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EMU
2010.06.07, 11:25 PM
I would like some clarification of what is permitted for the modified class motors. This is directed towards PN, but if there are motor wizzes that can answer any of the compatability questions, please do.

There are no readily available 33t or 35t modified motors on Kenon. How soon will they be restocked, or are they discontinued? Kenon currently has only two motors available, AWDIII and 70t. Will there be any more Speedy 07BB or other motors available?

Will the modified armatures fit in a Speedy 07bb can? Are there any newer style cans that will be available anytime soon?

Do the 37t and 38t armatures fit the 33/35t cans without a problem? I would like to use the newer type can, because I feel that the brushes mate the comm better, without moving. Can I use a newer endbell on the old Speedy can?

Can the armature be rewound? Can a custom motor be built using PN can/armature/comm/brush? In the rules it states that armature must be used, but nothing about using the original winding, which is why I want the clarification.

Thank you for your time.

yasuji
2010.06.09, 01:00 AM
as the rule states:
Modified Class can be use any model of the PN Racing motor, legal modify the brushes, magnet, cut the cam head, but you MUST be use PN Racing motor can, motor cover and armature.

re winding of the armature is NOT allowed
you CAN use any magnets
you CAN use any brushes
you CAN Cut the com

on a side note 33t and 35t armatures are available as well as the neo magnet cans;)

blt456
2010.06.09, 08:59 AM
EMU here is a link that leads to all of the PN motor parts:

http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/shop2/catalog/index.php?cPath=62_71

Traveler
2010.06.09, 11:04 AM
Will there be any more Speedy 07BB or other motors available?

Did you see new motors added to Kenon site yesterday? New 50T and 80T. My guess is the "Speedy" series will be discontinued. If you are coming to the PN race in Myrtle Beach, I should be able to provide you with what you need.

mk2kompressor
2010.06.09, 11:05 AM
i built a motor for one of the german guys last year in spain, speedy AWD III arm in a bb non neo can and +5deg timing
that motor with a 9t pinion (or the closest 64p setup) flew!!

EMU
2010.06.09, 11:18 AM
The issue that I have, is that the gearing for the F1 is much different than the gearing for the other 2wd cars. The wheels are bigger, causing more rollout. I have been running a 7/46 combo on a 36000rpm motor and it is geared well. If I go with the 35t armature in a Neo can, thats roughly 45000rpm, it will be geared too high. 64p will be out of the question, since it there are no low ratios. Perhaps, if a larger spur were availabe, it may help. But at the same time, there is a limit with the motormounts as well.

From what I know 37 and 38t armatures are not compatable with the newer cans. So, I have to figure out a few things, and do some trial and error. Will the 37 and 38t armatures work in the AnimaII can?

Marwan, I cant make the trip this time :(

Matt, thats along the lines of what I was thinking... Essentially make as similar of a motor to the Atomic Stock-BB as I can :rolleyes:

mk2kompressor
2010.06.09, 01:41 PM
currently running 11/53 on my f1 with either pn70t or similar spec to the above.
i did see that pn now have 60t and 50t versions of the bushing motor,one of these with a bb can should give similar response to an x-speed.
just about to order some in for testing on the dyno;)

EMU
2010.06.09, 02:14 PM
I thought it was 80t and 50t... I was thinking about trying the 50t.

lfisminiz
2010.06.09, 03:01 PM
It is 50T.;)

mk2kompressor
2010.06.09, 03:08 PM
oops 80t and 50t:o

QuantumRC
2010.06.09, 09:49 PM
Anybody got specs of the 80 and 50t motors?

Botch
2010.06.30, 07:19 PM
Anybody got specs of the 80 and 50t motors?

From a German website with all the new PN series motors:

http://www.srcc-shop.de/miniz-motoren-tuning-c-87_93.html


80T - 18000 RPM
70T - 22000 RPM (new version)
50T - 32000 RPM
50T BB - ?
43T BB - 38000 RPM - FET upgrade required
39T BB - 39000 RPM - " " "
33T BB - 42000 RPM - " " "
32T BB - 43000 RPM - " " "

Check out the site for the part numbers. Some are in stock & others are coming in the next few weeks.

