View Full Version : Need help in a race ready MR02

2010.04.22, 02:11 PM
i have a stock asf 2.4ghz MR02.I like to build it to a ready race car.Wat is the best set up.I mean from tie rod,steering block,suspension,motor mount,dps mount and diff set?and wat offset for the rims.mostly my area carry atomic an pn stuff.just let u guys noe i can only mod with this 2 brand:)btw it is for rcp track only.

2010.04.22, 04:35 PM
Check reflexracing.net for their setup sheets. World champ stuff, but as always, the setup is only as good as the driver.

2010.04.22, 06:09 PM
You are asking a very broad question...

In general, both ATM and PN make very high quality parts, so you cant go wrong either direction.

I like the new 96mm ATM motormount a lot. So I definitely recommend that, with a 98mm damper setup with 2.8dps. JGTC 350z 2007 body, Medium t-plate, ball diff and 64p gears. Kyosho 20d radial rear tires, Kyosho 30d radial front tires. 1.5d knuckles, Atomic Orange spring, SS kingpins... Atomic Stock BB motor. This is my current 2wd MR02 setup, and it has a lot of rotation, and is good in and out of the corners.

There are so many different possibilities, especially with the specific grip and driving style that you have. What works for one person, may not for another... The setup that I listed is easy to drive, and quick. Its may not be the fastest setup for your conditions and driving style, but it is very good for me at my track.

Just remember, a lot of the time, its not really what parts you have on the car, but how they are installed. Attention to detail is what makes the biggest difference. Making sure that all the parts fit well, with no slop but move freely where they are supposed to.

2010.04.22, 10:53 PM
tks for the advise.i will try and build accaording to ur spec btw which is better in stablity and handling?94mm or 98mm?

2010.04.22, 11:23 PM
94mm has better corner exit. 98mm has better corner entrance. As the wheelbase lengthens, more of a percentage of mass is placed on the front wheels since the batteries remain in a fixed position relative to the front wheels.

96mm is a very good compromise that Reflex Racing developed using an alternate length t-plate. Atomic has produced a motormount that uses the standard MM t-plate length to run the 96mm wheelbase. 94 and 98mm bodies can both be used on the chassis with slight modification to the rear wheel wells of the body.

For a long time I would run 94mm setups for smaller tracks, to be able to get a good exit out of the tighter corners. I would use 98mm setups for larger tracks that have more sweeping corners and can benefit from a longer wheelbase. Since the turns radius of the 98mm car is longer, as are most of the bodies, which makes them less nimble in tight sections, but more unsettle less.

In general, the larger the body, the slower the response will be of throttle/steering. When choosing a body, the location of mass, and overhangs over the wheelbase make a huge difference in the handling characteristic. I typically design one setup, and then try a few bodies on it to see which has the style of driving that I like for the track that I am racing.

For slower motors I really like the older/small McLaren since it is very light and can go through the corners very fast. With more power, it can get out of line a little. I never really liked the body at 98mm, since it didnt couldnt get the power down as well as I liked since there is barely any mass over the rear wheels. At 96mm it felt much better balanced, and rotated much better.

Fast motors, I like a little more mass. It makes the car easier to drive, and gets a little more grip through the corners, at the expense of agility. The 350Z 2007 is a body that has won world championship events in both stock and modified 2wd classes at 96mm. It is very versatile, and works on many tracks.

There are many bodies that work well. I prefer to choose one that I like the look of, and how it drives. I like to choose bodies that have nice curves on the front end (incase you rub a rail), protect the wheels and handles well into and out of the corner.

2010.04.23, 01:32 AM
another good post and read... :D

dna79... welcome to the forums... where are you from? is there a track/club nearby? you can always ask what the norm is when it comes to hop ups at the track... but then again it will all depend on your driving style...

first priority will be the tires... from there bearings, h plate and other suspension settings... set it up one by one and check if the parts you added makes a difference in terms of a faster lap time or if it generally "feels" better for you to drive...

good luck and hope this helps... :D

2010.04.23, 02:02 AM
hi herman im from singapore.the place normally i played will be at atomic collective and quantum.rite now my car is stock.i have upgrade the bearing to atomic sheilded, front spring to a red ones.im using kyosho 6 tie rod and a steering block of 1.5.im using white atomic rims with front +2 and rear +3 with 30 front and rear 10.the back pod still stock and rear suspension stock.im using atomic ball bearing motor with pinion gear 8 and stock rear diff.i just control at deep corner.is it bcos of my rear part still stock?

2010.04.23, 03:16 AM
Which body are you currently using? The 6 tie rod will make the car overwork the front tires. You will gain straight line stability, but the tires will fight eachother when rotating. I usually use the stock tie rod, it gives the best straight speed, since the tires are not scrubbing when traveling in a straight line, and you get good rotation through the corner.

I definitely recommend getting a disc damper, and glueing the tires to the wheels. That should get as much chatter/hop out of the car in the corner.

You can also try the Atomic 40 slick. They do not offer as much steering as the Kyosho 30d radial, but the steering does not grab as much.

Red (soft) front springs should make the car react very fast as you start to steer, making small adjustments difficult. The car will also lose steering in the middle and exit of the corner. A harder spring will give the car a more controllable entrance to the corner, but more steering in the middle and exit. I like the Atomic Orange, or PN purple/white. The Orange spring feels like it is between the purple and white. I wish that I had spring rate numbers to know for sure.

2010.04.23, 04:19 AM
emu said it all... :D
oh quantumrc posts here once in a while...


you might want to ask what settings the guys use over there... do post pics when you visit their track...

2010.04.23, 07:32 AM
right now a real good set up for a 98mm mr02 is this
Reflex WTFv2 for the front.
2 deg knuckles wtih Pn White or yellow low down spring with .3 preload and .4droop.
pn 98-102 lcg mount
reflex side dampner with kyosho yellow shock red spring
or the pn tds
run the gtr gt500
0 offset front
2deg rear or 3 if you like.
this is the set up i ran for a year and still is the fastest car i have. my 03 is close but cant compare to the corner speed and stability this has.My 03 is in 94mm and is near my fastes lap time on my current track layout.

2010.04.23, 09:27 PM
woah i should try ur setting.tks bro i will update anything if not in favour again.atleast i get a decent helping hand here in mini z forum then rctech.tks guy for giving me ideas

2010.05.12, 04:18 PM
If you have the money & time, its worth it since front end handling becomes night & day!

2010.05.12, 04:27 PM
I still dont like the feel of the A-Arm front. Its not for everyone. I like a light front end on my cars, the A-Arm are too heavy and I feel throws off the balance of the car (especially after driving the MR03 for a while). Even the WTF is a little heavy. I lately have found that I prefer the stock towers on an MR02 primarily because it is light. If the other tower bars were as light as the stock parts, I think it would be better.

2010.05.12, 06:49 PM
Here's what I had during my MR02 days...MR02 (http://fastpaceracing.com/content/mr02-basic-set)

I'm with Eugene on the A-Arm. It is not for everyone.