using the kyosho DDS and the t plate. I think if you use the side springs it will be too stiff and may chatter. I have even used just a shock and t plate and it worked good. It is my intention to do some write ups on I stallation but I just get overwhelmed with stuff to design /make on a daily basis! I am gonna make my team drivers do write ups for me!

[machgo5go]

Not sure what your setup is but you don't need the side springs. Most of us are simply using the kyosho DDS and the t plate. I think if you use the side springs it will be too stiff and may chatter. I have even used just a shock and t plate and it worked good. It is my intention to do some write ups on Installation but I just get overwhelmed with stuff to design /make on a daily basis! I am gonna make my team drivers do write ups for me! My set up is still very primitive since I started with a raw SP1 edition chassis kit so I am still awaiting for the Kyosho DDS to arrive soon which now installed your T plate along with PN pod & a Speedy AD motor along with a Kyosho diff. I am still in question what is the best motor to run in F1 Mod in pending to try out a 43 T if I can get this chassis tuned.

[tudor_47]

I have received the T-plate and I am mounting it now... looks good.

[fascinate22]

thanks for the ;post

[kromie101]

well,just ran my new f-1 and it felt pretty good to me. landon said it would be a whole lot better with a mantis t-plate.i bought one and i'm gonna try it in a few days. i might have got bit by the f-1 bug:D.

[donnah246]

thanks for post

[MantisMMA]

Just in time for the worlds!!! i am releasing super soft T plates monday, they are on the machine right now and will be complete today. they are .5mm thick and will increase rear traction even more!

[lfisminiz]

Marcus, save 1 for me.;)

[MantisMMA]

the soft plates are ready, just order the t plate as per norm but specify which one you want.

[MantisMMA]

G10 plates in the works, should be ready in a few weeks!

[MantisMMA]

a little off topic but im hosting a national 10th scale F1 race next month

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/F1Converted.jpg

[pedrocamp]

Wish I could join the fun! You have some pretty cool 10th scale F1 stuff out!

[MantisMMA]

My Tamiya F104
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/2010-10-25203520.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/2010-11-07153331.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/2010-11-07153129.jpg

[machgo5go]

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh123/machgo5go/F104Pro1Large.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh123/machgo5go/F104Pro2Large.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh123/machgo5go/F104Pro3Large.jpg
My buddy in Japan's own creation. Love to get one but can't find a place in Northeast close enough to run seriously so lucky you!:(

[MantisMMA]

My tri-shock chassis kit:
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/2010-12-03221900.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/2010-11-14200911.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/2010-11-14200939.jpg

[rharris]

I read below that folks don't run the side springs with the t-plate setup.

Do you run the Disk Damper? Or is the plate stiff enough that you don't need it?

If no DD, then do you run a spring?

Also, when PN came out with new tires for the F1 a few years ago, traction picked way up. What are you guys using for tires?

[VAzRACER]

I read below that folks don't run the side springs with the t-plate setup.

Do you run the Disk Damper? Or is the plate stiff enough that you don't need it?

If no DD, then do you run a spring?

Also, when PN came out with new tires for the F1 a few years ago, traction picked way up. What are you guys using for tires?

Some use the springs and some dont, its all preference. I dont like using them, it makes the car have alot of steering mid-exit inthe corner.

Again with the dds, some use it some dont. You need something to dampen the rear end though, otherwise it will just bounce around. I ran side plates and a rear shock for a long time with no side springs and it worked just fine.

I have been using K30 front and K20 rear tires. The PN fronts seem to be ok but the rears would only be good for one run for me. I need to mess around with them again, maybe it was just a bad batch or something.

[cosmicsoul]

I am using the T-plate system with the Kyosho dampner and shock. It is by far the most consistant system I have used or tried.

I would highly recommend using it, you will not be disappointed. The Mantis side plates also work well if you don't like the idea removing the T plate each time.

The wing and front diffuser work great as well. If anything get the front diffuser at the very least.

[chad508]

for sure get the front bumper. it is a must. i am interested in trying the g10 tplate. i wanted to as, can you do the barge board out of the same material you made the plastic wings out of?

[MantisMMA]

for sure get the front bumper. it is a must. i am interested in trying the g10 tplate. i wanted to as, can you do the barge board out of the same material you made the plastic wings out of?

cant make it out of that material it is a pain in the butt to cut which is why i stopped making the wings out of it! why would you want that anyway??

[MantisMMA]

matlerial came in saturdy so the team guys will have some prototypes sometime this week!

[Felix2010]

@MANTIS - The Tamiya F1 is so sweet.... You ever think about producing a true rear-link suspension for the Mini-Z F1 similar to the F104??? Or are your T-plates for the Mini-Z F1 just as good IYO??

[EMU]

Felix,

One major issue is designing the system to work with very little clearance between the motormount and the chassis. Also, the center ball pivot would have nothing to attach to on the chassis. If you use a battery cover, similar to how the t-plate is mounted, but mount the pivot ball to that, it may work, but how much better than a t-plate will it be? And will it produce more grip than the t-plate setup?

I have been toying with this idea for a long time... and every time I get a good idea, I have a bunch of other ideas that need to be worked out to make it work. In general, it is complicated due to the battery tray opening on the bottom (ideally I would like to use the standard battery cover). There is also nearly no room to work with under the body. Marcus and I have been bouncing around this idea for at least a year, as well as a few others...

[Felix2010]

^ THat's cool, I figured this idea about a linkage rear-end has been tried or proto'ed with no success... I actually think the Mantis T-plate is a great idea, and I honestly don't see to many negatives with it either, so I think that I might have to try the Mantis T-plate system (Super-soft sounds great). Thanks for your input as always EMU:)

[MantisMMA]

there is just no space to do anything and still keep the body looking somewhat like an F1.I HATE having crap sticking out of the body. once LIFE and BL kicks into the mini-z world i can make a complete chassis that will put the batteries in a better spot and even go partially independent (like the AWD). one thing that we do in 10/12th scale pan cars (basically mini-z) is go with a 1s LIPO setup which cuts the voltage in half but you compensate that by running a hotter motor and gearing the crap out of it and they are still fast as crap , you really dont notice it because of the weight. i guess this would work with mini-z if you think about it, go with 2 high MAH batteries and a super hot wound motor (like a 20t or 15t). the 2 cells could be rotated and sit on the outer most part of the stock chassis and that would leave a bunch of room in the center. only problem with this is it would not be legal in anything other than local racing (if even that).

[MantisMMA]

HMMMMMMMM i just thought about it if you go with lower voltage and a hotter motor you could actually almost go direct drive using an AWD dif!! you dont need the extra gear reduction. i may have to actually work on this. i dont think it would be lightspeed faster than what we have now but i think it will handle better and more consistent.

[lfisminiz]

Marcus, all sounds good. Be looking forward to more T-bar options.;)

[MantisMMA]

G10 protos are cut! here is a pic of the prototypes that are going out to team drivers tomorrow:
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/muscletexx/2011-03-17141835.jpg

there will be soft,medium and hard

once i get feedback from them and make necessary adjustments they will go out for pre-order hopefully by the end of next week. so i will start pre-orders also at the end of next week. pricing is still up in the air but i think that the pack of three will be 40 and individual plates will be 15.00. it depends on how fancy i end up making them!

[EMU]

Looking good Marcus. Cant wait to try with a Tri-Shock :)

[lfisminiz]

Looks good. It will be good to have more options with this design.