Botch.

PNracing
2010.06.30, 08:20 PM
Sorry guys, all the deatils Spec Sheet will be arrive Friday, then I will post all infomation, all Germany post RPM is base sample testing before.

PNracing
2010.06.30, 08:26 PM
And the NEW Modified Class motors rule will be open for allowed hand wound, Must be use PN Motor Stuff, Motor Case, Brush, Armautre, Comm Head, except wire.

EMU
2010.06.30, 09:11 PM
Thanks for the info Philip. I tried a couple of the new modified motors and am impressed!!!

PNracing
2010.06.30, 11:16 PM
Thanks for the info Philip. I tried a couple of the new modified motors and am impressed!!!

Which motors have you tested?
I like 32T 33T and 43T

EMU
2010.07.01, 06:39 AM
I tried the 43t in my F1, broke in the 39t and will do some testing this week. I ran a 5 minute F1 qualifier, and practiced for about 15 minutes on the same batteries, so runtime was very good :) I still have to fine tune the gearing.

Botch
2010.07.01, 11:41 AM
Cheers Philip for the clarification!!!

looking forward to seeing what the new 50T versions are like when the specs are out. Just getting into Z's and having a great time with them. Really like the quality of all the PN stuff I have already.

Botch.

machgo5go
2010.07.01, 12:30 PM
Cheers Philip for the clarification!!!

looking forward to seeing what the new 50T versions are like when the specs are out. Just getting into Z's and having a great time with them. Really like the quality of all the PN stuff I have already.

Botch.
I am going to replace the OEM Kyosho X Speed V in my F-1 which has decent speed and drivability with the 50T since it is good enough for me as an F1 chassis beginner.
PN 70T in Stock 03 has been bullet proof from all the PN point series races we had,
so I have much faith all PN products.
Still trying to learn to ease on much torque from the 35T in my Mod class 02.

MantisMMA
2010.07.01, 02:51 PM
I am going to replace the OEM Kyosho X Speed V in my F-1 which has decent speed and drivability with the 50T since it is good enough for me as an F1 chassis beginner.
PN 70T in Stock 03 has been bullet proof from all the PN point series races we had,
so I have much faith all PN products.
Still trying to learn to ease on much torque from the 35T in my Mod class 02.

go back to 48 pitch and use stainless diff balls, that will tone down the TQ and make it much more driveable, its what i am using right now.

Felix2010
2010.07.04, 12:22 PM
From a German website with all the new PN series motors:

http://www.srcc-shop.de/miniz-motoren-tuning-c-87_93.html


80T - 18000 RPM
70T - 22000 RPM (new version)
50T - 32000 RPM
50T BB - ?
43T BB - 38000 RPM - FET upgrade required
39T BB - 39000 RPM - " " "
33T BB - 42000 RPM - " " "
32T BB - 43000 RPM - " " "

Check out the site for the part numbers. Some are in stock & others are coming in the next few weeks.

Botch.

I hope to hear about the specs for the new PN motors tis week Philip. The above specs from the German website seem to be @4.8 volts, which is fine by me. But when comparing the specs to your previous PNWC Official 33t I would like to know exactly what the RPM + AMP draw are at the same voltage please if possible. THANK YOU!! The new PN motors look great! Love 32t!!!!

Samael76
2010.07.05, 05:28 PM
Philip, which motors do you recommend for the awd? 43T?

EMU
2010.07.05, 08:51 PM
I would think the 43 or the 39t would be the better options. The AWD vI was a 43t, AWD vII and vIII are 39t all with Neo magnets if I am correct. The new motors feel like they have more power than the older versions with the same winds. The newer endbell allows better cooling, and better brush tension. Also the magnets feel stronger.

The 50t wouldnt have the torque that you need in AWD with the black ferrite magnets, and would need to be geared too high with Neo magnets. The 35t should be good when geared pretty low, but I think it will lack the torque out of the corner that the AWD can handle, unlike the 2wd.

While not PN motors, I prefer the Atomic Stock-BB to the T2/Z2. The motor is more efficient, and that really comes to play when running 10 minute mains. I compare the Stock-BB to what a 45t would feel like, and the T2/Z2 to the 35t/33t offerings from PN.

The 43/39t would also have less drag brake effect than the 33/35t, due to less mass on the armature wires, whigh helps heep speed up when using AWD, and coasting.

It really depends how you drive, if you are very smooth with throttle, you may want a motor with more torque, if you are aggressive on throttle, you may want a motor with less torque and more RPM.

Samael76
2010.07.06, 05:19 AM
Thanks for the reply, Emu :) The PCB in my awd still has standard double layer fets, so that is also a littele concern, how much power it can handle.

EMU
2010.07.06, 06:31 AM
I have used a T2 in my AWD without a problem. I didnt have good runtime, but no problems with the fets. I dont know how it would hold up for extended use, but I used it for a race weekend.

Arahawak
2010.07.06, 11:54 AM
Hi,

I am looking to get either 32T / 33T and 43T for modified class on a FET-ed MR03. Will be running mid-size to large size track (7 secs to 10 sec lapper kinda)

What kinda of gearing would you guys recommend?? 48 pitch or 64 pitch?

I am using KO UR1 tx and any recommended settings on the Tx? I tried to run my friends old 35T motor, it was balastic and i have trouble taming the car.

Any help are appreciated.

MantisMMA
2010.07.06, 12:02 PM
if you were having problems taming the car with an old 35t there is no point in trying to run the new 32 or 33!! but to answer your question a 9/53 is a good starting point for the 32/33 and 11/53 for the 43t, your gonna have better luck and more consistency with the 43, more than likely your lap times will also be faster. as far as radio settings go, i run everything at zero, typically if you cant control the motor at zero then you need to go to a slower motor. remember there is only so much power you can put to the track, most of the guys who run the ultra hot motors can drive VERY well and their cars are also set up very well!

Arahawak
2010.07.06, 12:08 PM
if you were having problems taming the car with an old 35t there is no point in trying to run the new 32 or 33!! but to answer your question a 9/53 is a good starting point for the 32/33 and 11/53 for the 43t, your gonna have better luck and more consistency with the 43, more than likely your lap times will also be faster. as far as radio settings go, i run everything at zero, typically if you cant control the motor at zero then you need to go to a slower motor. remember there is only so much power you can put to the track, most of the guys who run the ultra hot motors can drive VERY well and their cars are also set up very well!

Wouldnt smaller pinions gain higher torque? i assume this is on a 64 pitch?

would the Atomic Stock be similar to the 43T? i have good feel with Atomic Stock.

SAGISI
2010.07.06, 02:26 PM
Wouldnt smaller pinions gain higher torque? i assume this is on a 64 pitch?

would the Atomic Stock be similar to the 43T? i have good feel with Atomic Stock.

Yes, The smaller pinion will give you more torque but will also give you a more linear throttle feel. Currently on my mod car im running a 11/53 with the new pn 33t and been happy with the acceleration/straight away speed (8.5 sec track times)

Arahawak
2010.08.02, 10:25 AM
Yes, The smaller pinion will give you more torque but will also give you a more linear throttle feel. Currently on my mod car im running a 11/53 with the new pn 33t and been happy with the acceleration/straight away speed (8.5 sec track times)

I finally got to try the new 33T, geared on 10/52. ( was lazy to change to a 53)
Practise session before the race, the motor was running, power band is good without me having to tune down the settings on my Tx. It was good.

However, during the race, the motor kinda heat up pretty fast. It seem like there is alot of drag. I checked the car and nothing was binding. I changed to Atomic Stock and no issues.

I checked the motor after the race, took it apart, clean it and put it back together. Ran it on a motor master and found that it was drawing 3.6amps. Looking at spec sheet, i believe it should be half of it.

By the way, there were some green debris in the motor, not sure what it was.

Any ideas guys?